FORD PROBE REVIEW

Despite its name being the butt of many jokes the Probe is great cheap entry point into a classic coupé. Designed for Europeans by Americans and engineered by the Japanese, the futuristic looking Ford filled the two-door coupé market for the company. Two engines were available, a 2-litre straight four and a 2.5-litre V6. Both came from Mazda, as did the mechanicals. The probe is good-looking and well equipped – and they’re an absolute bargain.  

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VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Probe 2.5 V6

Engine 2497cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power 163bhp@5600rpm

Torque 160lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed 133mph

0-60mph 7.4sec

Economy 28mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

A common fault with the Probe is the pop-up headlamps. As with many 1990s coupés, if the front end of the car is damaged it can stop the headlamps from opening and closing correctly, leaving you stranded with no lights working. Watch out for corrosion in the wheel arches, and for poorly made body kits that were popular in the ‘90s. 

ENGINE & GEARBOX

Both engines are Mazda, as are the gearboxes. Japanese mechanicals prove to be reliable in the Probe, although cambelts should be changed every 60,000 miles. The V6 is non-interference, meaning the piston doesn’t travel into the area where the valves open. Basically, if the cambelt fails it won’t do any major damage. The straight four is not as lucky, so it’s imperative you check if it’s been maintained. Manual and automatic transmissions are available and are robust enough for everyday use. 

RUNNING GEAR

Disc brakes all round should stop the car well, but faulty rear calipers are a known problem, especially if the car’s been sat for some time. If they’re sticking it’s worth trying to loosen them, but if that doesn’t solve the problem it’s time for new calipers. Suspension is generally good but keep an eye out for non-standard pieces of kit, the same goes for alloys. They’re quite popular with young tuners. If the car’s particularly slow on the test drive it could be down to a catalytic converter problem, which can get pricey. Slipping clutches are a well-known issue. Although they can last, the only way to fix the issue is to get a new clutch fitted. Once again, pricey, and it’s worth checking the history to see when it was last changed.

INTERIOR

Window seals are a weak point on the Probe. Put it down to those elegant frameless windows. Soggy carpets and mould are a giveaway that moisture’s getting in. Replace the seals and it should fix the problem. A leaking sunroof is common, as is rust. Watch out for rust bubbles in the paintwork, and ask the owner if it’s been replaced. If the sunroof’s noisy then it can be solved by fitting some foam between the sunroof frame and roof to stop them from rubbing. Leather seats are more desirable than cloth, which is important when thinking of resale value. 

ELECTRICS

Brake warning lights can flash up on the dash, and are very sensitive. One way to combat this is to check the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s not full to the brim you’ll need to fill it up to make the light go off. Immobilisers can be a problem, through various connection issues. The cheapest and easiest way to fix this problem is to bypass it completely. Remember to tell your insurance company about it though, as you might not be covered if it’s stolen. 

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OUR VERDICT

You want a Probe because you lust after a low maintenance, sharply styled coupé for not a lot of money. What other American V6 Coupé can you buy for £1000? For many the Probe is everything that was right about 1990s America. The Americans weren’t keen on it because it was front wheel drive, and didn’t come with a V8 – does that matter to us Europeans though? If you’re looking for an increasingly rare, cheap, alternative coupe, you’ve found it.

FORD PUMA REVIEW

With grin-inducing handling and performance, the Ford Puma is a stylish coupe and also something of a bargain. Here’s how to buy the best.

While its basic underpinnings may have come from the Fiesta, its handling and performance were in a different league to the humble supermini.  This was an attractively-priced coupe that was designed to put a smile on your face, and it didn’t take long behind the wheel to achieve just that.  Racing Puma aside, the 1.7-litre engine fitted at launch was – and still is – the one to go for.  Free-revving and refined, it was more than capable of delivering the performance goods, punching the stylish Ford to 60mph in just 8.6 seconds.  Accompanied by a slick gear change operated via a tactile (though chilly in winter) metal gear lever knob, and well-matched pedal weights, it was easy to have fun with the Puma without approaching licence-losing speeds.  But perhaps the real icing on this particular Blue Oval cake was the handling.  The Fiesta was already well-regarded in this area but the coupe moved things on a few notches, delivering the perfect combination of sharp and adjustable handling allied to an absorbent ride.  And even if the bulky airbag steering wheel was hardly a visual delight the hydraulically-assisted helm was brimming with feedback, making this a car that you could throw down a B-road without any fear of it biting back.  And if you did get a little over-exuberant the disc/drum brakes were feelsome and easily modulated, and more than ample for the performance on offer. 

