When the Alfa Romeo 156 arrived in 1997 it charmed us with its exciting interior, hidden rear door handles and range of peppy engines. As well as three variable-timing Twin Sparks, there were two diesels and the old faithful V6, transformed into something modern by an extra pair of camshafts and 24 valves.
ALFA ROMEO SPIDER DUETTO REVIEW
Chic and sleek, Italy’s best-loved boat-tail roadster, the Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto, catches our eye...
The Spider Duetto doesn’t only look fantastic, but it is well known for offering a brilliantly composed and involving driving experience. The 1570cc twin cam engine is rated as one of the best of the era, providing plenty of power in a high-revving package, all of which is only enhanced by the wonderfully sporty engine note, even on stock examples. From 1967, the engine was uprated to 1779cc, which provided an additional 11bhp.
The fantastic engine is mated to a truly inspired chassis, which is one of the main reasons the car handles as well as it does. With minimal sympathetic suspension upgrades, the car drives as if it’s on rails, and is much more planted through the bends than period rivals such as the MGB roadster.
VITAL STATISTICS
Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto
Engine 1570cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 107bhp@6000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 103lb ft@2800rpm
Top speed 113mph
0-60mph 11.3sec
Consumption 28mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Duettos are prone to rot because the bodywork was assembled before the primer was applied. Inner sills are particularly susceptible and, being structural, this is a serious problem. Get a potential purchase on a ramp and have a look from below. If there’s any sign of crustiness or sogginess, walk away. Don’t be put off by fresh underseal, as it may be covering up paper-thin metal. If new sills are required, the cost is huge: both wings have to be chopped when replacing the sills, adding to the cost.
Wheelarches are prone to corrosion, so feel all around the inner arches for signs of rust and don’t be afraid to poke and prod. Once again, be wary of fresh underseal. Make sure you inspect the boot floor for signs of corrosion; any rust bubbling through is likely to be worse underneath. When the car is on the ramp, check the front crossmember behind the radiator both for rust and signs of welding. It is a muck and water trap and will more than likely need repair if it hasn’t already been done.
ENGINE
All Duettos were fitted with Alfa’s four-pot twin cam with an all-alloy engine block, which is sweet-revving and smooth-running, but they’re fragile if not cared for. Oil should be changed every 3000 miles, so look for a frequent service history, and ensure good oil has been used. Overheating leads to head gasket failure, so check the coolant for oil and inspect the oil filler cap for mayonnaise while the engine is cool. Let the engine warm up, keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. After a decent test drive, check the oil filler cap for mayonnaise again.
Check the side of the engine block for any oil leaks or streaks down its flanks. If three lines of oil can be seen then the O-rings below the camshaft bearings are shot. Be wary if the block looks too clean andbe sure to check it again after you’ve been for a test drive. Inspect the air filter for signs of oil from the breather pipe – this is a good indication that the block will require a costly rebuild. If so, walk away.
RUNNING GEAR
Running gear is typical Italian build quality of the era: not great. Steering and suspension bushes are susceptible to wear, so will have been replaced in anything nicer than a project car. Check that high quality replacements were used, as inferior parts are common. If the rear wheels have too much play, it is likely to be the trunnion bushes – count on needing nylon replacements if this hasn’t already been done. Metalastik bushes in the suspension wishbones are a weakness, seizing up after water damage. This is a common fault and a big job to put right, so look for evidence of repair in the history file.
INTERIOR
Inspect the front floorpan on both driver and passenger sides. Lift any carpet and rubber mats, and if there are any rust patches or holes, walk away. Inspect the seat runners, particularly where they bolt to the floor. Also check for signs of damp – a leaking hood is a death sentence for a Duetto, eating away at the sills and floorpan. Check below the bottom of the doors, pulling back any rubber trim as water can become trapped beneath the rubber.
Original interiors are rare and expensive to re-upholster, so check their condition; if the interior is non-original this will affect resale value. Electrics are typically Italian so check that everything is in working order. Gremlins can be a pain to fix, especially if you’re paying an electrician their hourly rate.
OUR VERDICT
Perhaps one of the most instantly recognisable of the Alfa Romeos, the Spider Duetto is also one of the prettiest. It enjoys a fashionable reputation unlike any other model, and has been synonymous with sexy chic ever since it first rolled off the production line in 1966.
As much a style icon as a sports car, you can’t really go wrong with a Duetto and they also make a brilliant investment, providing you get a good one. If you’re not an expert, then it’s best to take one with you when viewing. Cheap cars can be dressed up to look like superb examples, but will most likely hide serious bodywork and mechanical issues that will cost a fortune to put right. As long as you buy wisely you’re unlikely to lose money, and you’ll have an involving and exciting roadster to enjoy throughout the summer.
There’s very little that exemplifies continental chic more stylishly than a Series 1 Alfa Romeo Spider Duetto. Architect-turned-TV-presenter Francesco da Mostro and celebrity chef Antonio Carluccio have both driven the sleek Alfa drop-tops on telly recently while showcasing the delights of Italy. Nothing seems to encapsulate the beauty of Italy – its food, fashion and people – as this old Alfa ragtop.
Early boat-tail Duettos are easily the most desirable of the four incarnations of the car, the model that represents Pininfarina’s design at its purest. Unlike later cars, the Spider Duetto is almost timeless – it tugs on the heartstrings and can turn even the most partisan classic enthusiast misty-eyed. It’s not without its problems, but all that is forgiven as you blast along the road on a summer’s evening, the engine singing and the wind in your hair. There are cheaper and more reliable alternatives, but for sheer pleasure of ownership, nothing else will even come close.
ALFA ROMEO 155 REVIEWS
Is it time for the Alfa 155 to emerge from the shadows? Remember its Touring Car Championship heyday, then decide...
