Reviews — Classic Cars For Sale

GTA

RENAULT ALPINE GTA REVIEW

A V6-powered, 2+2 sports coupé, built by a company with impeccable racing heritage – the Renault Alpine GTA made sense in any language.
The Alpine legacy dates back to 1955, when French garage owner Jean Rédélé started to produce his own sports cars based on the rearengined Renault 4CV. Evolving through the iconic A110 rally machine and the A310, the GTA was of the same Renault-engined, plastic-bodied bloodline as previous Alpines.
Thrusting the new car’s sharp-looking plastic body into the Eighties was a 160bhp 2.8 litre V6 engine, driving through a five-speed gearbox and ultra-fat tyres. Fully-independent wishbone suspension and a low-slung rear-engined chassis also charmed the motoring press at the car’s 1984 launch.
In 1985 the GTA Turbo produced an even meatier 200bhp from its 2.5 litre powerplant. A widebodied Le Mans special edition followed, before the reworked 250bhp A610 concluded it all in 1994.


VITAL STATISTICS

1986 Renault GTA V6 Turbo
Engine 2458cc V6 OHC
Power 200bhp@5750rpm
Torque 214lb ft@2500rpm
Top Speed 152mph
0-60mph 6.3sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

On the plus side, the outer body panels are corrosion-free polyester; on the minus side, these panels are bonded to a steel chassis frame, which was never galvanised at the Dieppe factory. As a result, rust can strike in a number of important structural areas, making corrosion checks essential for the GTA buyer.
Check the sills and jacking points, as you would for any car, but also inspect the door pillars. If the doors have dropped, it may be a sign of excessive corrosion in the A-pillars; alternatively, it could simply be down to hinge wear. If it’s an A610 you’re looking at, check the steel front floors for rust, particularly where they meet the front wheel arch liners – the earlier GTA was blessed with grot-free fibreglass floors.
Ensuring the strength and integrity of the chassis is crucial to buying a good example. For this reason, pay close attention to the suspension mounts (includingthe front and rear turrets), in addition to the rear subframe (which, fortunately, can be removed for
repair). Try to check the bulkhead where the steering rack bolts to it – corrosion can lurk here, although this is particularly difficult to spot.
The polyester-based outer panels should be less troublesome, but don’t be tempted to neglect them with your checks. If there are any cracks or splits in the plastic bumpers or front wings, then either specialist repair or replacement could be called for. New replacement panels can be found, but they’re not cheap; second-hand items can still be found, however.
The club can recommend paint specialists should re-finishing be required.

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

The GTA powerplants were based upon the V6 PRV (Peugeot, Renault, Volvo) engine, which powered cars from all three of these marques (as well as less mainstream machines such as Deloreans and Venturis). The upshot of utilising such a well-proven engine is that the GTA mechanicals aren’t known for any particular weaknesses, with the added bonus of having no cam-belts to change (due to the use of timing chains instead). It’s worth checking for signs of head gasket failure, though, simply due to the age of the cars.
While the non-turbo models used a 2.8 litre V6, based on the Renault 30 engine, the Turbo V6 was a 2.5 litre unit familiar to Renault 25 Turbo owners. Neither version gives particular problems, but watch out for smoke from the Turbo – blue smoke from the exhaust hints at turbocharger wear, while plenty of black smoke suggests that the unit will require urgent attention.
As with the engine, the GTA transmission has a reputation for longevity. However, watch out for any clutch judder, which could be due to oil leaking from the gearbox. Don’t under-estimate the work or cost involved in changing a worn-out clutch. The engine has
to be removed to tackle this job and while new clutch kits for the GTA can be sourced for under £200, the kit for the A610 is closer to £500.

STEERING, SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

Check the steering for play, in addition to any knocking or clicking noises, suggesting wear. This can occur in the steering column universal joint, which can only be found second-hand, and while new track rod ends are available, they will set you back over £100 each. Fortunately, the club will be able to offer alternative parts in the near future.
The eight lower rear suspension wishbone bushes will probably need replacing if they haven’t already – Renault charges £132 per bush, but don’t panic as the Club can supply bushes at £30 each. A knocking from the rear when tackling speed bumps is the giveaway for tired bushes. Corrosion-prone lower wishbones will set you back just under £350 each, complete with bushes. Dampers, again, are cheaper through the club, with uprated Spax replacements from £99 (against the £240 of genuine Renault items).
Most GTAs were fitted with 20mm-thick brake discs, which cost about £30 a pair from Motor Factors. Pads are similarly inexpensive at about £10. However, the 22mm discs of later GTAs are only available from Renault, while the 24mm-thick items of the A610 cost a staggering £270 each. Inspect the troublesome rear handbrake callipers, which could require rebuilding.

