RELIANT RIALTO REVIEW

Reliant

If you’re tempted to try a car that doesn’t have a wheel in each corner then here’s a practical choice that defies the jokers

Introduced in 1982, the Reliant Rialto was effectively a revised version of the company’s famous Robin three-wheeler offering more stability at higher speeds plus improved MPG.

Design house International Automotive Design (IAD), responsible for the Alien concept car of 1984, plus work on cars including the Mazda MX-5 and Volvo 440, came up with the more aerodynamic wedge shape with its sloping front and squared off back. Other new features included rectangular headlights, a single large windscreen wiper, revised interior and a stronger fibreglass body. The Robin’s original 848cc light alloy engine sat in a galvanised chassis while several other components were inherited from its predecessor.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 848cc/4-cyl/OHV

POWER 39bhp@5500rpm

TORQUE 46lb ft@3500rpm

TOP SPEED 80mph

0-60MPH 17sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 60mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed man

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODY TALK

While the fibreglass bodyshell reduces the prospect of corrosion, they are liable to accident damage so still require close inspection. Be wary of cars that have been abused in the name of fun too. Below the bodyline, even the galvanised chassis is liable to corrosion. Specific areas to examine include the A-frame that holds the front wheel in place, gearbox mounts and front uprights.

ENGINE AND MECHANICALS

Because they were so compact and light (total weight coming in at under half-a-ton), well looked after and unabused Rialtos will happily last for years. They are not difficult to work on and there is a good supply of secondhand parts available at reasonable prices to keep your three-wheeler going. Regularly maintained engines will enjoy long life though check for signs of overheating and the prospects of a blown head gasket. Four-speed gearboxes also perform well though check for signs of wear on second gear synchromesh. Brakes are generally good, while a weak clutch canfairly easily be replaced.

DRIVING LICENCE CHANGES

For a long while a motorcycle licence loophole made lightweight three-wheelers a very popular choice but EU regulations saw the driving licence legislation for three-wheelers changed considerably in January 2013 for new drivers. The most important changes from that date are that new drivers must be a minimum of 21 years of age (for tricycles over 15 kW), and require a motorcycle licence (category A or A1) to be able to drive them because they no longer fall within category B1. Drivers with existing full entitlement to drive B1 category vehicles gained before January 2013 retain that right.

ON THE CARDS

Owner cards were introduced by Reliant for the Rialto that included information on the vehicle plus warranty and service information details for dealers. Bagging one of these with your car would be a definite bonus.

OUR VERDICT

There was a big waiting list for the Rialto when it was first announced and it was a good seller for Reliant but despites its advantages it never equalled the popularity of the Robin that reappeared in Mk2 form from 1989.

Of the various Rialto formats available, the estate version provides the most practical choice. In 1985 a Jubilee Rialto model was introduced to celebrate Reliant’s 50th year in business.

Second generation Rialtos appeared in 1984 featuring a High Torque-Energy engine with high ratio rear axle. Despite the reduced power, 37.5bhp instead of 40bhp, it was capable of three figure speeds and fuel economy of up to 70mpg when cruising at 56mph.

Reliant three-wheelers have had to put up with endless jokes thanks to Del Boy’s Reliant Regal in TV’s Only Foolsand Horses and past Top Gear presenters’ desire to tip them over, but the Rialto does offer practical aspects that deserve more serious consideration.

These often overlooked three-wheelers offer economic fun if you treat them with respect. A project will cost you £500 and you will have to pay a premium for a concours example.

RELIANT SCIMITAR GTE REVIEW

Reliant

Space, pace, but maybe not that much grace. Not that it’s put anyone off. Sporting three-door estates aren’t easy to come by – but this is one of the best.

Born from the mad designs of the styling house Ogle, the Reliant Scimitar GTE was always going to have a curious life.

The blend of practicality and sporting appeal that makes the Scimitar such a useable and entertaining classic made it instantly desirable, while behind the wheel was a throbbing V6.

