Reviews — Classic Cars For Sale

Turbo

RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REVIEW

Can’t afford an original R5 Turbo? Happily the Phase 2 GT Turbo offers similar thrills at a fraction of the price. We find out exactly how to bag yourself a good one

The GT Turbo isn’t just a fierce engine stuffed into a shopping car chassis – Renault really went to work on the suspension too. This is a superb handling car, especially the way the front end just dives into corners and then feels nailed to the road.

Sometimes, it’s almost as if it grips too much. At the point where you’re expecting to turn the wheel more to get around a bend, the car actually digs in harder, forcing you to wind-off lock. 

Anyone who’s ever driven a Clio 172, or its descendants, will recognise the way the GT Turbo behaves. Add in a sweet, slick gear change and the GT Turbo is a mighty slice of old fashioned fun. It’s one of those rare cars that are incredibly easy to drive hard. The ride is more composed and gentle on Phase 2 cars, which makes the GT Turbo a usable car on the road as well as the track. 

It has the desirable qualities of all great hot hatches – it’s exciting, addictive and spurs you into driving it harder.


VITAL STATISTICS

1987 Renault 5 GT TurbO

 

Engine                                    1397cc/4-cyl/OHV

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  118bhp@5750rpm

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 122lb ft@3750rpm

 

Top speed                                120mph

 

0-60mph                                  7.3sec

 

Consumption                            28mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The metalwork on these cars is really thin, so look for any covered damage. Wonky panel alignment is fairly common as a result. Regular R5 rust spots are numberous and include along the bottom of the front windscreen, rear window rubbers, rear wheel arches, wings, tailgate, doors and floorpan. Also examine the outer sills, behind the plastic sill extensions, the inner sills and the front jacking points. Other common rust spots are the front and rear bumper mounting points.

 

ENGINE

The 5 Turbo’s pushrod 1397cc engine is prone to noisy tappets, but this is not something to be unduly worried about. Of more serious concern is a noisy camshaft – evident as a slightly deeper sound than the tappets. This noise means the camshaft is worn and it won’t be long before you have to replace it, an expensive task that involves removing the head itself. An engine that has been serviced regularly and maintains a good oil pressure should easily manage 150,000 miles before rings, main bearings or valve guides need replacing.

On the test drive, be sure to find a series of left and right turns. While going round the corner, listen out for a knocking noise coming from the opposite side you are turning into. This noise indicates a driveshaft in need of replacement. When driving along at about 30mph in fourth gear, open the window and listen for a knocking noise coming from the engine. This is the big end bearings knocking and if you do hear this, then walk away from the car, as a full engine rebuild will be required imminently. Make sure that the car does not misfire when on boost – this could simply be down to incorrect ignition timing or a more serious engine fault. The key to reliability is in accurate fuel set-up, and using super unleaded fuel to prevent pre-detonation. Check what boost is being used and ask lots of questions about how the fuelling has been set up.

 

RUNNING GEAR

When switching on the ignition, make sure that the oil light, battery light and handbrake light come on, and that the oil pressure gauge shoots up. This acts as an oil level reading until the engine is switched on and then it turns into an oil pressure gauge. When you start the car, make sure that the oil pressure gauge moves up and down with the revs. If the pressure gauge is sitting flat on the bottom of the gauge then it either means there is no oil pressure and that the head gasket has gone, there’s something major internally wrong with the engine, or the gauge is simply not working. 

Check that all the electrics inside work as French cars of the 1980s/1990s don’t have the best reputation in this area. The R5 uses a chemical sealant in the front windscreen – they are known for coming away from the rubber because of movement in the A-pillars, so when inside the car gently push the windscreen to see if it moves. 

 

INTERIOR

Interiors are generally hard wearing, but the driver’s seat outer side bolster foam breaks down. New bolsters are still available from Renault, but cheaper replacements can be found easily enough secondhand. If the front seats rock excessively on their mountings, check the two pivot bolts that couple them at the front to their sub frames, as they come loose and can need tightening from time to time. The electric windows are known for being slow, caused by the motor’s old dried-out grease and perished rubber guides. Some time spent cleaning and re-greasing the mechanism can vastly improve things. However, sometimes the cause of the slow windows and central locks is simply corroded electrical connectors. These fail to pass adequate current to operate the motors and replacement for new is required as cleaning has little or no effect.


OUR VERDICT

The Renault 5 GT Turbo is a rare beast on UK roads, so finding one will be difficult and finding a good one even harder. Certain parts are now scarce, meaning they can be very expensive. The simplest advice is to buy the best example your budget will allow, as the cost of refurbishing a duff car is likely to be significantly higher than the price you’ll pay for a decent one in the first place. These cars are still prime targets for thieves, so you’ll definitelty want to look into an upgraded anti-theft system, if this hasn’t been done already. The GT Turbo is a highly usable car, definitely capable of daily driver duties as well as weekend blasts.

BENTLEY TURBO REVIEW

Bentley hit upon a heady mix of performance and opulence with their definitive luxury saloon. But today a Turbo R can make a very tasty classic bargain too...

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 by 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is perhaps the luxury bargain of the modern age. The best thing is that they make absolute sense as a driving machine. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser road users. If you’re in a post-1990 model with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

VITAL STATISTICS

1987 Bentley Turbo R

Engine                                    6750cc/8-cyl/OHV 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  330bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 480lb ft@2250rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                   7sec

Consumption                            14mpg

Gearbox                                    3-speed auto

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The first Rs are now a quarter of a century old. So despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to rot if the car hasn’t been looked after. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough in your examination. 

Under the car, the front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely for corrosion. You should also ensure that the extensive exterior chrome isn’t pitted, while those hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should be straight and free from scratches.

 

ENGINE

Carburettor-fed examples (pre-1987) are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, which is unheard of on fuel-injected models. Either should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided proper service intervals have been respected.

Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be caused by anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault (on post-1994 cars). Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Coolant leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should have you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign – a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results – so be on your guard.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used throughout the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.

Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked-after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models, and leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses.

INTERIOR

 

It is unlikely you will find a car whose cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so walk away from cracked or peeling varnish. 

OUR VERDICT

The Turbo R is a complex machine, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price but, that said, you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things start to go wrong. Be careful, though, as once you’ve got a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less in the future.

 

Check out this video of a Bentley Turbo R in Jay Leno's garage: