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RELIANT RIALTO REVIEW
If you’re tempted to try a car that doesn’t have a wheel in each corner then here’s a practical choice that defies the jokers
Reliant Rialto
Introduced in 1982, the Reliant Rialto was effectively a revised version of the company’s famous Robin three-wheeler offering more stability at higher speeds plus improved MPG.
Design house International Automotive Design (IAD), responsible for the Alien concept car of 1984, plus work on cars including the Mazda MX-5 and Volvo 440, came up with the more aerodynamic wedge shape with its sloping front and squared off back. Other new features included rectangular headlights, a single large windscreen wiper, revised interior and a stronger fibreglass body. The Robin’s original 848cc light alloy engine sat in a galvanised chassis while several other components were inherited from its predecessor.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 848cc/4-cyl/OHV
POWER 39bhp@5500rpm
TORQUE 46lb ft@3500rpm
TOP SPEED 80mph
0-60MPH 17sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION 60mpg
TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed man
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODY TALK
While the fibreglass bodyshell reduces the prospect of corrosion, they are liable to accident damage so still require close inspection. Be wary of cars that have been abused in the name of fun too. Below the bodyline, even the galvanised chassis is liable to corrosion. Specific areas to examine include the A-frame that holds the front wheel in place, gearbox mounts and front uprights.
ENGINE AND MECHANICALS
Because they were so compact and light (total weight coming in at under half-a-ton), well looked after and unabused Rialtos will happily last for years. They are not difficult to work on and there is a good supply of secondhand parts available at reasonable prices to keep your three-wheeler going. Regularly maintained engines will enjoy long life though check for signs of overheating and the prospects of a blown head gasket. Four-speed gearboxes also perform well though check for signs of wear on second gear synchromesh. Brakes are generally good, while a weak clutch canfairly easily be replaced.
DRIVING LICENCE CHANGES
For a long while a motorcycle licence loophole made lightweight three-wheelers a very popular choice but EU regulations saw the driving licence legislation for three-wheelers changed considerably in January 2013 for new drivers. The most important changes from that date are that new drivers must be a minimum of 21 years of age (for tricycles over 15 kW), and require a motorcycle licence (category A or A1) to be able to drive them because they no longer fall within category B1. Drivers with existing full entitlement to drive B1 category vehicles gained before January 2013 retain that right.
ON THE CARDS
Owner cards were introduced by Reliant for the Rialto that included information on the vehicle plus warranty and service information details for dealers. Bagging one of these with your car would be a definite bonus.
OUR VERDICT
There was a big waiting list for the Rialto when it was first announced and it was a good seller for Reliant but despites its advantages it never equalled the popularity of the Robin that reappeared in Mk2 form from 1989.
Of the various Rialto formats available, the estate version provides the most practical choice. In 1985 a Jubilee Rialto model was introduced to celebrate Reliant’s 50th year in business.
Second generation Rialtos appeared in 1984 featuring a High Torque-Energy engine with high ratio rear axle. Despite the reduced power, 37.5bhp instead of 40bhp, it was capable of three figure speeds and fuel economy of up to 70mpg when cruising at 56mph.
Reliant three-wheelers have had to put up with endless jokes thanks to Del Boy’s Reliant Regal in TV’s Only Foolsand Horses and past Top Gear presenters’ desire to tip them over, but the Rialto does offer practical aspects that deserve more serious consideration.
These often overlooked three-wheelers offer economic fun if you treat them with respect. A project will cost you £500 and you will have to pay a premium for a concours example.
RELIANT SCIMITAR GTE REVIEW
Space, pace, but maybe not that much grace. Not that it’s put anyone off. Sporting three-door estates aren’t easy to come by – but this is one of the best.
Reliant Scimitar GTE Review
Born from the mad designs of the styling house Ogle, the Reliant Scimitar GTE was always going to have a curious life.
The blend of practicality and sporting appeal that makes the Scimitar such a useable and entertaining classic made it instantly desirable, while behind the wheel was a throbbing V6.
The smooth and torquey ‘Essex’ V6 engine that nestles in the nose had a decent turn of speed and relaxed cruising ability. The Cologne V6 made its way into the car in 1979, providing even more pace.
Grunt from either of the V6s is heart-poundingly fun when the mood strikes. The chassis is balanced, but plenty of wayward action can be had. The four-speed manual ‘box – especially with overdrive – makes the best of the power on offer though so that’s the one to go for if you prefer a more sporting and involving drive.
Being an estate, there’s plenty of space too. Passengers have loads of room, as does the luggage. Considering the room, practicality, and comfort on offer, the Scimitar is almost criminally undervalued. But that’s good news for buyers, and as long as you check the condition of the bodywork and interior there’s little to fear with this sporting estate. With such an appealing blend of attributes we like it a lot. You will, too.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 2994cc/V6/OHV
POWER 128bhp@4750rpm
TORQUE 152lb ft@3000pm
MAXIMUM SPEED 110mph
0-60MPH 12.3sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION 21mpg
TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
V6 V GOOD
Ford’s Essex V6 was used in the SE5, SE5A, SE6 and SE6A. It’s durable with regular maintenance so you’re really just looking for signs of neglect. Check for oil leaks, excessive exhaust smoke, and evidence of head gasket failure, and ensure the cooling system is up to scratch. And expect oil pressure of at least 40psi when warm – anything less could point to a worn oil pump drive. The fibre timing wheel was a weak point and most have been replaced with an aluminium item by now, but it’s worth checking, and don’t worry about tales of engine fires; it was a carburettor issue cured years ago, and as long as the fuel inlet pipe at the carb is secure – later ones were modified – it’ll be fine. In 1979, the new SE6B used the German-built Ford ‘Cologne’ 2.8-litre V6. These are generally reliable – and can see off more than 150,000 miles easily. Don’t worry about a rough idle – it’s pretty normal. Do worry about blue smoke.
CHASSIS ROT
Chassis rot is prevalent in these cars, as the chassis wasn’t galvanised. Examine the main chassis rails and outriggers, the seat belt mounting points, and around the fuel tank (including the tank itself) although the latter is hard to access completely with the tank in place. The roll-over bar running across the car and bolting to the central outriggers is another rust trap so check it thoroughly, and you should also pay attention to the area beneath the radiator and the spare wheel well in the nose.
GOOD BODY
Good news – the glassfibre construction means there’s no panel rust to worry about. Metal strengthening inserts in the SE5 shell can corrode and lead to cracks though. Every panel needs a thorough examination for cracks and grazing - concentrating on stress points such as hinges. It’s important to remember to check the paintwork thoroughly - a full re-spray is trickier and more costly than with a steel body. Watch for signs of micro-blistering, and ensure that a previous re-spray hasn’t been done to cover damage. Parts availability is generally good, but items such as window rubbers, rear bumpers on the ‘5’, and rear light units (shared with the Hillman Hunter) are scarce. You can spot a 5a by the reversing lamps incorporated in the light cluster rather than below the rear bumper.
GREASING TRUNNIONS
Trunnions need greasing every six months to avoid excess wear. Worn bushes can be an issue too and while not difficult to sort it will be labour-intensive. Generally though, the steering and brakes present few worries other than wear and tear and parts are cheap, but the suspension needs more careful checking. Remember to check the mounting points for corrosion as well.
CRUNCHY SHIFTS
The Borg Warner 35 automatic added from 1970 should be smooth-shifting but may be in need of a re-build by now so budget accordingly if shifts are jerky. The 4-speed manual ‘box can suffer from crunchy shifts and jumping out of gear. Overdrive was added from ’71 and improves cruising ability but check it cuts in and out as it should, and check for leaks in the clutch hydraulics.
PRICEY INSIDES
Interiors can get pricey – so condition is another important factor so check it carefully. A full carpet set can cost £264 alone. Ensure minor trim parts are present and correct and check the electrics too as poor earths and aged wiring cause a multitude of niggling problems, although the electric windows in a 5a were always slow. Other issues to watch for include broken front seat frames and excessive creaks and rattles that can signify a tired example.
OUR VERDICT
There’s something very alluring about a sporting estate. You like the sound, and the grunt of the V6. Plus it’s an estate – and its lines are reminiscent of a sports car. The juxtaposition between the three whets many people’s appetites and it’s easy to see why. Parts support is great, and they still offer phenomenal value for money.