The 155 was the first Alfa built under Fiat ownership, and the first big Alfa with front-wheel drive, being based on the Tipo platform. IDEA did the wedge-shaped styling. Introduced in 1992, the 155 came initially with Alfa-designed engines; in the UK, we had 1.8 and 2.0 four-cylinder engines, plus a 2.5-litre V6.
From 1995, the Series II cars had wider front tracks, developed from and for racing, and front wing blisters to cover them. They also had two new four-cylinder engines, both with 16-valve Alfa heads and variable inlet cam timing on Fiat blocks.
Rather special were the Cloverleaf model (Lancia Integrale four-wheel drive system plus 190bhp turbocharged 16-valve 2.0-litre) and the 1994 homologation-special Silverstone edition, with adjustable rear spoiler and extendable front air splitter plus the 1.8-litre engine.
VITAL STATISTICS
ALFA ROMEO 155 2.0 16-valve
Engine 1970cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 150bhp@6200rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 138lb ft@4000rpm
Top speed 130mph
0-60mph 8.9sec
Consumption 34mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Sadly, the 155 conforms to the Italian stereotype in that it rusts. It’s not as bad as earlier monocoque Alfas, but you should start by checking round the wheelarch lips, especially at the rear. Open the boot and look around – a damp smell means you should investigate carefully. Although these cars were all undersealed from new, the application seems to have been a bit half-hearted. You’d be wise to get a 155 up on a hoist and have a good poke around with a screwdriver underneath.
Check the paint, too. A lot of 155s suffer from paint that fades, blisters or loses its lacquer. The cost of a respray will likely exceed the value of the car.
ENGINE
All the four-cylinders are Twin Spark types, and some noise from camshaft and tappets is common but not serious. Only purists will prefer the two-valve types to the later four-valvers, which are more driveable. The penalty is that the later engines have belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need to be changed every 36,000 miles or three years. You have to change the belt for the balancer shaft at the same time. With high mileages comes the need to change the pulleys, tensioners and variator (which alters the timing of the inlet camshaft). Crank position sensors can fail, leaving non-starters. You need to know the service history of these engines.
The V6 is a smaller-capacity derivative of the classic engine that powered the 164 saloons and GTV coupés, and makes glorious noises. Loud noises from the downpipes are unwelcome, though, as they are expensive to replace. Check carefully for overheating, as water pump impellers can crack, and early engines had strange sealing arrangements which give way. Again, these are belt-driven engines and changing the belts is a notoriously difficult job that’s best left to specialists.
RUNNING GEAR
The gearchange should be slick and the clutch light. Beware of clutch troubles because the engine and gearbox have to come out together for major work. The steering on post-1995 cars (but not the V6) was changed for a faster rack, and this later one is a joy to use. Brakes are discs all round (ventilated at the front), and should need only very light pedal pressure. Enthusiastically-driven cars may well need new discs, so take a good look.
If the steering doesn’t feel right, or the car seems to wander, there will be problems in the front suspension. Bushes and ball-joints are best seen as consumables and aren’t particularly costly. Be prepared to change the front wishbones in their entirety, and listen for a knocking on corners which may indicate worn anti-roll bar bushes.
INTERIOR
The interior has a sporty ambience, with velour upholstery and it features wood on the Super models. Check that all the switches do what they should, because electrical problems (especially with relays) are common. If the car has a sunroof, check that it works properly.
OUR VERDICT
The Alfa 155 is one of those distinctive cars from the early 1990s that haven’t yet acquired classic status. They have gained a kind of cult status, though, and that’s a double-edged sword. Some are being properly looked after, while others are being run into the ground just because they are cheap and ‘different’. So you should bear all that in mind before jumping head-first into ownership. Buy one because you like the car, because you’d always wanted one when you were younger, or because you want distinctive everyday transport. Don’t expect to make money on it in the short term, but do enjoy it for what it is.
ALFA ROMEO ALFASUD REVIEW
Full of promise, the Alfasud showed what a hot hatch could be before it even gained a hatchback. If only it hadn’t rusted so badly.
The little Alfasud’s design set standards for small saloons despite the questionable build quality. Giugiaro’s fastback body was attractive, and came with four doors from the 1971 start or as a two-door TI with twin-carb engines from 1974. Hatchbacks were unforgivably late arrivals in 1981. By then, the car had been facelifted with plastic fairings.
Engines were always flat-fours driving the front wheels, starting with 1186cc, then 1286cc, 1490cc and 1350cc. Production ended in 1983, giving way to the Alfa 33.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1490cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 93bhp@5800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 96lb ft@4000rpm
Top speed 115mph
0-60mph 10.1sec
Consumption 30mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The Alfasud’s pretty little body was its undoing, especially on early cars. Corrosion protection improved from 1982, but before then was almost non-existent.
Rust on the main panels will be obvious, as will rust on the sills, which are structural. Underneath, beware of newly-applied underseal!
Check the whole front panel, the inner wings, behind the headlights, and the front chassis ‘legs’. Front footwells rot out if the windscreen has leaked. The door bottoms rust through when their drain holes are blocked, and the panel below the side windows rots on two-door cars.
At the rear, have a good look in the wells on either side of the boot floor, examine the area around the jacking points (just ahead of the wheelarches), and look at the under-bumper valance. Watch for rust breaking out behind the plastic body addenda on later cars; it’s hard to see in the early stages, but check you must!
ENGINE
The Alfasud engines were flat-fours with a single overhead camshaft, and a surprisingly "interesting" exhaust note which sounds very Italian! The TI models have twin carburettors and can be prone to rough idling. Early engines were smoother than the later, larger-capacity types.
