The Volkswagen Golf GTI commands respect and adoration from a serious number of fans. But is that justified, and is buying one now as quality-assured as it was in Thatcher’s decade? Read our comprehensive buying guide to find out…
CLASSIC VOLKSWAGEN REVIEWS
VOLKSWAGEN CORRADO REVIEW
VW’s classy early-’90s coupé is becoming more appreciated as a classic. But finding an original car can be a headache...
Dubbed a ‘future classic’ by none other than BBC’s Top Gear
Determinedly more up-market than the Scirocco with which its production overlapped, the VW Corrado started life as a possible Porsche design. It was based on the Golf Mk2’s underpinnings, and the first cars for the UK in 1989 had either the 16-valve 1.8-litre engine with 123bhp, or the supercharged G60 derivative with 158bhp. Either way, there was style as well as substance, with an attractively rounded two-door coupé body assembled by Karmann in Osnabrück.
Changes in 1992 saw the 1.8 replaced by 2.0, and the G60 give way to the 2.9-litre VR6. The VR6 took on suspension elements from the new MK3 Golf, including a wider front track. Front ends were re-designed across the range, with widened wings, new bonnet and bumper, and fewer grille slats. When production ended in 1995, about 9000 Corrados out of 97,521 built had reached the UK.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 2661cc/V6/SOHC per bank
Power (bhp@rpm) 190bhp@5800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 181lb ft@4200rpm
Top speed 145mph
0-60mph 6.4sec
Consumption 25mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The corrado always appealed to buyers who delight in fitting bodykits and making other modifications. There were good and bad bodykits, and you’ll see both. It’s your choice whether to avoid or tolerate them.
Bodykit or not, check that the standard elements of the body are in good condition. While the Corrado’s mechanical elements are pretty reasonably priced in the VW tradition, body panels are not. You’ll be looking at over £500 for a new rear bumper, for example.
Also remember that Corrado owners have often been rather enthusiastic drivers, so you should always check for evidence of crash damage that’s been repaired. The most obvious signs will be rippled metal in the inner wings or the boot floor.
Check that the rear spoiler does its party trick of extending above 45mph; double-check by using the manual over-ride switch on the dash.
ENGINE
The 16-valve 1.8 and 2.0 engines give less performance than the more powerful types, but are solidly reliable. There was an eight-valve 1.8 model, too, but it’s very rare and largely unloved.
The supercharged G60 was available in the UK for just over a year. It gives much better mid-range acceleration than any of the others, and is basically a 1.8-litre four-cylinder, but its weakness lies in the belt-driven supercharger, which can give up the ghost after high mileages. The supercharger needs regular health checks, so find yourself a good VW specialist. Worn parts need to be renewed if you want to avoid catastrophic failure.
All VR6 engines use oil, and their timing chains eventually stretch; check when the tensioner was last replaced. Head gaskets also go at around 60,000 miles, sometimes provoked by overheating after seizure of the electric cooling fan motor. VR6 cars are also more likely to have been abused than other Corrado types.
RUNNING GEAR
The suspension has MacPherson struts at the front, plus trailing arms on a torsion beam axle at the rear, with anti-roll bars at each end. It’s all familiar and robust stuff, so your main checks should be for worn bushes. However, beware of modified suspensions; there are reputable specialists around who do top-quality improvements, but there are also back-street bodgers.
Most cars have a five-speed manual gearbox, but a four-speed auto was offered as an option on the VR6. On the manual, listen for worn synchromesh crunching as you engage second, and make sure that the gears don’t jump out of mesh on the over-run. Wheels are a favourite for upgrading. The originals were 15-inch alloys, but many owners have switched to larger sizes.
INTERIOR
The early dashboard, switchgear and steering wheel are bland Passat items, so interiors are often modified. The 1993 and later cars had extra gauges and new switches, plus a more stylish three-spoke steering wheel.
Seats have plenty of shape and give good support, but favourite is the leather upholstery that added a touch of luxury and came as standard on the end-of-production Storm models in 1995. The standard striped or later ‘domino’ cloth is fairly hard-wearing, but it’s the leather that will be easier to replace if it’s been damaged. Electric windows and an electric sunroof were standard on 1991 and later cars, so check that they function correctly.
OUR VERDICT
The Corrado’s main attraction is that it’s a pocket performance car with good looks. It’s an affordable proposition either as a weekend toy or as an everyday "coming classic", and handling is simply enormous fun. Parts are not hard to find, there’s a strong on-line community of enthusiasts (from all around the world) for moral encouragement and practical help, and there’s a good chance that one day – but not just yet – the prices of really good cars will start to rise. No doubt about it, though: the G60 and VR6 models are the ones most likely to see long-term interest.
VOLKSWAGEN KARMANN REVIEW
The combination of VW reliability with Karmann's curvaceous hand-built bodywork has been turning heads ever since its launch at the 1955 Frankfurt Motor Show.
Although the original coupe looked like a sports car it was coupled with an 1192cc Beetle flat-four engine mustering just 30bhp. Its top speed would barely nudge 80mph. For some, this earned the Karmann Ghia the sobriquet 'economy Porsche'.
Italian design company Ghia styled the car and the first sleek body panels were fitted to Beetle platforms on Volkswagen's production line, before returning to Karmann for finishing. They are often referred to as 'low-lights' because of the headlight position.
Sales were sluggish at first, with just 500 models sold by the end of 1955. But 10,000 had left the production line by the end of the following year.
The original left-hand drive coupe was known as the Type 143, with the RHD version that followed in August 1959 dubbed 'Type 144'. Volkswagen introduced a left-hand drive convertible from August 1957 ('Type 141'), with the right-hand drive Type 142 cabriolet following two years later.
Predictably there were a large number of detail changes over the years, while the engine increased in capacity and power. From 1961, the Ghia featured an upgraded 34bhp 1192cc Beetle engine, together with all synchromesh transmission. A 40bhp 1285cc engine, a 44bhp 1493cc and - finally - a 50bhp 1584cc engine followed. Developments from 1967 included disc front brakes, a 12V electrical system and a stabilizing bar to improve handling.
The so-called 'razor edge' Type 34 Karmann Ghia coupe, used the Volkswagen 1500 saloon's drive train, but did not repeat its sister's success. The Type 34 was only made between 1962 and 1969. The Type 3 was the only air-cooled Volkswagen to have foglights built into the body as a standard feature, while also offering an electronically operated steel sliding sunroof as an option.
Karmann Ghia production continued until June 1974, when it finally made way for the Scirocco.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1584cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 55bhp@4000rpm
Torque 78lb ft@2800rpm
Top speed 86mph
0-60mph 18sec
Economy 32mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1. Those air-cooled engines are generally reliable but will always be better off for evidence of regular servicing with oil changes every 3000 miles (30-grade oil being the popular choice) and checking of valve clearances. Don't forget to check the oil level in the gearbox. On pre-1968 cars the gearbox oil also lubricates the wheel bearings. Minor oil leaks are not uncommon but a bigger leak from the rear crankshaft seal might need a rebuild or a replacement engine block. The fuel system on the early models had a reserve tank and tap with a filter that can clog and break up. Check for fuel leaks from the carburettor. Vague steering on early cars is often down to worn king link pins, the later ball joint front suspension being an improvement.
