FORD CONSUL REVIEW

Ford

With prices rising, now could be the perfect time to buy this Ford...

The car you always promised yourself? Despite the fact that the famous line was never used to sell this particular Ford, for teddy boys and Elvis wannabes the Ford Consul Capri was certainly that. Americana on an Acton scale, the Consul Capri and its Classic sister proved that Stateside style needn’t always sell in Surbiton.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1499cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 78bhp@00rpm

Torque 91lb/ft@00rpm

Top Speed 79mph

0-60mph 22.6seconds

Economy 36.7mpg

Gearbox 4 speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

While the Consul Capri is an inherently strong design by dint of its advanced monocoque construction, beware that this is due to a complex (and rot-prone) structure. Check the headlamp panels, outer and inner wings, jacking points, sills, the rear valance and wheelarches – all noted rust traps in the Consul Capri. The pillarless windows might look pretty, but check they seal properly – while badly fitting seals can be remedied, you can’t be certain how long they’ve been like they are and whether they’ve let any water in.

ENGINE

Just two – an enlarged derivative of the Anglia’s Kent engine putting out 1340c, replaced in 1962 by a 1500cc variant. The GT model used the 1500cc engine with an increased compression ratio of 9:1, a modified cylinder head, a new exhaust manifold, a reprofiled camshaft by Keith Duckworth and a Weber carburettor. These engines have proved reliable in service, and due to commonality with other Ford models parts supplies are plentiful. The GT is the rarer, more desirable variant, and does attract a small price premium. Keep the crankcase breather clear – failure to do so can lead to the crackcase over-pressurising and the seals failing.

RUNNING GEAR

Again no surprises, the running gear in the Consul Capri is identical to that in the Classic and shared with the Anglia and Cortina. Make sure you look at the front struts – they’re reliable, but the mountings rot. Not clever!

INTERIOR

It’s like the OK Diner on wheels. Two-tone PVC seating, a painted dashboard to match the car, and a strip speedo – all that’s missing is the Beach Boys eight-track and some extra chrome! With so few cars made and fewer remaining, trim will be hard to find – you’re more likely to source spares through the Ford Classic & Capri Owners Club than anywhere else.

OUR VERDICT

Why should you buy one? Because you’re an extrovert, with a penchant for 1950s American culture, and you’d like something that satisfies your lust for excess yet fits in your garage. The Consul Capri is a T-bird for Britain, and while there are doubtless people who treasure the Consul Classic and Capri as examples of Ford’s failures, most will be out for the rock’n’roll experience.

FORD CORSAIR REVIEW

Ford

The motorways of the Sixties were very different to how they are today. The Ford Corsair sped down the empty roads and cut through the air with its American looks. Even more so today, the Corsair stands out from bland European boxes that queue in traffic jams. Kent engines and mini-Thunderbird looks proved the Corsair had style, sportiness and reliability all in one package. Bag yourself a good one now.

VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Corsair 2 Litre

Engine 1996cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power 93bhp@4750rpm

Torque 120lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 100mph

0-60mph 13.4sec

Economy 24.8mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Doors are particularly susceptible to rust, so it’s well worth having a look for bubbles and signs of corrosion. While you’re there remember to check rust in the boot floor and the sills as well, as these were often used as company cars and have had a hard life. Only Deluxe and GT models had brightwork, but some standard models may have had it added. Scratched chromework is common, but replacement parts on eBay come up regularly so it may be worth buying smaller parts rather than re-chroming them.

ENGINE & GEARBOX

The Corsair was available in 1.5, 1.7 and 2.0-litre engines, but they had a reputation for underwhelming performance, so it’s important to look out for modifications. Although some modifications like changing to Weber 32 DIF carbs can be useful, it’s worth examining any mods, to make sure they’re well maintained. Although the Corsair is generally quite reliable, maintenance is key. Engine oil should be changed every 5000 miles, and valve rocker clearances should be checked at the same interval. When checking the oil levels (recommended every 300 miles), if oil consumption reaches more than 1 pint per 300 miles cylinder bores or rings are worn and need replacing.

RUNNING GEAR

Disc brakes at the front and drums at the rear provide more than ample stopping power. 2.0-litre cars come with an additional boost to the hydraulic system by using the engine inlet manifold to provide greater braking power with less pedal effort. Rear brakes should be replaced every 5000 miles, but front discs can last up to 10,000. Watch out for excessive play in the steering, it could mean the track control arms need replacing. If the steering is particularly stiff this could be incorrect wheel alignment (a common fault.)

INTERIOR

The Corsair lived up to its upmarket image by having luxuries like childproof rear door locks, built-in seat belt anchorages and a heater as standard. As the Cortina shared so much of its DNA with the Corsair it’s only normal parts should be interchangeable. Cortina seats and steering wheels are commonplace in Corsairs as they just bolt straight on. All cars from 1967 onwards came with a wood veneer dash, but many have been changed back to black vinyl from earlier models. It’s worth trying to stick with original parts to maximise your resell value.

ELECTRICS

A printed circuit board inside the instrument panel was proudly displayed by Ford, making it the first car to do so. It can come in handy when locating broken or faulty wires that can cause things like the fuel gauge to register incorrectly. Loose fan belts can result in batteries going flat as it can cause the dynamo to revolve too slowly, and therefore won’t provide enough energy to power the battery. Electrical problems tend to manifest themselves within the cabin, but can stretch to the engine, as there can be ignition problems caused by faulty wiring.

OUR VERDICT

Do you want a classic Ford with American-influenced design, married to European road handling and build quality? The Corsair is the perfect coupling of Ford’s main interests, Europe and America. Our people may be different but Ford’s dominance in both markets shone through in the Corsair, making this middle market Ford anything from middle of the road.

FORD CORTINA MK V REVIEW

Ford

The last of the line, the Cortina 80 would herald the end for one of the most popular cars in British history...

The Cortina was never a sports car, but it can still be a real hoot to drive. The 2.3-litre V6 is comfortably the best performer, being the largest capacity and highest power output of all Cortinas. The four-speed manual gearbox helps to make things feel quite sporty, urgently pulling through the gears when given enough encouragement.

Still a big car, it won’t appreciate being flung into corners, but suspension and brakes are both up to the task of relatively enthusiastic driving. Being particularly roomy inside, the MkV makes a perfect long distance tourer, and will be much more reliable than many older classics of similar type. A 0-60 time of only 10.5 seconds is ample to keep up with most modern traffic, and the top speed of 108mph is more than you would ever need on public roads. 1.6-litre and 2-litre cars are functional and will be suitable for most people, but the 1.3-litre version will leave you wanting much more.

VITAL STATISTICS

1979 Ford Cortina mkv

Engine 2294cc/V6/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 108bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 130lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 108mph

0-60mph 10.5sec

Consumption 23mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Though better protected than earlier incarnations, the MkV is still vulnerable to rot, and will have suffered if not well cared for. Check all bodywork for signs of rust, especially around the wheel arches and wings. Replacements in good condition will be affordable, but difficult to find. Be wary of cars that have recently been re-sprayed, they may be covering sub-standard repairs that will only begin to show when its too late. Take a small magnet with you when viewing to check suspected areas for signs of filler.

Lift the screen rubbers and inspect the metal below. If there is any sign of rot, avoid the car. If water has got in it will gradually be eating away the bulkhead, which will be prohibitively expensive to put right and potentially dangerous
if undetected.

ENGINE

Engine options fall into two types; Kent and Pinto. The smaller units were Kent engines, and should be good for around 100,000 miles or so. Anything more than this and you should be expecting a rebuild.

Check for any knocking noises, but don’t be too concerned by rattly tappets. Look for blue smoke under hard acceleration, burning oil is a sign of excessive engine wear.

Pinto engines, first used in the MkIII, require a cambelt change every 30,000 miles, so make sure this is documented. Regular oil changes are also
a must, so make sure the history is well documented and if possible, comprehensive.

2.3-litre Cologne V6s are the most durable of the bunch, and should outlast the car providing it is well cared for.

RUNNING GEAR

Suspension components are relatively cheap and easy to fix, but still carry out all the usual checks. Push down on each corner of the car, listening for any clunking or unusual noises. Check that the car sits at the same height on each corner. Sloppy handling and a shimmy from the rear are often signs of worn suspension bushes. Poly replacements will be a huge improvement, making the car much more predictable in the corners.

