Interested in buying an example of the brilliant Toyota Corolla GT (AE86) built between 1983-1987? The CCfS buying guide will tell you all you need to know.
TOYOTA SERA REVIEW
Toyota Sera
Launched in 1989 as a domestic-market only model, the smooth, glassy body sported dihedral doors that inspired the McLaren F1 layout, owing a lot to the Alfa Romeo 33 Stradale. Exotic looks clothe a mundane Starlet and Corolla derived drivetrain, with an eager 1.5 16v engine and choice of remarkably efficient automatic, or close ratio five-speed manual gearbox. Previewed as the AVX-II, the few changes made placed the Sera as a more advanced vehicle than the concept. For a boutique car the Sera accomplished impressive sales, with 15,941 produced between February 1990 and December 1995.
As the JDM personal import boom caught the imagination of UK buyers, by the mid 2000s there were at least 300 Seras in Britain. Some cars continue to be available through importers, though the best survivors are now cherished classics in Japan where values are rising. Now the majority of UK imports now have been on these shores for over a decade, they represent an affordable route to supercar styling with low running costs and plenty of scope for sympathetic tuning.
Driving a Sera is a unique experience, with a low seating position and incredibly airy cabin
ambience. Stop for fuel and you will be fending off questions for days, and should you meet another Sera owner it’s unlikely your cars will be identical - diverse options and accessories almost ensure no two Seras are alike. Now is the time to buy, before the UK’s winters and low prices have reduced the number and quality of survivors.
ENGINE 3442cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 160bhp@5100rpm
TORQUE 195lb ft@2500rpm
MAXIMUM SPEED 120mph
0-60MPH 12.0sec
fuel consumption 20-24mpg
TRANSMISSION RWD, four-spd man
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Corrosion
Despite the common belief that JDM cars aren’t well rust-proofed, the Sera is a well made car from a firm with a good record for build quality. Even so, with the youngest examples approaching 20 years old rust issues from poor rectification on import are only one element. Problem areas are the bottom of the doors, where the rubber protection strip can be lost and stonechips overlooked, B-pillars and front wings. Sills may be poor near the rear arch and jacking points. Check for bollard damage at the rear, also.
Door Mechanism
Most Seras in the UK arrived as secondhand cars already 10 years old. From new, the Sera door should lift itself swiftly with only a couple of inches movement, with a distinct deceleration, then stop. Three components work to lift the door, and most owners focus on the visible gas strut, tending to get overgassed, reconditioned items to compensate for drop in the heavy doors. For correct operation, the internal door balancer and the pivot mechanism linking the top of the strut to it need to be free to move. Attempts to repair the struts should start by ensuring the pivot is free to move.
Engine & Drivetrain
The Sera came equipped with one engine option, the Toyota 5E-FHE. Closely related to the UK market Paseo’s 5E-FE, this 110bhp engine combined components from the E-family. Several Seras have been converted with 4E-FTE Starlet Turbo engines, a very appropriate route to giving the car performance to match the looks. Most cars are equipped with Toyota’s impressive automatic gearbox, which allows economical, relaxed motorway cruising; manual versions have a five-speed with pleasant, precise shift action but gearing that makes longer motorway trips tiring. As expected from Toyota there are few weaknesses, though one quirk is that automatic cars will not engage overdrive until the car reports it has warmed up - stuck thermostat or failed sensors major fault.
Trim and Equipment
Specification can vary wildly, with typically Japanese-market features like ‘scent synthesiser’ and in-car fax offered. Air conditioning is standard, so look to see if it has been converted for R134a. The most common option encountered is SLSS - Super Live Sound System, which in original form could rotate the rear speaker to bounce off the rear window or aim directly into the car, applying different processing. Most cars will have lost the original DSP-equipped head unit, many have lost the speaker tube, but they should have a centre speaker and pod mounted tweeters on the dashboard. It is possible to make a loom that supports rotation and subwoofer. Desirable extras include the CleanACE cabin filtration unit, centre cubby/armrest and dashboard organiser. Most of the 2+2 cabin’s trim is hardwearing and simple. A pair of lightweight roof blinds to cut down on solar gain were standard, and some cars are also tinted. The parcel shelf and luggage space divider suffer peeling vinyl, and the standard parcel shelf is not strong enough for aftermarket speakers.
