The Ford Sierra XR8 was conceived to defeat all in South African Group 1 touring car racing, taking the fight to the BMW 745i and Alfa Romeo GTV6. We see how the V8-powered Sierra stacks up on the roads today
Ford Sierra XR4i: Ads on test
Ford Tickford Capri Turbo: Auction watch
For many years it was de rigeur to point and mock the Ford Tickford Capri, largely on account of its eye-popping bodywork. That, combined with its price, meant it wasn’t a huge seller. But for the money you got the full Tickford treatment – cars were delivered from Cologne before being taken apart and reassembled by the same fingers that worked on Aston Martins and the RS Fords.
FORD ANGLIA 105E REVIEW
Rakish style and bags of character – Dagenham’s darling has huge appeal...
If you’re in the market for a small 1960s saloon, you wont go far wrong with an Anglia 105E. The 997cc four-cylinder engine is frugal and easy to work on, and while it won’t set the world alight with its performance, it makes the car a usable everyday classic that can easily hold its own in modern traffic in most conditions.
The engine is surprisingly capable, but needs to be revved to get the most out of it. This makes the 105E feel very peppy and engaging to drive. The gearbox provides a smooth and assured gear change – four speeds being adequate for everything other than extended motorway driving. The brakes take a bit of getting used to, but easily slow the Anglia thanks to its low kerbweight, which will also leave few owners wishing for power steering – perfect for those who find larger classics difficult to manage.
All-round visibility is terrific, with the large windows affording the driver an unimpeded and panoramic view of the road ahead. The 105E is great all-rounder and a real charmer, which explains its ongoing popularity since 1959.
VITAL STATISTICS
1960 Ford Anglia 105E
Engine 997cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 39bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 55ft lb ft@2700rpm
Top speed 73mph
0-60mph 26.9sec
Consumption 41mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Wings will rust at their trailing edge, and if they are gone, then the A-pillar behind is likely to be in bad shape, too. Rear arches are usually fine, but rear wings will crumble between the wheelarch and lower bumper. Behind the front numberplate is a water trap, so feel behind for loose rust. The lower front valance will corrode at either end; rear valances are connected to the crossmember by four pop-rivets and will rust in cars that aren’t kept clean. Doors will start to decay around the frame and in the centre below the rear quarter light. Replacement panels can cost up to £400, but repair sections are cheap. Front and rear wings are rarely beyond repair.
Bonnets and boot lids will start to rust around their edges, with boots also rusting around the hinges. Boot floors will also corrode, so make sure you lift up the carpet and have a good poke around. Carefully check the area where the boot floor meets the rear panel – there is a drainage hole here that easily becomes blocked. The front headlights will rust at their peak, and rear lights can go if dirt and salt collects behind the chrome work. Windscreens rarely pose a problem, and rear screens stay dry for the most part, so both should be fine.
Sills will eventually succumb to corrosion – starting at the front, then the rear, then the middle. If sills are a mess in the middle then it is a sure sign the rest is in poor shape, perhaps poorly repaired or filled. Rust on the outer sills will also suggest that the inner membranes are rotten, so budget for replacement parts. If the sills seem sound, be sure to check that the drain hole to the front of the sill is clear – if not, it will lead to problems in the future.
ENGINE
The997cc engines will last for more than 100,000 miles, whereas 1.2-litre engines do well to make it to 70,000 miles without a re-build. Start the engine from cold at a fast idle and listen for any knocking. Take off the top of the rocker cover and start the engine from cold – walk away if it throws out oil or any amount of smoke. There’s no synchromesh on first gear on 997cc engine cars, so be aware of this if you’re taking a test drive. Gearboxes are rock solid – some have been known to make it to more than 325,000 miles – but you should make sure gear changes are precise and positive.
RUNNING GEAR
Front and rear crossmembers will eventually give up at either end where dirt collects, so make sure you take a good look behind each valance. Though not terribly expensive to repair, it is beyond the capability of the average amateur mechanic, and can be tricky to put right. Inner sills and jacking points will rust with time, but gearbox tunnels should be solid. Lift the rear seat squabs and look at the floorpan underneath. This is just above the rear jacking points, so should give you some indication of rust problems and previous repairs.
BRAKES
If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.
INTERIOR
Interiors are basic and practical, with the majority being trimmed in vinyl. Some cars were finished in leather, but these attract no real price premium over standard interiors, so don’t pay extra for it. Full interior sets are easy enough to source and relatively cheap to refurbish if not in top condition.
OUR VERDICT
The 105E was the final Anglia and the result of the refinement and innovation of a model that had started life before WW2. Produced from 1959, the 105E sported rakish US-influenced styling that British cars had lacked up to that point. Gone were the smooth curves of the 100E, replaced by a backward slanting rear window and prominent headlamps. Testing in the wind tunnel resulted in a more shallow bonnet, with subtle tail fins added to give the impression of speed – a bold design choice.
The 105E also received a 997cc OHV straight-four engine, a long overdue addition to the Ford range. The engine produced 39bhp, a slight improvement in performance, but a giant leap in reliability.
Throughout its eight years of production, Ford built just over one million 105Es – 191,752 of these were in its first year, smashing Ford’s volume production record at the time. As well being an affordable car of the people, the 105E was also used extensively in motorsport. Ford was aware of the desire to tune cars long before their rivals, even producing a performance kit which cost £13.
The Anglia 105E has established a reputation for being the ideal starter classic, and it’s a reputation that is well deserved. They are very affordable, and almost any job can be attempted in your garage at home. A relatively plentiful supply of cars means parts are easy to come by, too, and a strong club following means there are plenty of summer events to keep you occupied. Huge popularity in the modifying community has resulted in a raft of performance upgrades to suit every budget and ensured that quality engines are still easy to get hold of.
As with most cars of this age, you can quickly spend a lot of money on restoration, so it pays to buy the best example you can find. It’s better to buy a car with proven history from a club member, as some project cars will be hiding serious problems and are likely to be much more expensive to repair than you budget for.
FORD CAPRI MK1 REVIEW
The Ford Capri is a true cult classic. This is reflected by the huge volume of parts and accessory dealerships still active, and the sheer volume of active owners clubs. Much of this status is due to the Capri's styling, appearing more American than European – the car had a really bold image. Ford had had such success with the Mustang that it decided Europe needed its own ‘personal coupe’. It followed the same ethos as the Mustang, with cheap prices and lots of scope for personalisation – it appealed to countless people with different budgets.
From appearances in Only Fools And Horses (being Del Boy's sporty, weekend number in a hideous lime green), a starring role in The Professionals (with Bodie and Doyle driving 3.0L versions at break-neck speeds, mostly side-ways), a regular spot on Minder (a Ford Capri was often the car of choice for Terry McCann) to John Wayne jumping Tower Bridge inthe film Brannigan, it was everywhere. Then there's Ford's immortal ad-line when marketing the Capri; "The car you always promised yourself".
In development the Capri was known as the Colt; however Ford were forced to change this as the trademark was held by Mitsubishi. In searching for a new name Ford settled on Capri, which they lent from an earlier, unsuccessful model of theirs, the Ford Consul Capri 335. The first Ford Capri Mk1, was released in 1969 and was basedon the Cortina and produced in the UK at the Dagenham plant.
The Capri was intended to be an affordable car, so the initial range included 1.3L and 1.6L engine derivatives. Although the 1.3L may have seemed underpowered at the time, sales in Britain rose substantially during the mid 1970s.
With the Mk1 Capri having already sold over 400,000 units, 1972 saw the release of the Mk1 facelift, known by some enthusiasts as the Capri 'Bis'. The main changes included were a more comfortable ride, new rectangular headlights and the Kent engines being replaced by Ford Pinto lumps.
Production of the MK 1 Capri stopped in 1974, with the Mark 2 replacing it in January 1974.
VITAL STATISTICS
Ford Capri MKI 1600GT
Engine 1599cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 93bhp@5400rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 102lb ft@3600rpm
Top speed 100mph
0-60mph 12sec
Consumption 28mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The Capri's construction is so straightforward it’s crude. That’s good news if you want to buy, restore or maintain a Capri, because you can see everything easily and you repair it without difficulty – apart from the poor panel availability. It’s unlikely you’ll find a Mk I Capri that hasn’t seen the welder’s torch, but as long as any work has been done properly, that’s no problem. Putting right somebody’s bodged corrosion repair is bad enough, but if the car has been shunted at any point, the chances are that things won’t line up.
Carefully check all panel gaps – the Capri might not have had especially tight shut lines, but they should at least be even.
The first port of call with the magnet is around the headlamps, followed closely by the trailing edge of each front wing.
Corrosion can be hidden within the outer sills, so don’t expect it to be obvious – if new sills are needed they are £35 per side and fitting/painting them is straightforward. Rear wheel arches and quarter panels rot badly, but repair panels are available for around £30. If somebody else has already done the work, make sure the outer panel is attached to the inner – bodges are common.
