BENTLEY TURBO R REVIEW

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 in 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is now the luxury bargain of the 21st Century. The best thing is that Turbo Rs make absolute sense as a driving machine too. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser vehicles. If you’re in a post-1990 model complete with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The first Turbo Rs are now 25 years old, so despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to corrosion if the car hasn’t been cared for. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough with your examination. Under the car, front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely.

Engine

Pre-1987 carburettor-fed examples are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, unknown on fuel-injected models. Either motor should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided that proper service intervals
have been respected.
Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault, the latter more common on post-1994 cars. Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Cooling leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should find you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign
– a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results, so be on your guard.

Running Gear

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used through the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.
Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models. Leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses. 

Interior and Electrics

It is unlikely you will find a car where the cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these symptoms point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so avoid cracked or peeling varnish. Ensure exterior chrome isn’t pitted – the hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should also be straight and free from scratches.

OUR VERDICT

Turbo Rs are complex machines, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price, but you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things go wrong. Rough examples can have a thirst for cash that’s bigger than their thirst for fuel. Get a good one, however, and it can be astonishing value for money. But be careful – once you’ve acquired a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less.

BENTLEY 3 1/2 LITRE DERBY REVIEW

It looks classic, it drives well and you look like Cruella DeVille. What's not to like? 

The Bentley sporting tradition was maintained following the acquisition of the financially troubled company by Rolls-Royce Motors Ltd in 1931. It was 1933 before the ''Silent Sportscar'' was announced, developed from the experimental Rolls-Royce 18hp Peregrine chassis and an all-new six-cylinder overhead valve 3,669cc engine for the Bentley 3 1/2-litre. The new cars had a top speed of 90mph, but now with a silence, directly attributable to Rolls-Royce engineering.

BENTLEY 4 1/4 LITRE DERBY REVIEW

Is there anything quite as gracious as the Bentley 4 1/4 Derby? 

By the end of the 1930s the Derby Bentley, introduced towards the beginning of that decade following the firms take-over by Rolls-Royce, had undergone a number of significant developments, not the least of which was an increase in bore size in 1936 that upped the capacity to 4,257cc, a move that coincided with the adoption of superior Halls Metal bearings. 

This new engine was shared with the equivalent Rolls-Royce - the 25/30hp - and as had been the case with the preceding 3.5-Litre model, enjoyed a superior specification in Bentley form, boasting twin SU carburettors, raised compression ratio and a more sporting camshaft.

Thus the new 4-Litre model offered more power than before while retaining the well-proven chassis with its faultless gear-change and servo-assisted brakes. The Derby Bentley 4 1/4 was, of course, an exclusively coachbuilt automobile. Of the 2,442 manufactured, almost 50 percent were bodied by Park Ward.

BENTLEY 4 1/2 LITRE SUPERCHARGED REVIEW

Birkin, Rubin, Chassagne, Benjafield, Ramponi, Harcourt-Wood and Kensington-Moir were just some of the legendary names associated with the fabulous supercharged Birkin Team Cars.

Birkins wealth was derived from the Nottingham lace industry and it was his influence and determination that resulted in the supercharged Bentleys, despite W.O. Bentleys personal resistance to the fitting of the blower. Birkins enthusiasm and drive for achieving higher speeds was supported by the forceful Woolf Barnato and the Hon.

Dorothy Pagets money. Although 50 supercharged cars were built there were just five proper Birkin Blowers. These thundering cars raced at such glamorous venues as Le Mans and Brooklands and in the French and Irish Grand Prix and the Ulster Tourist Trophy.

The Birkin cars looked fabulous, sounded breathtaking at full song and their racing achievements were limited only by a design that was perhaps two or three years out of date. Nevertheless the legend of the Birkin Blowers and the people and events linked with that glamorous motor racing epoch live on.

BENTLEY MARK VI REVIEW

If you had a Bentley Mark VI that meant one thing: you had class. 

The MkVI Bentley arrived in May 1946, Rolls-Royce branching out by introducing standard bodywork but retaining the tradition of a separate chassis for their immediate post war models.

