The MGB and MGB GT have earned their spurs as the go-to classic sports car for those who want a simple and easy-to-maintain experience. Here are our top tips for getting the best one for your money…
CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MG MAESTRO
The MG Maestro was Austin-Rover’s attempt at entering the medium-sized hot hatch market. Available with a choice of three engines across a nine year lifespan, the mightiest of Maestros offers an intriguing daily prospect.
VITAL STATISTICS
(MG Maestro EFi)
Engine - 1994cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power - 115bhp@5500rpm
Torque - 134lb/ft@2800rpm
Top Speed - 115mph
0-60mph – 8.5 seconds
Economy - 28.3mpg (urban cycle)
Gearbox - 5 speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
As with any Maestro, bodywork is important; running issues are often easily and cheaply fixed whereas a bad bodyshell can cost thousands to rectify. The A-pillars and general windscreen area are places to keep an eye on – rectifying advanced rot here involves removing the bonded screen. The wheelarch to sill joins are common rust spots too, and many will have had repairs. Fuel filler pockets like to perform disappearing acts, but GRP and carbon fibre replacements are available from the MG M Group. Unlike the Austin Maestro, the MG only ever came with the plastic bumpers – as these were painted on the car, all metal behind them was left unpainted at the factory. If you’re looking at a car without a boot floor, there probably won’t be any metal left underneath it either! Tailgates can rust along the bottom edge and beneath the rear window – these are easily replaceable if a spare can be found.
A pleasing aspect of Maestro bodywork is that the metalwork is common to the Austin AND MG iants, so panels shouldn’t be hard to source. Beware however that metal and plastic bumper cars used different wings and valances amongst other items – check that any panel you’re buying in front of or behind the doors has come from a plastic bumper car!
MG spoiler sets are easily sourced, though the centre trim for the front spoiler (Removable, to enable access to the towing eye) is hard to source. The Maestro Turbo has unique bumpers, side skirts, and a unique top spoiler on the tailgate – there are reproductions available but they y in quality – it’s best if you source a car with the originals intact.
Engines
Simple Three engines in 4 overall states of tune. Early MG Maestros used the 1.6 R-series engine from the standard Maestro range, topped with twin Weber 40DCNF carburettors. Whilst these sound fabulous, they were renowned when new for hot starting issues, though those still in regular use seem reliable enough. As with the rest of the Maestro range, this unit was replaced by the S-series in July 1984, with the same twin-Weber fuelling arrangement. The principal difference was the replacement of a timing chain with a timing belt – and as with all 1.6 Maestros, oil emulsification in the filler pipe is normal and not a sign of head gasket failure. S-series MG1600s are rare, as three months later the Maestro was given the 2.0 O-series from the Montego, with fuel injection as standard. O-series engines have proven long-lived and trouble free, and the improved power and torque characteristics make the EFi a better bet as a daily driver. In 1989, Austin-Rover fitted the MG Montego Turbo spec engine into the Maestro; a 152bhp O-series with a single electronically controlled SU HIF44 carburettor and a Garrett T3 turbocharger. Many of these will have had performance upgrades, but standard cars are more likely to be in good mechanical condition.
Running Gear
The MG1600s used the same VW gearbox seen in contemporary Golf GTis – though the Austin-Rover linkages left little to be desired. This unit can be notchy in use, and the linkages are prone to popping off the box when worn. This is quickly and easily fixed – and the simple expedient of cable-tying the linkages in place prevents recurrences. All O-series engined cars use the Honda designed PG1 gearbox from the Montego. Vague gear-changes indicate worn linkages, but search the internet and you’ll find several solutions to worn PG1 gear linkages!. Front wheel bearings wear – and due to the scarcity of components, check all cars with PAS for issues.
Interior
All interiors are Flint Grey, and there were three styles as time went by. MG1600s had specially contoured seats trimmed in grey velour and houndstooth cloth; these are supremely comfortable and hard-wearing. Early MG EFis had similar trim on the standard sports seats, whilst later EFis and Turbos had full grey velour. Until 1987, MG Maestros had red seatbelts and carpets; from then until the end of production all trim was grey.
All 1600s and EFis to 1986 model year had the early Maestro dashboard; which is prone to rattling. All post 1986 cars had the Montego style one-piece dash – rattles are not uncommon from this either, and it has a habit of cracking and lifting above the instrument binnacle. All 1600s should have the digital dashboard, which became an option for the EFi and is very rarely seen in cars with the later dash. Digital dashboards are generally reliable and easy to source if needed, but the trip computer for the one piece dashboard is hard to source. Electric windows were an option and sometimes stick – the best option is to replace the ECU or the switches.
OUR VERDICT
They’re practical, fast, and rapidly becoming rare. With space for four adults plus luggage, easy visibility, all the mod cons one expects and decent power to (right) boot, the MG Maestro is a tempting classic daily. It will even be kind on your wallet; for the O-series engine models in particular are capable of quite impressive economy figures. Plus as with all hot hatches they’re starting to appreciate in value – the time will come when we look back and kick ourselves for not buying nice ones whilst they were cheap.
MG METRO REVIEW
When even the cheapest modern supermini is equipped with all manner of modern conveniences, the MG Metro and its turbocharged sister are a breath of fresh air.They are lightweight, responsive, and perfect retro hot hatchbacks.
Despite a few drawbacks shared with lesser Metros - a rather bus-like driving position and the limitation sof the four-speed gearbox - the 72bhp 1275cc A-Plus engine buzzes along nicely. On the 93bhp Turbo, it all feels much more urgent - more capable of scaring the odd Golf GTI. On twisty back roads you'll have no trouble keeping up with supposedly faster cars and there's a go-kart quality to its direction changes, which makes it feel just like a grown-up Mini. The rasping exhaust, and rumbling A-series add to the familiarity.
The steering lightens up nicely once under way and the brakes respond sharpely, aided by larger front discs than on the standard Metro. There's a pleasingly chunky feel to the smaller three-spoke steering wheel - its beefier rim was one of the main additions to the Metro interior, along with more heavily-bolstered seats and some snazzy detailing including red seatbelts and carpets. On the other hand, the dashboard differed little from the standard models, so anyone familiar with other Metros will feel right at home despite the more colourful cabin.
The facia is farily basic, containing just simple ventilation controls and a handful of switches, although the MG did get different graphics for the instruments. The minimalist design contributes a feeling of space despite the compact external dimensions and everything is logically sited. Which means you can just get on and enjoy extracting all the performance this little MG has to offer.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1275cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 93bhp@6130rpm
Torque 85lb ft@2650rpm
Top speed 112mph
0-60mph 9.9sec
Economy 35mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
All of the Metro’s bodywork can rust, so pay close attention to the length of each sill, the rear wheelarches and the bottom of each door, particularly rear doors of five-door models. The front and rear valances also rot, especially around the seams – take a look from either side, as they’re double-skinned. Other rot spots include the fuel filler surround, rain guttering and front corners of the footwell, plus the inner rear wings and spare wheel well. MG and Vanden Plas Metros had a sunroof, so make sure the drain holes haven’t clogged, leading to the surround corroding.
The metal around each headlamp rots, as do the front wings, the strengthening panels on the bonnet’s underside, and the base of the windscreen and bulkhead. Scrutinise the front and rear subframes. The front one isn’t rot-prone but the rear one is, as are their mountings – repairs means removing the subframes for welding. New subframes are available or you can buy used ones, ready to fit, for £70 (front) and £120 (rear).
You can still get most body panels. Genuine and pattern parts crop up regularly, although you’re more likely to find wings, bonnets, door skins and valances than floorpans. Bear in mind that the Turbo featured different pressings compared with the standard Metro. Bonnets have extra louvres, while the wings have cut-away wheelarches, and these panels are now scarce. Also, standard Metros had a grille that’s blanked off on the nearside, but automatic and MG models need the extra cooling; fit the wrong grille and you’ll regret it.
ENGINES
All pre-1990 Metros featured the A-series powerplant. It was heavily reworked for the Metro, for greater efficiency and reliability, hence the A+ tag.
Renowned for its toughness this powerplant takes hard use (even neglect) in its stride. But whereas most engines display low oil pressure when they’re about to expire, the Metro’s doesn’t. Up until the point where it goes bang, it can appear healthy. Leaks are normal, mainly from the gearchange and timing chain oil seals.
Poor running can usually be traced to a soaked ignition system, thanks to the distributor being on the front of the engine.
Valve guides and stem seals wear out, especially on 1275cc engines, leading to clouds of blue smoke once the power is applied after the over-run. Timing chain rattle is endemic to 1.0-litre cars – fitting a duplex chain assembly for around £100 will cure it.
If you’re looking at a Turbo, make sure the blower is in good nick. Large clouds of exhaust smoke mean the turbocharger has worn out, possibly because it hasn’t been allowed to idle before switching off after a run. Things are worse if the wrong oil is used – all Metros use 15/40, which should be changed every 3-5000 miles.
TRANSMISSION
Just two different transmissions were fitted to the Metro: a 4-speed manual or a 4-speed auto, the latter offered only with the 1275cc engine. The manual transmission whined loudly in first even when new, but the ‘box is tough, with serious abuse or a lack of maintenance needed for problems to crop up.
The automatic transmissions are less durable and rebuilds are costly at £900. Fitting a used unit is the usual solution – they’re £150. If the car is jerky when moving off, the bands need adjusting. This should be done periodically to maintain smooth progress.