Headlights go cloudy, and are expensive new or used Like most Japanese imports, cheap and nasty foglights are often used - a 7th Generation Celica one is a perfect fit in the bumper for a factory look.
OUR VERDICT
Toyota’s Sera is a joy to live with. Compact dimensions with great visibility make it an excellent urban car, with soft suspension coping well with Britain’s neglected streets. The minimal space needed to open the doors is perfect for cramped parking, and proven Toyota running gear is smooth, economical and refined, particularly in automatic form. Yet the impact on passers by when you stop and open the door never gets old.
TOYOTA MR2 REVIEW
Squeezing a remarkable amount of driving enjoyment from the bare minimum of component parts, the MR2 can rightly take its place in the sports car hall of fame. Toyota’s engineers were certainly onto a good thing when they readied the baby coupé for its 1984 launch; a mid-engined layout, small but zippy 16-valve powerplant, razor-sharp handling and up-to-the-minute styling.
Others, such as the Fiat X1/9, had already explored this layout, but the MR2’s great strength was adding Toyota’s legendary reliability into the mix. When the first examples started to appear on British roads, they boasted a five-speed gearbox and a gusty 1.6 litres, although overseas markets also received a supercharged version. The more rounded Mk2 version took up the MR2 baton in 1989.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Although better protected at the factory than many modern classics, rust can still strike with the MR2. Start your inspection checking for evidence of cabin leaks. Whether the car you’re looking at has a T-bar and removable roof panels, or simply a sunroof, water ingress from either will result in damp carpets; check the floor pans for signs of the resultant rust damage. Windscreen pillars can corrode from beneath the bonded-in windscreen.
Inspect the bottom of the rear quarter panels, particularly where they adjoin the B-post. Although most of this area is covered by plastic trim, be on the lookout for bubbling paint around the trim edges; a tell-tale of hidden corrosion. The same can be said for the plastic sill trims, fitted to all but the earliest Mk1s.
ENGINE & GEAROX
Toyota’s engines are famed for their toughness and reliability, and the MR2’s powerplant is no different. UK-spec cars were fitted with a revvy 16-valve, 1587cc, four-cylinder lump. Mileages well in excess of 150,000 miles can easily be achieved, although a lack of correct maintenance won’t have done the engine any favours.
Ask the vendor how often the car has been serviced, and also ensure that the cambelt has been renewed every 60,000 miles. Failure to do so could have expensive consequences. Look out for signs of moisture in the cooling system, indicating a blown head gasket. With an alloy cylinder head, the correct level of anti-freeze must be maintained.
RUNNING GEAR
With a tough five-speed gearbox handling the engine’s power, the transmission is as reliable as the engine. On your test drive, watch out for a heavily worn ‘box that jumps out of fifth gear under hard acceleration. Repair is possible, but it may make more sense simply to exchange the entire unit.
Warped disc brakes on early, pre-1985 cars are common, so feel for judder when braking. Later cars were fitted with beefier items at the factory, so are less susceptible. Listen out for knocking while on the move, which could be caused by tired anti-roll bar drop links, or worn-out steering rack or tie-rod end bushes. Bounce each corner of the car in turn; if the car takes time to settle, a damper could be at fault.
INTERIOR & ELECTRONICS
Hard-wearing plastics give little cause for concern, while later leather items can be repaired or re-trimmed, at a price. The controls can give a clue to the car’s true mileage; do a well-worn steering wheel and pedals back up the odometer reading?
Test the electrical functions, as non-functioning electric windows are costly to put right. Also check the operation of the central locking button.
OUR VERDICT
If ever there was a car that proved that you don’t need a colossal power output and a huge price tag to make a good driver’s car, then the MR2 is it. Absurdly low values mean that, if you choose sensibly, you can track down a driving machine that you will not only enjoy, but will last for an awfully long time. That mid-engined, rear-wheel drive, two-seater layout endows the MR2 with surprising poise, yet its light weight and diminutive size results in a modest thirst.
TOYOTA MR2 MKIII REVIEW
How to choose a cracking example of this last-generation mid-engine roadster.
