The Fiat Coupe 20v Turbo has followed a similar value ascent to its great 1990s Italian coupe rival, the Alfa GTV. However, this particular example is a bit of a unicorn as it’s believed to be the only UK car built in 2001.
FIAT 124 SPIDER REVIEW
Perfect for some summer fun, we look at this stylish and peppy Italian drop-top
Chrome-bumper models are the most sought after, but all versions benefit from glorious Pininfarina styling
An intriguing alternative to the MGB and Alfa Spider, the Fiat was a Pininfarina design that was made for almost two decades. Proven mechanicals and pretty looks contributed to that longevity and with all cars built in left-hand drive, more than 80 per cent went to the USA. Regular updates kept things fresh, including the later fuel-injected 2.0-litre engines which added performance the smaller-engined models lacked
VITAL STATISTICS
Fiat 124 Spider 1800
Engine 1756cc/4-cylinder/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 116bhp@6000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 113lb ft@4000rpm
Top speed 116mph
0-60mph 9.6sec
Consumption 28mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Potentially hefty restoration costs make checking for rot a vital task. Take a close look at the doors, wings, and wheel arches as well as the inner wings, front suspension turrets, and jacking points. The floor pan behind the rear seats needs careful examination, but it’s the sills that probably need most attention – the three-piece construction adds vital strength and removing the cosmetic bolt-on outer cover is the only way to be sure of their condition. A check of the panel gaps and door shut-lines will reveal any signs of accident damage too. Watch for bodged right-hand drive conversions as well. Panels for early examples are getting rare – especially replacement bonnets – while doors aren’t always interchangeable between models. It’s not unusual to find incorrect items used as replacements.
ENGINE
The twin-cam engines are fundamentally strong with proper maintenance though it’s worth checking for blown head gaskets (‘mayonnaise’ under the oil cap is the giveaway), oil leaks and excessive exhaust smoke. Cambelts aren’t known for early failure but check the history to see when it was last changed. Carburettor models used Solex or Weber units and wear can cause lumpy running, while the Bosch fuel-injection system is generally trouble-free. A test drive will reveal any issues in this area. It’s worth checking for impact damage to the sump which sits quite close to the ground – even if the sump itself is okay, the impact can damage the oil pump within so a flickering oil light will need urgent investigation to avoid terminal engine damage.
RUNNING GEAR
Gearboxes that are allowed to run low on oil will lead to excessive wear and noise, while jumping out of gear can be a problem. Back axles are a weak point too – particularly on 2.0-litre models – so listen out for whines or clunks as re-builds can be time consuming and expensive. The suspension and all-round disc brakes aren’t really problematic, so very much a case of checking for wear and tear.
Worn bushes and an ineffective handbrake are likely to be the extent of the problems assuming the previous owner was generally conscientious. A seized idler arm can cause stiff or vague steering though. One area worth checking is the front crossmember which can corrode and crack, so clunks from the front end or wandering on the road should ring alarm bells.
INTERIOR
Interior trim parts for early cars are getting scarce, replacing the upholstery, carpets or door cards on most models is straightforward. Watch for splits in the top of the dashboard – normally caused by sun damage, which can be tricky to repair. Broken seat backs can also be a problem. Check for water ingress and leaking heater units that can lead to corrosion and ensure the hood and frame are undamaged. Electrical issues are likely to be caused by poor earth connections or a degraded wiring loom.
OUR VERDICT
Interior trim parts for early cars are getting scarce, replacing the upholstery, carpets or door cards on most models is straightforward. Watch for splits in the top of the dashboard – normally caused by sun damage, which can be tricky to repair. Broken seat backs can also be a problem. Check for water ingress and leaking heater units that can lead to corrosion and ensure the hood and frame are undamaged. Electrical issues are likely to be caused by poor earth connections or a degraded wiring loom.
FIAT UNO REVIEW
fiaThe Fiat Uno Turbo is potent, fun and ever so fragile...
Like many cars of its ilk, the Fiat Uno Turbo relied on forced induction to achieve its Golf GTI-rivalling performance, but the sophistication of its IHI turbo/Magnetti Marelli engine management installation set it apart from earlier rivals. Launched in 1985, it was also state-of-the-art in terms of its packaging – its Giugiaro-styled body had a drag co-efficient of 0.34, and its interior was the roomiest in its class. And thanks to big boost and 105bhp from 1.3 litres, it remains a great deal of fun to drive to this day.