CLASSIC RELIANT REVIEWS
CLASSIC OPEL REVIEWS
CLASSIC NSU REVIEWS
ASTON MARTIN DB9 REVIEW
The Aston Martin DB9 first broke cover in 2003 when it was unveiled at the Frankfurt Auto Show, and was intended as a grand tourer to replace the now dated Aston Martin DB7 – a car that left big shoes to fill. Designed by Henrik Fisker and Ian Callum, it shares styling cues with the rest of the Aston Martin models of the period, including the signature grille and flush-fitting door handles. Production of the new supercar began in 2004, and it was the first Aston Martin to be built at the firm’s Gaydon base.
The DB9 was a step leap ahead of the outgoing DB7 model in almost every respect, being constructed largely of aluminium and sharing its chassis with the DBS. This allowed the chassis to be twice as strong as that used in the DB7, but weigh 25 per cent less. The engine is a 6-litre V12 unit sourced from the Aston Martin V12 Vanquish and is capable of hurtling the latest iteration to 187mph in a dizzying 4.1 seconds. Early cars shared the same engine, but in a lower state of tune, producing 450bhp as opposed to the latest car’s 510bhp.
If top-down motoring is more your scene, then the DB9 Volante should be the car to go for. Still based on Ford’s aluminium chassis, it features extra strengthening to account for the rigidity provided by the coupe’s roof. Additional bracing was also added to the windscreen pillars and, in the event of a crash, two rollover hoops spring from the rear seats. Weighing 59kg more than the coupe model, the Volante was never going to have the same performance. In recognition of this, Aston Martin designed the suspension in a lesser state of tune to improve the ride quality. It was assumed the Volante would be for boulevard cruising, rather than out-and-out track action. The engine upgrades occurred at the same time as the coupe models.
Earlier cars are generally accepted to be not as good as later models, with many claiming that the suspension setup was greatly improved in later years.
Service history is everything with these cars – you will struggle to sell one with anything less than full service history from a main dealer. This means you must demand it when thinking of buying. You’ll want to see a full file bursting with receipts. Check for any signs that money hasn’t been thrown at the car – cheap or worn tyres are a dead giveaway. Don’t underestimate the cost of servicing either – check that its just been done.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 5935cc/12-cyl/DOHC
POWER 450bhp@6000rpm
TORQUE 420lb ft@5000rpm
TOP SPEED 186mph
0-60MPH 4.7secs
ECONOMY 17mpg
GEARBOX 6-speed manual
FIAT 124 SPIDER REVIEW
Perfect for some summer fun, we look at this stylish and peppy Italian drop-top
Chrome-bumper models are the most sought after, but all versions benefit from glorious Pininfarina styling
An intriguing alternative to the MGB and Alfa Spider, the Fiat was a Pininfarina design that was made for almost two decades. Proven mechanicals and pretty looks contributed to that longevity and with all cars built in left-hand drive, more than 80 per cent went to the USA. Regular updates kept things fresh, including the later fuel-injected 2.0-litre engines which added performance the smaller-engined models lacked
VITAL STATISTICS
Fiat 124 Spider 1800
Engine 1756cc/4-cylinder/DOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 116bhp@6000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 113lb ft@4000rpm
Top speed 116mph
0-60mph 9.6sec
Consumption 28mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Potentially hefty restoration costs make checking for rot a vital task. Take a close look at the doors, wings, and wheel arches as well as the inner wings, front suspension turrets, and jacking points. The floor pan behind the rear seats needs careful examination, but it’s the sills that probably need most attention – the three-piece construction adds vital strength and removing the cosmetic bolt-on outer cover is the only way to be sure of their condition. A check of the panel gaps and door shut-lines will reveal any signs of accident damage too. Watch for bodged right-hand drive conversions as well. Panels for early examples are getting rare – especially replacement bonnets – while doors aren’t always interchangeable between models. It’s not unusual to find incorrect items used as replacements.
ENGINE
The twin-cam engines are fundamentally strong with proper maintenance though it’s worth checking for blown head gaskets (‘mayonnaise’ under the oil cap is the giveaway), oil leaks and excessive exhaust smoke. Cambelts aren’t known for early failure but check the history to see when it was last changed. Carburettor models used Solex or Weber units and wear can cause lumpy running, while the Bosch fuel-injection system is generally trouble-free. A test drive will reveal any issues in this area. It’s worth checking for impact damage to the sump which sits quite close to the ground – even if the sump itself is okay, the impact can damage the oil pump within so a flickering oil light will need urgent investigation to avoid terminal engine damage.
RUNNING GEAR
Gearboxes that are allowed to run low on oil will lead to excessive wear and noise, while jumping out of gear can be a problem. Back axles are a weak point too – particularly on 2.0-litre models – so listen out for whines or clunks as re-builds can be time consuming and expensive. The suspension and all-round disc brakes aren’t really problematic, so very much a case of checking for wear and tear.
Worn bushes and an ineffective handbrake are likely to be the extent of the problems assuming the previous owner was generally conscientious. A seized idler arm can cause stiff or vague steering though. One area worth checking is the front crossmember which can corrode and crack, so clunks from the front end or wandering on the road should ring alarm bells.
INTERIOR
Interior trim parts for early cars are getting scarce, replacing the upholstery, carpets or door cards on most models is straightforward. Watch for splits in the top of the dashboard – normally caused by sun damage, which can be tricky to repair. Broken seat backs can also be a problem. Check for water ingress and leaking heater units that can lead to corrosion and ensure the hood and frame are undamaged. Electrical issues are likely to be caused by poor earth connections or a degraded wiring loom.
OUR VERDICT
Interior trim parts for early cars are getting scarce, replacing the upholstery, carpets or door cards on most models is straightforward. Watch for splits in the top of the dashboard – normally caused by sun damage, which can be tricky to repair. Broken seat backs can also be a problem. Check for water ingress and leaking heater units that can lead to corrosion and ensure the hood and frame are undamaged. Electrical issues are likely to be caused by poor earth connections or a degraded wiring loom.
FIAT UNO REVIEW
fiaThe Fiat Uno Turbo is potent, fun and ever so fragile...
Like many cars of its ilk, the Fiat Uno Turbo relied on forced induction to achieve its Golf GTI-rivalling performance, but the sophistication of its IHI turbo/Magnetti Marelli engine management installation set it apart from earlier rivals. Launched in 1985, it was also state-of-the-art in terms of its packaging – its Giugiaro-styled body had a drag co-efficient of 0.34, and its interior was the roomiest in its class. And thanks to big boost and 105bhp from 1.3 litres, it remains a great deal of fun to drive to this day.
VITAL STATISTICS
1985 Fiat Uno Turbo ie
Engine 1301cc/4-cyl/SOHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 105bhp@5750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 108lb ft@3200rpm
Top speed 122mph
0-60mph 8.3sec
Consumption 30mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Fiat has a horrendous reputation for corrosion, which is unjustified once we’re into the 1980s. Thanks to careful design engineering, the Uno is far less rust-prone than the car it replaced, the 127. That’s not to say it isn’t immune – rust can spring up anywhere underneath, so make sure you get it on a ramp for a close inspection. First port of call should be the floor seams – if these are lifting, the floor panels will need replacing. Also check the sills, lifting any plastic skirts for a good look.
Next, check around the fuel tank mounts, boot floor and spare wheel well. A full seam inspection is needed from below – they could be well undersealed, so do take extra care, and look for distorted or splitting seams. Other weak areas are the rear turret top mounts. While underneath, poke around the front inner wings and Macpherson strut turrets and suspension arms, which are all common corrosion areas. And there’s also the engine subframe, which is an absolute pain to weld in situ.
The body is more resilient. The windscreen scuttle and surround is a known weak spot, and tough to repair without removing the windscreen, while the doors and tailgates can rot quickly, especially if their drain holes are blocked. Finally, the sunroof surround and mechanism are rot-prone and difficult to fix.
ENGINE
The Uno Turbo needs an understanding owner who likes to change the oil regularly, preferably every 3000 miles. Fiat SOHC engines are tough, but the turbo places strains, which regular doses of semi-synthetic go a long way to alleviating. Engine life is around 120,000 miles.
Turbos need a close look, so check for white smoke when cold and blue smoke when hot. Check the turbo boosts as it should without too much bearing and wastegate noise. Early cars with an IHI turbo are more costly to rebuild than later Garrett-equipped cars (£400 vs £300). Also check all oil pipes feeding the turbo, and that all breathers and vacuum pipes are in good order. The front-mounted intercooler is also vulnerable to damage.
The fuelling system has been known to cause problems, especially with its injectors – and because of high under-bonnet heat levels, the fuel rail can corrode and become porous. The fuel pump needs to be in tip-top condition, and is located near the tank underneath the car – check it’s delivering as it should. Many owners have fitted secondary pumps.
