Browse our range of expert Renault reviews and buyers guides. Get accurate information on features, values, and more.
RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REVIEW
Can’t afford an original R5 Turbo? Happily the Phase 2 GT Turbo offers similar thrills at a fraction of the price. We find out exactly how to bag yourself a good one
The GT Turbo isn’t just a fierce engine stuffed into a shopping car chassis – Renault really went to work on the suspension too. This is a superb handling car, especially the way the front end just dives into corners and then feels nailed to the road.
Sometimes, it’s almost as if it grips too much. At the point where you’re expecting to turn the wheel more to get around a bend, the car actually digs in harder, forcing you to wind-off lock.
Anyone who’s ever driven a Clio 172, or its descendants, will recognise the way the GT Turbo behaves. Add in a sweet, slick gear change and the GT Turbo is a mighty slice of old fashioned fun. It’s one of those rare cars that are incredibly easy to drive hard. The ride is more composed and gentle on Phase 2 cars, which makes the GT Turbo a usable car on the road as well as the track.
It has the desirable qualities of all great hot hatches – it’s exciting, addictive and spurs you into driving it harder.
VITAL STATISTICS
1987 Renault 5 GT TurbO
Engine 1397cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 118bhp@5750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 122lb ft@3750rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 7.3sec
Consumption 28mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The metalwork on these cars is really thin, so look for any covered damage. Wonky panel alignment is fairly common as a result. Regular R5 rust spots are numberous and include along the bottom of the front windscreen, rear window rubbers, rear wheel arches, wings, tailgate, doors and floorpan. Also examine the outer sills, behind the plastic sill extensions, the inner sills and the front jacking points. Other common rust spots are the front and rear bumper mounting points.
ENGINE
The 5 Turbo’s pushrod 1397cc engine is prone to noisy tappets, but this is not something to be unduly worried about. Of more serious concern is a noisy camshaft – evident as a slightly deeper sound than the tappets. This noise means the camshaft is worn and it won’t be long before you have to replace it, an expensive task that involves removing the head itself. An engine that has been serviced regularly and maintains a good oil pressure should easily manage 150,000 miles before rings, main bearings or valve guides need replacing.
On the test drive, be sure to find a series of left and right turns. While going round the corner, listen out for a knocking noise coming from the opposite side you are turning into. This noise indicates a driveshaft in need of replacement. When driving along at about 30mph in fourth gear, open the window and listen for a knocking noise coming from the engine. This is the big end bearings knocking and if you do hear this, then walk away from the car, as a full engine rebuild will be required imminently. Make sure that the car does not misfire when on boost – this could simply be down to incorrect ignition timing or a more serious engine fault. The key to reliability is in accurate fuel set-up, and using super unleaded fuel to prevent pre-detonation. Check what boost is being used and ask lots of questions about how the fuelling has been set up.
RUNNING GEAR
When switching on the ignition, make sure that the oil light, battery light and handbrake light come on, and that the oil pressure gauge shoots up. This acts as an oil level reading until the engine is switched on and then it turns into an oil pressure gauge. When you start the car, make sure that the oil pressure gauge moves up and down with the revs. If the pressure gauge is sitting flat on the bottom of the gauge then it either means there is no oil pressure and that the head gasket has gone, there’s something major internally wrong with the engine, or the gauge is simply not working.
Check that all the electrics inside work as French cars of the 1980s/1990s don’t have the best reputation in this area. The R5 uses a chemical sealant in the front windscreen – they are known for coming away from the rubber because of movement in the A-pillars, so when inside the car gently push the windscreen to see if it moves.
INTERIOR
Interiors are generally hard wearing, but the driver’s seat outer side bolster foam breaks down. New bolsters are still available from Renault, but cheaper replacements can be found easily enough secondhand. If the front seats rock excessively on their mountings, check the two pivot bolts that couple them at the front to their sub frames, as they come loose and can need tightening from time to time. The electric windows are known for being slow, caused by the motor’s old dried-out grease and perished rubber guides. Some time spent cleaning and re-greasing the mechanism can vastly improve things. However, sometimes the cause of the slow windows and central locks is simply corroded electrical connectors. These fail to pass adequate current to operate the motors and replacement for new is required as cleaning has little or no effect.
OUR VERDICT
The Renault 5 GT Turbo is a rare beast on UK roads, so finding one will be difficult and finding a good one even harder. Certain parts are now scarce, meaning they can be very expensive. The simplest advice is to buy the best example your budget will allow, as the cost of refurbishing a duff car is likely to be significantly higher than the price you’ll pay for a decent one in the first place. These cars are still prime targets for thieves, so you’ll definitelty want to look into an upgraded anti-theft system, if this hasn’t been done already. The GT Turbo is a highly usable car, definitely capable of daily driver duties as well as weekend blasts.