2. Bodywork is this car's Achilles Heel. Allow no area to escape scrutiny, as factory rust-proofing was negligible. Places to inspect include the front wings - especially around the headlamps - front and rear wheel arches, inners wings, door bottoms and rear quarter panels. It is difficult to replace body panels because they have welded-on wings with lead loaded seams, so amateurs often resort to bodging with filler. Panels, brightwork, early-style bumpers and rear lights are difficult to obtain in good condition. Some reproduction items are available and you will find items at swap meets. Even a small amount of collision damage could result in substantial expense. Too many signs of corrosion may mean the car is a no-no.
3. The brakes on early models were large drums and are relatively easy to maintain. From 1967, disc front brakes were introduced which give a worthwhile performance improvement. If a car has stood for a long time, check for seized calipers. Early calipers are not easy to find. Also check for brake pipe corrosion. If there is a lot of travel in the brake pedal, there's a possibility the seals of the master cylinder might have perished or split.
4. A damaged soft-top and its supporting framework can be expensive to rectify and a poor one will have let in the elements to do their worst in the sills and floorpan. Sills on convertibles will have been strengthened to improve the rigidity of the body and if the sills have rotted, a lot of expensive work lies ahead. Check the gap between the doors and rear quarter panels - it should be level. On a coupe, even replacing the headlining is not a straightforward task as it involves taking the front and rear windows, quarterlights and seals out.
5. Before you look under the bonnet, take a good look at the bonnet itself as they are rarely properly aligned. The same applies to the doors and the all-important gap around them - get the car jacked up and hope that you don't find too many discrepancies as a result of sill corrosion. Complete new doors are no longer available, while secondhand ones often don't fit properly. UV light, rain and wind will have taken their toll on the rubber seals, allowing water and dirt in that eats away at the metalwork. It's the same story withthe interior board door panels, which leads to giveaway paint bubbles forming on the outside. Replacing the relatively inexpensive rubber seals can potentially work wonders for the longevity of preserving large areas of these cars. Lift the bonnet lid and inspect the condition of the inner wings, spare wheel well and battery tray.
6. The constant exposure to sunlight - especially on US cars - can cause the dashboard to crack. Water can rot the carpets, too, while the seats inevitably split as a result of overall wear and tear. Interior trim specialists such as Newton Commercials or parts providers VW Heritage can help. It is not unknown for the platform beneath those far-from-practical rear seats to completely rot away.Lift the carpet to check the condition of the floorplan.
OUR VERDICT
Original and well-restored pre-1959 'low-light' cars are scarce and carry a hefty premium. Many have lowered suspension in an attempt to improve handling, and aftermarket wheels and hubcaps are commonplace. But 'stock' is usually best. An early 1970s 1600cc coupe is the practical choice, yet still very stylish.
VW BEETLE REVIEW
The original Volkswagen saloon or 'VW Beetle' was initially intended to be the pre-war German 'people's car', but went on to become an all-time world best seller and cult classic with over 21 million sold by the late seventies.
It built its reputation slowly, with character and dependability being strong selling points. Few cars inspire such fanatical devotion from their owners as the Beetle either. Only the Mini can match it for longevity in a shape still recognisable as the original. Anything but conservative, the Beetle turned being quite unlike anything else on the planet into a positive.
The automotive phenomenon of the 20th century, in its prime the Beetle sold to more people, in more countries, than any other car. During the 1960s and 1970s, production was more than a million a year, while the Beetle passed the longstanding record of the Ford Model T – 15,007,033 – in 1972. By June 1992, the Beetle had raised the world record for production of a single model to 21 million.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1192cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 40bhp@3900rpm
Torque 65lb ft@2400rpm
Top speed 72mph
0-60mph 30 seconds
Fuel consumption 32 mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Before you touch the car, cast an eye carefully over it. Do the doors shut properly? Do all the panels fit correctly? Door gaps should be an even 5mm all round. Uneven gaps could be due to botched pillar repairs or worn hinges. Ideally you want to see a nice clean curve on the wing beading – poor repairs show up in kinks and waviness. Open the door and squeeze the heater channel, in effect the inner sill. If there’s any give, then walk away – find a better car. The panel runs all the way from the rear arches to up alongside the front footwells and is almost impossible to repair properly in sections. You have to do the whole thing, and with so much attached to it, that’s a big job. Three days cutting and welding per side isn’t uncommon.
Roof gutter seams are also very important. If they are starting to come apart or bulge with corrosion, don’t get involved – you’ll never get it right again. It’s quite common, usually starting near the top of the screen pillars. At the back of the car, examine the body mounts. An easy way of telling if there is a problem is to look how close the tailpipes are to the valance cut-outs. There should be a good two fingers’ vertical clearance. If the body mounts collapse, they may even be touching the valance itself.
You might also discover rust in the engine bay, in the triangular plates between the engine and inner wings. Check the rear bumper mounts too, not just for rust either, as repair panels are often slightly out of shape. A clue to problems here is missing bumper iron rubber grommets – they won’t fit if there’s any misalignment, so often get left off. These little things give a feel for how well – or not – a car has been looked after.
Axles rust from the inside out and you’ll often find rot or repairs at the extremities. Don’t underestimate it – strength is rather important here. Try to find a rough road on the test drive and listen for rattles and clonks. In 1966 cars changed from linkpin to balljoint front suspension – uprating earlier cars is a possibility worth considering. On 1972-1974 MacPherson strut-equipped Beetle 1303s, steering boxes tend to wear badly and are costly to replace. UJs aren’t cheap either, so beware of any play in the system.
ENGINE
Beetle engines are well known for their distinctive sound, so a general clacking is perfectly normal. Check carefully for evidence of oil leaks. There will normally be a certain amount from the rocker cover gaskets, which are fairly simple to replace. Much more serious are any from the flywheel area when the engine is running, or around the front pulley. Look for oil having sprayed up on the underside of the engine lid, or for that area being suspiciously clean. Any of these leaks can spell a major rebuild. Due to the engine’s layout, oil naturally seeps into the combustion chambers, so a cloud of smoke on cold-start up isn’t unusual. Provided it clears when running, there’s no problem.
RUNNING GEAR
During a test drive, accelerate hard in second gear, then lift off. If it jumps out of gear the selector is knackered. Try the same thing in third. That aside, gearboxes are very strong and will usually last the life of the car. A rattling gearstick generally means just a broken bush in the linkage, which is a simple fix.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Prior to August 1967, all Beetles had a six-volt electrical system. Many will already have been converted to twelve-volts, as kit’s fairly easy to do and well worthwhile. All parts can be transferred over from later cars. Most of all though, ensure the loom hasn’t been mucked around with too much.
