Values for good 996 Turbos have been hovering around the £40-50k mark for a while, which still represents a significant saving over a 993 Turbo. With this one wearing just the right amount of miles, we thought it was well worth checking out.
PORSCHE 356 REVIEW
It's difficult to understate the significance of a car as evocative as the 356. Designed by Ferry Porsche himself when father Professor Ferdinand was in prison after the Second World War, it lit the touchpaper on one of the most successful dynasties in motoring and motor racing. But what makes the 356 appeal now? It's the combination of history, fun and low-maintenance motoring. The formula was simple: it was to be a sports coupe based loosely on a design for Volkswagen, which was first produced in Wolfsburg in 1939 and went on to be known as one of the most distinctive cars on the planet - the Beetle.
The 356's basic composition remained steadfast throughout production. Buyers got an air-cooled, petrol-fired engine with four horizontally opposed cylinders mounted down behind the rear axle. That means an inherent low centre of gravity, and therefore engaging handling.
There were a number of engines available, ranging from the earliest 1.1-litre cars to the rare and incredibly desirable 2.0-litre, four-cam models. The 356 also spawned a variety of extremely high-level motor sport projects, culminating in successful campaigns at Le Mans, the Mille Miglia and the Monte Carlo Rally - to name but a few. The innovative front suspension layout was borrowed from the Silver Arrow Auto Union grand prix cars Ferdinand Porsche had worked on before starting his own firm.
It wasn't without its trials, though. Thanks to swing axles at the back, roadgoing 356s had a tendency to lift at the rear during harder cornering, snapping quickly and often irretrievably into oversteer as the changes in camber angles of the rear wheels caused loss of grip.
This gave rise to a new driving technique called 'wishening', which involved competition drivers sawing at the wheel of their 356, coaxing it into oversteer with each turn of the wheel and winding it off once the skid began before doing it all over again. It was the only way to retain momentum as the back of the car pitched up and down through the bend - it's certainly a spectacle. Happily, the car's appeal was cemented by the support of well-known owners including Steve McQueen, Sean Connery and French President Georges Pompidou.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine four-cylinder horizontally opposed, air-cooled petrol - 1.1-litre, 1.3-litre, 1.5-litre and 1.6-litre pushrod; 1.5, 1.6 and 2.0-litre 4-cam Carrera engines
Power 40bhp to 130bhp, 47lb ft to 119lb ft
Top speed 126mph
0-60mph 8.8-19sec
Gearbox Volkswagen four-speed non- or semi-synchronised manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODY AND CHASSIS
It's important you carefully check the corrosion-prone areas of the car. Marque expert Andy Prill explains. 'The 356 has a steel monocoque and all the models will rust if not properly protected or looked after. The battery floor and main floors are the most commonly affected areas, followed by the sills and doors. Good underseal is essential and rubber seals are also important, otherwise cars will rust from inside to out.'
Most have seen some sort of restoration, but to find a good one you'll need an eye for the finer points. 'The devil is in the detail - not just in terms of the obvious but in the way that the metalwork is finished and the restoration methods used,' advises Andy.
Prill reports that most body panels are readily available. 'A few aren't, but can be made easily enough. A Danish firm called Simonsen supplies Porsche.'
The Simonsen panels can be bought through Karmann Konnection. Sales manager Andy Rickard says, 'A floorpan is £198 per half (front or rear). A full nose cone is £1750; doors are £1500 each. A new hood will cost £550 for Speedster, Roadset and Cabriolet models.'
ENGINE AND DRIVETRAIN
Assuming a conscientious maintenance regime, owners can expect few issues.
'Porsche's byword was reliability and it didn't like warranty claims, so only the best designs and materials were used,' says Prill. 'Of the pushrod engines it tends to be the lower-power units that are the most reliable. Porsche made a few mistakes along the way - the thermostatic oil valve of 1957 being a case in point. In a strange way it's the engine's reliability that ends up going full circle and becomes a negative because they will run to the point of destruction and then it's too late.'
Oil leaks are common and usually simple fixes - some engines will require a rebuild but many can be fixed by a set of gaskets, which usually costs around £180-£250.
'The four-cam engines are much more complex but will give very reliable service if maintained properly,' says Prill.
Andy suggests engines generally need a rebuild at intervals between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, and this can cost £6k-8k if all of the main parts - such as the cranksharft - can be re-used.
'The Carrera [quad-cam] engine is different - rebuilds can cost from £15k to £20k for an inspection rebuild, £60k to £100k if major parts are required.'
Porsche engineered its gearboxes so well they can regularly see more than 250,000 miles without a rebuild.
BRAKES AND SUSPENSION
Luckily, there's generally a wide range of braking and suspension system spares on offer for 356 owners.
'Parts supply is excellent and around 95 per cent of brake and suspension components are readily available from a variety of specialist parts suppliers,' says Prill. But if you had to replace everything including the brake drums the parts alone would be around £4500 for a drum-brake car and £3000 for a disc-braked version. Labour would be between £4000 to £6000.'
Andy wouldn't advise playing with the geometry too much. 'The factory settings work well. You can lower the ride height but it's not advisable to go too low because this will cause premature wear of the axles and fulcrum plates in the differential. The 356s are sensitive to tyre size; the largest I suggest is a 175x15 because going larger destroys the handling characteristics.'
OUR VERDICT
First decide which 356 you want to buy - and there's no shortage of options. A clean, restored and ready-to-drive car may cost more to buy but needs little outlay to run.
A tatty non-restored car, however, is likely to cost far more to get up to scratch before you can enjoy it.
When you've found a car, Andy strongly suggests having a pre-purchase inspection service carried out by a 356 expert.
'Because 356 prices have been increasing I'm seeing a lot of mutton dressed as lamb. However, the Porsche Club Great Britain will provide you with help and advice.'
Porsche's Kardex records contain vital information about how the car left the factory. It's useful for seeing which colour it was painted, the engine number and so on.
PORSCHE 356B T5 REVIEW
The 1948 Porsche 356 employed a platform chassis with rear-mounted air-cooled engine and torsion bar all-independent suspension. 1955 marked the arrival of the 356A, readily distinguishable by its now curved one-piece screen, a wider range of engines and 15'' instead of 16'' wheels. Announced at the 1959 Frankfurt Motor Show, the Porsche 356B T5 enhanced Porsche's reputation as builders of the finest small capacity sports cars, continuing the huge commercial success of its predecessors. Handling, ride and refinement were improved, as well as the addition of a more powerful 90bhp 1600cc engine to the range, a higher nose, more vertical headlamp lenses and raised front winglets - all of which upped the original cars' appeal and firmly established it as by far the best car in its class.
CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - PORSCHE 911 930 SC
The 911 is a serious sports car, and it’s hard to believe the model has just celebrated its half century. With this sort of history, driving one is just the special experience you might imagine, one dominated by that air-cooled engine slung out back.
It makes a terrific noise under hard acceleration that encourages you to push harder, something that’s easy to do with the power on offer. And if 180bhp doesn’t sound like much in this day and age, it is still enough to shove the coupé to 60mph in around 6.5secs – later 204bhp cars would crack 6sec.
But it’s not just about speed of course as there is also the famed 911 handling to master, and learning to get the best out of one of these cars is all part of the experience. The reputation isn’t great and a downhill corner taken at speed – especially in the wet – could well result in a tricky moment, but plenty of owners reckon that reputation is unfair.
Taking a ‘slow in/fast out’ approach to cornering works best, but in the dry the traction endowed on the 911 by that rear-engine layout is undeniably impressive. So too is the steering, which feels alive in your hands as you thread the compact SC down the road, and with no power assistance to corrupt the feel it’s a very responsive set-up.
The suspension works well too, the nose gently bobbing up and down courtesy of those torsion bar springs, and the brakes are powerful. The cabin of the SC is classic 911 too, the driver faced by a five-dial instrument pack, rev-counter directly ahead. Okay so there is a somewhat scattergun approach to the minor controls but it’s easy to get used to, and in any case there is plenty else to concentrate on including the quirky floor-hinged pedals. The spindly gear lever looks a touch awkward but actually proves fine to use. With a good driving position and excellent visibility the 911 could just be the perfect everyday sports car.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1 Despite the galvanized body, 911s of this vintage are susceptible to corrosion and eradicating it can cost a fortune. Careful checking is needed – preferably by a specialist – concentrating on areas such as the front wings (particularly around the headlamp bowls), the sills, and the ‘kidney bowls’ that sit at the rear of the sill behind each door opening. Look closely for any signs of bubbling beneath window rubbers, especially the front and rear screens, and pay particular attention to the B-pillars – a mixture of steel and aluminium means they corrode around the door catches and can be costly to fix.
2 Check the bumpers are firmly affixed as the mountings rot. You need to check the floor pan thoroughly including within the front luggage compartment as water ingress might have allowed rot to take hold. Only ‘Sport’ models had a rear spoiler fitted as standard, so ensure aftermarket additions are fitted properly.
3 The characterful flat-six engine is tough, but only if it’s been maintained correctly. Neglect will play havoc with reliability (and with your bank account) so check carefully for excessive exhaust smoke, signs of low oil pressure, or major oil leaks – minor weeps are common and usually nothing to worry about. Timing chain tensioners are a weak spot and failure will destroy the interference engine, so ask when they were last changed, and what quality of parts were used. Cylinder heads can suffer from broken studs which aren’t always obvious so check around the join between head and cylinder barrel for signs of air or oil leakage. Poor running could be down to issues with the Bosch injection
system, which may need specialist attention to sort. A loose fuel pump relay in the front luggage compartment can cause sporadic cutting out. Various revisions saw the 180bhp output of early cars raised to 204bhp by the end of production.
4 The SC was fitted with the ‘915’ gearbox, a source of much debate among 911 drivers and enthusiasts. Don’t ignore one with issues as it won’t be cheap to fix, but the recalcitrant gearchange that many complain of can differ between cars and some adjustment is possible – slow and deliberate ‘changes seem to be key to extracting the best from it. It is worth checking for signs of a tired clutch, as replacement is labour-intensive. Listed as a special option by Porsche, the three-speed ‘Sportomatic’ auto ‘box isn’t especially well-regarded and was dropped after 1979.
5 Suspension is a combination of MacPherson-style struts at the front and semi-trailing arms at the rear, with torsion bar springs at both ends. Worn bushes aside, it’s a sound arrangement that rarely gives trouble. A check of the mountings for corrosion is recommended while brakes and steering should be similarly trouble-free and any car that’s been maintained properly should fine here. Wheels were either ‘cookie-cutter’ ATS rims or the familiar Fuchs items, and both can be refurbished at reasonable cost. Upgrades and modifications to brakes/suspension are fairly common, so ensure you’re happy with the standard of work.
6 It’s worth ensuring the heating system works okay – rotten heat exchangers are the bugbear here – and likewise the optional air-conditioning if fitted (repair costs may have deterred previous owners).
