Vauxhall Calibra: Buying guide

Vauxhall’s Calibra was stunning when new and is still a very handsome herd of horses.

The Calibra was promoted with the slogan ‘a coupe without compromise.’ And although that was a little bit of flannel – for underneath, it compromised by using the Cavalier as its platform – this was the car that reintroduced the idea of the affordable coupe. It kickstarted a whole new trend for these, as well as ushering in the adoption of svelte and sleek curves again, something that the angular ‘80s had largely eschewed.       

VITAL STATISTICS

Vauxhall Calibra 2.5i V6

Engine           2498cc/V6/DOHC

Power            168bhp@6000rpm

Torque          169lb ft@4200rpm

Top speed    147mph

0-60mph        7.3sec

Economy      27mpg

Gearbox        5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork
Rust shouldn’t be that much of a problem. However, look under any plastic trim for any indications of blossoming tin worm. The inner rear arches and quarters are sensitive spots, best checked from inside the boot with the carpets pulled aside. The boot floor and spare wheel well also corrode, as can the sills. Blocked drain holes are usually the cause, as they are with the sunroof, which can go around its edges, accompanied by water staining and warping of the headlining inside. On pre-1994 cars, the door bottoms can also go flaky.    

Because these are high performance machines, there’s every chance they might have been crashed then badly repaired. Ripples and unusual welds in the inner wings under the bonnet point to this and also scrutinise for uneven panel gaps.

Engine and Gearbox
On the four-cylinder cars, frequent oil changes are crucial to the life of turbochargers and actuators on the Turbo models. A conscientious owner will have done these at a third of the recommended Vauxhall schedule. Blue smoke on idle points to worn oil seals here. The normally-aspirated eight-valve is pretty tough, the 16-valve ‘Redtop’ less so, thanks to cracked or porous heads. So look for signs of overheating and head gasket issues and evidence that the coolant level has been religiously maintained. The 16-valve Ecotec is quite notorious for sensor problems, so be wary of any lights showing on the dashboard or a car that won’t rev properly.   

The V6 engine is robust and unstressed. However, as changing the three rear spark plugs involves removing the inlet manifold, question the owner as to when this was last done. It can get skipped because of its difficulty.  

Gearboxes are usually fine, but transfer boxes on the 4x4 turbos aren’t known for their longevity, especially if the four tyres have been allowed to wear unevenly. Check for equal treads.

With the handbrake on, increase the revs to about 900rpm and gently release the clutch. Eventually, the car should stall; if it doesn’t, then it points to this item needing replacement.

Running Gear
Press down on each corner of the car a few times; if it bounces more than a few times when released, it signals that the shock absorbers need replacing. Lower wishbone arms can break, causing the suspension to collapse. These are best checked over by a specialist. Steering racks can leak, so check the PAS reservoir. On 4x4 cars this is even more crucial as the transfer box shares the fluid.

Brakes don’t normally play up save for warped discs – a judder through the pedal – while ABS wheel sensors can fail and the common bodge is just to disconnect them. Check the light comes on at ignition but then goes out.

Interior and Electrics

Wear is common on seat side bolsters and the steering wheel. Leather interiors generally fare better than cloth ones. Check all the switches work – especially the sticking-prone hazard warning one – although with much shared with the Cavalier, replacements are easy to source. Make sure items like the electric windows, heated seats, mirrors and sunroof still behave as they should.   

OUR VERDICT

It’s not often that you can legitimately refer to a Vauxhall as sexy and not have people nervously back away from you. However the Calibra is all that and as it gains genuine classic status, appreciation for it is on the rise. And that will cause the prices to follow suit. The 4x4 Turbos deliver blistering performance, but do require much looking after, so a V6 is our recommendation for Calibra power with reliability and practicality.    

VAUXHALL 14/40 REVIEW

The new 14/40 2.3-litre 'M' Type of 1922 was introduced alongside the 4-litre 'D' Type touring car and the 4 1/2-litre E-Type 30/98. In its initial form, the 14/40 was essentially a modern design with detachable cylinder head, three-speed in-unit gearbox, single plate clutch and both pairs of brakes on the rear wheels only. Vauxhalls were intended to be enjoyed by owners who simply enjoyed serious motoring in well-engineered and capable cars.

VAUXHALL 30/98 REVIEW

After the first World War when the Vauxhall 30/98 resumed production, there simply was nothing else on the road that was faster in 1920. Initially introduced as the E-type with a side-valve 4,500cc engine and just rear wheel brakes, the later OE type had a 4.25-litre engine, the swift introduction of front wheel brakes soon afterwards contributing more worthwhile braking capacity to console the faster driver. The king of all sporting vintage cars and fairly described as a gentleman's fast touring car, a total of 111 of the Vauxhall chassis were produced in 1924, the most for any year the model was produced. Paradoxically however, three out of every five produced were sold in Australia.

VAUXHALL 23/60 REVIEW

Synonymous with high quality touring cars and the finest sporting cars, Vauxhall was on a par with Bentley and Sunbeam. In 1922 a new detachable cylinder head was introduced with dramatic improvements for the new OD and OE models, including pushrod overhead valves. The 23/60 is a delightful and practical tourer, of impeccable Edwardian ancestry, surviving in production until 1926 when the Luton company was taken over by General Motors. The Kington tourer body was offered on both the D and OD models, a style not dissimilar to the Velox 30/98 body, but more spacious, at 10' 10'' wheelbase, to the 30/98's 9' 9 1/2'', with 65mph from the 4-litre engine which developed a respectable 60bhp at a leisurely 2000rpm.

VAUXHALL CAVALIER REVIEW

It's often forgotten just how important a place the Cavalier MkI has in Vauxhall's history. Along with the company's other 1975 debutante, the Chevette, it went a long way to restore the Luton company's reputation after years of being branded as a maker of cars that could do nothing well other than rust. Of course, that wasn't true - but bad reputations are hard to shift. These thinly-disguised Opels proved dependable in service and good to drive, and thanks to a nice mix of British and German design, they now make appealing and well thought of classics.
 
