Aston-Martin

ASTON MARTIN DBS REVIEW

An Aston Martin DBS requires careful buying - let CCFS be your guide...

 

Settling into the cabin of a DBS makes you appreciate the bespoke nature of an Aston Martin. It’s very wide, a lucky accident of the car’s design originally being created as the four-door luxury Lagonda saloon, the DBS being shortened but not narrowed to create a coupé body shape. Individual stitches in the dashboard covering, seats and soft furnishings are a reminder that here is a car created without the uniformity of mass production. The Tadek Marek-designed six-pot burbles into life, yet needs warming thoroughly before you can drive the car. An Aston isn’t a car to thrash from cold. 

Cars of this era, size and power that run on wire wheels are unusual, yet those wires also add a vintage aura to the car. Brakes and steering combine to allow sufficient control for cruising, but the car’s happiest gait, which is over the legal maximum, is helped by the over-riding weight, at which pace the dampers soften slightly and give astonishing ride comfort. True, the de Dion rear axle can be upset by poor road surfaces and the all-round discs can feel wooden, but are easily cured. Get out and drive it! 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Aston Martin DBS

Engine                                    3995cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  282bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 290lb ft@ 4500rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                  7.2sec

Consumption                            13mpg 

Gearbox                                    5-spd manual/3-spd auto
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Wire wheels fitted to DBS Astons are close to the combination of weight and performance they can bear. Check for broken spokes and spline wear as on any wire-wheeled car. Original wheels may have already been replaced, but avoid cheap new-looking replacements. Assure yourself they are up to the car’s weight and performance specification, or budget for a conversion to DBS V8 alloys or upgrade to a premium make of current, new wheels from an established maker such as Borrani. 

Examine the extensive glazing for traces of delamination on the windscreen. Check rubbers for traces of overspray. Paint repairs are often harder to detect on higher-end, bigger margin cars, especially when values are accelerating. Yet fresh paint may only be disguising deeper problems not adequately repaired. 

Check for accident damage and panel misalignment. The front cradle carries engine, front suspension and steering along with the bodywork extremities. The weight of the car means the rear should also be checked for details showing crash damage. 

The rear wheelarches are often where the first traces of corrosion can be seen, so check for recent work to cover dodgy arches.

Check the chassis and bodywork minutely for corrosion. Examine for rot in the sills, pedal box and rear suspension mounts. Look for signs of electrolytic corrosion between steel components and alloy skinning over the whole car inside and out. 

Blocked drain holes can lead to damage within doors, sunroofs and boot area. Also check for corrosion inside the fuel filler doors. Corroded cars are, as a general rule, best avoided – buy the best car your budget allows.

 

ENGINE

Straight-six engines should have colossal oil pressure. You should see approaching 100psi on the gauge at 3000rpm. The units have a reputation for overheating and, as an alloy motor with iron liners, can be prone to sludging, especially around the rear three cylinders. This is owing to a slack spot in the water circulation. Coolant should be fresh and clear, with adequate antifreeze to protect the block from internal corrosion and sludge build-up. 

If you are looking at a car with a re-built motor, check the invoices to see if the liners have been lifted for any cleaning.  

Beware cars described as ‘needing a tune-up’. If an owner has not had the wherewithal to keep it in tune, then he’s probably skimped elsewhere, or alternatively, there is something much more major wrong with the engine than a mere tune-up could fix. Engine oil should be fairly fresh, with no carbon build-up internally.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Chrysler Torqueflite three-speed auto gearboxes can be simple and moderately cheap to repair, but they don’t like long periods of inactivity as the brake bands can delaminate from the backings when condensation forms in the gearbox from short runs. The dog-leg ZF five-speeder can be noisy in use, though seldom fails, as it is extremely strong. 

And finally be aware that clutch wear can be high, so consider that when looking over the car. 

 

BRAKES

A known DBS weak-spot concerns the differential and its seals. The inboard rear brakes can cause localised hot-running, which thins the diff oil and can cause leaks. The seals also degrade with the proximity of the brake heat, compounding the problem. Leaking differential seals can be prohibitively expensive to repair, and running with low oil levels can shorten final drive life drastically. 

 


INTERIOR

Interior trim generally wears well, and is made from good quality materials. However, beware re-trims which are not as well made as the original. Repairs are simple, though costly. Electrics, instrumentation and switchgear are simple, although electric windows may be slow or sticky in operation. 

 

OUR VERDICT

For too long, the DBS has been an unloved, formerly glamourous car hijacked by the newer, twinklier, and more coverage-worthy V8 in all its iterations of be-spoilered, high performance furore. And as the oldest car from that era of Astons, it has lagged in value and been seen as a curio by restorers and classic fans alike. 

Only now is the car getting the recognition it deserves as the sire of a new generation of Astons for the 1970s and beyond. And for that reason, good DBSs should be prized beyond compare for their design purism and relative affordability. Yet buyers beware. A DBS will cost as much to restore as a DB6, practically to the penny, yet be worth a fraction when complete. So next time you see a beautiful DBS on the road, remember, it’s only the truly heroic DB fan who will be running one. 

