Jaguar E-type Series 1: Buying guide

Beauty comes at a cost; we take a closer look at one of the nation’s favourites...

Not all examples will reach the claimed top speed of 150mph, but most should be around the 265bhp mark, provided they have been well maintained or been the beneficiary of a full rebuild. All that power really does feel quick. A decent E-type is a joy on the open road, the long bonnet encouraging you to point and floor it. A 0-60 time of only 6.9 seconds is fast even by today’s standards, let alone those of the 1960s. Despite the pace, the Moss gearbox in early cars can take a bit of getting used to. 

Most standard cars will feel their age in the corners, softer suspension leading to body roll and loss of rear grip, but that isn’t what these cars are about. If driven sensibly, the E-type is the perfect car for touring, leisurely cruising and the occasional blast down an open straight; as long as your other half doesn’t mind the Audrey Hepburn look. 

A good E-type will rekindle your love of driving, but it’s finding these good cars at a decent price that is the challenge.  

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VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR E-TYPE SERIES 1

Engine                                    3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  265bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 260lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                150mph     

0-60mph                                  6.9sec

Consumption                           18mpg

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

When buying an E-type your first concern should be for rust. No series 1 cars were galvanized, and few were undersealed on leaving the factory. Many have made journeys across the oceans in their lifetime, exposing them to salty sea air that is corrosive over time. Surface rust will be easy to spot, but it’s vital you dig deeper to make sure you’re not buying a pup. Floor pans are prone to rust in early cars, so make sure you lift the carpets and check for corrosion and signs of welding. Be sure to look for fresh paint and signs of recent repair. Outer sills are also fairly weak, and may indicate further rot to the inner sills, an expensive job to put right. Take a magnet with you to check for signs of filler, particularly around the arches, sills and light surrounds. This may not tell the whole story, as some fillers have high metal content.

Bodywork and paintwork are by far and away the most desirable qualities in a decent E-type. Panel fit must be perfect, and finish should be very good. Anything less than perfection will severely hit the value, as E-type buyer’s are prepared to pay for the best, and wont touch anything else. Restoration costs can be astronomical, and the bulk of this cost will be putting right bad bodywork. If the car needs bodywork and paint then walk away unless you have deep pockets; you will never make back the money you will have to spend. 

ENGINE

Originality is king, especially with early Series 1 cars. If you are buying to invest, make sure that all replacement parts are of top quality. Check that engine and chassis numbers match, and insist on a comprehensive history file that details all work carried out on the car. Despite this, don’t be put off by professionally fitted improvements such as brake kits and five-speed gearboxes. Buyers will pay a premium for modifications that improve the driving experience.

Early cars share the same 3.8-litre engine as the XK 150 it replaced. A well-proven engine, it will easily cover 150,000 miles if well maintained, though it will eventually need a rebuild. Start the car from cold and listen for any rattling or knocking noises. This with white smoke from the tail pipe will mean a full rebuild. Check the oil pressure is around the 40psi mark, and that the cooling fan kicks in fairly quickly. If it doesn’t, keep an eye on the temperature gauge, as it may be prone to overheating. Check for mayonnaise under the oil filler cap, and the water reservoir for oil. Both indicate a blown head gasket and costly repairs.

ELECTRICS

Electrics are fairly simple in the E-type, but can be a nightmare to put right all the same. Older restorations will have older wiring, which may perish and short. Any electrical gremlins may be very difficult and expensive to track down, unless you happen to be an electrician. In order to avoid costly mistakes, make sure that everything electrical works. Test everything.

RUNNING GEAR

3.8-litre cars will be fitted with the four-speed manual Moss gearbox, renowned for being a complete pain in the backside. Don’t be put off by a bit of noise and a reluctance to go properly into gear; they really are ‘all like that’, at least until you get the hang of it. If it seems especially loud and difficult then a rebuilt box will probably be needed, at a cost of around £1000. A loud whining noise may indicate a worn diff, and clunking noises suggest worn universal joints.

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.