VITAL STATISTICS
Vauxhall Cavalier MkI (2.0GSL)
Engine 1979cc/4-cyl/cam-in-head
Power 100bhp@5400rpm
Torque 100lb ft@3800rpm
Top Speed 110mph
0-60mph 10.0sec
Fuel consumption 24-29mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
 
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Rust killed most of these, and despite being more resistant than the previous generation of Vauxhalls, there are still plenty of corrosion hot spots to look for. First, check the sills - both inner and outers can rot - and also look closely at the jacking points, which are also vulnerable. The floorpan is also susceptible, so look out for damp carpets, and an overall musty smell inside. The front wings can suffer, inside and out, at the joining seam, but that will be obvious, even from 10 paces. Finally pay close attention to the battery tray under the bonnet, and the inside of the A-pillar, which can rot, compromising the strength of the car. Cosmetic rot will be much easier to spot, but still costly to deal with, so scabby doors or wheelarches can lead to further heartbreak.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX
The 1256cc engine, available from 1977, is a doddle to maintain, and aside from getting rattly (easily sorted with a set of feeler gauges), there's not much to worry about. Watch for rusty core plugs and seized water pumps. The cam-in-head engines (1.6- and 1.9-litres from launch, 2.0-litres from 1978) are also tough, and easy to work on, although are known for developing oil leaks thanks to poor seals, pose few problems. Carburettors aren't brilliant, and most will have been changed by now. Also, automatic choke mechanisms get sticky, and most will have been changed by now, which means some cars will now have the aftermarket manual chokes. Parts are all readily available.

RUNNING GEAR
Not much to report here. Gearboxes are tough, but diffs can get whiney with high miles, while the springs, dampers and axles are all tough and superbly engineered.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
To be fair, there's not a lot to go wrong with the Cavalier's electrics - wiper stalks can fail, as can in the instruments (thanks to voltage meter failure), and it's not unknown for the heater blower and windscreen wipers to start playing up - this is easily spotted as the fuses will start to blow increasingly regularly. All are simple DIY fixes. Interior trim and parts are generally no longer available new, but aren't too hard to find online secondhand.
 
OUR VERDICT
A good Cavalier is still a joy to drive, and a superb reminder of how simple life was for professional drivers 40 years ago. They're still relatively cheap, but with numbers still thinning, that can't remain the case for much longer.

VAUXHALL FE VICTOR REVIEW

GM’s attempt at a large family saloon to suit fleet and private buyers fell short of expectation. But that’s no reason not to love it

Produced by General Motors from 1957 to 1976, the Vauxhall Victor was introduced to replace the Wyvern model and became Britain's most exported car.
With a body style derived from the '57 Chevrolet Bel Air, the original Victor was dubbed the F series with a production of more than 390,000 units. 
The FB ran from 1961 to 1964 but only achieved sales of 328,000 vehicles after it faced fierce competition from Pontiac, Oldsmobile and Buick in the US.
The FC (101) took over the Victor reins from the FB in 1964, and sold nearly 240,000 in its three-year life. Curved side windows - a first for Vauxhall - opened up interior space, while prominent chrome sunk into the front bumper hinted at a US influence at Luton.
Released in 1967, the FD was first launched at the British Motor Show but suffered from poor on-road performance and durability. Consequently, only 198,000 units were produced until it was superseded by the FE in March 1972. 
Vauxhall's FE was the last car created under Luton’s autonomy from German, Opel-based designs. It’s large, spacious, has a comfortable ride and a decent turn of pace. It’s transatlantic prow apes the Buick boat-tail Riviera while the rest of the hull could have come from the subtle pennings of a BMW designer – just check out the rear side-glass profile and C-pillar shape. They’re relatively easy to work on, and when they rot it’s honest rot. And they’re still cheap on the classic market, and as a second-classic or tow-bar equipped caravan hauler the 2279cc inclined inline four can’t be beaten for torque. Bill Blydenstein’s caravan-racing VX4/90 won the championship both times it was contested, and no one else would enter.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    2279cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  100bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 138lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                100mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual + Overdrive/3-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As with many of the 101’s peers, corrosion is your biggest enemy, despite Vauxhall’s Magic Mirror paint. The problem is that panels are a struggle to find and the curvy nature of the body makes seamless repairs very tricky. Floors, sills and wheelarches are obvious rot spots to check, but also look over the whole of the front wings and the lower section of the rears. Valances also suffer, so make sure you have a peek behind the chrome bumpers.
The orange blight also strikes around the windscreen aperture and the bulkhead – not easy areas to repair. The sills and front doors are shared with the PC Cresta and Viscount, though they’re not exactly blessed with an abundance of panels either. Exterior trim is nigh on impossible to source, so if you’re buying a project, its condition is important.

ENGINE

Fortunately, in best Vauxhall tradition, while the body may fall apart, the mechanicals are hardy and their simple nature makes them a great choice if you like to tinker at home. If the engine has clocked up 100,000 miles or more, you need to keep your eyes open for blue smoke as wear strikes. A full rebuild will cost around £1000, but it might be better to try and track down a good secondhand unit, which will be about £100. The VX4/90 has twin-carburettors and an aluminium, high-compression head, the latter making regular coolant changes important, so check for signs of water and oil mixing or for rust-coloured coolant.
Gearbox-wise, it’ll be obvious when a unit is worn as it’ll be very noisy. Gear selection issues on the three-speed are usually down to worn bushes on the linkage – not an expensive fix. The Powerglide automatics are rare, and you’re most likely to encounter a 4-speed floor shift. Rear axles can leak oil and will get very noisy very quickly if there’s no lubricant. Optionally from 1965 and standard fit from 1966, the VX4/90 had a limited slip differential, to ensure that you could lay down that entire 98lb ft of torque.

BRAKES

Steering is by recirculating ball, which means it isn’t the most accurate out there. Watch out for excessive play in the steering box, which certainly won’t help matters, and also keep an eye out for tight points as you go from lock to lock, in case someone has over-adjusted out any play. A replacement steering box won’t be easy to find.
Suspension is simple coil springs and wishbones up front, with leaf springs at the rear. Telescopic dampers can leak, springs can sag and worn bushes can cause nasty clunks. Front lower balljoints can wear, too. To avoid a nasty failure, jack the car up and use a pry bar to lift the wheel. A small amount of play is okay, but a significant amount means it’s replacement time.
Brakes are drum all-round for the Victor, with servo front discs on the VX4/90.