William Towns’ wonderful shape for the DBS captured the late 1960s enchantment with clean crisp lines and an intelligent-looking update to the Aston grille design incorporating quad-lamps. It was a radical departure compared to the curvy shape of the earlier DB6, and instantly made the older cars look out of date. The 1967 introduction of the DBS was hailed for its de Dion rear suspension, a departure from the DB6, but the additional heft of this larger car quashed performance, so the straight-six DBSs are more leisurely performers than forebears that are fitted with similar spec motors. As a classic, this is less of a problem, as you’re not buying into the latest performance motor car, but accessing what the marque stands for. 

Prices are strengthening and, should you want one, now is the time to buy a captivating GT with full-sized seats giving touring capability for four. And doesn’t the shape look pure? The suave good looks of the 1960s lived for a long time as the updated V8, yet the earlier car is still the purest. Buy right and it might still reward with appreciating value, too. 

 

ASTON MARTIN DB9 REVIEW

The Aston Martin DB9 first broke cover in 2003 when it was unveiled at the Frankfurt Auto Show, and was intended as a grand tourer to replace the now dated Aston Martin DB7 – a car that left big shoes to fill. Designed by Henrik Fisker and Ian Callum, it shares styling cues with the rest of the Aston Martin models of the period, including the signature grille and flush-fitting door handles. Production of the new supercar began in 2004, and it was the first Aston Martin to be built at the firm’s Gaydon base.

 

The DB9 was a step leap ahead of the outgoing DB7 model in almost every respect, being constructed largely of aluminium and sharing its chassis with the DBS. This allowed the chassis to be twice as strong as that used in the DB7, but weigh 25 per cent less. The engine is a 6-litre V12 unit sourced from the Aston Martin V12 Vanquish and is capable of hurtling the latest iteration to 187mph in a dizzying 4.1 seconds. Early cars shared the same engine, but in a lower state of tune, producing 450bhp as opposed to the latest car’s 510bhp.

If top-down motoring is more your scene, then the DB9 Volante should be the car to go for. Still based on Ford’s aluminium chassis, it features extra strengthening to account for the rigidity provided by the coupe’s roof. Additional bracing was also added to the windscreen pillars and, in the event of a crash, two rollover hoops spring from the rear seats. Weighing 59kg more than the coupe model, the Volante was never going to have the same performance. In recognition of this, Aston Martin designed the suspension in a lesser state of tune to improve the ride quality. It was assumed the Volante would be for boulevard cruising, rather than out-and-out track action. The engine upgrades occurred at the same time as the coupe models.

Earlier cars are generally accepted to be not as good as later models, with many claiming that the suspension setup was greatly improved in later years.

Service history is everything with these cars – you will struggle to sell one with anything less than full service history from a main dealer. This means you must demand it when thinking of buying. You’ll want to see a full file bursting with receipts. Check for any signs that money hasn’t been thrown at the car – cheap or worn tyres are a dead giveaway. Don’t underestimate the cost of servicing either – check that its just been done.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 5935cc/12-cyl/DOHC

POWER 450bhp@6000rpm

TORQUE 420lb ft@5000rpm

TOP SPEED 186mph

0-60MPH 4.7secs

ECONOMY 17mpg

GEARBOX 6-speed manual

 

ASTON MARTIN VANQUISH REVIEW

We don't need to tell you how awesome the Aston Martin V12 Vanquish is, but we will anyway...

Unveiled in 2000 as Aston Martin's flagship vehicle, the Aston Martin V12 Vanquish was based on an earlier project known as 'Project Vantage'. The V12 Vanquish was initially met with mixed reviews by press and dealers, with criticism mainly aimed at there being no option for a manual gearbox.

Instead the Aston Martin Vanquish was only available with a 6 speed clutchless sequential manual transmission. Aston did address these criticism's toward the end of the Vanquish's run by releasing the Vanquish Ultimate Edition, which saw the V12's paddle shift gear box replaced by a manual along with having an upgraded, bespoke interior.

 

2005 saw the release of the Vanquish S, which had originally debuted at the 2004 Paris Motor Show. The S model came with uprated power, with Aston's 5.9-litre (5935cc) V12 lump now pushing out 520 horsepower and capable of reaching 62mph in a little over four seconds before going on to a top speed claimed to be 200mph. The Aston Martin Vanquish S also included, as standard, the Sports Dynamic Pack, an optional extra on previous models. This pack contained sportier suspension, brakes and steering, adding more credibility to the somewhat heavy Vanquish.

 

Despite rumours and the release of 2 Vanquish based concepts (the Zagato 2 seater roadster and the Bertone Jet2, both shown at 2004's Geneva Motor Show), Aston never built a Vanquish roadster in answer to competition from the likes of Ferrari's 550 Barchetta. Instead those interested in buying a convertible Aston Martin are catered for with the V8 Vantage Roadster and theDB9 Volante.

In 2012 the Vanquish named was brought back for Aston Martin's volume-car flagship and successor to the DBS. It produces around 565bhp from its 5.9-litre V12.

ASTON MARTIN V8 VANTAGE REVIEW

Looking for a chunk of brute force? The Aston Martin V8 Vantage is the classic car for you...

