VOLKSWAGEN POLO MK1 REVIEW

As the Polo nears its 40th birthday, we get under the skin of one of the first...

One of the things that delight most about the original Polo is its sheer simplicity. Take the cabin for example – devoid of frippery, it provides the driver with only the minimum of switches and instrumentation and is all the better for it. It’s the same story on the road, as the Polo goes about its business in a thoroughly straightforward manner. 

There isn’t enough power to provide any excitement, but what there is is delivered to the road without fuss, contributing to an easy-going nature. Light and accurate steering is a boon around town, while low kerb weight ensures agile handling. The brakes aren’t its best feature but there’s nothing wrong with their arrangement and they provide ample stopping power for the performance on offer.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1093cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  50bhp@5900rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 53lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                88mph

0-60mph                                  15.4sec

Consumption                            34mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Despite what some people might have you believe, VWs from this era do suffer from corrosion. Terminal rust 

has seen-off many of these cars, so a thorough inspection for signs of filler or previous bodges is a must. Key places to check are the sills, wheelarches, front and rear valances, the bottom of the doors, the leading edge of the bonnet, and the bottom of the tailgate. 

The front wings are a weak spot on the Polo, especially around the headlamps, along the top edge and where they meet the sill. New parts aren’t available so if you find decent secondhand replacements for sale, it is worth grabbing them. Another risk area is around the front and rear screens so examine the rubbers carefully for signs of bubbling underneath, while models fitted with
a sunroof can see corrosion developing around the opening – it’s a tricky area to repair properly. 

Lastly, it’s worth checking that exterior trim and fittings are intact as tracking down replacements for these aren’t easy either. 

If you find rot in any of the panels, then it’s advisable to get a good look underneath. The floorpan and spare wheel well can get a bit frilly so make sure that the underseal isn’t hiding anything nasty – lift the carpets if you can. And a look at the suspension mounting points is wise too, particularly those for the rear torsion beam.

ENGINE

The overhead cam engines were available in 895cc and 1093cc forms, and while neither were overburdened with power they were considered tough when new. Those that have survived will likely have been rebuilt by now, but the good news is that regular servicing is pretty much all that’s needed. It’s worth checking for any oil or coolant leaks and for evidence that the timing belt has been changed with some regularity – it’s not a difficult job and parts are cheap, so it’s not a major problem. Worn carburettors are often the cause of poor running – a rebuild or fitting of an aftermarket replacement is straightforward – while models fitted with an automatic choke may have been converted to a manual set-up. 

RUNNING GEAR

There’s little to worry about with the transmission – the road test will reveal any whines, or crunches caused by worn synchromesh. Listen out for clicking CV joints though. Steering, brakes, or suspension are unlikely to cause trouble either if they’ve seen regular maintenance. Lack of use causes the most problems, so you’ll need to budget for an overhaul if the car has been standing for a lengthy period. Service items are easy to source and cheap though, while the straightforward layout makes the Polo a good DIY proposition.

INTERIOR

Inside, equipment levels were pretty basic by modern standards, the brochures boasting of luxuries such as a heated rear window, padded sun visors and reclining front seats! Lavishly equipped 

it certainly isn’t, but it is civilised in a low-key, understated way. 

The wood-effect dashboard trim fitted to most models isn’t everyone’s cup of tea though. While there’s little to go wrong, the main problem is going to be finding one that isn’t too tatty. Seats were a mixture of cloth and vinyl and while a professional re-trimmer can sort any rips or tears, it’s best to avoid examples with damage to the dashboard or door cards. Ultimately getting a rust-free example is the most important thing, but the cost of restoring a tired interior will soon add-up. Sourcing trim parts could be a problem too. 

OUR VERDICT

If you want a taste of classic motoring but on a budget, the Polo is almost perfect. Simple mechanicals and a healthy dose of practicality make the little VW an excellent daily driver, and you’re unlikely to find yourself parked next to another one. You’ll need to avoid the rusty and decrepit examples, but a good one is a fine classic runabout.

VOLKSWAGEN POLO G40 REVIEW

Brimming with poke and power, the G40 proved that Volkswagen's diminuitive Polo could fight it out with the hot-hatch greats...

