The Mazda MX-5 took the sports car market by storm, reinventing it completely for the 1990s. Read our buying guide to tell you everything you need to know before buying one…
RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REVIEW
Can’t afford an original R5 Turbo? Happily the Phase 2 GT Turbo offers similar thrills at a fraction of the price. We find out exactly how to bag yourself a good one
The GT Turbo isn’t just a fierce engine stuffed into a shopping car chassis – Renault really went to work on the suspension too. This is a superb handling car, especially the way the front end just dives into corners and then feels nailed to the road.
Sometimes, it’s almost as if it grips too much. At the point where you’re expecting to turn the wheel more to get around a bend, the car actually digs in harder, forcing you to wind-off lock.
Anyone who’s ever driven a Clio 172, or its descendants, will recognise the way the GT Turbo behaves. Add in a sweet, slick gear change and the GT Turbo is a mighty slice of old fashioned fun. It’s one of those rare cars that are incredibly easy to drive hard. The ride is more composed and gentle on Phase 2 cars, which makes the GT Turbo a usable car on the road as well as the track.
It has the desirable qualities of all great hot hatches – it’s exciting, addictive and spurs you into driving it harder.
VITAL STATISTICS
1987 Renault 5 GT TurbO
Engine 1397cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 118bhp@5750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 122lb ft@3750rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 7.3sec
Consumption 28mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The metalwork on these cars is really thin, so look for any covered damage. Wonky panel alignment is fairly common as a result. Regular R5 rust spots are numberous and include along the bottom of the front windscreen, rear window rubbers, rear wheel arches, wings, tailgate, doors and floorpan. Also examine the outer sills, behind the plastic sill extensions, the inner sills and the front jacking points. Other common rust spots are the front and rear bumper mounting points.
ENGINE
The 5 Turbo’s pushrod 1397cc engine is prone to noisy tappets, but this is not something to be unduly worried about. Of more serious concern is a noisy camshaft – evident as a slightly deeper sound than the tappets. This noise means the camshaft is worn and it won’t be long before you have to replace it, an expensive task that involves removing the head itself. An engine that has been serviced regularly and maintains a good oil pressure should easily manage 150,000 miles before rings, main bearings or valve guides need replacing.
On the test drive, be sure to find a series of left and right turns. While going round the corner, listen out for a knocking noise coming from the opposite side you are turning into. This noise indicates a driveshaft in need of replacement. When driving along at about 30mph in fourth gear, open the window and listen for a knocking noise coming from the engine. This is the big end bearings knocking and if you do hear this, then walk away from the car, as a full engine rebuild will be required imminently. Make sure that the car does not misfire when on boost – this could simply be down to incorrect ignition timing or a more serious engine fault. The key to reliability is in accurate fuel set-up, and using super unleaded fuel to prevent pre-detonation. Check what boost is being used and ask lots of questions about how the fuelling has been set up.
RUNNING GEAR
When switching on the ignition, make sure that the oil light, battery light and handbrake light come on, and that the oil pressure gauge shoots up. This acts as an oil level reading until the engine is switched on and then it turns into an oil pressure gauge. When you start the car, make sure that the oil pressure gauge moves up and down with the revs. If the pressure gauge is sitting flat on the bottom of the gauge then it either means there is no oil pressure and that the head gasket has gone, there’s something major internally wrong with the engine, or the gauge is simply not working.
Check that all the electrics inside work as French cars of the 1980s/1990s don’t have the best reputation in this area. The R5 uses a chemical sealant in the front windscreen – they are known for coming away from the rubber because of movement in the A-pillars, so when inside the car gently push the windscreen to see if it moves.
INTERIOR
Interiors are generally hard wearing, but the driver’s seat outer side bolster foam breaks down. New bolsters are still available from Renault, but cheaper replacements can be found easily enough secondhand. If the front seats rock excessively on their mountings, check the two pivot bolts that couple them at the front to their sub frames, as they come loose and can need tightening from time to time. The electric windows are known for being slow, caused by the motor’s old dried-out grease and perished rubber guides. Some time spent cleaning and re-greasing the mechanism can vastly improve things. However, sometimes the cause of the slow windows and central locks is simply corroded electrical connectors. These fail to pass adequate current to operate the motors and replacement for new is required as cleaning has little or no effect.
OUR VERDICT
The Renault 5 GT Turbo is a rare beast on UK roads, so finding one will be difficult and finding a good one even harder. Certain parts are now scarce, meaning they can be very expensive. The simplest advice is to buy the best example your budget will allow, as the cost of refurbishing a duff car is likely to be significantly higher than the price you’ll pay for a decent one in the first place. These cars are still prime targets for thieves, so you’ll definitelty want to look into an upgraded anti-theft system, if this hasn’t been done already. The GT Turbo is a highly usable car, definitely capable of daily driver duties as well as weekend blasts.