Could the Aston Martin V8 Vantage be the UK’s first supercar? It certainly has supercar credentials; a high price tag, blistering performance, exclusivity and a pedigree as strong as any other. But it’s a supercar done the British way, by getting a normal car and making it blindingly quick. As such, it’s got a decent amount of space, a boot, a well laid-out dashboard and all those things that Italian contemporaries sacrificed in the pursuit of sheer driving pleasure.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 5343cc, V8, OHV

Power – "Adequate"

Torque – "Adequate"

Top Speed – 168 mph

0-60mph – 5.2 seconds

Economy - 11mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual

  

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

There were few changes made to the V8 saloon in order to create the shell of the Vantage. The bonnet vent and grille were both blanked off, with a second pair of lamps mounted above the bumper. The front chin spoiler was considerably revised, while the bootlid and rear wings saw the introduction of a duck-tail spoiler. Later cars were rather more toned down in their approach (barring the standard Vantage Volante!), with the Prince of Wales Volante specification being favoured by many. Most V8s will have been well cared for, garaged, and water will rarely have been allowed to gather – so rust shouldn’t be an issue. Beware though that sills and suspensions mountings have been known to vanish, so check under the stainless sill covers to make sure they aren’t hiding any horrors. The bodies on these were aluminium, so beware of a reaction between the panels and the steel substructure. Beware also that while light, aluminium is hard to weld and panels such as the front wings are welded on – restoration is not for the home mechanic!

Engines

The Tadek Marek-designed 5.3-litre V8 is an understressed unit, even in Vantage form. And it is important to consider the standard spec, for Vantages sent to America never received anything more potent than the standard American low-compression unit; vital for emissions legislation. These cars are known as "cosmetic" Vantages, and some have found their way back across the Atlantic. UK-spec Vantages had rather more power, but the principles remain the same – while reliable in service, these are handbuilt cars with handbuilt engines (bearing the name of the man who built them, no less!), so if anything does go wrong it will need specialist attention to put it right. Cylinder heads need a rebuild every 60000 miles with new exhaust valves and guides, but the bottom end is good for up to 150000 miles.

Running Gear

Check that the diff has had regular oil changes and doesn’t leak between them. Vantages used Chrysler automatic gearboxes or, more commonly, a ZF five-speed manual. Neither of these poses any trouble to the would-be owner, and the brakes and suspension are reliable too. In terms of running gear, there’s little to alarm, but as with the engine and bodywork anything that may need doing will need to be done by a specialist.

Interior

Pre-1978, the Vantage’s interior was classic Aston Martin fayre; a black dashboard, lots of leather and a sporting ambience. The Series 4, launched in October 1978 (October introduction led to the phonetic name of Oscar India), did something the Juglans trees never managed; it sprouted sufficient walnut for the door cappings and dashboard overnight. The leather in all cars will be expensive to retrim – especially so, for Astons should only receive the best of hides – Oscar India cars with a leather headlining are reputed to contain the skins of nine cows in total. The wood can’t be refurbished on the cheap either. Buy the best interior you can afford if you want to save money later on.

VERDICT

Who doesn’t secretly want an Aston? Leaving aside the 007 connection, they’re British, slightly brutish, and in the best possible taste. They’ve been likened to the Ford Capri, but if this is the case then they’re the Capri Bryan Ferry might own – more subtle, more restrained, less of a loudmouth, and less likely to scream their own abilities from the rooftops. On top of that, it’s an old Aston – and they can only appreciate. They aren’t cheap now but they won’t get cheaper.

ASTON MARTIN LAGONDA REVIEW

Dramatic on the outside and space-age within, we get to grips with the Aston Martin Lagonda...

 

The razor-sharp styling certainly raises your expectations as you approach the Lagonda, and the cabin doesn’t disappoint either. It’s superbly appointed and a feast  of high quality wood and leather, and although  the driving position is a touch more snug than the exterior would lead you to believe, there is plenty of space for passengers. 

Turn the key and the Lagonda reveals its most intriguing feature – the digital instrument displays. Even with all the modern touches of today’s cars, these still have the ability to delight those new to the big Aston and make every trip a real experience. Overall comfort and refinement are excellent making for an ideal mile-coverer, and despite its size the Lagonda handles well.  There’s plenty of performance on offer too, thanks to the big V8, and motorway cruising is effortless. Light steering and powerful brakes inspire confidence, and comfortable seats will have you covering huge distances – as long as you can stomach the fuel bill!

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Aston Martin Lagonda

Engine                                    5340cc/8-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  280bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 360lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                143mph

0-60mph                                  8.8sec

Consumption                            12mpg 

Gearbox                                    3-spd auto
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The sheer size and complexity of the Lagonda’s body shell means thorough checks are vital. It’s a steel sub-structure covered with aluminium panels, so there is plenty of scope for problems and huge bills if significant rust repairs are needed.  The three-piece sills need particular attention as rot can spread to the outriggers and B/C pillars – replacement could approach five figures per side if things are bad, so a specialist check (preferably using an endoscope camera) is recommended.

The hand-beaten alloy panels can be soft and thin in some areas, making them susceptible to dents. You’ll also need to check for any signs of corrosion between the panels and the steel structure, which manifests itself as a white powder. Unless there has been a recent bare-metal re-spray, it’s likely that most cars will suffer to some degree.

ENGINE

The 5.3-litre V8 is considered pretty bullet-proof, but evidence of regular maintenance is essential. Any signs of oil or coolant leaks should be treated with caution, particularly if they come from the engine block drains – the alloy block has steel liners which can move and a rebuild doesn’t come cheap (think £20k for a top-quality job). Rattles from the top of the engine could signify worn camshafts or timing chains, while correct anti-freeze levels are vital to avoid head gasket failure.