The Polo had long been established as a sensible, reliable and well-made supermini before the G40 was introduced in 1991. The Polo range had received a facelift in 1990 – bringing its looks bang up to date. The G40 took this further, with BBS alloys and a wider body. It looked how hot hatches wanted to look in the 1990s – it was the aspirational Polo, a car people lusted after - and deservedly so. 116bhp powering a three-door body weighing just 830kg was always going to be fun, and the whine from the supercharger is as delightful as it is addictive. The sharp handling cemented its status is hot hatch royalty.

In the late 2000s, when the car was at its lowest price, many were modified and even some were scrapped. Now, an appreciating car, it’s the time to buy the little supercharged bundle of madness and use it how it was intended.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                      1272cc/4-cyl/SOHC

POWER                       116bhp@6000rpm

TORQUE                     111lb ft@3800rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED     121mph

0-60MPH                    9.0sec

ECONOMY                  31-35mpg

TRANSMISSION         FWD, five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Super duper charger

A rebuild of the supercharger is recommended every 30-40,000 miles, which costs between £200- 400, worth baring in mind when buying one. Failed bearings are the biggest issue, worn oil seals will leave a lot of oil in the boost hoses (particularly the boost return, which comes out of the top of the throttle body), worn apex seals cause a slight loss of boost but can eventually come out of their grooves and cause a mess.

Supercharger whine

As rebuilds are a common affair, it's not unusual for the supercharger to be ported for better airflow while it's apart. None of that is problematic, but be wary if the pulley is smaller than 65mm. The supercharger tensions the alternator/charger belt, and it takes a lot of tension to avoid belt slip on a small pulley.

Only fuels and hoses

If the supercharger has been modified, fuel lines need changing accordingly. If it’s recently had a new line fitted, that’s good. If not, then renew it just to be safe – get the injectors checked. Some modified cars require super unleaded fuel – ask the previous owners about this.

Rust – where to look

Rust affects Polos in different ways. Earlier models are more prone to it, with pre-‘94 cars especially bad.  They often suffer from rotten battery trays; so don't be surprised if it's had a repair. There's a seam along both sills, which is frequently damaged by careless trolley jacking, so check that. Otherwise, the windscreen frame, bottoms of the wings and the panel behind the filler neck are susceptible too.

Gearbox vulnerability

G40 gearboxes are weak and most would have had a replacement at some point. There are plenty of cars with the five-speed gearbox from a 1.3 SPI Polo, which has similar ratios. The gearbox code is on the top of the bell housing, on the flat bit of metal next to the plastic bung for the clutch inspection hole. Originality isn’t everything with these cars, but the original ATV gearbox is more desirable – good ‘boxes start from £250.

Has it got the right bits?

The grille (G40) and tailgate (Polo_G40) badges are obsolete and trade for a lot of money, and there's a good market for the black Volkswagen roundels too. View it as desirable if they're all present and correct. The same is true for the gutter trims on each side of the roof. They're obsolete, and get brittle with age so are near impossible to remove neatly from a scrap car. The black roof lining is a nightmare to remove and replace, too, so check that's in good condition. The G40 is the only Polo to have a 160mph speedometer. If you're looking at a car with a 120mph speedometer, then it's worth questioning why.

Air filter nightmares

Foam air filters are a definite no-no on a G40. The foam can lose small pieces, which cause all sorts of damage to the supercharger. Cotton air filters are fine (drop-in, or bolt-on) and are quite common.

Accident damage

Check for twists as a sign of an accident on the chassis legs and look at the area directly under the expansion tank to see if it's cracked. Although this is more common on heavily modified cars, it has been known for standard ones to crack the chassis leg too.

OUR VERDICT

The Volkswagen Polo was a luxury good, an item of want rather than that of necessity. It’s possible the buying public of 1991 wasn’t ready for a supercharged Polo – VW only sold 616 in its first four years in the UK. It’s that rarity, teamed with the overall driving experience that makes it so alluring in 2015. Hot hatches are like fine wines – they get better with age. If you find a G40 that’s been well looked after, has had minor modifications made to it and it’s priced keenly, you’ll be on your way to owning a brilliant, rare and usable every day classic.

Volkswagen Polo