VITAL STATISTICS
1985 Fiat Uno Turbo ie
Engine 1301cc/4-cyl/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 105bhp@5750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 108lb ft@3200rpm
Top speed 122mph
0-60mph 8.3sec
Consumption 30mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Fiat has a horrendous reputation for corrosion, which is unjustified once we’re into the 1980s. Thanks to careful design engineering, the Uno is far less rust-prone than the car it replaced, the 127. That’s not to say it isn’t immune – rust can spring up anywhere underneath, so make sure you get it on a ramp for a close inspection. First port of call should be the floor seams – if these are lifting, the floor panels will need replacing. Also check the sills, lifting any plastic skirts for a good look.
Next, check around the fuel tank mounts, boot floor and spare wheel well. A full seam inspection is needed from below – they could be well undersealed, so do take extra care, and look for distorted or splitting seams. Other weak areas are the rear turret top mounts. While underneath, poke around the front inner wings and Macpherson strut turrets and suspension arms, which are all common corrosion areas. And there’s also the engine subframe, which is an absolute pain to weld in situ.
The body is more resilient. The windscreen scuttle and surround is a known weak spot, and tough to repair without removing the windscreen, while the doors and tailgates can rot quickly, especially if their drain holes are blocked. Finally, the sunroof surround and mechanism are rot-prone and difficult to fix.
ENGINE
The Uno Turbo needs an understanding owner who likes to change the oil regularly, preferably every 3000 miles. Fiat SOHC engines are tough, but the turbo places strains, which regular doses of semi-synthetic go a long way to alleviating. Engine life is around 120,000 miles.
Turbos need a close look, so check for white smoke when cold and blue smoke when hot. Check the turbo boosts as it should without too much bearing and wastegate noise. Early cars with an IHI turbo are more costly to rebuild than later Garrett-equipped cars (£400 vs £300). Also check all oil pipes feeding the turbo, and that all breathers and vacuum pipes are in good order. The front-mounted intercooler is also vulnerable to damage.
The fuelling system has been known to cause problems, especially with its injectors – and because of high under-bonnet heat levels, the fuel rail can corrode and become porous. The fuel pump needs to be in tip-top condition, and is located near the tank underneath the car – check it’s delivering as it should. Many owners have fitted secondary pumps.
Finally, ask when the cambelt was last changed, and how regularly it’s been done. These engines might be tough, but they demand OEM high-quality belts and need them changing every 30,000 miles.
RUNNING GEAR
Owners love to lower their Uno Turbos. However, if you’re looking at a lowered car, make sure it’s by no more than 30mm and has good quality springs and – more importantly – dampers (by Pi or Spax) fitted. Suspension is by Macpherson struts all round and most issues affecting handling precision are down to old bushes. Luckily there are plenty of uprated items to choose from, although popular polypropylene items can lead to a harsh ride. Strut braces sharpen the handling and improve steering precision.
INTERIOR
The main problem with Fiat interiors of this period is cheap materials. This, combined with the potential of water ingress from a leaking sunroof, can spell trouble. The first thing to look for is a sagging roofliner – the material lifts from the backing and is a pain to repair. Also, the seat and door trim materials wear (especially on the earlier car) and replacements are hard to find.
The plastic used on the dashboard is brittle, so make sure it’s all together; it will be difficult to find small trim pieces. Finally, check that all switchgear is operating, and that all warning lights and instruments work as they should. Although the wiring is of acceptable quality, bad earths are a real issue and will cause all manner of random problems. Don’t necessarily conclude that a non-working electric window is a broken motor, or that an ineffectual fan blower is a big fix – they could be down to dirty and corroded earthing points.
OUR VERDICT
With a 0-60mph of less than seven seconds and a top speed of more than 120mph, Fiat Uno Turbos still feel fast today. But the kart-style steering and surprisingly capable suspension mean it’s not just the speed that captures your attention. Of course, there are some downsides – supply of cars and parts are far from plentiful, and you’ll need to keep it garaged and tend it regularly. However, Turbo values are still quite reasonable. Best advice is to buy with care and go for an unmodified or lightly upgraded car.