 

ELECTRICS

Later cars – sometimes referred to as Series 4 models – received slightly rounder-edge styling with conventional headlights and are reckoned to be less rot-prone. The pop-up lights of early cars look good, but ensure they work as repairs can be tricky and costly. The same applies to the electric release for the boot, bonnet, and fuel flaps. 

The electronic dashboard is the main talking point of the Lagonda, and it’s no real surprise that it can pose problems. The set-up changed over the years, using both LCD and Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) displays, and there was even a multi-lingual voice synthesiser at one point. Tracking-down faults with the wiring or the various pipes or senders can take plenty of time and money, so be wary of any issues. Finding parts isn’t always easy so making sure the displays and touch-sensitive switches are working correctly is time well spent, and it pays to get an expert view before you buy.  Some owners converted to analogue dials but it’s not a great solution – the digital arrangement can be made to work with the right expertise.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The Chrysler Torqueflite automatic ‘box is tough and shouldn’t give problems, likewise the rear axle – a limited slip GKN or Salisbury unit depending on model. Again any issues will be clear on the road.

BRAKES

Neither the brakes nor suspension give trouble unless neglected, though the inboard rear discs are susceptible to oil contamination and corrosion. They’re costly to change, so check them carefully. Worn bushes are generally the extent of any suspension issues, though it pays to check the Koni self-leveling system at the rear is working properly.  


INTERIOR

The interior is a mixture of top quality hide and wood in most cars, and that means a careful check of condition. A full re-trim will cost thousands, so inspect every inch of the cabin for any damage to the upholstery. Instruments aside, there were more electrical gadgets than on other Astons – electric seats and the like – so ensure it all works.

 

OUR VERDICT

Few cars will garner attention like a Lagonda so it deserves consideration purely on style alone.  A word of warning though – finding a good one and maintaining it won’t be cheap, and you’ll need professional expertise on both fronts.  Tread carefully, buying the best you can afford. 

ASTON MARTIN DB7 REVIEW

One of the most beautiful Aston Martins is now also one of the most affordable. We consider how to spot a great example of the glorious DB7...

 

The DB7’s 'Jaguar XJS' lineage means that the coupé isn’t exactly echoingly spacious inside, so it’s imperative you check you fit behind the steering wheel before you commit to a purchase. The central transmission, in particular, cuts back significantly on elbow room, which can be especially annoying on cars fitted with a manual transmission. Opting for the convertible (‘Volante’ in Aston-speak) obviously helps in this respect, although the pay-off is a degree of old-school scuttle shake on the move.

The rarer early six-cylinder supercharged cars are prized among Aston cognoscenti for their super-pure styling (slim lozenge-shaped indicator/sidelight units rather than the later, much larger, round affairs), and you’ll never, ever tire of the supercharger’s purposeful whine, especially as it provides lag-free urge irrespective of which gear you’re in.

And yet, you really cannot beat a V12. A Vantage sounds menacing even at idle, but wind one up – a nice long tunnel is best for this – and the resultant howl will make your scalp prickle and your arms break out in goosebumps. It’s properly addictive.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

ASTON MARTIN DB7 VANTAGE

Engine                                    5935cc/V12/Quad-OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  420bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 400lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                185mph

0-60mph                                  5.2sec

Consumption                            21.4mpg 

Gearbox                                    6-spd manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is by no means unheard of on a DB7, but it’s a relatively rare sight and is almost always indicative of either shoddy maintenance by a previous owner, or the undesirable consequence of the car having suffered heavy impact damage at some point. If the car you’re looking at is bubbling in any of the usual places, then you can be pretty much assured that previous accident damage has been repaired on the cheap and using pattern parts, which doesn’t bode well for how the rest of the car has been treated.

Evidence of frontal damage should also start alarm bells ringing with respect to the front of the chassis – anything other than painstaking expert repairs to this area is guaranteed to destroy the handling and steering feel, and to cause the car to eat through tyres at an alarming rate as a result. It’s always worth checking that a car hasn’t been officially written off and then later salvaged, too.

Less seriously, the low-slung nose section is vulnerable to stone-chipping which, if rectified by a ham-fisted previous owner using nothing more than a touch-up pen and crossed fingers, then the metal beneath (initially composite, then steel from 1997 onwards) will have suffered accordingly.

As with the body, the main thing to check for underneath any DB7 is evidence of accident damage – misalinged chassis components put the steering geometry out of whack which, in turn, increases your tyre wear. Uneven tyre wear, especially on the inner edge, is the main giveaway here. Remember, too, that DB7s are particularly sensitive to incorrectly inflated tyres – too much or too little will also see off those expensive tyres at a rapid rate of knots.

 

ENGINE

Depending on the model, lifting the bonnet of a DB7 reveals either a 335bhp straight-six engine furnished with an intercooled Eaton supercharger or, on the Vantage, an all-alloy 420bhp 5.9-litre V12 that was developed by Cosworth. Ignore the bar-room pundits who sneer at the fact that the latter is, in essence, two Ford Duratec V6 engines welded together – it’s a glorious-sounding engine that, thanks to its relatively humble origins, is refreshingly uncomplicated. Any of the common afflictions that can show up on a regular car, then – blue or black exhaust smoke, a mayonnaise-like substance on the oil filler cap – apply here. Likewise, anything other than silky-smooth running and a V12 howl should cause you to look elsewhere.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes on six-cylinder cars are either by Getrag (five-speed manual) or GM (four-speed auto), with the V12s warranting either a Tremec T-56 six-speed manual or a five-speed ZF auto. None of these systems will throw its toys out of the pram if the car has been well cared-for and driven sympathetically, so you should walk smartly away from any examples displaying graunchy or sloppy manual shifts, or which clearly has contaminated automatic transmission fluid (clues: it’s discoloured and stinks to high heaven). 


