Reviews — Classic Cars For Sale

Cortina

FORD CORTINA MK V REVIEW

The last of the line, the Cortina 80 would herald the end for one of the most popular cars in British history...

ford_cortina_mk5_1.jpg

The Cortina was never a sports car, but it can still be a real hoot to drive. The 2.3-litre V6 is comfortably the best performer, being the largest capacity and highest power output of all Cortinas. The four-speed manual gearbox helps to make things feel quite sporty, urgently pulling through the gears when given enough encouragement. 

Still a big car, it won’t appreciate being flung into corners, but suspension and brakes are both up to the task of relatively enthusiastic driving. Being particularly roomy inside, the MkV makes a perfect long distance tourer, and will be much more reliable than many older classics of similar type. A 0-60 time of only 10.5 seconds is ample to keep up with most modern traffic, and the top speed of 108mph is more than you would ever need on public roads. 1.6-litre and 2-litre cars are functional and will be suitable for most people, but the 1.3-litre version will leave you wanting much more. 


VITAL STATISTICS

1979 Ford Cortina mkv

Engine                                    2294cc/V6/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  108bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 130lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                108mph     

0-60mph                                  10.5sec

Consumption                           23mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Though better protected than earlier incarnations, the MkV is still vulnerable to rot, and will have suffered if not well cared for. Check all bodywork for signs of rust, especially around the wheel arches and wings. Replacements in good condition will be affordable, but difficult to find. Be wary of cars that have recently been re-sprayed, they may be covering sub-standard repairs that will only begin to show when its too late. Take a small magnet with you when viewing to check suspected areas for signs of filler.

Lift the screen rubbers and inspect the metal below. If there is any sign of rot, avoid the car. If water has got in it will gradually be eating away the bulkhead, which will be prohibitively expensive to put right and potentially dangerous
if undetected. 

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ENGINE

Engine options fall into two types; Kent and Pinto. The smaller units were Kent engines, and should be good for around 100,000 miles or so. Anything more than this and you should be expecting a rebuild. 

Check for any knocking noises, but don’t be too concerned by rattly tappets. Look for blue smoke under hard acceleration, burning oil is a sign of excessive engine wear. 

Pinto engines, first used in the MkIII, require a cambelt change every 30,000 miles, so make sure this is documented. Regular oil changes are also
a must, so make sure the history is well documented and if possible, comprehensive. 

2.3-litre Cologne V6s are the most durable of the bunch, and should outlast the car providing it is well cared for. 

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RUNNING GEAR

Suspension components are relatively cheap and easy to fix, but still carry out all the usual checks. Push down on each corner of the car, listening for any clunking or unusual noises. Check that the car sits at the same height on each corner. Sloppy handling and a shimmy from the rear are often signs of worn suspension bushes. Poly replacements will be a huge improvement, making the car much more predictable in the corners.

Four-speed gearboxes are very well put together and will likely cause you no real problems, but still check for the usual signs of wear and tear. Make sure it doesn’t jump out of gear, and that it is a smooth change with no strange noises or vibrations. 

Some cars had five-speed Sierra boxes fitted; if this is the case make sure that the work is carried out to a high standard.

 

INTERIOR

Lift the carpets to inspect the floor pan, especially in the foot wells and seatbelt mounts. Foot wells are prone to rust, particularly in cars where the scuttle is also compromised. Lift the carpet in the boot and check for signs of rust and poorly welded patches. Take a good look at the sunroof, too. They leak in a variety of places, and any rot will likely be the tip of the iceberg.

ford_cortina_mk5_4.jpg

OUR VERDICT

Brought in as an update to the Cortina MkIV, the Cortina 80, or MkV as it would become known, was produced at Ford’s assembly plant in Dagenham. A £30million facelift of its predecessor, the MkV – built for just three years between 1979 and 1982 – incorporated a number of improvements over the older design including larger indicators, greater glass area and revised rear lights. 

There were also advances in aerodynamics, the Mk V getting a flatter, more streamlined roof, and wider front grille. Electronic ignition was added to top spec models, giving the 2.3-litre V6 variant a further 8bhp over the outgoing model. For the first two years the Cortina would become the best selling car in Britain, before eventually giving way to the Ford Escort in 1982.