Oil and cambelt changes (there are two belts) are absolutely critical to the long-term survival of an Alfasud engine, so when buying you need to see the service history or at least assess the likely diligence of the seller in attending to maintenance. Listen for a harsh rattle on start-up which indicates that the bearings are on the way out. The same noise at 3000rpm from a hot engine confirms the problem.
RUNNING GEAR
All the gearboxes are manuals, with four speeds on lesser models and five speeds on TIs and other later cars. They are fairly tough but become noisy as wear sets in, and may lose second-gear synchromesh. They are always noisy at idle. The change is sporty, with a short throw, and should be quite slick. Do make sure that there are no problems with the clutch, because a clutch change demands taking the engine out.
The inboard front discs are not easy to work on; access is particularly restricted on the later twin-carburettor cars. That has inevitably led owners to leave pad changes to the very last minute, and so scored discs are a fairly common malady. So is oil on the discs, thrown out from engine or gearbox.
INTERIOR
The dashboard is pretty uninspiring stuff, while the seats have very 1970s fabric upholstery although they are comfortable enough. Disappointingly, the rear backrest does not fold forwards on the 1980s hatchback models. The driving position is relatively inflexible, too; you’ll either fit or you won’t!
Expect squeaks and rattles from the plastic trim.
OUR VERDICT
You’ll want an Alfasud because there is just so much about the design that is spot-on. It’s a practical little saloon with enough room for the kids or the in-laws, and it doesn’t advertise its fun quotient.
Yet it delivers that fun by the bucket-load, thanks to a lovely rorty exhaust note, tight front-wheel drive handling, quick rack-and-pinion steering and rapid acceleration.
Alfa Romeo GTV/SPIDER 916 REVIEW
It may be one of the cheapest routes into classic Alfa ownership, but is the 916-series GTV a safe bet? We find out...
The coupé and Spider tend to appeal to different driving styles. The soft-top is arguably at its very best in V6 guise, the better to hear that amazing howl and tune out the inevitable scuttle shake and understeer-prone handling. As such, it works best as a quasi-grand tourer, and suits a more laid-back driving style.
Hardcore drivers, meanwhile, tend to gravitate to the 2.0-litre Twin Spark coupés – this is an engine that simply begs to be revved hard, and its lighter weight renders the front-drive handling less prone to pushing on ahead in the corners. Factor in the greater shell rigidity offered by the coupé body and an engine noise that’s almost – but not quite – a match for the V6, and it’s noticeably the better driver’s car.
It’s wise to try before you bu, though. The cabin might look amazing, – especially when swathed in ribbed Momo leather – but the driving position is still very Italian and doesn’t suit everyone, with taller drivers in particular often finding it difficult to get comfortable in the coupé.
VITAL STATISTICS
1997 ALFA ROMEO GTV 2.0 TWIN SPARK
Engine 1970cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 155bhp@6400rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 138lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 134mph
0-60mph 8.4sec
Consumption 32mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
For once, there should be no evidence of rust anywhere on any of these cars, since they were galvanised at the factory, and every panel forward of the scuttle beneath the windscreen is made from a special plastic composite. A damaged bonnet clamshell is bad news, since it is pricey to replace. Rot anywhere else on a 916 can only be as a result of badly-repaired accident damage, so walk away. Likewise if you find uneven panel gaps, panel bolts that have obviously been disturbed or overspray.
Look down both flanks and check for impact damage. GTVs left the factory with no bodyside protection mouldings and so are vulnerable to unwanted attentions of neighbouring parked cars. Dents in the characteristic bodyside slash are particularly tricky to repair, so adjust the asking price to suit. Fading paint – especially on red cars – and lifting lacquer are common. A localised re-spray is the only answer.
ENGINE
Low oil on the dipstick points to indifferent maintenance, which is bad news on the Twin Spark engine in particular since it is known to use oil and requires weekly inspection. A loud rattling on 2.0-litre cars from cold means the cam variator is not long for this world. Oil cooler pipes corrode on V6s and are difficult to replace – expensive, too, since the radiator usually needs replacing at the same time.
Ask for evidence of cambelt changes. Alfa Romeo dictates 72,000-mile intervals for both 2.0-litre and V6 cars, but the general consensus is that they should be replaced every 36,000 miles. A full service history is a must, too – many owners fail to twig that a Twin Spark engine has twice the number of spark plugs usually fitted to a ‘four’, which in turn bumps up servicing costs. Any corner-cutting here will do the engine no good. A car that feels down on power probably just needs a new air flow meter.
ELECTRICS
Only buy a car that’s missing its brown master ignition key if you are absolutely sure of its provenance (or the car is extremely cheap), since rectifying a problem as simple as a flat battery can soon lead to big bills without it. Make sure you have the security code for the stereo, too.
RUNNING GEAR
Running gear is pretty bullet-proof, so graunching gearshifts point to a neglected or routinely badly-driven car. Clutches that only bite at the very top of the pedal travel are overdue replacement and only keep going by dint of their self-adjusting design. An excessively heavy clutch pedal on a V6 is often evidence of a slipping friction plate.
Noticeable slop in the corners (especially if accompanied by an irritatingly loud squeak) is almost certainly doesn to worn suspension bushes. This is a particular problem on 2.0-litre cars since the rear bush contains a steel insert that, if left for long enough, will eat into the aluminium subframe.
BRAKES
Make sure that the three main self-diagnostic dashboard warning lights (for the engine management system, airbags and anti-lock braking system) go out shortly after you start the engine. If they remain on (or don’t come on at all), then either the dashboard lights have failed or (more likely) there’s bad news lurking within one or more of these systems.
INTERIOR
Interior trim is generally pretty durable, but the side bolster eventually wears on the driver’s seat, whether it’s vinyl or leather trim. Make sure everything – windows, mirrors, air conditioning, stereo, sunroof – operates as it should. Failure to work could be down to something as simple as a blown fuse, but could also be indicative of something more serious.