7 The SC was the first full convertible 911, so needless to say you’ll need to check the condition of the hood and its frame. Also popular was the ‘Targa’ model – a name trademarked by Porsche – with its lift-out roof panel. Check the condition of the roof seals on both models and ensure water leaks haven’t damaged trim or begun to cause corrosio
Forget any thoughts that the SC is a poor-man’s 3.2 Carrera. Values are rising rapidly, and being one of the lighter and purer of the breed is proving popular with owners and specialists alike. They are certainly being appreciated more and if prices are yet to overtake the 3.2, then they aren’t far behind. Restoration costs can be eye-watering so buying a good one to begin with is advisable. Most have been rebuilt by now, but factor this in if this isn’t the case.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 2994cc/6-cyl/SOHC
Power 180bhp@5500rpm
Torque 188lb ft @4200
Top Speed 141mph
0-60mph 6.5sec
Economy 21mpg
GEARBO 5-spd man/3-spd auto
Weights & measures
Height 1320mm (52in)
Width 1626mm (64.1in)
Length 4291mm (169.1in)
Wheelbase 2272mm (89.5in)
KERB WEIGHT 1160kg (2557lb)
OUR VERDICT
Buy a 911 and you’ll own one of the world’s finest sports cars. The SC is a great example of the breed with all the classic design cues and strong performance, but caution is needed. A bad one will be a money pit – a good one however will be an absolute joy.
PORSCHE 911 CARRERA REVIEW
The last of the classic-era 911s is also arguably the best buy, but be wary.
The 911 Carrera 3.2 was launched in 1984 to replace the 911 SC. Most changes in what was a gentle evolution focused on the rear-mounted, six-cylinder engine. A rise in size to 3164cc was good but the major news was Bosch Motronic engine management. Later 911s do carry a bit more weight than earlier cars, but have a fair dose more grunt. You could specify a big rear wing, brakes and suspension of the Turbo for the Turbo-look.
VITAL STATISTICS
Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera
Engine 3164cc/flat-6/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 231bhp@5900rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 209lb ft@4800rpm
Top speed 151mph
0-60mph 5.5sec
Consumption 22-25mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Don’t let talk of galvanised bodies distract you. These 911s can – and do – rust. Accident damage is also an issue as not everyone respected the handling quite as much as they should. Be very wary of any suspect panel gaps and check for repairs that aren’t up to scratch. A blow-over can quickly make even a rough 911 appear smart at first glance. Rot can strike in the front wings around the headlamps and the trailing edge, but you really need to get underneath to check around the rear suspension mounts and inner wings. If you see any sign of bubbling just ahead of the rear wheels, above the sill line, expect significant rot. Also check the ‘kidneys’ – the panelwork to the rear of the door-shut. Rot here can be terminal, so ensure they are both solid.
ENGINE
These engines are tough, with the hydraulic timing chain tensioner a huge improvement over earlier models. However, 911s often cover huge distances, so check the service history to see if the recorded mileage can be verified. Any clattering from the engine is bad news and suggests a top end rebuild is likely to be required. Watch for blue smoke too, as cylinders can wear, especially if lots of short journeys have been undertaken. Check the service history for work carried out as well as stamps. Recent engine work is always a bonus.
Until 1987, the 915 gearbox was used. This can be very clunky in first and second, especially when cold. The later G50 gearbox is considered an improvement – spot it by reverse gear being next to first. It came with a hydraulic clutch too, so the pedal should be lighter. Once warm, either gearbox should allow quick, crunch-free changes.
ELECTRICS
The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.
RUNNING GEAR
The brakes should naturally haul the car to a quick halt with the minimum of fuss. The torsion bar suspension has little to go wrong, but worn dampers can make a 911 feel skittish and tired bushes can lead to clonking and vagueness. People are sometimes tempted to modify the height. They shouldn’t. The steering should be accurate and entirely free of play. Inspect the tyres. You want deep tread, not worn out rubber by a different manufacturer on each corner.
INTERIOR
Ventilation is a weak point, so make sure the air conditioning is working if fitted. Assume it isn’t working if told it has been disconnected. Check the electric windows too and make sure the heater can be turned on/off. Damage to the seats is rare as they are hard wearing, but that and wear on the steering wheel and pedal rubbers can be used to help gauge whether the recorded mileage is genuine.
OUR VERDICT
There is surely no better entry into 911 ownership than the 3.2 Carrera. It’s the final evolution of the original, tracing its roots right back to 1966. The 964 that replaced it was substantially different. So, if you want the classic Porsche experience, the 3.2 is a less expensive option to consider.
PORSCHE 911 930 TURBO REVIEW
By 1975 the Porsche 911 had already been in the public eye for 12 years, in production models and also the racetrack, spearheaded by the top of the range Carrera RS models of 1974. But it wasn’t until then that the venerable 911 gained the power to truly exploit its sublime design. Early RSR prototypes had experimented with turbocharging in 1974, and it was this research work that paved the way for the introduction of one of the most famous 911 models of all time the Porsche 911 Turbo (aka the 930).
Unlike previous models, the 911 Turbo was given the bodywork to suit its power output, early models sporting the infamous ‘whale tail’ rear spoiler, brought in to help tame the 911’s twitchy handling by increasing downforce over the rear driving wheels and wider arches to accommodate fatter tyres. It helped achieve this, and also made it one of the most iconic designs to ever grace a bedroom wall. Later cars would be given an intercooler, which was located in the spoiler to maximise cooling – often mistaken to be the radiator by the layman.
The first cars were fitted with a 3-litre flat-six engine that produced an impressive 260bhp – a 50bhp improvement over the 2.7 RS. The huge turbocharger did wonders for power output, but it wasn’t without its foibles, early cars being famed for their horrendous turbo lag. Keep this in mind when considering which 911 is right for you.
By 1978 the model had evolved. An increase in engine capacity to 3.3-litres combined with the new spoiler-mounted intercooler squeezed a further 40bhp from the engine, peak power coming in somewhere around the 300bhp mark. This gave the 911 Turbo truly legendary performance, and its homologation into the FIA Group 4 competition allowed Porsche to showcase it on the racetrack.
Amongst other prestigious competitions, the Turbo was entered into the renowned 24 Heurs de Le Mans, where it had some memorable battles with the BMW 3.0 CSL ‘Batmobile’.
While values of 911 Turbos are on the up, the investor’s choice is the ‘Flachbau’ or ‘slant nose’, which was an option available through Porsche’s special order scheme. Rather than the normal 911 front, each Flachbau was reworked by hand to include a more aerodynamic wedge shape. An expensive option when new, these cars are now highly sought after. A performance kit was also added to these prestigious models, upping power to 330bhp. This was achieved with the addition of a 4-branch exhaust system, modified rockers and a beefy intercooler.
PORSCHE 911 964 REVIEW
When the Porsche 911 964 Carrera appeared in 1989, it was touted to be three-quarters brand-new. Originally only available with four-wheel drive, a rear-wheel drive variant was added in 1989. Coupe, Targa and cabriolet versions were available. The engine was a new 3.6-litre flat six, and the suspension was comprehensively overhauled over the long-lived 930. Not only did the car have dampers and coil springs, but power steering and ABS were now standard fitments. The rear spoiler raised automatically above 50mph, which gave speeding owners no excuses when caught by the then-new speed camera network. This era of 911 heralded the first use of tiptronic (semi-automatic) gearboxes.
1992 saw the release of the Carrera RS, which featured lightweight construction methods and 260bhp. It featured stiffer springs, limited slip differential and a close ratio gearbox. Later, a turbo-bodied version called the RSR appeared, pushing out 300bhp thanks to a 3.8-litre engine.
The 964 Turbo didn’t appear until 1990 and used the 3.3-litre engine from the 930 but with tweaks to avoid turbo lag and add power. This all added up to 320bhp. The Turbo S of 1992 added a further 56bhp and lowered suspension, and a somewhat minimalist aesthetic to its interior.
In 1993 the Turbo started using the Carrera’s 3.6-litre engine, which yielded 360bhp. In 1994, the last remaining Turbo bodies were made available with ‘Flachbau’ slant-nose bodywork or normal bodies; these were sold as the Turbo 3.6S. A cabriolet version of the Turbo was made available in 1992. A limited edition Speedster version appeared in 1989 and 1994. The 1989 car shares its underpinnings with the 930, but the 1994 car is based on the 964 Carrera and RSR
PORSCHE 911 996 REVIEW
By 1993 the Porsche 911 formula was well and truly tried and tested, so it came as no surprise that the brand new 911 993 looked very much like its predecessors. Though most elements were the same (rear-wheel drive, rear-mounted air-cooled flat six), there was also a great deal that was different. The bodywork was completely changed for a start. Though it looked like the 964 from a distance, trained eyes are drawn to the much fatter rear wheel arches, teardrop mirrors and the retractable rear wing, penned by Englishman Toni Hatter. The bumpers were also smoothed off, as was the style at the time. Despite the subtle external changes, the roof panels and doors were kept the same, showing the close similarity with earlier models.
The styling changes weren’t all for show though. The wider rear arches, aggressively cool as they were, were actually a requirement due to the new all-alloy subframe, complete with alloy suspension arms. This modification helped to increase high-speed stability, and the new suspension did much to address the 911’s tendency for oversteer – a well-noted problem on previous iterations of the model.
The changes went deeper still, with the 993 being the first production Porsche to be fitted with a 6-speed manual gearbox. A Tiptronic option was also available, the slick 4-speed transmission capable of smooth and quick shifts – definitely worth considering if you do a lot of driving in the city. Changes were also made to the optional 4-wheel drive system that was available with the 964. The new system did away with one of the three differentials, replacing it with a viscous coupling system that reduced weight and improved handling characteristics.
While the 911’s trademark flat-six engine stayed at the same capacity at the 964, its 3.6-litres now translated to 272bhp, largely due to an improved management system and better exhaust. However, the cream of the crop was the RS version. As with previous iterations, the engine was bored-out over the capacity of the standard model, this time to 3.8-litre. This was enough for Porsche to tease out 300bhp.
The most powerful production 911 of this era, however, was again the 911 Turbo, only this time it put out over 400bhp. Not only did it offer staggering performance, it was the first production Porsche to feature a twin-turbocharged engine, and was also the first 911 Turbo to be fitted with permanent four-wheel drive.