INTERIOR

Vinyl seats were standard fare, with individual front seats rather than a bench in the VX4/90. Cloth seats were optional and some were even specified with leather. Condition is everything as nothing is easily available, a situation not helped by almost annual tweaks. Electrics are fairly hardy, although you need to watch out for brittle wiring and dodgy earths causing components to fail.

OUR VERDICT

The FE is a marmite car. You love its ’70s style or hate it. Yet if you find a good one it’ll serve you well for years. They’re durable, strong and have ample space for five adults, as long as they’re in long trousers to avoid vinyl burns from those large Ambla seats. If you like cruising then a Victor has all you’ll need, while those looking for a car with hooligan attitude and the allure of 14" Rostyles will head straight to the twin-carbed VX4/90. These had standard-fit overdrive from ’72-’74, four-speed manual from ’74-’76 and a close-ratio Getrag five-speed gearbox in the final VX490 incarnation from 1977-’78. Lovers of straight-six power needn’t leave the room either, as the Ventora (and Victor 3300 estate until 1974) models featured plusher trim and more torque, though no more effective performance and (slightly) more ponderous handling. 

VAUXHALL VX220 REVIEW

The VX220 was screaming lunacy for a major manufacturer, but a great buy

Just clambering aboard is an experience, thanks to the small door opening and wide sill. That sets you up for an experience that is reassuringly old-school.

This is a car for driving, with few concessions to comfort. The steering is remarkably direct and full of feel, while the ride is firm but not jarring. Performance is extraordinary, especially on the Turbo. Cars of this era are so loaded up with safety kit that can blunt speed and handling. Not here – the 2.2 will race to 60mph in under six seconds. 

The unremarkable origins of the engines means that these cars are surprisingly docile and easy to drive around town. The reason that people indulge in track days soon becomes obvious though – it’s so hard to exploit the performance on public roads. Speed limits are reached in no time at all, and you’ll be keen to find roads free of traffic and other dangers.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  197bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 184lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                151mph

0-60mph                                  4.7sec

Consumption                            33mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

An HPi check is essential. An internet search gives plenty of options. A very large number of VX220s have been written off, but this can be for minor bodywork damage. The ‘clams’ that make up the front and rear bodywork can be very expensive to replace, though aftermarket options are now available. 

Check the low nose for stonechip damage. It’s very common and can be expensive to sort out properly. Blistering is possible on the body, usually on the doors or top of the rear clam. It’s a problem well known in owners circles and it is unsightly. It will require someone with glassfibre skills to put right. Many cars suffered this even when they were new and were repaired under warranty by Vauxhall dealers with varying degrees of success.

ENGINE

Engines are entirely run-of-the-mill, plucked from Vauxhall’s Vectra range, so parts are plentiful. The 2.2 uses a timing chain, so check for a rattle from start-up. They’re very tricky to replace with the engine in-situ but replacement every 60,000 miles is considered sensible. The Turbo uses a 2.0-litre engine with a timing belt, which should be replaced every four years or 40,000 miles. Check the water temperature on a test drive as water pumps can fail, causing overheating. They’re also very tricky to replace. On the Turbo, listen out for a ticking noise, which might be a cracked exhaust manifold. Engine mounts can wear badly, especially if the car has been driven hard. Replacements are around £30 each.

ELECTRICS

On a test drive, make sure the ABS light illuminates and then goes out as it should, and if possible, test that the ABS is functioning. The system fitted to most VXs is deemed a bit over zealous so some disable it – which may cause issues at MoT time.

RUNNING GEAR

Check the front-mounted radiator for damage and/or leaks and then see if you can check the wishbone mountings for the front suspension. Any damage here is very bad news as the aluminium main structure is not repairable. It’s very difficult to check thoroughly due to an extensive undertray, so check the tyres for unusual wear patterns.

The tyres are unique to the model and unlike the Elise, use 17-inch wheels all round. The 175-section front tyres are £140 each, while the rears can be as little as £90. Some fit aftermarket wheels for more choice – then fronts can cost just £60 each. The rear track control arm (or toe link) can suffer from seized balljoints. Failure is pretty catastrophic, so ask if they have been replaced, especially on a track car. An upgrade is available from Lotus specialists. Getting the geometry checked every few years is very wise.

BRAKES

Brake discs are off-the-shelf Vectra. Pad upgrades are considered wise, but the AP front calipers and Brembo rears tend to be reliable. They’re the same as the Elise. Some owners are tempted to fit sports exhaust systems. Check on the test drive that the result is not too harsh on the ears. 

OUR VERDICT

If you want a proper driver’s car, then the VX220 is about as good as it gets. Values seem lower than the equivalent Elise, which tells you a lot about badge snobbery. It isn’t a car you’d want to use everyday, but weekend fun is guaranteed. The only downside is that you may well find yourself booking track time to really get the best out of one. 

VAUXHALL VIVA HC REVIEW

In its time, the Vauxhall Viva HC was the most popular car to come out of Luton. And it’s still one of the most affordable...

Looking for some cheap fun? Then look no further. Few classics are more affordable than the Vauxhall Viva HC. Once seen on every street corner, Viva numbers have dwindled in recent years. But there are still some crackers out there waiting to be snapped up.

The HA Viva was the first Vauxhall to achieve a six-figure production run and, by the early 1970s, had easily become Vauxhall’s best-selling car ever. 

It helped that there was a version for everyone thanks to numerous engines, body styles and trim levels. But while the Firenza and Magnum get all the attention, the standard HC can be great fun thanks to its rear-wheel drive and ample tuning opportunities. Take a closer look and you’ll be amazed at how much fun you can have with even the most meagre of budgets. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1159-2279cc/4-cyl/OHV/OHC 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  49-112bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 88-150lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                88-100+mph

0-60mph                                  (1256cc)13.1sec

Consumption                            22-35mpg

 Gearbox                                    4-speed man/3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

It’ll come as no surprise that it’s corrosion which has killed off most Vivas. In typical 1970s fashion, these cars can rot spectacularly, so you need to check every square inch of bodywork for filler. Even if the car looks good at first glance, you must pay especially close attention to the rear wheelarches, front wings, shock absorber turrets and the A-pillars where they meet the windscreen – these are always the first areas to go, as are the inner wings by the headlamps and at the bonnet hinges. Early cars have ‘high-peak’ front wings at the forward edge, so check the car you are looking at is correct. 