The standard steel bodywork was available at first only on the MkVI Bentley, with the equivalent Rolls-Royce Silver Dawn arriving in 1949, coachbuilt examples of course available for those that could afford the expense so soon after hostilities had ceased.

Few coachbuilders were able to significantly enhance the balanced lines of the standard coachwork however. Notable features were independent front suspension and hydraulic front brakes, while a new 4,257cc six-cylinder engine featured inlet over exhaust valve gear and manual transmission.

BENTLEY S1 REVIEW

Often overlooked, the Bentley S1 makes for perfect classic car motoring. 

The new S-type Bentley and Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud from 1955 were powered by the company's 4.9-litre smooth six-cylinder unit, the Bentley with twin SU carburrettors. Coil and wishbone independent front suspension was new, and with four-speed automatic transmission, the Bentley S1 was able to convey its occupants in an ambience of leather seats and walnut veneer to speeds approaching 100mph.

BENTLEY 3-LITRE REVIEW

Fit enough for John Steed, fast enough for the gentleman racer and utterly amazing in almost every way - this is the Bentley 3-Litre... 

W. O. Bentley proudly displayed his new 3-litre Bentley at the 1919 Olympia Motor Exhibition a four cylinder car which had first turned heads when fired up in the garage of a mews off Baker Street, London, just weeks earlier.

Deliveries did not begin until 1921, the 9 9 short chassis accounting for 194 of the 1619 built. The engine was a robust overhead camshaft unit with four valves per cylinder which proved extremely reliable, and indeed the 3-litre remained in production almost throughout the entire lifetime of the company, the last car delivered in 1929.

In mildly developed form, this was the model which was to become a legend in motor racing history and which, with its leather strapped bonnet, classical radiator and British Racing Green livery became the archetypal vintage sports car.

BENTLEY 8-LITRE REVIEW

Produced as an Entry level Bentley, and aimed at a slightly younger market, the Bentley Eight was a storming sales success.

Based heavily on the Bentley Mulsanne but with many of the luxuries removed (for instance the Bentley Eight came with steel wheels and cloth seats, with leather an optional extra). The car was distinguished by it's uncharacteristic wire mesh grill, as opposed to Bentley's usual slatted un it; this was a nod toward the marque's sporting heritage and another grab at the younger motorist.

Powered by the Mulsanne's 6.75L V8 mated to the same automatic transmission, the Eight did have a slightly sportier feel than the Mulsanne thanks to its tighter suspension. When looking to buy a second-hand Bentley Eight, main dealers or Bentley specialists are probably the best bet, with parts and accessories still readily available and after-care service that is second to none. Main dealers or specialists are the best bets when buying a used Bentley but some knowledge of what to look for will help you to find the right car. Later cars are preferred by collectors as these came with alloy wheels, fuel injection and ABS, with dark blue and greens being more desirable than black, white or red body-work.

Despite extensive use of Aluminum in the cars production wheel arches are prone to rust. Also the Eight is a likely candidate for unscrupulous dealers swapping the clocks when mileage gets high, to combat this Bentley mark the glass in the dash every time they change a clock; look for two white dots. The Bentley Eight was discontinued in 1993 after an extremely successful sales run.

BENTLEY S3 REVIEW

Launched in 1962, the Bentley S3 and its Rolls-Royce equivalent, the Silver Cloud III, employed the 6.2-litre aluminium alloy V8 engine introduced on the S2, though with larger carburettors, a new distributor, raised compression ratio, and came with a four-speed automatic transmission as standard equipment. Most obvious changes from the S2 were the adoption of a four-headlamp arrangement, the absence of side-lights from the wing tops, and a slightly lower radiator shell.

Inside, there was revised accommodation with separate front seats and increased room for rear passengers. James Young Limited and the now combined firm of H.J. Mulliner, Park Ward Limited continued to offer designs on the Continental chassis, and for the first time these were sanctioned on the equivalent Rolls-Royce, the Silver Cloud III. The Bentley Continental chassis now differed from the standard and Rolls-Royce versions only by virtue of its more comprehensive instrumentation.

By far the most striking of the Continentals were the Koren-designed coupes produced by Mulliner, Park Ward, these 'Chinese-Eye' models - so called because of their slanting headlamp nacelles - constituting the majority of coach-built S3 Continentals, 311 of which were made between 1962 and 1966. Much rarer in convertible form.