Four-speed gearboxes are very well put together and will likely cause you no real problems, but still check for the usual signs of wear and tear. Make sure it doesn’t jump out of gear, and that it is a smooth change with no strange noises or vibrations.

Some cars had five-speed Sierra boxes fitted; if this is the case make sure that the work is carried out to a high standard.

INTERIOR

Lift the carpets to inspect the floor pan, especially in the foot wells and seatbelt mounts. Foot wells are prone to rust, particularly in cars where the scuttle is also compromised. Lift the carpet in the boot and check for signs of rust and poorly welded patches. Take a good look at the sunroof, too. They leak in a variety of places, and any rot will likely be the tip of the iceberg.

OUR VERDICT

Brought in as an update to the Cortina MkIV, the Cortina 80, or MkV as it would become known, was produced at Ford’s assembly plant in Dagenham. A £30million facelift of its predecessor, the MkV – built for just three years between 1979 and 1982 – incorporated a number of improvements over the older design including larger indicators, greater glass area and revised rear lights.

There were also advances in aerodynamics, the Mk V getting a flatter, more streamlined roof, and wider front grille. Electronic ignition was added to top spec models, giving the 2.3-litre V6 variant a further 8bhp over the outgoing model. For the first two years the Cortina would become the best selling car in Britain, before eventually giving way to the Ford Escort in 1982.

More robust than previous models, the MkV is easier to maintain and much more affordable to purchase. Visibility and drivability are a vast improvement on the outgoing model.

There are few budget classics where your money will go quite as far as with a Cortina MkV. They’re getting thin on the ground these days, especially in good condition. Remarkably, this hasn’t affected values in the slightest; they’re still cheap as chips. Hold out for the top spec 2.3-litre Ghia model, and only part with your cash for a top rate example. You should be able to pick up a nice car for £1500, but don’t pay more than £2500. Most were consigned to the scrap heap many years ago, however cosseted examples are still available. There aren’t many more affordable routes to classic car ownership, and its rarity ensures you’ll cut a dash at any of the summer classic shows.

FORD CORTINA MK1 REVIEW

Ford

It was the beginning of a famous line, but what is it like now?

Huge numbers of families and junior executives may have aspired to own the new Cortina back in 1962, but that was more than 50 years ago. The good news is that the MkI is a reliable and entertaining classic saloon thanks to Ford’s dedication to making the Cortina as modern as possible.

The standard cars aren’t terribly quick – the 1200 in particular feels underpowered – so you’ll probably find the 1500 more useful on a daily basis. What the engines do offer are smoothness and lively responses, which means that if you want to take long trips behind that spindly three-spoke steering wheel you’ll be able to keep up with modern traffic.

A slick gearchange allows you to row the Cortina along nicely and make the most of the fairly limited power on offer (just 60bhp in 1500 form). The rest of the controls are nicely weighted, too, and while the steering isn’t a paragon of accuracy – compared to rack and pinion systems anyway – it doesn’t affect your enjoyment. In fact, the Ford rides and handles remarkably well given the relatively low-tech underpinnings. Stopping power is adequate, even on early models with their all-drum set-up. Later front discs add extra bite and confidence,

The positives continue on the inside, too. There’s plenty of space for passengers, while the driver benefits from a good driving position with all the major controls perfectly placed. A dearth of standard equipment can make for a slightly austere feel, but it’s no worse than any other comparable car of the period. Facelifted versions added the innovative ‘Airflow’ fresh air ventilation system that was a real selling point – no, really!

A further plus is the roomy boot, making the Cortina perfect for that family touring holiday – it’s easy to see why so many buyers couldn’t wait to get their hands on one when it was new.

VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Cortina 1500

Engine 1498cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 60bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 82lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed 85mph

0-60mph 21sec

Consumption 32mpg

Gearbox 4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The MkI’s bodyshell contains a host of rust traps, so be cautious when examining a potential purchase. Obvious areas include the front wings – both inner and outer, especially around the headlights – and the sills. Wheelarches and valances also suffer and take a close look at the door and windscreen pillars. Check carefully for a rotten bulkhead above the pedals, and corroded rear panels where the bumper irons attach. Door bottoms and edges of the bonnet and boot lid. Watch for bubbling around the chrome styling strips on ‘Super’ models and the ‘Di-Noc’ trim on estates, as rust can be festering away underneath.

Look for rot in the chassis legs and outriggers, the jacking points, the floor panels, and spare wheel well.

A particular area to check is where the chassis passes over the rear axle, and the rear legs on estate models. The petrol tank rusts merrily – the top of the tank forms part of the boot floor so check for damage caused by heavy loads. Replacement body panels are available but quality can vary so speak to the club for advice.

ENGINE

A combination of simplicity and plenty of space under the bonnet means major engine work isn’t a chore, so it’s a case of watching for excessive blue exhaust smoke and rumbles/knocks that signify an impending re-build. Clattery valve gear and timing chains are common though easy to sort, as are oil or coolant leaks. The ‘Kent’ units are fundamentally strong and fitting new cylinder liners can rescue a badly worn one, but secondhand engines are relatively cheap and plentiful. A fair few have had the underpowered base 1200cc unit replaced by 1500s – it’s not a problem, as long as you’re aware of what you’re buying.

ELECTRICS

While some trim parts are scarce – damaged centre consoles on GTs are a particular problem – Aldridge Trimming can supply new door cards and headlinings. Extensive re-trimming will come at a price, so avoid anything too neglected. Apart from aged or bodged wiring there are few electrical problems, but wiper motors can be a weak point.

RUNNING GEAR

The all-synchromesh four-speed manual gearbox (column shift, wand-type lever, or remote shifter depending on age and model) is durable, but listen out for the whine of worn layshaft bearings in lower gears. Jumping out of gear is common and will mean a re-build or replacement is on the cards, while a buzzing gearlever is more of an annoyance and often caused by worn linkage bushes. The Borg Warner 35 automatic arrived in late 1963 and should be smooth and quiet in operation.

BRAKES

Play in the steering box or worn joints will lead to vague steering, while stiffness is likely to be caused by seized top strut bearings. The ball race within the rubber mount wears quickly, too, so check for play. There’s little else to worry about other than sagging rear leaf springs, noisy rear wheel bearings – these are fiddly to fix – and neglected braking systems. The latter is easy to refurbish, though, whether the early all-drum or disc/drum set-up of later models. It’s also sensible to check for rot around the spring hangers and in the front strut towers – neither is difficult to fix, but costs can escalate if the rust has been allowed to spread.

INTERIOR

Sumptous interior boasted soft fabric and acres of space

OUR VERDICT

Sharp styling and refreshing simplicity are key to the Cortina’s appeal. As a starter classic, it is hard to resist, being spacious, practical, and pleasant to drive. It’s DIY-friendly, too, with good parts availability, but be wary of rotten examples that require extensive restoration.

1968 FORD CORTINA MK2 REVIEW

Ford

The MkII Cortina carried on the good work of the MkI before it.

MkII Cortinas were made for four years, but still clocked up more than a million sales

Unveiled in 1966, the MkII Cortina’s well-proportioned and boxy bodywork helped to spearhead the move towards less curvaceous styling at the tail end of the 1960s. Reliability was assured too, as the MkII used much of the old MkI’s oily bits, with appreciative customers offered a multitude of different trim and engine options. From 1297cc to 1599cc units and somewhat austere saloons and estates, through to plusher and sportier versions, there was a model to suit every taste and budget.

VITAL STATISTICS

1968 Cortina 1600E

Engine 1599cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 71bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 91lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed 88mph

0-60mph 13sec

Consumption 24mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Condition of the bulkhead and A-posts is paramount, as both are complex and expensive to fix. Check them carefully, along with other hidden rot spots including the strut tops, sills, spare wheel well and opposite void, boot floor and floor pan. The jacking points can also dissolve, as can the main members above the rear axle, along with the rear spring and shock absorber mountings.

Visible rust is most likely in the area around the headlamps, front bumper supports, front edge of the bonnet, front wings, rear arches and both front and rear valances.

Also check the B-posts and closing panels for the rear doors. New-old stock panels do occasionally surface, but a good selection of remanufactured panels and repair sections is also available from companies such as Ex-Pressed Steel Panels (01535 632721, www.steelpanels.co.uk).