RENAULT 5 MK1 REVIEW
Finding one may be the hardest thing, but it will be worth it. We are your guide to the charms and practicalities of owning a Renault 5
The Renault 5 pretty much set the template for the modern supermini and quickly spawned a raft of imitators, including the Ford Fiesta. A combination of chic styling and hatchback practicality attracted over five million buyers – and, if you like the looks, you’ll be equally impressed by the way an R5 goes down the road. Sporty Gordini and Turbo models aside, modest power outputs mean performance is only average but it feels sprightlier than figures suggest.
We’d recommend one of the larger power units, since all offer good economy. Like many French cars of the time, the 5 benefits from soft, long-travel suspension that allows it to glide over urban ruts and potholes – it’s far more comfortable than many other small car offerings, although the penalty is alarming body roll on faster corners. You do get used to it and can soon make the most of the accurate steering and light controls to best enjoy the limited power.
Early cars’ dashboard-mounted gearshift takes
a little more getting used to; the later floor-mounted lever is light and accurate. Another R5 plus point is the interior – it’s somewhat spartan in early incarnations but roomy enough for family duties even if the rear seats are a little tight for the long-legged. The dashboard is logically laid out with easy-to-reach switches located around the instrument binnacle on later models, and just enough dials and warning lights to keep you informed.
The driving position is quite upright but is none the worse for that and most people should be able to get comfortable behind the wheel. It’s worth noting, though, that space in the footwell is a bit tight for larger feet. The R5 is refreshingly honest and fun though, and that’s good enough for us.
VITAL STATISTICS
(based on Renault 5TL)
Engine 1108cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 45bhp@4400rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 63lb ft@3750rpm
Top speed 86mph
0-60mph 20.6sec
Consumption 45mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual
HAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Later cars received better protection but rust is still common on the R5. Check the top and bottom of the front wings (including inners), the bottom of the doors and tailgate, and the leading edge of the bonnet. Examine the rear wheelarches, the sills, front and rear screen surrounds, and the areas around headlamps and fuel filler.
Bubbling under the vinyl roof on later models should be treated with suspicion, and the plastic side cladding can also hide rot. A check of the floorpan is advisable too, especially around the rear suspension mounting points as sill corrosion can easily spread. Finding a complete, solid example is key with the R5 – replacement panels (indeed any exterior trim parts) are incredibly hard to source so restoration is unlikely to be easy.
ENGINE
Engines ranged from an entry-level 845cc ‘Ventoux’ unit through to various larger capacities up to 1.4 litres. The bigger engines were dubbed ‘Sierra.’ All are fundamentally sound if treated to proper maintenance. Alloy cylinder heads mean correct antifreeze levels are vital for longevity – check the whole cooling system as corrosion and leaks lead to overheating and inevitable head gasket failure. Rattling valve gear and perished valve stem oil seals that cause smoke on start-up are issues to watch for. Turbocharged Gordini engines will need extra care – blown turbo plumbing is an expensive fix.
ELECTRICS
Check the electrics. The wiring between body and tailgate is a weak spot and can lead to inoperative lights.
RUNNING GEAR
A four-speed manual gearbox was standard – five-speeders arrived later – and apart from whining bearings or worn synchromesh, should be trouble-free. An obstructive dash-mounted gearlever on early models is most likely a worn linkage – easily sorted. A floor-mounted lever was optional from 1975 and standard from 1978. A three-speed automatic arrived in 1979. Listen for clicking CV joints and check the clutch isn’t slipping – replacement is fiddly as the steering rack sits on top of the forward-mounted gearbox and must be removed before the gearbox can come out.
BRAKES
Wear in bushes and joints apart, the rack and pinion steering is usually trouble-free, and the same goes for the brakes. Most R5s got a disc/drum set-up – early models were drums all round, though Gordini Turbos got discs all round – and basic maintenance will keep things healthy. Note that the handbrake operates on the front wheels on Ventoux-engined cars.
Suspension is by telescopic dampers and torsion bar springs at both ends. Upper and lower front ball joints wear quickly, and you’ll need to check for rot in the torsion bar mounting points and those for the rear trailing arms. The bonded rubber bushes for the latter are now available from France. Wheels on all models used a three-stud fitting with some cars getting alloys as standard – check them for pitting and corrosion.