The smooth and torquey ‘Essex’ V6 engine that nestles in the nose had a decent turn of speed and relaxed cruising ability. The Cologne V6 made its way into the car in 1979, providing even more pace.

Grunt from either of the V6s is heart-poundingly fun when the mood strikes. The chassis is balanced, but plenty of wayward action can be had. The four-speed manual ‘box – especially with overdrive – makes the best of the power on offer though so that’s the one to go for if you prefer a more sporting and involving drive.

Being an estate, there’s plenty of space too. Passengers have loads of room, as does the luggage. Considering the room, practicality, and comfort on offer, the Scimitar is almost criminally undervalued. But that’s good news for buyers, and as long as you check the condition of the bodywork and interior there’s little to fear with this sporting estate. With such an appealing blend of attributes we like it a lot. You will, too.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 2994cc/V6/OHV

POWER 128bhp@4750rpm

TORQUE 152lb ft@3000pm

MAXIMUM SPEED 110mph

0-60MPH 12.3sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 21mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

V6 V GOOD

Ford’s Essex V6 was used in the SE5, SE5A, SE6 and SE6A. It’s durable with regular maintenance so you’re really just looking for signs of neglect. Check for oil leaks, excessive exhaust smoke, and evidence of head gasket failure, and ensure the cooling system is up to scratch. And expect oil pressure of at least 40psi when warm – anything less could point to a worn oil pump drive. The fibre timing wheel was a weak point and most have been replaced with an aluminium item by now, but it’s worth checking, and don’t worry about tales of engine fires; it was a carburettor issue cured years ago, and as long as the fuel inlet pipe at the carb is secure – later ones were modified – it’ll be fine. In 1979, the new SE6B used the German-built Ford ‘Cologne’ 2.8-litre V6. These are generally reliable – and can see off more than 150,000 miles easily. Don’t worry about a rough idle – it’s pretty normal. Do worry about blue smoke.

CHASSIS ROT

Chassis rot is prevalent in these cars, as the chassis wasn’t galvanised. Examine the main chassis rails and outriggers, the seat belt mounting points, and around the fuel tank (including the tank itself) although the latter is hard to access completely with the tank in place. The roll-over bar running across the car and bolting to the central outriggers is another rust trap so check it thoroughly, and you should also pay attention to the area beneath the radiator and the spare wheel well in the nose.

GOOD BODY

Good news – the glassfibre construction means there’s no panel rust to worry about. Metal strengthening inserts in the SE5 shell can corrode and lead to cracks though. Every panel needs a thorough examination for cracks and grazing - concentrating on stress points such as hinges. It’s important to remember to check the paintwork thoroughly - a full re-spray is trickier and more costly than with a steel body. Watch for signs of micro-blistering, and ensure that a previous re-spray hasn’t been done to cover damage. Parts availability is generally good, but items such as window rubbers, rear bumpers on the ‘5’, and rear light units (shared with the Hillman Hunter) are scarce. You can spot a 5a by the reversing lamps incorporated in the light cluster rather than below the rear bumper.

GREASING TRUNNIONS

Trunnions need greasing every six months to avoid excess wear. Worn bushes can be an issue too and while not difficult to sort it will be labour-intensive. Generally though, the steering and brakes present few worries other than wear and tear and parts are cheap, but the suspension needs more careful checking. Remember to check the mounting points for corrosion as well.

CRUNCHY SHIFTS

The Borg Warner 35 automatic added from 1970 should be smooth-shifting but may be in need of a re-build by now so budget accordingly if shifts are jerky. The 4-speed manual ‘box can suffer from crunchy shifts and jumping out of gear. Overdrive was added from ’71 and improves cruising ability but check it cuts in and out as it should, and check for leaks in the clutch hydraulics.

PRICEY INSIDES

Interiors can get pricey – so condition is another important factor so check it carefully. A full carpet set can cost £264 alone. Ensure minor trim parts are present and correct and check the electrics too as poor earths and aged wiring cause a multitude of niggling problems, although the electric windows in a 5a were always slow. Other issues to watch for include broken front seat frames and excessive creaks and rattles that can signify a tired example.