ENGINE

The first signs of trouble from a Kent engine will be noisy valve gear, usually down to worn rockers, cam followers and ultimately the camshaft itself. If the extent of the wear has spread to the latter, then a top-end rebuild is the only remedy, although the camshaft itself is housed within the block.

Worn timing chains also give trouble – listen for a rattling noise emanating from the front of the engine – but compared to these potential problems, it’s worn rings and bores that will cost the most money to fix. Fumes from the filler cap and blue smoke from the exhaust should give the game away, meaning a bottom-end rebuild is required.

Worn synchromesh is the first sign of trouble on manual gearboxes, along with it jumping out of top gear. Listen for droning or whining differentials as they don’t like high mileages – after 100,000 miles they’ll be in need of a rebuild.

RUNNING GEAR

Suspension can get saggy, especially the rear, but all the basic components are either available new or can be refurbished relatively easily. Rear hub bearings are a tricky to replace, requiring 1200lb of pressure to press them out and the same to get the new ones in. So make sure there’s no play there by jacking up the rear of the car and rocking the top and bottom of each wheel to see if there is any movement.

All MkIIs were fitted with a steering box, which is not as precise as a rack-and-pinion setup, so expect up to an inch of movement at the steering wheel before the road wheels join in. However, the steering box can be rebuilt if there’s too much play or tight spots. An extremely vague steering response can often be attributed to worn inner track rod arms, as the ends wear prematurely. Replacements are becoming difficult to find, so check carefully when viewing a prospective purchase.

Poor rear brakes can often be attributed to rear adjuster cogs failing, in turn meaning that the auto-adjust doesn’t work. New discs and pads are available, but any pulling to the side under braking points to a binding caliper.

INTERIOR

Decent interior trim is extremely difficult to find, so don’t underestimate the task of bringing a tired interior up to scratch. Seat frames can break and both trim panels and carpet sets often get damaged over the years, so bear all these potential bargaining points in mind.

OUR VERDICT

Everything that attracted 1960s buyers still holds true today. Crisp styling, stout engines, smooth gearboxes and perky handling are the order of the day, regardless of model, while almost any mechanical malady you’re likely to encounter can be addressed relatively easily and cheaply. Bodywork issues are a different matter however, so don’t necessarily dismiss cars with good bodies but rough and ready running gear.

FORD CORTINA MK3 REVIEW

Ford

Ford’s 1970s fleet favourite makes an excellent family classic...

Early cars greeted the driver with a fabulous angled dashboard, coupled with sunken gauges and fake wood on the top models. Later cars had a squarer dash inspired by the Granada, which would also feature in the Cortina MkIV. A MkIII will never set the world on fire in terms of how it drives, yet the almost American trait of leaning into corners can be fun if you know where the limits are. The Transatlantic feel is further perpuated by the soft suspension, which can start to feel disconcertingly floaty over rough surfaces, especially if past its best. 1.3-litre cars feel sluggish on the road – with a 0-60 time of about 20 seconds – but the overhead-cam-engined models feel more urgent and the two-litre Pinto can sprint to 60mph in about 11 seconds if required. Brakes are well-specced for the models.

When you’ve finished stamping on all the pedals, the MkIII is a sensible family classic that will also give a lot of fun. Just make sure you have Bowie on the eight-track. It will make you love it even more.

VITAL STATISTICS

FORD CORTINA MKIII 2000GXL

Engine 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 98bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 111lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed 100mph

0-60mph 11sec

Consumption 25mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

This is a mass market car of the 1970s so, predictably, rust is likely to be a major issue. Check front and rear valances, sills, door bottoms and jacking points first – these are the main enemies of Cortina longevity. Front wings go around their leading corners and towards the trailing edges. So, check this, the lower part of the screen pillars and the bulkhead underneath. Also investigate the lower rear corners, as rust from here will easily spread to the adjacent sill area. Door pillar bases, the fuel filler neck and boot floor are other common rot traps, as are the rear wheelarches, where double-skinning means water can pool. Also around this area, the bottoms of the rear wings can totally disintegrate due to road grot. Because many Cortinas will have led hard lives, it makes sense to check everywhere. If there’s metal, there’s potential for nasties.

The estate shell, roof, and rear panels are shared with the MkIV and MkV estates, so any of these panels advertised for the later cars will fit. The post-1975 dashboard is also common to the fourth and fifth generation models.

ENGINE

Kent engines (1.3) are known for noisy tappets. They can also fume from under the filler cap due to piston/ring wear and if you hear an intermittent clacking from the engine, it means the cam followers are wearing out, which will eventually wreck the camshaft itself. This is an engine-out job to put right.

Pinto-engined cars (1.6 and 2.0) will be easiest to source but will need most attention upon inspection. Oil must be changed every 5000 miles; failure to do so can lead to a clogged oil spray bar, oil starvation, and eventually rapid camshaft wear.

Pinto timing belts must be renewed at 30,000 miles. The best all-round bet is probably the 2.0, combining modern performance with relatively reasonable economy and an enviable parts supply. On all engines, look for signs of blue exhaust smoke under acceleration, denoting a worn-out engine that will either need rebuilding or replacing.

ELECTRICS

Many of these cars will have been modified by previous owners, to varying levels of competence. If that’s the case, make sure everything has been done properly. Take a close look at the electrics in particular.

RUNNING GEAR

Four-speed boxes are generally reliable, although as high mileages are racked up, synchromesh will start to disappear. Jumping out of top gear under acceleration can also happen. Many have fitted five-speed boxes from Sierras for relaxed cruising.

INTERIOR

There are too many trim variations and model year changes to go into in depth with this guide, but make sure everything is there and in good order as much model-specific trim is unavailable and will be hard to replicate.

OUR VERDICT

You either want to feel eight years old again or you want to be Gene Hunt. The Ford Cortina MkIII will do both, and turn heads at the same time. This is one of those cars that just seems to perfectly encapsulate the year in which it was born, with flamboyant colour schemes, interiors that often flout the boundaries of taste and a pervading sense that the quality is not all it could be. This fashion victim status does make Cortina MkIIIs extremely funky now, especially for a generation discovering old re-runs of The Sweeney via Life on Mars. Away from the glitterball persona, a nice third generation Cortina will draw the crowds far more effectively than any Porsche, for people actually remember them when they were common. Every fill-up, meal stop, and shopping trip becomes a chance to meet new people, who will regale you with tales of whenlong-lost friends used to own one. A once-common classic like a Cortina is an easy way to make new friends – but beware if you’re introvert.

The Ford Cortina MkIII is arguably the original rep-mobile. The ‘Coke bottle’ side profile replaced the more angular lines of previous Cortinas, and the range expanded to replace the outgoing Corsair at the same time. During a seven-year production life, myriad models were available, from two-door saloons through estates to Crayford-modified convertibles. There was – and still is – a Cortina MkIII for everybody, although it is believed only a thousand or so now survive – a quite shocking figutre for a car that sold well over a million. Thanks to Ford standardisation, mechanical parts are still plentiful, although you’ll probably struggle a lot more finding replacement panels. The cars are cheap to run, simple to look after too and can easily be worked on at home. Just as family Fords should be.

FORD CORTINA MK4 REVIEW

Ford

By the time Ford launched the Cortina MKIV in autumn 1976 Britain was used to mid-range Fords being market leaders. Ford thus wisely played it safe; choosing to reskin the MK3 rather than create a car from scratch. The car had been previewed some months earlier by Ford of Germany’s Taunus, which was identical to the Cortina in almost every way. A popular fleet car and the most popular new car in the UK throughout production, numbers were decimated by the contempt of familiarity and the curse of daily use, but several Ford MKIV Cortinas still survive.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine - 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power - 98bhp@5200rpm

Torque - 111lb/ft@3500rpm

Top Speed - 100mph

0-60mph – 11 seconds

Economy – 24 mpg (urban cycle)

Gearbox – 4 speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Unless you bought an estate, the bodyshell was one aspect of Cortina MKIV that broke with the MK3 (Estates used the same shell). The sharp suit of the MKIV was ideal for the late 70s; where the MK3 was transatlantic in the extreme, the MKIV was ideal for the sales rep who wanted to break from this tradition and be individual…for about thirty seconds. It’s a mass market 1970s car, so they do rust. Check the valances, sills, doors, and jacking points first – the enemies of Cortina longevity. The fuel filler neck, scuttle, and boot floor are other common rot traps, but as many Cortinas will have had a hard life in past years as a family or fleet car it makes sense to check everywhere. If there’s metal, there’s potential for nasties!