OUR VERDICT
As with most Alfas, you tend to buy a 916 more with your heart than your head. You certainly don’t buy one for practicality, since the cabin is essentially a two-seater (token rear seats aside) and the boot is capable of swallowing a folding toothbrush, but not much else. No, the 916 unashamedly plucks at your heart strings, with its slash-sided Pinifarina-designed flanks and potent, tuneful engines.
They’re temptingly priced, too – most of the best ones won’t set you back by much over £5000, good foot-soldiers command no more than a couple of grand and, for those in possession of brave pills, serviceable ones are readily available for under £1000.
All generate addictive, sonorous top-end power, but the Twin Spark models tend to be more popular since they’re generally acknowledged as the better handler and cost less to run.
Actually, who are we kidding? Hang the expense, get yourself a soulful V6, and move into a house built next to a nice, long tunnel!
A 916 GTV can be hugely rewarding, offering as it does a brilliant steer and blinding value for money. Buy carefully, though – they’re colour-sensitive, so cars painted anything other than Alfa Red, black or silver can be hard to sell on again. Likewise, Alfisti prefer a leather interior and Teledial alloy wheels above all else. The pick of the crop? Budget £3000 on an early (pre- facelift) solid red/black leather GTV coupé 2.0.
ALFA ROMEO 164 REVIEW
The 164 has three siblings in the form of the Fiat Croma, Saab 9000 and Lancia Thema. In truth, the development was not as shared as it might be, and the Alfa boasts the most redefined body – courtesy of Pininfarina. It was the first successful big Alfa, and with good reason. The front-wheel drive chassis was sublime, it was filled with toys that actually worked and you could feel that typical Alfa Romeo passion every time you climbed aboard.
Depreciation was tragic. The secondhand market was not convinced about the car’s abilities and that image remains. Ignore the naysayers though – this is one of the most underrated cars of all time. Engine choices are a perky twin-spark four-cylinder or the glorious V6 in different tunes – the 230bhp Cloverleaf 24v being the most potent and desirable.
VITAL STATISTICS
Alfa Romeo 164 V6 Cloverleaf 24v
Engine 2959cc/6-cyl/QOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 230bhp@6300rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 207lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 152mph
0-60mph 7.7sec
Consumption 20-25mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
A large proportion of the 164 was galvanised, so typical Italian-esque rust was virtually banished. The key rot area is the rear wheelarches – easily visible when you open the rear door. Corrosion here can spread to the sills and restoration costs can quickly add up. Underneath, check the front subframe – it can be very costly to repair. The rear crossmember can suffer too, though replacement is not tricky. The front fog lights are vulnerable to cracking, and mirror mounts lose their paint due to electrolytic reaction.
ENGINE
All engines are tough and reliable if looked after, so service history is essential if the price is high. The Twin Spark has a timing chain which can rattle, but replacement is simple. The timing belt replacement on the V6 is not so easy due to limited access and special tools needed. It needs changing every 30,000 miles. Ask when it was last done and budget on a specialist charging at least £400. The fuel injection systems are generally reliable, but make sure the engine is cold before starting it up – the vendor may be trying to mask a cold start issue if the engine feels warm. The radiator can fall apart, and check that the cooling fan cuts in. When air-con is fitted, the slow speed fan can fail. Cook one of these engines and the head gaskets are fairly certain to blow.
The manual gearbox is generally reliable, but the clutch can feel heavy. They were like that from new. The automatic transmission is by German manufacturer, ZF and generally fault-free. Watch for slipping in gear or thumping changes. Note that the auto model has a very poor turning.
RUNNING GEAR
Worn bushes and springs will create a dreadful ride and sloppy handling. Watch for a front end that seems too low and any knocking on the move. Brakes are merely adequate, and little-used examples can suffer from binding calipers. Feel the wheels after a test drive to see if one feels hotter than the others. Any juddering through the pedal suggests warped discs.
The Cloverleaf has adaptive damping. When it fails, it defaults to Sport mode, giving an overly firm ride but still displaying ‘Normal’ on the display. It’s tricky and expensive to put right.
INTERIOR
Make sure everything works, including the electric release for the boot. The heater controls feature electrically driven cogs, which can fail. Door window motors can slow down with age and where fitted, electric seat motors can seize through lack of use. A gentle tap will probably get them working again.
OUR VERDICT
These cars are well overdue a stronger following, so offer superb value. Avoid rough old dogs, though there are few of these remaining. The Twin Spark offers relatively low running costs and a lot of fun, but it’s the spine-tingling V6 that rightly gets most attention. Even in 12v form, it’s an absolute joy with strong performance and a delicious soundtrack. It’s such a good engine and sadly, many a 164 has died as an engine donor. Buy a good 164 and you’ll have found a great way to start every petrol-head’s dream – Alfa Romeo ownership.
ALFA ROMEO GTV REVIEW
You can’t claim to be a true petrolhead until you’ve owned an Alfa Romeo, so why not make it a really good one? We show you how to avoid the pitfalls of Italian exotica on a budget...
Classic Alfa Romeo Alfetta GTV
The driving position is typically Italian, which means your legs will feel cramped, and your arms outstretched. You’ll either like this or you won’t, but do persist. Whether the sparky Twin Cam or the glorious V6, the driving experience itself needs to
be savoured.
Performance is strong, but it’s in the corners that the GTV really attracted plaudits in its day. Nicely weighted, accurate steering and perfect weight balance mean it has a grace lacking in many rivals. A Porsche 944 gets close, but can’t match the GTV6’s intoxicating six-cylinder howl. As long as you’re sensible, the Alfa will edge towards understeer if you really get a shift on, but clumsy driving can upset the back-end in the damp. A De Dion back end ensures things don’t get skittish if the road surface is less than perfect either. It is a true driver’s car.