OUR VERDICT

There’s something very alluring about a sporting estate. You like the sound, and the grunt of the V6. Plus it’s an estate – and its lines are reminiscent of a sports car. The juxtaposition between the three whets many people’s appetites and it’s easy to see why. Parts support is great, and they still offer phenomenal value for money.

RELIANT SCIMITAR REVIEW

Reliant

With power, style and poise, we discover that life in plastic is fantastic

With the Sabre Six beginning to look long in the tooth by the early 1960s, a replacement was on the cards. It was fortuitous then, that Ray Wiggin, Managing Director of Reliant, chanced upon an Ogle SX250 at the 1962 motor show. Made from GRP and echoing the lines of the Daimler Dart, it was exactly what Reliant was looking for. Two years later, the design was adapted to accept the chassis and running gear of the Reliant Sabre, along with a Ford 2.6-litre engine, before being unveiled to the market in 1964. Lusty, powerful and handsome, it received good reviews from the motoring press.

VITAL STATISTICS

RELIANT SCIMITAR GT SE4

Engine 2553cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 120bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 140lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed 117mph

0-60mph 11.4sec

Consumption 23mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Unusually, the SE4’s bodywork was made entirely of GRP. While this means rust will be less of a problem compared to its rivals, it does throw up its own set of problems. Plastic tends to flex a lot more than steel, so paintwork should be your first point of inspection.

Cracking is common on cars that have been poorly re-sprayed. Split or flaking paintwork is bad news and could be the result of a half-hearted repair. If left exposed to sunlight or extremes of temperature, bodywork can warp. The best way to check this is to have it driven away from you. If it looks a bit uneven or crabs sideways then tread carefully – it can cost a fortune to put right. Similarly, be wary of cars that require a repaint – a decent job can be prohibitively expensive.

ENGINE

The 2.6-litre, four-cylinder engine used in the SE4 was sourced from the Ford Zodiac (but with the addition of triple SU carburettors) and is a strong and reliable unit, providing it is well cared for. Ensure that oil and coolant levels are adequate and check the history file for evidence of regular servicing. The engine uses a cast iron head in an overhead valve arrangement, so tappets are easily set. Be more concerned by any knocking noises or blue smoke under acceleration. White smoke under load is bad news as well, and suggests that water may be mixing with the oil due to head gasket failure. Check the oil filler for mayonnaise and the header tank for an oily film. Check too for an up-rated cooling fan and allow the car to heat up, making sure that the thermostat kicks in. If this doesn’t happen, then assume the car has overheated recently. Coupés rarely overheat, but when they do it is usually a result of poor maintenance and a damaged radiator.

RUNNING GEAR

The suspension and running gear is simple but effective, utilising coil springs and wishbones at the front and coil springs and trailing arms at the rear. Front suspension has a tendancy to drop, so make sure the car appears to be sitting level. Rear dampers tended to wear out quickly in early cars, but this problem was addressed in cars built after October 1965. Girling discs at the front and drums at the rear were spongy, even when new, so don’t let this put you off. Watch for any juddering under heavy braking, as front discs can warp if put under too much stress. Check that the steering doesn’t seem too heavy, it can be a sign that the trunnions haven’t been greased regularly.

Take the car up to speed and make sure the overdrive is functioning properly – cruising can be a chore without it.

INTERIOR

Many of the interior and electrical components were cannibalised from other models, so don’t be surprised to see a mish-mash of parts that don’t quite fit. The sun visors actually foul the rear-view mirror when you pull them down.

Early cars will have a headlamp dimmer switch on the floor – check this hasn’t been damaged,.

OUR VERDICT

When you think of 1960s British sports cars, the Scimitar SE4 is probably not the first model to come to mind – which is exactly why they have such a committed following today. Always an uncommon car, the SE4 is now genuinely rare. As long as you are aware of the costs involved, there’s no reason to be scared by a project. Spares are easily available.