INTERIOR
Pay attention to trim condition. Original fabric is unavailable and the foam can disintegrate, leading to saggy seats. Damage to dashboard or doorcards will be problematic, too, as replacement interior trim is extremely scarce.
OUR VERDICT
They may be very rare now but there is plenty to like about this fine-riding French hatchback. The comfortable interior and solid mechanicals add to the attraction, making this a fine choice as a small, but stylish, classic. Corrosion worries and lack of parts availability are concerns though, so you’ll need to buy carefully. Find a good one, and you won’t regret it.
RENAULT ALPINE GTA REVIEW
A V6-powered, 2+2 sports coupé, built by a company with impeccable racing heritage – the Renault Alpine GTA made sense in any language.
The Alpine legacy dates back to 1955, when French garage owner Jean Rédélé started to produce his own sports cars based on the rearengined Renault 4CV. Evolving through the iconic A110 rally machine and the A310, the GTA was of the same Renault-engined, plastic-bodied bloodline as previous Alpines.
Thrusting the new car’s sharp-looking plastic body into the Eighties was a 160bhp 2.8 litre V6 engine, driving through a five-speed gearbox and ultra-fat tyres. Fully-independent wishbone suspension and a low-slung rear-engined chassis also charmed the motoring press at the car’s 1984 launch.
In 1985 the GTA Turbo produced an even meatier 200bhp from its 2.5 litre powerplant. A widebodied Le Mans special edition followed, before the reworked 250bhp A610 concluded it all in 1994.
VITAL STATISTICS
1986 Renault GTA V6 Turbo
Engine 2458cc V6 OHC
Power 200bhp@5750rpm
Torque 214lb ft@2500rpm
Top Speed 152mph
0-60mph 6.3sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
On the plus side, the outer body panels are corrosion-free polyester; on the minus side, these panels are bonded to a steel chassis frame, which was never galvanised at the Dieppe factory. As a result, rust can strike in a number of important structural areas, making corrosion checks essential for the GTA buyer.
Check the sills and jacking points, as you would for any car, but also inspect the door pillars. If the doors have dropped, it may be a sign of excessive corrosion in the A-pillars; alternatively, it could simply be down to hinge wear. If it’s an A610 you’re looking at, check the steel front floors for rust, particularly where they meet the front wheel arch liners – the earlier GTA was blessed with grot-free fibreglass floors.
Ensuring the strength and integrity of the chassis is crucial to buying a good example. For this reason, pay close attention to the suspension mounts (includingthe front and rear turrets), in addition to the rear subframe (which, fortunately, can be removed for
repair). Try to check the bulkhead where the steering rack bolts to it – corrosion can lurk here, although this is particularly difficult to spot.
The polyester-based outer panels should be less troublesome, but don’t be tempted to neglect them with your checks. If there are any cracks or splits in the plastic bumpers or front wings, then either specialist repair or replacement could be called for. New replacement panels can be found, but they’re not cheap; second-hand items can still be found, however.
The club can recommend paint specialists should re-finishing be required.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION
The GTA powerplants were based upon the V6 PRV (Peugeot, Renault, Volvo) engine, which powered cars from all three of these marques (as well as less mainstream machines such as Deloreans and Venturis). The upshot of utilising such a well-proven engine is that the GTA mechanicals aren’t known for any particular weaknesses, with the added bonus of having no cam-belts to change (due to the use of timing chains instead). It’s worth checking for signs of head gasket failure, though, simply due to the age of the cars.
While the non-turbo models used a 2.8 litre V6, based on the Renault 30 engine, the Turbo V6 was a 2.5 litre unit familiar to Renault 25 Turbo owners. Neither version gives particular problems, but watch out for smoke from the Turbo – blue smoke from the exhaust hints at turbocharger wear, while plenty of black smoke suggests that the unit will require urgent attention.
As with the engine, the GTA transmission has a reputation for longevity. However, watch out for any clutch judder, which could be due to oil leaking from the gearbox. Don’t under-estimate the work or cost involved in changing a worn-out clutch. The engine has
to be removed to tackle this job and while new clutch kits for the GTA can be sourced for under £200, the kit for the A610 is closer to £500.
STEERING, SUSPENSION AND BRAKES
Check the steering for play, in addition to any knocking or clicking noises, suggesting wear. This can occur in the steering column universal joint, which can only be found second-hand, and while new track rod ends are available, they will set you back over £100 each. Fortunately, the club will be able to offer alternative parts in the near future.