Since its launch in 1984, the ‘Mid-ship Runabout 2’ has impressed buyers with a blend of sharp styling and even sharper dynamics. The first two generations were available only as coupes, although many were fitted with a lift-out T-bar roof, but for the third and final ‘W30’ model Toyota went the whole hog and produced the car solely as a drop-top roadster. On sale from 2000-2006 it certainly proved a hit with those after good looks and agile handling without breaking the bank, and the same remains true today. Much of the enjoyment to be had comes courtesy of the delightfully free-revving 1.8-litre twin-cam motor, and while 140bhp might not sound like much nowadays it’s enough to get the lightweight two-seater to 60mph in less than eight seconds. And while you have to work the engine to get the best out of it, that’s certainly no hardship as it spins to the 6400rpm power peak with real gusto. A slick-shifting manual gearbox helps to get the best out of it, too, and while there’s the option of a sequential transmission there’s far more fun to be had by swapping ratios yourself. Wringing the motor out will also introduce you to another facet of the MR2, and that’s the fine handling. Again, the modest weight pays dividends as it changes direction with real poise and agility, and thanks to the standard limited-slip differential grip is limpet like in the dry. Slippery conditions are another matter though, and while it’s not especially tricky the combination of short-ish wheelbase, mid-engine layout, and 55 per cent rearward weight bias demands a degree of respect. The accurate and feelsome steering is the icing on the cake, though, when it comes to a twisty B-road. Things are pretty pleasant on the inside, too, with a snug but comfortable cabin and all the kit you’re likely to need although trim is on the plasticky side. And while some people complain of limited luggage space, it’s no worse than similar cars in reality. And you can always pack light to enjoy everything this cracking roadster has to offer.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1794cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 140bhp@6400rpm
Torque 127lb ft@4400rpm
Top speed 130mph
0-60mph 7.9secs
Economy 38mpg
Gearbox 5/6-speed manual/Sequential Manual Transmission
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
The majority of the steel panels are bolted on, which makes replacement easier, but it’s well worth checking for any evidence of previous accident damage. A combination of lively performance and rearward weight bias could have led to some exiting the road backwards so check the history and examine the panel gaps and paintwork for any sign of mismatches. Parts prices are reasonable, though.
Corrosion doesn’t appear to be a major issue, but with the earliest now fifteen years old a thorough check of the panels makes sense. Some owners have complained of rot affecting the rear sub-frame and cross-member, and it can be hidden out of sight, so get a specialist to check if you’re unsure. The same goes for the sills, and you should also check for any signs of interior damp that could have allowed rust to develop: the hood drain holes in the side vents can become blocked allowing water to flow into the cabin.
Engine
The 1ZZ-FED engine is a cracker, but not without issues in pre-facelift cars built before late 2002. The main one is the potential for the brittle innards of the ‘pre-cat’ – the catalytic convertor located after the exhaust manifold but ahead of the main cat – to break up, with bits ingested into the engine via the EGR system with disastrous consequences. The cylinder bores get scored leading to high oil consumption and excessive smoke, so ask the vendor whether the engine has been changed or the cats removed. Not all were affected by any means, but it’s worth checking the history. Failed oxygen sensors can be common too: three are fitted and it’s often sensible to replace them all at the same time. OEM items are pricey but best according to specialists.
It’s also worth checking for loose and rattling exhaust heat shields and evidence of oil leaks from around the timing chain tensioner which can be tricky to cure. The chain itself should be trouble-free as long as oil changes haven’t been neglected. A fat sheaf of bills gives peace of mind and a well maintained example will cover big mileages without trouble. Also, these engines respond well to tuning so make sure you’re aware of any work that might have been done here. The MR2 is well served by specialists and parts suppliers so keeping one in good mechanical fettle will be no problem.
Interior
The cabin is well screwed together, so only abused cars should be showing any significant signs of wear and tear. Check everything works, though, including the air-conditioning which was standard on factory hard top models. That top is quite desirable and can be retro-fitted, although a kit is required costing a couple of hundred pounds. Check it hasn’t been damaged by clumsy handling or storage, though. The convertible hood is a quality item that just need checking for rips and abrasion, but it’s worth noting that if the glass rear window is damaged the whole hood will need replacing.