INTERIOR

The DB7’s interior wasn’t universally praised at launch – yes, there’s lots of leather and wood, as befits any Aston Martin, but there’s also plenty of Ford parts bin switchgear, too. This isn’t a problem if you’re not a marque snob, as it makes sourcing new/old stock or salvage replacements that much easier, but do check the former for cracked, brittle or damaged hide and lifting lacquer on the timber. General creaks are most often nothing more serious than leather surfaces rubbing against each other.

 

OUR VERDICT

Contrary to what some ‘experts’ claim, there is no such thing as a cheap Aston Martin (not one you’d want to buy, anyway), but if you have the money to bag a well-loved example, then we can think of few other cars that offer so much for the money.

The i6s have their own charms – rarity, super-pure styling and evocative supercharger howl to name but three – but if you can stretch to a Vantage, you’ll find it impossible to resist the magificent V12 bellow and astonishing performance.

Those with deeper pockets, however, should seriously consider the run-out GT that immediately preceded the DB9. Yes, it lacks the earlier cars’ ultimate design purity, but it packs the biggest punch and has handling to match the get-up-and-go. And if you really don’t like the bodykit, an i6 uprated to GT-spec isn’t beyond the realms of possibility.

Forthcoming Cygnet aside, there’s no such thing as an ugly Aston Martin, and the DB7 is widely regarded as being among the most beautiful. You will, therefore, be in possession of a car that is guaranteed to draw attention wherever it goes.

You don’t buy one for its telepathic handling, mind. These were conceived as GT cars first and foremost, so don’t expect DB9 dynamics. That said, the pay-off is a beautifully composed ride.

If you do want some fun in the twisties, however, the unique nature of the manufacturer means that many cars have returned to the factory to be retro-uprated. This can be something as simple as an interior makeover or as eye-wateringly expensive as a full conversion to Vantage or GT spec.

The most easily recognisable of these is the
run-out GT – this factory-built hot rod had more power (435bhp) than the standard Vantage, along with subtly, but extensively, modified suspension that made it a properly entertaining handler. However, not everyone likes the extra body addenda that comes hand-in-glove with a GT.

ASTON MARTIN DB4 REVIEW

The Aston Martin DB4 was the start of Aston’s great trinity of David Brown sports cars during the late-1950s and ’60s.


 

Styled by Touring of Milan, the DB4 employed its Superleggera construction technique of light alloy panels over a steel skeleton. This resulted in a structure both lightweight but immensely strong. Underneath was an also-new double overhead-camshaft 3670cc engine putting out 240bhp and giving the DB4 epic performance. Variations included a convertible in 1961 and the more powerful Vantage the following year.

VITAL STATISTICS

Aston Martin DB4

Engine                                    3670cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  240bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 240lb ft@4250rpm

Top speed                                148mph

0-60mph                                  8.4sec

Consumption                            N/A

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

uter panels are aluminium, so won’t rust although they are easily dented, so examine carefully for any dings (or disguising filler). Steel chassis are strong, but do tend to rust at the base of the bulkhead, a major task to put right. Check the rear axle trailing arm mounting points for corrosion as well as all the jacking points, sills and door bottoms. The latter suffers if the drain holes become blocked. Also look around the pedal box and spare wheel well.

 

ENGINE

The 3.7-litre engine needs proper maintenance to ensure proper longevity. Check to see what the oil pressure gauge is reading; 70psi at 3000rpm is passable for cars up to a Series 3 DB4, thereafter 95psi at the same rpm is acceptable for Series 4s and 5s. Look for evidence of regular oil changes – every 2500 miles – especially bearing in mind that the engines do tend to consume a lot of lubricant normally. Overheating can be common as a result of silted waterways, so on any test drive, monitor the temperature gauge. Aftermarket electric fans are a bonus. On the carburettor side of the block, you’ll see bleed holes. If these are weeping coolant, then fluid is getting into places it shouldn’t and the engine needs major attention. 

RUNNING GEAR

The David Brown gearboxes don’t have a great reputation. Synchromesh cones deteriorate, making it difficult, even impossible, to change gear. However, this will only manifest itself when the oil is warm, so requires at least half an hour’s drive to make sure. Make sure the ’box doesn’t leap out of gear too and isn’t unduly noisy. If overdrive is fitted, ensure it works; issues with this are generally electrical and simply solved. Clutches become heavy and wear out quite easily, so check ease of operation during your test. 

Front brake discs do tend to get worn quite quickly and are expensive items to replace. They also need a good push to give their best.

Push down (quite gently – remember the delicate aluminium bodywork) on each body corner and then release – if the car ‘bounces’ more than one and a half times, then the shock absorbers and springs need replacement. The kingpins have rubber gaiters on which can split, allowing grot in to erode the ball joints and thrust pads. There’s a similar gaiter on the steering rack, plus its rubber mountings and securing straps also deteriorate. Vague steering is a symptom of this.