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OUR VERDICT

Perhaps a more apt question is ‘Why wouldn’t you want one?’ The E-type has consistently been rated by pollsters, motoring journalists and even your grandmother as one of, if not the most, beautiful cars of all time. Enzo Ferrari himself said as much, a huge compliment when you consider that the E-type was in direct competition to his cars. 

Not only is it staggeringly beautiful, but also surprisingly practical. There really is an E-type for every person and every occasion. For the purist, an early 3.8-litre roadster will be top of the wishlist. For the practical man about town, a later 4.2-litre coupé Series 1.5 is the perfect blend of beauty and drivability. Many E-types have been sympathetically modified over the years with uprated suspension, power steering and air conditioning, hugely improving the ownership experience. An expensive classic car that doesn’t draw derisory comments from those less fortunate is a rare find indeed, and is a niche that the E-type fills with aplomb. 

The E-type is perhaps one of the most recognisable and influential classic cars of all time, with prices having skyrocketed as a result. It’s vital that you choose the right one, as the differences between the different models have a huge effect on the driving experience. It’s also important that you drive all the cars beforehand, as any mistake will prove an expensive one. Be particularly wary of early Series 1 cars, which have no synchromesh on first gear. 

Watch out for cars that seem too cheap or too good to be true. Expensive cars are that way for good reasons, and cheap cars likewise. Buy the best you can afford and only buy if you can afford the best. A good car will provide years of motoring Nirvana.

DeLorean DMC-12: Buying guide

There’s no let up in interest for this iconic 1980s film star - the DeLorean DMC12 - which celebrates its 40th birthday in 2021.

Controversy, bizarre construction methods and a sponge for tax payers’ money. The Hollywood notoriety in Back to the Future just added to the life of the DMC12, eclipsing the astonishing looks. Launched in 1981 and built in Northern Ireland, the car was John DeLorean’s dream. It could have been brilliant, but cashflow was poor, sales disappointing and DeLorean himself was brought to his knees in an alleged drug bust. By ’83 it was all over. The cult swiftly developed, and now the DMC12 has one of the youngest age ownerships of any classic.

VITAL STATISTICS

DeLorean DMC-12 US-tune

Engine                                    2849cc/6-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  130bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 162lb ft@2750rpm

Top speed                                110mph

0-60mph                                  10.5sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    5-spd man/3-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Stainless steel panels attach to a glassfibre underbody. Sounds idyllic, but this all sits above a steel chassis, the epoxy coating of which flakes away with age, allowing rampant corrosion, especially around the suspension mounts and near the hydraulic brake and clutch reservoirs. Budget on £8000-9000 if you pay a specialist to make the rot go away, though removing the body isn’t beyond the scope of a competent DIY mechanic. Those stainless steel panels can be very costly to restore too – condition is all-important. 

Doors fail to lift for two reasons. One is that the torsion bar that starts the lift process has failed, the second is that the gas struts need replacing – which can cause the first problem. Struts are around £50
a pair. 

ENGINE

Aluminium cooling pipes run front-to-back, and can degrade with time. Ask if they have been replaced as failure will quickly cook the engine. Note that US-tune is a paltry 130bhp, though this can be improved no end by fitting a stainless steel exhaust for around £1000 that does away with the catalytic converters. European tune was closer to 160bhp, though upgrades are possible. After all, this Douvrain engine was shared with the Alpine A610, Peugeot 504 coupe and Volvo 262C, among others. Make sure the cooling fans kick in as required, and watch for signs of creamy deposits in the oil. It might be from lack of use, or it could be head gasket trouble, so be on your guard.      The five-speed gearbox and three-speed automatic transmission tend to be reliable, so just ensure that all gears work as they should and that there is not any excessive noise.

RUNNING GEAR

The benefit of the Lotus Esprit-derived chassis is that very few parts are unique to the car, so there is no problem seeking basic running gear parts such as shock absorbers, balljoints and brake parts. Check that the car doesn’t pull to one side when braking, which may indicate a sticking brake caliper. Check the tyres for unusual wear and age. The rear tyres are vast, which helps tame the back end.