VITAL STATISTICS
Alfa Romeo GTV 6 2.5
Engine 2493cc/V6/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@5800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 157lb ft@4000rpm
Top speed 133mph
0-60mph 8.2sec
Consumption 25mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Spot a GTV6 by the bonnet bulge. All UK GTV6s used fuel injection, which tends to be reliable. Timing belt changes are required ideally every four years or 36,000 miles. A good independant will charge around £300, with dealers charging much more. The V6 is very robust and will easily sail past 150,000 miles with sympathetic maintenance. The original timing belt tensioner can leak oil, but a mechanical replacement from the 155 can be used. Head gaskets can fail, but later gaskets are a better design. Check the state of the coolant. If it’s fresh but the expansion tank looks filthy, the head gasket may be suspect. The twin-cam engine is a bit more fragile and a rebuild may be needed around 100,000 miles. The top timing chain needs replacing every 50,000 miles and all engines can smoke when worn. The V6 can be easily tuned, and 3.0-litre replacements from the 75 are much sought after and shouldn’t harm the value too much.
Check for corrosion under the scuttle panel. It can get very expensive to sort properly as the dashboard, heater, wiring loom and windscreen need removing. Corrosion also strikes around the front suspension turrets, the bottom of the front wings behind the front wheels and the sills. If there is any sign of bubbling above the sill trim of a later GTV, there’s likely to be much worse beneath.
Examine the jacking points carefully, especially just below the leading corner of the front door. Inside, if there’s a bulge in the floor where your heel rests, it suggests the floor is rotten. Lift the carpets in both footwells to check for any grot or signs of damp caused by water ingress, and have a good look underneath as well. Be aware that copious amounts of underseal can be used to disguise problems, so give it a good poke with a screw driver.
Get underneath and check around the spare wheel well – and the battery well on a GTV6. They are spot welded to the main chassis rails, so rot in either can quickly become structural. Rot can be tricky to spot and may get missed on an MoT. It’s worth checking this area very carefully as muck gets thrown up by the rear wheels.
ELECTRICS
Electrics can live up to the Alfa reputation for unreliability, though usually only because of dirty connections. Make sure everything works but note that oil gauges can be erratic. A new sender usually does the trick. If a car has been standing electric window switches can stop working.
RUNNING GEAR
A car with worn suspension will not handle well and will feel vague and clumsy. Everything is available, but once you start replacing worn bushes and get the geometry checked, it can get expensive. A lot of people upgrade the brakes, but this often requires larger, aftermarket wheels. The inboard rear calipers are prone to seizing, especially in little-used cars. Worse, they can also leak fluid, causing the pedal to need pumping to give any stopping power. Pay around £126 for a reconditioned caliper. A soft clonk from the rear when you come off the throttle is probably worn gearbox mountings. Watch for failed synchromesh – a gearbox rebuild will be in the region of £1700
INTERIOR
Interior trim can be very hard to find, and earlier cloth disintegrated in sunlight. Leather upgrades are popular and hard wearing, as are later Recaro interiors, which command a premium. Black trim can fade to a sort of greenish colour if left exposed to sunlight and the elements for any length of time.
OUR VERDICT
This really is motoring for the heart, but it’s essential that you don’t go blindly into GT or GTV ownership, or your joy could be short lived. A shiny car isn’t necessarily a sound one. Always go for bodywork ahead of mechanical woes. Fixing the running gear can be costly, but is rarely enough to write a car off in economic terms. A thorough bodywork restoration on the other hand can very easily outweigh the value of the car. Keeping a GTV on the road needn’t be a bind, though parts support is not without problems. Club support is also excellent.
ALFA ROMEO 2000 GTV REVIEW
Alfa Romeo got it spot on with the 2000 GTV, matching its jewel-like twin-cam four-cylinder to a beautiful coupé body designed for Bertone by Giorgetto Giugiaro. It was, of course, only a 2+2, but then, who wanted passengers to talk to in a car that was so involving to drive?
These cars started with smaller-capacity engines and a GT designation, the final 2.0-litre engine being introduced in 1971 and the GTV designation having been introduced in 1965. The extra ‘V’ stood for Veloce – Alfa built 37,459 of these cars in the five years before production ended in 1976.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Sadly, these cars were built in the period when the Alfa Romeo name was closely associated with rust, so you need to have a very close look at any example you’re tempted to buy. Poor repairs are perhaps the biggest problem – you can fix something when you know the extent of the rust, but when you can’t see what’s been hidden, you might be buying trouble.
Start by looking at the sills. Bodged repairs often show up as poor alignment between sills and door bottoms. Then move on to the inner wings; beware of underseal that’s been used to hide dodgy areas.
Have a good look at the front cross-member, and check the transverse members at the back of the engine bay. It’s also worth examining (and gently pressing) the metalwork under the rear screen and under the side windows. It can be tricky and expensive to repair these areas if they’ve rotted.
ENGINE
The good news is that these engines are really strong and long-lived. There’s good parts availability, too, if you do come across problems.
Both the block and head are alloy, and they like regular maintenance. Oil levels can be critical, and the sump holds more than you’d expect. Alfa always insisted that the engine should be thoroughly warmed up before driving to allow the oil to circulate. Lack of maintenance, or of general care, leads to cracked and corroded blocks.
Check for traces of oil on the block. If it’s generally dripping down from under the head,
the problem could be worn O-rings under the camshaft bearings. If it’s only at the rear and on the exhaust side, suspect a failed head gasket, which is not uncommon on these engines. The head can be removed leaving all the valve gear left in place, which is a bonus.