The eight lower rear suspension wishbone bushes will probably need replacing if they haven’t already – Renault charges £132 per bush, but don’t panic as the Club can supply bushes at £30 each. A knocking from the rear when tackling speed bumps is the giveaway for tired bushes. Corrosion-prone lower wishbones will set you back just under £350 each, complete with bushes. Dampers, again, are cheaper through the club, with uprated Spax replacements from £99 (against the £240 of genuine Renault items).
Most GTAs were fitted with 20mm-thick brake discs, which cost about £30 a pair from Motor Factors. Pads are similarly inexpensive at about £10. However, the 22mm discs of later GTAs are only available from Renault, while the 24mm-thick items of the A610 cost a staggering £270 each. Inspect the troublesome rear handbrake callipers, which could require rebuilding.
INTERIOR
Unfortunately, French car electrics gremlins can play havoc with the GTA’s electrical equipment. Being laden with electrical goodies from new means that there’s plenty to go wrong, so don’t be surprised to find non-functioning electric windows, central locking, trip computer or speedometer. Unless you don’t mind breaking out the multi-meter, try to find a car where everything works. Mercifully, the later A610 had most of these problems eliminated, but instead check that the ABS is working correctly.
RENAULT AVANTIME REVIEW
Long-time industry innovator Renault has a great track record of either creating or popularising genres. It launched the MPV, the mini MPV, the mid engined road-rally car, the utilitarian hatch, the smart supermini, and more recently the viable electric car in the form of the Zoe. But when it launched the Matra-built Avantime two-door MPV coupe in 2002, the industry gazed in bewilderment... and promptly ignored it. But it's become a cult car, with a loyal following.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 2946cc/V6/DOHC
Power 210bhp@6000rpm
Torque 206lb ft@3750rpm
Top speed 134mph
0-60mph 8.9sec
Economy 24mpg
Gearbox 5-speed auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
As a rule, the body is fairly rust-resistant. The roof rails are another story though - prone to bubbling and cracking. It's not structural, but it looks a mess. The wheels are Avantime-specific and, while they can be refurbished, the easily-lost centre caps are £50 each. Lubricate that glass sunroof with silicone, or it'll become sticky. Heated screens are no longer available. Check the heater works if you're looking at a Privilege. The radiator support crossbeam is one of the few rust traps on the car, it's not cheap to replace - and that's if you can find one, Check for moisture in the rear lights - the bulb holders rust, and it's only available as a full assembly at £300. And scratched polycarbonate headlamps can be polished out.
ENGINE AND GEARBOX
Two engines were available; the 2.0-litre Turbo and a 3.0-litre V6 from the Laguna. The latter was available with a five-speed manual or automatic; the former was manual only. Both need cambelt changes every five years or 72,000 miles. The V6 is a costlier job and more awkward, the the flip-side to this is that there's no turbo to go wrong. If oil changes are neglected, turbos can fail. The biggest issues with V6s are oil leaks and coil failure. The V6's automatic gearbox is stronger than the manual.
RUNNING GEAR
Rear wheel bearings are a regular failure, but aren't too expensive to replace with parts from £35. All other suspension components are the same as the Espace MkIII. Ageing CV boots can drop-off on full-lock, releasing the grease, so listen out for CV joint failure. Renault charges £900 for an exhaust, so don't be surprised if you view a car with a custom stainless system.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Renaults from this era are not renowned for their electrical robustness. The Avantime was fully stocked, but that can cause worry as they age. You get Xenon headlights, a single disc CD player and climate control as standard, with the Privilege model adding full leather, automatic wipers, CD changer, heated seats, electrically folding mirrors, cruise control, and parking sensors. Make sure they all work, and that all the trim is in good condition. Elastic seat folding mechanisms break - you need to strip the seat to mend them. The Velcro supporting the rear headlining can come loose at the back. Also check the footwell carpets. Staining may mean a leaking heater matrix - there's one per side.
ELECTRICS
CD changers fail frequently, and are Avantime-specific so finding a replacement will be tricky. But the Espace MkIII boot-mounted changer can be used instead. The wiring in the heated seats is frail too - the elements can break under the stress of repeated seat folding, so don't be surprised if these don't work. Check all washers - the rear screen washers suffers from a kinked pipe which can split, can the headlamp washers seize. The bottle needs to be at least one third full for the headlamp washers to work - so don't write them off without checking. The headlamp levelling sensors seize, and the operating arm can snap. And these are an MoT requirement now, so make sure they work. The heater blower speed control can fail, and it's a time consuming and fiddly job. Check it.