After all the dynamic excitement the cabin was almost something of a letdown, borrowing its dashboard and most of its trim from the Fiesta, but it all worked well enough in practice.  The seats lacked under-thigh support for taller drivers but the driving position itself was spot-on, and there was decent space for front seat passengers.  The rear perches weren’t a great deal of use for people though and probably best used as extra storage.  The slightly gloomy interior was also lifted by the addition of metal-effect trim on the fascia and there was plenty of standard kit.  But the Puma was all about delivering a superb driving experience, and it had that well and truly nailed.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Puma 1.7

Engine 1679cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power 123bhp@6300rpm

Torque 116lb ft@4500

Top speed 123mph

0-60mph 8.6secs

Economy 38mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual 

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Bodywork shouldn’t be suffering from any major woes but it’s prone to rot in a few places.  Rear wheelarches are the weakest spot so feel around the lip of the arch and look for signs of previous repairs.  The sills and seat belt anchorage points can also succumb so these need thorough checking from underneath, and examine the extremities of the doors, bonnet, tailgate and around the fuel filler flap.  Pumas can also suffer from condensation in the headlamp covers caused by leaking seals, but it’s easy to remedy. 

The Racing Puma arrived in early 2000 sporting wider wings – the fronts in aluminium, the rears in steel – so check for dents and scrapes.  Both wings and bumpers are very hard to find, and costly when you do.  The Racing’s increased desirability and value means condition should be perfect so be wary of neglected examples, and ensure the unique Ford Racing Blue paintwork is free of stone chips and mis-matched areas of colour. 

Engine

The 1.7-litre Zetec unit with a Yamaha-developed cylinder head handles big mileages with proper maintenance.  Regular oil changes are vital, preferably at 5000 miles rather than the recommended 10,000, and use top-quality lubricant.  Fully synthetic oil is best avoided as it can accelerate cylinder bore wear – specialists advise using 5w/30 semi-synthetic.  Cambelts need changing at 100,000 miles and rarely give trouble before that - it’s worth doing the water pump at the same time - and listen for misfires as leaking core plugs allow coolant to pool around the spark plugs.  Oil leaks from the rocker cover are best fixed with a genuine Ford gasket.  The 153bhp Racing featured revisions to inlet, exhaust, and engine management systems but the same issues apply.  The 88bhp 1.4 and 101bhp 1.6 engines (from February 1998 and spring 2001 respectively) lack punch, but neither are troublesome unless neglected.

Transmission

The transmission is Ford’s robust ‘IB5’ 5-speed manual gearbox, tiredness showing up in weak synchromesh and a baggy gearshift.  The latter is a cheap fix using new linkages but budget for a re-conditioned ‘box if gear-changes are crunchy.  A high biting point means a clutch past its best but it’s neither expensive nor particularly difficult to change, but it’s a good bargaining point.

Suspension

Agile handling was a key feature so anything less points to something awry in the suspension.  Chances are its worn bushes in the front arms, anti-roll bars, or rear axle beam, so budget accordingly if refurbishment beckons.  Clunking over bumps, kerbed wheels or uneven tyre wear should ring alarm bells.  Polyurethane replacements are common but they can harshen the ride, and standard items work fine if they’re in good condition.  Check also for any corrosion around mounting points while Racing shock absorbers are scarce.  

Brakes & Steering

Neither brakes nor steering should give cause for concern.  The former were discs and drums – enlarged post-2000 - although the Racing got Alcon items with larger calipers, and they are rare and costly now.  ABS and traction control were fitted to most examples so ensure the warning light illuminates and extinguishes correctly.  Alloy wheels – the original ‘propeller’ style were replaced by multi-spoke items in 2000 – can suffer from peeling lacquer and corrosion but are reasonably cheap to refurbish.  The Racing got 17-inch Speedline items.