Engines

By and large, the range is the same as was proved in the MK3 – Kents and Pintos, with the addition of the German Cologne V6 in 2.3 litre form. Parts will be easy to source, as all these engines were used in other Ford products from the Fiesta and Escort to the Granada. Kent engines (1.3) are known for noisy tappets. Cologne V6s are also tappetty, but the main issue is the fibre timing gears, the teeth of which can break. Steel replacements are available and commonly fitted. The Pinto (1.6 and 2.0) is most common but also the one which needs most attention paying upon inspection. Oil must be changed every 5000 miles; failure to do so can lead to a clogged oil spray bar, oil starvation, and eventually rapid camshaft wear. Pinto timing belts must be changed at 30000 miles. Best all round bet is probably the 2.0; combining modern performance with relatively reasonable economy and an enviable parts supply.

Running Gear

Again, this was carried straight over from the MK3 – a proven drivetrain which gives few issues in service. In addition, the fact that parts were common to Cortinas III, IV, and 80 ensures that there is a healthy stock of spares for those who may need them. Four speed boxes are reliable, but many owners have fitted 5 speed boxes from Sierras in place of the original. The design of this box can leave 5th starved of oil if the level isn’t maintained – check it regularly! The differential itself poses no issues, but the casing has been known to rust. The resultant leaks can lead to the diff running dry, so keep an eye on the oil level in the diff too. Front ball joints and track rod ends can wear; check for heavy steering on the test drive. Worn void bushes on the rear trailing arms can adversely affect handling – replace with poly bushes; rubber ones have a short life span.

Interior

You get the picture by now; a late MK3 Cortina carry-over. The MKIV used the same dashboard as the 1975 MK3 facelift, so from the driver’s seat was a familiar place for those changing their company cars. Door trims and seats were similar, and whilst the interior was two inches longer than in the MK3, it retained a similar feel due to the amount of carry-over items. It’s a fleet Ford, so unsurprisingly there’s a trim level for everybody from the newest salesman on the firm (Base) to the fleet manager (Ghia). Two-doors are rare, so trim for these may be harder to source.

OUR VERDICT

Most people looking to buy a Cortina will do so out of sentiment; your brother, your dad, your granddad, your next door neighbour, or your favourite schoolteacher will have owned one. It might have been a 1.6L on the firm, or a metallic 2.3 Ghia bought as a retirement treat. Cars like this; street furniture which has long been forgotten, are bought to inspire memories and make one feel about eight years old again.

There’s more. A nice Cortina will draw the crowds far more effectively than any Porsche, for people actually remember them when they were common. Every fill-up, every meal stop, every shopping trip becomes a chance to meet new people. A once-common classic like a Cortina is the easiest way to make new friends – beware if you’re introvert!

FORD CORTINA MK5 REVIEW

Ford

The last of the line, the Cortina 80 would herald the end for one of the most popular cars in British history...

Meet the old fleet car, same as the old one. More a facelift than a wholly new car, the Ford Cortina 80 (Or MK5 as everybody knew it) was a thorough upgrading of the previous MKIV. Whilst similar inside and out, few panels were shared – even the roof was a new, flatter panel. Designed for fleets, Ford Cortinas are reliable, roomy, sensible classics which can be enjoyed by the whole family. Families enjoyed them new, too.

Bodywork

As with the MKIV, check the door bottoms, the sills, both front and rear valance and the bulkhead. Whilst many Cortinas have led hard lives and may have become crumbly elsewhere, these are the classic rot spots for a Cortina 80. Also keep an eye on the boot floor and fuel filler area, if these have rotted out it’s bad news for the chassis, for they cover areas which were never rustproofed when new. As with the MKIV, the estate body dated back to the MK3 Cortina; panels are thus not unduly difficult to source.

Engines

Tried and tested units all; from the 1.3 Kent through Pinto to the 2.3 Cologne V6 – all however were modified to produce more power. Due to the ubiquity of these engines, parts should be simple to source in all cases. Both the Kent and Cologne are known for tappets, with fibre-tooth timing gears an additional cause for concern on the Cologne. The 1.6 and 2.0 Pintos need regular oil changes to prevent premature camshaft wear, and the timing belts need changing every 30000 miles. We recommend the 2.0 as the best compromise between economy and performance.

Running Gear

Again, this was carried straight over from the MK3 – a proven drivetrain which gives few issues in service. In addition, the fact that parts were common to Cortinas III, IV, and 80 ensures that there is a healthy stock of spares for those who may need them. Sierra 5 speed gearboxes – a common modification – need to be kept well topped up with oil; 5th gear is prone to oil starvation if forgotten. The differential casing rusts, causing leaks which can lead to a dry diff – watch the oil level there too. Heavy steering indicates worn track rod ends and ball joints, whereas sloppy handling is caused by worn void bushed on the rear trailing arms. Rubber replacements are not long lived; the poly bushes are a wiser investment.

Interior

The interior remained largely unchanged from the MKIV – and thus, unchanged from that used in the last of the MK3s. There are several models to choose from; from 2 door Base right up to Ghia S – check the trim, as whilst Cortinas are still easy to get parts for, it may be difficult to find trim in rare colours or specs. Note that there are few 2 door MKIVs or 80s left, so sourcing 2 door specific trim might not be terribly easy.

Why Should I Buy One?

There are two real reasons for buying a classic that in its day was seen as mundane. The first is nostalgia; we all know someone who had a ‘Tina and seeing one has the ability to make one feel six again. The second reason is pure sense; a car designed for daily use by family will still be perfectly capable of doing that job thirty years on; the Cortina makes an excellent daily classic for all the family. Should you be interested – and we could well understand why – be prepared for onlookers to gawp in amazement and for every stop to turn into a discussion!

Vital Statistics

Engine - 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power - 102bhp@5200rpm

Torque - 114lb/ft@3500rpm

Top Speed - 102mph

0-60mph – 10.3 seconds

Economy – 24 mpg (urban cycle)

Gearbox – 4 speed manual

FORD ESCORT MK1 REVIEW

Ford

Launched in January 1968 as a replacement for the Anglia and using much of the same technology – MacPherson strut front suspension, a leaf-sprung live rear axle, slick-shifting four-speed all-synchromesh gearbox and pushrod four-cylinder engine – the Ford Escort was a roomier, sleeker package and available with two or four doors, as an estate or as a van. It had sharper rack and pinion steering, while Ford engineers spent considerable time eradicating Noise, Vibration and Harshness.

At launch, the first cars came in two- or four-door form, had 12in wheels, and were powered by 1098cc or 1298cc pushrod ‘Kent’ engines producing up to a whopping 57bhp. If that was too much, a 939cc version was available for some export markets.

It was clear that the nimble, balanced chassis could handle more power. Thus the Twin Cam was the first ‘interesting’ one, incorporating the Lotus-Ford Twin Cam engine used in the Elan and Lotus Cortina, built at Halewood and launched at a list price of £1162.78. Production really started in May 1968, with the quick ones coming under the remit of Ford Advanced Vehicle Operations. As well as extra power and those wide-lip front wings, AVO Escorts had radius arms parallel with the front halves of the leaf springs on the rear axle to eliminate axle tramp.

The RS1600 replaced the Twin Cam in 1970 as the hottest model in the range, using the new Ford Cosworth 16-valve BDA (Belt Drive Type A), a close relative of the chain-drive FVA F3 engine described as ‘half a DFV’. A much more aggressive device than the Lotus, it produced 120bhp in standard trim and up to 240bhp in 2-litre works form. In 1972, the block material was changed to alloy, allowing up to 1975cc. From 1970, the Mexico, produced like the RS1600 in the new AVO factory at Aveley in Essex, was essentially an RS1600 with an 86bhp 1600GT pushrod engine.

The Mexico capitalised on Ford’s win on the 16,000- mile London-Mexico rally with a team of Escorts powered by over-bored versions of the pushrod engine, and entered as ‘1850 GTs’. Hannu Mikkola won in FEV 1H and sister cars took third, fifth and sixth places. If the RS1600 was too frantic and expensive – and the Mexico a bit underpowered – the 1973 RS2000 was the answer. It used the larger, heavier ‘Pinto’ 2-litre in essentially the same car, for an understressed 100bhp and more torque, was German-built and with the German-type four-speed gearbox. This needed an electric fan, as it no longer had room for a mechanical one.