More robust than previous models, the MkV is easier to maintain and much more affordable to purchase. Visibility and drivability are a vast improvement on the outgoing model.

There are few budget classics where your money will go quite as far as with a Cortina MkV. They’re getting thin on the ground these days, especially in good condition. Remarkably, this hasn’t affected values in the slightest; they’re still cheap as chips. Hold out for the top spec 2.3-litre Ghia model, and only part with your cash for a top rate example. You should be able to pick up a nice car for £1500, but don’t pay more than £2500. Most were consigned to the scrap heap many years ago, however cosseted examples are still available. There aren’t many more affordable routes to classic car ownership, and its rarity ensures you’ll cut a dash at any of the summer classic shows.

FORD CORTINA MK1 REVIEW

It was the beginning of a famous line, but what is it like now?

Huge numbers of families and junior executives may have aspired to own the new Cortina back in 1962, but that was more than 50 years ago. The good news is that the MkI is a reliable and entertaining classic saloon thanks to Ford’s dedication to making the Cortina as modern as possible. 

The standard cars aren’t terribly quick – the 1200 in particular feels underpowered – so you’ll probably find the 1500 more useful on a daily basis. What the engines do offer are smoothness and lively responses, which means that if you want to take long trips behind that spindly three-spoke steering wheel you’ll be able to keep up with modern traffic. 

A slick gearchange allows you to row the Cortina along nicely and make the most of the fairly limited power on offer (just 60bhp in 1500 form). The rest of the controls are nicely weighted, too, and while the steering isn’t a paragon of accuracy – compared to rack and pinion systems anyway – it doesn’t affect your enjoyment. In fact, the Ford rides and handles remarkably well given the relatively low-tech underpinnings. Stopping power is adequate, even on early models with their all-drum set-up. Later front discs add extra bite and confidence, 

The positives continue on the inside, too. There’s plenty of space for passengers, while the driver benefits from a good driving position with all the major controls perfectly placed. A dearth of standard equipment can make for a slightly austere feel, but it’s no worse than any other comparable car of the period. Facelifted versions added the innovative ‘Airflow’ fresh air ventilation system that was a real selling point – no, really!

A further plus is the roomy boot, making the Cortina perfect for that family touring holiday – it’s easy to see why so many buyers couldn’t wait to get their hands on one when it was new. 


VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Cortina 1500

Engine                                    1498cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  60bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 82lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed                                85mph

0-60mph                                  21sec

Consumption                            32mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The MkI’s bodyshell contains a host of rust traps, so be cautious when examining a potential purchase. Obvious areas include the front wings – both inner and outer, especially around the headlights – and the sills. Wheelarches and valances also suffer and take a close look at the door and windscreen pillars. Check carefully for a rotten bulkhead above the pedals, and corroded rear panels where the bumper irons attach. Door bottoms and edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Watch for bubbling around the chrome styling strips on ‘Super’ models and the ‘Di-Noc’ trim on estates, as rust can be festering away underneath.

Look for rot in the chassis legs and outriggers, the jacking points, the floor panels, and spare wheel well. 

A particular area to check is where the chassis passes over the rear axle, and the rear legs on estate models. The petrol tank rusts merrily – the top of the tank forms part of the boot floor so check for damage caused by heavy loads. Replacement body panels are available but quality can vary so speak to the club for advice. 

ENGINE

A combination of simplicity and plenty of space under the bonnet means major engine work isn’t a chore, so it’s a case of watching for excessive blue exhaust smoke and rumbles/knocks that signify an impending re-build. Clattery valve gear and timing chains are common though easy to sort, as are oil or coolant leaks. The ‘Kent’ units are fundamentally strong and fitting new cylinder liners can rescue a badly worn one, but secondhand engines are relatively cheap and plentiful. A fair few have had the underpowered base 1200cc unit replaced by 1500s – it’s not a problem, as long as you’re aware of what you’re buying.

ELECTRICS

While some trim parts are scarce – damaged centre consoles on GTs are a particular problem – Aldridge Trimming can supply new door cards and headlinings. Extensive re-trimming will come at a price, so avoid anything too neglected. Apart from aged or bodged wiring there are few electrical problems, but wiper motors can be a weak point.