The best way of making sure that everything is what it seems, is to press hard on the sills to see if there’s any give. If the interior is a bit tatty, you can probably lift the carpet enough to press from the inside as well – if the car is really rotten this should give the game away. The front windscreen rubber is prone to leak at the offside lower corner, allowing water to penetrate the windscreen pillar, A-post, sills and footwell – damage may be done before a leak here is noticed.
While you’ve got the doors open, take a look along the underside – they often corrode from the inside out. The A-posts also rust badly, so make sure they’re not flexing as the door is opened – because the doors are long they’re also quite heavy. Their weight is enough to cause wear in the hinge pins. Hinge pins are available for just a few pounds – try Ford to track one down. A check on the front valance is also a good idea as they hold the water and rot badly at the point where they join the wings.
It’s time to lift the bonnet to check those MacPherson strut tops. Thankfully they’re not as rot-prone on the Capri as most other Fords. If the plates have been replaced they should be smoothed in (except on 3-litre cars) and if they are original the production ID number will be visible as it was pressed into the wing top here. The inside edges of the bonnet also rot away if left, so ensure the metal is sound all round the panel – you’d be lucky to track down a replacement bonnet.
ENGINE
The least desirable Capri – as well as the rarest and most highly stressed – is the 1300. Using the same Kent engine but with a few more nags available is the 1600 which, like the 1300, was also available in GT form– this meant twin-choke Webers and four-branch manifolds with consequent power gains. The first sign of trouble will be noisy valve gear, normally down to worn rockers, cam followers and the camshaft itself – by that stage the engine needs a top-end rebuild.
Worn timing chains also cause problems – listen for rattle from the front of the engine – but compared with all these potential maladies, it’s worn rings and bores that will blow the biggest hole in your wallet. Fumes from the oil filler cap and blue smoke from the exhaust will give the game away – a bottom end rebuild lies in store.
The Kent engine is very easy to work on and a rebuilt unit can be tracked down for around £600. Alongside the Kent unit sat the V4 engine of the 2.0-litre cars.
Whereas the Kent cars were disliked because of their lacklustre performance, the V4 cars were shunned due to poor reliability.
The oil pump drive can fail without warning, scrapping the engine in the process; the fibre timing gear can also break up, with much the same result. Steel timing gear can be fitted instead, at around £60 for the parts.
Another common V4 malady is worn bearings for the balancer shaft, which helps to reduce engine-generated vibration. Without this shaft the V4 is a harsh unit, but once the shaft’s bearings go it’s even harsher, so it’s easy to tell if new parts are needed just by starting the engine up. While you’ve got the bonnet up, check for oil and water leaks from blown head gaskets. Fixing those isn’t tricky or expensive, but if the bottom end is rumbling or the valve gear is noisy, steer clear. Parts for the V4 power plant are the hardest to source – go for a car with a more common engine.
Capris with the Essex V6 engine are the most sought after, despite the V6 being based on the same design as the V4. It didn’t need a balancer shaft, which helps things enormously and it’s far less stressed – but the oil pump drive can still pack up with no warning and the fibre timing wheel can still disintegrate. The V6 also has a tendency to overheat, especially if the radiator has been allowed to get clogged up with silt. Blown head gaskets and even cracked cylinder heads are symptoms to look out for so check for oil and water leaks in the engine bay along with white emulsion on the underside of the filler cap.
The final engine fitted to the Mk I Capri is the Pinto (replacing the Kent unit in September 1972). True to Ford, this powerplant had a built-in self-destruct feature: it had a habit of eating camshafts because of a lack of lubrication. The problem was a spraybar fitted under the rocker cover, which was supposed to squirt oil onto the camshaft lobes. But the smallest bit of dirt would block it up. Sometimes it took just a few thousand miles before the camshaft ran dry. The spraybar’s design was revised years ago, which helps things, and as long as the oil and filter have been changed regularly, all should be well. If in doubt a new spraybar can be fitted – it’s not difficult and a new part costs under a fiver. If a new camshaft is needed, the work is easy enough to do but parts for the Pinto engine are more expensive than for the other Ford powerplants.
Capris with the Essex V6 engine are the most sought after, despite the V6 being based on the same design as the V4. It didn’t need a balancer shaft, which helps things enormously and it’s far less stressed – but the oil pump drive can still pack up with no warning. It’s worth looking out for any tuning that’s taken place. There are plenty of reputable companies selling bits to upgrade Ford engines, but there are also lots of cheap parts around that tend to reduce power instead. Bigger carbs and hotter camshafts are par for the course, but gas-flowed heads and free-flow air filters are also common along with supposedly more free-breathing exhaust systems. All these need to be checked and if somebody has taken the usual downdraught Weber route to up the power, make sure it’s all set up properly. It often isn’t.
ELECTRICS
The electrical system is generally reliable. If the loom does need some TLC you’ll have to get the original one rebuilt, as the special connectors that Ford used are no longer available. When it comes to new instrumentation and switchgear, you’ve had it. It’s very rare to find anything at auto jumbles, but luckily, what was fitted is pretty reliable.
Sometimes the headlight switch can get too hot because there’s no relay, so if you want to preserve the life of the unit, slot a relay into the circuit.
Make sure the lights are in good condition, because they’re notoriously pricey to replace, and in the case of the headlights, hard to track down. Pre-facelift cars were fitted with the same headlamps as an Allegro, and you’ll pay £85 for a new one.
Later Capris were fitted with headlights which are even harder to find, and if you can source one you’ll have to fork out over £100 for it – make sure you don’t buy a European import, as they dip the wrong way. Rear lights aren’t any better – early Capris used Escort units which crop up occasionally at around £100 each. But light units for post-facelift cars are extremely rare now and cost even more if they do materialise.
RUNNING GEAR
All Capris were fitted with rack and pinion steering, which doesn’t give problems other than the usual worn parts such as track-rod ends and split gaiters. There’s also a flexible joint in the steering column, and this can wear – if it does, the steering will be vague and suffer from shake. The knuckle has a leather cover which is riveted onto the arm – if you’re struggling to find a new one, a Mk III one will fit.
The suspension is also pretty straightforward, with MacPherson struts at the front that may leak, but they're usually reliable.
Make sure any test drive takes the car over bumpy roads and listen for knocks from worn bushes in the strut top or the track control arms. If these latter bushes have had it, your best bet is to fit new arms rather than renewing the bushes. A new pair of track control arms costs £45 and they’ll come with new bushes already.
The Capri’s rear suspension is also pretty straightforward, with leaf springs that sag after a while (£125 to replace) and shock absorbers that leak. Fixing either set up is easy enough and if the rear dampers need renewing you shouldn’t need to spend more than £35 on a new pair. Cars built before September 1972 were equipped with twin radius arms to keep the back axle in place while later cars were fitted with a single-piece anti-roll bar instead. Whichever system, there’s a good chance the bushes will have seen better days – but at least new bushes are cheap and easy to replace.
One of the great things about the Capri is its transmission, with a slick gear change and strong final drive. The synchromesh is tough and unless the engine has been really highly tuned, the transmission will cope quite happily with plenty of power and torque. Any Capri transmission will take 100,000 miles if looked after and at this mileage the worst that’s likely to materialise is worn synchromesh on second gear and vocal gearbox bearings. Accelerate hard in each gear and see if the car jumps out of gear. If it does, the gearbox has had it and you can bank on having to spend around £250 on a replacement unit. Try to pull away in second gear and see if there’s any judder. If there is, there’s either oil on the clutch or there are weak engine/gearbox mounts. If there’s a whirring noise when you press the clutch down, the clutch release bearing’s had it.
There aren’t many automatic Capris around. The transmission doesn’t have any inherent problems, but still check the transmission fluid, which should be red, although if it’s brown that’s okay. Black means trouble ahead.
Check the fluid by parking the car on a level surface and running the engine until it reaches normal running temperature. Select ‘P’ and allow the car to idle for two minutes, then with the car still idling remove the dipstick and check the level. The difference between the low and full marks is one imperial pint. Also make sure it’s not hanging onto the gears for too long. Automatic gearboxes can be reconditioned for around £150.
Diffs don’t usually give any problems until at least 100,000 miles. The first sign of impending expense is whining. If it does need renewing, a new unit typically costs around £200 on an exchange basis. Also listen for clonks from worn universal joints. They’re cheap to replace, but the job’s fiddly.
If there’s a whine and steering wheel shake at some speeds, it’s likely to be worn half-shaft bearings which cost around £20 per side to replace. If the diff is the problem this is more difficult as the early Timken axle needs special tools to line it up. So it’s really a job best left to the experts.
BRAKES
Aftermarket wheels with extra wide tyres are a common fitment – fine if they fit properly. Make sure there are no clearance problems and if the car looks overtyred, be especially wary of worn suspension and brakes that have been given a hard time.
The self-adjusting mechanisms fitted to all Capris can seize up if the car hasn’t been maintained properly or has been left standing for long periods. But they’re not inherently unreliable so they should be trouble-free. All Capris were fitted with disc brakes at the front, but the brakes aren't up to the job on V6 models – do be careful on the test drive. Servo assist was an option on all cars below a 1600 GT; above that it was standard.