In 1975, the Mk1 was replaced by ‘Brenda’, as the Mk2 was termed during development. Under the square-rigged reskin, the structure and mechanicals were the same, except that the rear suspension had changed to place the rear dampers more vertically – in fact, the last Mk1s had been built on this updated floorpan. Estates (now weirdly popular among the drag race fraternity) and vans kept the Mk1 sheet metal from the door pillars back. Although there was the specialised BDA-powered RS1800, mostly made to turn into rally cars, the RS2000 would not return until 1976. RS Mexicos and 1600 Sports got a 1593cc version of the Pinto instead of the 1599cc ‘Kent’, while a base 1098cc Popular made an appearance. The model range was phased out in July 1980, when the rear-drive Escort was replaced by the front-drive Mk3. A nation of motorsport enthusiasts gnashed its collective teeth.

FORD ESCORT RS1600 REVIEW

Ford

It was the Ford Escort that really put Ford on the rallying map, proving capable of winning World Championship events from 1968, when the Twin Cam model was the works frontline rallycar, right through to 1981 when Ari Vatanen became World Rally Champion driving an Escort RS. In 1970 the Ford Twin Cam engine was replaced by a Cosworth BDA 16-valve unit to create the definitive Escort rally car, the RS1600, though the engine was, in fact, homologated at 1,601cc to enable future enlargement up to the 2-litre class capacity limit. The first full 2-litre engines were homologated in 1972 and in works trim produced 235-240bhp. In this ultimate form the Escort RS1600 proved good enough to win the RAC Rally three times on the trot between 1972 and 1974, as well as a host of other World Championship events.

FORD ESCORT RS2000 REVIEW

Ford

Introduced in June 1973, the Ford Escort RS2000 was very similar to the rest of the Escort range, and was billed to be a half-way house between the extreme RS1600 and the reliable Mexico.

It used the same body shell as the RS1600 and Mexico, but had a different engine. It was a Ford 2 litre Pinto unit and developed 100bhp, 2 more bhp than it did in the Cortina. The engine was not designed to fit into the Escort, so to make it suitable Ford had to remove the engine driver cooling fan and replace it with a thermostatically controlled one.

The car wasn’t launched in Britain until October 1973 as the first 2000 built were reserved for the European market.

Escorts have a great rallying tradition and 5000 RS2000’s were built in order for Ford to achieve homologation rules for Group 1 rallying. The amount of Escort RS2000s built is up for dispute however, as Ford only made 3500 RS2000’s in Britain. Ford has said they built the remaining cars required for homologation in Germany but there is very little evidence for this.

One RS2000 estate was built after a Mexico estate was converted. The mark 1 RS2000 stopped being built in 1974, the same time the rest of the MK1 Escorts were discontinued.

The RS2000 came back in 1976 and was based on the new Mark 2 Escort. It used a new 2 litre engine powering the rear wheels, via a gearbox situated near the back for better weight distribution. The second generation RS2000 became infamous for its ‘droop snoot’ nose. This mark 2 RS2000 stopped production in 1978.

The RS2000 Ford Escort was not seen again until 1991 and was radically different from any other RS2000 that had been before. This new RS2000 was based on the mark 5 escort, and was front wheel drive. No Escort RS2000 had been front wheel drive before this one, and was done so to decrease costs whilst still offering a fast car.

Hardcore fans may have not been convinced at first, but with a 130mph top speed the new RS2000 certainly had the right credentials. The 2 litre engine lifted out of the Sierra produced 150 bhp thanks to electronic fuel injection and a Ford engine management system. It was visibly different from more mundane Escort models of the time thanks to bonnet bumps and Tecno alloy wheels.

A 4x4 system was offered in 1994, splitting the 150 bhp between all four wheels. 40% went to the front and 60% went to the rear. Although this may seem like a good idea, real world figures took a hit as the 0-60 mph time went from 8.3 to 9.1 seconds and fuel consumption increased. The added weight of the four wheel drive system was blamed for the decrease in performance and economy.

December 1996 saw the RS2000 discontinued, as Ford pressed on with development for the Escorts replacement, the Focus.

Written by Murray Scullion

FORD FIESTA MK1 REVIEW

Ford

Ford was well aware that the market for small, cheap hatchbacks was growing rapidly and in 1976 it announced the arrival of the front-wheel drive Fiesta. Simplicity was the watchword with a lightweight steel monocoque body and a range of peppy, economical engines. A huge number rolled off the German, Spanish, and Dagenham production lines.
It’s this simple approach that makes the Fiesta so appealing today and it is easy to see why so many survive, albeit in widely varying condition. The fact that there is a trim level and engine option to suit everyone is a bonus too – and if it was sportiness you wanted there was always the lively XR2. There were some impressive special editions as well, the two-tone ‘Sandpiper’ being particularly lovely.

XR2s aside, the Fiesta isn’t about performance or pin-sharp handling. But what it does do extremely well is provide roomy and practical transport and an impressively tidy driving experience. Unless you rarely venture out of town, the smallest engines do feel a little underpowered, but the 1.3-litre unit is more than capable of pushing the Fiesta along in modern traffic. Leave the urban sprawl and you’ll notice that there’s a degree of entertainment to be had too.
The steering is light and direct and the combination of a composed ride and secure handling means tackling a twisty road is a pleasure. The comfortable cabin is a real plus too, and while it might be simple, everything is within easy reach and the driving position is spot-on.

Run-of-the-mill model prices have changed little in recent times. Those at the very bottom of the scale show little sign of increasing and with the cost of re-commissioning likely to exceed the car’s value, these are probably best considered as parts donors only. Avoid any cars that have been modified or tampered with by DIYers and boy racers. The condition can vary widely and there are a few optimistic vendors out there hoping to cash-in on the Fiesta’s classic status, but you should be wary of paying over the odds. The best advice is to spend as much as you can afford on a cherished, rust-free example benefitting from everything the Fiesta has to offer without the need for costly restoration.

VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Fiesta MKI

Engine 1598cc/4-cyl/OHV/Bosch injection

Power (bhp@rpm) 84bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 91lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed 106mph

0-60mph 9.4sec

Consumption 32mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rust can break out just about anywhere on the Fiesta and you’ll need to pay close attention to the tops of the front wings, the wheel arches, sills, and front valance. All of the main panels are susceptible to rot, so having a magnet handy will help you avoid being landed with someone else’s previous bodgery. Few examples will have escaped the need for replacement front suspension turrets, so be extra vigilant here and around the inner wings. Replacement panels are getting scarce so a hunt for decent second-hand parts will be needed.

A thorough check of the underside is advisable as boot floors and inner sills can rot through. Lift up carpets and mats to ensure water leaks haven’t accelerated the process. Take a good look around the front and rear suspension mountings as well as corrosion here has caused many a Fiesta to fall foul of the MoT tester.

It is under the bonnet where the simplicity of the Fiesta really pays off, and while there are some checks to be done, you’ll be hard pressed to find a more DIY-friendly car. The Kent and Valencia engines ranged in size from the 957cc unit up to the punchy 1.6-litre mill fitted to the XR2. General wear and tear is the main thing to look for, including noisy valvegear, rattling timing chains, and exhaust smoke caused by worn valve guides. Furred-up cooling systems eventually lead to headgasket failure so look for signs of recent overheating, and check for niggling oil leaks, though these are easy to cure. A blocked crankcase breather system can suck fumes in the cabin, so its worth checking here first before assuming it is something more serious.

ENGINE

Carburettor engines were fitted with Solex units when new, but these were notorious for starting problems and many owners have replaced them with Webers. So a non-standard carburettor isn’t necessarily a warning to look for other modifications! Poor starting may also be cured relatively easily by a swap from the original specification.

Bosch mechanical fuel injection was a feature of the six-cylinder 220SE and 300SE/SEL models. It’s pretty reliable but is not really a DIY job when it goes wrong. Getting it fixed can often prove very expensive. Some recommend retarding the ignition timing on injected engines as a safety measure now that there’s no more high-octane leaded petrol.