Interior

The Fiesta-based interior was straightforward and signs of wear and tear to fabric or leather trim will be obvious.  Flimsy plastics and broken trim clips will cause creaks and rattles, but the key thing is ensuring all the electrical items are working, particularly the electric seat height adjustment, central locking, and electric windows.  The heated ‘Quick Clear’ windscreen was a handy extra but checking its operation is more difficult unless viewing the car in frosty conditions, and heater valves play up so ensure the system works okay, including the air-conditioning if fitted.  Racing Pumas got costly Sparco bucket seats with blue alcantara inserts that should be undamaged.

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OUR VERDICT

The Puma is a stylish package that also happens to be great to drive.  Add in cheap prices and the appeal is obvious.  Running costs are modest too – rare and expensive Racing parts aside - and as long as you avoid the abused and badly modified cars this is a very cheap way to have fun.  It certainly gets our vote.

FORD SIERRA COSWORTH REVIEW

Classic Ford Sierra Review

When it came time to replace the ever popular Cortina in 1982 the Ford Sierra's aerodynamic styling was ahead of its time and a bit of a shock to the more conservative Ford buyers.

But that modern styling meant that during ten years of production the car remained looking current while other marques' offerings of the time quickly began to look dated. Ford offered the Sierra in a mind-boggling variety of engine sizes, from humble 1.3L to 2.9i V6 and RS Cosworth. Body styles varied from 3-door hatchback to 5-door estate and even a pickup. Transmissions were 3 and 4 speed automatics and 4 and 5 speed manuals. A range that offered something for everyone from families to racers and, probably most importantly for the success of the model, fleet buyers. As fleet cars they put in many hard miles at the hand of reps and business drivers, so low-mileage cars are very hard to come by these days, but they can be found.

Sierras were built for easy servicing and low running costs so parts are readily available but be aware that parts for the 4x4 and rear-wheel drive models are not interchangeable, nor between the four and six-cylinder models.

A car that was once seen in its thousands up and down the motorways of Britain is now becoming scarce and to the surprise of many good, low mileage, examples are beginning to change hands for surprising sums. However, it is the wild touring car racer for the road RS Cosworth that attracts the most money. Fancy one yourself? You'd better read our guide below.

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VITAL STATISTICS

1986 RS Cosworth

Engine 1993cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power 201bhp@6000rpm

Torque 204lb ft@4500rpm

Top Speed 145mph

0-60mph 6sec

Economy 21mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 Only 500 examples of the RS500 were made, so beware of replicas. Authentic examples should have larger ducts in the front bumper, while aerodynamics were improved thanks to a front splitter and extra spoiler on the tailgate. Engines should have a larger turbo and intercooler, two injectors per cylinder and larger capacity oil and water pumps. If in doubt, check the VIN plate on to the slam panel and the chassis number in the floorpan – they should match on a Cosworth, but not on an RS500.

2 You need to look out for corrosion, but it’s crash damage that’s killed most Cossies. On top of a thorough inspection of the car’s structure and panels, a HPI history check is highly recommended. Rippled inner wings or missing seam sealer should set alarm bells ringing, while serious corrosion most likely stems from badly repaired crash damage.

3 Other areas prone to rot include the joint where front wings meet the slam panel, under the rubber trim inside the tailgate and, oddly, behind the windscreen washer bottle in the engine bay. The double-skinned rear chassis rails, front inner wings and suspension are tricky areas to repair.

4 The twin-cam engine is unstressed when in standard tune, but most have been hotted up, so check the 330bhp safety limit hasn’t been exceeded. RS500s have a stronger cylinder block casing, so can take more power without failing.

5Head gasket problems due to corrosion are common and end up pressurising the cooling system. Check by getting the engine up to temperature and carefully removing the header tank cap – major bubbling points to trouble. An upgraded gasket is the best option.

6 Check for play in the steering, as the rubber bush in the universal joint gets cooked by the turbo. The bushes within the track control arms aren’t up to the job either. They wear rapidly, so replacement with a set of polyurethane items is worthwhile, including the anti-roll bar mounts.