BENTLEY S2 REVIEW

Bentley's new S-series cars replaced the R-type range at the 1955 Earls Court Motor Show.

The Bentley S1 was powered by the company's well-proven 4.9-litre smooth six-cylinder engine of the R type, with twin SU carburettors. Coil and wishbone independent front suspension was new, and with four-speed automatic transmission, the S1 was able to convey its occupants in an ambience of leather seats and walnut veneer to speeds approaching 100mph. With development of its dependable six-cylinder engine nearing an end, and facing competition from faster rivals in the United States market, Bentley turned to V8 power as the 1960s approached. A radical change was to appear in 1959 with the introduction of the General Motors inspired 6,230cc V8 engine.

There was now adequate power to achieve a sustainable top speed of around 115mph. Although slightly heavier than its predecessor, the new Bentley S2 boasted a creditable 11.5 second dash to 60mph from rest. The new engine was an entirely new departure for Bentley, which caused some consternation among traditional Bentley customers. In the event, the V8 engine was a huge step forward, setting the standard for the rest of the century. The Standard Steel coachwork of the S-series cars proved extremely popular, having a certain dignity and yet fitting the traditional Bentley sporting image behind the winged B radiator.

BENTLEY R TYPE REVIEW

Looking for a classy Bentley oozing panache? Here we have the Bentley R-Type...

Rolls-Royce commenced production post-war with the Silver Wraith and Bentley MkVI models. For the first time there was standard coachwork, though the standard steel body - produced by the Pressed Steel Company, of Oxford - was available at first only on the Bentley, the equivalent Rolls-Royce - the Silver Dawn - not appearing until 1949. The range featured independent front suspension, hydraulic front brakes and a new 4,257cc, six-cylinder, F-head (inlet-over-exhaust) power unit, the latter destined for enlargement to 4,566cc in 1951. A much-needed improvement to the standard bodywork arrived in mid-1952 in the shape of an enlarged boot together with associated changes to the rear wings and suspension, subsequent models being known as the R-Type Bentley and E-Series Silver Dawn. The two newcomers were the first Rolls-Royce products available with automatic transmission, the company having opted for General Motors Hydra-Matic, a state-of-the-art four-speed unit that permitted manual selection. The standard R-Type was a lively performer, achieving 106mph in silence and reaching 50mph from standstill in 10 seconds despite a kerb weight approaching two tons. 2,322 R-Types had been produced by the time the model was superseded by the S-Type in 1955.

BENTLEY T-SERIES REVIEW

There’s no questioning the class and luxury on offer but should you buy a Bentley T-Series?

Essentially what we have here is a Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow fitted with Bentley trimmings, but while thousands of Shadows were made the T Series are rarer beasts.  For example, just 568 T2s were made and you would have needed deep pockets to get your hands on one with a purchase price of almost £37,000 in 1979.  But if your bank balance was suitably healthy you’d have been able to experience one of the most luxurious cars of its time, and one that still makes rather a special statement today. 

Slide into the leather-clad driver’s seat and you’re faced with a delicately thin-rimmed steering wheel and a dashboard covered in the finest timber.  This is a car that was all about comfort and unsurpassed opulence and it plays that role incredibly well, insulating the occupants from the distractions of the world outside and letting them just get on with enjoying the beautiful materials and craftsmanship.  And there’s plenty of toys to play with too, from the electrically-adjustable seats to air-conditioning that can deliver an Arctic blast at the flick of a switch.  So it’s certainly cossetting but what about the driving experience? 

Well, it proves as comfortable and relaxing as the imposing looks lead you to expect.  The ride is incredibly supple, helped by a kerb weight that simply steamrollers bumps into submission, and the handling isn’t as roly-poly as you’d think.  Sure, there’s impressive amounts of body lean if you get too enthusiastic but it never feels too unruly, especially if you keep to the more relaxed pace that the Bentley encourages.  In any case, the lack of support from the seats and the finger-light power steering doesn’t really tempt you to push too hard.  The powerful brakes inspire confidence though, which is just as well as planting the right foot into the Wilton reveals a surprising turn of speed.  Keep the throttle pinned in a T2 and sixty miles-per hour arrives in less than ten seconds, accompanied by a majestic rise from the nose, although fuel consumption that would shame a fighter jet soon puts paid to those antics.