Capris fitted with an automatic gearbox had larger pads and shoes, so if the brakes are due for a service and the car has a slushbox, make sure you don’t try to fit a braking kit for a manual car.
INTERIOR
New interior trim is the Holy Grail of the Mk I Capri owner – even used stuff in good condition is pretty much impossible to find. The only real answer is to get stuff retrimmed. Seats sag and the stitching comes apart, so getting a decent trimmer is the best thing to do. Interior panels will also need to be refurbished (not easy) and the same goes for the dash surround – which can be retrimmed, but it’s tricky as so much work is required.
The original carpets were moulded to fit the shape of the floorpan – nowadays any new floor coverings will be made from flat carpet so won’t fit as well.
It’s the same story for exterior trim, with bright work rarely for sale. Badges get lost or discoloured but most are replaceable for about £15 each. Original chrome wiper arms may be a problem and bumpers rarely turn up. When they do they’re over £100 but be aware that the early Mk I only had one number plate light aperture in the bumper – look closely as bumpers for sale may have two.
OUR VERDICT
When the Mk I Capri was current, there was a model to suit every pocket. But nowadays there simply aren’t enough to go round and you may not be able to find your first choice of spec.
Whereas it used to be the Mk III that everybody wanted, it’s the earliest cars which are now in favour. There’s no sign of that trend changing, so if you’ve been hankering after a Capri for a while, now is the time to start tracking a good one down.
You can make life easier by joining the Capri Mk I Register, but there are still relatively few cars out there, so you can’t be too choosy.
FORD CAPRI MK2 REVIEW
Classic Ford Capri Review
1974 saw the release of the Ford Mk2 Capri. Although mechanically very similar to the Mk1, the 1973 oil crisis forced Ford to make some changes. The car was a more everyday affair now, with a shorter bonnet and 'hatchback' boot design to make the car more practical. Although the hatchback did give it superior boot capacity, some rigidity problems were encountered during development and extra metal was needed to fix this problem. This added even more weight to the increasingly heavy car.
Aesthetically the Capri MK2 is a clear descendent of the MK1. The UK engine range remained the same as the post-September 1972 Capri MK1, with one concession. The Corsair V4 engine was replaced with an American-spec Pinto engine, producing 98bhp.
In addition to current range, lots of new trim levels were developed, including the 1600GT and 2000GT, which both had more powerful engines and folding rear seats. A Ghia trim level also appeared, featuring special alloy wheels, halogen headlamps, tinted glass and ‘Rialto’ seat upholstery.
Capri production in Britain stopped in October 1976 due to a drop in sales in America. These sales drops would have led to less production in Cologne, and economics suggested that centralising production at Cologne would make production more cost-effective.
Official reasoning for pulling out of this market was due to the strong Deutschmark making the car more expensive. With America buying one-third of Capris made in Cologne, this must have been devastating. Production of the Mk2 Capri ceased in 1978.
FORD CAPRI MK3 REVIEW
Classic Ford Capri Review
James Hunt, Ayrton Senna, Grant Mitchell,Terry McCann and of course Bodie and Doyle all drove one, and for Derek ‘Del Boy’ Trotter the ‘Kap-ree’ was the car of his dreams. Yet while the furore surrounding the Capri – in all its iterations – had dwindled by the launch of the MkIII, the British market really took to the car allowing it more than one reprieve in production. The heady days of the 1960s ‘Car you always promised yourself’ were over, yet there was still a profit in the car for Ford of Europe management, albeit a small one. 1981 production amounted to only 34,658 cars, with 22,000 of those bought in Britain during ’81 and fewer than 20,000 in 1982. Put that into context, and only 30 per cent more Capris sold in that year than Escorts were sold in August ’82 alone! So Ford’s task was to take the failing MkII and (cheaply) inject Capri character so buyers would perceive the car as desirable once more. According to the press briefing on 2 March 1978, Ford engineers had ‘achieved a major service breakthrough with the third generation Capri’ which was ‘the product of a young team of Ford Engineers and designers who cannot keep their hands off the car’. Giving the Ford Capri II a crisp look involved few panelwork changes to the monocoque, save for wings and front panel.
The bonnet pressing was slightly altered for the quad lamps. Wraparound bumpers and louvred grille brought the car into line with the new Ford aerodynamic look featured in the Model Range catalogues of the era. It was a cheap restyle, but right on the money to get the punters excited about Capri again. Much talk was made of the aerodynamic gains from these admittedly minor changes, but the public were becoming aero-aware, and Ford’s marketing pitched into the market at exactly the right time to capitalise on it.
But the Capri 3.0 was fighting a rearguard action as the 1980s opened. Younger upstarts such as Golf GTI were snapping at the heels of the old-fashioned coupé. And in the large-engined, higher price bracket, genuine homologation specials such as Chevette HS and Talbot Lotus Sunbeam were priced only a stretch higher in the showroom. But for an ageing demographic of owners used to and happy with rear-wheel drive, the Capri fitted the bill. It did for Ford too – the reticence of older buyers to ask for discounts – brought to the showrooms a discerning, wealthy buyer.
- Ford’s new ‘aerodynamic’ Capri was launched on 2 March 1978
- The MkIII was referred to in development as ‘Project Carla’
- In the ’80s Ford concentrated on the UK market as profit margins were higher
- Ford’s Halewood factory closed in ’76 so only Ford Cologne built MkIIIs
- The most expensive MkIII Capri was the £14,985 Tickford Turbo
- Total Capri production amounted to 1,886,647 examples
FORD CONSUL REVIEW
With prices rising, now could be the perfect time to buy this Ford...
Classic Ford Consul Review
The car you always promised yourself? Despite the fact that the famous line was never used to sell this particular Ford, for teddy boys and Elvis wannabes the Ford Consul Capri was certainly that. Americana on an Acton scale, the Consul Capri and its Classic sister proved that Stateside style needn’t always sell in Surbiton.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1499cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 78bhp@00rpm
Torque 91lb/ft@00rpm
Top Speed 79mph
0-60mph 22.6seconds
Economy 36.7mpg
Gearbox 4 speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
While the Consul Capri is an inherently strong design by dint of its advanced monocoque construction, beware that this is due to a complex (and rot-prone) structure. Check the headlamp panels, outer and inner wings, jacking points, sills, the rear valance and wheelarches – all noted rust traps in the Consul Capri. The pillarless windows might look pretty, but check they seal properly – while badly fitting seals can be remedied, you can’t be certain how long they’ve been like they are and whether they’ve let any water in.
ENGINE
Just two – an enlarged derivative of the Anglia’s Kent engine putting out 1340c, replaced in 1962 by a 1500cc variant. The GT model used the 1500cc engine with an increased compression ratio of 9:1, a modified cylinder head, a new exhaust manifold, a reprofiled camshaft by Keith Duckworth and a Weber carburettor. These engines have proved reliable in service, and due to commonality with other Ford models parts supplies are plentiful. The GT is the rarer, more desirable variant, and does attract a small price premium. Keep the crankcase breather clear – failure to do so can lead to the crackcase over-pressurising and the seals failing.
RUNNING GEAR
Again no surprises, the running gear in the Consul Capri is identical to that in the Classic and shared with the Anglia and Cortina. Make sure you look at the front struts – they’re reliable, but the mountings rot. Not clever!
INTERIOR
It’s like the OK Diner on wheels. Two-tone PVC seating, a painted dashboard to match the car, and a strip speedo – all that’s missing is the Beach Boys eight-track and some extra chrome! With so few cars made and fewer remaining, trim will be hard to find – you’re more likely to source spares through the Ford Classic & Capri Owners Club than anywhere else.
OUR VERDICT
Why should you buy one? Because you’re an extrovert, with a penchant for 1950s American culture, and you’d like something that satisfies your lust for excess yet fits in your garage. The Consul Capri is a T-bird for Britain, and while there are doubtless people who treasure the Consul Classic and Capri as examples of Ford’s failures, most will be out for the rock’n’roll experience.
FORD CORSAIR REVIEW
Classic Ford Corsair Review
The motorways of the Sixties were very different to how they are today. The Ford Corsair sped down the empty roads and cut through the air with its American looks. Even more so today, the Corsair stands out from bland European boxes that queue in traffic jams. Kent engines and mini-Thunderbird looks proved the Corsair had style, sportiness and reliability all in one package. Bag yourself a good one now.
VITAL STATISTICS
Ford Corsair 2 Litre
Engine 1996cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power 93bhp@4750rpm
Torque 120lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 100mph
0-60mph 13.4sec
Economy 24.8mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Doors are particularly susceptible to rust, so it’s well worth having a look for bubbles and signs of corrosion. While you’re there remember to check rust in the boot floor and the sills as well, as these were often used as company cars and have had a hard life. Only Deluxe and GT models had brightwork, but some standard models may have had it added. Scratched chromework is common, but replacement parts on eBay come up regularly so it may be worth buying smaller parts rather than re-chroming them.