FIAT 500 REVIEW
Fiat 500 Classic Car Review
The replacement for FIAT's much-loved 500 Topolino, the Nuova 500 debuted in 1957. A radical departure from its predecessors essentially pre-war design, FIAT's new baby featured unitary construction, an opening fabric roof and all-independent suspension while carrying its engine at the rear. The latter was an air-cooled, overhead-valve twin – the first such used by FIAT – and the gearbox was a four-speeder. Introduced in 1968 alongside the standard 500F, the deluxe Fiat 500L, while mechanically identical, came with exterior cosmetic enhancements and an improved interior featuring new instrument panel, seats and floor covering. An immense success for FIAT, almost 3,000,000 of these adorable little cars had been sold when production ceased in 1975. The 500 remains as popular today as it ever was.
Approach a classic 500 for the first time and you can't fail to be struck by just how small it is, with every part seemingly made in half scale. So does it feel just as compact on the inside? Well, yes and no.
You're certainly not going to find plenty of lounging room – it would be somewhat strange to expect otherwise – but despite the titchy external dimensions you rarely feel cramped behind the wheel, and as with the Mini extra passengers can be squeezed in without too much discomfort. Sliding back the sunroof provides an even airier feel.
What you’ll also notice straightaway is the pared-back nature of the cabin. There are motorcycles with more instrumentation and switches than this, but it doesn’t detract from the enjoyment in the slightest. Instead you can just revel in the delightful simplicity of the whole thing, free of the complication and fripperies that adorn many a modern car’s interior. Even the small, flat seats are more comfortable than they look over longer distances.
And the driving experience? Well it benefits from the same simplicity and sense of fun as the rest of the car, the tiny air-cooled twin threshing away behind you as you pin throttle to floor to extract the last ounce of performance. Yes the stopwatch tells you this is a very slow car, taking over half a minute to hit 50mph, but it doesn’t feel that way from behind the steering wheel as you’re simply too busy grinning at the sheer fun of the thing. The only fly in the ointment is the non-synchromesh gearbox, so it pays to have brushed up on your double-declutching skills, but the gearchange itself is accurate enough to allow you to make the most of the power available. The rest of the controls require no special allowances though; the steering is light and direct, adding to the sense of agility, while the drum brakes are powerful enough as long as they are in good condition. Ride and handling are pretty adept too, adding to the 500’s fun, chuckable appeal.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 499cc/2-cyl/OHV
Power 21.5bhp@4600rpm
Torque 22lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 65mph
0-60mph 33sec
Economy 45mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The 500 rusts with the best of them so you’ll need to check every panel and seam. All of the usual spots need examining - sills, wheelarches, door bottoms - but pay particular attention to the front panel behind the headlamps; the rear engine lid; and around the front and rear screens. Inner and outer wings can disintegrate, and make sure you check the front luggage compartment focusing on the battery tray and the area beneath the spare wheel. Sourcing panels for the very earliest models and estate can be tricky too.
Rot in the floorpan can be a major issue on neglected cars - leaking fabric sunroofs won’t have helped here either, but they are cheap to replace - so make sure you lift the carpets and get the car on a ramp to be certain of condition. While underneath, check the state of the suspension mounting points, especially the rear springs, and make sure that crash damage hasn’t knocked the engine and gearbox out of kilter. And look for poor panel fit and filler-laden bodywork - high restoration costs means bodgery is rife.
ENGINE
The engines are tough little units but it pays to check for signs of neglect. Expect a few oil leaks - usually from sump and rocker cover gaskets - but these shouldn’t be too serious while excessive exhaust smoke points to an imminent rebuild. Correct operation of the engine cooling flaps is vital and erratic running or stalling can signify a unit with overheating problems - if left it will destroy the head gaskets, or worse the aluminium heads themselves. Check to see the flaps haven’t been wedged open to mask a problem. Worn timing chains aren’t uncommon while starting problems are often caused by a worn carburettor or distributor - failed ignition condensers can be a particular bugbear. The little twin benefits from regular plug changes too, using good-quality items. Giardiniera engines are laid on their side and cooling arrangements differ slightly, but otherwise the same caveats apply.
It’s also worth ensuring the engine is the correct one for the year as swaps are fairly common, including a change to the slightly more powerful unit from the Fiat 126. It's fine if done properly but it might upset the purists out there. The non-synchromesh gearbox is generally robust, but if it’s excessively noisy or jumps out gear budget for replacement, or a professional rebuild as it’s not an especially easy DIY task.
SUSPENSION
The suspension is a straightforward set-up, but it can suffer from a few issues. Aside from rusty mounting points you also need to check for corrosion or cracks in the rear semi-trailing arms, and for corrosion in the transverse front leaf spring. If the latter appears to be bulging in places, chances are it's rotten and at risk of breakage (regular lubrication can prevent the problem). Ask the owner or vendor about the greasing regime too as the front kingpins need lubricating every 1000-1500 miles and they’ll seize and fail if this is ignored.