The 993 was a special car not only for its looks and performance, but for what it represented the end of an era. The 993 was to be the last air-cooled Porsche to ever be made, bringing to a close a chapter of motoring that is looked back on with great fondness for sports car fans. As the last ‘true’ 911, the 993 is valued strongly, with the Turbo version being top of the pile. A decent example will set you back upwards of £30,000, with the sky being the limit for especially low mileage examples. Though reliable, we would advise you to get a specialist to check over any potential purchase. Engine rebuild costs can be hugely expensive.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 3600cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 281bhp@6100rpm
TORQUE 252lb ft@5250rpm
TOP SPEED 171mph
0-60MPH 5.4secs
ECONOMY 24mpg
GEARBOX 6-speed manual
ROAD TEST
It's the brilliance of the steering that really defines this car. It didn't promise much initially, feeling distant and unresponsive at the off. But up the ante, and really drive this 993-generation Porsche 911, it wakes up, and you begin to feel at one with the car as it settles into its comfort zone. But then the 911 is a car of contrasts - and has been in each successive generation.
These mixed messages start with the interior. It's easy to be less than impressed at first acquaintance. The Spartan dashboard comprises an oval bank of instruments, a radio (in front of the passenger) and that's about it. The pedals feel offset towards the centre of the car - much like the steering wheel, and once you've adopted the necessary seating position, you wrestle with the vast turning circle, rubbery steering and those broad hips, which make placing it tough in tight spaces.
On the plus side, it's beautifully-trimmed, and while headroom is at a premium, there's plenty of wiggle-room for your elbows and ample legroom for the driver. But 911 veterans know that the urban grind is not for these cars; what you need is a winding A-road, is its natural hunting ground.
Point it at a flowing ribbon of tarmac, squeeze the throttle, and that rasping flat-six begins to sing. It's then you find that controls have been set-up perfectly for the driver in a hurry - almost as if Porsche had applied more than 30 years of development to get you down this road as quickly as possible.
It's not quite perfect, though. The floor-hinged throttle is lower than the brake, making heel-and-toe shifts near-impossible, save under hard braking. Otherwise it gels supremely well.
As familiarity mounts, you learn to confidently place it, inch-perfect, on the road. The lack of headroom feeling like a race helmet rather than a roof.
The oft-debated position of the engine, isn't as mad as some would have you believe. Having all that weight at the back means the nose is lighter, more delicate and easier to point. Treat it with respect and factor in some common sense, and the 993 is far from being a widow-maker.
Once you master the correct technique, and get the most from the 993, it comes together and truly begins to make sense. Any reservations simply melt away. And you begin to see the 911's seemingly glacial evolution for what it is: not a result of a lack of imagination, but a classic sports car that has undergone relentless improvements over the decades.
The 993 is, in short, the pinnacle of Porsche's air-cooled development. It's exciting, visceral and an all-time classic. In a very real sense, it could well be the greatest Porsche 911 of the lot.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Produced from 1998 to 2005, the Porsche 911 996 carried on the 911 dynasty that started ruling in 1963 – but it did things slightly differently. 1998 marked the end of the air-cooled era, and the 996 was the first 911 to feature an engine that was liquid-cooled. Despite this change, continuity was the order of the day in other areas. Styling, in particular, stayed true to Porsche’s tried and tested formula – if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Subtle cues were added as a nod to modernity though, most notably the larger headlights. The oval headlamps of previous models had been a trademark of the brand since the 60s, but by the mid 90s were looking decidedly dated.
While it was outwardly very similar to previous 911s, the 996 was in fact the first 911 not to use any significant components from the previous model – largely due to the new water-cooled engine. Some things never change, though, and the car still had its engine at the back, and it was still a flat-six. In naturally aspirated guise it produced a handy 296bhp.
After two years of strong sales Porsche introduced the eagerly anticipated Turbo model, which, following the trend set by the 993, featured a twin-turbocharged engine – this time 3.6-litres. The performance figures were impressive 420bhp and a 0-60mph time of 4.2 seconds. If this wasn’t enough raw power there was even a ‘X50’ option that became available in 2002, using larger turbochargers and a revised management system it produced a whopping 450bhp. These cars are still highly prized among enthusiasts, though they share performance stats with the Turbo S, which arrived in 2005.
Far and away the most desirable models of the range are the fabled GT2 and GT3 variants – lightweight pseudo-racers based on the 996 platform. The GT2 was the most powerful version, offering a staggering 489bhp. All this power was channeled through the rear wheels, as the GT2 class of racing mandated rear-wheel drive only. It was light as well, being essentially a stripped-out Carrera 4S. Both GT2 and GT3 were offered with much stiffer suspension and no creature comforts in order to save weight. Six-speed manual transmissions were the order of the day; these were essentially race cars for the road, after all.
PORSCHE 912 REVIEW
Porsche’s move upmarket when the 911 arrived in 1964 prompted concerns that Stuttgart had abandoned the more affordable end of the sports car market previously occupied by the 356C.
The manufacturer’s answer was to mate the earlier car’s 1.6-litre flat four with the Butzi Porsche-penned shell of its successor to create the 912. At £2,467, it was around £1000 cheaper than its six-cylinder sibling, and was praised in period for its handling and quality. While it was a hit in the US, its performance and price – it cost more than an E-type, and two-and-a-half times more than a Triumph TR4 or a Lotus Cortina – meant its success in Europe was limited.
Porsche dropped the 912 from its range in 1969 after 31,000 were sold, but in 1976 the name briefly reappeared in the US only in 1976 as the 912E. Only 2092 versions of this model – which mated the ‘impact bumper’ 911 body with the 914’s engine – is now one of the most sought-after 911 derivatives of all.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1582cc/4-cyl/OHV
POWER 90bhp@5800rpm
TORQUE 90lb ft@3500rpm
MAXIMUM SPEED 115mph
0-60MPH 13.5sec
ECONOMY 25-30mpg
TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1. When starting a 912 from cold make sure the lights for the generator and oil pressure go out immediately. The 356-derived four pot can take big mileages if it’s well looked after, but it’s prone to leaking oil around the oil cooler and rocker areas. A ‘sewing machine’-esque engine note is normal, but any excessive rattling or knocking could indicate worn bearings or camshaft issues looming.
2. Check the fuel lines carefully to see if they’ve been replaced, as original items – which in the earliest cars will be more than half a century old – will be perishing and prone to leaking. Leaving an original set of fuel lines unchecked is inviting an engine fire – it’s located almost directly above the engine fan, which will spray and leaking fluids right around the engine bay.
3. Inspect the VIN plate carefully, which is stamped into the bodyshell just behind the fuel tank in the front compartment. Unlike the riveted chassis plate – which can be found attached to the bonnet catch panel on the earlier models and on the right side front inner wing on the 912E – it’s difficult to tamper with and any signs of it being altered should prompt questions about the car’s identity.
4. A lot of cars have been imported from the US. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, as the climate in the dry states generally means these cars suffer less from tin worm, but check carefully for proof of servicing because there have been instances of US-market cars not being the same amount of TLC as cars originally sold in the UK.
5. Common corrosion sports include underneath the headlights, where water and debris has been thrown up by the front wheels, the lower edges of the doors where stone chips attack the paintwork and blocked drains allow moisture to build up on the inside, and around the top and rear of the rear wings, where clutter thrown up the rear wheels builds up.
6. The 912 was sold as standard with the 356’s four-speed manual transmission, but plenty of buyers paid for the 911’s five-speeder as an optional extra – both are pretty robust units, but check for any signs of whining or grinding during changes on a test drive. The 912E’s five-speed box – referred to in Porsche parlance as the 923 transmission - is unique to the car, but don’t let that put you off, as it’s identical in all but a few minor details to the 915 transmission fitted in post-1976 911S.
VERDICT
Anyone who tells you the 912 is the 911’s poorer relation clearly hasn’t driven one – it’s lighter than six-cylinder sibling and makes up for its lack of outright oomph with sweeter handling.
What it shares with the 911, however, is its crisp styling and wonderfully communicative steering, and while prices have risen in line with the wider classic market over the past five years they’re still, as a rule of thumb, cheaper to buy than 911s from the same era.
It’s comfortable, more than capable of cruising at motorway speeds and hugely enjoyable through the corners – and it’s much less obvious than its 911 counterpart.
PORSCHE 914 REVIEW
By the late 1960s, Volkswagen needed to replace the Karmann Ghia, while Porsche was on the hunt for a new entry-level model. So when the two companies' bosses found common ground, a deal was struck.
The minimalist Porsche 914 pitched into a world full of ageing 1950s fins’n’chrome barges. To Volkswagen and Porsche directors at the time this modernity was a no-brainer.
Porsche racing success was culminating with the monstrous 1000bhp 917. It seemed that a mid-engined configuration was the way forward for road cars. Ferrari’s front-engined GT cars looked dated compared to Lamborghini’s Miura. Porsche wanted a car to replace the 356-motored 911-bodied 912, and Volkswagen was more than happy to back the proposal for a platform-shared, doublebranded sportscar.
It had to be practical, fun and make money for both firms. The four-cylinder VW version would be completed in Osnabrück by Karmann while the bodyshells, intended to become sixcylinder Porsche iants, were shipped to Zuffenhausen to be finished on the 911 production line.
VW boss Heinz Nordhoff had organised this along his usual terms with Ferry Porsche – a gentleman’s agreement to supply. But a scant six weeks after the first 914 prototype ran, Heinz died, on 12 April 1968. This blow to the 914 project meant the car had no single champion within either firm, and new VW boss Kurt Lotz decided VW had exclusive rights to the design he told Porsche that 914 bodies would have to cost more to cover the percentage of the body tooling costs. Much negotiation ensued. It ended when a new company was set up, each partner of which owned 50 per cent, although neither parent firm felt the need to drive the project along.
Power for the 914/4 came from the VW 411E. This unit was well-received, and actually put out about as much power as the 356 super 90 motor it replaced in the Porsche Canon, even though this one was built by Volkswagen. Sales in America were initially supported by the low-ish price. In the UK, the opposite story held for the lhd-only 914. Between January 1970 and June 1973 a total of only 242 914s came into Britain. And only 11 were the desirable 914/6 versions. Crayford converted some to right-hand drive – but at over £600, this conversion cost as much as a two-year-old Triumph Spitfire.
Ultimately, 118,927 914s of all types were built, with 115,597 of them produced as fourcylinder VW versions. That isn’t too shabby for a car vilified in Britain for being a flop. A flop? Porsche 356 sold only 76,500, and the Jaguar E-type only 72,500 after a production run more than twice as long. Porsche’s mid-engined 914 opened the door to the Fiat X1/9 and Toyota MR2.
Sitting on the ‘new for ’73’ Fuchs alloys this 2.0-litre car finishes the story of the 914. The post-1972 line-up deleted 1.7-litre four and 2.0-litre flat-six options. It had the revised 914/12 transmission, answering on-going criticism of the change-quality of the older gearbox. But all the 914 traits remain. Pull the opening flap to swing the door wide – mind your fingernails! Drop into the seat and the sparse design almost echoes around you. Yes, the car’s well-made. But in a VW-Porsche, the links to the people’s car are oh-so apparent. Remember that in Britain, this car’s price dictated comparison to similarly costly sporting icons such as a Jaguar E-type, not the MGB.