Early Beetles have body-coloured metal dashboards, while later Seventies cars and 1303s have plastic ones, that can crack badly. Check the heater controls either side of the handbrake work correctly. They should be neither too stiff or too slack – the former could mean they have been disconnected.
VERDICT
If it’s a daily driver you’re after, late models ride and drive better – that fact is inescapable. That said, earlier cars are widely regarded as being more attractive to look at. It all depends on your personal circumstances. The ultimate compromise has to be a 1967 model year (built from August 1966) 1500. This still enjoys the early body shape, complete with sloping front wings, but benefits greatly from the Type 3 engine and many other running gear improvements. If you’re looking to make a splash, top pose value has to come from a Karmann Cabriolet variant.
VW GOLF REVIEW
The Volkswagen Golf has become almost as iconic as the Beetle and T2. It’s a beloved and trusted companion to many a modern motorist, and since the MkV version it’s become the benchmark for all modern hatchbacks.
But the basis for its current success is, of course, the Mk1 and Mk2 Golf – but which version suits you?
Mk1.
Giorgetto Giugiaro’s sharply suited, minimalist-looking Golf appeared on the scene in 1974, with 1.1-litre and 1.5-litre engines on offer. A year later us Brits could get our hands on one, though only in five-door form. It made a good impact straight from the off, with Autocar praising its handling. The 1.5-litre car raced to 60mph in 12.5 seconds and could crack 100mph, which was impressive in 1975. Three years later the birth of the popular hatchback diesel – which came to dominate the car market in the Nineties and Noughties – came with the Golf.
However, the most well-loved of all Golf variants, the GTI, appeared at the 1975 Frankfurt Motor Show. It used a fuel-injected 1.6-litre engine sourced from the Audi 80 and produced 110bhp, more than twice that of normal Golfs. That meant electrifying performance – 0-60mph in nine seconds and a top whack ofa thoroughly pleasing 113mph. But it wasn’t just about the numbers – the GTI had stiffer dampers, shorter springs and a wider track. This all added up to a car that won plaudits for its immersive handling and revvy performance. It was more than a mere hatchback, a car for everyday transport. It could do that fine, but take the long way home via the back roads and the car came alive in your fingertips.
And when you weren’t hooning it you could take in the novel – but tasteful – interior. With its tartan seats and golf ball gearknob it was an intriguing place to be, and one that found much favour among motoring journalists of the time.
The first GTIs hit UK streets in 1979, but it wasn’t long until the entire Golf range was facelifted.
The 1980 facelift saw the 1.5-litre engine replaced by a 1.3 due to demand from other cars in the VW range. The Golf diesel grew in size to 1.6, based on the similarly sized petrol unit. 1980 also saw the GTI gain an extra cog, aided flexibility.
In 1982 a turbo-diesel engine joined the Golf ranks, which offered 96mph top speed, 0-60mph in just over 13 seconds and more than 42mpg. But if you’re not a lover of diesels, 1982 was all about the bigger-engined GTI. The extra 2bhp this garnered wasn’t exactly big news but the benefits in terms of driveability and economy were.
The original Golf Cabriolet was launched in 1979, and was available with the 1.5-litre 70bhp and 110bhp 1.6 engine. They were built by Karmann until 1993, growing increasingly extravagant bodykits along the way. They were profitable, popular and launched just a few years before the Mk2, so it was allowed to live on – it proved immensely popular, despite it being somewhat uncouth in comparison to newer, refined rivals towards the end.
The Mk1 Golf lived on beyond the Mk2 as the CitiGolf. It was still being built in South Africa until as recently a 2009.
A version to look out for is the French market-only 16S, which had 16 valves, 136bhp and the potential to hit 121mph. Entitled the Oettinger conversion, it’s very rare, with little more than 1200 built.
Mk2.
1983 saw the release of the second Golf, which was nearly 3cm longer, 6cm wider and 5cm taller. It was now a much more practical car, with room and space for similarly longer, wider and taller families. Engines ranged from the sluggish 1.0-litre through to the 1.8-litre from the previous car. Diesels were still available turbocharged and unturbocharged form. UK cars only became available in late 1984, and it was praised for its handling, ride and general refinement.
The GTI was launched in 1984. Compared to normal GTIs it had shorter and stiffer suspension and a much more flexible engine. It initially struggled to sell as it was deemed to be a bit vanilla, but some minor cosmetic tweaks and the option of five doors helped to stir enthusiasm. It wasn’t amazingly fast, though a 0-60mph time of just over eight seconds and a 112mph top speed aren’t to be sniffed at. Handling was deemed to be a little heavier, but it did weigh a fair bit more than the Mk1. The cost of refinement, perhaps?
In the face of growing turbocharger usage among the GTI’s peers, the firm needed to keep up in the horsepower wars. Thus a 16 valve version was released in 1986, with 139bhp and a 0-60mph dash of around seven-and-a-half seconds. It even managed to crack 120mph. To compensate, the suspension was dropped another 10mm and stiffened further, and the brakes were upgraded too. Power steering was now an option.
The Golf Syncro of 1988 brought four-wheel drive to the Golf. It was hardly the fastest Golf ever. However, a performance version soon appeared – the supercharged Rallye Golf G60 offered 160bhp from its 8-valve GTI-derived engine. Just 80 were made for the UK and all were left-hand drive. The extra weight of the four-wheel drive system meant 0-60mph was a hardly epoch-shifting eight seconds, but it’s more memorable for its slab-sided, brutalist bodykit. It would, however, be the most potent Golf to reach British shores.
Germany, however, would receive the G60 Limited in 1989. This handbuilt car combined the 1.8-litre 16v GTI engine with Syncro running gear and a supercharger. It also had natty blue piping around the grille, but the more striking news were the performance figures – 210bhp meant 140mph at the top end. Sadly, just 71 were built.
The G60 story would continue, however, with the GTI G60. This also didn’t come over to the UK for technical reasons, but it was capable of 134mph and an 8.3-second 0-60mph time. It had traction control and some countries got a four-wheel drive system with it.
The UK did, however, get the big bumper update in 1989, and later all Golfs got twin headlights.
Nowadays a Golf represents an excellent starter and everyday classic, while the GTIs have risen in price to coveted classic status. There’s a thriving ‘Dub’ scene with a rather questionable taste in suspension geometry and body adornments, so finding an original, unmolested car can be tricky. Finding and then driving one is immensely rewarding, especially in Mk1 GTI-spec.
It’s the car that made hatchbacks aspirational thanks to well-made Eighties advertising and solid residuals. But more than that, it’s a car that would easily fit in whether in Sloane Square or Red Square. Check one out today.
Golf GTI Mk1 Buying Guide
BODYWORK Mk1s were never galvanised from new, so key areas to examine include the bottom of the A-pillar below the front windscreen and under windscreen rubbers. Rust here is bad news, as it’s usually structural and very difficult to repair to a decent standard. Sunroof cars need checking extra carefully, as rust there is tricky to fix.
Wheelarches are another problem area, particularly on GTI models – they are often hiding rust beneath their plastic arch spats.