STEERING
Vague steering or uneven tyre wear points to wear in the worm and sector steering box and/or idler arm, and if the steering feels stiff it’s likely to have been over-adjusted to cure play. Refurbishment is neither especially difficult nor expensive. The drum brakes are fine with regular maintenance, so if they feel spongy or particularly ineffective it’s likely that leaking wheel cylinders or seized adjusters are to blame. An overhaul is simple and cheap but they need proper setting-up.
INTERIOR
The interior is simplicity itself, so wear and tear will be immediately apparent. A re-trim is fairly straightforward then, but bear in mind that some early trim parts and dashboard components may be hard to source so finding one that’s complete and in working order is best. And on imports it’s also worth checking that any right-hand drive conversions have been done properly – get a specialist inspection if you’re not sure.
OUR VERDICT
If it’s performance you’re after you’ll need to look elsewhere, but if owning a fun and quirky classic floats your boat the 500 is almost irresistible. It’s not without problems though so you’ll need to buy carefully but a car as charming and characterful as this one will provide a unique ownership experience. It’s an appealing and very tempting proposition.
CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - FIAT 600
Fiat 600 Review
The Fiat 600 may seem like the less popular, uglier version of the Fiat 500, but this car had plenty of things going for it. The 600 started off with a 633cc 4 cylinder engine that was water cooled, whereas the 500 only had a 479cc engine without water cooling. U.K. sales were never that strong due to the phenomenal success of the Mini; however it was a strong seller in other parts of the world, as it was declared the best selling car of the 1960s in Argentina.
It was produced between 1955 and 1969 costing 590,000 lire. It is also credited as being the first rear engine Fiat ever. It had four drum brakes with a unique suspension set up with independent coil over shock absorbers.
The 600D was introduced in 1970, boasting a 767cc engine which boosted the top speed to a steady 68mph. The 600 always was a show stopper, especially when it was first introduced at Geneva motor show in 1955. But many people felt that it could be improved, which led to a number of iants.
Related cars include the Seat 600 which was exactly the same but made in Spain for the Spanish market, and the Zastava 750 which was made under license in Yugoslavia, which was slightly longer than the standard Fiat 600. The Seat 600 spawned an unusual 5 door iant, the 800. It featured front suicide doors and looked as though two doors had been welded onto the back of the current 600.
The 600 multipla was sold from 1956 to 1965 and managed to seat 6 people in a floor plan of just 50 centimetres. The back two rows could be folded flat to accommodate a large load space, or kept up to seat 4 or 6 people. The 600 Ghia Jolly was a multipla based convertible that managed to retain its six seater status, but with the added comfort of wicker seats.
Abarth took delivery of Fiat 600s in 1956 and began making them into Fiat Abarth 750s. The 750 included a modified 767cc engine with high compression pistons, a lighter flywheel and a new crankshaft. A larger capacity radiator was also fitted to help aid cooling. The 750 was capable of 0-60 in less than 20 seconds and a top speed of 81 mph. Abarth needed to make the car visually distinguishable from the 600 so added red stripes along each side, an Abarth Grille and Abarth wheel trims.
FIAT BARCHETTA REVIEW
Forget its Punto origins and the lack of a steering wheel on the right side – the Barchetta handles beautifully and offers a lot of classic roadster for the money.
We Brits might have snubbed the beautiful Barchetta en-masse when it was new – thanks to Fiat’s refusal to sell it here with right-hand-drive – but it now makes great sense an affordable 1990s sports car.
Despite undercutting Mazda’s MX-5 and the MGF when new the slower sales mean it’s now a much rarer sight in the UK, but once you’ve got used to the Barchetta’s LHD layout (which takes all of five minutes) you’ll be treated to one of Fiat’s best looking and best handling cars.
It was sold here in two stints – the original 1995-2002 cars, built by Maggiora before its bankruptcy that year, and then a facelifted model built by Fiat itself at its Mirafiori plant between 2003 and 2005.
Whichever version you go for the Barchetta is a grin-inducingly good drive – and you’d never get bored of looking at its pert, Andreas Zapatinas-penned proportions.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1747cc/4-cyl/DOHC
POWER 130bhp@6300rpm
TORQUE 121lb ft@4300pm
MAXIMUM SPEED 120mph
0-60MPH 7.9sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION 27-33mpg
TRANSMISSION FWD, five-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
IS IT AN IMPORT?