INTERIOR

Make sure the heating and, where fitted, air conditioning work. Ventilation is not a strong point with those tiny side windows. Make sure the trim is sound too, though the limited choice of grey or black mean a re-trim needn’t be too expensive. Water ingress is another potential issue, though most DeLoreans live sheltered lives. Door seals can leak, but the bonding for the windscreen can fail with age too. Check the carpets and if the vendor is happy, carry out a test with a watering can or hose. Check that the electric windows function correctly. See whether right-hand drive headlamps have been fitted on UK left hookers.

OUR VERDICT

This is a car that people buy for the looks, though that does a disservice to what is a pleasant car to drive. Lotus worked its magic with an unpromising mixture of weight and unusual engine placement, so the car still handles well, even if performance could never be described as astonishing. This is a car you buy to create a scene, so be prepared for endless queries every time you park up. You’ll either enjoy that or you won’t, but excellent club and parts support makes ownership easier, and they’re surprisingly easy to work on.

Mazda RX-7 (FB): Buying guide

After a Japanese coupé that isn’t a Nissan Z-car? Try a Series 1 RX-7...

Launched in 1978 and produced until 1985, the first generation RX-7 was the car that made Mazda’s name throughout Europe. The curious little rotary-engined sports car also demonstrated that NSU’s supposed folly could be made to work; in fact, many RX-7s ended up donating their engines to the stylish Ro80. 

The RX-7 also kicked off a succession of world-class Mazda sports cars that has encompassed landmark vehicles like the MX-5 and RX-8. It’s the perfect alternative for anyone who wants a coupé with charm, something Japanese that isn’t a Z-car or who is intrigued by the smoothness and engineering of a rotary engine. Here’s what you need to know.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Mazda RX-7

Engine                                    1146cc/twin rotor

Power (bhp@rpm)                  100bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 105lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                122mph

0-60mph                                   9.2sec

Consumption                           22-25mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rot killed off most of the UK’s first generation RX-7s – and those used to British sports cars will be unsurprised by just how prolific corrosion can be. Wheelarches are the first to go, followed by the floorpans, sills and rear suspension mounts. If it’s not a museum piece, just about every example will probably have had work in these areas, so don’t disregard a car that has had welding, as long as
the work is to a high standard. The inner wings, windscreen corners and footwells are other key rot spots, and it pays to make sure the metal beneath the back seat is solid. 

ENGINE

Oil leaks from the front and rear crankshaft seals aren’t unknown, but the rotor tip seals are a far more common problem. Parts aren’t expensive, but fitment is a specialist job and the hours soon mount up. When warm, the oil pressure should be 60psi at 4000rpm. Check the unions on the oil cooler; they can crack. Oil losses are bad news, as it provides a third of the cooling as well as lubricating the engine. A compression test is a professional job – anything under 75psi, walk away. Engines can last for hundreds of thousands of miles, provided the oil is changed every 3000 miles. Smoke indicates worn oil control rings, unless it’s white, which means coolant is passing the ring squares
– the rotary equivalent of head gasket failure.

RUNNING GEAR

You’ll get 100,000 miles from both the clutch and gearbox. Worn lower balljoints can be an issue, but these are still available. Bushes wear too, but polybush kits are available which should alleviate any issues and are a desirable upgrade. RX-7 steering was by recirculating ball, not rack-and-pinion – excess play can be sorted, but it’s a haggling point. Dead steering feel indicates it’s been overtightened, which is equally bad news.

INTERIOR

The velour trim is hard-wearing but near-impossible to replace when
it gets tatty. Some cars have the desirable optional leather interior, which can be retrimmed at a price. Check that the appearance matches the mileage covered – the service history should give you the necessary clues. Dashboards rarely crack, which is
a good thing since they are difficult to remove. However, the seats collapse as they get older. 
Used replacements are rare – the best option is to refurbish the existing seats – while electric window switches and rear wipers are known to burn out. Barring this, there aren’t really any electrical concerns. In fact, it’s one of the RX-7’s strong suits.

