AUDI TT REVIEW

Sporty, well-built and practical, the Audi TT MkI is now a great buy. 
 

It may be just 17 years since the first Audi TTs arrived, but the car's classic status was assured from the day it was unveiled as a concept at the 1995 Frankfurt motor show. Distinctive styling combines with hatchback practicality and excellent build quality to make it one of the most useable sportscars ever built. Throw in low purchase prices and you begin to question just how much you want that '60s roadster that'll cost you just as much to buy and run. 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

With a fully galvanised bodyshell and excellent rustproofing, and TT that's showing signs of corrosion has been crashed then poorly repaired. If you're thinking of buying a crunched TT, all panels are available - and they're not as costly as you might think. However, repairing rear-end damage isn't easy because of the contours, but many of the front-end panels (such as the slam panel and wings) bolt on, so they're surprisingly easy to replace. Repairing the sills can be tricky though, as they're bonded and screwed.

Engines

The turbocharged 1.8-litre four-cylinder engine that powers most TTs is good for 200,000 miles is properly maintained, which means fresh oil is needed at least every 10,000 miles or 12 months. Many TTs come with variable servicing which allows up to two years or 19,000 miles between servicing - but even fully synthetic oil can be frazzled long before this, which is why that interim oil change is essential.

It's also worth replacing the timing belt, tensioners and water pump on four-cylinder cars every 60,000 miles or four years, even though Audi specified an 80,000-mile schedule. The belts tend to snap at 65-80,000 miles, often after the belt-driven water pump has seized. The results is an engine beyond economical repair, with replacement used powerplants typically around £2500 fitted. Expect to pay around £400 for the belt, tensioners and water pump to be renewed, if done by an independent specialist. If you're quoted closer to £300, it's probably to replace the belt only - which can be a false economy.

The 1.8T engine can also suffer from failure of the air mass sensors; expect to pay a specialist around £200 to fix this.
When the TT was new, the 1.8T engine famously went through a period of the coil packs failing, leading to cars off the road because of replacement shortages. While spares are now plentiful, the problem persists, so check for misfiring. New coil packs cost around £30 apiece.

The 3.2 V6 doesn't have belt-driven camshafts, but from as little as 40,000 miles the timing chain can start to rattle due to stretching or worn tensioners. Hooking up the ECU to a diagnostics machine will give the game away. Repairs mean removing the engine, costing anywhere between £1500 and £2200 depending on which parts are replaced. Because both the chain and tensioners are weak spots, it's best to replace everything while the engine is apart - which is when that £2200 bill becomes a reality.

Transmissions

Early TTs came with five or six-speed manual gearboxes only, then later came the option of Audi's brilliant dual-clutch transmission dubbed DSG (Direct Shift Gearbox). Manual boxes are incredibly strong, while clutches will last anywhere between 50,000 and 100,000 miles depending on driving style.
The DSG boxes aren't always so durable though, so look for a permanently lit or flashing red gear indicator on the dash - quizzing the ECU will also throw up a fault code. While the transmission itself usually lasts pretty well, the Mechatronic control unit tends to fail eventually, leading to jerky gearchanges, a reluctance to engage gear or an intermittent lack of drive. Repaired Mechatronic units are available from the TT shop, for around £1200. New items are £1800, or £2200 fitted.
Most TTs feature Audi's brilliant quattro four-wheel drive transmission, although some low-powered Roadsters came with a front-wheel drive option. Europe got a 148bhp FWD coupe too, but not the UK.
Contrary to popular belief, the TT's quattro drivetrain doesn't provide permanent four-wheel drive. An array of sensors feed the Haldex control unit, which activates a clutch to send power to the rear wheels when necessary. This control unit can fail, so no power is fed to the rear wheels; if this happens, the car's ECU will result in a fault code. Also, the Haldex unit in the quattro drivetrain needs an oil change every 20,000 miles. Expect to pay £70 to get this done, while every 40,000 miles you'll pay around £120 for an oil and filter change.  
 