INTERIOR

Connolly leather interiors will cost a fortune to retrim; wear is most likely in the door-side bolster of the driver’s seat. Cloth headlining on earlier cars tends to get stained and discoloured. It was eventually changed to more resilient plastic material. Convertible interiors are more prone to being damaged thanks to greater exposure to sun and rain.  

OUR VERDICT

One does not enter into Aston Martin ownership lightly, especially at this level, and a look at how much you’ll have to pay just to buy one and then the sort of money you’ll have to spend on parts to keep it running, will dissuade most people. You cannot run these cars on a budget. However, if you have the funds, then a DB4 is one of the ultimate British motoring masterpieces and as much a passport to an exclusive world as it is a means of grand touring classic transport.

ASTON MARTIN DB6 REVIEW

Gloriously styled, faster than Malcolm Tucker's temper and spectacularly British, there is an endless number of reasons to own an Aston Martin DB6. 

 

After the final move from Feltham, the new Aston Martin DB6 from 1965 was the first Aston Martin to be totally engineered at the new works in Newport Pagnell. The successful 4-litre six-cylinder double overhead cam unit was carried over from the DB5, and market appeal was increased by improving interior room by adding 4 inches to the wheelbase and offering greater overall headroom. Total length increased by only 2 inches over the previous model however, and although the new DB6 looked far more substantial, it weighed in at only 17lbs more than the DB5. These improvements proved popular, DB5 sales of 1063 cars being eclipsed by total DB6 sales of 1,755. 



 

ASTON MARTIN V8 REVIEW

The Aston Martin V8: Good enough for James Bond, good enough for Royalty and yet shunned from the bank-account busting prices commanded by DB models. Now is the time to venture into ownership of Aston's-V8 lovechild. 

In a world where the traditional Aston superstars – specifically DBs 4, 5 and 6 – routinely command wallet-wilting prices on the open market, finding a stunning looking genuine alternative that bears the same prized badge, but which can be had for comfortably less than the price of a house, might, perhaps, come as something of a surprise.

The V8s are no pale Aston facsimiles, either – they are built to last, go like stink and offer typical Aston interior luxury wrapped up in a shape that has matured noticeably in recent years.

They’re even surprisingly practical, with decent rear cabin space and a deep boot. In fact, with the notable exception of fuel consumption (which can be horrific), the V8 makes a compelling case for itself. 
Better still, while values remained static for years, the market is finally beginning to wake up to them, with later big-engined low-milers now well into six figures. Buying a car purely for investment potential is something we’d never advocate, but there’s no getting around the fact that values of these cars can only rise from here on in.

V8 Astons are wheeled contradictions in many ways. The styling is an unashamed homage to the late ’60s Chevrolet Camaro, yet this US-influenced body houses a quintessentially British interior dripping with Connolly leather, Wilton carpets and glossy walnut.
The build quality, meanwhile, suggests a sedate luxury limousine, but shoving the throttle into the carpet elicits a very un-limo-like rate of knots within a very short space of time. The term ‘gentleman’s hot rod’ has been overused over the years, but if a ever a car fitted such an epithet, this is definitely it.

Even very early DBS V8s could crack zero to 60mph in six seconds and top over 160mph flat-out – figures that in period humbled such contemporary illuminaries as the Ferrari 365 GTC, AC 428 and Jensen Interceptor. As a result, fuel economy barely made it into double figures, but in such decades of excess as the ’70s/80s, did anyone really care?

Giving any Aston Martin V8 the beans is an assault on the senses: the glorious V8 soundtrack, the blurred scenery and the sheer heft of the gearbox and steering make any journey in one a memorable event.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. Blanking off the radiator grille may have boosted the car’s aerodynamic properties, but it did very little for its engine cooling. Even when new, the Vantage ran a good ten degrees hotter than the standard car, so any problems in the cooling system will be magnified ten-fold. Rusty, blocked or vane-damaged radiators are a big no-no, as are cracked cooling pipes, faulty thermostats, ancient coolant and damaged fan-blades. 

2. Unless you’re a stickler for originality, don’t dismiss a V8 Vantage that’s had its grille blanking plate removed, especially if it has spent much of its life in hotter climates. That said, a UK-based car bereft of the blanking plate should start alarm bells ringing: has it been removed to help disguise other chronic overheating issues?

3. Sill integrity is crucial: anything more than minor surface corrosion here can be a deal-breaker. The sills are of a complex design, but rot can be hidden by unscrupulous vendors by fitting a cover plate over corroded inner and outer sills. It might seem drastic, but it’s worth asking a vendor to remove the outer cover (it’s only held in place by a few screws), the better to assess the state of the metal beneath. Always check the jacking points, too.

4. Check the area where the front leading edge of the sill meets an outrigger. This is a known V8 rot spot, and ease of rectification is hardly helped by the fact that both the brake and fuel lines run through the offside outrigger. Other areas that must be checked include the bases of the A- and B-pillars (which attach to the sills) and, at the rear, the outer sill box sections, the rear of the boot floor and the chassis legs. Those elegant aluminium doors clad a rot-prone steel inner shell, too.