If rear arches are rusty then check if the crustiness has spread underneath the car, as it could affect the suspension mountings – another nasty job to rectify. Front arches are part of the wings and an easier fix however. The fuel filler pipe can also rot, so if the pipe itself is rusty, then walk away. When rust finds it way into the tank and on through the fuel lines then real problems occur, particularly on GTis, as the sensitive Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection system will be irrevocably damaged by any debris that finds it way inside.
ENGINE & GEARBOX Engines are generally tough, but most Mk1s will have done well over 100,000 miles now, so tired units are common. The engine block is rarely a problem, with the exception of the piston rings – any serious wear is most likely to be in the head itself. If there is a puff of smoke on start up, then the valve stem oil seals most
likely need replacing, smoke on the overrun is symptomatic of worn valve guides, while a plume of smoke under acceleration indicates worn piston rings. The camshaft belt needs replacing every 70,000 miles. Check the belt’s idler pulley at the same time, as worn idlers can seize.
Worn second gear synchromesh is a common weak point with gearboxes, revealing itself as a ‘crunch’ when changing up quickly from first to second, particularly when starting from cold. Sometimes first gear – plus fifth on five-speeders – can become difficult to engage. This is due to the alignment having shifted rather than the gearbox itself. A simple adjustment will often make a big difference. A sloppy gearshift can usually be revived with new bushes. Tired and worn engine mounts are common on these cars, so listen for any clunks when taking up drive.
Suspension & Brakes Mk1 brakes are notoriously unimpressive, but replacing the original solid discs with grooved items will help improve matters. The automatic adjusters on rear drums are close to useless and are best attended to by turning the mechanism via a wheel stud hole. Front suspension is adjustable for camber, so if the tyres are unevenly worn, then something could be amiss there. Tired dampers are best replaced with gas items, while new front strut top mounts are best sourced from VW themselves.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS Upholstery and trim can be tricky to get hold of, so buy the best car you can in that regard. Many interior parts are no longer available from Volkswagen, so if you’re looking at a car that has issues interior-wise then you must factor this into your thinking.
Golf GTI Mk2 Buying Guide
Although the world-beating Beetle was still a strong seller for Volkswagen in the early 1970s, the German giants knew that wouldn’t be the case forever. A fresh, completely new offering was required, and the Golf was just that. The Mk1 GTI was like nothing that had come before it – it benefitted from light weight and direct steering, combined with innovative suspension treatment (featuring MacPherson struts and offset coil springs) that resulted in masses of driving enjoyment. Introduced in 1984, the Mk2 GTI had one hell of an act to follow but turned out to be every bit as good to drive as its predecessor, better packaged, just as quick and with far more reassuring brakes. If you want practicality, performance and strength in one affordable package, few cars can deliver like the Mk2 GTI. It is also less prone to rust than its predecessor, while the choice of both 8V and 16V engines means there is a model to cater for just about every taste.
Mk2 Golf GTIs have been long renowned for their sharp handling and superb agility out on the road. The powerplant fitted will certainly have an impact on out-and-out performance however. The 16V GTI was long seen as the one to go for – and in terms of outright horsepower it’s certainly the market leader – but don’t discount the eight-valver out of hand; it has more low-down torque and as such will likely be easier to drive on a day-to-day basis. The 16-valve car, on the other hand, only fully unleashes its full 139bhp when you’re screaming at over 6000rpm. Of course, which one you go for depends on your personal driving style and what sort of driving characteristics you’re looking for from your Golf. Bear in mind, though, that being a simpler engine, the eight-valve GTI is inherently more reliable and is more than capable of covering at least 200,000 miles between re-builds; by comparison, the 16V will need a refresh after just 150,000 miles – although this is still hardly a shabby performance.
1 Mk2 GTI models came with a fuel-injected, 1781cc engine, in either 8V or 16V flavours. These engines are known for being generally tough, but most will have done well over 100,000 miles now, so tired units are not unusual, with all the attendant issues. The engine block is rarely a problem, with the exception of the piston rings – any serious wear is most likely to be in the head itself. If there is a puff of smoke on start up then the valve stem oil seals most likely need replacing, smoke on the overrun is symptomatic of worn valve guides, while a plume of smoke under acceleration indicates worn piston rings. On 8V cars, the oil pump needs replacing every 100,000 miles as a precaution. If it goes, the engine will be trashed. This doesn’t apply to the 16V version, as this has a much tougher pump.
2 The camshaft belt on both the 8-valve and 16-valve models needs replacing every 25,000 miles. Check the belt’s idler pulley at the same time, as worn idlers can seize and cause untold trouble. Here are two fuel pumps, both of which can give trouble. The lift pump inside the fuel tank is prone to failure, causing fuel starvation and subsequent rough running. Brimming the tank can mask the problem, so be suspicious if the fuel gauge shows a full tank on a test drive. The main fuel pump is just ahead of the offside rear wheel. It can be noisy even when working perfectly, so you needn’t worry unduly. Of more concern is a leaking 16V pump – the parts to fix it are expensive and the retaining bolts often seize up, making the replacement job long-winded, and therefore potentially expensive.
3 Gearboxes are generally strong, with the synchromesh on second gear being the most common weak point – this shows itself as a ‘crunch’ when changing up quickly from first to second, most prominent when the engine is cold. It’s not necessarily a cause for alarm however, as these units are capable of soldiering on for many miles without any other problems. Renewing the gearbox oil with fresh, high quality replacement fluid will help though.
4 Sometimes first and fifth gears can become difficult to engage, though this is due to the alignment having shifted rather than the gearbox itself; a simple adjustment will often make a difference. More than 4mm play in the gear lever can be revived with new bushes, or even a short-shift kit, which reduces the throw and comes with new bushes as a matter of course.
5 The GTI’s front suspension is adjustable for camber, so if the tyres are unevenly worn, then something could be amiss there. Tired dampers are best replaced with gas replacements, while new front strut top mounts are best sourced from Volkswagen itself – although you will pay handsomely for the privilege. If for any reason you need to remove the rear axle, then be extremely careful not to shear the captive studs, as they will take days to repair if damaged.
6 When checking a Mk2’s metalwork, the key areas to cast your eyes over include the bottom of the A-pillar below the front windscreen. Rust here is bad news, as it’s usually structural and very difficult to repair to a decent standard. Rust can hide under the windscreen rubber too. Cars fitted with a sunroof need checking carefully; rust here is very tricky to fix and best avoided if at all possible.
OUR VERDICT
The MK2 Golf GTI still makes a more than attractive proposition today. It will be more than capable of taking on daily driver duties and general domestic errands, but will still provide lashings of fun when the working day is done. Bag a good one, and you certainly won’t regret it. The trick is getting hold of one that hasn’t either rusted away completely, or been modified to within an inch of its life. If you can achieve this, then we’d urge you to go for it. The Volkswagen scene is one of the most all-embracing out there too, so whatever model you choose, be assured that there are like-minded people out there on the same wavelength as you.