ENGINE

Over its production run, Viva HC buyers could choose between five engines, starting with an 1159cc overhead-valve unit. Later came a 1256cc OHV powerplant, while a 1599cc OHC engine wsa available for the power hungry. From 1972, the 1599cc unit was replaced by 1759cc and 2279cc OHC lumps.

A good service will do wonders whatever engine is fitted. But even when in good nick, Viva powerplants are noisy. Although the 1256cc unit is stronger than the 1159cc unit, it isn’t as free-revving.

OHV units will see 60,000 miles as long as decent 20/50 oil has been put in every 3000 miles. Overhead cam units are stronger, though 1599cc and 1759cc versions should also have had a fresh belt within the past 20,000 miles. 2279cc versions are ‘safe’ if the belt breaks but the smaller ones aren’t. Beware long delays for oil pressure build-up as OHC oil pumps are scarce. 

Heater matrixes can leak, and all Vivas can be prone to hot-running with marginal cooling systems.

RUNNING GEAR

Most Vivas have a four-speed manual gearbox, although a few have a GM three-speed auto, although these are now ultra-rare. Each gearbox is reliable, though OHV four-speed boxes can whine like a milk float. Check auto transmission fluid to ensure it’s not black or dark brown. If it is, there’s a rebuild round the corner.

The two ball joints on each side of the front suspension can wear, the lower ones especially. Early HCs had drum brakes all round, with servo-assisted discs optional – post-1973 HCs and the SL90 featured front discs as standard. It’s worth fitting disc brakes to an early car, but bits are only available secondhand.

There are no self-adjusters on cars with front drums, so if they appear past their best it should just be a case of tweaking them manually. Incidentally, Girling and Lockheed parts were mixed and matched during production depending on who was on strike at the time, so having a Girling master cylinder doesn’t mean the front and/or rear brakes aren’t Lockheed.

INTERIOR

New trim is extinct and used bits are now scarce. The number of different variations doesn’t help, but it’s all fairly hard wearing, though pale dashtops can discolour and all can split. 

The electrical system is simple, though headlamp switches can fail.  Everything is available but headlamps are rare, costing £30-£40. Distributors wear quickly in early engines, as the oil pump neck into which the distributor spindle fits was offset, but in later engines it was centred. Problems occur when straight-slot dizzy’s are forced into offset oil pumps.

OUR VERDICT

With Viva values, you’re not spending enough money to get your fingers burned. Vauxhall made no bones about the fact that these cars were simply appliances to get from A to B, with economy being the most important thing. With cars being scrapped and banger-raced, they’re disappearing quickly. So if you’ve never got round to buying one, you might not have much time left.

VAUXHALL ASTRA GTE MK2 REVIEW

Desired, stolen, thrashed and crashed: the Astra GTE has now made it into the classic world

Choose a later GTE and you’ll get the impressive digital dashboard display. It works well and the 1980s graphics are a constant reminder of the car’s heyday. You can admire it while you sit in comfortable Recaro buckets.

All GTEs are brisk, but the 16v is positively scintillating. With 60mph coming up in less than eight seconds, you can certainly surprise much more modern cars, although the brakes and handling are likely to be pushed a bit too far. After a few high-speed stops, the brakes begin to suffer. 

Similarly, the handling is a bit of a struggle at speed. Understeer will kick in strongly if you try entering a bend too quickly, but the tail can snap out when you then ease off the throttle. Aftermarket goodies can aid handling, but this doesn’t mean you have to ‘slam’ the car into the ground. Overall, though, this is a very practical car that is always a pleasure to drive and is becoming a much less common sight on the roads and at shows.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  150bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 150lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed                                131mph

0-60mph                                  7.6sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Check the bodykit for damage and fitment, and check it isn’t hiding corrosion. Astras rot everywhere: the body kit can hide horrors. Check around the front suspension strut tops and the bulkhead – especially around the brake servo; any rot here should be an MoT failure and repairs are tricky. The steering rack can be ripped out of the bulkhead by the power, especially on the 16v. With the car stationary, go from lock to lock and see if the pedals move – if they do, walk away. Door locks may be repaired from ‘screwdrivering’ theft entries.

Check the sills and rear wheelarches. The extra trim here can make inspection difficult so you ideally need to get under the car. Rear arches are often bodged, but repair sections are available. While underneath, check the rear suspension mounting areas. Many an Astra is uneconomical to repair due to rust here. 

Get underneath the back end and check the rear bumper apron isn’t hiding rust, especially around the chassis. If a sports exhaust is fitted, check that it isn’t too loud and that you can live with the noise. The GTE has a different tailgate to other Astras; the wiper mounts directly on the glass above the rear spoiler.

ENGINE

The original powerplants were 1.8-litre or 2-litre four-cylinder 8v, but the real tyre-scorcher was the 2-litre 16v. Engine swaps are very common – it’s not something for purists, but if an upgrade has taken place, make sure it has been done well; messy wiring and bodged pipework are not good signs. Whatever the engine, watch for blue smoke from the exhaust which suggests worn internals. Camshafts can get clattery with age and neglect, and the timing belt should be changed every 40,000 miles or five years. 

Make sure your GTE is the genuine article and not simply a tarted-up Merit with a bodged engine swap. Check the VIN and engine numbers against the V5 for a start. Do they match? A genuine GTE should have a 43 VIN code prefix. The 16v has a much-modified bodyshell with a raised transmission tunnel and a full crossmember in front of the engine. 

RUNNING GEAR

Wheel, tyre and suspension modifications are common, so make sure the result isn’t an ill-handling mess – the right mods will improve the handling. Check the wheels for damage and the tyres for condition; a budget brand suggests penny-pinching. Make sure the braking is strong and even. The 16v has rear discs rather than the drums of the 8v.

INTERIOR

Examine the seat bolsters for damage and cigarette and ‘blim burns’ on seat fabrics. If the later digital dashboard is fitted, make sure it all works. Analogue dials could be specified even later in the GTE’s production life, so don’t be surprised if a digital dash is not fitted. Check the headlining for condition and make sure the electrical equipment is functioning. Electric windows get slow with age. Pre-1988 GTEs have fewer toys. All interior trim is hard to find.

The majority of GTEs were three-door hatchbacks, but a few were built as convertibles and there are a handful of five-door GTEs too. A desirable variant is the Champion of 1990, a 16v in deep metallic red with leather interior; only 500 were built.