Yet to compare the car’s contemporaries is to miss the point. Fire up the clattery old boxer four and you’re reminded of the opening bars of Kraftwerk’s 22 and a half minute opus, Autobahn. And therein lies the car’s métier. For two people, there can be no greater car to economically cross the vast spaces of West Germany than this 2.0-litre Volkswagen- Porsche. Endowed with enough performance to give sporting thrills, the VW motor encourages you to drive it flat-out. Air-cooled motors produce bhp, not torque, so the car is thrashable and handles with such aplomb that no keen driver would refuse a top-stowed blast through Baia.
With the little motor wound up, the car lacks the punch of anything as sophisticated as a Lotus Europa twin-cam, But its everyman demeanor helps you drive the car daily, getting closer to its character with each journey. What initially appears as a muted lack of design reveals a cleverness – like an Austin 1800, there’s almost too much space, but the chic quality means that if you have to ask, you probably wouldn’t understand.
It may sound critical, but this car is a cerebral treat rather than visceral experience. The very useability of the car makes survivors rare – like many ’70s cars the build-quality was patchy and rot prevalent in the lower six inches. But pedal one hard, fling it into a tightening set of switchbacks and those skinny tyres grip on and on, the helm feeds back with minute messages of slip and grip to make any journey a treat.
On an open road this thing is fun to keep pressing on in. Soon you’ll be covering ground so rapidly that it’s hard to understand how such prosaic mechanicals translate into such a glorious – and unlikely – driving machine. Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1971cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 100bhp@5000rpm
Torque 116lb ft@3500rpm
Top speed 120mph
0-60mph 9.1sec
Economy 23mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1. The 914 is an all-steel monococoque dating from the late 1960s, so like so many cars from this era, rust will be your biggest worry. Californian imports suffer less, but the later US safety bumpers are hardly things of beauty. Look behind the front bumper, and at the area around the torsion barr mountings on the bodyshell. Rust often affects the headlamp box below the pop-up lamps, and a blocked drain tube on the floor of the front boot leads to more problems. The front lid my have rotted at its rearmost corners, because the foam injected into the bracing members eventually becomes porous and holds water against the metal. Replacement is more cost effective than repair. Then check the scuttle just ahead of the windscreen, which is another common rust spot.
2. Check the seals of the targa roof and the quarter-lights for leaks. Open the doors and see if the GRP roof section can be fitted and removed easily. If the sills have been weakened, the car may sag in the middle, causing all manner of fit and finish issues. An outer cover on each sill is a common quick-fix, but they can conceal serious structural corrosion, so make sure you prod around at the exposed ends. Then lift the carpets to get a look at the inboard faces of the box sections and check the floor carefully where it meets them.
3. Damp in the footwells is common, and this leads to corrosion of the floor around the pedals and where the floor sections meet the centre tunnel. A seized brake pedal is one result: damp in the footwell causes the steel spindle to corrode and swell, and jam in its nylon bush mountings. Fresh air fan not working? It can fail because of cigarette ash falling inside the ashtray, and is generally sorted by cleaning. Exterior debris, such as leaves and road muck can burn out the motors. Door bottoms rust, and you should check the state of the shut face that carries the lock as well.
4. Next, look in the engine compartment behind the seats and check around the battery box for rust. Once started, it can spread backwards to the rear suspension mounting. Meanwhile, water and dirt accumulate in the rear suspension turrets, and the suspension leg will actually punch through the turret in particularly bad cases. Repairs are tricky and costly. Look, too, at the bottom of the rollover bar where an aluminium strip holds the vinyl trim in place; if the metal has rotted here, repairs involve removing the rear wings - which are welded rather than bolted in place. At the extreme rear of the car, check for rust in the boot floor, oftencaused by leaking tail light seals.
5. Engine maintenance is generally straightforward, although cars came from the factory with a fuel injection system and some DIY owners prefer to convert to carburettors rather than grapple with its complexities and costs. Experts reckon that a properly set u pinjection system is far preferable to carburettors, though, so make sure you've tried both before you go for a converted car. Dropped valves are a known weakness of these engines, as of other VW types of the period. Exhausts don't last well, either. Though the transaxle is a robust Porsche unit, driveshafts can fail, and their bolts can come adrift at the gearbox end.
6. The gear linkage on pre- 1972 cars isn't the best, and many owners have converted to the much-improved type that was introduced with the 2.0-litre models. It's a good precautionary measure to thoroughly overhaul the braking system and fuel lines when you take on one of these cars. The handbrake is built into the rear calipers, and can seize; the cable can also break. Note that brake dsics for the 2.0-litre models have a different offset from those on smaller-engined 914s, and the two aren't interchangeable. Fuel lines can rot through - especially in the area of the battery tray.
OUR VERDICT
Driver comfort is good and the mid-mounted engine gives wonderful handling. However, the rubbery-feeling gearbox can be tricky to use, and the ride is a bit firm at low speeds, although it does smooth out at speed. Go for a 2.0-litre model if you can, with its 120mph top speed and strong mid-range punch.
PORSCHE 924 REVIEW
The car that brought Porsche back from the brink of financial ruin impresses
Porsche AG stepped away from their usual air-cooled mid/rear engined configuration for the 1976 release of their new entry level model; the water cooled, front engined, rear wheel drive Porsche 924 2+2 Coupe. Built to replace the Porsche 914 and Porsche 912 (and itself replaced by the 944), the 924 was originally to be a Volkswagen, who commissioned Porsche to build them a sports car but never produced the design due to the oil crisis; opting to build the Volkswagen Scirocco instead. Instead Porsche bought the design back off Volkswagen in a deal that specified the car was to be built at a Volkswagen plant. This lowered the cost of production significantly for Porsche, making the car affordable to the public and as such it became one of Porsche's best ever sellers. Since the car was originally intended for VW showrooms, when released it was powered by VW's EA831 2.0LI4 engine mated to an Audi gear-box; this setup giving the car a respectable 125hp. With the success of 911 Turbo, Porsche decided to add a turbo-charged version of the 924 to their lineup to bridge the gap between the 924 and 911; which many Porsche dealers claimed was far too large. The 170hp Porsche 924 Turbo was released in 1978, however the car received poor reviews. Reliability was poor due to considerable over-heating and as such Porsche revised the model, releasing the 177hp Porsche 924 Turbo Series 2 in '81. Both standard and Turbo models sold well, prompting Porsche to release the race-inspired Porsche 924 Carrera GT at Le Mans. The Carrera GT was an aggressive looking car, with plenty of air intakes giving it purpose, and with 210hp it certainly had bite to match its bark. Success of the Carrera GT inspired Porsche to build more and more powerful versions of the 924; the 924 S (using a slightly detuned version of the 944's 2.5 litre straight four), the 245hp Porsche 924 Carrera GTS, the race-spec Carrera GTS Clubsport and the ultimate 375hp Porsche 924 Carrera GTR race car. Today, the 924 is still well provided for by dealers. There are also plenty of owners clubs who organise events, including the 924 Racing Championship run by Porsche Club Great Britain.
VITAL STATISTICS
Porsche 924S
Engine 2479cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 150bhp@5800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 144lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 135mph
0-60mph 7.8sec
Consumption 19.8mpg
Gearbox 5-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
One of the biggest myths surrounding the 924 concerns its resistance – or otherwise – to body corrosion. Bar-room ‘experts’ will blithely tell you that all Porsches were galvanised at the factory, and therefore cannot rust, but this is only partly true. Cars built prior to 1980/1981 were only partially galvanised, so early models need care when it comes to checking for rust.
One of the most common 924 rot-traps is the area around the bottom rear corner of the front wings, where a bolt attaches the lower part of the outer wing to the floorpan. The battery tray is another weak spot, corroding through and allowing water to leak into the interior and fusebox, causing predictable electrical havoc.
It's worth getting underneath to check the condition of the fuel tank as replacing a rotten one is a time-consuming job that requires the transaxle to be dropped.
Being a Porsche, the 924 left the factory with resolutely consistent 7mm door panel gaps, so any significant deviation from this is likely evidence of a car that has suffered a shunt at some point. Also ensure the pop-up headlamps work and sit flush when lowered. Misalignment could be a sign of poor body repairs, while a failed motor can't be replaced and will need replacing.
ENGINE
The standard 924’s engine may be the least powerful, but it’s also one of the least troublesome, not least as it’s a non-interference engine, meaning a snapped cambelt doesn’t necessarily mean a detonated engine. However, changing the 924’s cambelt is relatively straightforward, so make sure it’s been done recently. Diligent owners will have replaced the tensioner pulley at the same time.
The 924S, introduced in 1986, retained the standard 2.0-litre 924’s narrow body, but gained a de-tuned version of the 944’s 2.5-litre ‘four’. Unlike the standard 924’s engine, this is an interference engine, so evidence of a recent (every 30,000 miles is ideal) cambelt change is a must. It’s a more complicated job, however, thanks to the need for a second belt, more pulleys and – if the job has been done properly – a new water pump, preferably one fitted with a metal impeller.
The Turbo is the most powerful of the 924 family (up 25bhp on the S), but also potentially the most problematic. The main issue is that the KKK turbo installation relies on the car being left to idle for a few minutes after a run to allow the turbo to cool. Switching the engine off immediately can allow the oil to reach boiling point and accelerate wear on the turbo bearings. Post-1981 cars were modified with improved crankcase breathing to help alleviate this problem, however.
Neglected servicing is your main concern as dirty oil and filters will accelerate valve-gear wear, and you need to ensure there's no exhaust smoke or signs of low oil pressure. And if a rebuild is required, bear in mind that many of the original Porsche parts - including valve guides, cam followers and engine mounts - are unavailable, so alternatives will need to be sourced.
The low-slung radiator can suffer stone damage, so check coolant levels and watch for signs of poor running as the induction system is sensitive to air leaks. Hot starting issues due to fuel vaporisation can be cured - and were sorted on later cars - but the Bosch K-Jetronic injection system isn't a concern otherwise. It's also worth checking the condition of the electrical harness servicing the starter motor and alternator - it runs close to the exhaust manifold and is prone to melting its insulation.
ELECTRICS
The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.
RUNNING GEAR
924 transmissions are reassuringly tough, but a leaky heater matrix (located directly above the clutch housing) will contaminate the clutch and shorten its life drastically if left untouched. A low whirring noise from the transmission tunnel on early 924s can be indicative of failed driveshaft bearings, which are pricey to fix, but an apparently broken clutch on a 924S might be nothing more serious than a collapsed clutch centre plate rubber damper. The standard 924 used much tougher coil springs.
BRAKES
Suspension-wise, normally aspirated 924s shared components with the VW Beetle and Scirocco, so parts can be found at a reasonable cost, although it is worth checking for any corrosion around the mounting points and for tired bushes and dampers. Neither the brakes nor steering give any cause for concern over and above general wear and tear, although it is worth inspecting the former for seizure due to lack of use.