RUNNING GEAR

Four-speed manual gearboxes were very robust, so it is really just a case of looking out for tired synchromesh and excessive noise caused by worn pinion shaft bearings. An obstructive gearshift is often due to worn gear linkages or a clutch in need of replacement, but both are cheap to fix. Worn differential bearings will cause a noticeable whine on the test drive, but they can soldier on for many miles without needing replacement if you can put up with the noise.

BRAKES

The suspension set-up is simple and uses MacPherson struts at the front. Sagging springs and dampers and worn bushes are likely ailments, but bringing them up to scratch isn’t costly. Rear suspension arm rubbers wear, but it isn’t a difficult fix. The disc/drum brakes aren’t likely to be stretched by the performance, so regular maintenance should have kept things working well. Rear brakes can seize on lightly-used cars, an overhaul is straightforward and cheap. Check, too, for play in the rack-and-pinion steering and noisy wheel bearings. Lastly, the Pepperpot alloys fitted to XR2 models are desirable on all models. But the XR2’s standard-issue plastic wheeltrims are all but extinct, so if you find them, cherish them!

INTERIOR

Interior trim is getting hard to source now, so don’t underestimate the cost needed to bring a tatty cabin up to scratch. Lower trim levels were incredibly basic on the early models, even down to plastic seats, and are best avoided. A smattering

of comfort features enhanced GL models, but
it’s the Ghia that provides the most comfortable cabin. Velour seats, four-spoke steering wheel,
rev counter, and faux-woodgrain trim were all standard. The centre consoles fitted to these higher-spec models can vibrate greatly, upsetting modern CD players, so a Ford-branded cassette deck is a bonus, or re-install original equipment when you find it for sale. Specialist re-trimmers can tackle worn seats and carpets, but it’s easier and cheaper to choose a car with a complete and original interior.

OUR VERDICT

Whether it is a first classic that you’re after, or a simple runaround with a bit of character the Fiesta will almost certainly fit the bill. There are plenty to choose from and prices remain accessible for those on a budget. A bit of care is needed when buying – there are plenty of bangers in the classifieds that have barely yards left in them before the crusher beckons – but be prepared to look at plenty of cars and this popular hatch will prove a reliable companion.

Ford was well aware that the market for small, cheap hatchbacks was growing rapidly and in 1976 it announced the arrival of the front-wheel drive Fiesta. Simplicity was the watchword with a lightweight steel monocoque body and a range of peppy, economical engines. A huge number rolled off the German, Spanish, and Dagenham production lines.

It’s this simple approach that makes the Fiesta so appealing today and it is easy to see why so many survive, albeit in widely varying condition. The fact that there is a trim level and engine option to suit everyone is a bonus too – and if it was sportiness you wanted there was always the lively XR2. There were some impressive special editions as well, the two-tone ‘Sandpiper’ being particularly lovely.

Classic Ford Fiesta Review

Ford

In the early Seventies Ford knew the winds of change in the car scene were going to affect it. The Mini and Fiat 500 had proved small cars could be popular, and now other manufacturers were joining in on the action, thanks to the Fiat 127 and Renault 5. However, it took five years before the Tom Tjaarda-penned creation reached UK dealerships (some time after left-hand drive markets), by which time Vauxhall, Volkswagen, Chrysler and Austin were already muscling in on the small car turf.

Mk1.

To start with, engines ranged from 1.0-litre to 1.6. It wasn’t until the 1.3-litre "crossflow" Supersport appeared in 1980 that enthusiastic drivers got the car they wanted. A year later, the XR2 appeared using a 1.6-litre version of the unit, which meant brisk performance (for the time). 105mph top speed a 0-60mph sprint of sub-10 seconds was achievable thanks to 83bhp. According to Autocar’s road test of the time: ‘Get it whizzing along country lanes, or grabbing the few overtaking opportunities that may exist in urban traffic, and one begins to wonder what might beat this responsive little car from A to B.’

Mk 2.

The Mk2 Fiesta appeared in 1982, and revisions focused on the styling. Engines were altered, too – not only did a diesel enter the range but the old 1.3-litre unit was replaced with a similarly sized CVH powerplant. The 1.0-litre and 1.2-litre were carried over from the previous series.

The XR2 now had an Escort XR3-derived 1.6-litre engine, which meant 96bhp and 0-60mph in 9.5 seconds. You also got a rather extravagant bodykit, but the steering garnered praise from Autosport: "The neat little steering wheel allows ultra-rapid response on the driver’s part, and there is almost a touch of the go-kart about its reactions."

In 1986 the XR2 was improved with a new cylinder head and carburettor.

Mk3.

By 1989 the old Fiesta design was looking creaky in response to ever-stronger competition from Peugeot, Fiat, Vauxhall and Japanese companies. For the first time a five-door variant was offered, but engines mainly stayed the same as the Mk2. However, a 1.8-litre version was now available.

The big news, however, was that the Fiesta was now open for sportiness in a way that had been avoided in previous versions. The fuel-injected XR2i appeared in 1989, but by 1992 it had 16 valves and a new era of engines – Zetec.

The Eighties penchant for turbocharging had passed the Fiesta by, and it wasn’t until 1990 that Ford’s city car got boosted. It used the same CVH engine as the 1989 XR2i, now fed by fuel injection, and yielded a 133mph top speed, 0-60mph dash of 7.9 seconds. The RS Turbo was famed for its tricky to master handling, as James May – then working for Autocar – explained: "The sudden switch from compliance to contrariness pretty much sums up the RS Turbo’s handling: driving a the limit means staying just the right side of a very fine line and transgressing it at your peril. But without wishing to seem too kinky, it’s a pleasurable sort of pain."

The RS Turbo was replaced with the RS1800 in 1992, which used a 1.8-litre Zetec engine that was good for 130bhp. The XR2i name died in 1994 as insurance costs rained on its parade. A new era, under the Si nomenclature, beckoned.

Mk4

While broadly similar to the Mk3, 1995’s Mk4 featured revised underpinnings, which helped it find favour with British buyers. Zetec engines were used throughout the range, although the Kent 1.3-litre engine still persisted in lower-spec cars. The sportiest Fiesta was now known as the Zetec. Handling was highly regarded. The well-regarded Puma used Fiesta underpinnings.

Mk5 (kind of)

By 1999 the Fiesta’s architecture was ten years old, but nips and tucks kept it competitive, and still buyers flocked to it. The highest-spec engine was now the Zetec S, which allowed for 118mph from its 101bhp, 1.6-litre engine. This version lasted until 2002, when the Fiesta was comprehensively refreshed.

FORD FIESTA XR2 REVIEW

Ford

The first fast Ford Fiesta was built from 1976 to 1983 and was based on the Fiesta Mk1. The XR2 was designed to be fast but at a reasonable price.

The design for the new XR2 was to be simple, and no major changes to the transmission or chassis were allowed, but it had to be capable of reaching more than 100mph.

The engine was allowed to be changed however, as the XR2 had a 1600cc Kent engine which was already in use in America. This engine produced 84bhp and could do a sub 10 second 0-60 time. It also achieved what it set out to do, producing a top speed of 105 mph. Costing £5500, Ford sold 20,000 Mk1 XR2s.

Mechanically speaking, the car also featured ventilated front discs and uprated suspension. The suspension also made a difference to the look of the car, as it lowered the ride height. Wheels and tyres were also changed and the new XR2 featured pepper pot alloys matched to 185x60 tyres.

Square headlights and indicators were added as well as the addition of spot lights and a set of over riders for the bumpers. These changes helped differentiate the XR2 from regular Fiesta.

The Mk2 was introduced in 1983 and was billed to be an even faster Ford. It still had a 1600cc engine but it was a different unit from the original XR2. This engine was sourced from the XR3 Escort, produced 96bhp and ran to a top speed of 112mph.

Oddly for a hot hatch, alloy wheels were not standard on this model. The same pepper pot alloys from the Mk1 were available as an option. To separate itself from a regular Fiesta, it included a comprehensive bodykit, featuring a rear-mounted spoiler that went around the rear window.

FORD GRANADA MKI REVIEW

Ford

The elegant and long-anticipated replacement for the largely unloved Ford Zephyr/Zodiac Mk IV was once a familiar sight in corporate car parks, but catching a glimpse of a Mk I Ford Granada of any description today is something of an event.