OUR VERDICT

Vauxhall created a fine hot hatch with the GTE. The 115bhp 1.8-litre version is now very rare, as most people want the extra performance of later models. However, you still get more than 120mph and a 0-60mph time of just under 10 seconds. Don’t rule it out – especially as some might find the 150bhp 16v just a bit too lairy – it did expose the handling weaknesses of the car. The 123bhp 2-litre is a good compromise.

Vauxhalls always had engines that sounded pleasantly gruff, and they’re very tough, too. Tune-up options are plentiful – if that’s your thing – although the market is already giving priority to cars that are untouched. Genuine, unmolested cars are getting very rare.

The Astra GTE is proof that the hot hatch market was not just limited to the Golf or 205 GTI arena. It’s an impressive car with enough robustness to be used regularly. As classic hot hatches go, you’d be a fool to rule it out.

VAUXHALL VICTOR F-SERIES REVIEW

With translatlantic styling and a bullet-proof engine, the original Victor seemed like a recipe for success in the 1950s. It sold well, too... but you’ll have to hunt hard to find one now

Slip behind the wheel, making sure not to catch your knees on the dog’s leg projection that carries the windscreen wrap-around, and settle into a remarkable period piece. 

Even the instrument panel makes you think of
a 1950s juke box; there’s a big plastic-rimmed
wheel and, as you look around the cabin, you can’t miss the two-toned interior. It will probably smell of vinyl, too. 

The engine’s a surprisingly flexible slogger and the gearing is low – but with much higher gearing you wouldn’t be going anywhere very fast. You quickly get used to the three-speed column change and the rather vague recirculating-ball steering, but the all-round drum brakes need a bit of forethought until you’re confident. 

The live rear axle hops around a bit on bumpy roads, and the skinny crossply tyres mean you’ll corner gingerly until you’ve got the full measure of the car.

VITAL STATISTICS

VAUxHALL VICTOR F-SERIES - Series II 

Engine                                    1508cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  55bhp@4200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 85lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                74mph

0-60mph                                  28.1sec

Consumption                            30mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The F-series Victors are a rare find today, and there’s a reason: rust. The old joke about the cars rusting before they left the factory was made for a reason! Unitary construction was in its early days when Vauxhall drew up the design, and nobody had thought about rust traps. The Victor’s shell is full of them. So rebuilding a rusty Victor will demand a lot of skill and a lot of time; if you don’t have an abundance of both, we’d advise you not to try. Professional restoration will cost far more than the cars are currently worth.

Check the inner sills for rust; you should also examine the whole of the underbody area. The really critical area is that around the rear spring-hangers, which sit right in the middle of a major rust zone. You’ll find rust in the rear floor under the seat, and in bad cases it spreads right across the car and up the inner wheelarch. Patching is feasible in some cases, but unless it’s been done very skilfully it will be immediately obvious when you open the back doors.

Rust on the outside of the body will be only too apparent, especially in the rear wheelarches, rear wings, front wings and front panel. 

There’s a lot of chrome on an F-series Victor, and most of it will do its best to rust. The Super models have extra, around the windows, and there were optional ‘bonnet birds’ – chromed bullets that sit on the front of the bonnet. Particular problems are the bulbous bumper ends on Series I cars, especially the left-hand rear where exhaust fumes always attack the chrome finish. Your best bet will be to salvage damaged chrome and have it re-plated; it costs, but you could wait forever to find decent replacement items. Chrome trim often did not line up very well when the cars were new, and you could spend many fruitless hours trying to achieve perfection – which would not be original!

ENGINE

The engines have a single Zenith carburettor and are both simple to maintain and long-lived. They are derivatives of earlier Vauxhall types and enjoy good spares support. There are no special weaknesses of the three-speed gearboxes, although the column change may need adjustment to work without crunching the gears. During 1958, a Newtondrive two-pedal transmission option was introduced, but it wasn’t very reliable and soon disappeared. There are probably no survivors.

BRAKES

Estates are exceptionally rare, and only about a dozen survive in the UK. Apart from the obvious body differences, they have a lower rear axle ratio and an extra leaf in the rear springs. Tyres are fatter, too.INTERIOR

The standard interior has two-tone upholstery, with bench seats front and rear, trimmed in Elastofab nylon and rayon. It will be difficult to find replacement trim material. The De Luxe models had individual front seats and leather upholstery – again in two-tone – and this is easier to replace. 

OUR VERDICT

When Vauxhall replaced their E-series Wyvern, Velox and Cresta models in early 1957, they replaced a single design with two new ones. In place of the six-cylinder Velox and Cresta came the PA model, while the Victor replaced the four-cylinder Wyvern. Both leaned heavily on US styling trends of the mid-1950s; Vauxhall was owned by GM, after all.

The major styling influence on the Victor was from the 1955 Chevrolet, and the new F series had the same sculpted rear door top, similar front end details, heavily curved front and rear screens, and lashings of chrome. As a much smaller car than the Chevy, it did look a bit overdone, but it seemed to be what the buyers wanted. In fact, the F-series Victor is said to have become Britain’s most exported car at the time.

A better-proportioned estate derivative joined the range in 1958, but from 1959 Series II versions of both models toned down the original styling. The sculpted door tops, exhaust emerging through the overrider, and teardrop flutes all disappeared. 

The links with the 1950s tend to overshadow everything else about these Victors. You don’t actually have to wear drapes and have a DA haircut, but it probably helps you to get into the spirit of ownership! The styling associated with the era was so distinctive that it can also be a deterrent to some people: you either love it or think it’s crass and over-the-top.

Driving the Victor is a bit of a so-so experience. Like most saloons of its era, it’s neither quick nor particularly reassuring in the handling department. These were bread-and-butter family saloons, for all their visual distinctiveness, and they behave like it. 

So... a show car but not an enthusiastic driver’s car; that’s our verdict. 

VAUXHALL FC VICTOR REVIEW

These Victors and their VX4/90 derivatives were once so common as to be not worth a second glance. Not any more, though

The ‘typical’ Vauxhall Victor 101 has a vast and slippery bench front seat, with a three-speed column change. The controls are pleasantly light, and the car is rather comfortable, which matches its reputation as a lazy cruiser.