Steering and suspension

The TT isn't a light car, which takes its toll on the suspension. It's likely that the bushes will have seen better days, especially on hard-driven cars. Usually only one or two will need to be replaced though; expect a bill of £100-200 to get the work done. Rear springs and shock absorbers can also prove weak, the latter being prone to breaking. New springs cost £80 each, while shock absorbers are £174 per pair. While you're underneath, also check the anti-roll bar links, which can corrode then break. Replacement links are £25 each, and new rubber mounts cost just £2.50 apiece.

Wheels and brakes

All TTs sit on alloy wheels, aftermarket ones are popular but quality can be variable. Make sure that whatever is fitted is made to a decent standard, as cheap rims can suffer from buckling and cracks. Check for corrosion and kerbing as original factory wheels can cost up to £500 each.
You may find the TT underbraked, even though it features ventilated discs all round (non-quattro cars got solid rear discs). Fitting harder pads at the front is a good start for £100 or so. But if you want some really reassuring anchors, fit a Brembo braking system in the nose for £1200. You could convert to V6 stoppers for half of this, but even though the discs are larger they're not as efficient.

Trim and electrics  

If you're buying a Roadster, check the hood, as a replacement costs £1000 just for the outer fabric. If the whole thing needs replacing (which is unlikely,as they're very well-made) the final bill including the frame and labour could add up to £5000 - although a bill of closer to £1800 is more likely. the TT Shop hasn't had to replace one yet, but if there's damage, it'll cost plenty to fix. Incidentally, the heated glass rear window is integral with the hood. If it's damaged, the whole lot has to be renewed.
Check every single electrical item from lighting to stereo, especially on an earlier car. Glitches are common and cures can be hard to effect. The TT 180 and TT 150 didn't get xenon lights as standard. They're worth having as they're much brighter than the halogen units, but if they fail, replacement costs are high. If you don't know what's fitted, the xenon lights come with washer nozzles in the bumper. 
 

OUR VERDICT

Collectors are already emerging for the TT. Pick of the bunch is the quattro Sport which came in Coupe form only and features an uprated (237bhp) 1.8T engine, Recaro seats and sportier suspension. It's also 75kg lighter. If you want some fun on the cheap, any manual 1.8T variant will suffice; the 3.2 V6 is thirstier, generally less reliable and more costly to maintain.
Why do you want one? Firstly, there's that amazing styling. Barely changed from the concept that sired it, the TT still looks futuristic two decades after it was first seen as a design study, but this Bauhaus-inspired machine is one of the most usable two-seaters around. The coupe is more spacious than you'd expect, and all models are solidly built and good at staving off corrosion.
DIY maintenance isn't always easy, but there are plenty of independent specialists who can keep a TT going, so running costs needn't be exorbitant - certainly a lot less than most other sports cars. 

Audi TT

AUDI 80 REVIEW

The key to the success of the second generation (B2) Audi 80 lay in its ability to comfortably swallow up a small family and their associated paraphernalia. Happily, it could do this while still offering reasonable performance and good economy, soon earning a good name for itself both at home and abroad.

Although Audi tried hard to distance the 80 from the reworked Volkswagen Passat, they nonetheless shared a large amount of components, but that was no bad thing – the new 80 was a thoroughly decent car.

Following the pattern laid down by the first generation 80, the range comprised of two and four door saloon versions as well as an optional coupe, with Audi deciding against offering an estate. The 1978 line-up used a 1588cc four-cylinder, overhead-camshaft powerplant borrowed from Volkswagen that was available in three stages of tune, with the range topping fuel-injection model boasting 110bhp. Trim levels came in three different types initially, with the bottom of the range LS and mid-level GLS nestling just below the marquee-spec GLE.

Over the course of its production life, the 80 was also fitted with enlarged 1781cc engines (as used in the VW Golf GTI, but mounted longitudinally), before reaching it’s zenith with the 2.2 litre, 5-cylinder lump as seen in the coupe variant, a development of which also propelled the awesome quattro rally car.  A 1.6 turbo-diesel was also available, though it wasn’t hugely popular due to its inherent sluggishness, the net result of which is that oil-burning examples are somewhat scarce today. The 80 was an unprecedented success for Audi, proving a mainstay of the companies production up until 1995, by then in fourth generation (B4) guise. Even today’s A4 is a progression in a long line that began with the 80.

