CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MASERATI 3200-GT

Maserati

The 3200 GT was a return to form for Maserati in 1998, but has the beautiful Italian aged well?

VITAL STATISTICS

MASERATI 3200 GT

ENGINE 3217/V8/DOHC

POWER 370bhp@6250rpm

TORQUE 362lb ft@4500rpm

TOP SPEED 174mph

0-60MPH 5.12sec

ECONOMY 16mpg

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

HEIGHT 130.6cm (51.4in)

WIDTH 182.1cm (71.7in)

LENGTH 451.1cm (177.6in)

WHEELBASE 265.9cm (105.7in)

KERB WEIGHT 1587kg (3499lb)

AT THE WHEEL

It would perhaps be a slight understatement to say - especially in the earliest manual models - the GT suffers with slight sensitivity issues. Anyone somewhat heavy footed on the accelerator is going to find themselves pinned back in their seats (after the turbo delay) as the Maserati unleashes its 370bhp, smashing past 60mph in just over 5 seconds. To get a smooth drive requires a delicate touch. Not only do you need to be gentle with your feet, you need quick hands on the wheel, as the Maserati ensure its traction control works overtime, keeping very much in touch with its sporty nature – especially in the wet. It takes some skill to get a leash on the GT, and even more to be able to let it loose. If you can handle it, the GT rewards with rollercoaster like thrills alongside a raw, sporty, adrenaline filled driving experience.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 The exhaust back boxes on the 3200 GT have been known to rot, so make sure you check their condition and if they have ever been changed. Directly from Maserati a replacement can set you back over £1000, but independent businesses can provide and fit for about £800.

2 There is one particularly regular fault concerning the Maserati 3200 GT, the throttle body. Considering the sensitivity of the throttle inthe first place this issue can leave the vehicle almost impossible to drive safely. Due to poor design the throttle body narrows the margin between idle and full throttle with use, this is in fact an issue with the majority of Maserati 3200 GT’s out there. This can be solved by an engine reset, or in the worst case scenario a replacement throttle body which could cost you up to about £380.

3 Maserati V8 starter motors suffer from some problems, mainly due to their position within the V8 and the fact it isn’t best suited for use in a V8 vehicle. Water from minor leaks from the coolant distribution pipes underneath the inlet manifold can often cause the motor to fill with water, so make sure you take a good look in there. A new starter motor will put you back £149.

4 The 3200 GT is oil thirsty, so ensure that the previous owner has been regularly changing the oil, perhaps even more so than is recommended by the manufacturer. It is also important that they have been using synthetic oil, preferably Selenia Racing oil – which is perfect for turbo V8 Maserati’s.

5 Another regular part of maintenance on the 3200 GT is the cam belt, which should be changed somewhere around every 18,000 miles. Check to see when the belt was last replaced. Another problem can occur due to the necessity for the regular changing of the cam belt regarding the radiator. The Maserati radiator is actually quite robust, but the changing of the cam belt can aggravate the joint between the lower water pipe and the side tank, sometimes causing it to crack.

6 On the inside things should be looking pretty good as the interior is pretty hardy, although the lighter leather may be looking a little grubby. If things are looking shabby, then there is a good chance the vehicle hasn’t been looked after properly and the checks you make need to be even more extensive.

7 The tires and bodywork should be in good shape, but then considering the performance capabilities of the 3200 GT it can be predicted that even the hardiest of tires may have had a rough ride and the body may have had a few bumps and bruises, so keep an eye out. Pay particular attention to the rear tyres which are the most likely to be looking worn.

8 Probably the most important factor when checking out a 3200 GT is what the service history is like, you should be looking at a fairly extensive list, if not you have to question the honesty of the seller and the quality of the vehicle. Depending on the mileage you should probably be seeing new brake discs and pads, cam belt changes and multiple oil changes.

OUR VERDICT

It takes a lot to be an owner of a Maserati 3200 GT. You need money, you need patience and you need a pretty high standard of driving ability to get the best out of the Italian speedster. If you have these things then yes, the 3200 GT is a great investment which will almost definitely fulfil your driving needs, providing fun, adrenaline and speed for fairly expensive running costs. What if you don’t really have those things? Then maybe it’s best to look for a slightly less expensive, less troublesome, less difficult, nippy little speed machine.

WHY SHOULD I BUY ONE? The first Maserati made under the then new owners Ferrari in 1998, the Maserati 3200 GT was designed to score high in the looks department in homage to the 1957 3500 GT, and score high it did. The boomerang styled rear lights and departure from the previous square like styling of preceding Maserati’s ensured that, as far as aesthetics went, the 3200 GT was more than pleasing. There is no denying that the manual gearbox of the earlier models was unrewarding, and the throttle rather sensitive, but with the right level of driving ability the GT can be tamed into becoming one of the most exciting driving experiences around.