RUNNING GEAR

The all-synchromesh four-speed manual gearbox (column shift, wand-type lever, or remote shifter depending on age and model) is durable, but listen out for the whine of worn layshaft bearings in lower gears. Jumping out of gear is common and will mean a re-build or replacement is on the cards, while a buzzing gearlever is more of an annoyance and often caused by worn linkage bushes. The Borg Warner 35 automatic arrived in late 1963 and should be smooth and quiet in operation.

BRAKES

Play in the steering box or worn joints will lead to vague steering, while stiffness is likely to be caused by seized top strut bearings. The ball race within the rubber mount wears quickly, too, so check for play. There’s little else to worry about other than sagging rear leaf springs, noisy rear wheel bearings – these are fiddly to fix – and neglected braking systems. The latter is easy to refurbish, though, whether the early all-drum or disc/drum set-up of later models. It’s also sensible to check for rot around the spring hangers and in the front strut towers – neither is difficult to fix, but costs can escalate if the rust has been allowed to spread.

INTERIOR

Sumptous interior boasted soft fabric and acres of space


OUR VERDICT

Sharp styling and refreshing simplicity are key to the Cortina’s appeal. As a starter classic, it is hard to resist, being spacious, practical, and pleasant to drive. It’s DIY-friendly, too, with good parts availability, but be wary of rotten examples that require extensive restoration.

1968 FORD CORTINA MK2 REVIEW

The MkII Cortina carried on the good work of the MkI before it.

MkII Cortinas were made for four years, but still clocked up more than a million sales

MkII Cortinas were made for four years, but still clocked up more than a million sales

Unveiled in 1966, the MkII Cortina’s well-proportioned and boxy bodywork helped to spearhead the move towards less curvaceous styling at the tail end of the 1960s. Reliability was assured too, as the MkII used much of the old MkI’s oily bits, with appreciative customers offered a multitude of different trim and engine options. From 1297cc to 1599cc units and somewhat austere saloons and estates, through to plusher and sportier versions, there was a model to suit every taste and budget.


VITAL STATISTICS

1968 Cortina 1600E

Engine                                    1599cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  71bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 91lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed                                88mph

0-60mph                                  13sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Condition of the bulkhead and A-posts is paramount, as both are complex and expensive to fix. Check them carefully, along with other hidden rot spots including the strut tops, sills, spare wheel well and opposite void, boot floor and floor pan. The jacking points can also dissolve, as can the main members above the rear axle, along with the rear spring and shock absorber mountings. 

Visible rust is most likely in the area around the headlamps, front bumper supports, front edge of the bonnet, front wings, rear arches and both front and rear valances. 

Also check the B-posts and closing panels for the rear doors. New-old stock panels do occasionally surface, but a good selection of remanufactured panels and repair sections is also available from companies such as Ex-Pressed Steel Panels (01535 632721, www.steelpanels.co.uk).

ENGINE

The first signs of trouble from a Kent engine will be noisy valve gear, usually down to worn rockers, cam followers and ultimately the camshaft itself. If the extent of the wear has spread to the latter, then a top-end rebuild is the only remedy, although the camshaft itself is housed within the block. 

Worn timing chains also give trouble – listen for a rattling noise emanating from the front of the engine – but compared to these potential problems, it’s worn rings and bores that will cost the most money to fix. Fumes from the filler cap and blue smoke from the exhaust should give the game away, meaning a bottom-end rebuild is required.

Worn synchromesh is the first sign of trouble on manual gearboxes, along with it jumping out of top gear. Listen for droning or whining differentials as they don’t like high mileages – after 100,000 miles they’ll be in need of a rebuild.

RUNNING GEAR

Suspension can get saggy, especially the rear, but all the basic components are either available new or can be refurbished relatively easily. Rear hub bearings are a tricky to replace, requiring 1200lb of pressure to press them out and the same to get the new ones in. So make sure there’s no play there by jacking up the rear of the car and rocking the top and bottom of each wheel to see if there is any movement.