The Barchetta’s LHD layout – and the predictably slow sales in the UK as a result – means plenty of buyers have imported cars, particularly from Germany and Holland. While there’s nothing wrong with these cars there’s a good chance they’ll have the instruments calibrated in KM/H and the incorrect lights – and don’t pay the premium UK market Barchettas fetch for one.
DOES IT SOUND LIKE A LONDON TAXI?
In 1999 there was a recall for a sticky control valve on the engine’s variable valve timing, which if left unrepaired both blunted performance and gave the Barchetta with an uneven, diesel-esque engine note. Check the history and find out if the work’s been done – and the engine should be smooth and eager to rev when starting up.
A GRAND OPENING
The slimline door handles are one of the Barchetta’s best stylistic features – but they are prone to failing with age, so check both carefully as replacement items can be tricky to source. It’s also worth checking the roof for signs of damage – if they’ve been folded on particularly cold days they can get damaged. Cars sold with hard top roofs go for a premium – typically around £700 – but look at them carefully for any signs of them letting in leaks.
WATCH FOR PRANGED CARS
The Barchetta’s body is galvanised so corrosion isn’t too much of an issue. If you see any rust setting in, particularly around panel caps or near the corners of the car, it could be a sign of poorly repaired accident damage, as are any uneven panel gaps or signs of overspray. Key places to check for signs of any crash damage are the inner panels under the bonet, the sills for straightness, the rear structure underneath the car and the inner structure of the boot.
HOW’S THE PAINT?
You’re more likely to see signs of stone chips or blemishes, particularly around the bonnet edge and the front bumper. They’re easily treatable if they’re minor cosmetic blemishes – and shouldn’t put you off buying one – but cars with parking-related dents that need replacement panels are trickier to sort out.
SEE RED OVER A MISSING KEY
Barchettas were sold new with a master key – distinguished by its red plastic grip, rather than the blue grip used on the car normally used when driving the car. These keys were used by Fiat dealers were used for recoding replacement keys and cannot be reordered – so view a car being sold without one with suspicion. Swap the battery over and you’ll need the master key for the immobiliser to allow you to start up again, so it’s a potential headache if you haven’t got one.
OUR VERDICT
While it might cost more than an MX-5 of the same age it’s better looking and due to their comparative scarcity in the UK far more likely to attract intrigued glances at classic events. It’s also big fun to drive – dismiss it as a Punto roadster at your peril – and the parts commonality with other 1990s Fiats mean that sourcing replacement mechanicals is far from tricky. Buy one that’s been looked after and carry on cherishing it – that way you’ll end up with a curvaceous Italian roadster before the rest of the UK realises what it missed out on and starts pushing prices up.
FIAT COUPE REVIEW
Classic Fiat Coupe Review
Launched in 1993 with a four cylinder 2.0-litre derivative of the Fiat Twin-cam, the Tipo-platform based Fiat Coupé was a hit. Later five cylinder and turbocharged examples only added to the car’s appeal, with the turbo the fastest front-wheel drive car of 1995. With edgy, ahead of its time styling by Chris Bangle, a stylish Pininfarina interior and a marvellous driving experience, it makes an excellent modern classic today. Want to buy into the Fiat Coupé experience? Read on.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1998cc/5-cyl/DOHC
Power 145bhp@6100rpm
Torque 137lb ft@4500rpm
Top Speed 132mph
0-60mph 8.9sec
Economy 25mpg
Gearbox 5- or 6-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
Watch the underbonnet scuttle panel for corrosion; a known weakspot. The sills usually have stonechip protection, but if this has worn and stones have damaged the paintwork, blisters can start and the sills can become vulnerable. The exhaust tailpipe rusts where the chrome trim is spotwelded to it, and the trim can fall off. And watch around the rear lights for issues too. We’ve heard of issues with subframe mountings and radiator mountings, and the rear arches aren’t immune either.
Engine and Gearbox
Even Fiat dealers weren’t always aware of the servicing schedules for the Coupe, so make sure you read the service history. A full Fiat history is desirable, but if it’s been care for by a specialist that’s even better. Exhaust manifolds can crack, and replacement could cost up to £500 to be done properly. Cambelts need changing regularly – every 72000 miles/6yrs on 20vs and every 30000 miles on 16vs. Check 20v cars for clutch slip – replacing a clutch is a fiddly job and isn’t cheap. It’s easier to do it while changing the cambelt – so best to combine the two if they need doing. Leave it on tickover after the test drive and check for blue smoke – this will indicate worn turbo oil seals.