VOLKSWAGEN SCIROCCO MK1
Volkswagen was determined that the Volkswagon Scirocco would be a success. Spurred on by the collapse in negotiations with Porsche over co-producing the 924, VW commissioned Karmann to assemble its first ever sports coupé.
The Scirocco was based on the floor plan, engine and suspension of the Golf, which it preceded by some months. Like the Golf, the Scirocco was styled by the famous Italian designer Giorgetto Giugiaro and VW had high hopes for its Karmann Ghia replacement. To ensure it would not be a mechanical replica of its hatchback sibling, VW extensively reworked the Scirocco’s underpinnings to guarantee it would be a very different car in both handling and ride. The hard work paid off and, after its launch in 1974, the world’s motoring press hailed the new Scirocco, praising its excellent handling and unique sporty feel.
At launch, buyers had the choice of two fourcylinder engines a 50bhp 1093cc engine and a 1471cc unit, which was available with either 70bhp or 85bhp. Front disc brakes came fitted as standard and all models had rack-and-pinion steering. All had single overhead camshafts and were water cooled. Standard models also featured a four-speed gearbox, but a fivespeeder was available as an option, along with other ‘extravagances’ such as air conditioning.
Production numbers were initially kept low as Volkswagon looked to test the reliability and underpinnings of the upcoming Golf, but there was no denying that the Wolfsburg-based company had a winner on its hands and production increased in the following years.
In 85bhp guise, the Scirocco was a decent performer, but it wasn’t until the emergence of the 110bhp unit with fuel injection that this German coupé began to realise its true potential. Capable of reaching 60mph in 8.8 seconds, and boasting a top speed of 115mph, the Scirocco became a top performer. Returning 30mpg, it was also cheap to run, and with the shadow of the oil crisis still looming large, this found favour with the car-buying public. Even six-cylinder rivals found it hard to compete, and soon the VW Scirocco was giving cars such as the BMW 3-series a run for their money.
From 1974 to 1981 the Mk1 Scirocco had a number of trim options, but the true king of the range was the Storm. Launched in the late 1970s as a UK-only model, the Storm gave the Scirocco full leather trim, a front body-coloured Zender spoiler with integrated airdams, and multi-spoke alloy wheels. The final Mk1 Scirocco Storm was produced in 1981 and it proved a fitting climax for the first generation of this fine car.
VW SCIROCCO MK2 REVIEW
The Mk2 Scirocco makes eminent sense as a bargain daily classic, offering both Teutonic reliability and spritely performance.
The Volkswagen Scirocco was launched in 1974, six months before the Golf. Karmann built the Giugiaro-penned coupé, though the underpinnings were almost pure Golf. A major overhaul in 1981 (1982 in the UK) saw the Scirocco grow a little larger, though it retained the Mk1 Golf underpinnings. The Mk2 had engines stretching from a 75bhp 1595cc carburettor unit through to a 129bhp 1781cc fuel-injected engine.
VITAL STATISTICS
Volkswagen Scirocco GTII 1.8i
Engine 1781cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power 95bhp@5800rpm
Torque 103lb ft@3000rpm
Top Speed 109mph
0-60mph 10.7sec
ECONOMY 32mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Corrosion is not such a menace on the Mk2 (unlike the Mk1). Check the fuel filler neck, as problems here could suggest problems elsewhere. If it’s badly corroded, rusty flakes and water can get into the fuel tank (which also rots) and cause fuel injection problems. Rot strikes in many places, but few are as important as the rear suspension mountings – visible from underneath. Rust also affects the floorpans and sills, and can cost thousands of pounds to eradicate. Check the wheelarches, door bottoms, around all fixed windows and the leading edge of the bonnet. In the engine bay, check around the suspension and engine mountings. Check under the bodykit trim, including the valances front and rear and the lower quarters at the back, where the bumper wraps around.
Engine & Gearbox
The engines are generally robust, but do watch out for blue exhaust smoke suggesting a rebuild is on the cards. When well serviced, 150,000 miles is not a problem. Pierburg carburettors with automatic chokes can be troublesome, so are often replaced with Weber carbs and manual choke kits. The Bosch fuel injection systems are generally OK, but won’t tolerate fuel contaminated by water or corrosion. Parts are generally plentiful as the engines were shared with so many other VAG cars. Gearboxes are tough, but snatchy synchromesh when cold can suggest wear – more so if gears still crunch when warm. Floppy gear linkage bushes can make a gearbox feel more tired than it is. Rebuild bush kits are cheap and plentiful.
Running Gear
The brakes use a remote servo, located on the passenger side. It’s sensible to change the fluid every two years. The suspension is simple but watch out for corroded coil springs, worn dampers and ill-advised ride height changes.Interior and electrics Finding the right seat material is tricky, so don’t turn a blind eye to a worn interior. Electrics are generally sound, while dim headlamps can be cured by fitting relays.
OUR VERDICT
The Scirocco is in theory better than the legendary Golf GTi on which is it based, but it somehow lacks that car’s following. The theory is nothing new – make a sporty coupé out of humble family car underpinnings – but the benefits remain. Great fun to drive but cheap and simple to run. You can have a laugh on the B-roads, but it’ll be robust enough to handle daily driving. Rarity is fast becoming a factor, which has already pushed up prices for the very best. Don’t miss out.
VOLKSWAGEN GOLF MKI CABRIOLET REVIEW
Classic four-seater drop-tops tend to come with big price tags, but there’s a none-too-obvious alternative that criminally underpriced. For now...
Nowadays, many small hatches are engineered from the outset to be built in convertible form. But it wasn’t always like that; instead, car makers used to commission a coachbuilder to engineer a drop-top variant, and usually to build it too. So it was with the Volkswagon Golf Mk1, which was developed and produced by Karmann, but sold through Volkswagen dealers.
The Golf convertible debuted at the 1979 Geneva motor show, in GL form only. There was a 70bhp 1.6-litre engine and four-speed manual gearbox; UK deliveries started in April 1980, with this model known as the GLi. By September 1981 there was a new entry-level model, the Golf GL, with a 1457cc engine – two years later the standard car got a 75bhp 1.6-litre engine and a five-speed gearbox, with a three-speed auto optional.
Things got interesting in January 1984, with the arrival of the GTi convertible, powered by a 112bhp 1.8-litre engine. Alloy wheels and a five-speed gearbox were standard fare. From September 1986 the Cabriolet replaced the GL, with standard alloy wheels and tinted glass plus a wider choice of interior and exterior colours.
By March 1987 the Cabriolet was dead, replaced by the Clipper Convertible with a 90bhp 1.8-litre engine. At the same time the GTi got wider wheelarches and a revised body kit.
Bearing in mind the Golf Mk1 hatch had been replaced by the Mk2 edition as far back as 1983, by the time the GTi convertible was upgraded to Sportline spec in April 1991, it was pretty ancient. This poshed-up convertible featured red or black paint, BBS alloy wheels and Recaro front seats. Alongside were the GTi Rivage and Rivage Leather, both with 112bhp 1.8-litre injected engines.