VITAL STATISTICS

AUDI 80 B2 (1978-1986)

Engine 1994cc 5-cylinder SOHC
Power 115bhp @ 5400rpm
Torque 122lb/ft @ 5400
Top Speed 114mph
0-60mph 9.7sec
Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Even though Audi only began galvanising the 80 when B3 production began, the pre-86 models still have an excellent reputation for keeping corrosion at bay. The key here is how well a car has been looked after; bear in mind that even the youngest examples are 23 years old, so if they have been neglected then they will rust just as freely as most other cars from the era. Particular areas to examine closely include the door bottoms, front wings, rear arches and around the headlamps and windscreen, as well as the edges of both bonnet, bottom of the A pillar, scuttle panel, boot floor and boot-lid. It’s also worth popping the bonnet and checking the state of the front suspension strut towers, which are not easy to replace if particularly crusty. As the front wings are bolt-on items, it’s imperative that you take time to have a good luck at where they meet the inner wheel-arches, especially around the bolt holes themselves.

The sills on 80s were given a comprehensive anti-corrosion treatment at the factory, which you should be able to feel as a very rough finish under the paintwork. Beware though of cars that have been glossed over prior to selling on – certainly you want to give both the inner and outer sills a thorough inspection regardless of their outward appearance. Watch for stiff/awkward door handles; these were not made from the best material in the world and can break easily. Replacement parts can be obtained either from Poland via eBay, or specialists like GSF.

ENGINE

Given that the 80 emanated from the giant Volkswagen/Audi stable, there are no real horror stories relating to these tough old units. Whatever the displacement, they are strong and reliable, providing they have been properly maintained. After 100,000 miles the valve stem oil seals and valve guides can deteriorate; blue exhaust smoke is a reliable tell-tale that this has occurred so watch carefully when inspecting a prospective purchase. Excessive oil consumption is also a sign that the engine may be due for some top end work. If high-mileage examples are suffering from low compression and lumpy tickover, then the exhaust valves are likely to have begun to burn out. Another thing to check is the cam-belt. They need changing every 60,000 miles too, so has it been done recently?

Good maintenance is also the key to the 80’s fuel system: The Bosch fuel injection should remain free of concern as long as it’s filters are changed regularly as part of routine servicing. Only if the car is presenting a high-speed misfire should you have to worry about forking out for a replacement control unit. Carburettor-fed cars may suffer from problems with their auto-choke, which can stick on, but this is relatively easily rectified. The Pierburg 2E2 Carburettor can be a pain to set up, and many examples have been converted to Weber carburettor.

TRANSMISSION

Gearboxes are robust, coming in both four and five-speed varieties, although the synchromesh on the latter is weaker.  Worn shaft bearings can result in an annoying transmission whine, but this is not a sign that the final drive has broken up. You should check for leaks around the driveshaft seals, as well as ensuring the front driveshaft gaiters are free from stone damage. If they haven’t been renewed for a while they may have become brittle, allowing lubricant to escape. Finally, if the clutch itself feels stiff when you activate it, that is not necessarily a reason to worry – this is a trait common to older Audis and doesn’t mean the clutch is faulty.

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

Suspension is typical Audi, with struts and coil springs at the front and dead axle at the rear, located by trailing arms and Panhard rods. Front top mounts can be prone to wearing out, along with front wishbone bushes- particularly on the larger engine cars. These are a relatively straight forward DIY job with the necessary tools, and specialists can provide these parts for around £8 each (top mounts) and £4 each (wishbone bushes – 2 per side). Check the rear brakes are working as expected – drum brakes on the rear use a load compensating valve located close to the offside rear wheel. Replacement of the brake lines can prove tricky when trying to fit the pipes into this.