Finally, ask when the cambelt was last changed, and how regularly it’s been done. These engines might be tough, but they demand OEM high-quality belts and need them changing every 30,000 miles.
RUNNING GEAR
Owners love to lower their Uno Turbos. However, if you’re looking at a lowered car, make sure it’s by no more than 30mm and has good quality springs and – more importantly – dampers (by Pi or Spax) fitted. Suspension is by Macpherson struts all round and most issues affecting handling precision are down to old bushes. Luckily there are plenty of uprated items to choose from, although popular polypropylene items can lead to a harsh ride. Strut braces sharpen the handling and improve steering precision.
INTERIOR
The main problem with Fiat interiors of this period is cheap materials. This, combined with the potential of water ingress from a leaking sunroof, can spell trouble. The first thing to look for is a sagging roofliner – the material lifts from the backing and is a pain to repair. Also, the seat and door trim materials wear (especially on the earlier car) and replacements are hard to find.
The plastic used on the dashboard is brittle, so make sure it’s all together; it will be difficult to find small trim pieces. Finally, check that all switchgear is operating, and that all warning lights and instruments work as they should. Although the wiring is of acceptable quality, bad earths are a real issue and will cause all manner of random problems. Don’t necessarily conclude that a non-working electric window is a broken motor, or that an ineffectual fan blower is a big fix – they could be down to dirty and corroded earthing points.
OUR VERDICT
With a 0-60mph of less than seven seconds and a top speed of more than 120mph, Fiat Uno Turbos still feel fast today. But the kart-style steering and surprisingly capable suspension mean it’s not just the speed that captures your attention. Of course, there are some downsides – supply of cars and parts are far from plentiful, and you’ll need to keep it garaged and tend it regularly. However, Turbo values are still quite reasonable. Best advice is to buy with care and go for an unmodified or lightly upgraded car.
FIAT 500 REVIEW
Fiat 500 Classic Car Review
The replacement for FIAT's much-loved 500 Topolino, the Nuova 500 debuted in 1957. A radical departure from its predecessors essentially pre-war design, FIAT's new baby featured unitary construction, an opening fabric roof and all-independent suspension while carrying its engine at the rear. The latter was an air-cooled, overhead-valve twin – the first such used by FIAT – and the gearbox was a four-speeder. Introduced in 1968 alongside the standard 500F, the deluxe Fiat 500L, while mechanically identical, came with exterior cosmetic enhancements and an improved interior featuring new instrument panel, seats and floor covering. An immense success for FIAT, almost 3,000,000 of these adorable little cars had been sold when production ceased in 1975. The 500 remains as popular today as it ever was.
Approach a classic 500 for the first time and you can't fail to be struck by just how small it is, with every part seemingly made in half scale. So does it feel just as compact on the inside? Well, yes and no.
You're certainly not going to find plenty of lounging room – it would be somewhat strange to expect otherwise – but despite the titchy external dimensions you rarely feel cramped behind the wheel, and as with the Mini extra passengers can be squeezed in without too much discomfort. Sliding back the sunroof provides an even airier feel.
What you’ll also notice straightaway is the pared-back nature of the cabin. There are motorcycles with more instrumentation and switches than this, but it doesn’t detract from the enjoyment in the slightest. Instead you can just revel in the delightful simplicity of the whole thing, free of the complication and fripperies that adorn many a modern car’s interior. Even the small, flat seats are more comfortable than they look over longer distances.
And the driving experience? Well it benefits from the same simplicity and sense of fun as the rest of the car, the tiny air-cooled twin threshing away behind you as you pin throttle to floor to extract the last ounce of performance. Yes the stopwatch tells you this is a very slow car, taking over half a minute to hit 50mph, but it doesn’t feel that way from behind the steering wheel as you’re simply too busy grinning at the sheer fun of the thing. The only fly in the ointment is the non-synchromesh gearbox, so it pays to have brushed up on your double-declutching skills, but the gearchange itself is accurate enough to allow you to make the most of the power available. The rest of the controls require no special allowances though; the steering is light and direct, adding to the sense of agility, while the drum brakes are powerful enough as long as they are in good condition. Ride and handling are pretty adept too, adding to the 500’s fun, chuckable appeal.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 499cc/2-cyl/OHV
Power 21.5bhp@4600rpm
Torque 22lb ft@3000rpm
Top speed 65mph
0-60mph 33sec
Economy 45mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The 500 rusts with the best of them so you’ll need to check every panel and seam. All of the usual spots need examining - sills, wheelarches, door bottoms - but pay particular attention to the front panel behind the headlamps; the rear engine lid; and around the front and rear screens. Inner and outer wings can disintegrate, and make sure you check the front luggage compartment focusing on the battery tray and the area beneath the spare wheel. Sourcing panels for the very earliest models and estate can be tricky too.
Rot in the floorpan can be a major issue on neglected cars - leaking fabric sunroofs won’t have helped here either, but they are cheap to replace - so make sure you lift the carpets and get the car on a ramp to be certain of condition. While underneath, check the state of the suspension mounting points, especially the rear springs, and make sure that crash damage hasn’t knocked the engine and gearbox out of kilter. And look for poor panel fit and filler-laden bodywork - high restoration costs means bodgery is rife.
ENGINE
The engines are tough little units but it pays to check for signs of neglect. Expect a few oil leaks - usually from sump and rocker cover gaskets - but these shouldn’t be too serious while excessive exhaust smoke points to an imminent rebuild. Correct operation of the engine cooling flaps is vital and erratic running or stalling can signify a unit with overheating problems - if left it will destroy the head gaskets, or worse the aluminium heads themselves. Check to see the flaps haven’t been wedged open to mask a problem. Worn timing chains aren’t uncommon while starting problems are often caused by a worn carburettor or distributor - failed ignition condensers can be a particular bugbear. The little twin benefits from regular plug changes too, using good-quality items. Giardiniera engines are laid on their side and cooling arrangements differ slightly, but otherwise the same caveats apply.
It’s also worth ensuring the engine is the correct one for the year as swaps are fairly common, including a change to the slightly more powerful unit from the Fiat 126. It's fine if done properly but it might upset the purists out there. The non-synchromesh gearbox is generally robust, but if it’s excessively noisy or jumps out gear budget for replacement, or a professional rebuild as it’s not an especially easy DIY task.
SUSPENSION
The suspension is a straightforward set-up, but it can suffer from a few issues. Aside from rusty mounting points you also need to check for corrosion or cracks in the rear semi-trailing arms, and for corrosion in the transverse front leaf spring. If the latter appears to be bulging in places, chances are it's rotten and at risk of breakage (regular lubrication can prevent the problem). Ask the owner or vendor about the greasing regime too as the front kingpins need lubricating every 1000-1500 miles and they’ll seize and fail if this is ignored.
STEERING
Vague steering or uneven tyre wear points to wear in the worm and sector steering box and/or idler arm, and if the steering feels stiff it’s likely to have been over-adjusted to cure play. Refurbishment is neither especially difficult nor expensive. The drum brakes are fine with regular maintenance, so if they feel spongy or particularly ineffective it’s likely that leaking wheel cylinders or seized adjusters are to blame. An overhaul is simple and cheap but they need proper setting-up.
INTERIOR
The interior is simplicity itself, so wear and tear will be immediately apparent. A re-trim is fairly straightforward then, but bear in mind that some early trim parts and dashboard components may be hard to source so finding one that’s complete and in working order is best. And on imports it’s also worth checking that any right-hand drive conversions have been done properly – get a specialist inspection if you’re not sure.
OUR VERDICT
If it’s performance you’re after you’ll need to look elsewhere, but if owning a fun and quirky classic floats your boat the 500 is almost irresistible. It’s not without problems though so you’ll need to buy carefully but a car as charming and characterful as this one will provide a unique ownership experience. It’s an appealing and very tempting proposition.
CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - FIAT 600
Fiat 600 Review
The Fiat 600 may seem like the less popular, uglier version of the Fiat 500, but this car had plenty of things going for it. The 600 started off with a 633cc 4 cylinder engine that was water cooled, whereas the 500 only had a 479cc engine without water cooling. U.K. sales were never that strong due to the phenomenal success of the Mini; however it was a strong seller in other parts of the world, as it was declared the best selling car of the 1960s in Argentina.
It was produced between 1955 and 1969 costing 590,000 lire. It is also credited as being the first rear engine Fiat ever. It had four drum brakes with a unique suspension set up with independent coil over shock absorbers.
The 600D was introduced in 1970, boasting a 767cc engine which boosted the top speed to a steady 68mph. The 600 always was a show stopper, especially when it was first introduced at Geneva motor show in 1955. But many people felt that it could be improved, which led to a number of iants.