INTERIOR
The cabin of a 924 is well screwed together, although the dashboard can suffer from cracks. They can be repaired, though, and secondhand items are reasonably plentiful.
As they are so cheap, now, 924s are popular with trackday enthusiasts. Given that preparation for these events usually involves little more than stripping out the interior, beefing up the suspension and fitting a roll cage, it’s not difficult to return a track car back to road-spec. Check for loose or ill-fitting trim, while neatly aligned bolt-sized holes in the floorpan may suggest that a roll cage might have been fitted at some point and later removed.
Electrical gremlins can besiege any indifferently-maintained 924. The switches that raise and lower the headlight pods, for example, are sealed, meaning failure involves replacement not repair. This in turn may have forced a cash strapped previous owner into resorting to bodges. A rusty battery tray can also allow water ingress onto the fusebox located directly beneath in the passenger footwell, while cold start and fuel pump relays are further common failings.
The Pasha seat material is available from European suppliers, but retrimming costs can soon mount, so don't ignore a tatty interior.
OUR VERDICT
No doubt about it: all 924s are now bona fide classics whose values can only increase from here on in, but if there’s one model it’s probably wisest to avoid as a general rule, it’s the Turbo. Yes, its performance is impressive, but the 924S isn’t that far short of its outright pace and its engine is much more tolerant of anything less than kid glove treatment. If you can be absolutely sure of a Turbo’s provenance, then go ahead, but otherwise, we’d look elsewhere.
Find a good example of the standard 924, and it will make a fine value first classic, but we suspect the lack of power will soon have you hankering after the greater poke offered by the S. As well as being more powerful, the 924S lacks the van-related stigma of the earlier car, and enjoyed a variety of modifications over the standard car. Of the three, it’s easily the best choice.
PORSCHE 944 REVIEW
Budget options aren’t usually as good as Stuttgart’s four-pot Porker
Anyone who tells you a proper Porsche needs more cylinders probably hasn’t spent enough time driving a 944. Yes, the acoustics aren’t quite as thrilling, but performance is sparkling – even without a turbocharger – and the handling is simply excellent. It won’t try to hurl you into the scenery in the same unforgiving manner as an equivalent 911, though you still need to be a bit cautious when pushing on.
Some early 944s lack power steering, but thankfully the later system doesn’t rob too much feel and does improve comfort.
Automatics are either something you like or don’t. With only three ratios, they certainly don’t sparkle in quite the same way when it comes to putting the power down.
VITAL STATISTICS
Porsche 944 S2
Engine 2990cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 208bhp@5800rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 207lb ft@4100rpm
Top speed 140mph
0-60mph 6.7sec
Consumption 22mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Check the snout for accident damage. Being low, it’s prone to the odd knock and the fog lamps can get broken. Make sure the pop-up headlamps work. Engines are generally robust, but service history is very beneficial, and essential if the price is high. Timing belts need replacing every 48,000 miles but these days, the four-year interval is more relevant. The engine choice is 2.5 8v (Lux), 2.5 16v (S), 2.5 8v (Turbo), 2.7 8v (Lux) or 3.0 16v (S2). Power ranges from 150bhp to 250bhp for a Turbo S. Note that the 16v engines use a small timing chain between the camshafts – this needs replacing when the timing belt is done and pushes the price up. Expect to pay from £500 upwards for a belt change. Watch for head gasket failure too. Regular coolant changes are absolutely essential and often forgotten. Watch for exhaust smoke from Turbos.
Watch out for tired dampers causing a skittish or bouncy ride in the corners. Also check for evidence of track use. Worn balljoints and bushes all add up to sloppy handling. The brake calipers can suffer from corrosion, especially if a car has spent a lot of time sitting. Be aware of seized caliper pistons causing excess heat or a pull to one side. Use a (safe) emergency stop on a test drive to check.
It’s a myth that the 944 is rustproof, though panels were galvanised. Rot is now common in the sills, beneath the battery and at the bottom of the front wings. Repair work can run into the thousands, as more rot may be lurking under the surface. Replacement parts may not be galvanised, so check any repairs very thoroughly indeed. Check the flanks for signs of accident damage: panel fit should be exemplary. The sunroof should work and neither it nor the tailgate should allow water into the cabin.
The Turbo and S2 have an underskirt that sits beneath the rear bumper. Check the rear lights for damage, though second-hand replacements can be as little as £20. On Cabriolets, check the roof carefully for damage. Only 5000 Cabriolets were built. Make sure the roof operates correctly and that it is not damaged – a replacement is likely to be around £500.
ELECTRICS
Make sure all electrical equipment works, including front and rear wipers, electric windows and the sunroof. The roof uses quite a complex mechanism, so fixing it isn’t easy and could have an impact if you decide to resell.
RUNNING GEAR
The gearbox is mounted at the rear so while a sloppy linkage isn’t tricky to sort out, check that the clutch has good bite. As you release the clutch, you may hear a rattling which is usually the torque tube. These can get noisy but failure is thankfully rare. The Volkswagen-sourced automatic gearbox is also tough, but watch for gears slipping or excessive noise: it could be a rubber-webbed flexplate breaking up and that’s a £1200 part.
Watch for dubious exhaust upgrades. Stainless steel is often seen as a wise move, but sports systems can be excessively noisy. What seems fun on a short test drive might be a considerable pain in the ear on a long journey. Fuel lines can corrode and proper Porsche replacements cost £1000 to fit as the subframes need dropping. Using flexible pipe can be a lot cheaper, but may upset the purists.
BRAKES
What condition are the wheels and tyres in? Are there signs of kerbing or unusual wear? Matching tyres from a reputable brand are a good indication of diligent ownership. A history file that includes a recent alignment check is encouraging – tyres that are worn along one edge less so. While the front suspension uses coil springs, the rear uses torsion bars. These can occasionally require re-indexing – where you reset the ride height – but not often.
INTERIOR
Cloth trim can deteriorate with time, though you may be able to source decent second-hand items for not too much outlay. But that situation is unlikely to last.
OUR VERDICT
If going ridiculously quickly isn’t the most important thing, you can have a lot of fun in a 944 LUX. They’re brisk and enjoyable. Turbos seem rather over-valued for our liking, though they are undeniably quick – 5.5 seconds to 60mph. The S2 is only a second behind though, and arguably much more drivable in real world circumstances. The torque on offer is staggering thanks to one of the largest capacity four-cylinder engines of the past 40 years.
PORSCHE 968 REVIEW
A substantial part of the 968’s appeal concerns its styling. For what is, in essence, a heavily re-worked 944, the 968’s colour-coded tail-lights and aggressive 928-alike exposed pop-up headlights give it a startling resemblance to its V8-engined GT big brother.
For something that delivers not far short of minor supercar performance and handling, the 968’s build quality is outstanding, too. Doors, even on the Club Sport, close with a comforting dull thud, and interior trim and minor controls and switchgear feel like they’ll last forever.
They’re mechanically tough, too, with the few weak areas (gearbox bearings, camshaft chain drives) coverable on a reasonable budget if you buy wisely, and adhere strictly to recommended service and repair intervals.
These are practical and while the transaxle means the boot is shallow, only the CS lacks rear seats.
Which should you choose? The standard 968 is a GT car and the Club Sport much more hardcore and driver-focused. The Cabrio is more of a cruiser.
It’s instantly clear that all 968s were designed specifically as proper sportscars from the moment you settle into the driver’s seat. The steering wheel is just about perfect in terms of size and weight and the position of the short-throw stubby gearlever is similarly spot-on. The minor controls have often been likened to boiled sweets scattered across the dashboard at random, but everything feels engineered not merely constructed.
All 968s use the same 3.0-litre engine and rack and pinion power-assisted steering, but the lighter Club Sport feels the most alive and has genuinely electric responses thanks to its higher power-to-weight ratio (180bhp per ton compared to the standard car’s 169bhp per ton).
And yet, 240bhp in something that, even in its most opulent guise, weighs only a smidgeon over 1400kg is always going to feel seriously quick. Factor in super-responsive steering, old fashioned rear drive and a front-rear weight distribution that’s not far off 50:50, and you’re left with a car whose heart and sould is pure sportscar. You’ll love it!
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
1 It’s almost unheard of to find any 1990s-era Porsche suffering from body corrosion; all 968s were galvanized at the factory, so even untreated stone-chips on that low-slung bonnet shouldn’t fester. Evidence of rust, then – even now that the cars are well out of their 10-year anti-corrosion warranty period – is almost certainly going to be as a result of heavy accident damage that’s been repaired inexpertly using pattern parts. Given that these cars are popular with the trackday fraternity, such damage is likely to have been substantial, too. Having said that (and rather curiously) one known 968 rot-spot is around the windscreen – leaking rubbers can instigate bubbling around the entire screen.
Owners also need to be aware that the galvanize acts as a sacrificial membrane, so as 968s age, they will corrode in the same places as older 924/944 siblings: sills, arches and battery tray.
2 The 2990cc engine is modified from the preceding 944 S2’s engine, and was therefore at the very peak of its extensive development by the time of the 968’s launch. Major problem are rare, then, although anything less than utter turbine smoothness indicates potentially expensive problems with the balancer shafts. Also watch the VarioCam system, which is controlled by Bosch’s proven Motronic engine management system. Its intentions are all good – chiefly to maximize fuel efficiency and reduce emissions from the twin-cam engine, but it also improved torque slightly – but if the chain drive that runs between the camshafts stretches – or worse, breaks – then you could be looking at a repair bill comfortably in excess of £1000. Evidence that the camshafts, tensioners and guides have been replaced every 75,000 miles or so (and the chain drive every 30,000 miles), is a big selling point.
3 Both of the available transmissions – a six-speed manual and a four-speed Tiptronic automatic with clutchless manual override – are bank-vault tough. Slop indicates that the dual-mass flywheel hasn’t long to live. More seriously – and more expensive to rectify – the manual gearbox’s bearings are susceptible to over-adjustment, and excessive wear will make its presence known by a loud noise accompanied by drivetrain judder both under load and power lift-off. Replacement is possible, but it’s a gearbox-out job, and therefore hugely expensive – bank on at least £800.
4 The 968’s suspension comprises front wishbones and MacPherson struts allied to gas-filled dampers, plus semi-trailing arms and torsion bars out back. Anti-roll bars are fitted front and rear. None of these components has a particular Achilles Heel, although the enthusiastic driving style that these cars encourage will inevitably accelerate wear to bushes, wishbones and balljoints, with a resultant feeling of sloppiness in driving feel. On Club Sports specced up with the optional M030 Sport Pack, adjustable Koni dampers set to their hardest setting suggest extensive track use, since the pack also comprises stiffer springs and roll-bars, and the CS warranted a 20mm lower ride height as standard anyway.
5 Brakes are similarly robust on these cars, although don’t be surprised to find that the brake calipers require a complete re-build every 18-24 months – corrosion eventually causes the plates that hold the pads in position to lift.