5. The sheer robustness of Tadek Marek’s V8 engine design means that the bottom end should last 150,000 miles or more if it is regularly serviced using quality oils. Even a high mileage example in need of new pistons and/or liners is rare and likely to have stemmed from neglect. The top end is less bullet-proof, however, with head-gaskets in particular a known weak-spot. Replacement is straightforward enough, but if the seals between the engine block and wet liners deteriorate, then the oil will eventually become contaminated with water, with expensive repairs the likely result.

6. Low oil pressure is always an ominous sign: anything less than 13psi at idle (or less than 60psi at higher revs) signifies an engine that is on its last legs, while excessive consumption of the black stuff points to worn piston rings – either way, expect a full stripdown and re-build.

7. Other engine-related engine issues to watch out for include loud rattles (likely to be caused by a terminally worn water pump or stretched timing chains), while persistent rough running and/or poor starting can often be traced back to badly adjusted carbs or sooted-up plugs.

8. Walk away from any car whose transmission is displaying any signs of distress. A loud metallic sound that disappears once the clutch is disengaged is usually indicative of worn layshaft bearings, while sloppy clutches will need replacing sooner rather than later. This is a particularly horrible (and therefore expensive) job on very early (pre-1976) V8s, since it involves removal of a great deal of cabin trim.

Our verdict

In many ways the forgotten Aston amid the hyper-money DBs from the 50s and 60s and the new-monied DB9/Virage/V8/V12 Vantage current crop, the V8 evolutions of the old DBS must surely rate as a hot tip for buyers looking for the best of all classic car worlds that won’t lose them money.

Sure, later models lost the badge cachet of the ‘DB’ moniker when David Brown (who turned Aston Martin’s fortunes around following his purchase of the company in 1947), finally called it a day, but the styling remains, as does the towering might of the famous Tadek Marek-designed engine, allied to belief-defying handling and ride qualities.

There seems little doubt that now is the AMV8’s time: we say invest in one now before prices follow those of earlier DBs into the stratosphere.

ASTON MARTIN VIRAGE REVIEW

Searching for a prime slice of British Beef? The Aston Martin Virage should tick all the boxes... 

Time waits for no-one, not even much-loved British supercar manufacturers, and whatever the machismo appeal of Aston Martin’s V8 saloon and Volante convertible of the Seventies and Eighties, nobody could deny that the oft-cash-strapped marque was falling behind its rivals by keeping the Sixties shape in production. Imagine Ferrari still building the Daytona or Lamborghini its Espada as the Eighties drew to a close?

So, when better finances finally allowed Newport Pagnell the opportunity to think about replacement rather than just constant updating of the old V8, the long overdue result in 1988 was both radical and special. The Aston Martin Virage was a thorough reworking of the V8 engine with a bold and brutal new body on top, which drew much praise for its timeless looks and muscular appearance. Retaining much of the V8’s existing chassis but making the engine even more potent kept the traditional feel but added extra fury to what had gone before, reminding owners – both current and potential – that Aston Martin was still one of the world’s greatest supercar builders. What’s not to get excited about...? 

Shown at the 1988 Birmingham Motor Show in Coupe form, with first deliveries in 1990, the sensational new Aston Martin Virage re-stated its forerunner's muscular looks in the modern idiom, slightly narrower but with increased interior space. With 330bhp, a top speed approaching 160mph was possible and 60mph in under 7 seconds. By 1990 the Virage Volante was announced, with first deliveries in 1992/3. Meanwhile Aston Martin's Works Service had developed and produced a high performance version of the Virage Coupe equipped with a host of upgrades to improve the overall performance still further. The '6.3 litre package' consisted of an engine rebuilt to 6.3-litres with power rising to 465bhp and over 170mph (274kph). Front and rear suspension was uprated, with Racing Group 'C' AP anti-lock brakes, Goodyear 285/45/ZR18 tyres, and flared wide-arches to accommodate. The total package could cost in excess of £50,000. As Virage Volante production continued, some cars were specified from new with elements of the 6.3 package.

ASTON MARTIN DB2

The Aston Martin DB2/4 makes for classic car motoring even the gods would be proud of. Here's why you want one... 

The Aston Martin DB2/4 is an expensive car designed to cater for the connoisseur of sports cars who is not limited by financial considerations' so wrote the The Autocar, October 2, 1953. Widening the appeal of the DB2, the DB2/4 from October 1953 had four-seats for the sportscar enthusiast with family, created by adding two occasional folding rear seats and raising the roof line, the resulting flat deck and opening rear door creating possibly the earliest form of hatchback. Modifications to the rear of the chassis plus a reduction in fuel tank capacity from 19 to 17 gallons also contributed to the liberation of enough space for the extra seats. A one-piece windscreen replaced the split-screen and a full set of bumpers were also provided. Standard specification included the 125bhp 2.6-litre twin OHC 'W.O. Bentley' engine, but from 1954 the larger bore 3-litre 140bhp engine was installed, providing 118mph top speed and 60mph in around 11 seconds. The Aston Martin DB2/4 was one of the fastest cars then built in Great Britain - with 100mph in third gear and around 120mph maximum - with impeccable handling plus a level of comfort then rare in any high-performance car.

ASTON MARTIN DB5 REVIEW

Forget about Bond, forget about Peter Sellers, forget about that ejector seat - the Aston Martin DB5 deserves cult status in its own right. 