Transmission
The manual gearboxes are robust unless abused - a six-speed item was standard from late-2002 - but it’s worth ensuring the clutch is healthy as replacement is quite involved. The facelift also brought the option of the clutch-less Sequential Manual Transmission: it works well on the road but the Bosch electronics can play up and repairs can be costly, so manual is probably best. A limited-slip differential was standard on all UK cars, and rarely gives trouble.
Suspension and steering
Suspension and steering components can suffer corrosion so examine them carefully, and if the handling isn’t pin-sharp then suspect suspension bushes in need of replacement. The electric power steering pump isn’t immune from problems either, so be wary of notchiness or uneven assistance at the wheel. Brakes are trouble-free and just need checking for wear or illumination of the ABS warning light, but the MR2 is tyre-sensitive so look for good quality items that match all round. The alloy wheels can be prone to corrosion but aren’t expensive to refurbish.
OUR VERDICT
Boasting compact dimensions, sparkling performance, and terrific handling there’s very little not to like about this last generation of MR2. A cared-for example will be reliable and inexpensive to run, and we’d advise going for a post-facelift example as it benefits from some useful upgrades. Either way, though, you won’t be disappointed with what this terrific roadster has to offer.
TOYOTA CELICA GT4 REVIEW
The ST2015 is brilliant, and it's something of a bargain. Check out our buyers guide to find out what you should be looking out for...
The Toyota Cecila GT4 is a bit of a hidden gem these days. Built to tear up stages in the World Rally Championship and introduced as an ST165 version in 1986, it offered all-wheel drive and a turbocharged engine before the likes of Subaru and Mitsubishi got in on the act.
However, by the ST205's launch in 1995, WRC competition was fierce. In fact, it was so desperate that Toyota's rally team was caught competing with an out-of-spec air restrictor, ending its works career with just one win to its name. That's a shame, because as the first car to use anti-lag to keep the turbo spinning off-throttle, it paved the way for many famous rallying machines.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power: 239bhp@6000rpm
Torque: 223lb ft@4000rpm
Maximum speed: 152mph
0-60mph: 6.3sec
Fuel consumption: 28-35mpg
Transmission: 4WD, five-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Suspension
One of the most expensive things to fix on a GT4 is that clever 'Superstrut' front suspension. The main bit known to fail is called the 'figure eight' camber control link, which joins the damper to the lower front suspension arm. Check for forward and backward movement of the wheel with the car stationary to indicate wear on this part, but also listen for knocking from the front over bumps and under braking. Worn parts are usually replaced as a job lot (upper and lower arms plus figure eight), and it's this plus labour time which pushes the cost up so high. There should be no knocking from the rear of the car either, and if there is, it's likely to be the rear differential mount.
Engine
Make sure it isn't pumping blue smoke out of the exhaust, which could indicate turbo selas (or worse), or white smoke which might mean coolant is finding its way into the cylinders. Both could mean expensive repairs, and could be as a result of poor modifications earlier in the car's life. A damp passenger footwell indicates an expensive heater matrix repair bill impending. Ensure the clutch has been replaced or is in good condition, because replacement is an engine-out job and a day's work in professional mechanical labour.
Bodywork
An all-wheel drive car is fantastic for the winter but in the GT4's case beware of rust - UK-supplied cars suffer from corrosion caused by the salt our gritting lorries spread. If you're looking at an import, check it's been undersealed to prevent expensive repairs. You can tell by looking under the sills and wheel arches for rough-looking black paint.
OUR VERDICT
The Toyota Celica GT4 ST205 is an accessible and reliable performance car that's as proficient in mid-winter as it is on a trackday. Finding a cared-for example should leave you with relatively low service and maintenance costs too, and sniffing out a WRC example gets you into a genuine piece of rallying history.
As you might expect for a car built for the worst that snow, forest and gravel stages can throw at it, handling was very important to Toyota. The GT4 featured a sophisticated 'Superstrut' front suspension system which was also well ahead of its time, the car turning in eagerly with responsive steering. It bit hard, too, a permanent 50/50 torque-split all-wheel drive system meaning prodigius traction on the exit of corners.