Running Gear
As 65% of the weight is over the front end, suspension can wear from as low as 40000 miles. Listen for clonks that could be failing wishbones, track rod ends or ARB droplinks. Also check the brakes by braking hard from 70mph. The steering wheel shouldn’t shudder – a slight even vibration may indicate grooved and uprated discs. Don’t panic about brakes squealing when warm – all Fiat Coupes suffer from this and it’s normal.
Interior
Cloth was standard on early and low spec cars, with leather available throughout in beige and tan. Leather is more desirable, especially when twinned with the optional air conditioning system. This will often need re-gassing, but be sure it’s not a faulty system! The grab handles in the back can shear, and while it’s meant to have a rear ashtray they’re usually missing – double check this! Check the heated mirrors, too – they operate on the rear demister circuit, repair is difficult and replacement expensive.
Electrics
Fiat Coupés come with three keys in three different colours. Blue denotes a "service/valet" key, silver the normal key and red the master key. If your car is missing the red key, don’t buy it. This master key contains all the ECU coding crucial for setting new keys and tying them into the ECU. Check it’s a real red key – turn the ignition on and off, leave the key in, and turn the ignition on. The word CODE should remain lit on the dash. A new keyset and ECU – if you can source it – won’t be cheap. Also check the standard alarm by locking the car on the remote, leaving it two minutes, and then attempting to open with the key. If it doesn’t sound, something’s wrong.
VERDICT
Why should you buy one? Because you want a daily driver that’s separate, that looks like nothing else and has one of the best front-drive chassis in the business. You’d like to tell the world you own an Italian sportscar, yet practicality means you need the surprisingly commodious boot and the occasional rear seats. Or maybe it was the car you dreamed of as you climbed the dreary Vectra-led company car ladder in the mid 1990s. Regardless of why you want it, now’s the time to buy.
FIAT 126 REVIEW
Cheaper and quirkier than the Beetle, 2CV and Mini, this Italian peoples’ car costs less than £2000...
There’s never a dull moment when driving any 126 – it may lack the earlier 500’s inherent cutesy charm, but the driving experience is very similar, from the wheezing, rattly engine, through to the darty handling and bouncy ride. Don’t expect Mini Cooper levels of performance – two cylinders and 704cc are purely for city slicking – and while it will do 70mph, you really don’t want to be caught out on the M6 in one surrounded by lorries, coaches and low-flying Audis. No, the 126’s home is the urban cut-and-thrust, where its tiny size makes it a breeze to thread through traffic and probably the easiest car there is to park. You’ll take forever to get through a tank of petrol, and all-round visibility is excellent. Do indulge in the odd B-road blast, though – you don’t need big speeds to have big fun in one of these.
VITAL STATISTICS
Fiat 126
Engine 704cc/2-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 26bhp@4500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 36lb ft@2000rpm
Top speed 72mph
0-60mph 36sec
Consumption 55mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
All 126s rust pretty much anywhere. Polish cars were built from better steel and had generally improved build quality, so are well worth seeking out. Obvious key areas to look out for include the sills, jacking points and foot wells. The battery tray lives next to the spare wheel well, too, which will often cause severe rot.
Doors, especially on later cars with plastic trim, are particularly prone to rot. The scuttle is another known rot-spot, but much more likely to be a problem on the BIS models rather than the air-cooled cars. Pretty much all panels are available, new, from various sources.
ELECTRICS
Ill-fitting quarter lights or leaking sunroofs are often the cause of damp floors. Check also the headlight and windscreen surrounds – these are good first indicators as to general condition.
RUNNING GEAR
All 126s have a straight twin layout and four-speed gearbox, and servicing is vitally important. The centrifugal oil filter often gets overlooked as it is awkward to access. On the whole they are so basic that most problems are not catastrophic, but they do tend to suffer niggling maladies. They are noisy, but shouldn’t clatter once warm. The starter motor is very exposed, often leading to problems. Cleaning the contacts is probably all that is needed.
126s do not like to stand inactive for long periods of time and will respond in kind with a variety of problems. Sticky accelerator problems are common, but very easily sorted. Bad starting and vapour locks can often be remedied with a one-way fuel valve. Fuel tanks tend to corrode internally and fuel pumps are another popular issue – electric fuel pumps are a common modification. A service will sort most maladies but, as with all old cars, you’ll lose them if you don’t use them.
