The original Porsche 911 was first shown to the world in 1963 and marveled crowds with its sleek aerodynamic shape and rear-engined rear-wheel drive layout, similar to the much less sporty Porsche 356, which ended production in the same year. The earliest versions were fitted with a 2-litre 128bhp boxer engine, but by 1966 (a year after the 911 landed on US shores) customers were calling for more power.
Porsche answered with the introduction of the Porsche 911S model, which featured a 158bhp flat-six engine married to stylish Fuchs alloys. By 1967 the range was expanded to include a Targa model, which offered open top 911 driving for the first time. Rather than being a full convertible, the Targa was fitted with a hefty roll bar, a design addition that was kept largely due to oppressive US safety regulations.
The Neunelfer (as it became known in Germany) proved to be a huge sales success for Porsche, but it wasn’t until 1973 that the greatest 911 of them all came on the scene – the 911 Carrera RS, or Rennsport (race sport). It was the first time that the Carrera name had been used since the 356 went out of production, and was chosen to commemorate Porsche class victories in the Carrera Panamericana races, held in Mexico in the 1950s. Built to homologate the model for competition, the 911 RS utilised a 2.7-litre flat-six engine that was capable of producing 210bhp, with a Sport Lightweight version weighing a paltry 975kg thanks to thinner glass and steel over the standard Touring model. Overall, 1580 were made, smashing the 500-unit requirement to homologate the model for participation in the FIA Group 4 class.
A year later in 1974 Porsche introduced the 911 Carrera RS 3.0, a larger capacity fuel-injected model that upped power to around 230bhp, though still sharing a similar chassis to the 2.7 RS. Once again, the lightest materials were used, enabling the German firm to reduce the car’s shipping weight to only 900kg. The RS 3.0 proved to be a very capable sports car and scored a number of important victories on the racetrack throughout the 1970s. This model also formed the basis for the 911 RSR Turbo, which represented one of Porsche’s first forays into turbocharging – a route that would bring the tremendous success in future years, forming the basis of later performance 911 models.
As a general rule of thumb, the earlier the 911, the more collectable it will be – though the 2.7 RS model is the daddy of them all, with the prototype selling for $480,000 in 2008.
The main danger when buying one of these excellent sports cars is fakes – or ‘evocations’ as they’ve become known in the market place. Though practically indistinguishable from the real deal, these cars are worth considerably less and can be picked up for around £25,000.
Our advice? Invest in a lower powered 911T and watch its value slowly rise in line with the halo models. They’re still a barrel of laughs and will become much more valuable in years to come as the market becomes saturated with replica RS’.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1991cc/6-cyl/SOHC
POWER 130bhp@6100rpm
TORQUE 128lb ft@4200rpm
TOP SPEED 131mph
0-60MPH 8.3secs
ECONOMY 27mpg
GEARBOX 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Don’t let talk of galvanised bodies distract you. These 911s can – and do – rust. Accident damage is also an issue as not everyone respected the handling quite as much as they should. Be very wary of any suspect panel gaps and check for repairs that aren’t up to scratch. A blow-over can quickly make even a rough 911 appear smart at first glance. Rot can strike in the front wings around the headlamps and the trailing edge, but you really need to get underneath to check around the rear suspension mounts and inner wings. If you see any sign of bubbling just ahead of the rear wheels, above the sill line, expect significant rot. Also check the ‘kidneys’ – the panelwork to the rear of the door-shut. Rot here can be terminal, so ensure they are both solid.
ENGINE
These engines are tough, with the hydraulic timing chain tensioner a huge improvement over earlier models. However, 911s often cover huge distances, so check the service history to see if the recorded mileage can be verified. Any clattering from the engine is bad news and suggests a top end rebuild is likely to be required. Watch for blue smoke too, as cylinders can wear, especially if lots of short journeys have been undertaken. Check the service history for work carried out as well as stamps. Recent engine work is always a bonus.
Until 1987, the 915 gearbox was used. This can be very clunky in first and second, especially when cold. The later G50 gearbox is considered an improvement – spot it by reverse gear being next to first. It came with a hydraulic clutch too, so the pedal should be lighter. Once warm, either gearbox should allow quick, crunch-free changes.
RUNNING GEAR
The brakes should naturally haul the car to a quick halt with the minimum of fuss. The torsion bar suspension has little to go wrong, but worn dampers can make a 911 feel skittish and tired bushes can lead to clonking and vagueness. People are sometimes tempted to modify the height. They shouldn’t. The steering should be accurate and entirely free of play. Inspect the tyres. You want deep tread, not worn out rubber by a different manufacturer on each corner.
INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Ventilation is a weak point, so make sure the air conditioning is working if fitted. Assume it isn’t working if told it has been disconnected. Check the electric windows too and make sure the heater can be turned on/off. Damage to the seats is rare as they are hard wearing, but that and wear on the steering wheel and pedal rubbers can be used to help gauge whether the recorded mileage is genuine.
EXPECT TO PAY
Project £8000
Usable £12,000
Excellent £18,000
Concours £25,000
OUR VERDICT
There is surely no better entry into 911 ownership than the 3.2 Carrera. It’s the final evolution of the original, tracing its roots right back to 1966. The 964 that replaced it was substantially different. So, if you want the classic Porsche experience, the 3.2 is a less expensive option to consider.