All MkIIs were fitted with a steering box, which is not as precise as a rack-and-pinion setup, so expect up to an inch of movement at the steering wheel before the road wheels join in. However, the steering box can be rebuilt if there’s too much play or tight spots. An extremely vague steering response can often be attributed to worn inner track rod arms, as the ends wear prematurely. Replacements are becoming difficult to find, so check carefully when viewing a prospective purchase.

Poor rear brakes can often be attributed to rear adjuster cogs failing, in turn meaning that the auto-adjust doesn’t work. New discs and pads are available, but any pulling to the side under braking points to a binding caliper.

INTERIOR

Decent interior trim is extremely difficult to find, so don’t underestimate the task of bringing a tired interior up to scratch. Seat frames can break and both trim panels and carpet sets often get damaged over the years, so bear all these potential bargaining points in mind.


OUR VERDICT

Everything that attracted 1960s buyers still holds true today. Crisp styling, stout engines, smooth gearboxes and perky handling are the order of the day, regardless of model, while almost any mechanical malady you’re likely to encounter can be addressed relatively easily and cheaply. Bodywork issues are a different matter however, so don’t necessarily dismiss cars with good bodies but rough and ready running gear. 

FORD CORTINA MK4 REVIEW

Classic Ford Cortina Review

Classic Ford Cortina Review

By the time Ford launched the Cortina MKIV in autumn 1976 Britain was used to mid-range Fords being market leaders. Ford thus wisely played it safe; choosing to reskin the MK3 rather than create a car from scratch. The car had been previewed some months earlier by Ford of Germany’s Taunus, which was identical to the Cortina in almost every way. A popular fleet car and the most popular new car in the UK throughout production, numbers were decimated by the contempt of familiarity and the curse of daily use, but several Ford MKIV Cortinas still survive.


VITAL STATISTICS

Engine - 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power - 98bhp@5200rpm

Torque - 111lb/ft@3500rpm

Top Speed - 100mph

0-60mph –  11 seconds

Economy – 24 mpg (urban cycle)

Gearbox – 4  speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Unless you bought an estate, the bodyshell was one aspect of Cortina MKIV that broke with the MK3 (Estates used the same shell). The sharp suit of the MKIV was ideal for the late 70s; where the MK3 was transatlantic in the extreme, the MKIV was ideal for the sales rep who wanted to break from this tradition and be individual…for about thirty seconds. It’s a mass market 1970s car, so they do rust.  Check the valances, sills, doors, and jacking points first – the enemies of Cortina longevity.  The fuel filler neck, scuttle, and boot floor are other common rot traps, but as many Cortinas will have had a hard life in past years as a family or fleet car it makes sense to check everywhere. If there’s metal, there’s potential for nasties!

Engines

By and large, the range is the same as was proved in the MK3 – Kents and Pintos, with the addition of the German Cologne V6 in 2.3 litre form. Parts will be easy to source, as all these engines were used in other Ford products from the Fiesta and Escort to the Granada. Kent engines (1.3) are known for noisy tappets. Cologne V6s are also tappetty, but the main issue is the fibre timing gears, the teeth of which can break. Steel replacements are available and commonly fitted. The Pinto (1.6 and 2.0) is most common but also the one which needs most attention paying upon inspection. Oil must be changed every 5000 miles; failure to do so can lead to a clogged oil spray bar, oil starvation, and eventually rapid camshaft wear. Pinto timing belts must be changed at 30000 miles. Best all round bet is probably the 2.0; combining modern performance with relatively reasonable economy and an enviable parts supply.

Running Gear

Again, this was carried straight over from the MK3 – a proven drivetrain which gives few issues in service. In addition, the fact that parts were common to Cortinas III, IV, and 80 ensures that there is a healthy stock of spares for those who may need them. Four speed boxes are reliable, but many owners have fitted 5 speed boxes from Sierras in place of the original. The design of this box can leave 5th starved of oil if the level isn’t maintained – check it regularly! The differential itself poses no issues, but the casing has been known to rust. The resultant leaks can lead to the diff running dry, so keep an eye on the oil level in the diff too. Front ball joints and track rod ends can wear; check for heavy steering on the test drive. Worn void bushes on the rear trailing arms can adversely affect handling – replace with poly bushes; rubber ones have a short life span.