INTERIOR

Unfortunately, French car electrics gremlins can play havoc with the GTA’s electrical equipment. Being laden with electrical goodies from new means that there’s plenty to go wrong, so don’t be surprised to find non-functioning electric windows, central locking, trip computer or speedometer. Unless you don’t mind breaking out the multi-meter, try to find a car where everything works. Mercifully, the later A610 had most of these problems eliminated, but instead check that the ABS is working correctly.

ALFA ROMEO 156 GTA REVIEW

Charismatic and hair-raisingly quick, the 156 GTA offers plenty of performance for the money. Here's what to look for if you're looking to buy..

 

The 156’s curvaceous lines, appetite for a good corner and the weight of expectation brought by wearing an Alfa Romeo badge meant it was only a matter of time before press-on drivers were treated to a proper sporting derivative.

Launched at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 2001 and introduced here in May 2002, the GTA dropped the manufacturer’s sonorous 3.2-litre V6 behind the 156’s V-shaped grille, deploying 247bhp to the front wheels. Developed alongside the smaller 147 GTA – with which it shared its engine – the 156 GTA represents value for money, considering they weighed in at a hefty £27k when they were new.

It may have had a wider track, lower ride height and revised steering geometry than the rest of the range, but it’s still a driver’s car dominated by the nose-heavy – but wonderfully melodic – powerplant.

Sadly, its production stint was short-lived – both it and the 147 GTA were canned in 2005 when the 3.2-litre V6 was unable to meet emissions regulations.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      3179cc/V6/DOHC

POWER                       247bhp@6200rpm

TORQUE                     221lb ft@4800rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED        155mph

0-60MPH                    6.3sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION  23-30mpg

TRANSMISSION         FWD, 6-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Check the water pump

The V6’s coolant is circulated by a plastic impellor, which is known to split and then fail altogether with age. Replacing it is a tricky – and expensive – job that requires removing the cambelt, tensioner and idler pulleys, so check through the history to see if a previous owner has replaced it. Switching the GTA’s plastic part with the metal one from the GTV is a common swap.

 

Has the cambelt been changed?

It’s recommended the belt is checked at 36,000 miles and replaced completely at 72,000 miles, but as it’s not an easy part to access some owners hold out for longer. It’s a similar story with oil filters – it’s awkward but not impossible to get at, but make sure previous owners haven’t neglected changing it.

 

Try that clutch

Clutches tend to last at least 70,000 miles, but replacing them is a fiddly job that involves taking out the front suspension and subframe to get access. A car that’s had the work done is a plus, but if you can’t find proof then check for a heavy pedal feel or a biting point that’s very high up. A worn clutch slave cylinder will also manifest itself through pedal feel, but it’s a cheaper and easier fix.

 

Is it a track day car?

The GTA’s rampant performance and affordability mean there are plenty that have been thrashed at track days. On cars made before November 2003 – which are fitted with 305mm front brake discs – brake juddering will often indicate whether the car’s had a hard life. It’s also worth listening for creaks or knocks from the front suspension, which is usually a anti-roll bar sliding around due to worn bushes.

 

Has the bonnet been fixed?

Both the 156 and its 147 sibling were issued with safety recalls due to failing bonnet catches, which can cause the bonnet to fly open at speed. Check the car’s history to see whether a dealer’s looked at your car in the past – early ones had a plastic catch, and while the later metal items are better it didn’t completely eradicate the problem, so make sure the bonnet closes properly and that it’s been greased regularly. In very rare incidents, the roof may have been damaged as a result of an errant bonnet – check for signs of rust around the top of the windscreen.

 

OUR VERDICT

Unlike its primarily German opposition – and mass-market rivals like Ford’s Mondeo ST220 and Vauxhall’s Vectra GSI – the 156 GTA majors on charisma. You’d never tire of listening to the noise the 3.2-litre V6 makes or the trouble Alfa goes to with the visual details, like the chromed inlet manifolds, the 17-inch teledial alloy wheels and the individual dashboard pods for the instruments.

It’s a charismatic sports saloon that rewards a fastidious owner – there is no point in skimping crucial servicing because some of the parts are tricky to reach. It’s also in the price doldrums at the moment, so now’s the time to buy one before prices start going up.