 

The driving position of an Aston Martin DB5 has a delightful vintage feel to it, with lots of big, round instruments set within a painted metal dashboard. Sniff the leather, reach out for the controls... and bear in mind that this was intended as a sporting carriage for a gentleman. It’s more golf club and horse-and-hounds than race track, despite the formidable Aston Martin competition heritage. 
You’ll recognise instantly that this is a car that could only have been built in Britain.

Once you’ve got this grand tourer out on the open road, you’ll revel in the torque that big and slightly gruff straight-six engine develops to make every gearchange a thrill in itself. 

There’s a distinctive heaviness about a 1960s Aston Martin, and that helps to give the cars a satisfying feeling of quality and solidity. You’ll certainly notice the weight under cornering and, if you’re pushing on, you might also notice that over-enthusiastic cornering will make the tail run a little wide. Steady! It’s still somebody else’s car – for the moment, anyway.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

ASTON MARTIN DB5

 

Engine                                    3995cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  282bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 280lb ft@4500rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                  8.1sec

Consumption                            12-21mpg

Gearbox                                    5-spd manual


 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

 

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The most expensive area of a DB5 to repair is the chassis – if it’s very rusty, it can make repairs economically nonsensical despite current high DB5 prices. Get the car up on a lift and, starting at the back, check – visually and by prodding – the radius arm mounting points, boot floor, spare wheel well, rear passenger floor, sills and jacking points.

Still under the car, examine very carefully the area where the pedal box is welded to the front jacking point. There should be no movement. At the front of the car, also look at the points where the lower wishbones pivot on the chassis. Ideally, you’ll find traces of grease as evidence of proper maintenance. The sockets on the chassis are aluminium inserts that can corrode and seize up, with results both costly and dangerous. Examine the area around the steering rack as well, checking that the rather crude-looking securing straps are intact – it’s not unknown for them to come adrift

The outer panels of the body are made of aluminium-magnesium alloy. They will corrode through electrolytic action where they touch the steel underneath, so look very carefully for lines of pimples starting to appear under the paint. Most restorers these days do their best to insulate one metal from the other, but it’s near impossible to do so completely.

 

ENGINE

Once you’ve done the regular visual examination of the engine for fluid levels, leaks and oil-filler mayonnaise, start it up and listen: the valve gear will be audible, but it should be making a regular noise with no harshness or clattering sounds. Check the oil pressure gauge for a figure as high as 100psi (or so) at 3000rpm on an engine in tip-top condition. Once warmed up, blip the throttle sharply and lift off. Listen for timing chain noises and look for blue smoke from the exhaust. The oil pressure gauge should not go haywire, but should either stay steady or rise quickly and drop slowly

 

RUNNING GEAR

Looking deeper into a car, you need to check two important structural cross-members which can rot through and will be very expensive to repair. At the front, the critical one runs above the gearbox and below the bulkhead. At the rear, it’s the cross-member above the rear "axle". 

 

BRAKES

Now’s the time to take the car for a drive. Oddities like pulling to one side and sticking brakes will now show up (many DB5s see little use, so things do seize up). Listen for undue noise from the rear axle, but don’t be too worried by a little because the cars are well known for it. Driving gently in second gear, lift off the throttle and listen for clunks from the back. Get back up to speed, brake gently and listen for similar noises at the front. These noises point to suspension wear; it may only be bushes, but make sure you take a closer look as well. You can double-check for worn trailing-arm bushes during your test drive. Select reverse (from standstill, obviously!), and see how the car behaves. If the back end lifts sharply as you engage drive, those bushes are past their best


INTERIOR

Interiors were all hand-made, so repairs will require skill levels similar to those of the original craftsmen. Those are costly these days. Cracked leather can usually be brought up to scratch with work, but also use your sense of smell for your checks inside the car. If it smells damp in there, look round very carefully to see where the wetness is getting in.

 

OUR VERDICT

When Aston Martin began thinking about the car that became the DB5, they saw it as a new series of the DB4 range, and therein lies a tale. In most departments, it really was an uprated DB4, with bigger-capacity engine and better brakes, the faired-in headlamps that had appeared on the DB4GT and a longer tail that improved the looks.

Various things made it easier to drive than a DB4. Better brakes were just one of them; the five-speed overdrive ZF gearbox standardised after a few months’ production was another. The basic car was a two-door saloon, and 898 of the 1021 DB5s built between 1963 and 1965 had this configuration. There were elegant convertibles, too (not at this stage called by the Volante name) and Harold Radford turned a dozen cars into shooting-brakes. An uprated Vantage engine was also offered, but was fairly rare.

A DB5 is old-school British GT motoring at its best. There can be few car enthusiasts who have never wanted one, and the model’s popularity shows no sign whatsoever of abating.

The DB5 is a Great British Icon, and the car’s appearance in the James Bond movie Goldfinger means everyone knows exactly what it is. So ownership of one of these cars commands respect and awe in about equal measures.

The problem is that this kind of status also makes a DB5 more difficult to use for everyday transport. The light-fingered and the envious are always around to spoil an owner’s fun. And imagine the heartbreak of an accidental scrape from a trolley in the supermarket car park!

A DB5 is a superb piece of machinery and thoroughly enjoyable to drive on the open road, but you need to think exactly why you want to own such a piece of automotive history. For long-distance rallies with a decent parc fermé at the end of every day, it would be ideal. For the odd county show or summer steam event, it would be something of a liability.