ENGINE & GEARBOX
The Corsair was available in 1.5, 1.7 and 2.0-litre engines, but they had a reputation for underwhelming performance, so it’s important to look out for modifications. Although some modifications like changing to Weber 32 DIF carbs can be useful, it’s worth examining any mods, to make sure they’re well maintained. Although the Corsair is generally quite reliable, maintenance is key. Engine oil should be changed every 5000 miles, and valve rocker clearances should be checked at the same interval. When checking the oil levels (recommended every 300 miles), if oil consumption reaches more than 1 pint per 300 miles cylinder bores or rings are worn and need replacing.
RUNNING GEAR
Disc brakes at the front and drums at the rear provide more than ample stopping power. 2.0-litre cars come with an additional boost to the hydraulic system by using the engine inlet manifold to provide greater braking power with less pedal effort. Rear brakes should be replaced every 5000 miles, but front discs can last up to 10,000. Watch out for excessive play in the steering, it could mean the track control arms need replacing. If the steering is particularly stiff this could be incorrect wheel alignment (a common fault.)
INTERIOR
The Corsair lived up to its upmarket image by having luxuries like childproof rear door locks, built-in seat belt anchorages and a heater as standard. As the Cortina shared so much of its DNA with the Corsair it’s only normal parts should be interchangeable. Cortina seats and steering wheels are commonplace in Corsairs as they just bolt straight on. All cars from 1967 onwards came with a wood veneer dash, but many have been changed back to black vinyl from earlier models. It’s worth trying to stick with original parts to maximise your resell value.
ELECTRICS
A printed circuit board inside the instrument panel was proudly displayed by Ford, making it the first car to do so. It can come in handy when locating broken or faulty wires that can cause things like the fuel gauge to register incorrectly. Loose fan belts can result in batteries going flat as it can cause the dynamo to revolve too slowly, and therefore won’t provide enough energy to power the battery. Electrical problems tend to manifest themselves within the cabin, but can stretch to the engine, as there can be ignition problems caused by faulty wiring.
OUR VERDICT
Do you want a classic Ford with American-influenced design, married to European road handling and build quality? The Corsair is the perfect coupling of Ford’s main interests, Europe and America. Our people may be different but Ford’s dominance in both markets shone through in the Corsair, making this middle market Ford anything from middle of the road.
FORD CORTINA MK V REVIEW
The last of the line, the Cortina 80 would herald the end for one of the most popular cars in British history...
The Cortina was never a sports car, but it can still be a real hoot to drive. The 2.3-litre V6 is comfortably the best performer, being the largest capacity and highest power output of all Cortinas. The four-speed manual gearbox helps to make things feel quite sporty, urgently pulling through the gears when given enough encouragement.
Still a big car, it won’t appreciate being flung into corners, but suspension and brakes are both up to the task of relatively enthusiastic driving. Being particularly roomy inside, the MkV makes a perfect long distance tourer, and will be much more reliable than many older classics of similar type. A 0-60 time of only 10.5 seconds is ample to keep up with most modern traffic, and the top speed of 108mph is more than you would ever need on public roads. 1.6-litre and 2-litre cars are functional and will be suitable for most people, but the 1.3-litre version will leave you wanting much more.
VITAL STATISTICS
1979 Ford Cortina mkv
Engine 2294cc/V6/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 108bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 130lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 108mph
0-60mph 10.5sec
Consumption 23mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Though better protected than earlier incarnations, the MkV is still vulnerable to rot, and will have suffered if not well cared for. Check all bodywork for signs of rust, especially around the wheel arches and wings. Replacements in good condition will be affordable, but difficult to find. Be wary of cars that have recently been re-sprayed, they may be covering sub-standard repairs that will only begin to show when its too late. Take a small magnet with you when viewing to check suspected areas for signs of filler.
Lift the screen rubbers and inspect the metal below. If there is any sign of rot, avoid the car. If water has got in it will gradually be eating away the bulkhead, which will be prohibitively expensive to put right and potentially dangerous
if undetected.
ENGINE
Engine options fall into two types; Kent and Pinto. The smaller units were Kent engines, and should be good for around 100,000 miles or so. Anything more than this and you should be expecting a rebuild.
Check for any knocking noises, but don’t be too concerned by rattly tappets. Look for blue smoke under hard acceleration, burning oil is a sign of excessive engine wear.
Pinto engines, first used in the MkIII, require a cambelt change every 30,000 miles, so make sure this is documented. Regular oil changes are also
a must, so make sure the history is well documented and if possible, comprehensive.
2.3-litre Cologne V6s are the most durable of the bunch, and should outlast the car providing it is well cared for.
RUNNING GEAR
Suspension components are relatively cheap and easy to fix, but still carry out all the usual checks. Push down on each corner of the car, listening for any clunking or unusual noises. Check that the car sits at the same height on each corner. Sloppy handling and a shimmy from the rear are often signs of worn suspension bushes. Poly replacements will be a huge improvement, making the car much more predictable in the corners.
Four-speed gearboxes are very well put together and will likely cause you no real problems, but still check for the usual signs of wear and tear. Make sure it doesn’t jump out of gear, and that it is a smooth change with no strange noises or vibrations.
Some cars had five-speed Sierra boxes fitted; if this is the case make sure that the work is carried out to a high standard.
INTERIOR
Lift the carpets to inspect the floor pan, especially in the foot wells and seatbelt mounts. Foot wells are prone to rust, particularly in cars where the scuttle is also compromised. Lift the carpet in the boot and check for signs of rust and poorly welded patches. Take a good look at the sunroof, too. They leak in a variety of places, and any rot will likely be the tip of the iceberg.
OUR VERDICT
Brought in as an update to the Cortina MkIV, the Cortina 80, or MkV as it would become known, was produced at Ford’s assembly plant in Dagenham. A £30million facelift of its predecessor, the MkV – built for just three years between 1979 and 1982 – incorporated a number of improvements over the older design including larger indicators, greater glass area and revised rear lights.
There were also advances in aerodynamics, the Mk V getting a flatter, more streamlined roof, and wider front grille. Electronic ignition was added to top spec models, giving the 2.3-litre V6 variant a further 8bhp over the outgoing model. For the first two years the Cortina would become the best selling car in Britain, before eventually giving way to the Ford Escort in 1982.
More robust than previous models, the MkV is easier to maintain and much more affordable to purchase. Visibility and drivability are a vast improvement on the outgoing model.
There are few budget classics where your money will go quite as far as with a Cortina MkV. They’re getting thin on the ground these days, especially in good condition. Remarkably, this hasn’t affected values in the slightest; they’re still cheap as chips. Hold out for the top spec 2.3-litre Ghia model, and only part with your cash for a top rate example. You should be able to pick up a nice car for £1500, but don’t pay more than £2500. Most were consigned to the scrap heap many years ago, however cosseted examples are still available. There aren’t many more affordable routes to classic car ownership, and its rarity ensures you’ll cut a dash at any of the summer classic shows.
FORD CORTINA MK1 REVIEW
It was the beginning of a famous line, but what is it like now?
Huge numbers of families and junior executives may have aspired to own the new Cortina back in 1962, but that was more than 50 years ago. The good news is that the MkI is a reliable and entertaining classic saloon thanks to Ford’s dedication to making the Cortina as modern as possible.
The standard cars aren’t terribly quick – the 1200 in particular feels underpowered – so you’ll probably find the 1500 more useful on a daily basis. What the engines do offer are smoothness and lively responses, which means that if you want to take long trips behind that spindly three-spoke steering wheel you’ll be able to keep up with modern traffic.
A slick gearchange allows you to row the Cortina along nicely and make the most of the fairly limited power on offer (just 60bhp in 1500 form). The rest of the controls are nicely weighted, too, and while the steering isn’t a paragon of accuracy – compared to rack and pinion systems anyway – it doesn’t affect your enjoyment. In fact, the Ford rides and handles remarkably well given the relatively low-tech underpinnings. Stopping power is adequate, even on early models with their all-drum set-up. Later front discs add extra bite and confidence,
The positives continue on the inside, too. There’s plenty of space for passengers, while the driver benefits from a good driving position with all the major controls perfectly placed. A dearth of standard equipment can make for a slightly austere feel, but it’s no worse than any other comparable car of the period. Facelifted versions added the innovative ‘Airflow’ fresh air ventilation system that was a real selling point – no, really!
A further plus is the roomy boot, making the Cortina perfect for that family touring holiday – it’s easy to see why so many buyers couldn’t wait to get their hands on one when it was new.
VITAL STATISTICS
Ford Cortina 1500
Engine 1498cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 60bhp@4600rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 82lb ft@2300rpm
Top speed 85mph
0-60mph 21sec
Consumption 32mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The MkI’s bodyshell contains a host of rust traps, so be cautious when examining a potential purchase. Obvious areas include the front wings – both inner and outer, especially around the headlights – and the sills. Wheelarches and valances also suffer and take a close look at the door and windscreen pillars. Check carefully for a rotten bulkhead above the pedals, and corroded rear panels where the bumper irons attach. Door bottoms and edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Watch for bubbling around the chrome styling strips on ‘Super’ models and the ‘Di-Noc’ trim on estates, as rust can be festering away underneath.