Related cars include the Seat 600 which was exactly the same but made in Spain for the Spanish market, and the Zastava 750 which was made under license in Yugoslavia, which was slightly longer than the standard Fiat 600. The Seat 600 spawned an unusual 5 door iant, the 800. It featured front suicide doors and looked as though two doors had been welded onto the back of the current 600.
The 600 multipla was sold from 1956 to 1965 and managed to seat 6 people in a floor plan of just 50 centimetres. The back two rows could be folded flat to accommodate a large load space, or kept up to seat 4 or 6 people. The 600 Ghia Jolly was a multipla based convertible that managed to retain its six seater status, but with the added comfort of wicker seats.
Abarth took delivery of Fiat 600s in 1956 and began making them into Fiat Abarth 750s. The 750 included a modified 767cc engine with high compression pistons, a lighter flywheel and a new crankshaft. A larger capacity radiator was also fitted to help aid cooling. The 750 was capable of 0-60 in less than 20 seconds and a top speed of 81 mph. Abarth needed to make the car visually distinguishable from the 600 so added red stripes along each side, an Abarth Grille and Abarth wheel trims.
FIAT BARCHETTA REVIEW
Forget its Punto origins and the lack of a steering wheel on the right side – the Barchetta handles beautifully and offers a lot of classic roadster for the money.
We Brits might have snubbed the beautiful Barchetta en-masse when it was new – thanks to Fiat’s refusal to sell it here with right-hand-drive – but it now makes great sense an affordable 1990s sports car.
Despite undercutting Mazda’s MX-5 and the MGF when new the slower sales mean it’s now a much rarer sight in the UK, but once you’ve got used to the Barchetta’s LHD layout (which takes all of five minutes) you’ll be treated to one of Fiat’s best looking and best handling cars.
It was sold here in two stints – the original 1995-2002 cars, built by Maggiora before its bankruptcy that year, and then a facelifted model built by Fiat itself at its Mirafiori plant between 2003 and 2005.
Whichever version you go for the Barchetta is a grin-inducingly good drive – and you’d never get bored of looking at its pert, Andreas Zapatinas-penned proportions.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 1747cc/4-cyl/DOHC
POWER 130bhp@6300rpm
TORQUE 121lb ft@4300pm
MAXIMUM SPEED 120mph
0-60MPH 7.9sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION 27-33mpg
TRANSMISSION FWD, five-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
IS IT AN IMPORT?
The Barchetta’s LHD layout – and the predictably slow sales in the UK as a result – means plenty of buyers have imported cars, particularly from Germany and Holland. While there’s nothing wrong with these cars there’s a good chance they’ll have the instruments calibrated in KM/H and the incorrect lights – and don’t pay the premium UK market Barchettas fetch for one.
DOES IT SOUND LIKE A LONDON TAXI?
In 1999 there was a recall for a sticky control valve on the engine’s variable valve timing, which if left unrepaired both blunted performance and gave the Barchetta with an uneven, diesel-esque engine note. Check the history and find out if the work’s been done – and the engine should be smooth and eager to rev when starting up.
A GRAND OPENING
The slimline door handles are one of the Barchetta’s best stylistic features – but they are prone to failing with age, so check both carefully as replacement items can be tricky to source. It’s also worth checking the roof for signs of damage – if they’ve been folded on particularly cold days they can get damaged. Cars sold with hard top roofs go for a premium – typically around £700 – but look at them carefully for any signs of them letting in leaks.
WATCH FOR PRANGED CARS
The Barchetta’s body is galvanised so corrosion isn’t too much of an issue. If you see any rust setting in, particularly around panel caps or near the corners of the car, it could be a sign of poorly repaired accident damage, as are any uneven panel gaps or signs of overspray. Key places to check for signs of any crash damage are the inner panels under the bonet, the sills for straightness, the rear structure underneath the car and the inner structure of the boot.
HOW’S THE PAINT?
You’re more likely to see signs of stone chips or blemishes, particularly around the bonnet edge and the front bumper. They’re easily treatable if they’re minor cosmetic blemishes – and shouldn’t put you off buying one – but cars with parking-related dents that need replacement panels are trickier to sort out.
SEE RED OVER A MISSING KEY
Barchettas were sold new with a master key – distinguished by its red plastic grip, rather than the blue grip used on the car normally used when driving the car. These keys were used by Fiat dealers were used for recoding replacement keys and cannot be reordered – so view a car being sold without one with suspicion. Swap the battery over and you’ll need the master key for the immobiliser to allow you to start up again, so it’s a potential headache if you haven’t got one.
OUR VERDICT
While it might cost more than an MX-5 of the same age it’s better looking and due to their comparative scarcity in the UK far more likely to attract intrigued glances at classic events. It’s also big fun to drive – dismiss it as a Punto roadster at your peril – and the parts commonality with other 1990s Fiats mean that sourcing replacement mechanicals is far from tricky. Buy one that’s been looked after and carry on cherishing it – that way you’ll end up with a curvaceous Italian roadster before the rest of the UK realises what it missed out on and starts pushing prices up.
FIAT COUPE REVIEW
Classic Fiat Coupe Review
Launched in 1993 with a four cylinder 2.0-litre derivative of the Fiat Twin-cam, the Tipo-platform based Fiat Coupé was a hit. Later five cylinder and turbocharged examples only added to the car’s appeal, with the turbo the fastest front-wheel drive car of 1995. With edgy, ahead of its time styling by Chris Bangle, a stylish Pininfarina interior and a marvellous driving experience, it makes an excellent modern classic today. Want to buy into the Fiat Coupé experience? Read on.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine 1998cc/5-cyl/DOHC
Power 145bhp@6100rpm
Torque 137lb ft@4500rpm
Top Speed 132mph
0-60mph 8.9sec
Economy 25mpg
Gearbox 5- or 6-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Bodywork
Watch the underbonnet scuttle panel for corrosion; a known weakspot. The sills usually have stonechip protection, but if this has worn and stones have damaged the paintwork, blisters can start and the sills can become vulnerable. The exhaust tailpipe rusts where the chrome trim is spotwelded to it, and the trim can fall off. And watch around the rear lights for issues too. We’ve heard of issues with subframe mountings and radiator mountings, and the rear arches aren’t immune either.
Engine and Gearbox
Even Fiat dealers weren’t always aware of the servicing schedules for the Coupe, so make sure you read the service history. A full Fiat history is desirable, but if it’s been care for by a specialist that’s even better. Exhaust manifolds can crack, and replacement could cost up to £500 to be done properly. Cambelts need changing regularly – every 72000 miles/6yrs on 20vs and every 30000 miles on 16vs. Check 20v cars for clutch slip – replacing a clutch is a fiddly job and isn’t cheap. It’s easier to do it while changing the cambelt – so best to combine the two if they need doing. Leave it on tickover after the test drive and check for blue smoke – this will indicate worn turbo oil seals.
Running Gear
As 65% of the weight is over the front end, suspension can wear from as low as 40000 miles. Listen for clonks that could be failing wishbones, track rod ends or ARB droplinks. Also check the brakes by braking hard from 70mph. The steering wheel shouldn’t shudder – a slight even vibration may indicate grooved and uprated discs. Don’t panic about brakes squealing when warm – all Fiat Coupes suffer from this and it’s normal.
Interior
Cloth was standard on early and low spec cars, with leather available throughout in beige and tan. Leather is more desirable, especially when twinned with the optional air conditioning system. This will often need re-gassing, but be sure it’s not a faulty system! The grab handles in the back can shear, and while it’s meant to have a rear ashtray they’re usually missing – double check this! Check the heated mirrors, too – they operate on the rear demister circuit, repair is difficult and replacement expensive.
Electrics
Fiat Coupés come with three keys in three different colours. Blue denotes a "service/valet" key, silver the normal key and red the master key. If your car is missing the red key, don’t buy it. This master key contains all the ECU coding crucial for setting new keys and tying them into the ECU. Check it’s a real red key – turn the ignition on and off, leave the key in, and turn the ignition on. The word CODE should remain lit on the dash. A new keyset and ECU – if you can source it – won’t be cheap. Also check the standard alarm by locking the car on the remote, leaving it two minutes, and then attempting to open with the key. If it doesn’t sound, something’s wrong.
VERDICT
Why should you buy one? Because you want a daily driver that’s separate, that looks like nothing else and has one of the best front-drive chassis in the business. You’d like to tell the world you own an Italian sportscar, yet practicality means you need the surprisingly commodious boot and the occasional rear seats. Or maybe it was the car you dreamed of as you climbed the dreary Vectra-led company car ladder in the mid 1990s. Regardless of why you want it, now’s the time to buy.