RUNNING GEAR
The rack-and-pinion steering is durable, as is the suspension. Some owners find the Hydragas suspension daunting, but it’s nothing to be afraid of. Top up the system every three years or so and problems will be kept to a minimum.
Problems can occur, such as corrosion of the pipe joints, leading to fluid leaks, so check the condition of each union. Ensure the ride height is even left and right; the system is connected side-to-side at the rear, but not at the front. Topping up the system is easy, with new pumps around £300 and used ones £100-200.
A iety of wheels were fitted to the Metro and they’re all interchangeable, with many owners fitting alloys as they look nicer. Late pre-facelift cars (summer 1984 on) had imperial pressed-steel wheels, but later cars had metric items, with tyres costly and difficult to source. As a result, the earlier wheels are still popular.
The split braking system features four-pot callipers, but parts are available and cheap. The Turbo and GTA got a ventilated disc system which can be retro-fitted if the correct cooling slots are fitted to the front valance.
TRIM
There’s little brightwork to worry about, aside from chrome surrounds for the grille and windscreen on the Vanden Plas. All cars carried badges or decals. Those for the MGs are available from the MGM Club.
Original interior trim has dried up and there’s no repro stuff being made, but there are plenty of second-hand parts available, especially for MG rather than Austin models. Earlier Metros had trim that has usually disintegrated, so fitting later seats is the solution; even K-Series Metro parts will fit with some tweakery. Vanden Plas cars had wooden door cappings which tend to delaminate, which can be costly to repair.
All Metros feature a basic electrical system. Aside from poor earths and bodged looms, there aren’t any pitfalls. If any bits are needed, used items are plentiful.
VERDICT
The Metro was already a fine small car, and the extra power of the MG iants certainly ratcheted up the entertainment factor. They still suffered from the issues that afflicted the 'cooking' models, corrosion being the biggest problem, but they are DIY-friendly. Finding a solid example is the key, but this pocket-rocket will certainly put a smile on your face.
MG SA REVIEW
Launched at the 1935 Motor Show, the MG SA represented a new departure for MG. The first all-new model to be introduced since the companys acquisition by Morris Motors, it was considerably larger than any previous MG and caused a certain amount of consternation amongst enthusiasts who feared an abandonment of virtues embodied by the marques nimble sports cars. They need not have worried, for although based on the Wolseley Super Six and aimed at the luxury car market, the SA received sufficient input from MG founder and designer Cecil Kimber to transform it into a car worthy of the famous octagon badge. Originally of 2,026cc, the overhead-valve Wolseley six had been enlarged to 2,288cc by the time SA production commenced and was further stretched to 2,322cc in 1937. With 75bhp propelling a car weighing around a ton-and-a-half, acceleration was necessarily leisurely nevertheless, the SA could cruise comfortably at 60-70mph and had a genuine top speed approaching 85mph. By the time production ceased in 1939, 2,738 SAs of all types had left the factory.
MG TA MIDGET REVIEW
When the MG TAtook over from the short-lived P-type in 1936, buyers could have been forgiven for failing to notice. It didn’t look much different to the PB and the OHC engine had been binned in favour of a Morris 10 OHV engine.
The first of the famous T-series MGs, the TA/TB is as British as they come. With looks as vintage as these, it comes as no surprise that the driving experience follows suit. But that's not a bad thing. Performance is modest; TA engines are generally rated 45-50bhp, but high speeds don't really suit the little car's demeanour. Things get frantic as you approach 60mph.
It also has a tendency to wander in a straight line so it's far better to slow down and let it fnid its own path, guiding the large steering wheel with a light touch. That steering can fell heavy and somewhat vague - some owners fit a steering box from a more modern car to provide a bit more confidence. Thankfully, the brakes prove more than up to the task, despite comprising fairly small drums all round.
If you want more performance, the TB's additional few horsepower is useful, though you'd still never describe it as quick - 0-60mph takes 23 seconds. The later unit does respond better to tuning, though, and buying a TB brings synchromesh for the top three gears, which improves everyday driveability if you've yet to fully master the art of double declutching. You'll also get a conventional clutch rather than the slightly tricky to master cork item in the TA.
Slide into the cabin and you'll find things are snug but comfortable, with bags of charm to boot. From the sprung steering wheel to the small but well-stocked dashboard, it truly evokes the flavour of motoring from yesteryear and its small dimensions means you'll find every switch and control within easy reach. Things are cosy, to say the least, with two adults on board but it's still a very pleasant place to while away country lane miles.
By the time the MG TC came along in 1945, the engine had been replaced by the venerable XPAG engine, and both the brakes and transmission had been improved markedly. However, it still looked pretty much the same – a wise classic buy, then?
Early TCs were built just after WWII so the driving experience is literally from another era. They might not appear quick on paper, but 55bhp in a car that weighs less than 850kg will always feel lively. And the legendary DNA that gives any purpose-built MG sportscar its get-up-and-go is obvious here – the only real drawback, in fact, is affording a good one in the first place…
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1250cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 54bhp@5200rpm
Torque 64lb ft@2600rpm
Top speed 87mph
0-60mph 22.7sec
Economy 29mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1. The condition of the ash frame is crucial so it needs checking carefully for rot. Most areas are hidden but problems around the running boards or dashboard likely mean you're too late and will have to budget for complete renewal. You should also check that the doors don't sag when opened. Also, pull gently on the rear wings - movement here probably means the fixings are coming away from the frame.
2. Equally vital is checking the chassis for corrosion. Pay particular attention to the fit of the body panels as serious misalignment could indicate a chassis that is terminally twisted. The bonnet is a good starting point, as the centre hinge should align with the joint in the scuttle. Chassis flex is an issue - it's worth getting the car onto a ramp as there is a weak spot in the gearbox area where a strengthening box section can crack. New ones aren't available so you're looking at extensive repair work or having a new one made up.
3. Needless to say the steel body panels are susceptible to corrosion although replacements can be found.Check the wings, door bottoms, the panel joints, and around the rear bulkhead. The fuel tank is another rot spot as the felt pads upon which it rests trap moisture. Bear in mind too that the hand-built nature means every car will be slightly different, so an inspection by a marque expert (find them through the owner's club) is invaluable. The TB body differed little, although the bonnet's cooling louvres are different, for example.
4. The TA's 'MPJG' unit is usually long-lasting, but can succumb to cracks in the cylinder block and head, so check that oil and water aren't mixing - you'll see a mayonnaise-like substance when you open the radiator cap. Expect at least 60psi of oil pressure when warm, and bear in mind that the use of white metal bearings makes re-builds costlier. The 'XPAG' unit fitted to TBs had a stronger block and crank and a modified head, and is more tunable. Known issues include weak lubrication to the cam followers, which accelerates wear, and the potential for breakage of valaves or crankshaft, which is clearly a major fix. Shell bearings make re-builds easier and cheaper, and like the TA, if it's lasted this long, chances are it'll be fine. The position of the air cleaner is a quick way to tell them apart - it's horizontal at the rear of the inlet on the TA, transverse and resting on the rocker cover on the TB.
5. Gearboxes are strong, although the TB's extra synchromesh is handy. Likewise the rear axle, which rarely gives trouble. A TA clutch is a cork item that runs in an oil bath, while the TB gets a conventional item. Neither gives trouble unless abused. Gearbox internals, especially for the TA, are getting a bit scarce, so be wary of a unit that sounds or feels in need of a re-build - if it pops out of gear, leaks transmission oil or emits a loud whine, beware. Some owners choose to fit a Ford Sierra Type 9 five-speed gearbox for quieter cruising.
6. Leaf springs and lever arm dampers feature all round, and regular greasing of the phosphor-bronze bushes is vital. Check for evidence of worn front axle trunnions and broken mounting bolts, but it's at the rear where particular care is needed. Badly worn mountings could allow the spring to strike the fuel tank with dangerous consequences for the handling and - potentially - the retention of petrol. The Bishop steering box is known to wear quickly and is often over-adjusted to cure excessive play - some owners fit a VW unit instead. The steel brake drums can warp too. It's essential to get the suspension and steering set-up correctly, so seek specialist advice if you're unsure. The owners' club are the best place to start to find a reputable expert.
7. The interior is pleasingly simple, and professional re-trimming will sort any issues - at a cost, of course. Don't forget to check the condition of the hood and sidescreens, though, and their mounting points, plus the chrome trim.
Bodywork
In truth, there doesn’t appear to be much in the way of TC bodywork to assess – the doors are cut away, leaving only the twopiece bonnet, wings and rear body tub to worry about. The exposed and delicate wings in particular are vulnerable to dents and scuffs, however, although these cars’ relative rarity means that most enthusiast-owned cars have been restored extensively by now. Ignore any rust at your peril.
That said, problems still arise – the doors are notoriously prone to maladjustment and will foul the surrounding bodywork if not fitted correctly. Thankfully, packing (or, if you’re feeling particularly brave, physically bending) the two hinges should get a wonky door properly aligned again.
It’s a complex car, too – there are actually 22 separate body components, most of which were fitted and aligned purely by hand and eye at the factory, so replacing rotten examples isn’t easy.
Such is the inherent strength of the body, however, that it can – just – hold together a car whose wooden frame is essentially shot, so closer inspection is a must on any car. Being an MG, parts back-up is exceptional, so replacement wood is available, but accuracy is essential – if the original timber has rotted away, then using cheap patterns to replace them is a false economy. Replacing an entire frame is neither cheap nor straightforward.