RUNNING GEAR
The five-speed gearbox is a delight to use, but you should check that the synchromesh is sound on all gears. The first signs of trouble are often worn synchro on second gear. Re-builds can be expensive, so you might be better off going for a reconditioned gearbox.
As these cars were meant to be driven vigorously, it’s no surprise that suspension problems do arise. If the back end wiggles, then the trailing-arm bushes are probably shot. If there are knocking noises at the front, it will be the bushes again. Experts recommend that all the bushes are renewed every 30,000 miles, so ask when those on "your" car were last replaced.
Ride height is critical to correct handling, and the cars should sit level or with a slight tail-down attitude. It’s also worth knowing that some aftermarket replacement rear coil springs can be too long, and when fitted,leave the car with a jacked-up back end and an oversteer problem.
Interior
Despite the general air of quality about the interiors of these cars, they do suffer quite badly from wear – especially after use by an unsympathetic owner. A badly worn interior may also be an indication that all is not going to be well elsewhere. Most cars will be showing some wear on items such as seat bolsters by now.
However, the good news is that no 2000 GTV interior needs to look scruffy for want of parts. You can get pretty much everything you need – seat covers, door cards, side trim panels, gearknobs and wood trim kits – from Alfaholics, and at very reasonable prices. Even a split dashboard top need not be a deterrent if the rest of the car is sound; you can get a good-as-new replacement.
OUR VERDICT
The real appeal of these Italian coupés lies in their combination of classic good looks and genuine driving pleasure. Admire one from the kerbside, take it out on the road, listen to the engine note rise and fall, and enjoy that slick gearchange. Alfas typically made the most of their relatively small engines, whose size was dictated by Italian tax laws, and these cars were giant-killers in their day.
You should also buy one because it’s affordable and can be maintained on a relatively modest budget. An Alfa 2000 GTV really works out as very good value indeed at today’s prices. Just don’t, whatever you do, buy a rough one!
ALFA ROMEO MONTREAL REVIEW
Anyone familiar with 1970s Italian cars will feel right at home in the cabin of an Alfa-Romeo Montreal.
The low seating position feels snug with a transmission tunnel that places the gearlever perfectly to hand, and the deeply-dished wood-rim steering wheel is a joy to look at and to hold. On the road the Montreal experience is dominated by the race-bred V8 and although it’s not as quick as you might expect, performance is ample and backed by a fabulous soundtrack. Some road testers of the time reckoned the handling was a touch soft, but it’s the engine that’s the star here.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1. Major restoration is going to be a costly exercise, so checking the condition of the bodywork is the first thing with a Montreal. Plenty have been restored, but check all the panels for corrosion, particularly around the air vents aft of the doors. They can trap water and rust can spread to the wings below, as well as on into the sills and the floor. Check the luggage area for any signs of damp too as the hatch seals can leak. Bear in mind too that replacement panels are getting scarce, so it may take a determined hunt to unearth new/old stock or secondhand parts.
2. Exterior trim such as chromework and plastic parts are also tricky to source, as are light units. The headlamp covers are vacuum operated, so check they are working correctly as repairs can be fiddly.
3. Despite its racing heritage, the dry-sump V8 engine is considered pretty bullet-proof – but only with meticulous maintenance. Most problems are caused by lack of use, so regular exercise and expert fettling are the keys to longevity. Most parts are available, but a full rebuild will run into several thousand pounds so get a professional inspection if you’re not sure. The water pump is often cited as being a weak point, but it’s no more of a problem than any engine of this age.
4. Another regular talking point is the unusual Spica fuel injection system, but again it isn’t the problem that many would have you believe. Internal seals and the thermostatic actuators that control the fuel/air mixture according to temperature can fail but often the trouble is caused by lack of expertise. Once sorted and set-up correctly (the owners club recommends a specialist in the US) it’s a good system and there is little need to convert to carburettors as some have done.
5. The ZF gearbox is generally robust which is just as well as overhaul or replacement is pricey. A bit of noise at idle is normal with these ‘boxes but watch for an excessively notchy gearchange that could signal more serious problems. The ZF limited-slip differential should be trouble-free as well, but any issues here or with the clutch will be costly.
6. The 105-Series Alfas donated much of the steering, brake, and suspension hardware so there is little to worry about here, and finding parts is no problem. Lack of steering sharpness is usually caused by worn linkages, and while suspension upgrades are popular as owners seek a sportier edge to the handling, a standard set-up in
good order suits the Montreal’s relaxed nature.
The all-round disc brakes are more than up to the job and overhauling them is a straightforward task.
7. Specialist trimmers can restore a tired cabin, but costs will soon add up so avoid anything too neglected. Sourcing some trim parts and switches can be tricky too, so finding one that’s essentially complete is the best bet. And despite the reputation for electrical niggles that plagued many an Italian car of the period, the Montreal fares well in this respect. Check the electric windows work, as these are a known weak point. Air-conditioning was optional on early cars, standard from 1972.
OUR VERDICT
It’s hard to understand why the Montreal is so underrated. It looks terrific and the V8 is a peach. The potential for high restoration costs makes careful buying a must but there is a wealth of knowledge available. If you fancy a classic Italian coupé as glamorous as a Miura but with a far cheaper entry ticket price, we heartily recommend the Montreal.
ALFA ROMEO 105-SERIES GIULIA REVIEW
The thought of a British car maker producing a twin-cam sporting saloon in the early 60s, with all-round disc brakes, independent suspension up front and a five-speed gearbox would have been laughable.
They may have wanted to do it, but Britain’s conservative automotive industry would never have produced such a thing. Not Alfa Romeo though, which needed to come up with something radical to dig itself out of a financial black hole.