By January 1993 the writing was on the wall and the GTi Rivage was dropped, leaving the Rivage Leather to soldier on until that too was canned in July 1993. Six months later there was an all-new Golf convertible, based on the Mk3 as there was never a drop-top Golf Mk2.
VITAL STATISTICS
Golf GTi convertible
Engine 1781cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 112@5800
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 109@3500
Top speed 116mph
0-60mph 9.1sec
Consumption 38mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
Look for corrosion in the sills, wheelarches (check beneath any plastic protective mouldings as best you can), valances, inner wings (including the front suspension strut towers), door bottoms and in the various seams – particularly those for the rear panel and between the tail lights. Also check the boot lid, headlamp surrounds, seatbelt mountings, battery tray and the rear light clusters with their surrounds. Water gets into the boot and if left, the spare wheel well seams can rust through. Also common is rot at the base of the A-posts, leading to play in the doors; repairs here can be a nightmare.
Other common rot spots include the lower corners of the windscreen (very tricky to repair), the front crossmember and slam panel. Very problematic are rotten rear axle mounts. Also check the bulkhead, which tears where the clutch cable passes through; repairs are often bodged here. The steel fuel filler neck corrodes, along with the tank itself. Both are available, but replacing the latter means removing the rear axle. Hidden behind the off-side wing, the pipe gets covered with mud then corrodes unseen; the first you know of it is when fuel starts leaking. Rust particles then get into the fuel system, wreaking havoc.
Roof
The GTi got a power-operated roof from September 1989. By June 1990 an electric roof was optional on the Clipper, then all cars got one as standard from April 1991. The five-layer hood is a work of art, but it can wear and replacement is costly, so look for signs of holes or fraying, as well as damage to the frame. All parts are available, but some are costly and labour bills can soon add up if major repairs are needed. Replacing a hood costs £240 for the roof itself, plus fittings and labour. The window frames often rust too, so all-in expect to spend about £500-600 getting everything done.
Engine
Just one engine was fitted to the Golf convertible, in 1588cc and 1781cc forms. A top-end rebuild will be needed after 100,000 miles; it’s cheap and straightforward. It has been known for a 1.8 GTi to have a 1.6-litre engine fitted; the water take-off is the give away. On a 1.6 it’s above the alternator, while on the 1.8 it’s closer to the nearside of the engine bay. Whatever is fitted there’ll be a cam belt that needs to be replaced every four years or 25,000 miles. It’s a two-hour DIY job, with a complete kit just £20 or so.
Transmission
Gearboxes are tough, but second-gear synchro wears out eventually; rebuilt gearboxes are £600. Well before this is due you can expect a vague gear change caused by a worn linkage; repairs are fiddly and the only proper repair involves replacing it completely. The parts are just a tenner, but it takes ages to fit them, as access is poor.
Steering
The rack-and-pinion steering is reliable as there was no power assistance option. On high-mileage cars the CV joints may be worn, but a full kit costs just £40 per side, with repairs straightforward. The brakes are OK, but lack feel because of the conversion to right-hand drive; the linkage isn’t very direct. There are plenty of upgrades available, from harder pads and bigger callipers to bigger, cross-drilled discs.
Trim
The standard cloth trim is hard-wearing, but it can get damaged; Newton Commercial offers most things on a repro basis. The electrics are a weak spot, as the fuse box, under the dashboard on the nearside, gets wet when the windscreen leaks. From late 1982 blade fuses replaced the earlier bullet type; these later electrics are more reliable, but still problematic. Check that the rear demister (all convertibles got a glass rear window, but not necessarily heated), heater fan and wipers all work. The same goes for the GTi’s trip computer, parts for which are now scarce. Slow wipers are another common issue; greasing the wiper spindles can help, or swapping the motor for a Golf Mk2 item.
OUR VERDICT
The Golf convertible is a world away from the rear-wheel drive roadsters that dominate the classic car scene, and it’s all the more interesting for it. Values are relatively low but there are some excellent examples available, and with modern levels of usability the Golf convertible still makes great everyday transport.
VOLKSWAGEN POLO MK1 REVIEW
As the Polo nears its 40th birthday, we get under the skin of one of the first...
One of the things that delight most about the original Polo is its sheer simplicity. Take the cabin for example – devoid of frippery, it provides the driver with only the minimum of switches and instrumentation and is all the better for it. It’s the same story on the road, as the Polo goes about its business in a thoroughly straightforward manner.
There isn’t enough power to provide any excitement, but what there is is delivered to the road without fuss, contributing to an easy-going nature. Light and accurate steering is a boon around town, while low kerb weight ensures agile handling. The brakes aren’t its best feature but there’s nothing wrong with their arrangement and they provide ample stopping power for the performance on offer.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1093cc/4-cyl/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 50bhp@5900rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 53lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 88mph
0-60mph 15.4sec
Consumption 34mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Despite what some people might have you believe, VWs from this era do suffer from corrosion. Terminal rust
has seen-off many of these cars, so a thorough inspection for signs of filler or previous bodges is a must. Key places to check are the sills, wheelarches, front and rear valances, the bottom of the doors, the leading edge of the bonnet, and the bottom of the tailgate.
The front wings are a weak spot on the Polo, especially around the headlamps, along the top edge and where they meet the sill. New parts aren’t available so if you find decent secondhand replacements for sale, it is worth grabbing them. Another risk area is around the front and rear screens so examine the rubbers carefully for signs of bubbling underneath, while models fitted with
a sunroof can see corrosion developing around the opening – it’s a tricky area to repair properly.
Lastly, it’s worth checking that exterior trim and fittings are intact as tracking down replacements for these aren’t easy either.
If you find rot in any of the panels, then it’s advisable to get a good look underneath. The floorpan and spare wheel well can get a bit frilly so make sure that the underseal isn’t hiding anything nasty – lift the carpets if you can. And a look at the suspension mounting points is wise too, particularly those for the rear torsion beam.
ENGINE
The overhead cam engines were available in 895cc and 1093cc forms, and while neither were overburdened with power they were considered tough when new. Those that have survived will likely have been rebuilt by now, but the good news is that regular servicing is pretty much all that’s needed. It’s worth checking for any oil or coolant leaks and for evidence that the timing belt has been changed with some regularity – it’s not a difficult job and parts are cheap, so it’s not a major problem. Worn carburettors are often the cause of poor running – a rebuild or fitting of an aftermarket replacement is straightforward – while models fitted with an automatic choke may have been converted to a manual set-up.
RUNNING GEAR
There’s little to worry about with the transmission – the road test will reveal any whines, or crunches caused by worn synchromesh. Listen out for clicking CV joints though. Steering, brakes, or suspension are unlikely to cause trouble either if they’ve seen regular maintenance. Lack of use causes the most problems, so you’ll need to budget for an overhaul if the car has been standing for a lengthy period. Service items are easy to source and cheap though, while the straightforward layout makes the Polo a good DIY proposition.
INTERIOR
Inside, equipment levels were pretty basic by modern standards, the brochures boasting of luxuries such as a heated rear window, padded sun visors and reclining front seats! Lavishly equipped
it certainly isn’t, but it is civilised in a low-key, understated way.