All 126s have a straight cut first gear with a reverse idler, so first and reverse are always a little whiny. There is no synchromesh on first gear so double de-clutching is essential. If there are any rumbling noises from within the gearbox, then it’s likely to be damaged.
Difficulty selecting gears due to a sloppy stick is probably caused by a worn flexible linkage. Replacements
are available for less than £5. Gearbox oil seals can be problematic, but are also cheap
to replace.
BRAKES
The brakes lack discs or servos, but they are sufficient to bring the car’s sub-700kg to a halt. King pins and the flexible driveshaft couplings need regular greasing to avoid wear. Rear swing arms are a rot spot. If the car is leaning, it will probably need the transverse leaf spring on the front suspension replacing. Uneven wear on the front tyres will probably mean worn track rod ends.
INTERIOR
The interior is very basic, so with the notable exception of the BIS rear seat, pretty much everything is available. Driver’s seats wear badly, but have easily-replaced covers. The headlining is often missing as are the parcel shelves on the BIS. Headlights are dim, and the standard electrics are not really sufficient for upgraded bulbs. RHD headlight units are no longer available.
OUR VERDICT
The 126 is a brilliant little starter classic, with cheap insurance, good parts supply and an enthusiastic owners club. Great handling, and small enough to nip through traffic, it is perfect for a bit of inner city or twisty back road nostalgia. Italian production ceased in 1979, with all subsequent 126s being built in Poland – avoid post-94 cars, which rot horrifically.
FIAT X1/9 REVIEW
Classic Fiat X1/9 Review
It brought mid-engined motoring to the masses, but a quarter of a century after the last X1/9 was made, the number of survivors has dwindled alarmingly.
Until the arrival of the Fiat X1/9 in 1972, mid-engined sportscars were exotic and unattainable for anyone of modest means. However, while this sporting Fiat was the first mid-engined car to be built in significant numbers (in a 17-year production run, 163,750 were built), it never made much of an impact in the UK. Here we were wedded to the idea of low-tech, front-engined sportsters from British marques – the notion of an affordable sportster with its powerplant in the middle just didn’t cut much ice.
By the time the classic British sportscars had been killed off, the hot hatch revolution was underway, and once again the X1/9 was overshadowed. It didn’t help that the mid-engined Fiat wasn’t anything like as well built as most of its potential rivals.
Despite its exotic looks, the X1/9 took all of its mechanicals from existing Fiat models. The 1300cc engine and four-speed gearbox were borrowed from the 128; thanks to their being mounted in the middle of the car, the handling was a joy. This wasn’t lost on motoring writers of the time, who also loved the economy, comfort and excellent crash resistance. But they weren’t so impressed by the fact that flat out, the X1/9 could just about muster 100mph; the four-speed gearbox also meant a busy engine on the motorway.
The answer came in 1979, when Fiat fitted a 1.5-litre OHC engine and five-speed gearbox more usually seen in the Strada. The result was a 110mph top speed and more relaxed cruising. Unfortunately, the car grew huge US-spec impact bumpers at the same time, which didn’t please the purists. By 1982, production had been farmed out to Bertone, which introduced the high-spec VS, complete with leather trim, two-tone paintwork and electric windows. But the writing was on the wall thanks to the arrival of the Toyota MR2 in 1984, and by 1989 the X1/9 had been consigned to history. Now, it’s reckoned that fewer than 500 roadworthy examples survive in the UK.
VITAL STATISTICS
X19 1500
Engine 1498cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 85@6000
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 87@3200
Top speed 112mph
0-60mph 10.6sec
Consumption 37mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
By far the biggest issue that faces X1/9 owners is keeping corrosion at bay, as the factory-applied rustproofing was terrible. Replacement panels dried up soon after the X1/9 went out of production; now, all that’s available are costly, hand-made (in the UK) parts that take six months to produce.
Rot can strike anywhere, but any corrosion tends to be obvious rather than hidden. The front and rear wing bottoms, sills, door bottoms and wheelarches are the first areas to go, along with the front and rear valances. The doors rot badly to the point where reskinning isn’t an option; also check the windscreen surround, the engine and luggage compartment lids plus the rear shock absorber towers. Nose panels can rot spectacularly, just like the panel at the base of the windscreen; repairing the latter is particularly likely to be involved.
