Mazda RX-7 (FB): Buying guide

After a Japanese coupé that isn’t a Nissan Z-car? Try a Series 1 RX-7...

Launched in 1978 and produced until 1985, the first generation RX-7 was the car that made Mazda’s name throughout Europe. The curious little rotary-engined sports car also demonstrated that NSU’s supposed folly could be made to work; in fact, many RX-7s ended up donating their engines to the stylish Ro80. 

The RX-7 also kicked off a succession of world-class Mazda sports cars that has encompassed landmark vehicles like the MX-5 and RX-8. It’s the perfect alternative for anyone who wants a coupé with charm, something Japanese that isn’t a Z-car or who is intrigued by the smoothness and engineering of a rotary engine. Here’s what you need to know.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Mazda RX-7

Engine                                    1146cc/twin rotor

Power (bhp@rpm)                  100bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 105lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                122mph

0-60mph                                   9.2sec

Consumption                           22-25mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rot killed off most of the UK’s first generation RX-7s – and those used to British sports cars will be unsurprised by just how prolific corrosion can be. Wheelarches are the first to go, followed by the floorpans, sills and rear suspension mounts. If it’s not a museum piece, just about every example will probably have had work in these areas, so don’t disregard a car that has had welding, as long as
the work is to a high standard. The inner wings, windscreen corners and footwells are other key rot spots, and it pays to make sure the metal beneath the back seat is solid. 

ENGINE

Oil leaks from the front and rear crankshaft seals aren’t unknown, but the rotor tip seals are a far more common problem. Parts aren’t expensive, but fitment is a specialist job and the hours soon mount up. When warm, the oil pressure should be 60psi at 4000rpm. Check the unions on the oil cooler; they can crack. Oil losses are bad news, as it provides a third of the cooling as well as lubricating the engine. A compression test is a professional job – anything under 75psi, walk away. Engines can last for hundreds of thousands of miles, provided the oil is changed every 3000 miles. Smoke indicates worn oil control rings, unless it’s white, which means coolant is passing the ring squares
– the rotary equivalent of head gasket failure.

RUNNING GEAR

You’ll get 100,000 miles from both the clutch and gearbox. Worn lower balljoints can be an issue, but these are still available. Bushes wear too, but polybush kits are available which should alleviate any issues and are a desirable upgrade. RX-7 steering was by recirculating ball, not rack-and-pinion – excess play can be sorted, but it’s a haggling point. Dead steering feel indicates it’s been overtightened, which is equally bad news.

INTERIOR

The velour trim is hard-wearing but near-impossible to replace when
it gets tatty. Some cars have the desirable optional leather interior, which can be retrimmed at a price. Check that the appearance matches the mileage covered – the service history should give you the necessary clues. Dashboards rarely crack, which is
a good thing since they are difficult to remove. However, the seats collapse as they get older. 
Used replacements are rare – the best option is to refurbish the existing seats – while electric window switches and rear wipers are known to burn out. Barring this, there aren’t really any electrical concerns. In fact, it’s one of the RX-7’s strong suits.

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OUR VERDICT

Enthusiasts who gravitate towards the first generation RX-7 are usually on the lookout for a wedgy 1980s coupé that isn’t a Porsche 944. It’s a slightly leftfield choice, but there’s no denying its intelligent, forward-thinking design and a sense of delicate style that later versions of the RX-7 arguably lacked. It’s also a proper sports car with a beautifully balanced rear-drive chassis, optimum front/rear weight distribution and an engine that begs to be revved.

MAZDA EUNOS ROADSTER REVIEW

Mazda’s MX5 was a clever move which caught the competition napping. The explosion of the hot hatch market seemed to sound the death knell for the sports car in the UK, with even the MGB being replaced by a hot Metro and a hairy Maestro. Mazda recognised the real reason for the demise of the sportscar industry; namely that all the models on sale had been considered by Noah prior to the building of the Ark – the Alfa Spider, the Triumph Spitfire, and the MGB were all old hat by the late 1970s, when MX5 development was begun. The MX5 was such a success that the models imported into Britain couldn’t come fast enough – and Japanese spec Mazda Eunos models began to arrive on our shores too. Almost identical to our own cars, certain difference warrant a separate buying guide.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 1597cc, 4-cyl, DOHC

Power - 116bhp@6500rpm

Torque - 100lb/ft@5500rpm

Top Speed – 114mph

0-60mph – 8.8seconds

Economy - 30mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Perhaps unsurprisingly given how closely Mazda tried to emulate the classic British sportscar, Eunoses rust. Rear wheelarches, the trailing edge of the sills, and front chassis rails are known weak spots of the car, with corrosion having been evident on some cars before they reached their fifth birthdays. Drain holes can become blocked, trapping water in the sills which doesn’t help the rust issue. You can tell if the sills have been done by feeling them – the factory finish was a rough protective coating below the paint, where masy repaired cars will have smooth sills.

An obvious advantage is that the Japanese don’t salt their roads – a recent import will have fewer issues than a car which has spent a while in the UK. Wet boots are caused by perished rain channels round the back of the roof – easily replaceable. It should be fairly obvious not to succumb to temptation and test it with the roof down, for you can miss hood damage in this way. We’d also recommend testing how watertight it is before purchase.

Engines

All four cylinder, with a choice for two sizes. Early cars were 1.6, with a 1.8 option becoming available from 1994. The 1.6 was reintroduced in 1995 to combat the MGF – but was significantly detuned and feels far slower than early cars and 1.8s. And to please all those MG fans, the engine was part of an engine family known inside Mazda as the B-series! Mazda’s B-series is not known for faults, but there are a few things to check. Noisy tappets at startup is normal, but investigate if they haven’t shut up within a few minutes. Oil leaks are known, but easy to remedy once found. The bottom cambelt pulley can wear, and the cambelt itself whines when overtightened – walk away from squealing soft-tops. Misfires can be caused by faulty HT leads or the coil pack – HT leads are cheap, the coil pack isn’t. Investigate before purchase if possible.

Running Gear

The clutch slave cylinder is a known issue; its failure results in the clutch pedal sinking to the floor. It’s a simple enough fix though, so whilst you shouldn’t buy a car with a duff one it’s certainly no reason to sell up. Spigot and clutch release bearings can whine when the clutch is engaged – so listen on your test drive! Check that the power steering – more common on the Eunos than the MX5 – works as intended. Whilst parts are interchangeable with UK cars, the less you need to do the better!

Interior

Electric windows can slow or stick – silicon spray grease is useful in solving this if they’re still on their runners. Interiors were cloth and leather, and MX5s are so abundant that for standard cars it really doesn’t matter if trim needs replacing. Special editions might be harder to correctly renovate, though – one of the reasons we recommend avoiding special editions if possible. Hoods were vinyl and black as standard, though some special editions had mohair or coloured roofs. MK1s all had plastic rear windows, MK2 had heated glass. Barring these issues, there’s nothing on an MX5 interior that should pose any issues. Little of this is really relevant, for most will have had a replacement hood to the taste of the person who owned the car when it was fitted. As a rule, mohair and glass windows are more desirable than vinyl and plastic, but don’t pay any more for it if it’s already on the car.

OUR VERDICT

A stylish sportscar, beloved of enthusiasts worldwide, with a keen owners scene. They’re dirt cheap, well specced, and reliable enough for daily use. It’s the British sportscar for the sensible! You take one out, hare it down your favourite road without being silly, and you feel like you’ve just had the best drive of your life – the MX5 handles too sweetly to ignore. Buy one now, whilst they’re for nothing – it can’t last forever!

Mazda Eunos