Spy an estate (or, even more impressively, a coupé) and you’ll be tweeting about it for weeks. Happen upon an early Consul (as the base version was known until 1975) and we doubt anyone will believe you without photographic evidence, such is their rarity. The reasons for this apparent scarcity are many and varied (at least one was sacrificed in the famous opening TV title sequence of The Professionals), and while rust no doubt claimed a lot of them, we suspect many more met a grisly end on a banger racing track of some description. Owning one today, then, will definitely set you aside from the masses.

So, early Granadas may be super-rare, but they’re mechanically simple and, since they were big, spacious cars back in the day, serve as a handy family holdall today, with bags of space inside and a boot big enough to swallow an aircraft carrier.

Elegance, prestige, luxury, effortless performance and spacious comfort Ford’s contemporary sales literature for the Ford Granada promised all this and more, although whether anyone ever managed to wring the (also promised) 30mpg out of the four cylinder cars is possibly open to debate.

Unless you’re lucky enough to find a genuine 5.0-litre V8 Perana Mk I Granada (which was only ever sold in South Africa), your engine options are simple – four cylinders or six. Of the former, the earlier V4 has received considerable bad press over the years for its perceived unreliability, but it’s actually a much smoother engine than the later, stronger Pinto.

Essex V6s are the most desirable engine options, and it’s practically de rigeur for the big, handsome coupé, preferably allied to the beautifully slurred C3 three-speed automatic gearbox. Don’t expect sports car handling to go with the lazy power, though – these are cars for cruising in.

Inside, the Mk I Granada is very much of an age, with plenty of wood trim on range-topping Ghias.

VITAL STATISTICS

MK I Ford Granada, 1972-1977

Engine 2994cc/V6/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 138bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 174lb ft@ 3000rpm

Top speed 113mph

0-60mph 10.5sec

Consumption 19.4mpg

Gearbox 3-spd automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rust is obviously a key problem area on any unrestored 1970s Ford, so make checking the usual places a matter of course. The higher-spec models do require particular attention, as corrosion can fester behind the profusion of chrome body embellishments, especially those fitted to the wheelarches and around the headlights/grille.

The generic door handles Ford used in the 1970s are known for their quirks. If a door won’t open unless you press the handle in before squeezing it up, then chances are it’s on its last legs. A door that persistently refuses to close, meanwhile, is usually as a result of the handle getting jammed in the open position, either through lack of use or from general wear and tear. This could point to broken or damaged innards, but try dismantling the assembly and re-greasing everything first.

ENGINE

Choose your engine wisely: both the 2.5-litre and 3.0-litre Essex V6s enjoy plentiful parts back-up, as does the 2.0-litre Pinto ‘four’, but the earlier (pre-1975) 2.0-litre V4, while arguably the sweeter of the two four-cylinder engines, has nowhere near the same level of support for non-service parts.

ELECTRICS

It’s a tricky and fiddly job, but it’s well worth checking the hexagonal oil pump drives, which connect the oil pump to a gear at the base of the distributor, for wear. Access is tricky and requires the timing to be re-adjusted afterwards, but the ultimate price for neglecting this is an oil-starved engine. While you’re there, it might be worth replacing the condensor and points with electronic ignition for more efficient running, even when hot.

RUNNING GEAR

Noisy tappets can usually be silenced by professional re-adjustment. If not, it can indicate that a previous owner has been less than pedantic about treating the car to regular oil changes, and/or has repeatedly used poor quality or recycled oil. More seriously, this can also point to blocked engine oil ways, which may necessitate a partial strip-down in order to remedy completely.

Contemporary magazine road test reports revealed that Mk I Granadas were known for their relatively inefficient ventilation and heating systems even when they were new, but today can indicate either a leaking matrix (check for wet carpets in the front footwells) or a simple airlock. If it’s the latter, brave DIY-ers may be able to release the lock, although it would be safer for a garage to rectify, given the high temperatures involved.

Discoloured and/or pungent gearbox oil is bad news, suggesting contamination or lack of maintenance, and can signify the beginning of the end for the otherwise bomb-proof C3 three-speed auto. The four-speed all-synchromesh manual is pretty much indestructible, and while driveline slop is rare, it is usually attributable to worn propshaft UJs.

BRAKES

Front brake issues are almost always as a result of simple lack of use, with chief among the most common problems being seized calipers and corroded discs. A rock hard brake pedal can be symptomatic of a perished vacuum hose, but if a subsequent strip-down reveals the hose to appear sound, the servo is most likely on its way out, and will need replacing. An uneven ride height, meanwhile, often points to a simple broken coil spring – replacements are cheap to buy and easy to fit, however, even for an experienced DIY-er.

INTERIOR

Mint early interiors are becoming increasingly scarce, so beware any car that requires major work inside. What few parts are available are usually very expensive – it’s often cheaper (if little easier), to source a complete donor car.

OUR VERDICT

The Mk I Granada has a magical certain something that makes it a truly appealing classic proposition. Part of its appeal must surely stem from its various starring roles in gritty 1970s British TV cop shows such as The Sweeney and The Professionals, but it’s a great car in its own right, being at once handsome (especially so in coupé guise), lazily powerful and hugely practical. Mechanical parts back-up is very good on all models (with the possible exception of the V4-engined cars) and the engines themselves are simple and largely bullet-proof. In fact, your biggest problem is probably going to be actually sourcing a car: well-preserved Grannies are available reasonably readily through the clubs, of course, but most projects will have succumbed to tin worm or banger ignominy by now. Find a good one, though, and you won’t regret it.

FORD GT 40 REVIEW

Ford

Based on Eric Broadley's Lola GT, the original Ford GT40 was spawned by the Dearborn giants ambition to beat Ferrari at Le Mans, a feat it duly achieved for the first time in 1966. The GT40 project had commenced three years previously, following Fords failed attempt to buy into Ferrari, and was based at the Ford Advanced Vehicles plant at Slough, England. The GT40 first ran competitively in 1964, but failed at Le Mans that year and again in 1965. That first sweet Le Mans victory would fall to the 7-litre MkII, with victory the following year going to a US-built MkIV J car. (The GT40 MkIII was the British-built road-going version). A decade on, and the GT40s status as an all-time great classic sportscar had been firmly established, leading to an increased demand for unmolested originals and the start of a replica-building industry. Perhaps the only surprise concerning the emergence of a reconstituted official version is that it took Ford the best part of 40 years to get around to it. The new generation GT40 was developed by Ford's Special Vehicle Team Engineering department under the direction of John Coletti and Fred Goodnow. The composite body panels are unstressed, as on the original, but instead of the monocoque chassis construction used in the 1960s, SVT Engineering developed an all-new aluminium spaceframe combining extruded sections and panels. Doubling as fuel reservoirs, a pair of massive sills contributed much to the originals chassis stiffness, whereas the new GT40 relies on a centre-tunnel backbone that greatly improves ease of entry and exit. The suspension design is an advance on the originals, consisting of unequal-length control arms and a pushrod/bell-crank system acting on horizontally mounted coil spring/damper units. Braking is handled by six-piston, Alcon calipers with cross-drilled and ventilated discs all round. In defeating Ferraris more highly stressed V12s, Ford proved that the traditional American V8 possessed all that was necessary to compete at the cutting edge of international endurance racing. A far cry from the simple pushrod units of the 1960s, todays supercharged MOD 5.4-litre V8 produces 550bhp at 5,250rpm and 500lb/ft of torque at 3,250 revs figures on a par with those of the 7-litre engine that won at Le Mans in 1966 and 1967. The all-synchromesh six-speed transaxle uses ZF internals and was sourced from RBT Transmissions, whos founder Roy Butfoy had been a member of Fords racing team at Le Mans. The interior features leather-upholstered, Recaro bucket seats with aluminium ventilation grommets embedded into the panels. The instrument layout follows the originals, comprising analogue gauges and a large tachometer complemented by modern versions of the traditional toggle switches. Back in 1966, the Ford GT40 endurance racer became the first car to exceed 200mph along the Mulsanne straight at Le Mans. Matching that would be some achievement for the production road car, even allowing for nearly 40 years of technological progress. Tested for Motor Trend magazine by Indycar racing legend Bryan Herta, the new GT40 duly topped 200mph at Fords Kingman test facility in Arizona, emphatically demonstrating that it was indeed worthy of that famous name. About 28 examples of the new Ford GT have been built for the European market.