ENGINE
Engines notch up 100,000 miles easily, if maintained. The 1300 and 1500 engines were borrowed from the 128 then the Strada, and they’re easier to access for servicing than you might think. All X1/9 engines have a cam belt that should be replaced every four years or 36,000 miles, while setting the valve clearances is awkward as it’s done with shims. The most likely issues are oil leaks from between the camshaft carrier and cylinder head, while head gasket failure can be an issue with 1300 engines.
The engine’s location means it’s susceptible to overheating if the cooling system isn’t kept in tip-top condition. There’s a thermostatically controlled electric fan (check it works) while the nose-mounted radiator corrodes and gets covered in debris. The alloy engine can corrode internally if anti-freeze levels aren’t maintained, while the steel pipes that run from the radiator to the engine can corrode inside and out; they need to be flushed through occasionally. This latter job can easily cost £600 to fix. Thermostat housings go brittle with age, then break; many used ones have been bodged with putty, so beware. Also beware of the draining system having been drained, so it doesn’t leak – it has been known.
RUNNING GEAR
The running gear is generally reliable. Brake callipers can seize though, along with handbrake cables on sparingly used cars – there’s no servo to go wrong. The handbrake clips on the rear calipers also seize up, and as the callipers are fragile, it’s easy to damage them when working on them. Modern brake upgrades are available for £700-£1000 – they fit straight on.
SUSPENSION
The balljoints in the front and rear suspension often wear; the former are easily replaced, but the latter are costly as they’re integral with the lower wishbone. Four-speed gearboxes tend to last well, but the five-speed units are much weaker, suffering from particularly poor synchromesh on second and third.
INTERIOR & TRIM
Low-quality interior trim pretty much guarantees problems, as the carpets tend to fall apart. Split seat trim is also a fact of life for X1/9 owners – especially on the driver’s side. The 1300 got cloth trim, the 1500 vinyl while the Lido featured Alcantara trim and the VS has leather-covered seats – none last very well. Unsurprisingly, replacement interior trim has been unavailable for years, which is why a costly retrim is the only long-term solution.
Electrical problems are common, with the headlight relays and diodes often failing. The same goes for the electric windows – and if the glass is raised and lowered by hand instead (as most are), the operating cables can break. Repairs to the windows are a real pain... Modified electrics are particularly likely to cause grief, so check for anything having been spliced into the system. Another weak spot is the alternator; it’s a poor-quality Marelli unit that’s positioned to pick up water and dirt all too easily. The result is complete failure, but Bosch and Lucas alternatives are available; they’re much more reliable.
OUR VERDICT
The X1/9 represents a great buy if you rate driving fun above practicality. It’s unusual, great value and running costs are manageable too. But if you’re not to rue the day you bought your sporty Fiat, you need to track down a really good example, and that’s not as easy as you might think.
FIAT 127 REVIEW
Fiat 127 Review
As early as 1947, Fiat's genius chief engineer Dante Giacosa had patented his transverse engine design. Unfortunately, chief test driver Carlo Slalmano hated front-wheel drive cars and hindered their development at Fiat. But he left the company in 1962 and Giacosa, also prompted by Issigonis' Mini, resumed developing his FWD transmission package.
This resulted in the Autobianchi Primula, which, in 1964, sported a transverse engine whose crankshaft was in the same axis as the gearbox: simple, reliable, cheap to make and very compact. At last convinced, Fiat's leaders decided to make a wider use of it. In 1969, two cars appeared that pushed the formula forward: the 128, a small family car, and the A112, a city car. Then came project X1/4 - the future Fiat 127, whose development had begun in 1968.
It was simply penned by Pio Manzoni as a two-box coupe, replacing noth the 850 and 850 Sport. It was as roomy as a Ford Escort whilst boasting a decent boot. But it was with its remarkable handling that it stood out. It also had excellent performance, frugality and low price. Fiat had unintentionally found the very recipe of a supermini. the state-of-the-art 127 was crowned 1972 CoTY, and a hatchback was offered as an option that year.
The 127 immediately became a sale hit, which led all Fiat's European rivals to copy its packaging: Audi's 50 and Ford's Fiesta, in order of appearance.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 903cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power: 47bhp@6200rpm
Torque: 46lb ft@3500rpm
Maximum speed: 87mph
0-60mph: 15.0 sec
Fuel comsumption: 37-43mpg
Transmission: FWD, 4-spd manual