OUR VERDICT
Why do you want one? Because you're the sort of person who needs a roomy car that stands out from the crowd, and you have a passion for cult cars. The Avantime ended up being the final car to be built by the eponymous maker of intriguing cars, Matra, so even without its obvious idiosyncracy, this is a car that forms a small, but important footnote in history. For a 10-year-old executive, it's held its price very well indeed, and given its cult status, it's about due a rise. Grab one before they shoot skywards.
RENAULT CARAVELLE REVIEW
1968 Renault Caravelle Introduced to the UK in 1962 as the Caravelle and designed by the Italian studio Frua, this model was built for Renault by Chausson with final assembly and trim, virtually by hand, by Brissoneau and Lotz. The genius of another Italian, engineer Amde Gordini increased the output of the small Dauphine engine somewhat - the larger 1108cc R8 engines in the later Caravelle versions such as this one - producing a brisk and respectable performance, matched with all-round disc brakes. Oozing French Riviera styling, the Caravelle Convertible was not cheap at £1296 against the £582 Morris Minor Convertible - consequently attracting more affluent drivers seeking that little bit of extra style in those swinging sixties. Economy, practicality and personality are the characteristics of this overlooked and rare Sixties classic.
RENAULT CLIO WILLIAMS REVIEW
Our tips on acquiring one of these brilliant hot hatches
The Renault Clio Williams has always had hot hatch credibility thanks to the development input from the Williams F1 team. An F1-endorsed, limited-run hot hatch with gold wheels was just what most boy/girl racers wanted in the mid-1990s. And those same racers, now fully developed, are the people who covet good examples today.
VITAL STATISTICS
Renault Clio Williams
Engine 1994cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 145bhp@6100rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 129lb ft@4500rpm
Top speed 134mph
0-60mph 7.8sec
Consumption 27mpg
Gearbox 5-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The VIN plate is located to the left of the slam panel. Check the rivets and make sure all the numbers match the V5 document – thieves targeted these cars regularly. Rust on the rear arches is common, likewise where the wings meet the bumpers. The fuel filler neck can tell you a lot about the state of the arch, so inspect carefully inside.
As with any classic hot hatch, assume that it’s no stranger to ditches – confirm all the panel gaps are correct. Also scrutinise the boot floor under the carpet – ripples indicate a rear-end shunt. Inspect the doors for rust and, while they’re open, make sure the Williams kick-plates are present. The B-post/sill join is another rot spot – stone chips can develop, so check carefully along the length of both sills. Williams wheels are known for making contact with the arch, but significant damage indicates bigger wheels have been fitted in the past.
ENGINE
First job is to make sure that the correct 2.0-litre engine is fitted. Obvious tell-tales are a thin tubular exhaust manifold and a yellow dipstick with a white dot. These are by no means foolproof, but if a car lacks them, walk away. Rocker cover gaskets leak – not an expensive fix, but you can haggle if there are signs. The engine should idle evenly at 900rpm.
Make sure there’s no oil in the coolant and that it does not contain corrosion. Rusty coolant indicates previous neglect and potential overheating problems. Check the bulkhead and inspect the heat shield. These aren’t cheap to replace.
ELECTRICS
Look at the ECU under the jack in the scuttle panel – water ingress here could mean idling issues. Test all the electrics – the main beam switch and electric windows are common failings. And check the door cards – Williams 1 and Williams 2 cars didn’t have audio system speakers, and these were the only models with these cards. If they’ve been cut, prepare for a long wait for originals.
RUNNING GEAR
Accelerate to 4000rpm on the test drive and then lift off, watching the gear lever for wobble. If this is excessive, new mounts are needed. Jumping out of gear means a new gearbox may be required.
Don’t worry about noisy power steering – the worst case scenario is that you need to either bleed and refill the system or else fit a new pump. Check the fluid level, too. Also inspect the fuel lines where they meet the fuel rail for signs of cracking – if you can smell petrol, there’s trouble. Rattling exhausts will need replacing. Non-OEM replacements are rarely well designed.
INTERIOR
Inspect under the glovebox for a wet carpet and check the heater blows hot – failings here suggest a new heater matrix will be required, which is a labour-intensive and costly fix. Make sure it has the correct blue Clio Williams carpet, and ensure the oil pressure gauge reads 1.2bar at 1000rpm and 3.5bar at 3000rpm. A compression test will be needed if it’s unsatisfactory, though it rises as the
car gets warmer, so low figures on start-up are no concern. The parcel shelf incorporates a carry-case for suits – make sure this is still present.