6 The 968’s interior is impressively hard-wearing. Aftermarket racing seats should start alarm bells ringing, but the Club Sport’s fiberglass Recaro seats are as comfortable as they are supportive. Standard chairs were available as a no-cost option but they added 17kg. Dashboards can be prone to splitting.
OUR VERDICT
Think ‘classic Porsche’, and everyone tends to think 911, but when was the last time you saw a 968? This must be due in part to the car’s relatively short life (just four years in total for right-hand drive models), but we suspect still more people dismiss it as being little more than a short-lived, warmed-over 944 S2.
And that’s a pity, because the 968 is a truly great car in its own right. The standard 944 may be more GT than GTI, but the Sport and Club Sport offer grown-up Porsche performance and driver involvement way beyond the budget spent.
Cars that have been cherished are proven to be mighty reliable, build quality is exceptional, and there’s even a degree of practicality. Replaced by the less macho Boxster in 1995, the 968 is one of the classic car world’s best-kept secrets. Don’t let on.
PORSCHE BOXSTER 986 REVIEW
Can’t quite afford a 911? Opt for a Boxster instead and you won’t be disappointed
Boxsters provide a comfortable driving position for both short and tall drivers, thanks to an adjustable-position steering wheel and decent seat adjustment. Once settled in, it quickly becomes apparent that the chassis and steering are so good that the Boxster can seem underpowered at times, especially the base 2.5-litre model. It blooms when being driven at the upper and outer edges of its performance envelope, easily making you laugh out loud with pure pleasure! The exquisite noise emanating from behind your ears makes you want to send the tachometer’s needle into the upper ranges again and again, as the flat-six’s ethereal wail really comes on song around 5000rpm. The car dances around country lanes, its nose responding to even the smallest inputs, the brakes so finely judged that you’ll found yourself left foot braking in time - a dab to tuck the nose in, unwind the steering and then nail the power. A good Boxster drives like a Porsche should then, and feels solid, just like a Porsche should.
VITAL STATISTICS
1996 Porsche Boxster 2.5
Engine 2480cc/6-cyl/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 201bhp@6000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 177lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 155mph
0-60mph 6.4sec
Consumption 29mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Park the car on level ground, then start the exterior examination by checking for signs of body damage or accident repairs. Corrosion is easy to spot as the paint will have bubbled and/or cracked. Measure the body panel gaps, particularly around the front and rear luggage compartment lids and the doors. If the gaps are even then chances are the body is straight. Major inconsistencies in gaps indicate the car has been poorly repaired after an accident.
ENGINE
Engine access is complicated, but it’s possible to carry out a basic inspection of the top of the engine. Look for obvious signs of oil, coolant and power steering fluid leakage. A known Boxster issue is failure of the engine’s rear main seal – a giveaway sign being when oil begins weeping from it. Owners usually keep an eye on the oil level and get a new RMS fitted when the car is having a clutch change or service, but if you’re viewing a car with a weeping seal, then factor this into your thinking when haggling on price.
ELECTRICS
Check around the combined headlight and indicator assemblies for cracked lenses and stone chip damage. You also need to grab a torch and peer through the front spoiler to assess the condition of the front mounted radiators. The excellent aerodynamic design of the Boxster is fantastic at drawing cooling air through the radiators, but the downside is that it also acts as an enormous vacuum cleaner, sucking up anything it can from the road surface. Make sure the radiators are clear of debris, as organic materials will decay and cause corrosion issues as the car ages.
Remove the plastic battery cover in the centre of the front luggage compartment and inspect the battery for condition and any evidence of acid spill and/or corrosion. Examine the compartment’s panelled areas for moisture damage and staining – if everything is clean, what lies beneath is probably in decent nick.
BRAKES
Check the brake discs (rotors), callipers and pads. Pad friction material must be greater than 2mm, and the discs must be free from damage or surface rust. Look for evidence of fluid leaks over any components in the wheel wells, including at the rear of each wheel.
INTERIOR
Inspect all interior fittings and assemblies, including assessing the condition of both seats, ensuring none of the trim is cracked, torn, faded or missing. Check all electric seat functions are working correctly, especially heated seats. A cracked dashboard is extremely expensive to repair. Run the electric windows up and down to see if there’s any moisture trapped within the door.
OUR VERDICT
The Boxster phenomenon didn’t happen by accident. Porsche has long understood the importance of component sharing, ever since the strategic revolution that transformed the company’s corporate fortunes in the mid-1990s. The original 986 Boxster was the first Porsche to prove the value of that concept, sharing much with the 996-generation 911. The Boxster was an immediate hit, and ever since has maintained an intimate relationship with the 911, while contributing strongly to Porsche’s bottom line.
Mixing almost perfectly resolved handling with serious performance and appealing value for money, the original Boxster’s status as a fully-fledged, envy-of-the-class Porsche sports car now seems indisputable. Grab one with the optional hardtop and you’ll be able to use it all year round too. Best of all, you can bag a decent example with full service history for as little as £5k today. What are you waiting for!
PORSCHE 217 REVIEW
By 1993 the Porsche 911 formula was well and truly tried and tested, so it came as no surprise that the brand new 911 993 looked very much like its predecessors. Though most elements were the same (rear-wheel drive, rear-mounted air-cooled flat six), there was also a great deal that was different. The bodywork was completely changed for a start. Though it looked like the 964 from a distance, trained eyes are drawn to the much fatter rear wheel arches, teardrop mirrors and the retractable rear wing, penned by Englishman Toni Hatter. The bumpers were also smoothed off, as was the style at the time. Despite the subtle external changes, the roof panels and doors were kept the same, showing the close similarity with earlier models.
The styling changes weren’t all for show though. The wider rear arches, aggressively cool as they were, were actually a requirement due to the new all-alloy subframe, complete with alloy suspension arms. This modification helped to increase high-speed stability, and the new suspension did much to address the 911’s tendency for oversteer – a well-noted problem on previous iterations of the model.
The changes went deeper still, with the 993 being the first production Porsche to be fitted with a 6-speed manual gearbox. A Tiptronic option was also available, the slick 4-speed transmission capable of smooth and quick shifts – definitely worth considering if you do a lot of driving in the city. Changes were also made to the optional 4-wheel drive system that was available with the 964. The new system did away with one of the three differentials, replacing it with a viscous coupling system that reduced weight and improved handling characteristics.
While the 911’s trademark flat-six engine stayed at the same capacity at the 964, its 3.6-litres now translated to 272bhp, largely due to an improved management system and better exhaust. However, the cream of the crop was the RS version. As with previous iterations, the engine was bored-out over the capacity of the standard model, this time to 3.8-litre. This was enough for Porsche to tease out 300bhp.
The most powerful production 911 of this era, however, was again the 911 Turbo, only this time it put out over 400bhp. Not only did it offer staggering performance, it was the first production Porsche to feature a twin-turbocharged engine, and was also the first 911 Turbo to be fitted with permanent four-wheel drive.
The 993 was a special car not only for its looks and performance, but for what it represented the end of an era. The 993 was to be the last air-cooled Porsche to ever be made, bringing to a close a chapter of motoring that is looked back on with great fondness for sports car fans. As the last ‘true’ 911, the 993 is valued strongly, with the Turbo version being top of the pile. A decent example will set you back upwards of £30,000, with the sky being the limit for especially low mileage examples. Though reliable, we would advise you to get a specialist to check over any potential purchase. Engine rebuild costs can be hugely expensive.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 3600cc/6-cyl/DOHC
POWER 281bhp@6100rpm
TORQUE 252lb ft@5250rpm
TOP SPEED 171mph
0-60MPH 5.4secs
ECONOMY 24mpg
GEARBOX 6-speed manual
ROAD TEST
It's the brilliance of the steering that really defines this car. It didn't promise much initially, feeling distant and unresponsive at the off. But up the ante, and really drive this 993-generation Porsche 911, it wakes up, and you begin to feel at one with the car as it settles into its comfort zone. But then the 911 is a car of contrasts - and has been in each successive generation.
These mixed messages start with the interior. It's easy to be less than impressed at first acquaintance. The Spartan dashboard comprises an oval bank of instruments, a radio (in front of the passenger) and that's about it. The pedals feel offset towards the centre of the car - much like the steering wheel, and once you've adopted the necessary seating position, you wrestle with the vast turning circle, rubbery steering and those broad hips, which make placing it tough in tight spaces.
On the plus side, it's beautifully-trimmed, and while headroom is at a premium, there's plenty of wiggle-room for your elbows and ample legroom for the driver. But 911 veterans know that the urban grind is not for these cars; teh opne, winding A-road, is its natural hunting ground.
Point it at a flowing ribbon of tarmac, squeeze the throttle, and that rasping flat-six begins to sing. It's then you find that controls have been set-up prefectly for the driver in a hurry - almost as if Porsche had applied more than 30 yearsof development to get you down this road as quickly as possible.
It's not quite perfect, though. The floor-hinged throttle is lower than the brake, making heel-and-toe shifts near-impossible, save under hard braking. Otherwise it gels supremely well.
As familiarity mounts, you learn to confidently place it, inch-perfect, on the road. The lack of headroom feeling like a race helmet rather than a roof.
The oft-debated position of the engine, isn't as mad as some would have you believe. Having all that weight at the back means the nose is lighter, more delicate and easier to point. Treat it with respect and factor in some common sense, and the 993 is far from being a widow-maker.
Once you master the correct technique, and get the most from the 993, it comes together and truly begins to make sense. Any reservations simply melt away. And you begin to see the 911's seemingly glacial evolution for what it is: not a result of a lack of imagination, but a classic sports car that has undergone relentless improvements over the decades.
The 993 is, in short, the pinnacle of Porsche's air-cooled development. It's exciting, visceral and an all-time classic. In a very real sense, it could well be the greatest Porsche 911 of the lotCopy the
PORSCHE 911 S REVIEW
The original Porsche 911 was first shown to the world in 1963 and marveled crowds with its sleek aerodynamic shape and rear-engined rear-wheel drive layout, similar to the much less sporty Porsche 356, which ended production in the same year. The earliest versions were fitted with a 2-litre 128bhp boxer engine, but by 1966 (a year after the 911 landed on US shores) customers were calling for more power.
Porsche answered with the introduction of the Porsche 911S model, which featured a 158bhp flat-six engine married to stylish Fuchs alloys. By 1967 the range was expanded to include a Targa model, which offered open top 911 driving for the first time. Rather than being a full convertible, the Targa was fitted with a hefty roll bar, a design addition that was kept largely due to oppressive US safety regulations.