INTERIOR

Higher-spec models came with a raft of extras such as a sunroof, electric windows and central locking, the condition of which is worth taking into account before buying. Replacement electrical parts are available but can be expensive if they are only available from Audi themselves. Interior trim is difficult to obtain, and seat bolsters (particularly drivers side) can sag or wear through. If anything is required then sourcing a donor vehicle would be your best bet though. Thankfully little goes wrong with these old 80s however, so you shouldn’t necessarily let a few niggles be a deal-breaker.

VERDICT

The answer to your question would seem to be in the affirmative. If you can look past the slightly staid exterior, the 80 is actually quite an appealing prospect. If you compare it to an equivalent BMW 3 Series then it just makes so much sense, offering as it does the same Germanic virtues as its Bavarian rival, but costing a whole lot less due to it’s somewhat dour image. Maintenance and repair falls into the relatively simple bracket, most mechanical parts are readily available and there are ious clubs just waiting for you to join. Most of all, they’re actually getting quite rare in B2 guise, so if you’re looking to drive something a little bit different then the Audi 80 could well be the car for you.

AUDI 100 COUPÉ REVIEW

The Audi 100 Coupé makes for a hugely underrated gem. Here's why...

When was the last time you saw a C1-series Audi 100 Coupé S? Not recently, we’d bet. Less than 3200 made it onto the UK market and, of those, fewer than 50 are thought to have survived. In terms of rarity, this is up there with the Iso Grifo and Aston Martin DBS it so closely resembles.

It matches the Grifo and DBS in terms of lounge-lizard looks, too. Back in 1973, when the car in our photos was first registered, it was considered to be little more than an overpriced Volkswagen lookalike, but today the car has matured into a svelte, hunkered-down GT that carries with it more than a whiff of 1960s Mustang. Simply put, it’s absolutely stunning, especially with our test example’s vivid metallic blue paint and delicate chrome. 

Enough gawping. We need to go for a drive. Grasp the substantial chrome door handle, thumb the equally jumbo-sized push-button beneath and haul open the large, heavy door before stepping down into a world of 1970s Teutonic splendour.

Sink into the vast blue driver’s seat and pause awhile to drink in the details the almost comically huge steering wheel, the wood trim that calls to mind the teak you used to get on ’70s music centres, the Size 10 organ pedal throttle, and the quartet of green-on-black dials garnished with bright orange needles. Push the ignition key into the slot to the left of the steering column and the 1.9-litre fourcylinder engine coughs into life before settling into a slightly offbeat thrum that carries a vague timbre of the quattro’s trademark fivecylinder burble that would follow years later.

Then you go to snap your seatbelt into place, and puzzle over the apparently broken set-up missing its metal buckle. The penny drops…the Germans did things differently back then. Instead of a buckle, you loop the belt into a snap-jaw mechanism bolted to the floor. Well, it’s better than nothing…    The gearshift is one of few chinks in the 100’s armour – the throw is very long and rather vague, and each gear hits home with an indistinct slush rather than a rifle-bolt click – but the 1.9-litre ‘four’ is a little honey that punches well above its weight.

The long-winded gearbox takes the sporting edge off the car, but the engine delivers a hardedged engine note as the revs rise, and there’s an impressive amount of feedback through that Ark Royal tiller of a steering wheel.

Handling is on the soft side, but there is an almost boundless supply of grip. The rearwheel drive chassis feels surprisingly lively, given that it’s a simple live axle; no doubt the rear end becomes quite entertaining in the wet.
As a consummate cruiser, however, the Audi impresses, despite its lack of a fifth gear. While 118lb ft of torque doesn’t sound like much, it comes on song at a relatively lowly 3500rpm, meaning motorway overtakes rarely require a drop down into a lower gear. 