RENAULT 5 MK1 REVIEW
Finding one may be the hardest thing, but it will be worth it. We are your guide to the charms and practicalities of owning a Renault 5
The Renault 5 pretty much set the template for the modern supermini and quickly spawned a raft of imitators, including the Ford Fiesta. A combination of chic styling and hatchback practicality attracted over five million buyers – and, if you like the looks, you’ll be equally impressed by the way an R5 goes down the road. Sporty Gordini and Turbo models aside, modest power outputs mean performance is only average but it feels sprightlier than figures suggest.
We’d recommend one of the larger power units, since all offer good economy. Like many French cars of the time, the 5 benefits from soft, long-travel suspension that allows it to glide over urban ruts and potholes – it’s far more comfortable than many other small car offerings, although the penalty is alarming body roll on faster corners. You do get used to it and can soon make the most of the accurate steering and light controls to best enjoy the limited power.
Early cars’ dashboard-mounted gearshift takes
a little more getting used to; the later floor-mounted lever is light and accurate. Another R5 plus point is the interior – it’s somewhat spartan in early incarnations but roomy enough for family duties even if the rear seats are a little tight for the long-legged. The dashboard is logically laid out with easy-to-reach switches located around the instrument binnacle on later models, and just enough dials and warning lights to keep you informed.
The driving position is quite upright but is none the worse for that and most people should be able to get comfortable behind the wheel. It’s worth noting, though, that space in the footwell is a bit tight for larger feet. The R5 is refreshingly honest and fun though, and that’s good enough for us.
VITAL STATISTICS
(based on Renault 5TL)
Engine 1108cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 45bhp@4400rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 63lb ft@3750rpm
Top speed 86mph
0-60mph 20.6sec
Consumption 45mpg
Gearbox 4-spd manual
HAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Later cars received better protection but rust is still common on the R5. Check the top and bottom of the front wings (including inners), the bottom of the doors and tailgate, and the leading edge of the bonnet. Examine the rear wheelarches, the sills, front and rear screen surrounds, and the areas around headlamps and fuel filler.
Bubbling under the vinyl roof on later models should be treated with suspicion, and the plastic side cladding can also hide rot. A check of the floorpan is advisable too, especially around the rear suspension mounting points as sill corrosion can easily spread. Finding a complete, solid example is key with the R5 – replacement panels (indeed any exterior trim parts) are incredibly hard to source so restoration is unlikely to be easy.
ENGINE
Engines ranged from an entry-level 845cc ‘Ventoux’ unit through to various larger capacities up to 1.4 litres. The bigger engines were dubbed ‘Sierra.’ All are fundamentally sound if treated to proper maintenance. Alloy cylinder heads mean correct antifreeze levels are vital for longevity – check the whole cooling system as corrosion and leaks lead to overheating and inevitable head gasket failure. Rattling valve gear and perished valve stem oil seals that cause smoke on start-up are issues to watch for. Turbocharged Gordini engines will need extra care – blown turbo plumbing is an expensive fix.
ELECTRICS
Check the electrics. The wiring between body and tailgate is a weak spot and can lead to inoperative lights.
RUNNING GEAR
A four-speed manual gearbox was standard – five-speeders arrived later – and apart from whining bearings or worn synchromesh, should be trouble-free. An obstructive dash-mounted gearlever on early models is most likely a worn linkage – easily sorted. A floor-mounted lever was optional from 1975 and standard from 1978. A three-speed automatic arrived in 1979. Listen for clicking CV joints and check the clutch isn’t slipping – replacement is fiddly as the steering rack sits on top of the forward-mounted gearbox and must be removed before the gearbox can come out.
BRAKES
Wear in bushes and joints apart, the rack and pinion steering is usually trouble-free, and the same goes for the brakes. Most R5s got a disc/drum set-up – early models were drums all round, though Gordini Turbos got discs all round – and basic maintenance will keep things healthy. Note that the handbrake operates on the front wheels on Ventoux-engined cars.
Suspension is by telescopic dampers and torsion bar springs at both ends. Upper and lower front ball joints wear quickly, and you’ll need to check for rot in the torsion bar mounting points and those for the rear trailing arms. The bonded rubber bushes for the latter are now available from France. Wheels on all models used a three-stud fitting with some cars getting alloys as standard – check them for pitting and corrosion.
INTERIOR
Pay attention to trim condition. Original fabric is unavailable and the foam can disintegrate, leading to saggy seats. Damage to dashboard or doorcards will be problematic, too, as replacement interior trim is extremely scarce.
OUR VERDICT
They may be very rare now but there is plenty to like about this fine-riding French hatchback. The comfortable interior and solid mechanicals add to the attraction, making this a fine choice as a small, but stylish, classic. Corrosion worries and lack of parts availability are concerns though, so you’ll need to buy carefully. Find a good one, and you won’t regret it.