VITAL STATISTICS

Bentley T2

Engine         6750cc/V8/OHV

Power          Not stated

Torque         Not stated

Top speed    120mph

0-60mph      9.4secs

Economy      14mpg

Gearbox        3-speed automatic

Weights and Measures

Height                     1518mm (59.7in)

Width                      1829mm (72in)

Length                     5194mm (204.5in)

Wheelbase               3048mm (120in)

Kerb weight             4809lb (2181kg)

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

Major body repairs will have a calamitous effect on your bank balance, so every inch requires careful examination.  Amongst the key rot-spots are the front wings where they meet the sill, the front and rear valances, the inner rear wings, and the lower edges of the doors and boot lid.  The rear arches are prone too, and bubbling here almost certainly means worse horrors beneath so have a good feel around the inner lip of the arch.  The sills themselves also need careful checking as complete replacement can easily cost £4000 per side.  And it’s also worth looking for signs of galvanic corrosion where the aluminium panels meet the steel monocoque.

A look underneath is strongly advised as rust can attack the floor of the cabin and boot, and repairs here are a major undertaking – be wary of any signs of damp caused by perished and leaking screen seals.  And pay close attention to the condition of the paintwork and chrome as quality was top notch and repairs or replacement will be eye-wateringly expensive.

The carburettor-fed V8 – a 6.2-litre unit for the T1 and 6.75 litres for the T2 – lasts well but examples without a detailed service history should be viewed with suspicion.  Regular oil changes are required to prevent excessive camshaft wear and sludging of the hydraulic tappets, and correct anti-freeze levels are vital.  Annual coolant changes are recommended as internal corrosion leads to the build-up of sediment and serious problems with the cylinder liners, requiring a complete re-build at huge cost.  The unit also needs checking for signs of oil leaks, head gasket failure, and cracked exhaust manifolds.

The later GM400 3-speed automatic is deemed more reliable than the T1’s 4-speeder but check that gear changes are smooth and jolt-free.  The electric selector mechanism can play up though so ensure that all gears engage correctly.  It’s also worth checking for signs of oil leaks from the differential and any knocking that indicates prop or driveshaft joints that are past their best.

The suspension is a hefty set up comprising double wishbones and coil springs up front and semi-trailing arms at the rear and uses a complex system of hydraulics.  A specialist inspection is advisable for peace of mind.  Leaks caused by corroded pipework are the main concern, but you’ll also need to check for worn joints and bushes and for signs of corrosion around the subframe mounting points and rear spring pans.  A car that’s sagging at the rear or sits unevenly is a worry and with a complete overhaul costing thousands don’t be tempted to ignore signs of neglect here.

Equally complex is the braking system.  Specialist tools are required for many jobs and full refurbishment can approach £5000, so look for evidence of recent work or get it inspected if you’re not sure.  Fluid leaks and seized calipers need watching for, along with corrosion of the brake pipes where they pass over the rear subframe.  There are also more than ten flexible hoses that’ll need checking.  Replacement, which needs doing periodically, is fiddly and labour intensive so if it’s been done recently, so much the better.  And make sure the two brake warning lights on the dashboard illuminate and extinguish correctly – be very suspicious if not.  The T2 got rack and pinion steering but check for any signs of fluid leaks around the pump and pipework on both models.

The cabin of any Bentley is a real high point, and the T Series is no different.  Material quality is superb with the finest leathers and wood veneers, which means big bills if refurbishment is needed.  Make sure, then, that patina hasn’t become shabbiness.  There are plenty of electrical gadgets too, so make sure everything is working and pay particular attention to the operation of the air-conditioning.  The sheer cost of repairing a failed system may have led to it being ignored by previous owners.

OUR VERDICT

If you admire the Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow but find it a bit, whisper it, 'common', then the T Series is a superb alternative.  There are caveats, not least of which is terrifying restoration costs if you choose badly, and neither can it be run on a shoestring.  But few cars make you feel so good, and that alone makes it worth every penny.