OUR VERDICT
Because you’re a 1990s boy/girl racer with a little disposable income, some spare space,
and the desire to put a grin on your face. Alternatively, you want to own and drive something special that is appreciating in value. Whatever your logic, Clio Williams aren’t going to get any cheaper. Now’s the time to buy.
RENAULT 4 REVIEW
This practical, individual French icon is a fun classic to own - if you buy wisely.
With the cheapest driveable examples starting around £2000 now's the time to grab this boxy, basic and friendly little car. The Renault 4 was all about cheap practicality and its just as at home fulfilling that role today as it was when launched in 1961. Perfect and early cars are asking £10,000 but just £5000 gets a nice 4 that you can use every day.
The platform chassis design for Renault's first front-wheel drive car arose from the need to include a van model in the range. Renault planned to sell, or rent out, interchangeable plastic van and pick-up bodies - and from this arose a cubic car with a flat floor, large doors and low rear sill. It's precisely this load-lugging versatility that's at the heart of their appeal today.
Nicknamed 'Quatrelle' (ie, 4L) by French owners, the Renault 4 proved extremely successful and was produced or assembled in 27 other countries as far afield as Australia, South Africa and the Philippines.
One curiosity is that the car's wheelbase is shorter on the left than the right because the rear wheels aren't mounted directly opposite one another. This allowed a simple rear suspension of transverse torsion bars located one behind the other that offered great handling and roadholding. It's a fun car to fling around, with small but willing engines making up in noise what they may lack in performance.
The 4L models from 1961 to '67 have the best classic looks, but a three-speed gearbox and six-volt electrics aren't best suited to modern everyday use - especially when coupled with poor parts availability. The post-1968 TL model has the more useable 845cc engine, four-speed gearbox and 12-volt electrics. Although lower-geared than later models and less powerfulthe quality of interior and exterior trim is superior to that of later cars.
The GTL produced from 1984 to 1992 is what you're most likely to find for sale today. The 1108cc engine makes it practical in modern traffic and, provided you can stand the noise, it'll happily do 70mph on the motorway and return about 40mpg.
The Renault 4 has been adopted by those who want a classic car that's inexpensive, easy to maintain, fun to drive and above all practical as an everyday car. Frankly. it's so simple there's little that can go wrong. But there are a few vital checks to make.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: In-line 4cyl, petrol, ohv, 603, 747, 782, 845,956, 1108cc
Power: 22.5-34bhp, 41-55lb ft
Transmission: Three- or four-speed, front-wheel drive
Brakes: Drums or discs front, drums rear
Top speed: 59-78mph
0-60mph: 21-22.6 sec
Fuel consumption: 40mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
Front and rear wings trap moisture so examine them closely. The wings all bolt on and replacements are available. Rust spreads from the top of the outer wing to the inner one but they too bolt on. A repair panel is available for the top inner edge.
Rear wings rust along their top horizontal seam because they were assembled first, then painted - leaving this seam exposed to water. If a replacement rear wing is installed but the seam isn't replaced, the body will rust along the top edge of the wing line. Repair sections are available but will require a talented welder. New bonnets and doors can still be found in France and Belgium.
The bonnet is a large, flat piece so any damage should be obvious. Look for rust, particularly on the lower edge from trapped moisture and neglected stone chips. Windscreen seals trap water, leading to corrosion below the base of the windscreen.
Examine the sills, especially directly in front of the rear wheels. Any bubbling or holes means there's worse below and usually rust in chassis suspension mounts.
Chassis
The biggest trouble spot on the Renault 4 is its chassis, particularly where the rear suspension attaches - corrosion hides in the double-skinned section just to the rear of the inner suspension mounting. It's obscured by the suspension damper and only visible from under the car. If you catch it in time the area can be patch-panelled, but the job should only be done by a specialist. Although a £250 patch repair will get the car through an MoT, the rot will return and the area behind the mounting will likely still be rusty.
Poor repairs using thicker metal can affect rear wheel alignment, leading to rapidly wearing rear tyres. The correct procedure involves taking out the rear suspension, fuel tank and much of the interior then welding in flush new metal.
It's less usual to find rust in the outer suspension mountings - directly in front of the rear wheel - but this area is hard to repair with the body in place. Rot here tends to start from the top, so any corrosion in the wheelarch immediately above the mounting is a clue to condition. The outer section of the chassis is visible just inside the sill panel, and if the panel is wavy or bubbly, or shows signs of cracking or rusting from inside, repairs are required. Brand new galvanised chassis are now available at around £1400. Although floorpans rust, rear seats are easy to remove for a proper inspection; corrosion gets in between the rail and the floorpanand the worst if often hidden. Check carefully around the sill in front of the rear dogleg. In the front, get the floormats up and have a good probe about inside. Patch repairs are relatively straightforward.