That car was the Giulia 105-Series, offered in saloon and coupé forms, and launched in June
1962 to widespread critical acclaim. The 1570cc four-pot provided superb performance too, with 103mph on offer at a time when most family saloons ran out of puff at 90. It was partly down to the superb aerodynamics – with a CD of just 0.34, the car is astonishingly refined at high speed. From 1964, the Giulia could be had with the 1290cc Giulietta engine. Spot one by its single headlamps. They’re still nippy motors as even the small engine still boasts twin overhead camshafts and up to 82bhp.
While the Giulia coupés have long been sought after, increasing values are pushing them out of reach. The saloon may be more of a challenge aesthetically, but with such a great driving experience on offer, it’s no wonder that prices of these more practical classics are now on the up – which is why you need to buy sooner rather than later.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1570cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 92bhp @ 600rpm
Torque 108lb ft @ 3700rpm
Top Speed 107mph
0-60mph 13sec
Economy 26mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
This is the Achilles’ heel of the Giulia. Unsurprisingly, replacement panels are all but extinct, with nothing even being reproduced. The whole bodyshell is potentially one large weak spot, but focus on the bottom six inches of the car most closely – the sills, inner wings and front crossmember all need particular attention. Because of the scarcity of fresh panels, you also need to be on the lookout for bodged repairs all over.
A and B-posts rot, while the boot floor (including the spare wheel well) is likely to have been patched by now. The floorpans, bulkhead and wheelarches are all likely to have seen better days, so be on the lookout for filler that’s been liberally applied.
Exterior brightwork can also be a headache. You’ll struggle to find replacement bits on a used basis, with anything new having disappeared years ago.
ENGINE
Various twin-cam fours were fitted to the Giulia – there were 1300, 1600, 1750 and 2000 options. All are tough, but noisy tappets and timing chains are common. Head gasket failure is the most likely malady, so look for oil trickling down either side of the block along with signs of the coolant and lubricant mixing, given away by white emulsion on the underside of the oil filler cap.
TRANSMISSION
All Giulias came with a five-speed manual gearbox, which is reasonably tough, but second-gear synchro can prove weak if the gearchange has been rushed before the ‘box has properly warmed up.
Another weak spot is the gear selector fork, which bends, leading to jumping out of gear when reverse is selected. Damage can be caused after just 50,000 miles. Rebuilt ‘boxes cost around £600.
SUSPENSION & BRAKES
Worn suspension components can all be replaced – hard-driven cars are likely to need an overhaul. Rear-wheel steering is common, from tired trailing arm bushes, while knocks from the front betray worn bushes. They’re all easily renewed though.
The biggest braking problems come from cars that haven’t been used for years, with seized cylinders, calipers and servos being potentially costly to revive or replace. The servos of later cars can fail, and when they do there’ll be clouds of white smoke from the exhaust, which is the brake fluid being drawn into the engine and burned.
INTERIOR & ELECTRICS
The original interior trim was reasonably tough, but by now it’ll have seen better days. Luckily most items are being reproduced and are not particularly expensive, although it’s the usual story – if it all needs replacing, the costs will add up. A new headlining is £112, a full set of seat covers is £250+, while a carpet set is £135 or more. Even the boot carpet sets are available for £85.
The electrics are more reliable than Alfa’s reputation might have you believe. The most common issues centre on the fuel tank earthing poorly, leading to erratic fuel gauge readings, as well as the column stalks not working properly – although these
can be rebuilt by specialists.
VERDICT
With great club and specialist support, a driving experience to savour and steadily rising values, the Giulia makes sense on so many levels. However, while mechanical parts availability is very good, the same isn’t true when it comes to replacement panels. You also need to garage your Giulia, or at least keep it under cover, if it isn’t to rapidly deteriorate. But if you look after it, you’ll be rewarded with a dream drive every trip plus the pleasure of owning a steadily appreciating classic. But be warned: unless you can find a good one, you’ll be bankrupted.
ALFA ROMEO 156 GTA REVIEW
Charismatic and hair-raisingly quick, the 156 GTA offers plenty of performance for the money. Here's what to look for if you're looking to buy..
The 156’s curvaceous lines, appetite for a good corner and the weight of expectation brought by wearing an Alfa Romeo badge meant it was only a matter of time before press-on drivers were treated to a proper sporting derivative.
Launched at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 2001 and introduced here in May 2002, the GTA dropped the manufacturer’s sonorous 3.2-litre V6 behind the 156’s V-shaped grille, deploying 247bhp to the front wheels. Developed alongside the smaller 147 GTA – with which it shared its engine – the 156 GTA represents value for money, considering they weighed in at a hefty £27k when they were new.
It may have had a wider track, lower ride height and revised steering geometry than the rest of the range, but it’s still a driver’s car dominated by the nose-heavy – but wonderfully melodic – powerplant.
Sadly, its production stint was short-lived – both it and the 147 GTA were canned in 2005 when the 3.2-litre V6 was unable to meet emissions regulations.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 3179cc/V6/DOHC
POWER 247bhp@6200rpm
TORQUE 221lb ft@4800rpm
MAXIMUM SPEED 155mph
0-60MPH 6.3sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION 23-30mpg
TRANSMISSION FWD, 6-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Check the water pump
The V6’s coolant is circulated by a plastic impellor, which is known to split and then fail altogether with age. Replacing it is a tricky – and expensive – job that requires removing the cambelt, tensioner and idler pulleys, so check through the history to see if a previous owner has replaced it. Switching the GTA’s plastic part with the metal one from the GTV is a common swap.
Has the cambelt been changed?
It’s recommended the belt is checked at 36,000 miles and replaced completely at 72,000 miles, but as it’s not an easy part to access some owners hold out for longer. It’s a similar story with oil filters – it’s awkward but not impossible to get at, but make sure previous owners haven’t neglected changing it.