BENTLEY T1 REVIEW

Drivers will love the Bentley T1 for its refined, laid back nature and raw power, while passengers will enjoy a standard of ride quality that few cars of the era (or any other era, for that matter) can match.

Once inside vast amounts of interior space, top quality hide and heavily engineered suspension more than make up for that, and the Bentley is one of the most comfortable cars on the road even today, delivering a soft, heavy-on-the-tyres, even roly-poly type ride.

The 6750cc V8 delivers its power in a gentle manner, but there’s plenty in reserve when you need it. The full 340lb ft of torque kicks in at just 1500rpm, so gaining speed is never an issue. 

They may have more sporting pedigree than Rollers, but Bentleys like this aren’t supposed to endure hard cornering. A T1 will grip reasonably well, but the feather-light steering and equally delicate throttle and brakes don’t really lend themselves to hooligan behaviour. Slot the skinny gear selector into Drive, head for the nearest country clubhouse and enjoy the T1 as it was designed to be enjoyed. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Bentley T1

Engine                                    6750cc/V8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  226bhp@4300rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 340lb ft@ 1500rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  10.9sec

Consumption                            14mpg 

Gearbox                                    3-spd automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Bear colour in mind when choosing a car. Colours that were popular when the car was new won’t necessarily be in vogue today and can have an impact on desirability and value. Many T1s were finished in Honey Gold and Willow Gold, but they’re not nearly as in demand as neutral blues and greens. 

It’s no surprise that corrosion can be the Bentley’s biggest problem. The most common rot spots include the wing bottoms, wheelarches, sills and bumpers, none of which are cheap to put right. 

ENGINE

Low mileage cars aren’t always a good bet. If a car has next to no miles on the clock it will have been left standing for a long time. It’s better to buy one with a taller odometer reading that has been used and serviced regularly. It’s also worth finding a car that has had money spent on it – so you don’t have to. 

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

The air conditioning system is as complicated as the anchors. It’s over-engineered as there are nine actuators to operate the upper and lower systems, so there’s an awful lot to go wrong. If it needs any work then a good specialist is unlikely to replace the whole system, because there’s simply so 

much of it and it makes more sense to change the necessary parts. You’ll have to budget around £1000 for a new compressor and hoses. 

The T1 is fitted with far more luxuries than most cars of its era, many of which are electrical (the windows, mirrors, air conditioning etc). Spend a bit of time inside the car and try out everything to see whether or not it works. You can bank on a big repair bill if anything is awry. 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes are prone to leaking, especially if the car has been standing outside for a long period. If you can, find out where the car is usually parked and inspect the ground for signs of leaks from the transmission. Early cars have a four-speed box. 

BRAKES

The complex braking system is a hydraulic set-up using Citroën accumulator spheres. If the engine cuts out then the accumulators can also fail, so you could end up with no brakes. Repairs are lengthy and expensive, as the rear subframe may need to be removed. To avoid buying a dud, look for a car with as much documentation as possible and history of maintenance on the brakes. 

INTERIOR

When inspecting the interior, make a point of lifting up the carpets. They’re so thick and plush that punters often don’t think to look beneath them, but they can be hiding serious water ingress and corrosion, so it’s always worth checking. Obvious as it might seem, a rotted carpet means that there are serious problems lurking beneath. 

Attention to detail makes all the difference with a Bentley or 

Rolls-Royce of this vintage. Tidy boots and gloveboxes, a watertight history, evidence of having been serviced by specialists and use of the correct lubricants can make a huge difference and are all signs that a previous owner has tretated the car with the necessary care and attention. A professional inspection by a specialist before you buy is also very much worthwhile.

OUR VERDICT

Few cars rival the T1 for luxury at this price other than its Rolls-Royce stablemates. But don’t be tempted by cars with rock-bottom price tags. The allure of a cheap Bentley may be strong, but it isn’t worth it unless you have double the budget for parts and you’re a dab hand with electrics, hydraulics and bodywork. 