The Neunelfer (as it became known in Germany) proved to be a huge sales success for Porsche, but it wasn’t until 1973 that the greatest 911 of them all came on the scene – the 911 Carrera RS, or Rennsport (race sport). It was the first time that the Carrera name had been used since the 356 went out of production, and was chosen to commemorate Porsche class victories in the Carrera Panamericana races, held in Mexico in the 1950s. Built to homologate the model for competition, the 911 RS utilised a 2.7-litre flat-six engine that was capable of producing 210bhp, with a Sport Lightweight version weighing a paltry 975kg thanks to thinner glass and steel over the standard Touring model. Overall, 1580 were made, smashing the 500-unit requirement to homologate the model for participation in the FIA Group 4 class.
A year later in 1974 Porsche introduced the 911 Carrera RS 3.0, a larger capacity fuel-injected model that upped power to around 230bhp, though still sharing a similar chassis to the 2.7 RS. Once again, the lightest materials were used, enabling the German firm to reduce the car’s shipping weight to only 900kg. The RS 3.0 proved to be a very capable sports car and scored a number of important victories on the racetrack throughout the 1970s. This model also formed the basis for the 911 RSR Turbo, which represented one of Porsche’s first forays into turbocharging – a route that would bring the tremendous success in future years, forming the basis of later performance 911 models.
As a general rule of thumb, the earlier the 911, the more collectable it will be – though the 2.7 RS model is the daddy of them all, with the prototype selling for $480,000 in 2008.
The main danger when buying one of these excellent sports cars is fakes – or ‘evocations’ as they’ve become known in the market place. Though practically indistinguishable from the real deal, these cars are worth considerably less and can be picked up for around £25,000.
Our advice? Invest in a lower powered 911T and watch its value slowly rise in line with the halo models. They’re still a barrel of laughs and will become much more valuable in years to come as the market becomes saturated with replica RS’.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1991cc/6-cyl/SOHC
POWER 130bhp@6100rpm
TORQUE 128lb ft@4200rpm
TOP SPEED 131mph
0-60MPH 8.3secs
ECONOMY 27mpg
GEARBOX 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Don’t let talk of galvanised bodies distract you. These 911s can – and do – rust. Accident damage is also an issue as not everyone respected the handling quite as much as they should. Be very wary of any suspect panel gaps and check for repairs that aren’t up to scratch. A blow-over can quickly make even a rough 911 appear smart at first glance. Rot can strike in the front wings around the headlamps and the trailing edge, but you really need to get underneath to check around the rear suspension mounts and inner wings. If you see any sign of bubbling just ahead of the rear wheels, above the sill line, expect significant rot. Also check the ‘kidneys’ – the panelwork to the rear of the door-shut. Rot here can be terminal, so ensure they are both solid.
ENGINE
These engines are tough, with the hydraulic timing chain tensioner a huge improvement over earlier models. However, 911s often cover huge distances, so check the service history to see if the recorded mileage can be verified. Any clattering from the engine is bad news and suggests a top end rebuild is likely to be required. Watch for blue smoke too, as cylinders can wear, especially if lots of short journeys have been undertaken. Check the service history for work carried out as well as stamps. Recent engine work is always a bonus.
Until 1987, the 915 gearbox was used. This can be very clunky in first and second, especially when cold. The later G50 gearbox is considered an improvement – spot it by reverse gear being next to first. It came with a hydraulic clutch too, so the pedal should be lighter. Once warm, either gearbox should allow quick, crunch-free changes.
RUNNING GEAR
The brakes should naturally haul the car to a quick halt with the minimum of fuss. The torsion bar suspension has little to go wrong, but worn dampers can make a 911 feel skittish and tired bushes can lead to clonking and vagueness. People are sometimes tempted to modify the height. They shouldn’t. The steering should be accurate and entirely free of play. Inspect the tyres. You want deep tread, not worn out rubber by a different manufacturer on each corner.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Ventilation is a weak point, so make sure the air conditioning is working if fitted. Assume it isn’t working if told it has been disconnected. Check the electric windows too and make sure the heater can be turned on/off. Damage to the seats is rare as they are hard wearing, but that and wear on the steering wheel and pedal rubbers can be used to help gauge whether the recorded mileage is genuine.
EXPECT TO PAY
Project £8000
Usable £12,000
Excellent £18,000
Concours £25,000
OUR VERDICT
There is surely no better entry into 911 ownership than the 3.2 Carrera. It’s the final evolution of the original, tracing its roots right back to 1966. The 964 that replaced it was substantially different. So, if you want the classic Porsche experience, the 3.2 is a less expensive option to consider.
PORSCHE 911 (993) REVIEW
As the last of the air-cooled 911s, the 993 is a special model for many fans
Classic Porsche 911 993 Review
The Porsche 993’s cabin is a fine place to be, with the traditional five-dial instrument pack (dominated by the rev counter) and a less scattergun approach to the positioning of the switches and minor controls than on previous models. The plush interior is also beautifully assembled, with a feeling of real quality to all of the materials.
On the road, the experience is as impressive as you’d expect from this potent car. Even if things are a bit more civilised than with earlier incarnations, you know straight away that you’re piloting one of the finest sports cars around. The noise of the air-cooled engine may have been muted slightly, but it’ll still raise the hairs on the back of your neck at full chat. And all this is accompanied by delightfully accurate power-assisted steering, powerful brakes and a real feeling of security from the multi-link rear suspension. It still demands a degree of respect, but make no mistake, the 993 is a proper 911.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 3600cc/6-cyl/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 272bhp@6100rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 252lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 160mph
0-60mph 5.2sec
Consumption 25mpg
Gearbox 6-spd man/4-spd auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
You should be aware that 911s are popular track day machines, so be sure to scrutinise the car and its history for any signs of previous accident repair. Lift the carpet in the front luggage compartment and check for evidence of new panels or for any tell-tale creases in the floor or inner wings, and look out for signs of new welding. Also inspect for damp in the luggage compartment, checking around the battery for corrosion, and make sure the tyre compressor is present.
The galvanised bodyshell resists corrosion well on the whole, but there are a few spots to check. Stone-chipping around the nose and headlamps is common, and make sure there is no bubbling around the front or rear windscreens – poorly fitted replacements can cause rust to develop. Check the panels aft of the wheels for paintwork damage from road debris, and ensure that the bumpers are secure – the mountings have been know to rot. Make sure the electric rear spoiler operates properly (it was fixed on RS and Turbo models), and take a look at the door check-straps – they can pull from their mountings as the doors were heavier than on previous models and a proper repair is pricey.
ENGINE
The 3.6-litre M64 engine is strong, but it needs proper maintenance, so avoid cars that aren’t accompanied by a perfect service history. The M64 is less prone to oil leaks than the later water-cooled engines, but check for signs of leakage all the same; regular oil changes are essential. If it’s not been done already, most engines will be ready for a rebuild around the 80,000-100,000-mile mark – the top end particularly – so budget accordingly. A smoky exhaust should be treated with extreme caution on any model, but pay particular attention on the Turbo – the twin KKK blowers give plenty of power and will have most likely been worked hard in the car’s lifetime. Post-1996 models received the Varioram variable inlet system for increased power and torque.
ELECTRICS
The 993 was available in cabriolet and Targa-roofed forms. On the former, check for hood damage and a cloudy plastic back window. Replacement is costly and non-Porsche items often don’t fit as well. On Targas, ensure the glass roof panels slide as they should, as the electrics can play up.
RUNNING GEAR
The six-speed manual gearbox – designated G50 on C2 models and G64 on 4WD cars – is tough, but prolonged track abuse can eventually take its toll. Make sure the gearshift action is slick and be alert for any whines, weak synchromesh or clutch slippage. The four-speed Tiptronic automatic ‘box wasn’t admired by everyone, but it is reliable on the whole – which is just as well, since replacing one will easily run into thousands of pounds. The 4WD system is generally trouble-free so long as it is maintained properly, but don’t ignore any dashboard warning lights.
BRAKES
The 993 is very sensitive to correct wheel alignment and setting the geometry needs specialist tools – odd handling or uneven tyre wear requires further investigation. A complete suspension refurb can easily cost £3000-4000 and wear isn’t always apparent, so a professional inspection is advisable. Watch for scored and corroded brake discs and check the condition of the Brembo brake calipers; they contain a steel section that can corrode, causing the pads to stick. Ensure the ABS warning light illuminates and extinguishes as it should, too.
INTERIOR
Interior trim materials and build quality is top-notch, so it’s mainly a case of inspecting for wear and tear. Make sure everything works, particularly the electric seat motors, and check for any damp caused by blocked drain-holes or leaking windscreen seals. Air-conditioning was a desirable option when new, so ensure that both it and the heater are working properly – a worn air-con pump or rusty heat exchangers are the main causes of problems.
OUR VERDICT
The 993 is seriously desirable, perhaps more so being the final recipient of the classic air-cooled engine. As with all older 911s, you’ll need to tread carefully if huge expense is to be avoided. Get a specialist inspection if you’re in any doubt about a car’s condition or provenance, but a cherished example of this legendary sports car will be an absolute joy.
PORSCHE 928 REVIEW
A front-engined GT was a real departure for Porsche.
Intended as a replacement for the 911, not all Porsche fans were enamoured by the idea of a front-engined GT diluting the brand. But the 928 was well-received by the motoring press, going on to win the Car of The Year Award in 1978. Debuting at the 1977 Geneva motor show, the 928 was launched with a 4.5-litre V8 engine pushing out a respectable 240bhp. The range developed with S2, S3, and S4 variants finally ending production in the mid 1990s with the GTS, while engines grew in size to 4.7 then 5.0-litre units. It is thought that around 18,000 928s were produced, however exact figures are hard to come by so that number may fluctuate to a small degree.
With some innovative design features and Porsche’s superb engineering and quality, the 928 makes a wonderful mile-eating GT (prodigious thirst aside). Despite the tiny rear seats, there is even an element of practicality, so if air-cooling doesn’t float your boat, the 928 could well be for you.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 4474cc/V8/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 240bhp@5250rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 268lb ft@3600rpm
Top speed 143mph
0-60mph 6.8sec
Consumption 20mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual or 3-speed auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
A galvanised steel body with aluminium panels, which include the doors, front wings and bonnet, means that serious rust is rarely an issue. The body-coloured polyurethane bumpers were unusual at the time and not only contributed to the clean design, but improved aerodynamics too. Replacements for these and other body panels are becoming scarce and will be costly. Damaged tailgate seals can let water into the luggage compartment so feel around the carpet and side panels for any signs of damp. It is also worth checking that those pop-up headlamps work smoothly – replacing the relay can be a simple fix but a new motor will sting financially. Bodywork repairs on a car such as the 928 are a costly affair too, so a thorough check is to be recommended.
ENGINE
The powerful V8 is a tough unit and with regular care is capable of racking up huge mileages. Proper servicing is the key here though high costs led many to neglect this aspect of ownership. Check the service history carefully.