Audi 100 Trivia

• Just over 30,600 100 Coupés were sold during the C1’s production cycle. Its UK price at launch was a whopping £2418.
• All 100 Coupés were fitted with an advanced (for the time) brake stabilisation system that claimed to eliminate skids and unruly pulling to one side.
• There is a UK club dedicated specifically to the Audi 100 Coupé S.
• It is generally agreed that cars built up to 1973 used a higher grade of steel than those built from 1974 onwards.
• The 1.9-litre engine in well-maintained cars routinely covers more than 100,000 miles without a rebuild, with 150,000-milers by no means unheard of.

AUDI COUPÉ REVIEW

Launched in 1981, and closely related to the groundbreaking Quattro, here’s a sporting choice that’s still temptingly cheap.

The Audi Coupé was a welcome new addition to the UK new car price lists in March 1981. Its slightly upscale price of £7475 might have put it in direct competition with more powerful rivals, such as the 3.0-litre Ford Capri and BMW 323i – but with its Quattro-esque styling, and all the kudos that came with it, and the whiff of imported exclusivity that was still attached to Audi in the early 1980s, here was a car that offered a unique set of qualities in the coupé battlefield.

Heart of the Coupé’s appeal was its off-beat, non-turbo five-cylinder engine, which originally was available in 1921cc carburetted form, developing 115bhp. You either loved its warbling soundtrack or you were disturbed by it.

The range was quickly developed in two directions – in 1983, a more potent 2.2-litre 136bhp five-pot was introduced, and the following year, arrival of the facelifted model was marked by the addition of an 1.8-litre entry level. Improvements included new bumpers, and a softer, more aerodynamic grille to complement its new higher quality dashboard and switchgear.

Also new in ‘84 was arrival of the four-wheel drive Quattro version – and that proved highly popular in the UK, despite its high price. The Coupé remained on sale until 1988, by which time an impressive 174,687 had been built.

VITAL STATISTICS

(GT5E)

Engine     2226cc/5-cyl/OHC

Power      136bhp@5700rpm

Torque     137lb ft@3500rpm

Maximum speed 120mph

0-60mph9.1sec

Fuel consumption   26-34mpg

Transmission        FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Four cylinders good

The 8V 112bhp 1.8-litre Audi Coupé’s engine was donated from the Volkswagen Golf GTI, and is, therefore, a well known quantity. It’s strong and well respected, and as long as the cambelt is changed every four years or 40,000 miles, and the oil changes have been religiously adhered to on at least an annual basis, don’t be afraid of odometer readings of more than 150,000.

Five cylinders better

Like the four-cylinder version, the top of the range Coupés prove strong and reliable over huge mileages. They are sensitive to regular oil changes, and if the hydraulic tappets are noisy, that’s a sign it’s been less than rigorously maintained.  

Cooling critical

The five-cylinder Coupé has quite a small side-mounted radiator, and cooling capacity can be marginal. Make sure there are no signs of previous overheating, and that the fan cuts in at temperature. Also, it’s advised to do a full coolant change at least once every two years, as the waterways can clog up. Also water pumps aren’t that long-lived – five years on average. 

Corrosion is a killer

Unlike later galvanised Audis, the Coupé can rot like an Alfasud on a trip to Blackpool. Vulnerable areas are the boot floor, thanks to a leaking bootlid, the windscreen surround, and there can be issues with the front strut tops, too. Later models have plastic sill extensions, so check closely for hidden grot behind them. 

Quattro maladies

The four-wheel drive system deserves a buying guide all to itself, and although it’s rugged and long-lived, it’s not infallable. Watch out for whining differentials, and driveline clonks – these are easy tell-tales that all is not well. Walk away if there’s uneven tyre wear, or mismatched brands are fitted.

Don’t get caught short

The main concern with these cars is that so many parts are simply no longer available. So don’t shrug off a cracked headlamp or bumper, because you’ll be searching hard for a replacement. The same is true inside – and although most switchgear and fittings are reliable, they are nigh-on irreplaceable. Seat trim is the same – it wears out on the bolsters and you can’t replace it. 

OUR VERDICT

Forgetting the whole ‘Fire up the Quattro’ phenomenom, which is ancient history now, here’s a car that combines fabulous oh-so 1980s styling, rugged mechanicals, charismatic power units, the option of four-wheel drive, and a surprising amount of interior room.