It’s been said before, but there really is no substitute when it comes to shopping around and saving up to pay more for a good car. Restored cars with a paper trail and evidence of due care and attention are worth the extra money, as it’s so easy to plough tens of thousands of pounds into a rough one. Paying a specialist a nominal fee for an inspection and getting involved with the club scene before you buy will pay dividends, too. Do it by the book and you’ll bag one of the best British prestige cars money can buy. 

Raucous performance cars not your thing? Prefer to arrive at your destination in understated style, but with power to spare when it’s needed. You could buy a modern Bentley/Volkswagen for a six-figure sum – or you could set aside £10,000 (and maybe a little more) for a very tidy T1. 

Essentially a re-badged Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow, the T1 differs from the Roller only in its slightly different grille and a few Bentley emblems. Inside, it’s pure prestige, with the finest of leather seats, wonderfully thick carpets and more standard equipment than just about anything of a similar era. The simple styling renders this Bentley rather subtle in appearance, but its sheer size gives it an almost regal road presence. 

T1s and Silver Shadows enjoyed a lengthy production run, so there are plenty of them around. But the earliest models are now 45 years old, so time and lack of use has taken its toll on many. Budget for a cared-for car, though, and you’ll enjoy prestige classic motoring at its finest – for a fraction of what you’d pay for a modern Bentley.

BENTLEY TURBO REVIEW

Bentley hit upon a heady mix of performance and opulence with their definitive luxury saloon. But today a Turbo R can make a very tasty classic bargain too...

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 by 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is perhaps the luxury bargain of the modern age. The best thing is that they make absolute sense as a driving machine. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser road users. If you’re in a post-1990 model with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

VITAL STATISTICS

1987 Bentley Turbo R

Engine                                    6750cc/8-cyl/OHV 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  330bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 480lb ft@2250rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                   7sec

Consumption                            14mpg

Gearbox                                    3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The first Rs are now a quarter of a century old. So despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to rot if the car hasn’t been looked after. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough in your examination. 

Under the car, the front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely for corrosion. You should also ensure that the extensive exterior chrome isn’t pitted, while those hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should be straight and free from scratches.

ENGINE

Carburettor-fed examples (pre-1987) are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, which is unheard of on fuel-injected models. Either should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided proper service intervals have been respected.

Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be caused by anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault (on post-1994 cars). Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Coolant leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should have you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign – a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results – so be on your guard.

RUNNING GEAR

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used throughout the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.

Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked-after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models, and leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses.

INTERIOR

It is unlikely you will find a car whose cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so walk away from cracked or peeling varnish. 

OUR VERDICT

The Turbo R is a complex machine, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price but, that said, you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things start to go wrong. Be careful, though, as once you’ve got a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less in the future.

Check out this video of a Bentley Turbo R in Jay Leno's garage:

Bentley

BENTLEY TURBO R REVIEW

How do you improve an already excellent luxury saloon? Strap a whacking great turbo on to it, of course. We sample a tasty classic...

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 in 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is now the luxury bargain of the 21st Century. The best thing is that Turbo Rs make absolute sense as a driving machine too. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser vehicles. If you’re in a post-1990 model complete with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

VITAL STATISTICS

1987 Bentley Turbo R

Engine                                    6750cc/8-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  330bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 480lb ft@2250rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                  7sec

Consumption                            14mpg

Gearbox                                    3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The first Turbo Rs are now 25 years old, so despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to corrosion if the car hasn’t been cared for. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough with your examination. Under the car, front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely.

ENGINE

Pre-1987 carburettor-fed examples are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, unknown on fuel-injected models. Either motor should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided that proper service intervals
have been respected.

Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault, the latter more common on post-1994 cars. Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Cooling leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should find you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign
– a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results, so be on your guard.  

RUNNING GEAR

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used through the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.

Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models. Leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses. 

INTERIOR

It is unlikely you will find a car where the cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these symptoms point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so avoid cracked or peeling varnish. Ensure exterior chrome isn’t pitted – the hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should also be straight and free from scratches.

OUR VERDICT

Turbo Rs are complex machines, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price, but you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things go wrong. Rough examples can have a thirst for cash that’s bigger than their thirst for fuel. Get a good one, however, and it can be astonishing value for money. But be careful – once you’ve acquired a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less.