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OUR VERDICT

Enthusiasts who gravitate towards the first generation RX-7 are usually on the lookout for a wedgy 1980s coupé that isn’t a Porsche 944. It’s a slightly leftfield choice, but there’s no denying its intelligent, forward-thinking design and a sense of delicate style that later versions of the RX-7 arguably lacked. It’s also a proper sports car with a beautifully balanced rear-drive chassis, optimum front/rear weight distribution and an engine that begs to be revved.

Vauxhall Calibra: Buying guide

Vauxhall’s Calibra was stunning when new and is still a very handsome herd of horses.

The Calibra was promoted with the slogan ‘a coupe without compromise.’ And although that was a little bit of flannel – for underneath, it compromised by using the Cavalier as its platform – this was the car that reintroduced the idea of the affordable coupe. It kickstarted a whole new trend for these, as well as ushering in the adoption of svelte and sleek curves again, something that the angular ‘80s had largely eschewed.       

VITAL STATISTICS

Vauxhall Calibra 2.5i V6

Engine           2498cc/V6/DOHC

Power            168bhp@6000rpm

Torque          169lb ft@4200rpm

Top speed    147mph

0-60mph        7.3sec

Economy      27mpg

Gearbox        5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork
Rust shouldn’t be that much of a problem. However, look under any plastic trim for any indications of blossoming tin worm. The inner rear arches and quarters are sensitive spots, best checked from inside the boot with the carpets pulled aside. The boot floor and spare wheel well also corrode, as can the sills. Blocked drain holes are usually the cause, as they are with the sunroof, which can go around its edges, accompanied by water staining and warping of the headlining inside. On pre-1994 cars, the door bottoms can also go flaky.    

Because these are high performance machines, there’s every chance they might have been crashed then badly repaired. Ripples and unusual welds in the inner wings under the bonnet point to this and also scrutinise for uneven panel gaps.

Engine and Gearbox
On the four-cylinder cars, frequent oil changes are crucial to the life of turbochargers and actuators on the Turbo models. A conscientious owner will have done these at a third of the recommended Vauxhall schedule. Blue smoke on idle points to worn oil seals here. The normally-aspirated eight-valve is pretty tough, the 16-valve ‘Redtop’ less so, thanks to cracked or porous heads. So look for signs of overheating and head gasket issues and evidence that the coolant level has been religiously maintained. The 16-valve Ecotec is quite notorious for sensor problems, so be wary of any lights showing on the dashboard or a car that won’t rev properly.   

The V6 engine is robust and unstressed. However, as changing the three rear spark plugs involves removing the inlet manifold, question the owner as to when this was last done. It can get skipped because of its difficulty.  

Gearboxes are usually fine, but transfer boxes on the 4x4 turbos aren’t known for their longevity, especially if the four tyres have been allowed to wear unevenly. Check for equal treads.

With the handbrake on, increase the revs to about 900rpm and gently release the clutch. Eventually, the car should stall; if it doesn’t, then it points to this item needing replacement.

Running Gear
Press down on each corner of the car a few times; if it bounces more than a few times when released, it signals that the shock absorbers need replacing. Lower wishbone arms can break, causing the suspension to collapse. These are best checked over by a specialist. Steering racks can leak, so check the PAS reservoir. On 4x4 cars this is even more crucial as the transfer box shares the fluid.

Brakes don’t normally play up save for warped discs – a judder through the pedal – while ABS wheel sensors can fail and the common bodge is just to disconnect them. Check the light comes on at ignition but then goes out.

Interior and Electrics

Wear is common on seat side bolsters and the steering wheel. Leather interiors generally fare better than cloth ones. Check all the switches work – especially the sticking-prone hazard warning one – although with much shared with the Cavalier, replacements are easy to source. Make sure items like the electric windows, heated seats, mirrors and sunroof still behave as they should.   

OUR VERDICT

It’s not often that you can legitimately refer to a Vauxhall as sexy and not have people nervously back away from you. However the Calibra is all that and as it gains genuine classic status, appreciation for it is on the rise. And that will cause the prices to follow suit. The 4x4 Turbos deliver blistering performance, but do require much looking after, so a V6 is our recommendation for Calibra power with reliability and practicality.