MGB GT REVIEW

Is the rubber-bumpered 'B the most rational classic car that money can buy?

The MGB GT in rubber-bumpered form is still your cheapest way into 'B ownership. Given how aghast aficionados were at its Federalised bumpers at the time of its launch, we can see how that's happened. But it's funny how the passage of time has really softened those controversial looks - a testament to the design department at Longbridge, which oversaw the installation of those bumpers on the 1975 cars.

In reality, the MGB's modifications were superbly executed, and despite being huge, the bumpers flow well with the existing car's styling. We're not kidding - look at a Seveties Fiat X1/9, BMW 2002 or Lancia Montecarlo to see how bad Federal bumpers can look.

The relative lack of wide appeal for these later models can work in your favour: prices are low compared with older chrome-bumpered cars and you get pretty much the same package. What's not to like?

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1798cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power: 84bhp@550rpm

Torque: 105lb ft@2500rpm

Maximum speed: 105mph

0-60mph: 12.2sec

Fuel consumption: 22-26mpg

Transmission: RWD, four-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Smoke on the water

The OHV 1798cc B-series engine is known and loved in the specialist fraternity. It's strong, easy to work on and simple to tune. Major problems are quickly diagnosed and often simple to fix - a little burning oil could well be a faulty crankcase breather rather than anything more serious. But don't discount worn valve guides - if so, you'll need a new cylinder head, or, if you're really unlucky, you might need a bottom end rebuild. Look out for oil leaks from the front and rear crankshaft seals - replacing the rear one is an engine-out job. This is rare, though, and the B-series can rack up six-figure mileages.

Driving me wild

The four-speed transmission is tough, long-lived and well up to the task of hauling the relatively lightweight MGB, but it whines in first and second gear ('They all do that, sir'). If you want overdrive, look for a car that's been retro-fitted and ensure it engages and disengages smoothly. Don't worry too much if the overdrive is not working properly - it may be a poor electrical connection or a low oil level.

Spring is around the corner

Ask if the front suspension has been re-greased every 3000 miles, because, if not, the kingpins can wear out rapidly. Satisfy yourself that the brakes are working correctly. Wear in the master cylinger or servo seal failure should be sorted very quickly, but they're easy jobs.

Rear leaf psrings can sag with age and bushes only have a finite life, so assess these carefully, along with the condition of the rear spring shackles. Lever-arm dampers can leak, but reconditioned items are available.

Does it have a beautiful body?

This is the area that sorts out a good MGB from a bad one, so be careful. Rust can hit just about anywhere, but new panels, repair sections and even entire bodyshells can be bought off-the-shelf from specialists and at reasonable prices. GTs suffer from water ingress and it rots out the floorpans rapidly. Sills are tough to fix effectively, so don't be dismissive of corrosion in this area, and be suspicious of cover trims.

Underneath, take a good look at the rear spring hangers and battery boxes. The box sections at the top of the front inner wings rot readily and it's a tough repair. Scuttle edges also corrode, affecting the base of the windscreen and turning a good car into a basket case.

Love it inside out

The interior is basic and solid, but take care that everything is working as it should and there's no annoying minor damage. Nylon seat trim is of indifferent quality, but easily replaced, and door trims tend to survive well, but watch out for rips. Complete new interiors are available off the shelf, although they don't tend to be cheap. Wet carpets could be down to a leaky heater or water getting in through poor seals.

OUR VERDICT

If you really need to be told why you want one, then you've been living on Mars since 1965. The MGB is Britain's most popular classic car with good reason: it's widely available; has great parts and specialist support; and as long as you're not too demanding an owner, they are really good fun to drive. And let's be honest, that B-series engine sounds good when rasping through the exhaust system.

The appeal of the later cars is not just their lower prices - although that's a big part of it - but you also have the added advantage of BL's infamously garish colour palette inside. Russet Brown and Harvest Brown are back in fashion, aren't they?

RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REVIEW

Renault

Can’t afford an original R5 Turbo? Happily the Phase 2 GT Turbo offers similar thrills at a fraction of the price. We find out exactly how to bag yourself a good one

The GT Turbo isn’t just a fierce engine stuffed into a shopping car chassis – Renault really went to work on the suspension too. This is a superb handling car, especially the way the front end just dives into corners and then feels nailed to the road.

Sometimes, it’s almost as if it grips too much. At the point where you’re expecting to turn the wheel more to get around a bend, the car actually digs in harder, forcing you to wind-off lock.