Engine
The 1250cc XPAG engine the TC inherited from its TB predecessor is a little honey that could reach almost 80mph in period. Rough running or reluctance to start could be something as simple as SU carbs in need of refurbishment or adjustment, but cars requiring restoration can suffer from all manner of maladies, ranging from seized valve stems (owing to poorly gapped valve guides; a consequence of which in extreme circumstances can be irretrievably damaged rocker arms) to worn camshaft lobes.
Seemingly low (20psi) oil pressure gauge readings while a car is idling shouldn’t be any cause for alarm as long as it rises to around 50psi at speed. Using a higher grade of oil is known to improve idling oil pressure slightly to around 25psi, but don’t discount the possibility of the gauge itself being faulty.
Engines are tougher than you might think – common strip-down and re-build procedures involve a re-bore, new pistons, new camshaft and crank, together with a fresh oil and water pump. This might sound like a lot to swallow in one go, but should be enough to restore health to a tired, but fundamentally sound engine.
Running gear
A noisy gearbox isn’t an uncommon TC trait, and if waggling the gear lever mutes the noise then chances are the fault lies with a failing (or failed) bearing within the remote linkage. The assembly which houses the bearing can, however, be re-bored and re-sleeved with plastic to eliminate the problem. Persistent jumping out of gear, however, is more serious and likely to warrant a gearbox re-build or, in a sworst case scenario, complete replacement. It’s worth remembering, incidentally, that a Riley RM gearbox is all but identical to the MG TC’s, and will fit with minimal modifications, so long as you have the TC bellhousing. The ratios are different, however, meaning you’ll also have to invest in a higher ratio differential if you go down this route.
Interior
Leaky hoods, deteriorated wet weather gear and so on can wreak havoc on a TC’s snug interior, but thankfully there is extremely good parts back-up for these cars, just about all the associated fixings and fittings you’ll ever need are readily available.
OUR VERDICT
The vintage looks and octagon are an appealing combination - it's easy to see why the TA and TB are so sought-after. While great fun, their road manners reflect their pre-WWII age, so you're best off trying one before you commit. If it does suit, though, you'll love the little MG.
MG TD MIDGET REVIEW
MG's famous Midget series of T models ran through TA, TB, TC, TD and TF before the entire series was replaced by the MGA. The 1950 release of the MG TD Midget caused quite a stir. Despite the car looking essentially the same as the TC it replaced, under the skin much was new. The car was five inches longer, and the body four inches wider than the immediate post-war TC which it replaced. Top speed was increased to 80mph from the 1,250cc overhead valve engine. It was the handling that saw the greatest improvements over the TC. The MG TD featured independent front suspension with coil springs, together with rack and pinion steering and 15" disc wheels for the first time. A TC drivetrain with modified hypoid geared rear axle and a completely new chassis developed in the Y-Type saloon and making use of box-section side rails and crossmembers and it was of all-welded construction; this provided a much sturdier and stiffer frame than the old Midget chassis Styling changes to the MG TD, which was created largely at the Abingdon factory rather than Morris's Cowley design office, over the MG TC include new bumpers front and back and new 15 inch pressed-steel wheels in place of the old 19 inch wire-wheels (although these looked slightly odd on such an old fashioned car and didn't quite manage to fill the arches). Using the traditional steel on a wood-frame construction, the TD's body retained some of the classic T-series lines while updating them ever so slightly. This was a huge leap forward for the company, who were now able to offer the option of left as well as right hand drive, and helped make the new MG TD of 1949 by far the most popular of the Midgets. 1950 saw MG release the MG TD Mk II. With a more highly tuned version of the XPAG engine producing 57bhp at 5500rpm, bigger carburetors and further improvements to the suspension, the MK II furthered the MG TD's sales success. The MG TD was dropped to make way for the MG TF and MG TF 1500, with the last MG TD being sold by an MG dealer in 1953.
MG TF REVIEW
The original MG TF simply oozes traditional British style and charm.
TFs have a vintage feel to match their sporting looks. That said, they do feel more civilised than their earlier T-series siblings, as well as benefiting from a slightly wider cockpit. They have better road manners, too – the ride isn’t as harsh and the rack-and-pinion steering is devoid of any play.
When the twisty bits arrive, the reworked front suspension comes into its own, with the steering remaining light and the nose responding immediately. It can be accelerated in a long, constant radius corner to the point where feeding in more power will simply push the nose further into the curve. The car feels sporty, urging you to be smooth and precise in order to extract the best from the rudimentary chassis. Even the brakes discourage you from scrubbing off speed.
Driving cautiously in an MG is sacrilege – slow corners should be taken in second gear, fast uphill bends should be rounded in third, with high speed curves allowing you to exploit the accurate steering. Only those who appreciate the sheer fun of driving a car will ever get to like the MG.
VITAL STATISTICS
MG TF1500
Engine 1466cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 65bhp@5500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 76lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 85mph
0-60mph 16sec
Consumption 28mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Looking at the scuttle, severe corrosion can set in around the screen brackets. Also check at the bottom of the bulkhead, as the wing beading traps moisture. Corrosion around the edge of each wing is normal, while the seams between panels can also harbour rust. TAs, TBs and TCs have a partially-boxed and open channel chassis, while TDs and TFs have fully-boxed types that are made of thinner metal and actually have more rust traps. These are more likely to suffer from perforation on the undersides than the early models, so be sure to check them throroughly.
All T-series cars relied on wooden framing, although the TF utilised more metal than the earlier models for added rigidity. It’s the wood that causes the greatest problems, with most of it being hidden from view. There’s an exposed crossmember beneath the dash – if this is rotten, then chances are the rest of the woodwork is, too. TF’s are fitted with plywood floorboards – new ones are easy to make, but rusting fixing screws can make the old ones difficult to remove. Body mounting outriggers can rot away merrily, so they also need to be checked carefully.
ENGINE
Engines are seldom oil-tight, so expect seepage from the tappet cover and rocker box. Leaks from the front and rear of the crankshaft are also common, and a heavy leak from the latter will require removal of the engine to fully eradicate the problem. Engines should last between 60,000-80,000 miles, provided that good quality 20/50 lubricant has been used.
The 1250cc unit is a simple one, with shell bearings. However the crankshaft can break across the front web, while the valves can drop into the cylinders when their heads break off. Cam followers also wear quickly. Take the car for a test drive to fully warm it up – with the engine good and hot, oil pressure should be around 50lb/sq in at 40mph. Expect to hear valve gear chatter unless the engine has been freshly rebuilt. If noise is excessive, then suspect a worn rocker shaft and bushes, especially if oil pressure at tickover is down to 10lb/sq in or less. A heavier intermittent knock at half engine speed when the motor is revved suggests worn cam followers and camshaft.
RUNNING GEAR
TF gearboxes are notoriously weak, with the gears and layshaft oftenproving a problem. If a gearbox jumps out of gear or you hear significant whining, then a rebuild is the only cure, complete with a four-figure bill (cue more whining!).
There should be no play in the TF’s rack-and-pinion steering. They are durable, but rattles may be due to slackness in the adjustable inner balljoints on the tie-rods. Negative camber on the independent front suspension usually means that the swivel pins and links are badly worn. The phosphor bronze upper and lower trunnions are prone to wear – if they’ve been replaced by steel MGA items, then they’ll be even more worn. Regular lubrication with a mixture of oil and grease will help reduce the wear rate.
BRAKES
TFs have the same front brake cylinders as MO Morris Oxfords, Wolseley 4/44s and MG Y-type saloons. MGB suspension rubbers and bushes will also fit, while retro-fitting an MGB anti-roll bar will improve handling.
INTERIOR
TFs should have leather upholstery and vinyl door trims. Assemble the hood and sidescreens, looking for damaged or missing fittings. It’s all available, but some original parts are scarce and costly, so be aware of this. Likewise, check all the instrumentation and switchgear is present and correct, as again some parts are very expensive.
OUR VERDICT
It is unfortunate that because of the delay in announcing the MGA, the demise of the TF virtually passed unnoticed. The TF’s passing marked an end of an era at Abingdon – from 1929, when the first M-type Midgets and 18/80s were built in the converted leather-goods factory, up until 1955, every MG sports car followed the same formula. The new MGA was an entirely different machine.
Whether you go for a TF1250 or TF1500, you will have a car with irresistible looks and handling that make it fun to drive. Performance may not be earth-shattering, but the grin on your face will be significant regardless – if ever a car was built for simple pleasures then this
is it. The TF represents a carefree bygone age of motoring. Who’d have thought that of a car borne out of rationalisation and considered to be compromised from the outset?
By 1953, MG’s TD was facing serious challenges from the much more powerful Triumph TR2s and Austin-Healeys. Abingdon bosses knew something had to be done and the TF was the result. Boasting a semi-streamlined body, the new model retained the TD II’s engine and running gear, but swapped
in a higher ratio back axle.
Regarded as the prettiest of the T-types today, the TF actually received a mixed reception in period. It featured a steeply raked front grille, streamlined front wings and faired-in headlamps. The old-fashioned rear ‘slab tank’ and external spare wheel kept the traditional looks alive. Initially the car was launched with the faithful 1250cc XPAG engine that had made its debut in the TB Midget in 1939. Some enthusiasts were disappointed as they’d hoped for more power – the Triumph TR2 was capable of more than 100mph compared to the ‘flat out’ 80mph achievable in the TF. The XPAG engine was later bored out to 1466cc to improve performance. Total production reached 9600 between 1953-1955, of which about 3500 had the larger engine.