Interior

You get the picture by now; a late MK3 Cortina carry-over. The MKIV used the same dashboard as the 1975 MK3 facelift, so from the driver’s seat was a familiar place for those changing their company cars. Door trims and seats were similar, and whilst the interior was two inches longer than in the MK3, it retained a similar feel due to the amount of carry-over items. It’s a fleet Ford, so unsurprisingly there’s a trim level for everybody from the newest salesman on the firm (Base) to the fleet manager (Ghia). Two-doors are rare, so trim for these may be harder to source.


OUR VERDICT

Most people looking to buy a Cortina will do so out of sentiment; your brother, your dad, your granddad, your next door neighbour, or your favourite schoolteacher will have owned one. It might have been a 1.6L on the firm, or a metallic 2.3 Ghia bought as a retirement treat. Cars like this; street furniture which has long been forgotten, are bought to inspire memories and make one feel about eight years old again.

There’s more. A nice Cortina will draw the crowds far more effectively than any Porsche, for people actually remember them when they were common. Every fill-up, every meal stop, every shopping trip becomes a chance to meet new people. A once-common classic like a Cortina is the easiest way to make new friends – beware if you’re introvert!

FORD CORTINA MK5 REVIEW

The last of the line, the Cortina 80 would herald the end for one of the most popular cars in British history...

Classic Ford Cortina Review

Classic Ford Cortina Review

Meet the old fleet car, same as the old one. More a facelift than a wholly new car, the Ford Cortina 80 (Or MK5 as everybody knew it) was a thorough upgrading of the previous MKIV. Whilst similar inside and out, few panels were shared – even the roof was a new, flatter panel. Designed for fleets, Ford Cortinas are reliable, roomy, sensible classics which can be enjoyed by the whole family. Families enjoyed them new, too.

 

Bodywork

As with the MKIV, check the door bottoms, the sills, both front and rear valance and the bulkhead. Whilst many Cortinas have led hard lives and may have become crumbly elsewhere, these are the classic rot spots for a Cortina 80. Also keep an eye on the boot floor and fuel filler area, if these have rotted out it’s bad news for the chassis, for they cover areas which were never rustproofed when new. As with the MKIV, the estate body dated back to the MK3 Cortina; panels are thus not unduly difficult to source.

 

Engines

Tried and tested units all; from the 1.3 Kent through Pinto to the 2.3 Cologne V6 – all however were modified to produce more power. Due to the ubiquity of these engines, parts should be simple to source in all cases. Both the Kent and Cologne are known for tappets, with fibre-tooth timing gears an additional cause for concern on the Cologne. The 1.6 and 2.0 Pintos need regular oil changes to prevent premature camshaft wear, and the timing belts need changing every 30000 miles. We recommend the 2.0 as the best compromise between economy and performance.

 

Running Gear

Again, this was carried straight over from the MK3 – a proven drivetrain which gives few issues in service. In addition, the fact that parts were common to Cortinas III, IV, and 80 ensures that there is a healthy stock of spares for those who may need them. Sierra 5 speed gearboxes – a common modification – need to be kept well topped up with oil; 5th gear is prone to oil starvation if forgotten. The differential casing rusts, causing leaks which can lead to a dry diff – watch the oil level there too. Heavy steering indicates worn track rod ends and ball joints, whereas sloppy handling is caused by worn void bushed on the rear trailing arms. Rubber replacements are not long lived; the poly bushes are a wiser investment.

 

Interior

The interior remained largely unchanged from the MKIV – and thus, unchanged from that used in the last of the MK3s. There are several models to choose from; from 2 door Base right up to Ghia S – check the trim, as whilst Cortinas are still easy to get parts for, it may be difficult to find trim in rare colours or specs. Note that there are few 2 door MKIVs or 80s left, so sourcing 2 door specific trim might not be terribly easy.

 

Why Should I Buy One?