FIAT 126 REVIEW
Cheaper and quirkier than the Beetle, 2CV and Mini, this Italian peoples’ car costs less than £2000...
There’s never a dull moment when driving any 126 – it may lack the earlier 500’s inherent cutesy charm, but the driving experience is very similar, from the wheezing, rattly engine, through to the darty handling and bouncy ride. Don’t expect Mini Cooper levels of performance – two cylinders and 704cc are purely for city slicking – and while it will do 70mph, you really don’t want to be caught out on the M6 in one surrounded by lorries, coaches and low-flying Audis. No, the 126’s home is the urban cut-and-thrust, where its tiny size makes it a breeze to thread through traffic and probably the easiest car there is to park. You’ll take forever to get through a tank of petrol, and all-round visibility is excellent. Do indulge in the odd B-road blast, though – you don’t need big speeds to have big fun in one of these.
VITAL STATISTICS
Fiat 126
Engine 704cc/2-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 26bhp@4500rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 36lb ft@2000rpm
Top speed 72mph
0-60mph 36sec
Consumption 55mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
All 126s rust pretty much anywhere. Polish cars were built from better steel and had generally improved build quality, so are well worth seeking out. Obvious key areas to look out for include the sills, jacking points and foot wells. The battery tray lives next to the spare wheel well, too, which will often cause severe rot.
Doors, especially on later cars with plastic trim, are particularly prone to rot. The scuttle is another known rot-spot, but much more likely to be a problem on the BIS models rather than the air-cooled cars. Pretty much all panels are available, new, from various sources.
ELECTRICS
Ill-fitting quarter lights or leaking sunroofs are often the cause of damp floors. Check also the headlight and windscreen surrounds – these are good first indicators as to general condition.
RUNNING GEAR
All 126s have a straight twin layout and four-speed gearbox, and servicing is vitally important. The centrifugal oil filter often gets overlooked as it is awkward to access. On the whole they are so basic that most problems are not catastrophic, but they do tend to suffer niggling maladies. They are noisy, but shouldn’t clatter once warm. The starter motor is very exposed, often leading to problems. Cleaning the contacts is probably all that is needed.
126s do not like to stand inactive for long periods of time and will respond in kind with a variety of problems. Sticky accelerator problems are common, but very easily sorted. Bad starting and vapour locks can often be remedied with a one-way fuel valve. Fuel tanks tend to corrode internally and fuel pumps are another popular issue – electric fuel pumps are a common modification. A service will sort most maladies but, as with all old cars, you’ll lose them if you don’t use them.
All 126s have a straight cut first gear with a reverse idler, so first and reverse are always a little whiny. There is no synchromesh on first gear so double de-clutching is essential. If there are any rumbling noises from within the gearbox, then it’s likely to be damaged.
Difficulty selecting gears due to a sloppy stick is probably caused by a worn flexible linkage. Replacements
are available for less than £5. Gearbox oil seals can be problematic, but are also cheap
to replace.
BRAKES
The brakes lack discs or servos, but they are sufficient to bring the car’s sub-700kg to a halt. King pins and the flexible driveshaft couplings need regular greasing to avoid wear. Rear swing arms are a rot spot. If the car is leaning, it will probably need the transverse leaf spring on the front suspension replacing. Uneven wear on the front tyres will probably mean worn track rod ends.
INTERIOR
The interior is very basic, so with the notable exception of the BIS rear seat, pretty much everything is available. Driver’s seats wear badly, but have easily-replaced covers. The headlining is often missing as are the parcel shelves on the BIS. Headlights are dim, and the standard electrics are not really sufficient for upgraded bulbs. RHD headlight units are no longer available.
OUR VERDICT
The 126 is a brilliant little starter classic, with cheap insurance, good parts supply and an enthusiastic owners club. Great handling, and small enough to nip through traffic, it is perfect for a bit of inner city or twisty back road nostalgia. Italian production ceased in 1979, with all subsequent 126s being built in Poland – avoid post-94 cars, which rot horrifically.
FIAT X1/9 REVIEW
Classic Fiat X1/9 Review
It brought mid-engined motoring to the masses, but a quarter of a century after the last X1/9 was made, the number of survivors has dwindled alarmingly.
Until the arrival of the Fiat X1/9 in 1972, mid-engined sportscars were exotic and unattainable for anyone of modest means. However, while this sporting Fiat was the first mid-engined car to be built in significant numbers (in a 17-year production run, 163,750 were built), it never made much of an impact in the UK. Here we were wedded to the idea of low-tech, front-engined sportsters from British marques – the notion of an affordable sportster with its powerplant in the middle just didn’t cut much ice.
By the time the classic British sportscars had been killed off, the hot hatch revolution was underway, and once again the X1/9 was overshadowed. It didn’t help that the mid-engined Fiat wasn’t anything like as well built as most of its potential rivals.
Despite its exotic looks, the X1/9 took all of its mechanicals from existing Fiat models. The 1300cc engine and four-speed gearbox were borrowed from the 128; thanks to their being mounted in the middle of the car, the handling was a joy. This wasn’t lost on motoring writers of the time, who also loved the economy, comfort and excellent crash resistance. But they weren’t so impressed by the fact that flat out, the X1/9 could just about muster 100mph; the four-speed gearbox also meant a busy engine on the motorway.
The answer came in 1979, when Fiat fitted a 1.5-litre OHC engine and five-speed gearbox more usually seen in the Strada. The result was a 110mph top speed and more relaxed cruising. Unfortunately, the car grew huge US-spec impact bumpers at the same time, which didn’t please the purists. By 1982, production had been farmed out to Bertone, which introduced the high-spec VS, complete with leather trim, two-tone paintwork and electric windows. But the writing was on the wall thanks to the arrival of the Toyota MR2 in 1984, and by 1989 the X1/9 had been consigned to history. Now, it’s reckoned that fewer than 500 roadworthy examples survive in the UK.
VITAL STATISTICS
X19 1500
Engine 1498cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power (bhp@rpm) 85@6000
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 87@3200
Top speed 112mph
0-60mph 10.6sec
Consumption 37mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
By far the biggest issue that faces X1/9 owners is keeping corrosion at bay, as the factory-applied rustproofing was terrible. Replacement panels dried up soon after the X1/9 went out of production; now, all that’s available are costly, hand-made (in the UK) parts that take six months to produce.
Rot can strike anywhere, but any corrosion tends to be obvious rather than hidden. The front and rear wing bottoms, sills, door bottoms and wheelarches are the first areas to go, along with the front and rear valances. The doors rot badly to the point where reskinning isn’t an option; also check the windscreen surround, the engine and luggage compartment lids plus the rear shock absorber towers. Nose panels can rot spectacularly, just like the panel at the base of the windscreen; repairing the latter is particularly likely to be involved.
ENGINE
Engines notch up 100,000 miles easily, if maintained. The 1300 and 1500 engines were borrowed from the 128 then the Strada, and they’re easier to access for servicing than you might think. All X1/9 engines have a cam belt that should be replaced every four years or 36,000 miles, while setting the valve clearances is awkward as it’s done with shims. The most likely issues are oil leaks from between the camshaft carrier and cylinder head, while head gasket failure can be an issue with 1300 engines.
The engine’s location means it’s susceptible to overheating if the cooling system isn’t kept in tip-top condition. There’s a thermostatically controlled electric fan (check it works) while the nose-mounted radiator corrodes and gets covered in debris. The alloy engine can corrode internally if anti-freeze levels aren’t maintained, while the steel pipes that run from the radiator to the engine can corrode inside and out; they need to be flushed through occasionally. This latter job can easily cost £600 to fix. Thermostat housings go brittle with age, then break; many used ones have been bodged with putty, so beware. Also beware of the draining system having been drained, so it doesn’t leak – it has been known.
RUNNING GEAR
The running gear is generally reliable. Brake callipers can seize though, along with handbrake cables on sparingly used cars – there’s no servo to go wrong. The handbrake clips on the rear calipers also seize up, and as the callipers are fragile, it’s easy to damage them when working on them. Modern brake upgrades are available for £700-£1000 – they fit straight on.
SUSPENSION
The balljoints in the front and rear suspension often wear; the former are easily replaced, but the latter are costly as they’re integral with the lower wishbone. Four-speed gearboxes tend to last well, but the five-speed units are much weaker, suffering from particularly poor synchromesh on second and third.