7 Many Cossies have aftermarket wheels fitted, so check there is enough inner wheelarch clearance for them. The standard brakes are decent, but will only put up with so much abuse. Judder through the pedal when braking signifies warped discs, meaning a new set will be required.

8 Most original trim parts are obsolete, so check them thoroughly. Also, the dash top can split. While repairs are possible, a new panel is often the best solution – but they’re not cheap, even if you can find one.

9 Aftermarket sound systems and alarms cause havoc with electrics if spliced into the loom without consideration. The fusebox can melt because the twin cooling fans draw up to 30 amps. Originally, a 20-amp fuse was fitted, so it’s worth fitting a beefier wiring setup.

10 Sierra gearboxes are durable, but crunching when shifting into reverse is to be expected due to a lack of synchromesh. The first sign of trouble is baulking when changing up from third to fourth, meaning the synchro rings have begun to fail. A rebuild will cost £500, with refurbed diff units slightly less.

AT THE WHEEL

You have to experience the capabilities of this car for yourself – after that you’ll be hooked. The outstanding characteristic of the turbo-equipped RS Cosworth is it’s impressively broad power band. Quite unlike earlier turbo-equipped cars, it isn’t hamstrung by lag – it produces more than 80 per cent of its maximum torque all the way from 2300rpm right upto 6500rpm – which translates into supremely useable performance out on the road.

The feeling of planting the throttle in second gear is one to be savoured, while the mid-range grunt of the engine is truly staggering – it’s a rasping, growling, buzzing old thing, about as far removed from the sanitized modern four-pots that are peddled today as you could imagine.

The RS Cosworth is raw and a bit rough round the edges then, but is an exciting drive and makes no apologies for it. You can indulge your touring car fantasies too, imagining you’re Robb Gravett on the way to a British Saloon Car Championship victory in 1990. Plus, you can still fit the family and a few bags of shopping on board. What a car!

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VERDICT

Thanks to the popularity of television programmes such as Ashes To Ashes, there’s now a serious market for 1980s legends like the Sierra Cosworth. Originality is critical though and bodywork, wheels and seats need to be as close to original specification as possible. Many cars were modified almost as soon as they left the dealer’s forecourt, meaning 100 per cent factory fresh examples are now few and far between. Rising values have also seen many dubious characters jumping on the bandwagon – with plenty of fakes being passed off as the real thing. All genuine cars will feature a tilt/slide sunroof, but if you have any doubts then walk away, or consult the RS Owners’ Club for help and advice. That said, as long as you’re careful when buying, then the Cosworth is a perfomance pleaser that’s only going to appreciate in value

FORD SIERRA REVIEW

Classic Ford Sierra Review

Time hasn’t been kind to the Sierra. At its 1982 launch, loyal Ford buyers were put off its radical aerodynamic styling, even though its proven mechanicals were largely taken from the much-loved Cortina. After fighting the good sales fight against the Cavalier in a bid to become a familiar part of UK street furniture, the Sierra slipped into banger territory, and has struggled to pull itself out ever since.
Today, Ford’s spacious hatchback is something of a classic bargain. Prices are still rock-bottom for all but the sporty XR4i, and swivel-eyed Sierra Cosworth. Yet all models offer commendable drivability and are incredibly easy to live with. 
Buy one now, before they all disappear.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Although less rot-prone than many classics, even the youngest of the first-generation Sierras is a quarter of a century old, so rust has had plenty of time to take hold. Inspect the sill structures closely; watch out for hurried MoT-pass repairs. Take a look at the condition of the footwells. A leaking sunroof will result in damp carpets, which will in turn lead to rot eating away at the floor-pans. Watch for rusty boot floors and lower rear wings.
With the bonnet open, check the inner wings, slam panel and front cross-member for corrosion or signs of accident damage. The sporty XR4i is all the more likely to have been crashed; rippling panels are the biggest clue to poorly-repaired accident damage. 
The condition of the suspension turrets, front and rear, is crucial; watch out for clumsy patches welded over rot. Grit and road spray give the inner wheel-arches a good pounding, while a rotten battery tray is tricky to put right.
Any bubbling beneath window rubbers will only get worse over time; this is a glass-out job to rectify. Take a good look at the sunroof aperture; blocked drainage holes will lead to rust. 
Doors rot around the windows, as well as their lower edges; the plastic trim of the XR4i hides the latter. Secondhand panels do occasionally turn up at breakers’ yards, although doors for the rare three-door models will take some finding.