FORD LOTUS CORTINA REVIEW

Ford

Subtle isn’t really a word that can be used to describe the Ford Lotus Cortina. Sure, it lacks the complement of hideous spoilers that manufacturers use these days to signal that there’s something a bit hot under the bonnet of an ordinary saloon, but you’re still in no doubt that this is something special. The wide wheels certainly add a dashing touch, but it’s the low stance and that vivid green slash that shout "Out of the way, I’m coming through!" It looks like a race car, probably because that’s what it was. The twin-cam engine, based on Ford’s own four cylinder power unit, was developed for racing. Ford were looking to get into motorsport themselves, and did a deal with Colin Chapman of Lotus to build 1000 quick Cortinas with racing in mind.

To put the twin-cam Lotus engine into perspective, the most powerful Cortina available at the time of the Lotus’s launch was the GT, which had 78bhp. The Lotus developed 105bhp, or 115 in Special Equipment form. In a light car like the Cortina, this makes for formidable performance, with 60mph coming up in a touch less than ten seconds, with the engine finally running out of puff at 107mph.

At launch in 1963, this was a sensation. The suspension was not just dropped but re-engineered at the back, with upright coils replacing the leaf springs and an A-bracket helping locate the rear axle. It was very controversial and Ford quickly lost patience with it, replacing the complex set-up with conventional leaf-springs from 1965.

From the moment you coax the twin-cam Lotus engine into life, you know this isn’t going to be a pedestrian experience. It’s rorty and vocal, revving instantly as you blip the throttle. Moving away, the car at first feels reluctant – almost truculent – negotiating speed humps and traffic lights. Put your foot down below 3000rpm and you begin to wonder whether there’s something seriously wrong. The clutch is also heavy and snatchy. This doesn’t seem like much fun.

Keep your foot down, though, and the engine hits that sweet spot, launching the car down the road. Snatch another gear and the power just keeps on coming. Surely it must be topping the ton? A glance at the speedometer suggests otherwise – a mere 60mph. It’s quite remarkable just how much fun this car is without being outlandishly fast. It’s not so much the power, but the brutal, all-out delivery. Ease off and the engine spits and pops like a proper racer. Bury the throttle and a primeval growl under the bonnet assaults the senses, as the twin Webers greedily suck in air and fuel. In no way is this relaxing. It’s noisy and the gearing is almost ludicrously short, making motorway speeds far from effortless. But this isn’t a motorway car. It begs you to hurl it into the corners and keep your foot down as you head for the next one. Disc brakes up front help bleed the speed back off, and the steering, despite being by recirculating ball, is tight and communicative. It’s surprisingly easy to get the tyresto squeal, but not surprising at all that the car encourages you to drive this way. On public roads, we didn’t try to reach the limits of grip, but the naughty Cortina did make us get closer than we normally might. It’s hugely addictive and the ‘retrograde’ rear suspension doesn’t mute the experience even slightly.

Straight sections of road may be tedious and even uncomfortable at times, but when faced with a series of turns, the Lotus Cortina leaves you begging for more. Few cars plead with you to treat them in such a reckless and cavalier manner, and fewer still have comfortable seating for two adults in the back along with a large boot.

No wonder then that the Lotus Cortina lives on as one of the Blue Oval’s greatest icons.

In total, 3301 Lotus Cortina Mk1s were built. An old joke goes that of that number only 5000 remain, due to the number of copies.
The twin-cam engines were first built by JAP and then Villiers. Lotus famously moved to Hethel, Norfolk to have the capacity to build them in-house.

FORD MODEL A REVIEW

Ford

Introduced in December 1927, the new Model A Ford had a more complex design than the Model T but still had a broadly conventional 3.3-litre 4-cylinder 40bhp side-valve engine producing double the power of the Model T, 4-wheel brakes, and a now conventional 3-speed gearbox. Good for 65mph, the eagerly awaited Ford Model A had up-to-the-minute good looks, a choice of colours this time, and with the usual competitive pricing no fewer than 4,500,000 Model As were manufactured and sold in just four years. Surely the snappiest body style as offered today, the model became the chosen transport of such Hollywood stars as Douglas Fairbanks, Mary Pickford and the exotic Dolores Del Rio.

FORD MODEL T REVIEW

Ford

Introduced in October 1908, the Ford Model T had a simple 100'' wheelbase and a chassis which was both lightweight and durable, and continued in production with little basic change until May 1927, with over 15 million sold. Robust to the point of indestructability and built with top-grade vanadium steel, the Ford Model T used a two-speed planetary transmission. Developments included electric lighting in 1915, a switch from brass to a black-finished radiator in 1916, and optional electric starting from 1919. By the mid-Twenties competition prompted the introduction of balloon tyres, the option of wire wheels, and the availability of a range of different colours.

FORD MUSTANG REVIEW

Ford

A genuine American idol, the original Ford Mustang is still at the top of many classic car aficionado’s wish lists to this day. We look into buying the legend...

One of the most iconic cars of all time, the Ford Mustang was all things to all men when it debuted in 1964, offering real presence and plenty of horses to boot. In the first year of production, Ford sold more than 400,000 Mustangs, with a million sales reached by the end of the second year. For that pure Mustang experience, you need to go for one of the first-generation cars, built between ’64 and ’73, so that’s what we’re concentrating on here.

VITAL STATISTICS

1965 Ford Mustang 289

Engine 4735cc/8-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 271bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 312lb ft@3400rpm

Top speed 120mph

0-60mph 8sec

Consumption 15mpg

Gearbox 3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The Mustang’s chassis compares favourably with its contemporaries. Even so, all that grunt can still catch out an unwitting driver, particularly with the V8 models. Look for poorly-repaired accident damage – ill-fitting panels and bumpers are common telltales. Rippled metal under the bonnet also gives the game away, especially at the base of the suspension towers.

Rust can also be a problem, especially if previous repair work wasn’t up to scratch. Be especially wary of patched-up convertibles, as they have a more complex sill construction. Open-tops are also most likely to suffer from rotten floorpans. The driver’s footwell is prone to filling up with water and rusting beneath the carpets. New panels are available, but sheet metal is often used to make a swift repair. The bulkhead can also rot, as the air vents at the base of the windscreen can fill with water, leading to rusty carnage within. Most outer panels are available, although pattern parts can be fiddly to fit, so buying decent quality examples makes sense.

ENGINE

Neither the straight-six nor the V8 are stressed units, so they tend to go on forever if looked after. Leaks, blown gaskets and thick black oil are signs of neglect. Valve-seat recession is the first sign of wear on six-cylinder engines, but if cared for, this shouldn’t occur for at least 150,000 miles. V8s also last pretty much indefinitely, provided they haven’t been tuned and thrashed to within an inch of their lives.

The most common issue with Mustang engines is overheating, again due to dodgy maintenance. Make sure the radiator fan shroud is present, otherwise the radiator won’t get the flow of air it needs. Replacing the standard cast-iron manifolds with tubular items also raises temperatures under the hood.

RUNNING GEAR

Ford’s C4 three-speed automatic transmission was the most commonly used unit on Mustangs. Parts are easy to find, but check the transmission fluid – if it’s black or the level is low, then the ‘box is on the way out. The three-speed manual unit suffers from worn synchromesh and bearings, but again, most parts are available. Ford junked cable-driven and hydraulic clutches for the Mustang, fitting a mechanical unit instead. It’s reliable and strong, with the added bonus of being relatively cheap to fix.

Steering boxes are fairly hardy, but if it is worn beyond repair then new ones are available. Uneven tyre wear could be down to the suspension being out of kilter. If all is well on that score, then check the ride height – a sagging rear end suggests the rear leaf springs are due for renewal.

INTERIOR

All interior and exterior trim is available new, so the only worry on that score is the depth of your pockets. If the seats have seen better days, hang on to the original foam. New covers tend to be fiddly to fit to new foam bases, as they often don’t stretch enough. Seat frames can break, but you shouldn’t have too much trouble tracking down replacements.

Chrome trim quality was never that good when new, so don’t be put off by reproduction items – the fact that they are much cheaper than NOS items should compensate for any drop in quality.

OUR VERDICT

Steve McQueen, the undisputed King of Cool, drove a 1968 Mustang GT390 in Bullitt. The car chase in that movie was over nine minutes long and earned Frank P Keller an Oscar for film editing, with the Mustang playing a starring role. You don’t need to be a movie star to look sharp in a Mustang though – buy wisely and you’ll have one of the coolest cars on the road.