INTERIOR & TRIM
Low-quality interior trim pretty much guarantees problems, as the carpets tend to fall apart. Split seat trim is also a fact of life for X1/9 owners – especially on the driver’s side. The 1300 got cloth trim, the 1500 vinyl while the Lido featured Alcantara trim and the VS has leather-covered seats – none last very well. Unsurprisingly, replacement interior trim has been unavailable for years, which is why a costly retrim is the only long-term solution.
Electrical problems are common, with the headlight relays and diodes often failing. The same goes for the electric windows – and if the glass is raised and lowered by hand instead (as most are), the operating cables can break. Repairs to the windows are a real pain... Modified electrics are particularly likely to cause grief, so check for anything having been spliced into the system. Another weak spot is the alternator; it’s a poor-quality Marelli unit that’s positioned to pick up water and dirt all too easily. The result is complete failure, but Bosch and Lucas alternatives are available; they’re much more reliable.
OUR VERDICT
The X1/9 represents a great buy if you rate driving fun above practicality. It’s unusual, great value and running costs are manageable too. But if you’re not to rue the day you bought your sporty Fiat, you need to track down a really good example, and that’s not as easy as you might think.
FIAT 127 REVIEW
Fiat 127 Review
As early as 1947, Fiat's genius chief engineer Dante Giacosa had patented his transverse engine design. Unfortunately, chief test driver Carlo Slalmano hated front-wheel drive cars and hindered their development at Fiat. But he left the company in 1962 and Giacosa, also prompted by Issigonis' Mini, resumed developing his FWD transmission package.
This resulted in the Autobianchi Primula, which, in 1964, sported a transverse engine whose crankshaft was in the same axis as the gearbox: simple, reliable, cheap to make and very compact. At last convinced, Fiat's leaders decided to make a wider use of it. In 1969, two cars appeared that pushed the formula forward: the 128, a small family car, and the A112, a city car. Then came project X1/4 - the future Fiat 127, whose development had begun in 1968.
It was simply penned by Pio Manzoni as a two-box coupe, replacing noth the 850 and 850 Sport. It was as roomy as a Ford Escort whilst boasting a decent boot. But it was with its remarkable handling that it stood out. It also had excellent performance, frugality and low price. Fiat had unintentionally found the very recipe of a supermini. the state-of-the-art 127 was crowned 1972 CoTY, and a hatchback was offered as an option that year.
The 127 immediately became a sale hit, which led all Fiat's European rivals to copy its packaging: Audi's 50 and Ford's Fiesta, in order of appearance.
VITAL STATISTICS
Engine: 903cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power: 47bhp@6200rpm
Torque: 46lb ft@3500rpm
Maximum speed: 87mph
0-60mph: 15.0 sec
Fuel comsumption: 37-43mpg
Transmission: FWD, 4-spd manual
FORD ANGLIA 105E REVIEW
Rakish style and bags of character – Dagenham’s darling has huge appeal...
If you’re in the market for a small 1960s saloon, you wont go far wrong with an Anglia 105E. The 997cc four-cylinder engine is frugal and easy to work on, and while it won’t set the world alight with its performance, it makes the car a usable everyday classic that can easily hold its own in modern traffic in most conditions.
The engine is surprisingly capable, but needs to be revved to get the most out of it. This makes the 105E feel very peppy and engaging to drive. The gearbox provides a smooth and assured gear change – four speeds being adequate for everything other than extended motorway driving. The brakes take a bit of getting used to, but easily slow the Anglia thanks to its low kerbweight, which will also leave few owners wishing for power steering – perfect for those who find larger classics difficult to manage.
All-round visibility is terrific, with the large windows affording the driver an unimpeded and panoramic view of the road ahead. The 105E is great all-rounder and a real charmer, which explains its ongoing popularity since 1959.
VITAL STATISTICS
1960 Ford Anglia 105E
Engine 997cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 39bhp@5000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 55ft lb ft@2700rpm
Top speed 73mph
0-60mph 26.9sec
Consumption 41mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Wings will rust at their trailing edge, and if they are gone, then the A-pillar behind is likely to be in bad shape, too. Rear arches are usually fine, but rear wings will crumble between the wheelarch and lower bumper. Behind the front numberplate is a water trap, so feel behind for loose rust. The lower front valance will corrode at either end; rear valances are connected to the crossmember by four pop-rivets and will rust in cars that aren’t kept clean. Doors will start to decay around the frame and in the centre below the rear quarter light. Replacement panels can cost up to £400, but repair sections are cheap. Front and rear wings are rarely beyond repair.
Bonnets and boot lids will start to rust around their edges, with boots also rusting around the hinges. Boot floors will also corrode, so make sure you lift up the carpet and have a good poke around. Carefully check the area where the boot floor meets the rear panel – there is a drainage hole here that easily becomes blocked. The front headlights will rust at their peak, and rear lights can go if dirt and salt collects behind the chrome work. Windscreens rarely pose a problem, and rear screens stay dry for the most part, so both should be fine.
Sills will eventually succumb to corrosion – starting at the front, then the rear, then the middle. If sills are a mess in the middle then it is a sure sign the rest is in poor shape, perhaps poorly repaired or filled. Rust on the outer sills will also suggest that the inner membranes are rotten, so budget for replacement parts. If the sills seem sound, be sure to check that the drain hole to the front of the sill is clear – if not, it will lead to problems in the future.
ENGINE
The997cc engines will last for more than 100,000 miles, whereas 1.2-litre engines do well to make it to 70,000 miles without a re-build. Start the engine from cold at a fast idle and listen for any knocking. Take off the top of the rocker cover and start the engine from cold – walk away if it throws out oil or any amount of smoke. There’s no synchromesh on first gear on 997cc engine cars, so be aware of this if you’re taking a test drive. Gearboxes are rock solid – some have been known to make it to more than 325,000 miles – but you should make sure gear changes are precise and positive.
RUNNING GEAR
Front and rear crossmembers will eventually give up at either end where dirt collects, so make sure you take a good look behind each valance. Though not terribly expensive to repair, it is beyond the capability of the average amateur mechanic, and can be tricky to put right. Inner sills and jacking points will rust with time, but gearbox tunnels should be solid. Lift the rear seat squabs and look at the floorpan underneath. This is just above the rear jacking points, so should give you some indication of rust problems and previous repairs.
BRAKES
If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.
INTERIOR
Interiors are basic and practical, with the majority being trimmed in vinyl. Some cars were finished in leather, but these attract no real price premium over standard interiors, so don’t pay extra for it. Full interior sets are easy enough to source and relatively cheap to refurbish if not in top condition.
OUR VERDICT
The 105E was the final Anglia and the result of the refinement and innovation of a model that had started life before WW2. Produced from 1959, the 105E sported rakish US-influenced styling that British cars had lacked up to that point. Gone were the smooth curves of the 100E, replaced by a backward slanting rear window and prominent headlamps. Testing in the wind tunnel resulted in a more shallow bonnet, with subtle tail fins added to give the impression of speed – a bold design choice.
The 105E also received a 997cc OHV straight-four engine, a long overdue addition to the Ford range. The engine produced 39bhp, a slight improvement in performance, but a giant leap in reliability.
Throughout its eight years of production, Ford built just over one million 105Es – 191,752 of these were in its first year, smashing Ford’s volume production record at the time. As well being an affordable car of the people, the 105E was also used extensively in motorsport. Ford was aware of the desire to tune cars long before their rivals, even producing a performance kit which cost £13.
The Anglia 105E has established a reputation for being the ideal starter classic, and it’s a reputation that is well deserved. They are very affordable, and almost any job can be attempted in your garage at home. A relatively plentiful supply of cars means parts are easy to come by, too, and a strong club following means there are plenty of summer events to keep you occupied. Huge popularity in the modifying community has resulted in a raft of performance upgrades to suit every budget and ensured that quality engines are still easy to get hold of.
As with most cars of this age, you can quickly spend a lot of money on restoration, so it pays to buy the best example you can find. It’s better to buy a car with proven history from a club member, as some project cars will be hiding serious problems and are likely to be much more expensive to repair than you budget for.
FORD CAPRI MK1 REVIEW
The Ford Capri is a true cult classic. This is reflected by the huge volume of parts and accessory dealerships still active, and the sheer volume of active owners clubs. Much of this status is due to the Capri's styling, appearing more American than European – the car had a really bold image. Ford had had such success with the Mustang that it decided Europe needed its own ‘personal coupe’. It followed the same ethos as the Mustang, with cheap prices and lots of scope for personalisation – it appealed to countless people with different budgets.