The low gearing makes best use of the engine’s torque, so flexibility is surprisingly good. However, with a top speed of around 80mph, you’re thrashing the car at motorway speeds – and fuel consumption will suffer. The higher-geared VX4/90 will do 25mpg, but a hard-driven 101 can drop below the 20mpg mark. At higher speeds, there’s also a lot of wind noise, and the gearbox will be adding a musical howl to the proceedings.

Cornering is much as you would expect on skinny cross-plies, and body roll will discourage you from doing anything silly. As for brakes, remember that other drivers won’t expect your greater stopping distances, so allow plenty of space around you. 

Once you’ve got used to it, though, an FC Victor is quite a relaxing car to drive!

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1595cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  66bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 95lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  20.4sec

Consumption                            23mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The main reason for the low survival rate of the FC-series Victors is rust. Vauxhall had a reputation for it in the 1960s (and later, too), and the FCs didn’t disappoint in that respect. Though apparently more sturdily built than rival Fords, they seemed to rust just about everywhere. Look for rust in the sills, the rear wheel arches, the floorpan and around the rear spring hangers – but these are just starters. Almost anywhere below the waistline may show rot, and you’ll struggle to find replacement panels. That means items will most often have to be hand-made, which costs money.

ENGINE

The engines are pushrod OHV types, with an alloy head, higher compression and twin Zenith 34IV carburettors on the VX4/90. They are fairly robust units, if a little thrashy. Watch out for wear in the VX4/90’s twin carbs and also for wear in the throttle linkages. Gearboxes were noisy even when new, and there was a distinctive Vauxhall whine in all gears. This gets worse with age, but in itself doesn’t indicate that the gearbox is on the way out.

RUNNING GEAR

You won’t be spoiled for choice when looking for an FC Victor, but it’s worth knowing that the four-speed floor-change gearbox option makes for a better car than the three-speed column change type that was standard. The optional two-speed Powerglide automatic took away a slice of the car’s already minimal performance, and getting parts for it today is simply a lottery. The VX 4/90 came with a limited-slip differential that was optional at first but standard on 1966 and 1967 models.  

BRAKES

The standard braking system had drums all round, but there was an optional system with front discs and a servo, and this was standard on the VX4/90. It’s obviously preferable to the all-drum system if you can find a car that has it. A weakness on all models of the FC-series is that the self-adjusters on the rear brakes tend to seize up, especially if the car does not get regular use. You’ll know this is the problem if the brake pedal seems to have an excessively long travel before there’s any bite.

Suspension was soft when these cars were new, and they did roll on corners. However, it’s worth checking any car carefully for springs and dampers that are past their best, and for wear in the wishbones and ball joints at the front. Replacements can make a big difference.

INTERIOR

Replacing interior items will be a real problem, so make sure that the car you’re examining has decent upholstery and door trims. These Victors were made when moulded plastic was the fashion, and moulded plastic is notoriously difficult to replicate. Always look underneath any seat covers; they may be hiding something! There were both bench and individual front seat options, the bench giving occupants no support whatsoever when the car rolled in corners even though overall comfort levels were quite high.

OUR VERDICT

A Victor 101 is not everybody’s idea of a classic car, and scarce parts availability makes it one for the determined owner. But it offers a taste of motoring the way it was nearly half a century ago, and to get the full flavour of the experience you need to drive one for a long distance on quiet roads rather than flog it around crowded towns or on busy motorways.

As a 101 owner, you really must join a club for technical support and for assistance in finding spares. You’ll need to develop a taste for autojumbles, too, and for rummaging to find New Old Stock parts to stash away against the day when you’ll need them.

These cars are not glamorous, even though the VX4/90 with its extra side flash does have a dash of excitement about its appearance. They are cars for taking to summer shows and for enjoying on the way.

If you remember the 1960s and 1970s, you’ll remember Vauxhall’s FC-series Victors. The styling was a bit plain-Jane, but the cars gave plenty of family space in a medium-sized package, and with 1.6 litres under the bonnet were right at the heart of the everyday saloon range.

FC Victors arrived in 1964, and in three years of production a total of 219,814 examples were built. There were estate derivatives as well, and for those who wanted a bit more glamour there was the sporty VX4/90. In fact, ‘sporty’ was a relative term, and there were only 13,449 VX 4/90 models because the car couldn’t compete with the Cortina GT that had cornered the market.

Check out www.howmanyleft.com and the figures suggest there may be under 50 survivors in the UK, and not all of those are still on the road!

Naturally we think it’s time somebody did a bit more for awareness of these nostalgic machines. So let’s hear it for the Victor 101 – so called, we hear, because it had 101 improvements over the FB that it replaced.

VAUXHALL VIVA HB REVIEW

Seen as mere utilitarian transport when new, the Viva HB retains its charm today.

The HB Viva used a completely different suspension design from the HA, employing double-wishbone and coil springs with integrated telescopic dampers at the front, and trailing arms and coil springs at the rear. Lateral location and anti-squat of the rear axle was achieved using upper trailing arms mounted at approximately forty-five degrees, then fixed to lugs at the top of the differential. Both front and rear could also be fitted with optional anti-roll bars. The new and quite advanced suspension setup resulted in impressive handling, with the Viva setting new standards within its class. 

The steering is especially good, and the lightness of the controls resulted in thousands of Vivas being used as driving school cars. The driving experience could be better enjoyed in the high compression SL90, with power boosted to 59bhp. Many Viva GTs have been up-engined with later 2279cc slant-four power. An easy conversion, and one that’s hard to spot until you floor the throttle. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1967 Viva HB

Engine                                    1159cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  47bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 62lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  19sec

Consumption                            33mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

On HBs, the most vulnerable areas for corrosion are the front inner and outer wings and the front panel around the headlamps. Front inner wings also go 

at the back around the bonnet hinge mount. Rear arches and rear wing lower edges can get frilly.  Inspect rear damper mounts, outer and inner
sills plus the chassis legs: where these legs return under the bulkhead can rot and often means the car
gets scrapped. 