The wood-effect dashboard trim fitted to most models isn’t everyone’s cup of tea though. While there’s little to go wrong, the main problem is going to be finding one that isn’t too tatty. Seats were a mixture of cloth and vinyl and while a professional re-trimmer can sort any rips or tears, it’s best to avoid examples with damage to the dashboard or door cards. Ultimately getting a rust-free example is the most important thing, but the cost of restoring a tired interior will soon add-up. Sourcing trim parts could be a problem too.
OUR VERDICT
If you want a taste of classic motoring but on a budget, the Polo is almost perfect. Simple mechanicals and a healthy dose of practicality make the little VW an excellent daily driver, and you’re unlikely to find yourself parked next to another one. You’ll need to avoid the rusty and decrepit examples, but a good one is a fine classic runabout.
VOLKSWAGEN TYPE 2 CAMPER REVIEW
VW’s ‘bay window’ camper is a cult classic. We explain what to look out for
The Volkswagen Type 1 was the Beetle saloon, and the Type 2 was the light-commercial derivative. Introduced in 1950 and available in many different forms, it was almost completely re-engineered in 1967 to become the ‘bay window’ – a reference to its big one-piece windscreen.
‘Bay windows’ were available in pick-up, crew cab, panel van, Kombi (a van with windows) and Microbus (with seats) formats. VW didn’t build them as campers, but they were adapted for the job by a variety of converters. The German Westfalia typically features a pop-top roof, cooking facilities, some very clever storage and a ‘rock ’n’ roll’ bench seat that converts into a bed. Other converters who produced Type 2-based campers included British specialists Devon and Danbury.
So popular are these conversions that Danbury,
in particular, continued to make them long after the T2 went out of production in Germany in 1979. In fact, it’s still possible to buy a new one today: the Type 2 remained in production in Brazil until December 2013, latterly with a water-cooled VW Polo engine, and a few are still waiting to be converted into campers.
Between 1967 and 1972, the 1584cc Beetle engine was standard, but from 1972 power gradually increased with the new Type 4 engine. This came initially as a twin-carb 1700cc, an 1800cc (from 1973) or a 2.0-litre (1970cc) from 1978.
A large number of detail changes occurred in the early 1970s and it would take pages to list them all.Until 1972, the front indicators were set low on the nose, but were then re-sited higher up either side of the front grille. The front bumpers changed at the same time with squarer ‘grooved’ versions replacing the former wraparound arrangement. The rear end layout was also redeveloped to reflect the use of bigger engines, including enlarged air inlets. Taller, larger tail lights are another feature of the ‘late bay’.
Bear in mind, though, that purists rate pre-1972 models more highly than later models, and this preference is reflected in higher prices.
VITAL STATISTICS
Volkswagen Type 2 Camper
Engine 1679cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 66bhp@4800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 85lb ft@3400rpm
Top speed 68mph
0-60mph 24.0sec
Consumption 22mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Check you’re looking at the real thing. The first three digits of the chassis number give the clues. First is a 2
(Type 2), the second shows the model (2 means Microbus, 3 is Kombi, 4 is a De Luxe Microbus). A 1 means you’re looking at a converted panel van. The third digit shows the year (8 for 1968 and so on). If the camper has been created by one of the known conversion companies, that’s great. If it’s a DIY job, inspect the quality of the conversion very carefully.
The panels behind the bumpers often rust out because they are hard to clean and get neglected. Look at the bottoms of all the opening panels
– specifically the doors, tailgate, engine lid – and bear in mind that not all T2 doors are the same. The front panel rots just under the windscreen; if the spare wheel is mounted on the front panel, check behind it. Vans that have been stored outside for years often have holes in the guttering where it has rotted through – these are difficult and expensive to repair.
Rust is the killer of these VWs. Repair panels are available for most common problem areas, but you’ll need to factor in the cost of professional welding. Underneath, check the chassis rails, sills, outriggers (which run on top of the chassis rails across the full width of the vehicle) and jacking points. Beware black-painted sills – they usually mean bodgery! Check the floor, especially where it touches the front and side panels, in the area behind the front seats and in the cab. Look at the wheelarches; at the front, open the cab doors to check the area around seat belt mountings, and, at the rear, take a look from inside the body as well as outside.
ENGINE
Engine upgrades are commonplace, mainly because the early ‘bay window’ is desperately slow with its standard 50bhp 1600cc engine. Only you can judge the quality of such a conversion. Another favourite upgrade is lowered suspension. This is done partly for looks and partly to reduce the T2’s formidable cornering roll. Remember that it’s a conversion, and that DIY quality standards can sometimes be dodgy.
All engines on German-built ‘bay windows’ are air-cooled. On early engines, rock the crankshaft pulley back and forth. A bit of end-float is normal, but excessive movement probably means worn bearings. On these engines and the Type 4 (with concealed alternator and lower-mounted fan), look for oil leaks. Oil over the sides of the engine means it needs new seals; if oil is dripping from the rear main crankshaft seal, the engine needs to come out before you can fit a new seal.
RUNNING GEAR
On the road, don’t expect crisp handling, but do beware of imprecise steering: the steering-box is prone to wear and fitting even a reconditioned one is expensive. Steering is heavy at low speeds. Gear selection – of reverse, in particular – was always imprecise because of the long linkage, but good aftermarket short-shift conversions tighten it up significantly. On the standard type, replacing the selector bush can sometimes make a difference. High noise levels came as standard, so don’t imagine that somebody has removed the sound insulation and then forgotten to put it back!
INTERIOR
As built by VW, the Microbus (also available in De Luxe trim) came with seven or nine seats, some facing backwards. As modified by DIY-ers and professionals alike, the rear interior can come in many guises. As a general guide, check the state
of the headlining, which is expensive to replace, and go carefully over the elevating roof, if fitted, because its seals can leak (so rotting out the floor), as can the fabric if it gets damaged. The electrics need careful examination if they’ve been modified in any way from VW’s original installation.
OUR VERDICT
Some owners buy T2s for their iconic style, others still view them as wholly viable family campers. If you’re going for a stylish classic, it’s best to avoid the higher prices asked for well-preserved top-class conversions. Whichever you choose, the light-commercial origins are always in evidence – so be sure to try before you buy.
VOLKSWAGEN POLO G40 REVIEW
Brimming with poke and power, the G40 proved that Volkswagen's diminuitive Polo could fight it out with the hot-hatch greats...
The Polo had long been established as a sensible, reliable and well-made supermini before the G40 was introduced in 1991. The Polo range had received a facelift in 1990 – bringing its looks bang up to date. The G40 took this further, with BBS alloys and a wider body. It looked how hot hatches wanted to look in the 1990s – it was the aspirational Polo, a car people lusted after - and deservedly so. 116bhp powering a three-door body weighing just 830kg was always going to be fun, and the whine from the supercharger is as delightful as it is addictive. The sharp handling cemented its status is hot hatch royalty.