Engine and gearbox
All engines are generally hard-wearing. The cooling system contains anti-freeze that was intended to last throughout the car's life - provided that ambient temperatures below minus 40 degrees C are avoided. The problem is that the corrosion inhibitors will be used up after two years and the cooling system clogs up with mucky silt, leading to overheating. So it's recommended that anti-freeze is kept at full strength and replaced every other year, or the engine liner seals deteriorate. This is especially crucial on cars recently imported from a warm climate.
Oil and oil filter changes should be undertaken every 5000 miles. Check the condition of the engine by removing the oil filler cap and examining the valve gear - any sludgy 'mayonnaise' means oil in the water and an engine rebuild - simply changing the cylinder head gasket won't fix it. The head should always be twisted off - not pulled straight up - to prevent damage to liners. Timing chains rattle but rarely fail. Engines can run on unleaded but using an FBHVC-approved additive is strongly recommended if you're doing motorway miles - and 1108 engines like using super unleaded, especially during hot weather.
A heavy or sticky clutch is likely caused by the shaft between the external clutch lever and the release fork seizing, which leads to the release bearing rubber against the clutch backplate, or the bearing seizing. A squirt of penetrating fluid should free it.
PArts for the 845cc engine are particularly in demand because pistons are shared with the Austin 7, whose owners have hoovered up most remaining stock. Parts specialists agree that original/new-old-stock parts are better quality than modern reproductions.
Interior
Vinyl seats are generally good for about 80,000 miles and replacement materials are rare. GTL models had cloth seats, which aren't as strong as the vinyl ones. However, driver and passenger seats are identical so can easily be swapped.
Replacement GTL seat covers, door cards and floor mats can all be obtained from French suppliers. The trim on early (pre-1978 GTL) cars is very difficult to find now, even secondhand, and tracking down seat frames can also be a real struggle.
Only post-1972 cars have mountings for rear seatbelts. Check the belts carefully - alarmingly, the reinforcement section on the outer edge is a common rust trap.
Suspension
Rear dampers mount horizontally and only specific Renault 4 dampers should be used because the rebound rate is about twice the compression rate. Fitting normal dampers will likely result in air bubbles around the valves, preventing the dampers from damping and leading to wheel vibration.
Any damage repair or adjustment to torsion bars is best left to an expert, because it requires a specialist tool.
Axles
Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters - they can split, allowing dirt contamination and causing premature wear. The handbrake mechanism on the TL attaches using caged nuts that can work loose over time. Welding on captive nuts fixes the problem but it's difficult without a lot of stripdown. New caged nuts and threadlock usually solve it.
Fitting a new clutch means unbolting the steering rack - ensure both bolts are replaced because it's not unknown for re-used bolts to later shear off in use.
RENAULT DAUPHINE REVIEW
The first French car to sell two million has all but disappeared. We hunt one down
Few classics are quite as charming as the little rear-engined Dauphine. Its cute looks and practicality endeared it to the masses, and a production line was even set up in Acton, London. It didn’t stop there, with the little Dauphine being produced in many other factories worldwide. It was even sold in America as a rival to the Volkswagen Beetle, thanks in part to its generous seating and economical running.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The rear wheelarches can rot sufficiently to require the entire wing being replaced, at a likely cost of £500. Check also the lower edge of the rear window surround and around the tail lights, where chrome embellishments can trap water and harbour rust. Corrosion also builds behind the headlight rings, upper and lower bodyside trims, grille surround and front and rear bumpers. Get under the car and make sure that the underseal that should have been applied upon arrival in the UK is present and correct; budget £400 for fresh application.
ENGINE
The 845cc, four-cylinder engine may only have a three-bearing crankshaft, but it was used to power Renault 5s in the 1980s. There is no oil filter, so regular changes are absolutely essential – every 1500 miles. A good anti-freeze should be used too. Regular Dauphines had 30-31bhp, upped to 38/40 for the Gordini, which uses a different cylinder head.