MGA REVIEW
If you’re not bowled over by the looks – and you almost certainly will be – then the driving experience should be enough to convince you of the MGA’s pedigree. Even in lower-powered 1500 form, the MGA is a perky performer, although the more powerful engines do add a welcome turn of speed. But that’s not really what this car is all about. What it does exceedingly well for a car of this vintage is ride and handle with real aplomb, which makes it a classic that you really can use every day, even for the longest of journeys. A combination of independent front suspension and rack and pinion steering provide accurate control, and even with a live rear axle ride comfort is more than acceptable. There isn’t much body roll either which makes tackling a twisty B-road an enjoyable experience, while the drum brakes are more than powerful enough to inspire confidence. The functional cabin is a touch on the snug side for taller drivers but it’s easy enough to get comfortable, and all the controls are well-placed.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 1588cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power: 80bhp@5500rpm
Torque: 87lb ft@3800rpm
Maximum speed: 101mph
0-60mph: 14.2sec
Fuel consumption: 24-26mpg
Transmission: RWD, 5-spd man+O/D
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1 When you consider a professional restoration can exceed £30,000, the need to be sure of the car’s condition becomes clear. Unless you’re absolutely certain about the quality of previous restoration, finding another car – even one in need of work – may be the better option. Panel fit is a good guide to overall condition so check the shutlines around the doors and bonnet/wings – major variance here should ring alarm bells. Rot is a serious issue too, the inner and outer sills, A-pillars, wings, and door bottoms the main indicators of problems beneath. The boot lid, bonnet (both of which contain a plywood panel that can harbour rot), and door skins are aluminium panels over steel frames, so galvanic corrosion needs to be checked for as well.
2 The separate chassis will need careful checking. Rot-spots include the front and rear cross-members, the battery boxes, the chassis rails along the sills and around the pillars, and the rear spring hangers. While underneath, take a good look at the wooden floors which are susceptible to rotting-out, paying particular attention to the points where they attach to the chassis. Crash damage may have distorted the chassis and the car will never be right if it’s been ignored – again those panel shutlines are the best indicator of hidden problems. Getting the car on a jig is the only way to be sure.
3 A variety of engines were fitted over the years, initially a 1500cc B-Series unit and from 1959 a more powerful 1600cc lump. Neither hold particular worries for buyers, although there are a few areas to check. Oil leaks are common, often caused by the oil-thrower at the rear of the crankshaft and a seal conversion is available to cure the problem. However, anything more than a few small drips will require a proper re-build. Worn piston rings or bores will cause excessive blue smoke from the exhaust, and it’s worth checking for any signs of head gasket failure as water leaks and cracked cylinder heads are common issues. Steady water temperature and around 50psi of oil pressure when warm are good signs on a test drive. Engine mods (or indeed complete engine swaps) such as bigger carburettors and cylinder head conversions are popular with owners.
4 More troublesome is the Twin Cam engine, in production for just a couple of years. Not only did it have a reputation for drinking oil – poor piston-ring design was to blame – but changes in fuel mixture strength led to many a melted piston. Most will have been sorted by now, but they are tricky and expensive to re-build correctly, so we’d advise a specialist inspection if you fancy one of these.
5 The four-speed manual gearbox can prove troublesome. In particular, disintegrating second gear synchromesh and worn layshaft bearings are the main issues (a chattering noise in first or reverse gears signifies the latter.) Many will have been rebuilt or replaced, so check the history for previous work. Some cars have been converted to a five-speed set-up using a Ford Sierra gearbox – purists may frown but it’s not a problem as long as the job was done properly. Listen-out for a whining differential and check that worn bearings haven’t allowed oil to leak from the axle casing onto the brakes.
6 The drum brakes on early models are effective with proper maintenance, but a conversion to the later front disc arrangement is a popular – if largely unnecessary – mod. The kingpins/trunnions need regular greasing to prevent wear and seizure, so beware of stiff steering, while leaking lever arm dampers and tired rear leaf springs are other issues to watch for. Original buyers had a choice of steel disc or wire wheels (twin cam models used Dunlop centre-lock items), and these are often swapped depending on preference. Wires look good but ensure spokes and splines are in good condition as professional re-builds aren’t cheap.
7 The good news is that just about all interior trim parts are available, so a tatty cabin isn’t a deal breaker, but costs will soon mount if a complete re-trim is required. Poor restoration may be more trouble than it’s worth, so an original car in need
of work may be a better bet. Plenty of cars end
up with parts from other MG models in a bid to keep restoration costs down, which will adversely affect values.
OUR VERDICT
While the MGA might appear simple in design there are enough pitfalls to make a rash purchase unwise. That shouldn’t put you off this fine British classic – it just means that you need to take a little care and preferably engage the services of a reputable specialist to ensure you don’t land yourself with someone else’s bodged restoration. Get it wrong and a world of financial pain awaits. Be patient and you’ll have one of the finest classic sports cars out there.
MGC ROADSTER REVIEW
The first sound heard upon starting the MGC is a soft burble from the exhaust system, similar to the MGB’s pleasant note. Increase the revs, however, and the exhaust note thickens to become distinctly more ‘six-ish’, though mellow. Oddly enough, the engine seems to lack torque at low speeds, and subjectively lacks the punch of the old Healey 3000. This fact can be explained away by the fact that the ‘C has smaller carburettors and taller gearing. It’s a lazy-feeling engine, strangely reluctant to rev – much of this is down to the heavy flywheel – but it has a lot of mid-range torque, so perhaps long-distance cruising suits it best.
You sit low in the cockpit and the steering wheel seems positively huge, often brushing the driver’s thighs. The ride quality of the ‘C is similar to the original ‘B – choppy and abrupt over poorly-surfaced roads, but otherwise fairly soft in normal conditions. What it lacks in refinement, however, is made up for with a liberal dose of performance of the kind the four-pot B simply can’t deliver.
VITAL STATISTICS
1967 MGC
Engine 2912cc/6-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 145bhp@5250rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 120lb ft@3400rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 10sec
Consumption 19mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Although the MGB and MGC bodyshells look similar – both roadster and GT versions – the underside from the front seats forward and the inner front wings bear no relationship to each other. This is important when assessing a prospective purchase, especially if structural repairs are required, as replacement panels are largely unobtainable. Scrutinise all panel edges, especially doors, footwells, bootlid, boot floor and corners, battery boxes and wheelarches. Notable rust spots are around the front headlamps and sidelight clusters. Bubbling here is a fair indication that either work will be required, or shoddy repairs are disguising trouble beneath.
Blistering under the paint around the fillet strips fitted to the point where the front wings meet with the scuttle panel and also to the top edge of the rear wings usually indicate future problems. In the case of the front wings, major remedial work will almost certainly be needed underneath. The turret box sections to the top of the front wings are also a notorious area for corrosion, as road dirt thrown up by the front wheels builds up. If left unattended, rot here can stretch further back to the A-posts.
The majority of MGC bonnets were made from aluminium, making them prone to dents from stones. Replacements are expensive, so many have been swapped for steel versions. The transverse stainless steel bonnet strip sometimes causes galvanic corrosion with the aluminium bonnet where the retaining bolts are situated. If caught early this won’t result in serious damage, but is worth considering as a haggling point.
Pay special attention to the underfloor triangular box section through which the torsion bars pass. Most important, however, are the sills. The strength of the monocoque body is dependent on the integrity of the box sections running between the front and rear wheelarches. The sill section compromises the outer sill, inner sill, a vertical closing panel and the ‘castle rail’. The last of these is a horizontal panel running underneath the length of the sill. Rust in any of these vital areas is usually only apparent when bubbles start to appear on the outer sill. Unfortunately, by this point, irreparable damage has been done – once the inner sill has succumbed to corrosion, the only remedy is complete – not to mention expensive – sill replacement.
ENGINE
The MGC’s engine and gearbox rarely give cause for concern, largely due to the laid-back attitude of the strong three-litre powerplant. Regular servicing is advisable, but a well-maintained C engine will cover 150,000 miles without complaint. Most cars available today will have had a rebuild anyway, often as part of a full mechanical and bodyshell rebuild. Non-overdrive MGCs used identical internal ratios to the MGB MkII, but all others used a unique set of internal ratios, so it pays to find out if the correct unit is fitted. The long-lasting Borg Warner Type 35 automatic transmission was also offered in the MGC and was surprisingly popular, being fitted to around 15 per cent of the production run.
ELECTRICS
The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.
BRAKES
Either five-stud pressed steel wheels with chrome disc trims or painted 15-inchdiameter centre-lock wire wheels were fitted from the factory. With the latter, make sure all the spokes are in good shape and that the splines aren’t worn. You can do this by jacking up the rear of the car, then trying to turn the wheel backwards and forwards while somebody else presses the brake pedal
INTERIOR
The footwell mats, inner sill and driver’s footrest coverings were originally made from rubber, although many of these have perished over the years, resulting in replacement with carpet when replacements proved difficult to source. Most trim is still available, but if you need to refresh a tired interior you will find that the costs will soon start to mount, so keep this bargaining point in mind when viewing.