From appearances in Only Fools And Horses (being Del Boy's sporty, weekend number in a hideous lime green), a starring role in The Professionals (with Bodie and Doyle driving 3.0L versions at break-neck speeds, mostly side-ways), a regular spot on Minder (a Ford Capri was often the car of choice for Terry McCann) to John Wayne jumping Tower Bridge inthe film Brannigan, it was everywhere. Then there's Ford's immortal ad-line when marketing the Capri; "The car you always promised yourself".
In development the Capri was known as the Colt; however Ford were forced to change this as the trademark was held by Mitsubishi. In searching for a new name Ford settled on Capri, which they lent from an earlier, unsuccessful model of theirs, the Ford Consul Capri 335. The first Ford Capri Mk1, was released in 1969 and was basedon the Cortina and produced in the UK at the Dagenham plant.
The Capri was intended to be an affordable car, so the initial range included 1.3L and 1.6L engine derivatives. Although the 1.3L may have seemed underpowered at the time, sales in Britain rose substantially during the mid 1970s.
With the Mk1 Capri having already sold over 400,000 units, 1972 saw the release of the Mk1 facelift, known by some enthusiasts as the Capri 'Bis'. The main changes included were a more comfortable ride, new rectangular headlights and the Kent engines being replaced by Ford Pinto lumps.
Production of the MK 1 Capri stopped in 1974, with the Mark 2 replacing it in January 1974.
VITAL STATISTICS
Ford Capri MKI 1600GT
Engine 1599cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 93bhp@5400rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 102lb ft@3600rpm
Top speed 100mph
0-60mph 12sec
Consumption 28mpg
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The Capri's construction is so straightforward it’s crude. That’s good news if you want to buy, restore or maintain a Capri, because you can see everything easily and you repair it without difficulty – apart from the poor panel availability. It’s unlikely you’ll find a Mk I Capri that hasn’t seen the welder’s torch, but as long as any work has been done properly, that’s no problem. Putting right somebody’s bodged corrosion repair is bad enough, but if the car has been shunted at any point, the chances are that things won’t line up.
Carefully check all panel gaps – the Capri might not have had especially tight shut lines, but they should at least be even.
The first port of call with the magnet is around the headlamps, followed closely by the trailing edge of each front wing.
Corrosion can be hidden within the outer sills, so don’t expect it to be obvious – if new sills are needed they are £35 per side and fitting/painting them is straightforward. Rear wheel arches and quarter panels rot badly, but repair panels are available for around £30. If somebody else has already done the work, make sure the outer panel is attached to the inner – bodges are common.
The best way of making sure that everything is what it seems, is to press hard on the sills to see if there’s any give. If the interior is a bit tatty, you can probably lift the carpet enough to press from the inside as well – if the car is really rotten this should give the game away. The front windscreen rubber is prone to leak at the offside lower corner, allowing water to penetrate the windscreen pillar, A-post, sills and footwell – damage may be done before a leak here is noticed.
While you’ve got the doors open, take a look along the underside – they often corrode from the inside out. The A-posts also rust badly, so make sure they’re not flexing as the door is opened – because the doors are long they’re also quite heavy. Their weight is enough to cause wear in the hinge pins. Hinge pins are available for just a few pounds – try Ford to track one down. A check on the front valance is also a good idea as they hold the water and rot badly at the point where they join the wings.
It’s time to lift the bonnet to check those MacPherson strut tops. Thankfully they’re not as rot-prone on the Capri as most other Fords. If the plates have been replaced they should be smoothed in (except on 3-litre cars) and if they are original the production ID number will be visible as it was pressed into the wing top here. The inside edges of the bonnet also rot away if left, so ensure the metal is sound all round the panel – you’d be lucky to track down a replacement bonnet.
ENGINE
The least desirable Capri – as well as the rarest and most highly stressed – is the 1300. Using the same Kent engine but with a few more nags available is the 1600 which, like the 1300, was also available in GT form– this meant twin-choke Webers and four-branch manifolds with consequent power gains. The first sign of trouble will be noisy valve gear, normally down to worn rockers, cam followers and the camshaft itself – by that stage the engine needs a top-end rebuild.
Worn timing chains also cause problems – listen for rattle from the front of the engine – but compared with all these potential maladies, it’s worn rings and bores that will blow the biggest hole in your wallet. Fumes from the oil filler cap and blue smoke from the exhaust will give the game away – a bottom end rebuild lies in store.
The Kent engine is very easy to work on and a rebuilt unit can be tracked down for around £600. Alongside the Kent unit sat the V4 engine of the 2.0-litre cars.
Whereas the Kent cars were disliked because of their lacklustre performance, the V4 cars were shunned due to poor reliability.
The oil pump drive can fail without warning, scrapping the engine in the process; the fibre timing gear can also break up, with much the same result. Steel timing gear can be fitted instead, at around £60 for the parts.
Another common V4 malady is worn bearings for the balancer shaft, which helps to reduce engine-generated vibration. Without this shaft the V4 is a harsh unit, but once the shaft’s bearings go it’s even harsher, so it’s easy to tell if new parts are needed just by starting the engine up. While you’ve got the bonnet up, check for oil and water leaks from blown head gaskets. Fixing those isn’t tricky or expensive, but if the bottom end is rumbling or the valve gear is noisy, steer clear. Parts for the V4 power plant are the hardest to source – go for a car with a more common engine.
Capris with the Essex V6 engine are the most sought after, despite the V6 being based on the same design as the V4. It didn’t need a balancer shaft, which helps things enormously and it’s far less stressed – but the oil pump drive can still pack up with no warning and the fibre timing wheel can still disintegrate. The V6 also has a tendency to overheat, especially if the radiator has been allowed to get clogged up with silt. Blown head gaskets and even cracked cylinder heads are symptoms to look out for so check for oil and water leaks in the engine bay along with white emulsion on the underside of the filler cap.
The final engine fitted to the Mk I Capri is the Pinto (replacing the Kent unit in September 1972). True to Ford, this powerplant had a built-in self-destruct feature: it had a habit of eating camshafts because of a lack of lubrication. The problem was a spraybar fitted under the rocker cover, which was supposed to squirt oil onto the camshaft lobes. But the smallest bit of dirt would block it up. Sometimes it took just a few thousand miles before the camshaft ran dry. The spraybar’s design was revised years ago, which helps things, and as long as the oil and filter have been changed regularly, all should be well. If in doubt a new spraybar can be fitted – it’s not difficult and a new part costs under a fiver. If a new camshaft is needed, the work is easy enough to do but parts for the Pinto engine are more expensive than for the other Ford powerplants.
Capris with the Essex V6 engine are the most sought after, despite the V6 being based on the same design as the V4. It didn’t need a balancer shaft, which helps things enormously and it’s far less stressed – but the oil pump drive can still pack up with no warning. It’s worth looking out for any tuning that’s taken place. There are plenty of reputable companies selling bits to upgrade Ford engines, but there are also lots of cheap parts around that tend to reduce power instead. Bigger carbs and hotter camshafts are par for the course, but gas-flowed heads and free-flow air filters are also common along with supposedly more free-breathing exhaust systems. All these need to be checked and if somebody has taken the usual downdraught Weber route to up the power, make sure it’s all set up properly. It often isn’t.
ELECTRICS
The electrical system is generally reliable. If the loom does need some TLC you’ll have to get the original one rebuilt, as the special connectors that Ford used are no longer available. When it comes to new instrumentation and switchgear, you’ve had it. It’s very rare to find anything at auto jumbles, but luckily, what was fitted is pretty reliable.
Sometimes the headlight switch can get too hot because there’s no relay, so if you want to preserve the life of the unit, slot a relay into the circuit.
Make sure the lights are in good condition, because they’re notoriously pricey to replace, and in the case of the headlights, hard to track down. Pre-facelift cars were fitted with the same headlamps as an Allegro, and you’ll pay £85 for a new one.
Later Capris were fitted with headlights which are even harder to find, and if you can source one you’ll have to fork out over £100 for it – make sure you don’t buy a European import, as they dip the wrong way. Rear lights aren’t any better – early Capris used Escort units which crop up occasionally at around £100 each. But light units for post-facelift cars are extremely rare now and cost even more if they do materialise.
RUNNING GEAR
All Capris were fitted with rack and pinion steering, which doesn’t give problems other than the usual worn parts such as track-rod ends and split gaiters. There’s also a flexible joint in the steering column, and this can wear – if it does, the steering will be vague and suffer from shake. The knuckle has a leather cover which is riveted onto the arm – if you’re struggling to find a new one, a Mk III one will fit.