ENGINE

The sprawling Sierra range used a number of different engines. The hardy Pinto was used in 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0-litre guises, along with a Peugeot-sourced 2.3-litre diesel engine. All are tough, and the Pinto can cover over 150,000 miles with regular oil changes, although if this hasn’t happened, oil blockage problems can destroy camshafts and followers. Look out for oil smoke under acceleration, as well as lubricant leaks.
Higher-spec models used the Cologne V6 in 2.3 or 2.8-litre sizes. These unstressed units can cover over 200,000 miles with care, although top-end valve gear chatter is a result of a lack of oil changes and/or poor quality oil. Ask how regularly the car has been serviced; low values mean that maintenance is neglected on many Sierras.

RUNNING GEAR

As hard-wearing as the engines, the transmissions used on the Sierra aren’t especially troublesome. Manual versions had either four or five gears (depending upon engine size and age), while automatics always had three ratios. All are tough, and should change smoothly, with the five-speed Type 9 still a popular modification for other classics. 
Oil level needs to have been maintained to avoid premature wear. However, if you’re test driving a XR4x4, beware of nasty noises while on the move; it could signify transfer box damage.
If the rubber suspension bushes have deteriorated, the car will feel a lot less sharp to drive than it should; inspect the bushes for the front lower arms and rear trailing arms in particular. Ineffective braking could be down to seized rear wheel cylinders, or excessively worn or warped front discs. Beware of XR4is that have lost their heavier-duty suspension dampers; have corners been cut in other areas of maintenance?

INTERIOR

Regardless of whether cloth or velour is fitted, the Sierra’s trim is quite hard wearing. This is just as well, as tracking down replacement trim will be a nightmare. High-mileage cars are more likely to be suffering from tears, stains and sagging bolsters on the driver’s seat, while carpets can go mouldy, if water is leaking into the cabin.
Check that all of the electrical functions – and there are many on the range-topping Ghia – still work. Plastics can fade and crack in the sun, and parcel shelves and door trims are often butchered to fit aftermarket speakers.

OUR VERDICT

Competent, comfortable and easy to live with, the Sierra is still a smart motoring choice today. That explains why many survivors are still treated as everyday cars. Those fuel-saving aerodynamics, coupled with motorway-friendly gearing and thrifty engines ensure that almost all derivatives are still affordable to run. Sadly, most people have yet to cotton on to what outstanding value the Sierra offers. Grab one now, before they all disappear.

FORD SIERRA SAPPHIRE REVIEW

Ford Sierra Sapphire Review

When the Ford Sierra was launched in 1982 Ford rather shot themselves in the foot. The Cortina has been sensible, fashionable, but fundamentally a ‘safe’ design. The Sierra was the opposite – new, smooth, aerodynamic, and not at all the car Mr Rep wanted. The Sapphire, launched in 1987, was an attempt to woo back the Cortina fans who had deserted Ford for pastures new in the early 80s – with a sensible grille and a boot proud of the passenger compartment it was just what the sales team needed. By the time it was launched, however, the Sierra had become acceptable.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Being a 1980s Ford, it will rot. Rustproofing and steel quality weren’t great at Ford during the 1980s, and early Sapphires can rot before your eyes if you let them. Later examples tend to be better, but even the newest are 20 years old now.

Post 1989 cars had plastic wheelarch liners to try and alleviate the rust issue, whilst these were successful in avoiding A-post and front wing rot they didn’t work entirely as intended at the back – rear arches still go. The front crossmember and front and rear bumper mounts can rust – beware of rot on the bonnet slam panel, for these issues will almost certainly be present too. Doors can rot, and when replacing beware that there are 2 types of lock mechanism which are non interchangeable. Choose your doors carefully!