ENGINE

Whatever engine is fitted, Viva engines aren’t the quietest of powerplants, though a good service will often work wonders. The 1159cc engine isn’t as strong as the later 1256cc version, but it is a lot more free-revving. Whichever unit is fitted, it should be good for at least 60,000 miles, providing an oil and filter change with decent 20/50 has been undertaken every 3000 miles or so. 1599cc overhead cam units should also have a fresh timing belt every 30,000 miles as they are an interference engine. Bizarrely, the larger 1975cc and 2279cc motors aren’t, so cambelts (if they break) can simply be replaced. On pre-1968-OHV engines the timing chain tensioner is often overtightened, resulting in a strange moaning sound when the engine is revved above idle. Adjusting anti-clockwise is the cure, but by now most cars have been fitted with automatic chain tensioners anyway. If an engine has seen better days however, it is possible to find used replacements through one of the owners’ clubs. If the heater seems to have given up, it could be down to an air lock. As the heater’s outlet hose has to be disconnected and the cooling system refilled through it, many owners don’t fill it properly, if at all. 

ELECTRICS

Viva electrical systems are simple. Alternators were fitted from August 1969. Headlamps and indicator switches hardest to source.

RUNNING GEAR

Most surviving Vivas have manual gearboxes, although there are a few Borg Warner automatics about – the option was offered from February 1967. Both are generally reliable, but OHV manual boxes can get noisy with age. The Viva GT used a close-ratio version of the bigger Victor ‘box and a shortened example of the back axle from those models, that is well up to the torque generated by the GT’s 2-litre engine.

The HB’s coil sprung, double wishbone front suspension and wider track were a welcome advance. The suspension is generally durable, so there is little to worry about. Examine the two balljoints on each side of the front suspension – they can wear, particularly the lower ones. The first HBs (’66 model year) had no bump stops fitted, so check that the shock absorbers haven’t been damaged by over-enthusiastic driving.

  BRAKES

All HBs were fitted with 12-inch pressed steel wheels, except the GT, that had 13-inch items. Most Vivas had drum brakes all round, with servo-assisted discs available as an option. There are no self-adjusters on cars with front drums, so if they seem past their best, it’s a case of manually adjusting them. If you plan to do a lot of miles, then it’s worth swapping systems from a disc-braked car.

OUR VERDICT

Classics don’t really come more affordable than Vauxhall’s diminutive Viva. Once a staple of Britain’s street corners, numbers have dwindled in recent years, but there are still some sweeties just waiting to be picked up. 566,391 examples of the second phase HB model were built between 1966 and 1970, and by the early 1970s the Viva had become Vauxhall’s best selling car ever. It helped that there was a version for everyone – combine the different engines, body styles and trim levels, and there were over one hundred derivatives offered across three generations. With all versions having rear wheel drive and plenty of tuning potential, you’d be amazed at how much fun can be had on even the tightest of budgets. Look out for SL 90 1159cc hotter variant, or Brabham Viva tuned examples. 1599cc OHC examples could be ordered with GM’s excellent three-speed auto box, or as here, go for the pokey 2-litre GT model. It came in S1 then S2 variants, the later car with RoStyles seen here. 

Viva values are still on the low side. The car is both undervalued and rare. That isn’t to say they’re only worth snapping up because they’re cheap however. Vauxhall intended them as simple appliances for getting from A to B, with economy being most important. The HB offered a similar range choice to its competitor, the Escort with two-door, four-door and estate car options. Dynamics are arguably bette suited to classic ownership, with supple suspension and light steering and brakes. All versions are rare but sporty Brabham and GT variants even more scarce. If you’ve always thought a Viva would look nice on your driveway or in your garage, but have never quite got round to it, then now’s the time to snap one up.

VAUXHALL CHEVETTE (1975-84) REVIEW

‘It’s whatever you want it to be’ - for once the marketing folk weren’t exaggerating too much – and it is still an economic and energetic car choice...

It had its very own chirpy theme music on the TV adverts and we were told ‘It’s whatever you want it to be!’ – the first British-built hatchback had arrived.

The Chevette was Vauxhall’s version of parent company General Motors’ T-car project based on a universal ideal but with very different looking – and named -cars. Germany had its Opel Kadett, Australia had the Holden Gemini, while

Japan had the Isuzu 1600. The Chevette name was shared by Chevrolet in the US, but that was a different looking beast altogether

Arriving in the spring of 1975, Vauxhall’s three-door hatch might have been three years behind the Renault 5, but it was at least a year ahead of Ford’s Fiesta.

It was initially available only as a three-door hatchback in Base and L trims with just colour options, powered by a developed version of the Viva’s 1256cc engine. The overall lightness of the Chevette made up for its lack of power and it can just about keep up with today’s traffic in all-but the fast lane.

Originally priced at around £1600, there was plenty of competition in the price bracket but the Chevette offered around 50 miles to the gallon at 50mph, and fuel economy was beginning to matter more to motorists.

The range developed to include two- and four-door saloons, a three-door estate and even a light commercial – the Chevanne.  By the time that production of the Chevette finally finished in January 1984, being replaced by the already available Nova, around 415,000 Chevettes had been sold in the UK.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 1256cc/4-cyl/OHC

POWER 56bhp@5600rpm

TORQUE 69lb ft@2600rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED 88mph

0-60MPH 16.7sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 35-40mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD, four-spd man

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

ABSOLUTE ROTTERS

Early examples are reknown rotters, though post-1980 models with flush-fitting headlamps tend to fare better. Whatever the year, check everywhere thoroughly as it doesn’t take a lot to let the rot in and once it gets established there’s not much to slow its progress. Particularly prone areas include the sills and wheelarches, the joint between the wings plus the back of the wings. Also inspect the front valance, around the front air intake, floor pans and door bottoms. If it’s a hatchback, check that too. In fact, check everywhere.

SIMPLE FINDS

You won’t find an engine much simpler than the 1256cc power unit inherited from the Viva and it is easy to work on too, while finding parts via clubs, on the internet and specialists is not too difficult either. Rattling timing chains, rumbling bearings and worn rings are common faults, while a perished diaphragm in the carburettor will result in poor running. The key to improved power is better breathing and some owners have fitted larger Vauxhall or Ford Kent engines with the necessary mods to take them.

LIVE TRANSMISSION

Like the engine, the four-speed manual gearbox came from the Viva, with the main and tail shifts altered to make it fit. They are generally blessed with long life but worn synchromesh can cause concern and jumping gears. A reasonable amount of noise comes as standard.

STEERING COMMITTEE

The rack and pinion steering is direct, light and a pleasure to use if in good condition. Check for any play in the system. If you find wear, rebuilt or aftermarket choices are easily sourced. Good road holding comes courtesy of the double wishbone front suspension with the shock absorber on the top arm and a coil sprung rear axle with torque tube.