There are two real reasons for buying a classic that in its day was seen as mundane. The first is nostalgia; we all know someone who had a ‘Tina and seeing one has the ability to make one feel six again. The second reason is pure sense; a car designed for daily use by family will still be perfectly capable of doing that job thirty years on; the Cortina makes an excellent daily classic for all the family. Should you be interested – and we could well understand why – be prepared for onlookers to gawp in amazement and for every stop to turn into a discussion!

   

Vital Statistics

Engine - 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power - 102bhp@5200rpm

Torque - 114lb/ft@3500rpm

Top Speed - 102mph

0-60mph –  10.3 seconds

Economy – 24 mpg (urban cycle)

Gearbox – 4  speed manual

FORD LOTUS CORTINA REVIEW

Classic Ford Lotus Cortina Review

Classic Ford Lotus Cortina Review

Subtle isn’t really a word that can be used to describe the Ford Lotus Cortina. Sure, it lacks the complement of hideous spoilers that manufacturers use these days to signal that there’s something a bit hot under the bonnet of an ordinary saloon, but you’re still in no doubt that this is something special. The wide wheels certainly add a dashing touch, but it’s the low stance and that vivid green slash that shout "Out of the way, I’m coming through!" It looks like a race car, probably because that’s what it was. The twin-cam engine, based on Ford’s own four cylinder power unit, was developed for racing. Ford were looking to get into motorsport themselves, and did a deal with Colin Chapman of Lotus to build 1000 quick Cortinas with racing in mind.

To put the twin-cam Lotus engine into perspective, the most powerful Cortina available at the time of the Lotus’s launch was the GT, which had 78bhp. The Lotus developed 105bhp, or 115 in Special Equipment form. In a light car like the Cortina, this makes for formidable performance, with 60mph coming up in a touch less than ten seconds, with the engine finally running out of puff at 107mph.

At launch in 1963, this was a sensation. The suspension was not just dropped but re-engineered at the back, with upright coils replacing the leaf springs and an A-bracket helping locate the rear axle. It was very controversial and Ford quickly lost patience with it, replacing the complex set-up with conventional leaf-springs from 1965.

From the moment you coax the twin-cam Lotus engine into life, you know this isn’t going to be a pedestrian experience. It’s rorty and vocal, revving instantly as you blip the throttle. Moving away, the car at first feels reluctant – almost truculent – negotiating speed humps and traffic lights. Put your foot down below 3000rpm and you begin to wonder whether there’s something seriously wrong. The clutch is also heavy and snatchy. This doesn’t seem like much fun.

Keep your foot down, though, and the engine hits that sweet spot, launching the car down the road. Snatch another gear and the power just keeps on coming. Surely it must be topping the ton? A glance at the speedometer suggests otherwise – a mere 60mph. It’s quite remarkable just how much fun this car is without being outlandishly fast. It’s not so much the power, but the brutal, all-out delivery. Ease off and the engine spits and pops like a proper racer. Bury the throttle and a primeval growl under the bonnet assaults the senses, as the twin Webers greedily suck in air and fuel. In no way is this relaxing. It’s noisy and the gearing is almost ludicrously short, making motorway speeds far from effortless. But this isn’t a motorway car. It begs you to hurl it into the corners and keep your foot down as you head for the next one. Disc brakes up front help bleed the speed back off, and the steering, despite being by recirculating ball, is tight and communicative. It’s surprisingly easy to get the tyresto squeal, but not surprising at all that the car encourages you to drive this way. On public roads, we didn’t try to reach the limits of grip, but the naughty Cortina did make us get closer than we normally might. It’s hugely addictive and the ‘retrograde’ rear suspension doesn’t mute the experience even slightly.

Straight sections of road may be tedious and even uncomfortable at times, but when faced with a series of turns, the Lotus Cortina leaves you begging for more. Few cars plead with you to treat them in such a reckless and cavalier manner, and fewer still have comfortable seating for two adults in the back along with a large boot.

No wonder then that the Lotus Cortina lives on as one of the Blue Oval’s greatest icons.

  • In total, 3301 Lotus Cortina Mk1s were built. An old joke goes that of that number only 5000 remain, due to the number of copies.
  • The twin-cam engines were first built by JAP and then Villiers. Lotus famously moved to Hethel, Norfolk to have the capacity to build them in-house.