Anyone who’s ever driven a Clio 172, or its descendants, will recognise the way the GT Turbo behaves. Add in a sweet, slick gear change and the GT Turbo is a mighty slice of old fashioned fun. It’s one of those rare cars that are incredibly easy to drive hard. The ride is more composed and gentle on Phase 2 cars, which makes the GT Turbo a usable car on the road as well as the track.

It has the desirable qualities of all great hot hatches – it’s exciting, addictive and spurs you into driving it harder.

VITAL STATISTICS

1987 Renault 5 GT TurbO

Engine 1397cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 118bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 122lb ft@3750rpm

Top speed 120mph

0-60mph 7.3sec

Consumption 28mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The metalwork on these cars is really thin, so look for any covered damage. Wonky panel alignment is fairly common as a result. Regular R5 rust spots are numberous and include along the bottom of the front windscreen, rear window rubbers, rear wheel arches, wings, tailgate, doors and floorpan. Also examine the outer sills, behind the plastic sill extensions, the inner sills and the front jacking points. Other common rust spots are the front and rear bumper mounting points.

ENGINE

The 5 Turbo’s pushrod 1397cc engine is prone to noisy tappets, but this is not something to be unduly worried about. Of more serious concern is a noisy camshaft – evident as a slightly deeper sound than the tappets. This noise means the camshaft is worn and it won’t be long before you have to replace it, an expensive task that involves removing the head itself. An engine that has been serviced regularly and maintains a good oil pressure should easily manage 150,000 miles before rings, main bearings or valve guides need replacing.

On the test drive, be sure to find a series of left and right turns. While going round the corner, listen out for a knocking noise coming from the opposite side you are turning into. This noise indicates a driveshaft in need of replacement. When driving along at about 30mph in fourth gear, open the window and listen for a knocking noise coming from the engine. This is the big end bearings knocking and if you do hear this, then walk away from the car, as a full engine rebuild will be required imminently. Make sure that the car does not misfire when on boost – this could simply be down to incorrect ignition timing or a more serious engine fault. The key to reliability is in accurate fuel set-up, and using super unleaded fuel to prevent pre-detonation. Check what boost is being used and ask lots of questions about how the fuelling has been set up.

RUNNING GEAR

When switching on the ignition, make sure that the oil light, battery light and handbrake light come on, and that the oil pressure gauge shoots up. This acts as an oil level reading until the engine is switched on and then it turns into an oil pressure gauge. When you start the car, make sure that the oil pressure gauge moves up and down with the revs. If the pressure gauge is sitting flat on the bottom of the gauge then it either means there is no oil pressure and that the head gasket has gone, there’s something major internally wrong with the engine, or the gauge is simply not working.

Check that all the electrics inside work as French cars of the 1980s/1990s don’t have the best reputation in this area. The R5 uses a chemical sealant in the front windscreen – they are known for coming away from the rubber because of movement in the A-pillars, so when inside the car gently push the windscreen to see if it moves.

INTERIOR

Interiors are generally hard wearing, but the driver’s seat outer side bolster foam breaks down. New bolsters are still available from Renault, but cheaper replacements can be found easily enough secondhand. If the front seats rock excessively on their mountings, check the two pivot bolts that couple them at the front to their sub frames, as they come loose and can need tightening from time to time. The electric windows are known for being slow, caused by the motor’s old dried-out grease and perished rubber guides. Some time spent cleaning and re-greasing the mechanism can vastly improve things. However, sometimes the cause of the slow windows and central locks is simply corroded electrical connectors. These fail to pass adequate current to operate the motors and replacement for new is required as cleaning has little or no effect.

OUR VERDICT

The Renault 5 GT Turbo is a rare beast on UK roads, so finding one will be difficult and finding a good one even harder. Certain parts are now scarce, meaning they can be very expensive. The simplest advice is to buy the best example your budget will allow, as the cost of refurbishing a duff car is likely to be significantly higher than the price you’ll pay for a decent one in the first place. These cars are still prime targets for thieves, so you’ll definitelty want to look into an upgraded anti-theft system, if this hasn’t been done already. The GT Turbo is a highly usable car, definitely capable of daily driver duties as well as weekend blasts.

OPEL GT COUPE REVIEW

Opel

Previewed in 1968, and really made for mainland Europe, the rare two-seater Open GT was only available in LHD form in the U.K., but what a pretty little car! General Motors' Opel GT was the only true sports car that Opel produced. Visually a mini Chevrolet Corvette - also from GM - the GT used the same platform and suspension as the Kadett, and while there was a choice of engines in Europe, only the 90bhp 1,897cc Rekord unit was available in the U.K. Although rare here and rather expensive at £1,882 against a Triumph GT6 of the period at just £1,287, total production of the Opel GT ran to just over 103,000 - enough for spares not to be too much of a problem. Performance was brisk, returning a top speed of 115mph.