In the late 2000s, when the car was at its lowest price, many were modified and even some were scrapped. Now, an appreciating car, it’s the time to buy the little supercharged bundle of madness and use it how it was intended.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1272cc/4-cyl/SOHC
POWER 116bhp@6000rpm
TORQUE 111lb ft@3800rpm
MAXIMUM SPEED 121mph
0-60MPH 9.0sec
ECONOMY 31-35mpg
TRANSMISSION FWD, five-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Super duper charger
A rebuild of the supercharger is recommended every 30-40,000 miles, which costs between £200- 400, worth baring in mind when buying one. Failed bearings are the biggest issue, worn oil seals will leave a lot of oil in the boost hoses (particularly the boost return, which comes out of the top of the throttle body), worn apex seals cause a slight loss of boost but can eventually come out of their grooves and cause a mess.
Supercharger whine
As rebuilds are a common affair, it's not unusual for the supercharger to be ported for better airflow while it's apart. None of that is problematic, but be wary if the pulley is smaller than 65mm. The supercharger tensions the alternator/charger belt, and it takes a lot of tension to avoid belt slip on a small pulley.
Only fuels and hoses
If the supercharger has been modified, fuel lines need changing accordingly. If it’s recently had a new line fitted, that’s good. If not, then renew it just to be safe – get the injectors checked. Some modified cars require super unleaded fuel – ask the previous owners about this.
Rust – where to look
Rust affects Polos in different ways. Earlier models are more prone to it, with pre-‘94 cars especially bad. They often suffer from rotten battery trays; so don't be surprised if it's had a repair. There's a seam along both sills, which is frequently damaged by careless trolley jacking, so check that. Otherwise, the windscreen frame, bottoms of the wings and the panel behind the filler neck are susceptible too.
Gearbox vulnerability
G40 gearboxes are weak and most would have had a replacement at some point. There are plenty of cars with the five-speed gearbox from a 1.3 SPI Polo, which has similar ratios. The gearbox code is on the top of the bell housing, on the flat bit of metal next to the plastic bung for the clutch inspection hole. Originality isn’t everything with these cars, but the original ATV gearbox is more desirable – good ‘boxes start from £250.
Has it got the right bits?
The grille (G40) and tailgate (Polo_G40) badges are obsolete and trade for a lot of money, and there's a good market for the black Volkswagen roundels too. View it as desirable if they're all present and correct. The same is true for the gutter trims on each side of the roof. They're obsolete, and get brittle with age so are near impossible to remove neatly from a scrap car. The black roof lining is a nightmare to remove and replace, too, so check that's in good condition. The G40 is the only Polo to have a 160mph speedometer. If you're looking at a car with a 120mph speedometer, then it's worth questioning why.
Air filter nightmares
Foam air filters are a definite no-no on a G40. The foam can lose small pieces, which cause all sorts of damage to the supercharger. Cotton air filters are fine (drop-in, or bolt-on) and are quite common.
Accident damage
Check for twists as a sign of an accident on the chassis legs and look at the area directly under the expansion tank to see if it's cracked. Although this is more common on heavily modified cars, it has been known for standard ones to crack the chassis leg too.
OUR VERDICT
The Volkswagen Polo was a luxury good, an item of want rather than that of necessity. It’s possible the buying public of 1991 wasn’t ready for a supercharged Polo – VW only sold 616 in its first four years in the UK. It’s that rarity, teamed with the overall driving experience that makes it so alluring in 2015. Hot hatches are like fine wines – they get better with age. If you find a G40 that’s been well looked after, has had minor modifications made to it and it’s priced keenly, you’ll be on your way to owning a brilliant, rare and usable every day classic.
VOLKSWAGEN GOLF MK1 REVIEW
Introduced in 1974, the MK1's Golf combined sharp and refreshingly modern styling with peppy water-cooled engines. The range benefited from light weight and direct steering, combined with innovative suspension, resulting in masses of driving enjoyment regardless of the engine size. Buyers fell over themselves to get their hands on the newcomer, with over 2,000,000 Golfs finding homes in the first four years of production alone. In 1978 VW finally killed off Beetle production in Germany, safe in the knowledge that it had a winning replacement on its hands.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1588cc/4-cyl/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 110bhp@6100rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 103lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 110mph
0-60mph 9sec
Consumption 27mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Mk1’s were never galvanised from new, so key areas to examine include the bottom of the A-pillar below the front windscreen and under windscreen rubbers. Rust here is bad news, as it’s usually structural and very difficult to repair to a decent standard. Sunroof cars need checking extra carefully, as rust there is tricky to fix.
Wheelarches are another problem area, particularly on GTI models – they are often hiding rust beneath their plastic arch spats.
If rear arches are rusty then check if the crustiness has spread underneath the car, as it could affect the suspension mountings – another nasty job to rectify. Front arches are part of the wings and an easier fix however. The fuel filler pipe can also rot, so if the pipe itself is rusty, then walk away. When rust finds it way into the tank and on through the fuel lines then real problems occur, particularly on GTis, as the sensitive Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection system will be irrevocably damaged by any debris that finds it way inside.
ENGINE
Engines are generally tough, but most Mk1s will have done well over 100,000 miles now, so tired units are common. The engine block is rarely a problem, with the exception of the piston rings – any serious wear is most likely to be in the head itself. If there is a puff of smoke on start up, then the valve stem oil seals most
likely need replacing, smoke on the overrun is symptomatic of worn valve guides, while a plume of smoke under acceleration indicates worn piston rings. The camshaft belt needs replacing every 70,000 miles. Check the belt’s idler pulley at the same time, as worn idlers can seize.
Worn second gear synchromesh is a common weak point with gearboxes, revealing itself as a ‘crunch’ when changing up quickly from first to second, particularly when starting from cold. Sometimes first gear – plus fifth on five-speeders – can become difficult to engage. This is due to the alignment having shifted rather than the gearbox itself. A simple adjustment will often make a big difference. A sloppy gearshift can usually be revived with new bushes. Tired and worn engine mounts are common on these cars, so listen for any clunks when taking up drive.
RUNNING GEAR
Mk1's brakes are notoriously unimpressive, but replacing the original solid discs with grooved items will help improve matters. The automatic adjusters on rear drums are close to useless and are best attended to by turning the mechanism via a wheel stud hole. Front suspension is adjustable for camber, so if the tyres are unevenly worn, then something could be amiss there. Tired dampers are best replaced with gas items, while new front strut top mounts are best sourced from VW themselves.
NTERIOR
Upholstery and trim can be tricky to get hold of, so buy the best car you can in that regard. Many interior parts are no longer available from Volkswagen, so if you’re looking at a car that has issues interior-wise then you must factor this into your thinking.
OUR VERDICT
If you’re after a stylish, sharp-suited little runabout to potentially use all year round, then look no further. Whatever model you go for, it will be more than capable of taking on daily driver duties and general domestic errands, but still provide lashings of fun when the working day is done – particularly the ubiquitous GTI models. The trick is getting hold of one that hasn’t rusted away completely.