If you’re expecting sports car thrills, then be prepared to be slightly disappointed. The Coupé’s steering is a little on the remote side, and the handling feels a bit saloon-like (unsurprising, considering it’s so closely related to the 80). And even in the most powerful 2.2-litre fuel injected form, none of them is particularly quick – instead you could be generous and say ‘brisk’. 

Prices of good Coupés are picking up after too many years in secondhand-land, but they are still good value compared with the more exotic (in classic terms) Ford Capri or Volkswagen Scirocco. And as for ownership, it could be argued that the more mature Audi trumps both of those alternatives.

Our pick of the range would definitely be a pre-facelift 2.2-litre GT 5E, although the later interior is a far nicer place to sit. But any one will give you many years of classic enjoyment.

AUDI 100 REVIEW

When was the last time you saw a C1-series Audi 100 Coupé S? Not recently, we’d bet. Less than 3200 made it onto the UK market and, of those, fewer than 50 are thought to have survived. In terms of rarity, this is up there with the Iso Grifo and Aston Martin DBS it so closely resembles.
It matches the Grifo and DBS in terms of lounge-lizard looks, too. Back in 1973, when the car in our photos was first registered, it was considered to be little more than an overpriced Volkswagen lookalike, but today the car has matured into a svelte, hunkered-down GT that carries with it more than a whiff of 1960s Mustang. Simply put, it’s absolutely stunning, especially with our test example’s vivid metallic blue paint and delicate chrome. 
Enough gawping. We need to go for a drive. Grasp the substantial chrome door handle, thumb the equally jumbo-sized push-button beneath and haul open the large, heavy door before stepping down into a world of 1970s Teutonic splendour.
Sink into the vast blue driver’s seat and pause awhile to drink in the details the almost comically huge steering wheel, the wood trim that calls to mind the teak you used to get on ’70s music centres, the Size 10 organ pedal throttle, and the quartet of green-on-black dials garnished with bright orange needles. Push the ignition key into the slot to the left of the steering column and the 1.9-litre fourcylinder engine coughs into life before settling into a slightly offbeat thrum that carries a vague timbre of the quattro’s trademark fivecylinder burble that would follow years later.
Then you go to snap your seatbelt into place, and puzzle over the apparently broken set-up missing its metal buckle. The penny drops…the Germans did things differently back then. Instead of a buckle, you loop the belt into a snap-jaw mechanism bolted to the floor. Well, it’s better than nothing…
The gearshift is one of few chinks in the 100’s armour – the throw is very long and rather vague, and each gear hits home with an indistinct slush rather than a rifle-bolt click – but the 1.9-litre ‘four’ is a little honey that punches well above its weight.
The long-winded gearbox takes the sporting edge off the car, but the engine delivers a hardedged engine note as the revs rise, and there’s an impressive amount of feedback through that Ark Royal tiller of a steering wheel.
Handling is on the soft side, but there is an almost boundless supply of grip. The rearwheel drive chassis feels surprisingly lively, given that it’s a simple live axle; no doubt the rear end becomes quite entertaining in the wet.
As a consummate cruiser, however, the Audi impresses, despite its lack of a fifth gear. While 118lb ft of torque doesn’t sound like much, it comes on song at a relatively lowly 3500rpm, meaning motorway overtakes rarely require a drop down into a lower gear. 

Audi 100 Trivia

• Just over 30,600 100 Coupés were sold during the C1’s production cycle. Its UK price at launch was a whopping £2418.
• All 100 Coupés were fitted with an advanced (for the time) brake stabilisation system that claimed to eliminate skids and unruly pulling to one side.
• There is a UK club dedicated specifically to the Audi 100 Coupé S.
• It is generally agreed that cars built up to 1973 used a higher grade of steel than those built from 1974 onwards.
• The 1.9-litre engine in well-maintained cars routinely covers more than 100,000 miles without a rebuild, with 150,000-milers by no means unheard of.