OUR VERDICT
The MGC isn’t really nimble enough to be classed as a true sports car., nor is it quite as well balanced as the ’B . The cast iron six–cylinder engine is heavy; engineers could not mount it far enough back in the engine bay to spread its weight over the entire chassis. Consequently, the MGC is somewhat nose–heavy. but it scores as a comfortable long-distance cruiser. The ‘C offers the classic MGB looks, but with added refinement, making it well suited to today’s classic market. Modern 185/70 radial tyres reduce understeer and minor changes will improve the handling even more. The six-cylinder engine – similar to the Healey 3000 but actually better – is shared only with the Austin 3-litre, and responds well to simple tweaks. But as a tourer with an easy turn of speed and relaxed overdrive cruising, a well-sorted MGC is already a decent contender.
A six-cylinder MG sports car had been suggested by Syd Enever’s team at Abingdon in the late 1950s, before the original MGB design was signed off. However, the venerable Austin-Healey 3000 was top of the BMC sports car ladder, so it was only when that model was phased out that the prospect of a six-cylinder MGB came to fruition.
The MGC required extensive changes to the front end of the bodyshell, plus all-new front suspension. The engine was a mix of features from the earlier C-series and 2.4-litre Blue Streak motor fitted to the Australian Austin Freeway and Wolseley 24/80. Heavier than the 1798cc MGB engine, it altered the vehicle’s handling, meaning it received a mixed response in the automotive press. The C was cancelled in 1969 after two years of production.
Today, the model is highly collectible and the poor handling has been improved by better tyres and modification of the suspension settings. Tuning of the under-developed straight-six is common, and tweaking to the head, exhaust and cam release as much as 30 per cent more power and torque.
MG ZS180 REVIEW
Don’t miss out on this performance bargain - If you’re after a 175bhp 2.5 litre V6 super-saloon for less than £1000 look no further.
In what was a turbulent time for MG Rover, they managed to produce one of the most underrated cars of the era. Often critiqued for its old-man image, Rover needed to sell to a younger audience. It had to be sportier for the younger market, so the suspension was modified, as was the exterior, and MG got their very own V6 that the Rover 45 (which the ZS is based on) didn’t. What came out of it was a massive leap forward, and one that’s extremely cheap now.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 2497cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 175bhp@6500rpm
TORQUE 170lb ft@2750pm
MAXIMUM SPEED 139mph
0-60MPH 7.3sec
ECONOMY 30-35mpg
TRANSMISSION FWD, five-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Cambelt changes can cost upwards of £500, so check to see if it’s been changed. It should be changed every 90,000 miles. Definitely worth picking up a higher mileage car with the belt changed, especially as there are examples out there that have survived 200,000 miles. A belt change should be accompanied by a water pump change, preferably with an after market steel impeller, and not a plastic one that came with the car originally.
The Security Control unit in Rovers and MGs built between 2003 and 2005 can misbehave – rendering the car undrivebale. This commonly involves minor faults like the horn not working to cause a problem with the security system, which can lead to the immobiliser kicking in. By now a car would have probably had the work done to it. If not, new parts and labour can cost anywhere between £350 - £700.
Generally there isn’t much to worry about with the brakes but it’s worthwhile they are checked, as they’re prone to warping. If the clutch is high on the test drive don’t be put off – assembly kits can be had for less than £90. Brakes should be sharp and punchy, if not new pads can be had for around £50. As parts are cheap, it could be worthwhile to use these as bargaining tools if you’re trying to bag yourself a bargain.
Corrosion within the clutch release bearing can lead to the mechanism becoming stiff. Tell tale signs can include clutch shudder, and it can make the plastic slave cylinder to fail. Can get pricey to fix as this involves removal of the gearbox. Worth checking to see if it’s been fixed before.
As this is a performance car, it will have been driven hard at one point in its life. Especially as it’s phenomenally cheap, check the tyres are in good condition, as these can be expensive to replace. While you’re looking at tyres closely inspect any panels that look like they’ve had a bodge repair done to them, numerous MG ZS180s will have seen the wrong side of a hedge.
The MG came with a spoilers, wings and big alloy wheels. These may have been subject to change over the years, so it’s worth looking at whether any modifications have been made, and how well they’ve been completed. Some cars may have been hit with the lowering stick – so check for stone chips as well as suspension related issued. Suspension bushes are made of polyurethane instead of rubber so should be hard wearing.
OUR VERDICT
The appeal of a fast and practical car remains strong for people wanting to move their friends and family in a rush. Just look at the prices of BMW M5s lately and it’s very apparent that practicality and speed results in high price.
This is not true with the MG ZS180.It may not be the last word in refinement – interiors are particularly lackluster, but they’re still incredibly good value and very undervalued.
They’re pretty much at the bottom of their price curve and are only going to get more expensive once they become rarer – so now’s the time to buy one.
MGA TWIN-CAM REVIEW
Too specialised for mass-production in the 1950s, but modern tweaks make them work.
After years of languishing with largely pre-war designs, the very good-looking and well-performing MGA of 1955 gave MG a new optimism, as well as won new customers. Its success meant rapid development, with the original 1489cc engine being upgraded to 1588cc in 1959 and then 1622cc for 1961. A coupe complemented the original convertible in 1956 and there were numerous other nips and tucks to gradually improve the breed.
But not every change was for the better, however well-intentioned. The MGA Twin-Cam of 1958 was an innovative attempt to build an even more performance-orientated version capable of what the market was asking for: a 100mph MG. For this, the 1588cc B-series engine was reqorked with twin overhead camshafts and an alloy cylinder head. however, the engine proved temperamental, being prone to detonation and burning oil and in need of constant tuning.
The warranty claims were extensive and so, after two years and 2111 examples, the Twin Cam was discontinued in June 1960. Understanding owners have made it a more reliable proposition.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 1588cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power: 108bhp@6500rpm
Torque: 104lb ft@4500rpm
Maximum speed: 114mph
0-60mph: 13.3sec
Fuel consumption: 23-25mpg
Transmission: RWD, four-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR
Bodywork
Especially vulnerable grot spots are the sills and A-posts, but wings also go, so check everywhere thoroughly. Door bottoms go frilly, as does the boot floor. The doors themselves are aluminium over steel, as are the bootlid and bonnet, but the combination of these two metals together can cause electrolytic corrosion. Both the bonnet and bootlid have a wooden stiffener, whic rots. Look for good panel gaps - any uneven or big apertures and/or rippling points to possible accident damage and possibly a twisted chassis.
Chassis
The chassis is quite tough, but if you do suspect an accident then get underneath to look for any kinks or ripples. Focus in the front and rear chassis legs for any issues, and check the integrity of the wooden floorboard supports.
Engine
Don't think that because the twin-cam engine started life as a good ol' B-series, it will be cheap and easy to fix. It won't as it requires expert and expensive knowledge. Be suspicious of any engine that is noisy up top or runs badly - burnt pistons can strike, although it's less likely on later low compression cars. Disconnecting the distributor vacuum advance genuinely makes the engine run better. Oil pressure should be 50psi at 3500rpm and oil consumption is around a pint every 200 miles. Watch for blue smoke from the exhaust and be wary of hit running. Check for possible head gasket issues such as water and oil mixing and mayonnaise under the oil filler cap.
Transmission
Gearboxes can also be troublesome, with second gear synchromesh likely to start disappearing. Chattering in first and reverse is also a sign of all not being well. Loose hub nuts can allow the differential to spin against the axle casing, which will damage both items.
Brakes and suspension
The Dunlop disc brakes can suffer from binding or scoring if the calipers have seized, something the rear ones are quite prone to . Worn or tight suspension trunnions are also quite common, along with leaking or worn-out lever arm dampers. Check the gaiters on the rack-and-pinion steering to make sure they haven't split, as this will water and mud in.
Interior
Most interior trim is available and replaceable. Look for pitting of any Mazak parts and damaged vinyl dash covering. The electrics are Lucas - so expect the unexpected sometimes - but again everything is available to rectify any issues.
OUR VERDICT
The Twin-Cam is the most desirable of all classic MGs, and prices reflect this; a Roadster version is worth more than twice the value of an MGC. The extra performance and the four-wheel disc brakes make it very usable and capable in modern traffic conditions, in a way few other 1950s cars can. It is thoroughly entertaining to drive. Then there are the looks - the flowing Sid Evener shape puts it not just among the most attractive of MGs, but also the most beautiful of all British cars. There's also the perverse satisfaction of owning something that once was so problematical. Because, as a modern owner, you get to experience the MGA's true potential, in a way denied to those who bought them originally.
MGB GT REVIEW
Is the rubber-bumpered 'B the most rational classic car that money can buy?
The MGB GT in rubber-bumpered form is still your cheapest way into 'B ownership. Given how aghast aficionados were at its Federalised bumpers at the time of its launch, we can see how that's happened. But it's funny how the passage of time has really softened those controversial looks - a testament to the design department at Longbridge, which oversaw the installation of those bumpers on the 1975 cars.
In reality, the MGB's modifications were superbly executed, and despite being huge, the bumpers flow well with the existing car's styling. We're not kidding - look at a Seveties Fiat X1/9, BMW 2002 or Lancia Montecarlo to see how bad Federal bumpers can look.
The relative lack of wide appeal for these later models can work in your favour: prices are low compared with older chrome-bumpered cars and you get pretty much the same package. What's not to like?