The clever money is on a WRC version - if you can find one - which was built specifically for rally homologation and thus featured interesting add-ons: an anti-lag valve and facilities for water injection, just like the proper rally cars.
But even a 'normal' GT4 is a fantastic performer. The turbocharged third-generation 3S-GTE engine is a particular highlight, using oil-squirters under the pistons and a charge-cooler in place of an air-toair intercooler for reliability. This lump was also found in the import-onyly MR2 Turbo, but earned notoriety when used in motorsport applications, including Group C sportscar racing.
TOYOTA MR2 MKI (1984-1989) REVIEW
Combining minimalist sports car thrills with Japanese reliability, Toyota’s MR2 offers a lot of bang for your buck
Squeezing a remarkable amount of driving enjoyment from the bare minimum of component parts, the MR2 can rightly take its place in the sports car hall of fame. Toyota's engineers were certainly onto a good thing when they readied the baby coupé for its 1984 launch; a mid-engined layout, small but zippy 16-valve powerplant, razor-sharp handling and up-to-the-minute styling.
Others, such as the Fiat X1/9, had already explored this layout, but the MR2’s great strength was adding Toyota’s legendary reliability into the mix. When the first examples started to appear on British roads, they boasted a five-speed gearbox and a gusty 1.6 litres, although overseas markets also received a supercharged version. The more rounded Mk2 version took up the MR2 baton in 1989.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1587cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 122bhp@6600rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 105lb ft@5200rpm
Top speed 118mph
0-60mph 7.7sec
Consumption 29mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Although better protected at the factory than many modern classics, rust can still strike with the MR2. Start your inspection checking for evidence of cabin leaks. Whether the car you’re looking at has a T-bar and removable roof panels, or simply a sunroof, water ingress from either will result in damp carpets; check the floor pans for signs of the resultant rust damage. Windscreen pillars can corrode from beneath the bonded-in windscreen.
Inspect the bottom of the rear quarter panels, particularly where they adjoin the B-post. Although most of this area is covered by plastic trim, be on the lookout for bubbling paint around the trim edges; a tell-tale of hidden corrosion. The same can be said for the plastic sill trims, fitted to all but the earliest Mk1s.
ENGINE
Toyota’s engines are famed for their toughness and reliability, and the MR2’s powerplant is no different. UK-spec cars were fitted with a revvy 16-valve, 1587cc, four-cylinder lump. Mileages well in excess of 150,000 miles can easily be achieved, although a lack of correct maintenance won’t have done the engine any favours.
Ask the vendor how often the car has been serviced, and also ensure that the cambelt has been renewed every 60,000 miles. Failure to do so could have expensive consequences. Look out for signs of moisture in the cooling system, indicating a blown head gasket. With an alloy cylinder head, the correct level of anti-freeze must be maintained.
RUNNING GEAR
With a tough five-speed gearbox handling the engine’s power, the transmission is as reliable as the engine. On your test drive, watch out for a heavily worn ‘box that jumps out of fifth gear under hard acceleration. Repair is possible, but it may make more sense simply to exchange the entire unit.
Warped disc brakes on early, pre-1985 cars are common, so feel for judder when braking. Later cars were fitted with beefier items at the factory, so are less susceptible. Listen out for knocking while on the move, which could be caused by tired anti-roll bar drop links, or worn-out steering rack or tie-rod end bushes. Bounce each corner of the car in turn; if the car takes time to settle, a damper could be at fault.
INTERIOR
Hard-wearing plastics give little cause for concern, while later leather items can be repaired or re-trimmed, at a price. The controls can give a clue to the car’s true mileage; do a well-worn steering wheel and pedals back up the odometer reading?
Test the electrical functions, as non-functioning electric windows are costly to put right. Also check the operation of the central locking button.
OUR VERDICT
If ever there was a car that proved that you don’t need a colossal power output and a huge price tag to make a good driver’s car, then the MR2 is it. Absurdly low values mean that, if you choose sensibly, you can track down a driving machine that you will not only enjoy, but will last for an awfully long time. That mid-engined, rear-wheel drive, two-seater layout endows the MR2 with surprising poise, yet its light weight and diminutive size results in a modest thirst.