The suspension is also pretty straightforward, with MacPherson struts at the front that may leak, but they're usually reliable.
Make sure any test drive takes the car over bumpy roads and listen for knocks from worn bushes in the strut top or the track control arms. If these latter bushes have had it, your best bet is to fit new arms rather than renewing the bushes. A new pair of track control arms costs £45 and they’ll come with new bushes already.
The Capri’s rear suspension is also pretty straightforward, with leaf springs that sag after a while (£125 to replace) and shock absorbers that leak. Fixing either set up is easy enough and if the rear dampers need renewing you shouldn’t need to spend more than £35 on a new pair. Cars built before September 1972 were equipped with twin radius arms to keep the back axle in place while later cars were fitted with a single-piece anti-roll bar instead. Whichever system, there’s a good chance the bushes will have seen better days – but at least new bushes are cheap and easy to replace.
One of the great things about the Capri is its transmission, with a slick gear change and strong final drive. The synchromesh is tough and unless the engine has been really highly tuned, the transmission will cope quite happily with plenty of power and torque. Any Capri transmission will take 100,000 miles if looked after and at this mileage the worst that’s likely to materialise is worn synchromesh on second gear and vocal gearbox bearings. Accelerate hard in each gear and see if the car jumps out of gear. If it does, the gearbox has had it and you can bank on having to spend around £250 on a replacement unit. Try to pull away in second gear and see if there’s any judder. If there is, there’s either oil on the clutch or there are weak engine/gearbox mounts. If there’s a whirring noise when you press the clutch down, the clutch release bearing’s had it.
There aren’t many automatic Capris around. The transmission doesn’t have any inherent problems, but still check the transmission fluid, which should be red, although if it’s brown that’s okay. Black means trouble ahead.
Check the fluid by parking the car on a level surface and running the engine until it reaches normal running temperature. Select ‘P’ and allow the car to idle for two minutes, then with the car still idling remove the dipstick and check the level. The difference between the low and full marks is one imperial pint. Also make sure it’s not hanging onto the gears for too long. Automatic gearboxes can be reconditioned for around £150.
Diffs don’t usually give any problems until at least 100,000 miles. The first sign of impending expense is whining. If it does need renewing, a new unit typically costs around £200 on an exchange basis. Also listen for clonks from worn universal joints. They’re cheap to replace, but the job’s fiddly.
If there’s a whine and steering wheel shake at some speeds, it’s likely to be worn half-shaft bearings which cost around £20 per side to replace. If the diff is the problem this is more difficult as the early Timken axle needs special tools to line it up. So it’s really a job best left to the experts.
BRAKES
Aftermarket wheels with extra wide tyres are a common fitment – fine if they fit properly. Make sure there are no clearance problems and if the car looks overtyred, be especially wary of worn suspension and brakes that have been given a hard time.
The self-adjusting mechanisms fitted to all Capris can seize up if the car hasn’t been maintained properly or has been left standing for long periods. But they’re not inherently unreliable so they should be trouble-free. All Capris were fitted with disc brakes at the front, but the brakes aren't up to the job on V6 models – do be careful on the test drive. Servo assist was an option on all cars below a 1600 GT; above that it was standard.
Capris fitted with an automatic gearbox had larger pads and shoes, so if the brakes are due for a service and the car has a slushbox, make sure you don’t try to fit a braking kit for a manual car.
INTERIOR
New interior trim is the Holy Grail of the Mk I Capri owner – even used stuff in good condition is pretty much impossible to find. The only real answer is to get stuff retrimmed. Seats sag and the stitching comes apart, so getting a decent trimmer is the best thing to do. Interior panels will also need to be refurbished (not easy) and the same goes for the dash surround – which can be retrimmed, but it’s tricky as so much work is required.
The original carpets were moulded to fit the shape of the floorpan – nowadays any new floor coverings will be made from flat carpet so won’t fit as well.
It’s the same story for exterior trim, with bright work rarely for sale. Badges get lost or discoloured but most are replaceable for about £15 each. Original chrome wiper arms may be a problem and bumpers rarely turn up. When they do they’re over £100 but be aware that the early Mk I only had one number plate light aperture in the bumper – look closely as bumpers for sale may have two.
OUR VERDICT
When the Mk I Capri was current, there was a model to suit every pocket. But nowadays there simply aren’t enough to go round and you may not be able to find your first choice of spec.
Whereas it used to be the Mk III that everybody wanted, it’s the earliest cars which are now in favour. There’s no sign of that trend changing, so if you’ve been hankering after a Capri for a while, now is the time to start tracking a good one down.
You can make life easier by joining the Capri Mk I Register, but there are still relatively few cars out there, so you can’t be too choosy.
FORD CAPRI MK2 REVIEW
Classic Ford Capri Review
1974 saw the release of the Ford Mk2 Capri. Although mechanically very similar to the Mk1, the 1973 oil crisis forced Ford to make some changes. The car was a more everyday affair now, with a shorter bonnet and 'hatchback' boot design to make the car more practical. Although the hatchback did give it superior boot capacity, some rigidity problems were encountered during development and extra metal was needed to fix this problem. This added even more weight to the increasingly heavy car.
Aesthetically the Capri MK2 is a clear descendent of the MK1. The UK engine range remained the same as the post-September 1972 Capri MK1, with one concession. The Corsair V4 engine was replaced with an American-spec Pinto engine, producing 98bhp.
In addition to current range, lots of new trim levels were developed, including the 1600GT and 2000GT, which both had more powerful engines and folding rear seats. A Ghia trim level also appeared, featuring special alloy wheels, halogen headlamps, tinted glass and ‘Rialto’ seat upholstery.
Capri production in Britain stopped in October 1976 due to a drop in sales in America. These sales drops would have led to less production in Cologne, and economics suggested that centralising production at Cologne would make production more cost-effective.
Official reasoning for pulling out of this market was due to the strong Deutschmark making the car more expensive. With America buying one-third of Capris made in Cologne, this must have been devastating. Production of the Mk2 Capri ceased in 1978.
FORD CAPRI MK3 REVIEW
Classic Ford Capri Review
James Hunt, Ayrton Senna, Grant Mitchell,Terry McCann and of course Bodie and Doyle all drove one, and for Derek ‘Del Boy’ Trotter the ‘Kap-ree’ was the car of his dreams. Yet while the furore surrounding the Capri – in all its iterations – had dwindled by the launch of the MkIII, the British market really took to the car allowing it more than one reprieve in production. The heady days of the 1960s ‘Car you always promised yourself’ were over, yet there was still a profit in the car for Ford of Europe management, albeit a small one. 1981 production amounted to only 34,658 cars, with 22,000 of those bought in Britain during ’81 and fewer than 20,000 in 1982. Put that into context, and only 30 per cent more Capris sold in that year than Escorts were sold in August ’82 alone! So Ford’s task was to take the failing MkII and (cheaply) inject Capri character so buyers would perceive the car as desirable once more. According to the press briefing on 2 March 1978, Ford engineers had ‘achieved a major service breakthrough with the third generation Capri’ which was ‘the product of a young team of Ford Engineers and designers who cannot keep their hands off the car’. Giving the Ford Capri II a crisp look involved few panelwork changes to the monocoque, save for wings and front panel.
The bonnet pressing was slightly altered for the quad lamps. Wraparound bumpers and louvred grille brought the car into line with the new Ford aerodynamic look featured in the Model Range catalogues of the era. It was a cheap restyle, but right on the money to get the punters excited about Capri again. Much talk was made of the aerodynamic gains from these admittedly minor changes, but the public were becoming aero-aware, and Ford’s marketing pitched into the market at exactly the right time to capitalise on it.
But the Capri 3.0 was fighting a rearguard action as the 1980s opened. Younger upstarts such as Golf GTI were snapping at the heels of the old-fashioned coupé. And in the large-engined, higher price bracket, genuine homologation specials such as Chevette HS and Talbot Lotus Sunbeam were priced only a stretch higher in the showroom. But for an ageing demographic of owners used to and happy with rear-wheel drive, the Capri fitted the bill. It did for Ford too – the reticence of older buyers to ask for discounts – brought to the showrooms a discerning, wealthy buyer.
- Ford’s new ‘aerodynamic’ Capri was launched on 2 March 1978
- The MkIII was referred to in development as ‘Project Carla’
- In the ’80s Ford concentrated on the UK market as profit margins were higher
- Ford’s Halewood factory closed in ’76 so only Ford Cologne built MkIIIs
- The most expensive MkIII Capri was the £14,985 Tickford Turbo
- Total Capri production amounted to 1,886,647 examples