Try that clutch
Clutches tend to last at least 70,000 miles, but replacing them is a fiddly job that involves taking out the front suspension and subframe to get access. A car that’s had the work done is a plus, but if you can’t find proof then check for a heavy pedal feel or a biting point that’s very high up. A worn clutch slave cylinder will also manifest itself through pedal feel, but it’s a cheaper and easier fix.
Is it a track day car?
The GTA’s rampant performance and affordability mean there are plenty that have been thrashed at track days. On cars made before November 2003 – which are fitted with 305mm front brake discs – brake juddering will often indicate whether the car’s had a hard life. It’s also worth listening for creaks or knocks from the front suspension, which is usually a anti-roll bar sliding around due to worn bushes.
Has the bonnet been fixed?
Both the 156 and its 147 sibling were issued with safety recalls due to failing bonnet catches, which can cause the bonnet to fly open at speed. Check the car’s history to see whether a dealer’s looked at your car in the past – early ones had a plastic catch, and while the later metal items are better it didn’t completely eradicate the problem, so make sure the bonnet closes properly and that it’s been greased regularly. In very rare incidents, the roof may have been damaged as a result of an errant bonnet – check for signs of rust around the top of the windscreen.
OUR VERDICT
Unlike its primarily German opposition – and mass-market rivals like Ford’s Mondeo ST220 and Vauxhall’s Vectra GSI – the 156 GTA majors on charisma. You’d never tire of listening to the noise the 3.2-litre V6 makes or the trouble Alfa goes to with the visual details, like the chromed inlet manifolds, the 17-inch teledial alloy wheels and the individual dashboard pods for the instruments.
It’s a charismatic sports saloon that rewards a fastidious owner – there is no point in skimping crucial servicing because some of the parts are tricky to reach. It’s also in the price doldrums at the moment, so now’s the time to buy one before prices start going up.
ALFA ROMEO 156 REVIEW
As beautiful as its 155 predecessor was plain, the 156 marked a turning point in Alfa Romeo’s fortunes. We consider how best to buy one of these appreciating new-wave classics...
Alfa Romeo began something of a renaissance in 1997. After years in the doldrums with the likes of the Six, 75, 33 and the awful Arna, the company positively blew the car industry’s collective socks off when it whipped the covers off the new 156.
As visually arresting inside as it was out, the car went on to achieve worldwide sales in excess of 680,000. More importantly, it re-established Alfa Romeo as a brand to be trusted. Its 159 successor may have looked more imposing, but it lost the earlier car’s delicacy.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1970cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 155bhp@6400rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 138lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 129mph
0-60mph 8.3sec
Consumption 36mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Walk away from any 156 that displays even minute evidence of body rot, as all models were galvanised at the factory. Crusty 156s, therefore, have almost certainly sustained heavy accident damage at some point and then been poorly repaired using cheap pattern parts.
It’s worth looking underneath, too. Veloce models, in particular, have slightly lowered suspension which brings the underside into sharp contact with the road on even moderate dips
– make sure yours isn’t scuffed and dented.
Finally, those stunning lines are thanks in no small part to gently curved doors that are completely bereft of protective strips, meaning car-park dents are commonplace. Don’t expect miracles, but repeatedly nerfed doors will prove costly to repair.
ENGINE
Alfa Romeo offered buyers a wide variety of engines, ranging from a 1.6-litre Twin Spark, all the way up to the glorious V6 petrol. None is be particularly troublesome if they’re serviced and maintained properly, although Twin Sparks do appear to use a little more oil than is usual.
Check the car’s history for evidence of cambelt changes. Initially, the factory recommended that this be done every 72,000 miles, but this was later revised down to every 36,000 miles. Like many other cars from the period, this job inevitably disturbs the water pump, so it’s advisable to have it changed for a stronger one with a metal impeller at the same time.
In terms of performance, the V6 is the one to have if money is no object. But the pick of the range is definitely the powerful and sonorous 2.0-litre Twin Spark. Of the lesser engined cars, the 1.6-litre is
much nicer to drive than the slightly strangled-feeling (and sounding) 1.8-litre.
RUNNING GEAR
The trick with buying an early 156 is to keep it simple. Manual gearboxes and clutches, while hardly bulletproof, are nevertheless impressively strong, with sympathetically-driven cars routinely managing 100,000 miles between clutch changes. Front-wheel drive chassis are similarly not prone to catastrophic failure, although the heavy-engined V6 can feel nose-heavy and understeery.
Super-cheap 2.0-litre 156s are almost always Selespeeds, whose sequential paddle-shift gearboxes were endlessly problematic when new and are prohibitively expensive to repair now. It’s a similar story with the rather less common Q System auto offered as an option on the V6, and while the super-rare Q4 four-wheel drives don’t have quite the same reputation, repair costs are pretty much guaranteed
to be very high if something goes wrong.
INTERIOR
The 156 may have been built to a much higher standard than previous models, but they’re as prone to trim and electrical gremlins as any Italian car. To be fair, these are usually minor irritants rather than full-blown disasters, so don’t be too surprised to find that poor radio reception on very early cars improves markedly if the heated rear screen is switched on, the fusebox cover to the right of the steering wheel routinely drops open or the vent panel on top of the dashboard rattles when it’s cold. The air conditioning system often produces a less than icy blast even on its coldest setting, too. More seriously, it’s imperative that the warning lights on the dashboard go out shortly after start-up – stubbornly glowing engine management, airbag or ABS warning lights can signify big bills looming under the bonnet.
OUR VERDICT
Body and mechanical condition is key to early 156s – find a good 1.6, 2.0 or V6 manual in a desirable colour(ideally on teledial alloy wheels), and you’ll bag a stylish and reliable youngtimer with strong performance and handling. Honest cars should be resistant to rust, and owner’s club and parts specialist backing is strong.