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 1798cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power: 84bhp@550rpm
Torque: 105lb ft@2500rpm
Maximum speed: 105mph
0-60mph: 12.2sec
Fuel consumption: 22-26mpg
Transmission: RWD, four-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Smoke on the water
The OHV 1798cc B-series engine is known and loved in the specialist fraternity. It's strong, easy to work on and simple to tune. Major problems are quickly diagnosed and often simple to fix - a little burning oil could well be a faulty crankcase breather rather than anything more serious. But don't discount worn valve guides - if so, you'll need a new cylinder head, or, if you're really unlucky, you might need a bottom end rebuild. Look out for oil leaks from the front and rear crankshaft seals - replacing the rear one is an engine-out job. This is rare, though, and the B-series can rack up six-figure mileages.
Driving me wild
The four-speed transmission is tough, long-lived and well up to the task of hauling the relatively lightweight MGB, but it whines in first and second gear ('They all do that, sir'). If you want overdrive, look for a car that's been retro-fitted and ensure it engages and disengages smoothly. Don't worry too much if the overdrive is not working properly - it may be a poor electrical connection or a low oil level.
Spring is around the corner
Ask if the front suspension has been re-greased every 3000 miles, because, if not, the kingpins can wear out rapidly. Satisfy yourself that the brakes are working correctly. Wear in the master cylinger or servo seal failure should be sorted very quickly, but they're easy jobs.
Rear leaf psrings can sag with age and bushes only have a finite life, so assess these carefully, along with the condition of the rear spring shackles. Lever-arm dampers can leak, but reconditioned items are available.
Does it have a beautiful body?
This is the area that sorts out a good MGB from a bad one, so be careful. Rust can hit just about anywhere, but new panels, repair sections and even entire bodyshells can be bought off-the-shelf from specialists and at reasonable prices. GTs suffer from water ingress and it rots out the floorpans rapidly. Sills are tough to fix effectively, so don't be dismissive of corrosion in this area, and be suspicious of cover trims.
Underneath, take a good look at the rear spring hangers and battery boxes. The box sections at the top of the front inner wings rot readily and it's a tough repair. Scuttle edges also corrode, affecting the base of the windscreen and turning a good car into a basket case.
Love it inside out
The interior is basic and solid, but take care that everything is working as it should and there's no annoying minor damage. Nylon seat trim is of indifferent quality, but easily replaced, and door trims tend to survive well, but watch out for rips. Complete new interiors are available off the shelf, although they don't tend to be cheap. Wet carpets could be down to a leaky heater or water getting in through poor seals.
OUR VERDICT
If you really need to be told why you want one, then you've been living on Mars since 1965. The MGB is Britain's most popular classic car with good reason: it's widely available; has great parts and specialist support; and as long as you're not too demanding an owner, they are really good fun to drive. And let's be honest, that B-series engine sounds good when rasping through the exhaust system.
The appeal of the later cars is not just their lower prices - although that's a big part of it - but you also have the added advantage of BL's infamously garish colour palette inside. Russet Brown and Harvest Brown are back in fashion, aren't they?
MGF REVIEW
One of the last proper British sports cars just so happens to be the cheapest and the most readily available. We reckon the MGF is a cracking buy
Power comes courtesy of Rover’s K-Series engine, which, despite its reputation for chewing through head gaskets, is actually a very sweet unit. It’s best to avoid the 1.6-litre engine, as it’s a tad lethargic next to the 1.8-litre versions. The latter two came with either 118bhp or 145bhp in VVC (variable valve control) guise and, though neither are brutally fast, they’re certainly swift off the mark and very happy to rev.
Like any twin cam engine, it’s no surprise that the MGF needs to be worked to get the best out of it, but it’s rewarding. The gear shift is short and sharp, but it can be a little notchy until the engine is up to operating temperature.
Spot-on weight distribution makes for crisp responses and there’s plenty of grip in the dry. Like most mid-engined cars, the MGF has a sting its tail. Push it too hard in slippery conditions and it can bite back with sharp oversteer, which you have to be quick to catch.
For the most part, it’s very easy to live with and makes a superb, everyday starter classic.
VITAL STATISTICS
MGF
Engine 1796cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 118bhp@5500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 120lb ft at 3000rpm
Top speed 123mph
0-60mph 8.9sec
Consumption 38.3mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
A hard-top is a worthwhile addition and can add to the value of the car. It can conveniently hide a dodgy fabric hood, though – ask the seller to remove it so you can inspect underneath. The plastic rear window can crack and go opaque over time, but it can be brought back to life with a chemical treatment. At the same time check out the main body of the hood for damage.
Pat the carpets in the footwells to check for water ingress. If you come across any damp then don’t automatically assume that there’s a hole in the hood, as the heater box seal can fail and cause water to leak into the passenger footwell. Check inside the boot for damp too, as early cars suffered from poor seals at the back.
The door glass often falls out of alignment. Window guide stops are renowned for failing, particularly on older cars, which can lead to poor sealing and often water ingress. Later cars were also fitted with wider door glass seals, which are much more effective at keeping water out. This has been retrofitted to some older cars and, while not essential, is worthwhile.
Walk round to the back of the car and look at the brake lights when the engine is running. If they remain on of their own accord then the brake light switch needs adjusting or replacing. It’s not fatal and is easily fixed, but the switch itself is a pain to get to.
ENGINE
It’s no secret that Rover K-Series engines are renowned for head gasket problems. If a car has been well maintained or if it has had the head replaced – properly – then there shouldn’t be any problems. Either way, the usual check for a creamy residue on the inside of the oil filler cap is still the best method. Keep an eye on the engine temperature during the test drive and leave it running for a couple of minutes after you park the car. The fans should cut in to keep the engine cool.
Inspect the coolant reservoir and see if any oil has made its way in, which is a sign of problems with the head. Make sure that the fluid itself is in good condition, too. Clean, red OAT coolant signifies a caring owner and means that head gasket problems are less likely in the long run. Also check out the hoses, as these can rot and leak.
ELECTRICS
Being a modern classic, the MGF has its fair share of electrical luxuries inside, so try them all to make sure they work. The SRS airbag light has been known to remain on permanently, and, though it’s usually just down to a loose wire under one of the seats, it could mean that the airbag and seat belt pre-tensionsers have packed up.
RUNNING GEAR
Though the MGF is a low-slung sports car, the ride shouldn’t be overly hard – or soft. If it is, then there may be problems with the hydragas suspension system. The fluid pressure may have been released, which can significantly alter the ride and handling and not always for the better. Ideally you want a car that is sitting properly on its suspension.
The tracking can be knocked out of alignment easily, so it’s not unusual to find cars running on wonky tyres. Have a good look for even tyre wear. MGFs should only use the specified tyres. Check handbook.
BRAKES
If the handbrake warning light stays on after you’ve released the lever then the cable has probably stuck, which is a common gripe. This isn’t a huge problem and is easy and cheap to fix.
OUR VERDICT
MGF prices have officially bottomed out, so there’s no excuse not to chuck a modest amount of cash at one and bag a really tidy example. There’s always the worry of a head gasket failure, but this usually happens in the first 20-30,000 miles of the engine’s lifetime. With that in mind, a 40,000-mile car with a watertight service history and either a replacement head or evidence of meticulous maintenance would be our choice. There’s no reason why you couldn’t pick up such a car for £2500 or even less.
The F is a fantastic starter classic for those not quite ready to take the plunge into proper old car ownership. The only real snag is that access to the mid-mounted engine is limited, which slightly hinders the potential for novice tinkering/maintenance, but the MGF at this price is just good value.
A Mazda MX-5 might be the obvious choice as a modern classic drop-top, but the only hint of patriotism about it is that it closely resembles a Lotus Elan. When the MGF arrived in 1995, it kept the old-school formula of good weight distribution, a modest – but rev-happy – four-cylinder engine and a soft-top.
It was every inch the proper British sports car, although the mid-mounted engine was a more modern twist, which proved handy for spreading the weight evenly.
The F became immensely popular, and if individuality is your thing, then it’s not for you. However, if you fancy a sports car but don’t want the hassle of scouring the country for an immaculate example then the MG is right up your street.
Excellent parts supply, a wealth of specialists and the fact that you can find one on most forecourts are all part of the F’s appeal.
Set aside £3,000 and you can have your pick of the finest examples around, too, so it’s easily one of, if not the most affordable drop-top in existence.
MG MAGNETTE REVIEW
Great to drive, the ZA/ZB Magnette has lots going for it.
The original ZA Magnette was unveiled in 1953, with the updated ZB following in the summer of 1956. Designed by Gerald Palmer, the Magnette range was elegant and affordable, yet had independent front suspension, rack-and-pinion steering and a BMC B-series engine. Sales were strong, helping to establish MG as a key part of BMC’s badge-engineering portfolio. Time was called on the Magnette in January 1959 after 37,000 cars had been built, to be replaced by the ’Farina’ Magnette.
VITAL STATISTICS
1953 MG Magnette ZA
Engine 1489cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 60bhp@4600rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 76lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 80mph
0-60mph 22sec
Consumption 28 mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Magnettes weren’t very well rustproofed when new, so you need to check the monocoque carefully, particularly along the underside of the sills. There’s a seam where the inner and outer sills meet, and the whole length of the sill – from the front wheelarch to the rear – needs to be examined thoroughly. If the seam is corroded, then there’s a good chance that major rust will be lurking elsewhere. Another common rot spot is the box section that sits just behind the front wheels. This can fill with water and rust will quickly spread to the sills if the drain channels are blocked. Also inspect the toe boards and all box section members. Rear wings corrode at the back of the rear wheelarch, as do the rear spring hangers, while the boot floor and trailing edges of the bootlid often suffer too.