Look for rot in the chassis legs and outriggers, the jacking points, the floor panels, and spare wheel well.
A particular area to check is where the chassis passes over the rear axle, and the rear legs on estate models. The petrol tank rusts merrily – the top of the tank forms part of the boot floor so check for damage caused by heavy loads. Replacement body panels are available but quality can vary so speak to the club for advice.
ENGINE
A combination of simplicity and plenty of space under the bonnet means major engine work isn’t a chore, so it’s a case of watching for excessive blue exhaust smoke and rumbles/knocks that signify an impending re-build. Clattery valve gear and timing chains are common though easy to sort, as are oil or coolant leaks. The ‘Kent’ units are fundamentally strong and fitting new cylinder liners can rescue a badly worn one, but secondhand engines are relatively cheap and plentiful. A fair few have had the underpowered base 1200cc unit replaced by 1500s – it’s not a problem, as long as you’re aware of what you’re buying.
ELECTRICS
While some trim parts are scarce – damaged centre consoles on GTs are a particular problem – Aldridge Trimming can supply new door cards and headlinings. Extensive re-trimming will come at a price, so avoid anything too neglected. Apart from aged or bodged wiring there are few electrical problems, but wiper motors can be a weak point.
RUNNING GEAR
The all-synchromesh four-speed manual gearbox (column shift, wand-type lever, or remote shifter depending on age and model) is durable, but listen out for the whine of worn layshaft bearings in lower gears. Jumping out of gear is common and will mean a re-build or replacement is on the cards, while a buzzing gearlever is more of an annoyance and often caused by worn linkage bushes. The Borg Warner 35 automatic arrived in late 1963 and should be smooth and quiet in operation.
BRAKES
Play in the steering box or worn joints will lead to vague steering, while stiffness is likely to be caused by seized top strut bearings. The ball race within the rubber mount wears quickly, too, so check for play. There’s little else to worry about other than sagging rear leaf springs, noisy rear wheel bearings – these are fiddly to fix – and neglected braking systems. The latter is easy to refurbish, though, whether the early all-drum or disc/drum set-up of later models. It’s also sensible to check for rot around the spring hangers and in the front strut towers – neither is difficult to fix, but costs can escalate if the rust has been allowed to spread.
INTERIOR
Sumptous interior boasted soft fabric and acres of space
OUR VERDICT
Sharp styling and refreshing simplicity are key to the Cortina’s appeal. As a starter classic, it is hard to resist, being spacious, practical, and pleasant to drive. It’s DIY-friendly, too, with good parts availability, but be wary of rotten examples that require extensive restoration.
1968 FORD CORTINA MK2 REVIEW
The MkII Cortina carried on the good work of the MkI before it.
MkII Cortinas were made for four years, but still clocked up more than a million sales
Unveiled in 1966, the MkII Cortina’s well-proportioned and boxy bodywork helped to spearhead the move towards less curvaceous styling at the tail end of the 1960s. Reliability was assured too, as the MkII used much of the old MkI’s oily bits, with appreciative customers offered a multitude of different trim and engine options. From 1297cc to 1599cc units and somewhat austere saloons and estates, through to plusher and sportier versions, there was a model to suit every taste and budget.
VITAL STATISTICS
1968 Cortina 1600E
Engine 1599cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 71bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 91lb ft@2500rpm
Top speed 88mph
0-60mph 13sec
Consumption 24mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Condition of the bulkhead and A-posts is paramount, as both are complex and expensive to fix. Check them carefully, along with other hidden rot spots including the strut tops, sills, spare wheel well and opposite void, boot floor and floor pan. The jacking points can also dissolve, as can the main members above the rear axle, along with the rear spring and shock absorber mountings.
Visible rust is most likely in the area around the headlamps, front bumper supports, front edge of the bonnet, front wings, rear arches and both front and rear valances.
Also check the B-posts and closing panels for the rear doors. New-old stock panels do occasionally surface, but a good selection of remanufactured panels and repair sections is also available from companies such as Ex-Pressed Steel Panels (01535 632721, www.steelpanels.co.uk).
ENGINE
The first signs of trouble from a Kent engine will be noisy valve gear, usually down to worn rockers, cam followers and ultimately the camshaft itself. If the extent of the wear has spread to the latter, then a top-end rebuild is the only remedy, although the camshaft itself is housed within the block.
Worn timing chains also give trouble – listen for a rattling noise emanating from the front of the engine – but compared to these potential problems, it’s worn rings and bores that will cost the most money to fix. Fumes from the filler cap and blue smoke from the exhaust should give the game away, meaning a bottom-end rebuild is required.
Worn synchromesh is the first sign of trouble on manual gearboxes, along with it jumping out of top gear. Listen for droning or whining differentials as they don’t like high mileages – after 100,000 miles they’ll be in need of a rebuild.
RUNNING GEAR
Suspension can get saggy, especially the rear, but all the basic components are either available new or can be refurbished relatively easily. Rear hub bearings are a tricky to replace, requiring 1200lb of pressure to press them out and the same to get the new ones in. So make sure there’s no play there by jacking up the rear of the car and rocking the top and bottom of each wheel to see if there is any movement.
All MkIIs were fitted with a steering box, which is not as precise as a rack-and-pinion setup, so expect up to an inch of movement at the steering wheel before the road wheels join in. However, the steering box can be rebuilt if there’s too much play or tight spots. An extremely vague steering response can often be attributed to worn inner track rod arms, as the ends wear prematurely. Replacements are becoming difficult to find, so check carefully when viewing a prospective purchase.
Poor rear brakes can often be attributed to rear adjuster cogs failing, in turn meaning that the auto-adjust doesn’t work. New discs and pads are available, but any pulling to the side under braking points to a binding caliper.
INTERIOR
Decent interior trim is extremely difficult to find, so don’t underestimate the task of bringing a tired interior up to scratch. Seat frames can break and both trim panels and carpet sets often get damaged over the years, so bear all these potential bargaining points in mind.
OUR VERDICT
Everything that attracted 1960s buyers still holds true today. Crisp styling, stout engines, smooth gearboxes and perky handling are the order of the day, regardless of model, while almost any mechanical malady you’re likely to encounter can be addressed relatively easily and cheaply. Bodywork issues are a different matter however, so don’t necessarily dismiss cars with good bodies but rough and ready running gear.
FORD CORTINA MK3 REVIEW
Ford’s 1970s fleet favourite makes an excellent family classic...
Early cars greeted the driver with a fabulous angled dashboard, coupled with sunken gauges and fake wood on the top models. Later cars had a squarer dash inspired by the Granada, which would also feature in the Cortina MkIV. A MkIII will never set the world on fire in terms of how it drives, yet the almost American trait of leaning into corners can be fun if you know where the limits are. The Transatlantic feel is further perpuated by the soft suspension, which can start to feel disconcertingly floaty over rough surfaces, especially if past its best. 1.3-litre cars feel sluggish on the road – with a 0-60 time of about 20 seconds – but the overhead-cam-engined models feel more urgent and the two-litre Pinto can sprint to 60mph in about 11 seconds if required. Brakes are well-specced for the models.
When you’ve finished stamping on all the pedals, the MkIII is a sensible family classic that will also give a lot of fun. Just make sure you have Bowie on the eight-track. It will make you love it even more.
VITAL STATISTICS
FORD CORTINA MKIII 2000GXL
Engine 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 98bhp@5200rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 111lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 100mph
0-60mph 11sec
Consumption 25mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
This is a mass market car of the 1970s so, predictably, rust is likely to be a major issue. Check front and rear valances, sills, door bottoms and jacking points first – these are the main enemies of Cortina longevity. Front wings go around their leading corners and towards the trailing edges. So, check this, the lower part of the screen pillars and the bulkhead underneath. Also investigate the lower rear corners, as rust from here will easily spread to the adjacent sill area. Door pillar bases, the fuel filler neck and boot floor are other common rot traps, as are the rear wheelarches, where double-skinning means water can pool. Also around this area, the bottoms of the rear wings can totally disintegrate due to road grot. Because many Cortinas will have led hard lives, it makes sense to check everywhere. If there’s metal, there’s potential for nasties.
The estate shell, roof, and rear panels are shared with the MkIV and MkV estates, so any of these panels advertised for the later cars will fit. The post-1975 dashboard is also common to the fourth and fifth generation models.
ENGINE
Kent engines (1.3) are known for noisy tappets. They can also fume from under the filler cap due to piston/ring wear and if you hear an intermittent clacking from the engine, it means the cam followers are wearing out, which will eventually wreck the camshaft itself. This is an engine-out job to put right.
Pinto-engined cars (1.6 and 2.0) will be easiest to source but will need most attention upon inspection. Oil must be changed every 5000 miles; failure to do so can lead to a clogged oil spray bar, oil starvation, and eventually rapid camshaft wear.