BRAKING POINTS

The disc/drum brake system is good, but carry out all the usual checks for rusty pipes, split hoses, and seized pistons. There should be at least five clicks on the handbrake lever to prevent the self-adjusting mechanism seizing up.

KEEPING TRIM

The sparse interior was simply trimmed with vinyl and this is thankfully hard wearing because original items in good condition are increasingly sought after. Rear seatbelts were not fitted to Chevettes but you can fit your own as you’ll find the mounts are in the bodyshell.

BEWARE OF FAKES

Because so few HS and HSR hot hatches were built in the first place any survivors are naturally at a premium price, so beware of fakes. Saloons are more common than hatchbacks, while estates and Chevannes are not often found for sale now.

ACE OF CLUBS

There are several groups that cater for Chevette owners and members can take advantage of great technical support, source of spares and even potential cars to buy. Get involved.

OUR VERDICT

The Chevette is one of those cars that defines a certain point in time and was seen as a good thing with its positive handling, straightforward mechanics and sharp looks.

That droopsnoot front end offered a more contemporary feel than the Opel Kadett and with the arrival of the similarly styled Cavalier there was a strong family feel to the Vauxhall range. Often you’d find a two-Vauxhall family with dad driving a Cavalier repmobile while mum preferred the Chevette.

Of course, Vauxhall wanted a younger audience for its car too and the 16-valve 2279cc HS hot hatchback provided that, later further refined with the HSR. Designed for rallying, the road versions of the HS took too long to make it to the showrooms, and in too limited numbers.

The standard Chevette has been overlooked by many classic buyers for too long but offers a lot for a reasonable outlay – it’s economical to run, good fun to drive, inexpensive to buy and practical to work on. All you need to do is find a good one.

VAUXHALL LOTUS CARLTON REVIEW

We examine this fastest ever production saloon, still, in the main, a depreciating bargain

This four-seater is more than capable of humbling supercars

After buying Lotus in 1986, General Motors put it to work creating a BMW M5 rival. The Carlton /Omega’s 3-litre straight-six was bored out to 3.6-litres, with two turbos bolted on. Inside a bespoke gear casing were the internals of a Chevy Corvette ZR-1 gearbox. The suspension was beefed up, the brakes replaced and a leather interior fitted. A hefty bodykit hinted at the car’s 176mph potential. 

VAUXHALL CARLTON/SENATOR REVIEW

Buying the 1980s-90s exec that's on the cusp of greatness...

Vauxhall Carlton/Senator

As hard as it is to imagine now, the 1986 Carlton and its big brother, the 1987 Senator, were both major players in corporate car parks across the UK. And with good reason - they were highly competent, good to drive, and technically advanced in comparison with the opposition.

But then, we're talking about an era when Vauxhall really understood what its buyers wanted, and gave it to them... with a cherry on top. So, the aerodynamically-styled saloons were offered with a range of four- and six-cylinder engines spanning a 1.8- to 3.0-litres, 90 to 200bhp, 110 to 150mph. Starting with the Carlton, you get a roomy saloon, and even more capricious estate, with all but the most lowly entry-level models, bristling with equipment. And that means you can enjoy driving these cars in today's traffic without feeling left behind. The more luxurious CDX and Diplomat models are the ones to go for, if you don't need a full-fat GSI 3000, as you'll get leather, alloys, lots of toys and ABS.

The real star of the range is the Senator. In either 12- or 24-valve form, these cars are fast and effortless motorway cruisrs that still have considerable road presence. They're getting rare which means that the days of bargains are over, but in general terms, any of these cars are still great value for money right now.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 2969cc/6-cyl/OHC

Power: 177bhp@5600rpm

Torque: 177lb ft@4400rpm

Maximum speed: 131mph

0-60mph: 8.4sec

Fuel consumption: 22-28mpg

Transmission: RWD, five-spd man

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Six-cylinder engines: tough workhorses

Six-cylinder power units are tough, and will cover huge mileages, if properly maintained. It's crucial to ensure that the timing chain tensioners have been replaced at 60,000 miles, if only to preserve the life of the chains. If this doesn't occur, the timing chains themselves can fail at mileages as low as 100,000-120,000. All power units are sensitive to timely oil changes - 12,000 is stretching it - and any rough running in fuel injected models will be down to failing air temperature or crank position sensors. Otherwise, these cars are good for 300,000 miles.

Four-cylinder engines: simplest for DIY

'Family II' engines have cambelts, and for safety's sake, make sure that they've been replaced within the past 40,000 miles or five years - any further or longer, and you're risking trouble if you don't get it changed. Servicing is easily within DIY capability, as these cars were designed for simple maintenance. This includes cambelt changes. Oil breathers of four-cylinder engines are known for getting blocked, and rattly top-end or noisy valve gear points to missed oil changes or general neglect - in which case, it's usually best to walk away.

Electrics: mostly good

Unless you're unlucky and go for an early 1.7-litre entry-level model, these cars are packed with equipment. But do ensure that electric windows, the sunroof and central locking work as they should. Most issues are down to dodgy switches or dry joints. And does the ABS work? Don't just rely on the indicator light, as it can - and often is - rigged. Other random issues, such as poor idling, flat spots or poor fuel consumption, can be down to the ECU connector developing dry joints that allow moisture in. All are easily resolved with time and patience.

The body (not so) beautiful

Rust is generally evident on these cars, so check for obvious signs at the rear of the inner sills, the strut tops, and most obviously at the rear arches. All are fiddly and time-consuming to repair in a satisfactory way. Rust also claims brake and fuel lines, so if you can, check that these are good.

Parts situation

Body panels and interior parts are getting scarce now, so make sure it's all in one piece. Don't laugh off missing trim - it can be a nightmare to replace like for like.

OUR VERDICT

You have a soft top for John Major's Britain, and you appreciate a classic car that's still very much under the radar. Carltons are understated, but in six-cylinder form, especially as a GSI 3000, they're mighty to drive, and capable of scaring BMWs and Jaguars as driver's cars.

But a Senator needs no justification - with that iconic chip-cutter grille, digital dashboard, and imposing styling it cuts quite an imposing figure at any classic car show. And yes, they're as good to drive as they are to look at.

And that's the heart of these cars' enduring appeal - you get a great car for the money. How long will it be before everyone else cottons on?