RUNNING GEAR
Most Dauphines have a three-speed gearbox, though four-speeds were later optional and standard on the Gordini. They’re pretty tough, but failing synchromesh and/or worn linkages can make crunch-free gearchanges very difficult. Driveshafts rarely give trouble unless the engine has been significantly tuned. Brakes are usually all-drum, but an all-disc set-up became available on Gordinis from 1964 and was briefly optional on Dauphines before production ended. Note that the front tyre pressures are exceptionally low – just 15psi – so don’t be surprised if they look squishy. Tyres can be expensive – around £100 each.
INTERIOR
Finding trim is tricky as there was a surprising range of interior colours. The rubber edging on the doors can degrade but can be replaced by plastic or cloth. Electrics were initially 6v, later 12v. There’s nothing wrong with the 6v electrics, but it’s imperative that everything is in good order. Dirty connectors or dynamo brushes can cause issues, but are usually easily sorted.
OUR VERDICT
The Dauphine has a reputation as an ill-handling death trap, which really is a bit unfair. Like a Porsche 911, you do need to treat it with respect but unlike a 911, there’s not really enough power to get yourself into a real mess. Few are likely to use a Dauphine to push the limits today and with consideration for the physics, you can drive one quite briskly with no drama. Prices have been rising, thanks to a low survival rate and serious charm.
RENAULT 16 REVIEW
It was a revolution in family car design - and still cuts a dash today...
The Renault 16, in many ways, was the template for the modern car - and it's hard to believe when looking at it that it celebrated its 50th birthday in 2015. But with front-wheeled drive, and a five-door hatchback layout, it could do the same job as your Mondeo - but with added flair and panache. It is both roomy and good to drive, and as long as you find a good example, you'll be rewarded with a classic car that turns heads, and rewards keen drivers who value comfort and tenacious handling as a priority.
The Gallic equivalent to the Austin Maxi is not without its faults, though - and certainly new drivers will take time to acclimatise to its generous body roll in bends and that idiosyncratic dash-mounted gearchange. But once mastered, anyone who loves cars will not fail to fall for this forward-thinking family car.
Being a Renault, parts and specialist support is less straightforward than, say, an MG or Triumph, but with a great owners' club, and an enthusiastic band of specialists who deal with them, you'll get what you need in the worst case scenario - eventually. So, buy a rust-free example, enjoy classic driving with a modern twist - and bask in the joy of not seeing another at a classic car event.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 1647cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power: 93bhp@6000rpm
Torque: 95lb ft@4000rpm
Maximum speed: 110mph
0-60mph: 11.5sec
Fuel consumption: 26-30mpg
Transmission: FWD, five-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Put your structure first
The number one priority in any potential Renault 16 purchase is the condition of its body. Never, ever underestimate this car's ability to rot - and just about anywhere. Although it's a relatively sturdy structure, serious rust can take its toll in all places - so have a good poke in the engine bay, especially the inner wings. Then, examine the inner and outer sills, A-posts, the area around the jacking points, and finally, the structure around the rear suspension mounts and the rear inner hweel arches, as this is crucially important to the car's continued survival and viability as a restoration project - repairs in this area are very much a complex specialist job.
Now check the outers
Once you've ascertained that the structure is sound, and won't bend at the first sign of a pothole, take a close look at the bvase of the front wings (not easy to get hold of), and the door bottoms. Then, check the front and rear valance - these are cosmetic repairs, but hard to do well.
Running gear pointers
After all that corrosion-based horror, the good news is that the engine and running gear are very sturdy indeed. The 1470, 1565 and 1647cc all-alloy overhead valve engines were shared with a number of other Renaults, so basic parts availability is good. Some model-specific items can be hard to track down - don't under-estimate minor failures, such as condensers or points. Also, headgasket replacement is an involved job, so make sure any car you look at is running well and doesn't pressure up.
Electrics
Generally easy to sort - and not trouble-free, but the TX's electric windows can be troublesome to keep operating smoothly. Other than that, watch for bad earths causing lighting and general operational problems.
Inside story
Unsurprisingly, minor trim items are tough to find, so make sure it's complete and in good order. The vinyl interiors are long-lived and rugged, but cloth seats are a real pain to repair if damaged, and aren't very durable.
OUR VERDICT
Why do you want one? Because you're an individualist, and want to drive a car that is more clever than the obvious classic choices. There are many Renault 16 variants to choose from, and all will cut a dash wherever you take them. The original 1965 1470cc versions are capable and economical, but the TS from 1968, with the more powerful 1565cc engine offers plenty more entertainment. We'd go for the fabulous R16 TX, the ultimate version, which was sold between 1973 and 1980 - it sports 93bhp, a five-speed gearbox, and sprints to 110mph. It's practically a hot hatch, but a wonderfully comfortable one at that.