Pinto timing belts must be renewed at 30,000 miles. The best all-round bet is probably the 2.0, combining modern performance with relatively reasonable economy and an enviable parts supply. On all engines, look for signs of blue exhaust smoke under acceleration, denoting a worn-out engine that will either need rebuilding or replacing.
ELECTRICS
Many of these cars will have been modified by previous owners, to varying levels of competence. If that’s the case, make sure everything has been done properly. Take a close look at the electrics in particular.
RUNNING GEAR
Four-speed boxes are generally reliable, although as high mileages are racked up, synchromesh will start to disappear. Jumping out of top gear under acceleration can also happen. Many have fitted five-speed boxes from Sierras for relaxed cruising.
INTERIOR
There are too many trim variations and model year changes to go into in depth with this guide, but make sure everything is there and in good order as much model-specific trim is unavailable and will be hard to replicate.
OUR VERDICT
You either want to feel eight years old again or you want to be Gene Hunt. The Ford Cortina MkIII will do both, and turn heads at the same time. This is one of those cars that just seems to perfectly encapsulate the year in which it was born, with flamboyant colour schemes, interiors that often flout the boundaries of taste and a pervading sense that the quality is not all it could be. This fashion victim status does make Cortina MkIIIs extremely funky now, especially for a generation discovering old re-runs of The Sweeney via Life on Mars. Away from the glitterball persona, a nice third generation Cortina will draw the crowds far more effectively than any Porsche, for people actually remember them when they were common. Every fill-up, meal stop, and shopping trip becomes a chance to meet new people, who will regale you with tales of whenlong-lost friends used to own one. A once-common classic like a Cortina is an easy way to make new friends – but beware if you’re introvert.
The Ford Cortina MkIII is arguably the original rep-mobile. The ‘Coke bottle’ side profile replaced the more angular lines of previous Cortinas, and the range expanded to replace the outgoing Corsair at the same time. During a seven-year production life, myriad models were available, from two-door saloons through estates to Crayford-modified convertibles. There was – and still is – a Cortina MkIII for everybody, although it is believed only a thousand or so now survive – a quite shocking figutre for a car that sold well over a million. Thanks to Ford standardisation, mechanical parts are still plentiful, although you’ll probably struggle a lot more finding replacement panels. The cars are cheap to run, simple to look after too and can easily be worked on at home. Just as family Fords should be.
FORD CORTINA MK4 REVIEW
Classic Ford Cortina Review
By the time Ford launched the Cortina MKIV in autumn 1976 Britain was used to mid-range Fords being market leaders. Ford thus wisely played it safe; choosing to reskin the MK3 rather than create a car from scratch. The car had been previewed some months earlier by Ford of Germany’s Taunus, which was identical to the Cortina in almost every way. A popular fleet car and the most popular new car in the UK throughout production, numbers were decimated by the contempt of familiarity and the curse of daily use, but several Ford MKIV Cortinas still survive.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine - 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power - 98bhp@5200rpm
Torque - 111lb/ft@3500rpm
Top Speed - 100mph
0-60mph – 11 seconds
Economy – 24 mpg (urban cycle)
Gearbox – 4 speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
Unless you bought an estate, the bodyshell was one aspect of Cortina MKIV that broke with the MK3 (Estates used the same shell). The sharp suit of the MKIV was ideal for the late 70s; where the MK3 was transatlantic in the extreme, the MKIV was ideal for the sales rep who wanted to break from this tradition and be individual…for about thirty seconds. It’s a mass market 1970s car, so they do rust. Check the valances, sills, doors, and jacking points first – the enemies of Cortina longevity. The fuel filler neck, scuttle, and boot floor are other common rot traps, but as many Cortinas will have had a hard life in past years as a family or fleet car it makes sense to check everywhere. If there’s metal, there’s potential for nasties!
Engines
By and large, the range is the same as was proved in the MK3 – Kents and Pintos, with the addition of the German Cologne V6 in 2.3 litre form. Parts will be easy to source, as all these engines were used in other Ford products from the Fiesta and Escort to the Granada. Kent engines (1.3) are known for noisy tappets. Cologne V6s are also tappetty, but the main issue is the fibre timing gears, the teeth of which can break. Steel replacements are available and commonly fitted. The Pinto (1.6 and 2.0) is most common but also the one which needs most attention paying upon inspection. Oil must be changed every 5000 miles; failure to do so can lead to a clogged oil spray bar, oil starvation, and eventually rapid camshaft wear. Pinto timing belts must be changed at 30000 miles. Best all round bet is probably the 2.0; combining modern performance with relatively reasonable economy and an enviable parts supply.
Running Gear
Again, this was carried straight over from the MK3 – a proven drivetrain which gives few issues in service. In addition, the fact that parts were common to Cortinas III, IV, and 80 ensures that there is a healthy stock of spares for those who may need them. Four speed boxes are reliable, but many owners have fitted 5 speed boxes from Sierras in place of the original. The design of this box can leave 5th starved of oil if the level isn’t maintained – check it regularly! The differential itself poses no issues, but the casing has been known to rust. The resultant leaks can lead to the diff running dry, so keep an eye on the oil level in the diff too. Front ball joints and track rod ends can wear; check for heavy steering on the test drive. Worn void bushes on the rear trailing arms can adversely affect handling – replace with poly bushes; rubber ones have a short life span.
Interior
You get the picture by now; a late MK3 Cortina carry-over. The MKIV used the same dashboard as the 1975 MK3 facelift, so from the driver’s seat was a familiar place for those changing their company cars. Door trims and seats were similar, and whilst the interior was two inches longer than in the MK3, it retained a similar feel due to the amount of carry-over items. It’s a fleet Ford, so unsurprisingly there’s a trim level for everybody from the newest salesman on the firm (Base) to the fleet manager (Ghia). Two-doors are rare, so trim for these may be harder to source.
OUR VERDICT
Most people looking to buy a Cortina will do so out of sentiment; your brother, your dad, your granddad, your next door neighbour, or your favourite schoolteacher will have owned one. It might have been a 1.6L on the firm, or a metallic 2.3 Ghia bought as a retirement treat. Cars like this; street furniture which has long been forgotten, are bought to inspire memories and make one feel about eight years old again.
There’s more. A nice Cortina will draw the crowds far more effectively than any Porsche, for people actually remember them when they were common. Every fill-up, every meal stop, every shopping trip becomes a chance to meet new people. A once-common classic like a Cortina is the easiest way to make new friends – beware if you’re introvert!
FORD CORTINA MK5 REVIEW
The last of the line, the Cortina 80 would herald the end for one of the most popular cars in British history...
Classic Ford Cortina Review
Meet the old fleet car, same as the old one. More a facelift than a wholly new car, the Ford Cortina 80 (Or MK5 as everybody knew it) was a thorough upgrading of the previous MKIV. Whilst similar inside and out, few panels were shared – even the roof was a new, flatter panel. Designed for fleets, Ford Cortinas are reliable, roomy, sensible classics which can be enjoyed by the whole family. Families enjoyed them new, too.
Bodywork
As with the MKIV, check the door bottoms, the sills, both front and rear valance and the bulkhead. Whilst many Cortinas have led hard lives and may have become crumbly elsewhere, these are the classic rot spots for a Cortina 80. Also keep an eye on the boot floor and fuel filler area, if these have rotted out it’s bad news for the chassis, for they cover areas which were never rustproofed when new. As with the MKIV, the estate body dated back to the MK3 Cortina; panels are thus not unduly difficult to source.
Engines
Tried and tested units all; from the 1.3 Kent through Pinto to the 2.3 Cologne V6 – all however were modified to produce more power. Due to the ubiquity of these engines, parts should be simple to source in all cases. Both the Kent and Cologne are known for tappets, with fibre-tooth timing gears an additional cause for concern on the Cologne. The 1.6 and 2.0 Pintos need regular oil changes to prevent premature camshaft wear, and the timing belts need changing every 30000 miles. We recommend the 2.0 as the best compromise between economy and performance.
Running Gear
Again, this was carried straight over from the MK3 – a proven drivetrain which gives few issues in service. In addition, the fact that parts were common to Cortinas III, IV, and 80 ensures that there is a healthy stock of spares for those who may need them. Sierra 5 speed gearboxes – a common modification – need to be kept well topped up with oil; 5th gear is prone to oil starvation if forgotten. The differential casing rusts, causing leaks which can lead to a dry diff – watch the oil level there too. Heavy steering indicates worn track rod ends and ball joints, whereas sloppy handling is caused by worn void bushed on the rear trailing arms. Rubber replacements are not long lived; the poly bushes are a wiser investment.
Interior
The interior remained largely unchanged from the MKIV – and thus, unchanged from that used in the last of the MK3s. There are several models to choose from; from 2 door Base right up to Ghia S – check the trim, as whilst Cortinas are still easy to get parts for, it may be difficult to find trim in rare colours or specs. Note that there are few 2 door MKIVs or 80s left, so sourcing 2 door specific trim might not be terribly easy.
Why Should I Buy One?