Window ledges rust, causing water to be trapped in the doors, which leads to further corrosion from within. Front wings bolt on and can be a nightmare, as they rust along the top edges by the front bumper and around the headlamps. External trim can be difficult to obtain, particularly the ‘hockey stick’ chrome mouldings and bumpers, so make sure its all present and correct.
ENGINE
The B-Series is tough and tolerant of neglect. Look for low oil pressure – anything less than 50psi on the move is bad news – smoking, undue tappet noise and rumbling crankshafts under load. A higher pitched noise indicates the big end shells needing replacing. On the plus side, the unit is simple and relatively inexpensive to overhaul if attention is required. The original B-Series was a twin-carb 1489cc unit, but bear in mind that later ZAs and ZBs used a better cylinder head with double valve springs. Is the correct engine still fitted? Often MGA or MGB versions were substituted. Gearboxes are sturdy, though they can become noisy and lose synchromesh, usually in second gear, but will usually soldier on regardless. The same goes for the rear axle. Check to see if the right ratio is still fitted to the car – 4.3:1, 4.875:1 and 4.55:1 versions were used during production. The combined clutch and brake master cylinder corrodes internally and is expensive to refurbish.
RUNNING GEAR
Magnettes have 17 grease points, all of which need attention every 1000 miles. Expect a lot of wear and tear if this task has been neglected. Most components are hard wearing, but rusty front wishbones and broken rear springs are not uncommon. The standard drum brakes hold no particular horrors, but again, watch out for lack of maintenance. The standard set up is adequate, though many owners fit MkIII or IV drums or MGA discs for added stopping power. The rack-and-pinion steering gives few problems, but it’s worth looking for split gaiters, as these will let dirt in and destroy the rack. If there’s play in the steering between the inner and outer column tubes, check the felt bushes at each end of the column – they dry out, allowing for unwanted movement. The top one gives most problems, but happily this is the easiest one to check, simply by waggling the wheel. Another common problem area is each of the tie rods that locate the suspension longitudinally – there are two on each side, one in front and one behind the suspension assembly. Both corrode, leading to the bars snapping in a worst case scenario, so check them thoroughly for abrasion or damage.
INTERIOR
Magnette interiors are well-appointed affairs, in wood and fine leather, but are often damaged by ageing and water leaks. Perished screen rubbers are usually to blame. Replacement trim is expensive and tricky to source, so make sure it’s all there, while early cars’ wood effect steel dash units will be hard to replace too.
OUR VERDICT
Excellent ride comfort, impressive road holding and surprisingly lively performance make the Magnette a great choice. Well respected to this day, the ZA and ZB enjoy fantastic club support, and an extensive selection of spares are available.
MG Y-TYPE REVIEW
The MG Y is ‘sporting’ in the 1950s sense. We guide you around this thoroughly charming saloon...
If the MG Y looks like a pre-World War 2 design then that’s because it is. Penned for a 1939 launch, the War got in the way. The Y (its first series was retrospectively called the YA) used the MG XPAG engine, independent front suspension and rack-and-pinion steering. A total of 6158 YAs were built, 1301 YBs (from 1951) and 877 YT four-seater convertibles. The MG Car Club Y Register believes more than 1000 of all types remain.
VITAL STATISTICS
MG YA/YB/YT
Engine 1250cc/4-cyl
Power (bhp@rpm) 46bhp@4800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 56lb ft@2400rpm
Top speed 71mph
0-60mph 28.2sec
Consumption 29-36.5mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Corrosion is the enemy here. The bodyshell is developed from the Morris Eight, hence a cramped interior. Check the chassis carefully, especially at the underslung rear end. The front is usually protected by in-built anti-corrosion protection in the form of oil leaks. Check the sills – it doesn’t make sense to buy a car with rot and watch for blocked drain tubes from the sunroof. Explore all the panels, but especially door bottoms, boot floor, spare wheel cover, bootlid and rear wheel arches. Watch for leaks via the sunroof and windscreen and as the floors are plywood it can rot if left wet. On a YT, check the hood and weather gear.
ENGINE
The engine has a hard time of it, lugging around a tonne of car with just 46bhp. Watch the oil gauge – it’s not unusual for it to take time to build pressure up, so avoid revving when first started. Check that the pressure stays steady once built up, though it will drop at warm tickover. Listen for bottom end knocks and watch the exhaust for blue smoke. Watch the temperature too as the block and radiator can silt up. With the engine hot but turned off, feel the radiator for cold spots. Engine parts are easy to find, but gearbox internals are trickier. Make sure it isn’t too noisy and that the synchromesh operates in 2nd, 3rd and 4th.
RUNNING GEAR
Check the front coils for damage/corrosion and make sure the trunnions have been well lubricated. Are the grease nipples clean, as if regularly used? Jack up each front wheel and check for play in the hub and steering components by trying to wiggle the wheel. A test drive might also reveal wear as the car should be easy to direct. At the rear, check the spring hangers for corrosion and the leaf springs for any cracks. Half shafts can break easily on the YA and YT. Some people are fitting modern five-speed gearboxes.
INTERIOR
Make sure all the dash instruments work, as they’re specific to the Y. The car uses a 12V system, but some vehicles upgrade to an alternator if modern ‘toys’, like an electric cooling fan, have been fitted. Inspect as much wiring as you can to check the state of the loom as it can degrade with time. Check the trim for condition as replacements are hard to find.
OUR VERDICT
The MG Y manages to drive much more sweetly than its pre-WW2 looks might suggest. It’s charming, however it’s no sports car – 50mph is considered a safe cruising speed. Today it is a reminder of a time before motorways and a desperate rush to be nowhere in particular.
That said, in its day it was a lively and fine-handling saloon – even MG sports cars of the time were not exactly fast. The YT with low-cut sides makes you feel open to the elements and like all Ys, they’re good fun to drive, if a little stately. YTs command a significant premium over saloons – £27,000 or more for the very best, £15,000-20,000 for good.
MG RV8 REVIEW
Originally dubbed ‘Project Adder’, the RV8 was in part a response to the popularity of the Mazda MX-5, which was launched in 1989, and in part an attempt to modernise MG’s image by once again entering the British sports car market. Despite its modern appearance, a tight development budget of £5 million meant the RV8 shared more than five per cent of components with its predecessor, the BGT V8, including body shell and live rear axle, though the 3.9-litre V8 was purloined from Range Rover. A lack of design focus and marketing clarity was reflected in sales, with only 1982 cars being built between 1993 and 1995, the majority of which were exported to the Japanese market.
Following economic decline in Japan, many of these cars have since returned to British shores and are usually very low mileage, which has ensured a consistently high quality supply of cars, helping to keep prices high.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Though it shared body shells with the BGT V8, the RV8 units all underwent zinc coating and wax injection, so should be relatively rust-free. Low mileage will also mitigate the risk of rusting, but there are a number of areas to check before you buy. Constant exposure to the British weather will eventually tell, as will exposure to salty sea air on imported cars. Windscreen surrounds rust quickly where moisture collects behind rubber seals, particularly where the pillars meet the bodywork. This can be difficult to spot, so make sure you take a close look. Many windscreen surrounds were replaced under warranty by Rover UK, so check through the service history to make sure this has been done. If not, assume there will be a problem. Lift the rubber seals to check that the underside is dry and there are no signs of rust.
ENGINE & GEARBOX
The 3.9-litre all-alloy V8 is a strong unit, but does require careful and particular maintenance. Frequent oil changes are essential, as the engine will quickly sludge up and drastically increase wear. Check the service history to ensure this has been done regularly. Heads have a tendency to leak into the valley gasket, so check that the engine is clean and oil-free. Any significant oil leak could necessitate a new gasket and head skim, which will be expensive. Check the fluid levels; anti-freeze is vital to protect the alloy engine. If the coolant is too diluted it may indicate neglect in other aspects of maintenance.
RUNNING GEAR
Despite its updated looks, the RV8 running gear is of fairly archaic design. As a result, many owners choose to uprate certain items, particularly suspension. If the suspension has been changed, make sure that it is documented in the history file and that the work was carried out by a specialist. Steering is also frequently the subject of modification. There are kits available to retro-fit the power steering unit from the MGF, but once again make sure this has been carried out to a very high standard. If any modifications have been made you will have to inform your insurance company, as it is regarded as a safety issue.
INTERIOR & ELECTRICS
All RV8s were fitted with plush leather and wood-trimmed interior, a feature that would have it compared to the Rolls-Royce and Bentley. Elm dashboard and interior trims can suffer from cracks if exposed to the sun for extended periods. These can be repaired, but will be expensive. Make sure the dash has no covering that may hide cracks or splits. Leather gear knobs wear heavily; check this if originality is important to you. Many will have been replaced by now, even in low mileage examples.
OUR VERDICT
The RV8 is a true British classic that retains the essence of the original BGT V8 with fewer of the reliability issues associated with cars of a certain age. The RV8 is also an attractive investment opportunity, with the limited numbers produced ensuring that demand will always keep prices robust. A raft of low mileage imports from Japan has meant that buyers now demand low mileage examples, but also remember that mileage is no indication of quality – tyres and fluids may be old and ineffective, and rubber hoses and seals may be perished. It is vital that you go through a potential car with a fine-toothed comb; often, low mileage cars inspire less confidence than a well-used example.