Under the bonnet, oil and coolant leaks are the main things to look for as overheating will lead to headgasket failure and a large repair bill. Make sure you see evidence of regular cambelt changes too; the 4.5-litre engine doesn’t suffer valve to piston contact in the event of belt failure, but replacement is a tricky and expensive task. Engine management system faults can cause misfires or lumpy running which can be hard to track down while replacing a corroded exhaust system is getting on for four figures. The 928 is not the ideal candidate for home servicing, but professional care will pay dividends.
RUNNING GEAR
The 928 uses a transaxle layout and there is a choice of 5-speed manual or 3-speed automatic transmissions. Autos can suffer from a problem with incorrect tension and cracking of the flex-plate which is located at the flywheel. Incorrect setting leads to wear in the crankshaft thrust bearing and ultimately complete engine failure. Oil leaks from the transaxle casing are common, as are worn driveshaft bearings within the torque tube connecting engine and transaxle. Some specialists can replace the bearings separately rather than fitting a new tube, significantly reducing costs. That said both the auto and manual are tough. Suspension-wise, worn bushes in the cleverly-designed rear axle and leaking dampers are the main things to check for here. Worn brakes (particularly on autos), power-steering fluid leaks and uneven tyre wear are also things to look for. Replacement ‘telephone-dial’ alloys are hard to find now, but specialists can refurbish them for a reasonable cost.
INTERIOR
Niggling electrical problems and failed air-conditioning are the main issues, followed by temperamental central locking. The check-pattern ‘Pascha’ trim is almost impossible to get hold of now so a complete re-trim could be necessary if the condition is poor.
OUR VERDICT
The 928 is a fantastic example of the grand tourer breed, and that it flew in the face of Porsche convention of the time is reason enough for many people to buy one of these cars. Yes, maintenance costs can be high but that is to be expected at this level. Avoid the abused and neglected cars that languish in the classifieds and find one that has been looked after by a respected marque specialist. Do this and the 928 is likely to prove a satisfying and enjoyable ownership experience.
PORSCHE 911 3.2 CARRERA REVIEW
The last of the classic-era 911s is also arguably the best buy, but be wary. IAN SEABROOK explains
In 1984, prices started at £31,950 for the coupé, £33,450 for the targa and £36,450 for the cabriolet
The 911 Carrera 3.2 was launched in 1984 to replace the 911 SC. Most changes in what was a gentle evolution focused on the rear-mounted, six-cylinder engine. A rise in size to 3164cc was good but the major news was Bosch Motronic engine management. Later 911s do carry a bit more weight than earlier cars, but have a fair dose more grunt. You could specify a big rear wing, brakes and suspension of the Turbo for the Turbo-look.
VITAL STATISTICS
Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera
Engine 3164cc/flat-6/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 231bhp@5900rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 209lb ft@4800rpm
Top speed 151mph
0-60mph 5.5sec
Consumption 22-25mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Don’t let talk of galvanised bodies distract you. These 911s can – and do – rust. Accident damage is also an issue as not everyone respected the handling quite as much as they should. Be very wary of any suspect panel gaps and check for repairs that aren’t up to scratch. A blow-over can quickly make even a rough 911 appear smart at first glance. Rot can strike in the front wings around the headlamps and the trailing edge, but you really need to get underneath to check around the rear suspension mounts and inner wings. If you see any sign of bubbling just ahead of the rear wheels, above the sill line, expect significant rot. Also check the ‘kidneys’ – the panelwork to the rear of the door-shut. Rot here can be terminal, so ensure they are both solid.
ENGINE
These engines are tough, with the hydraulic timing chain tensioner a huge improvement over earlier models. However, 911s often cover huge distances, so check the service history to see if the recorded mileage can be verified. Any clattering from the engine is bad news and suggests a top end rebuild is likely to be required. Watch for blue smoke too, as cylinders can wear, especially if lots of short journeys have been undertaken. Check the service history for work carried out as well as stamps. Recent engine work is always a bonus.
Until 1987, the 915 gearbox was used. This can be very clunky in first and second, especially when cold. The later G50 gearbox is considered an improvement – spot it by reverse gear being next to first. It came with a hydraulic clutch too, so the pedal should be lighter. Once warm, either gearbox should allow quick, crunch-free changes.
RUNNING GEAR
The brakes should naturally haul the car to a quick halt with the minimum of fuss. The torsion bar suspension has little to go wrong, but worn dampers can make a 911 feel skittish and tired bushes can lead to clonking and vagueness. People are sometimes tempted to modify the height. They shouldn’t. The steering should be accurate and entirely free of play. Inspect the tyres. You want deep tread, not worn out rubber by a different manufacturer on each corner.
INTERIOR
Ventilation is a weak point, so make sure the air conditioning is working if fitted. Assume it isn’t working if told it has been disconnected. Check the electric windows too and make sure the heater can be turned on/off. Damage to the seats is rare as they are hard wearing, but that and wear on the steering wheel and pedal rubbers can be used to help gauge whether the recorded mileage is genuine.
OUR VERDICT
There is surely no better entry into 911 ownership than the 3.2 Carrera. It’s the final evolution of the original, tracing its roots right back to 1966. The 964 that replaced it was substantially different. So, if you want the classic Porsche experience, the 3.2 is a less expensive option to consider
PORSCHE 911 TURBO REVIEW
Ignored for years, the turbocharged 996 is the epitome of the usable supercar and remains affordable. Get one before they're out of reach.
Porsche 911 Turbo
The 996 series of 911s has long been considered the most unloved in the Porsche and classic car market, although that's changing.
Trying to get your hands on a 996 GT3, Gen II GT3 or GT3 RS for anything approaching affordable money is all but impossible today. A few years ago, 911 Turbos were available for as little as £15,000-£20,000, but all that will get you these days is a basket case, and prices are still rising. Entry for a decent one is in the region of £30,000-£35,000, with the best as much as double that, and expect to fork out even more if you can find an X50 power-upgraded car, a Turbo S or the 996's somewhat unhinged GT2 relative.
Having said that, embarking on 911 ownership could be just about the safest and most enjoyable place to put your money in 2016.
996 history
Marking a new dawn for the new millennium, the Porsche 911 Turbo arrived in 2000 to top the 911 line-up. Fitted with the revised headlights from the naturally aspirated 996 Carreras, the Turbo added 120bhp over the first generation 911 Carrera as well as its trademark wider body and pronounced rear wing. Being water-cooled the 996 generation was a radical change for the Porsche 911, even if the water-cooling that flat-six did so around an engine that remained unconventionally slung behind the rear axle.
The Turbo's dry-sumped, twin-turbocharged engine was significantly different to that of the 911 Carreras, the 3.6-litre flat-six being derived from the 1998 LeMans-winning 911 GT1. Porsche aficionados refer to it as the Mezger unit, which, thanks to a different oil gallery design and pressure-fed lubrication, suffers none of the infamous IMS (Intermediate Shaft) bearing that blights regular 911 Carreras.
Like its 993 predecessor, the 996 generation Turbo has two blowers and four-wheel drive. It uses its PSM to allow even 414bhp seem civilised, but its performance is very much in the realm of the supercar.
Unsurprisingly, press reaction to the 911 Turbo was rapturous. The Italian police got fed up with trying to chase down enthusiastically-driven cars at the launch event, opting instead to ticket the journalists at the launch hotel.
It wasn't just the press that loved it. Customers did, too, with Porsche upping its first year production run from 2500 to 4000 cars. Only a handful of diehard purists found fault and their voices have now been drowned out.
VITAL STATISTICS
Porsche 911 GT3Porsche 911 GT2Porsche 911 Carrera 4S
Engine3600cc/flat-6/DOHC3600cc/flat-6/DOHC3596cc/flat-6/DOHC
Power450bhp @6000rpm462bhp @5700rpm320bhp @6800rpm
Torque272lb ft @ 5000rpm457lb ft @ 3500rpm272lb ft @ 4250rpm
Top speed188mph196mph174mph
0-60mph4.7sec3.9sec4.9sec
Consumption20mpg15-18mpg25mpg
GearboxRWD,six-speed manualRWD, six-speed manual4WD, six-speed man/five-speed auto
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
- One of the biggest issues is corrosion around the turbos. They get wet and start to rot. It's about £1200-£1500 to sort them out. The exhausts also suffer, as do the heat shields.
- Many owners are tempted to modify their cars. The 3.6-litre block can easily cope with 100bhp more without work on its internals.
- One issue is the front radiators. They fill up with muck pretty quickly, causing corrosion. The solution is to get an air-line in there and blow out the debris; it's best done with the bumper off.
- While checking for debris, it's worth removing the scuttle panels on either side of the battery as water can collect - litres of it - if the drain holes are blocked. Wet carpets are a sign that the weight of water has blown out the bungs that seal the interior. If the carpet is wet behind the front seats, then the membranes on the doors have been messed with. As the alarm's under the passenger seat, you don't want moisture getting in.
- The 911 Turbo doesn't like standing idle, as brake discs corrode. Take the car for a run after cleaning to make sure they're dry.
- Given former low prices paid for 911s, it's not unusual to find cars that have been neglected. They will rot: the area behind the front wheels is vulnerable to rust, as are the sills. All the fluid lines can corrode. The drain lines in the turbos can block and replacement is around £1000. In extreme cases of neglect, the inlet lifters can fail, which is an engine-out job at £3000. It's easy to buy a car that looks fine, but could need £10k to get it up to scratch.
- The rear spoiler should lift at 70mph, but if it doesn't it'll cost £1000 for the Porsche kit to fix it. None of the DIY fixes seem to work for any great length of time.
- Bushes are fixed in the suspension arms. It should track straight and true. The bottom of the dampers can rot, but they're easily refurbished, while the top mounts wear - and creak - costing about £350 a side to sort before labour. Transmission is strong, but there can be teh odd leak - all are fixable. Tiptronic sometimes has selection issues, often related to an easily repaired microswitch. Manual clutches get heavy at the 80,000-mile mark.
- The engine is dry-sumped, and the oil level checked via the digital dash display. Keep an eye on it, as 911s like a drink. Check smokers immediately.
- Many people assume that the batteryis dead if the key doesn't open it on its blipper. It's often due to a neat sleep device, designed to save the key's power. Putting it in the door to open it, then in the ignition and pressing the button will reactivate it. Non-working memory seats are also likely related to the key's transponder.
OUR VERDICT
The 14 years that have rolled under its fat tyres since someone dropped no less than £86,000 on one have robbed the 996 Turbo of none of its excitement or ridiculous ability. It absolutely exemplifies the idea of a modern classic: a car you covet and dream of driving, yet which remains usable.
Unlike its 996 relations, there's not a great deal that goes wrong with it beyond the usual service and consumable items. The Turbo is about as sensible as any 200mph car can be. Thats not to say it'll be cheap to run, but there's no point skimping on care if you want to increase its value. So put aside £1500 each year, with the expectation of spending two thirds of that, and bank the remainder for any major jobs down the line. That, by any measure, is low-cost supercar ownership. Get one now, before there's a rush on.