There are two real reasons for buying a classic that in its day was seen as mundane. The first is nostalgia; we all know someone who had a ‘Tina and seeing one has the ability to make one feel six again. The second reason is pure sense; a car designed for daily use by family will still be perfectly capable of doing that job thirty years on; the Cortina makes an excellent daily classic for all the family. Should you be interested – and we could well understand why – be prepared for onlookers to gawp in amazement and for every stop to turn into a discussion!
Vital Statistics
Engine - 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power - 102bhp@5200rpm
Torque - 114lb/ft@3500rpm
Top Speed - 102mph
0-60mph – 10.3 seconds
Economy – 24 mpg (urban cycle)
Gearbox – 4 speed manual
FORD ESCORT MK1 REVIEW
Classic Ford Escort Mk1 Review
Launched in January 1968 as a replacement for the Anglia and using much of the same technology – MacPherson strut front suspension, a leaf-sprung live rear axle, slick-shifting four-speed all-synchromesh gearbox and pushrod four-cylinder engine – the Ford Escort was a roomier, sleeker package and available with two or four doors, as an estate or as a van. It had sharper rack and pinion steering, while Ford engineers spent considerable time eradicating Noise, Vibration and Harshness.
At launch, the first cars came in two- or four-door form, had 12in wheels, and were powered by 1098cc or 1298cc pushrod ‘Kent’ engines producing up to a whopping 57bhp. If that was too much, a 939cc version was available for some export markets.
It was clear that the nimble, balanced chassis could handle more power. Thus the Twin Cam was the first ‘interesting’ one, incorporating the Lotus-Ford Twin Cam engine used in the Elan and Lotus Cortina, built at Halewood and launched at a list price of £1162.78. Production really started in May 1968, with the quick ones coming under the remit of Ford Advanced Vehicle Operations. As well as extra power and those wide-lip front wings, AVO Escorts had radius arms parallel with the front halves of the leaf springs on the rear axle to eliminate axle tramp.
The RS1600 replaced the Twin Cam in 1970 as the hottest model in the range, using the new Ford Cosworth 16-valve BDA (Belt Drive Type A), a close relative of the chain-drive FVA F3 engine described as ‘half a DFV’. A much more aggressive device than the Lotus, it produced 120bhp in standard trim and up to 240bhp in 2-litre works form. In 1972, the block material was changed to alloy, allowing up to 1975cc. From 1970, the Mexico, produced like the RS1600 in the new AVO factory at Aveley in Essex, was essentially an RS1600 with an 86bhp 1600GT pushrod engine.
The Mexico capitalised on Ford’s win on the 16,000- mile London-Mexico rally with a team of Escorts powered by over-bored versions of the pushrod engine, and entered as ‘1850 GTs’. Hannu Mikkola won in FEV 1H and sister cars took third, fifth and sixth places. If the RS1600 was too frantic and expensive – and the Mexico a bit underpowered – the 1973 RS2000 was the answer. It used the larger, heavier ‘Pinto’ 2-litre in essentially the same car, for an understressed 100bhp and more torque, was German-built and with the German-type four-speed gearbox. This needed an electric fan, as it no longer had room for a mechanical one.
In 1975, the Mk1 was replaced by ‘Brenda’, as the Mk2 was termed during development. Under the square-rigged reskin, the structure and mechanicals were the same, except that the rear suspension had changed to place the rear dampers more vertically – in fact, the last Mk1s had been built on this updated floorpan. Estates (now weirdly popular among the drag race fraternity) and vans kept the Mk1 sheet metal from the door pillars back. Although there was the specialised BDA-powered RS1800, mostly made to turn into rally cars, the RS2000 would not return until 1976. RS Mexicos and 1600 Sports got a 1593cc version of the Pinto instead of the 1599cc ‘Kent’, while a base 1098cc Popular made an appearance. The model range was phased out in July 1980, when the rear-drive Escort was replaced by the front-drive Mk3. A nation of motorsport enthusiasts gnashed its collective teeth.
FORD ESCORT RS1600 REVIEW
Ford Escort RS1600 Review
It was the Ford Escort that really put Ford on the rallying map, proving capable of winning World Championship events from 1968, when the Twin Cam model was the works frontline rallycar, right through to 1981 when Ari Vatanen became World Rally Champion driving an Escort RS. In 1970 the Ford Twin Cam engine was replaced by a Cosworth BDA 16-valve unit to create the definitive Escort rally car, the RS1600, though the engine was, in fact, homologated at 1,601cc to enable future enlargement up to the 2-litre class capacity limit. The first full 2-litre engines were homologated in 1972 and in works trim produced 235-240bhp. In this ultimate form the Escort RS1600 proved good enough to win the RAC Rally three times on the trot between 1972 and 1974, as well as a host of other World Championship events.
FORD ESCORT RS2000 REVIEW
Ford Escort RS2000 Review
Introduced in June 1973, the Ford Escort RS2000 was very similar to the rest of the Escort range, and was billed to be a half-way house between the extreme RS1600 and the reliable Mexico.
It used the same body shell as the RS1600 and Mexico, but had a different engine. It was a Ford 2 litre Pinto unit and developed 100bhp, 2 more bhp than it did in the Cortina. The engine was not designed to fit into the Escort, so to make it suitable Ford had to remove the engine driver cooling fan and replace it with a thermostatically controlled one.
The car wasn’t launched in Britain until October 1973 as the first 2000 built were reserved for the European market.
Escorts have a great rallying tradition and 5000 RS2000’s were built in order for Ford to achieve homologation rules for Group 1 rallying. The amount of Escort RS2000s built is up for dispute however, as Ford only made 3500 RS2000’s in Britain. Ford has said they built the remaining cars required for homologation in Germany but there is very little evidence for this.
One RS2000 estate was built after a Mexico estate was converted. The mark 1 RS2000 stopped being built in 1974, the same time the rest of the MK1 Escorts were discontinued.
The RS2000 came back in 1976 and was based on the new Mark 2 Escort. It used a new 2 litre engine powering the rear wheels, via a gearbox situated near the back for better weight distribution. The second generation RS2000 became infamous for its ‘droop snoot’ nose. This mark 2 RS2000 stopped production in 1978.
The RS2000 Ford Escort was not seen again until 1991 and was radically different from any other RS2000 that had been before. This new RS2000 was based on the mark 5 escort, and was front wheel drive. No Escort RS2000 had been front wheel drive before this one, and was done so to decrease costs whilst still offering a fast car.
Hardcore fans may have not been convinced at first, but with a 130mph top speed the new RS2000 certainly had the right credentials. The 2 litre engine lifted out of the Sierra produced 150 bhp thanks to electronic fuel injection and a Ford engine management system. It was visibly different from more mundane Escort models of the time thanks to bonnet bumps and Tecno alloy wheels.
A 4x4 system was offered in 1994, splitting the 150 bhp between all four wheels. 40% went to the front and 60% went to the rear. Although this may seem like a good idea, real world figures took a hit as the 0-60 mph time went from 8.3 to 9.1 seconds and fuel consumption increased. The added weight of the four wheel drive system was blamed for the decrease in performance and economy.
December 1996 saw the RS2000 discontinued, as Ford pressed on with development for the Escorts replacement, the Focus.
Written by Murray Scullion
FORD FIESTA MK1 REVIEW
Ford was well aware that the market for small, cheap hatchbacks was growing rapidly and in 1976 it announced the arrival of the front-wheel drive Fiesta. Simplicity was the watchword with a lightweight steel monocoque body and a range of peppy, economical engines. A huge number rolled off the German, Spanish, and Dagenham production lines.
It’s this simple approach that makes the Fiesta so appealing today and it is easy to see why so many survive, albeit in widely varying condition. The fact that there is a trim level and engine option to suit everyone is a bonus too – and if it was sportiness you wanted there was always the lively XR2. There were some impressive special editions as well, the two-tone ‘Sandpiper’ being particularly lovely.
XR2s aside, the Fiesta isn’t about performance or pin-sharp handling. But what it does do extremely well is provide roomy and practical transport and an impressively tidy driving experience. Unless you rarely venture out of town, the smallest engines do feel a little underpowered, but the 1.3-litre unit is more than capable of pushing the Fiesta along in modern traffic. Leave the urban sprawl and you’ll notice that there’s a degree of entertainment to be had too.
The steering is light and direct and the combination of a composed ride and secure handling means tackling a twisty road is a pleasure. The comfortable cabin is a real plus too, and while it might be simple, everything is within easy reach and the driving position is spot-on.
Run-of-the-mill model prices have changed little in recent times. Those at the very bottom of the scale show little sign of increasing and with the cost of re-commissioning likely to exceed the car’s value, these are probably best considered as parts donors only. Avoid any cars that have been modified or tampered with by DIYers and boy racers. The condition can vary widely and there are a few optimistic vendors out there hoping to cash-in on the Fiesta’s classic status, but you should be wary of paying over the odds. The best advice is to spend as much as you can afford on a cherished, rust-free example benefitting from everything the Fiesta has to offer without the need for costly restoration.