MG MONTLHERY C-TYPE MIDGET REVIEW
The MG Car Company realised the potential of their small overhead camshaft engine when a team of three 847cc M-types won the Team Prize in the J.C.C. Double Twelve hour race at Brooklands in 1930. The Abingdon factory decided to take their racing very seriously from 1931 with the introduction of the purpose-built overhead camshaft 746cc racing C-type Midget, soon to become known as the Montlhry Midget. The Works competition cars saw mere modification of production cars give way to the manufacture of an all-new chassis in order to challenge the small capacity class in either blown or unblown form. Keen to increase general MG car sales, the company decided to attempt the Class 'H' 750cc world speed record at over 100mph with the intention of beating the rival small capacity Austin Seven Rubber Duck single seater to this goal. A prototype racing car was prepared for the 1931 season and George Eyston promptly took the Class 'H' record over 5kms at Montlhry in January 1931 at 103mph. Running at Spa and Le Mans, and faster than a K3 one year on the Mille Miglia until retiring, among the C-type's many successes were the Irish GP, Ulster TT, German GP and B.R.D.C. 500 mile race, establishing the model as MG's most successful racing car with 44 examples sold.
CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MG MIDGET
The MG Midget can trace its lineage back to the Austin-Healey Frogeye Sprite, the car which brought affordable sports car motoring to the British public in 1958. In 1961 the Austin-Healey Sprite Mk2 arrived, and with it the badge engineered MG Midget – a better appointed version that shared the majority of components with its Austin-Healey stablemate.
Original cars were fitted with a 948cc A-series engine – the same engine that was used in the Frogeye in 1958, only uprated from 43bhp to 46bhp. Twin SU carburettors and the revvy nature of the A-series engine made performance engaging, if not truly quick. By 1962 the ageing 948cc engine was replaced by the updated 1098cc A-series, which was also shared with the Morris Minor, amongst others. Peak power was now a healthy 56bhp and the front drum brakes were replaced with more powerful discs as a result. While early cars certainly have their charms, they are somewhat lacking in creature comforts – a heater was only an option and windows were in the form of side screens, or curtains.
By 1964 the Mk2 Midget had arrived and, in response to the launch of the Triumph Spitfire, upgrades included such comforts as wind-up windows, external door handles and an extra 3bhp.
The Mk3 Midget came along in 1966 and with it the biggest change to the model range so far – the addition of the 1275cc A-series engine that was used to power the legendary Mini Cooper S. But fans of the model were left disappointed when they discovered that though the engine was largely the same, a lower compression ratio meant that the new motor only produced 65bhp compared to the Mini’s 72bhp. Nonetheless, the new engine was a superb unit that gave the Midget much greater real world usability.
Mid way through the Mk3s production run the Midget gained round wheel arches in place of the previous squared-off design, though this would only be the case for a couple of years. The arches were quickly changed back as they provided a great deal of rigidity to the body shell, the round design having a detrimental effect on the cars handling characteristics.
The final incarnation of the Midget name would come in 1974 with the launch of the Midget 1500. Moving away from the dated A-series engine, the new car was fitted with a 1493cc engine borrowed from the Triumph Spitfire, the Midget’s closest period rival. An increase in torque from the larger displacement engine resulted in a second being taken off the car’s 0-60mph time, but the new engine was not universally well received. Though gaining torque, the new motor was not as revvy as the popular 1275cc A-series, and was also much less tuneable. Heavy black bumpers were added due to new US safety regulations, which proved unpopular with buyers.
Since the 70s and 80s the MG Midget has been the budget sports car of choice and first starter classic of many. Its low running costs, diminutive size and small purchase price make it the perfect car to drive into the world of classic motoring. Fortunately, little has changed over the past 30 years – the Midget is still a bargain classic.
Early models are becoming increasingly rare and values are rising – expect to pay in the region of £5000 for a nicely finished 60s model. At the other end of the spectrum, late 1500 models are the cheapest – largely due to their unattractive black bumpers. A runner can be had for as little as £1000, but be careful. The Midget’s bodywork may look simple from the outside, but beneath the outer bodywork lies a complex warren of box sections and water traps. Even a good looking car can be rotting from the core. The best way to avoid bodywork pitfalls is to purchase a car that has had an extensive photographic restoration carried out recently, and has been cared for since. Don’t think this will cost you the earth though – it still costs much more to restore a Midget than the car’s value post restoration. Take a healthy budget of £3500 and benefit from someone else’s time and money – buy the best you can afford.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1493cc/4-cyl/OHV
POWER 71bhp@5000rpm
TORQUE 82lb ft@3000rpm
TOP SPEED 102mph
0-60MPH 12.3secs
ECONOMY 25mpg
GEARBOX 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Everyone will tell you that a Midget’s bodywork is by far the most important check list item. And there’s plenty to keep you going, as these cars can hide rust in many places. Don’t feel guilty about bringing a magnet when you inspect a car.
Aim to buy a car that’s been at the very least part-restored, as these little drop-tops rust with the best of them. Classic rot-spots include the rear wheelarches, the bottoms of the A-pillars, the boot floor and the leading edge of the bonnet. The bonnet is particularly crucial when closing a deal, since localised repairs, while possible, are time consuming and potentially expensive, as the area is double-skinned. Often, it’s quicker and easier (and therefore cheaper) to replace the entire bonnet. Also check the front valance (which bears the brunt of thrown-up stones and road debris), the sills (what appears to be minor rot here often hides much worse corrosion beneath) and the floorpan.
Look very carefully at the outer and particularly the inner sills and the A-posts. Watch out for bodging as well as rot here. Be extremely suspicious if the doors don’t close easily. This could be a sagging bodyshell which could to be put on a jig to get things right.
Another major and potentially expensive rot spot are the rear spring mounting boxes, visible behind the seats. Be suspicious if the rear tyres are mysteriously near the top of the wheelarches. It’ll probably be rotted boxes rather than saggy springs and be pricey to put right. While you are checking this have a look at the footwells, the rest of the floorpan and the transmission tunnel.
ENGINE
The A-series is reasonably durable, but doesn’t take kindly to indifferent maintenance or rough handling, so anything other than quiet idling should set alarm bells ringing. Blue exhaust smoke is never a good sign and can indicate worn valve guides and/or piston rings and bores. Don’t worry unduly about light tappet noise or a gently rattling timing chain – it’s all part of the A-series’ ‘charm’ – but an engine that sounds like a lump hammer in a washing machine is going to cost you dearly.
Evidence of emulsification inside the oil filler cap is particularly crucial on a 1275cc car – they’re prone to head gasket failure – while rumblings from the bowels of a 1500cc engine is likely indication of imminent bottom end failure. It has a reputation for lunching its bearings, crankshaft and pistons/rings, too. Again, blue exhaust smoke under load is the main giveaway here.
Rough running on all cars – particularly when hot – can often be cured by replacing points/condenser with electronic ignition and fitting a new distributor.
Replacement engines are relatively easy to find and parts are available – though a professional rebuild will go into four figures. If a car has excellent bodywork a less than perfect engine shouldn’t put you off.
RUNNING GEAR
Gearboxes are robust rather than bulletproof but will normally still function when there’s some wear. Ironically, the Marina-derived gearbox fitted to 1500s is probably the nicest and most durable of them all, but as with the earlier gearboxes, any car that jumps out of gear is probably due a transmission re-build. Early cars are also prone to worn synchromesh on second gear as well as halfshaft spline wear. Any whines or drones from the gearbox during a test-drive is bad news.
All Midgets – even the 1500s – should handle like overgrown go-karts, so any slop in the steering or suspension indicates that something’s amiss. Trunnions and kingpins will wear quickly if they’re not greased regularly, while overly bouncy suspension is indicative of worn shock absorbers.
Replacement ‘boxes are around and specialists will rebuild yours for £500 or so.
Halfshafts may also be past their best.
The front disc rear drum braking system is more than adequate for the car. The car has a dual master cylinder for the clutch and brake systems, Check for leaks around this unit.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
There’s not a great deal to any Midget interior, and what there is, is readily available from parts specialists such as Rimmer Bros, so even a scruffy interior shouldn’t necessarily kill off a prospective purchase. Main problems to look out for include a leaky hood (new vinyl replacements can be had for around £200), water getting into the cabin during heavy downpours (often more a design fault than a problem specific to a given car) sagging seats and peeling dashboard trim.
Electrical systems are simple but as these cars are now in their forties any original wiring is going to need some scrutiny, and again check for those bodges
OUR VERDICT
As a first classic, the Midget has few peers. A well-sorted example is an absolute blast to drive and its diminutive shape makes 50mph feel like 150mph. The A-series engines are the most tuneful but the 1500 has bags of torque, while all cars handle beautifully yet offer a compliant ride. Parts back-up is second to none and both of the main clubs have super-active Midget sections. Factor in knife and fork mechanical simplicity and a surprising degree of practicality, and the case for the Midget is clear to see.
Just about anyone who looks at an MG Midget is going to smile, and driving one if these cars will mean you breaking out into a full-size grin, even if you might have a squeeze getting into the car. And that can be a fun challenge in itself.
Lots of lovely A-series engine and gearbox whine, the feeling you are travelling at least 20mph faster than indicated on the speedo, surprisingly communicative steering and entertaining handling.
Maybe Midgets are too numerous for us to realise just how pretty a car they are. The cars are comfortable too, once you’re inside. You might not want to thrash a 1275cc Midget down the motorway but they’ll cruise around the legal limit.
You’re getting 30mph and more with careful driver, just about anything you need for the car is instantly available, they are easy to work on and there are specialists galore out there. And if you are not happy with a standard Midget there are countless modifications.