VITAL STATISTICS
Ford Fiesta MKI
Engine 1598cc/4-cyl/OHV/Bosch injection
Power (bhp@rpm) 84bhp@5500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 91lb ft@2800rpm
Top speed 106mph
0-60mph 9.4sec
Consumption 32mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Rust can break out just about anywhere on the Fiesta and you’ll need to pay close attention to the tops of the front wings, the wheel arches, sills, and front valance. All of the main panels are susceptible to rot, so having a magnet handy will help you avoid being landed with someone else’s previous bodgery. Few examples will have escaped the need for replacement front suspension turrets, so be extra vigilant here and around the inner wings. Replacement panels are getting scarce so a hunt for decent second-hand parts will be needed.
A thorough check of the underside is advisable as boot floors and inner sills can rot through. Lift up carpets and mats to ensure water leaks haven’t accelerated the process. Take a good look around the front and rear suspension mountings as well as corrosion here has caused many a Fiesta to fall foul of the MoT tester.
It is under the bonnet where the simplicity of the Fiesta really pays off, and while there are some checks to be done, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more DIY-friendly car. The Kent and Valencia engines ranged in size from the 957cc unit up to the punchy 1.6-litre mill fitted to the XR2. General wear and tear is the main thing to look for, including noisy valvegear, rattling timing chains, and exhaust smoke caused by worn valve guides. Furred-up cooling systems eventually lead to headgasket failure so look for signs of recent overheating, and check for niggling oil leaks, though these are easy to cure. A blocked crankcase breather system can suck fumes in the cabin, so its worth checking here first before assuming it is something more serious.
ENGINE
Carburettor engines were fitted with Solex units when new, but these were notorious for starting problems and many owners have replaced them with Webers. So a non-standard carburettor isn’t necessarily a warning to look for other modifications! Poor starting may also be cured relatively easily by a swap from the original specification.
Bosch mechanical fuel injection was a feature of the six-cylinder 220SE and 300SE/SEL models. It’s pretty reliable but is not really a DIY job when it goes wrong. Getting it fixed can often prove very expensive. Some recommend retarding the ignition timing on injected engines as a safety measure now that there’s no more high-octane leaded petrol.
Bosch mechanical fuel injection was a feature of the six-cylinder 220SE and 300SE/SEL models. It’s pretty reliable but is not really a DIY job when it goes wrong. Getting it fixed can often prove very expensive. Some recommend retarding the ignition timing on injected engines as a safety measure now that there’s no more high-octane leaded petrol.
RUNNING GEAR
Four-speed manual gearboxes were very robust, so it is really just a case of looking out for tired synchromesh and excessive noise caused by worn pinion shaft bearings. An obstructive gearshift is often due to worn gear linkages or a clutch in need of replacement, but both are cheap to fix. Worn differential bearings will cause a noticeable whine on the test drive, but they can soldier on for many miles without needing replacement if you can put up with the noise.
BRAKES
The suspension set-up is simple and uses MacPherson struts at the front. Sagging springs and dampers and worn bushes are likely ailments, but bringing them up to scratch isn’t costly. Rear suspension arm rubbers wear, but it isn’t a difficult fix. The disc/drum brakes aren’t likely to be stretched by the performance, so regular maintenance should have kept things working well. Rear brakes can seize on lightly-used cars, an overhaul is straightforward and cheap. Check, too, for play in the rack-and-pinion steering and noisy wheel bearings. Lastly, the Pepperpot alloys fitted to XR2 models are desirable on all models. But the XR2’s standard-issue plastic wheeltrims are all but extinct, so if you find them, cherish them!
INTERIOR
Interior trim is getting hard to source now, so don’t underestimate the cost needed to bring a tatty cabin up to scratch. Lower trim levels were incredibly basic on the early models, even down to plastic seats, and are best avoided. A smattering
of comfort features enhanced GL models, but
it’s the Ghia that provides the most comfortable cabin. Velour seats, four-spoke steering wheel,
rev counter, and faux-woodgrain trim were all standard. The centre consoles fitted to these higher-spec models can vibrate greatly, upsetting modern CD players, so a Ford-branded cassette deck is a bonus, or re-install original equipment when you find it for sale. Specialist re-trimmers can tackle worn seats and carpets, but it’s easier and cheaper to choose a car with a complete and original interior.
OUR VERDICT
Whether it is a first classic that you’re after, or a simple runaround with a bit of character the Fiesta will almost certainly fit the bill. There are plenty to choose from and prices remain accessible for those on a budget. A bit of care is needed when buying – there are plenty of bangers in the classifieds that have barely yards left in them before the crusher beckons – but be prepared to look at plenty of cars and this popular hatch will prove a reliable companion.
Ford was well aware that the market for small, cheap hatchbacks was growing rapidly and in 1976 it announced the arrival of the front-wheel drive Fiesta. Simplicity was the watchword with a lightweight steel monocoque body and a range of peppy, economical engines. A huge number rolled off the German, Spanish, and Dagenham production lines.
It’s this simple approach that makes the Fiesta so appealing today and it is easy to see why so many survive, albeit in widely varying condition. The fact that there is a trim level and engine option to suit everyone is a bonus too – and if it was sportiness you wanted there was always the lively XR2. There were some impressive special editions as well, the two-tone ‘Sandpiper’ being particularly lovely.
Classic Ford Fiesta Review
Classic Ford Fiesta Review
In the early Seventies Ford knew the winds of change in the car scene were going to affect it. The Mini and Fiat 500 had proved small cars could be popular, and now other manufacturers were joining in on the action, thanks to the Fiat 127 and Renault 5. However, it took five years before the Tom Tjaarda-penned creation reached UK dealerships (some time after left-hand drive markets), by which time Vauxhall, Volkswagen, Chrysler and Austin were already muscling in on the small car turf.
Mk1.
To start with, engines ranged from 1.0-litre to 1.6. It wasn’t until the 1.3-litre "crossflow" Supersport appeared in 1980 that enthusiastic drivers got the car they wanted. A year later, the XR2 appeared using a 1.6-litre version of the unit, which meant brisk performance (for the time). 105mph top speed a 0-60mph sprint of sub-10 seconds was achievable thanks to 83bhp. According to Autocar’s road test of the time: ‘Get it whizzing along country lanes, or grabbing the few overtaking opportunities that may exist in urban traffic, and one begins to wonder what might beat this responsive little car from A to B.’
Mk 2.
The Mk2 Fiesta appeared in 1982, and revisions focused on the styling. Engines were altered, too – not only did a diesel enter the range but the old 1.3-litre unit was replaced with a similarly sized CVH powerplant. The 1.0-litre and 1.2-litre were carried over from the previous series.
The XR2 now had an Escort XR3-derived 1.6-litre engine, which meant 96bhp and 0-60mph in 9.5 seconds. You also got a rather extravagant bodykit, but the steering garnered praise from Autosport: "The neat little steering wheel allows ultra-rapid response on the driver’s part, and there is almost a touch of the go-kart about its reactions."
In 1986 the XR2 was improved with a new cylinder head and carburettor.
Mk3.
By 1989 the old Fiesta design was looking creaky in response to ever-stronger competition from Peugeot, Fiat, Vauxhall and Japanese companies. For the first time a five-door variant was offered, but engines mainly stayed the same as the Mk2. However, a 1.8-litre version was now available.
The big news, however, was that the Fiesta was now open for sportiness in a way that had been avoided in previous versions. The fuel-injected XR2i appeared in 1989, but by 1992 it had 16 valves and a new era of engines – Zetec.
The Eighties penchant for turbocharging had passed the Fiesta by, and it wasn’t until 1990 that Ford’s city car got boosted. It used the same CVH engine as the 1989 XR2i, now fed by fuel injection, and yielded a 133mph top speed, 0-60mph dash of 7.9 seconds. The RS Turbo was famed for its tricky to master handling, as James May – then working for Autocar – explained: "The sudden switch from compliance to contrariness pretty much sums up the RS Turbo’s handling: driving a the limit means staying just the right side of a very fine line and transgressing it at your peril. But without wishing to seem too kinky, it’s a pleasurable sort of pain."
The RS Turbo was replaced with the RS1800 in 1992, which used a 1.8-litre Zetec engine that was good for 130bhp. The XR2i name died in 1994 as insurance costs rained on its parade. A new era, under the Si nomenclature, beckoned.
Mk4
While broadly similar to the Mk3, 1995’s Mk4 featured revised underpinnings, which helped it find favour with British buyers. Zetec engines were used throughout the range, although the Kent 1.3-litre engine still persisted in lower-spec cars. The sportiest Fiesta was now known as the Zetec. Handling was highly regarded. The well-regarded Puma used Fiesta underpinnings.
Mk5 (kind of)
By 1999 the Fiesta’s architecture was ten years old, but nips and tucks kept it competitive, and still buyers flocked to it. The highest-spec engine was now the Zetec S, which allowed for 118mph from its 101bhp, 1.6-litre engine. This version lasted until 2002, when the Fiesta was comprehensively refreshed.