Engines

Early cars were all Pinto – the 1.6 and 2.0 from the Cortina days and a new 1.8 litre unit. The 1.8 was replaced mid-term with a 1.8 CVH unit, and the 2.0 with a new 2.0 I4 design in 1989. The head gaskets on this unit have been known to fail – primarily because Ford’s original specification for the antifreeze corroded the fibre gaskets used! Later engines used a laminated steel gasket – make sure it’s been changed, and that the chains and guides were replaced at the same time. Tappets can be noisy, and they all like clean oil – change it every 5000 miles. Diesels were a 2.3 Peugeot unit, and later a 1.8 Turbo unit developed by Ford.

Running Gear

Two gearboxes in normal Sierras, all Pinto and CVH cars got the Type 9 and the I4 engined cars got the MT75. Both boxes are tough and should show no faults in service. MacPherson struts with a trailing anti roll bar at the front and independent swing arms at the back are tried and tested, and reliable in service. Some late cars also got rear anti roll bars, but it wasn’t standard fit – don’t be surprised to find it missing. Some later 2.0s have rear disc brakes – if this is the case and the handbrake hasn’t been used in some time it can become inactive on one side – the only solution is a replacement caliper. Barring this and the obvious risk of discs warping, there’s little to worry about here.

Interior

Being essentially an 80s family car and rep hack, it’s not exactly long lived. MK1 dashboards can crack, though MK2 ones seem hardy. Replacement trim can be an issue, unless it’s a 2000E or one of the rare Ghia with leather – however, parts for lesser models can occasionally be obtained from people breaking Sierras as kit-car donors. Front seats are shared with Sierra, rear ones are a different design and won’t fit.

The soundest advice is to buy a common spec with a common interior colour – if you choose something rare with a strangely coloured interior parts will not be hard to find, they’ll be impossible.

Why Should I Buy One?

Do you need a sensible family car but lust after something from days gone by? Are you a reformed rep? Do you just want a cheap classic? Do you need to use it daily? If the answer to any of these is yes then the Sapphire is an ideal classic. The only snag is that with its 5th door the Sierra is more practical – but then it’s also more common. With the Sapphire, you stand out.

What Should I Pay

Project - £300

Usable - £600

Nice - £1350

Concours - £1750

Vital Statistics

Engine – 1993cc, 4-cyl, OHC 

Power - 115bhp@5500rpm

Torque - 118lb/ft@4000rpm

Top Speed – 116mph

0-60mph – 9.2 seconds

Economy – 25mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual

FORD THUNDERBIRD REVIEW

The Ford Thunderbird entered production in 1955 and was only sold in America. The car was intended as Ford answer to the Chevrolet Corvette, although the emphasis was slightly more toward luxury with Ford calling the car a 'personal luxury car' as opposed to a sports car. The Ford Thunderbird ran through several iations over its 50 years in production, with styling between each variant differing hugely.

The first incarnation of the ford Thunderbird is now known as the 'Classic Bird' or 'Little Bird'. Initially Ford only intended to build 10,000 T-Birds, however sales were so strong that Ford continued; the Blue Oval sold more than 16,000 in the first year alone. The car was a luxury two-seater, available in hard or soft top options and powered by the 292 Y-Block V8 engine. Toward the end of the Little/Classic Bird's run Ford introduced a new, larger engine, the 312 Y-Block V8, before commissioning a powerful overhaul of it, the McCulloch Supercharged V8 producing 340hp. The car was characterised by its eccentric styling, with distinctive rear port-hole windows and the spare wheel being mounted on the car's exterior. The cars influential styling lived on after production had ended, with the British Ford Anglia's design borrowing heavily from the original T-Bird.

The '58-released 'Square Bird' is most remembered for it's ride height, which was so low that the drivetrain intruded into the cabin of the car, with Ford forced to make a feature out of the huge transmission tunnel that divided the front and rear seats; putting ashtrays and such on it. New engines were added from Ford's FE series, with the option of a new 7.0L MEL-Series engine. There was also the option of a sunroof on the hardtop, in the German built Thunderbird 'Golde Edition'. The car earned Motor Trend's Car of the Year award which was in-turn rewarded with excellent sales. For the next incarnation, the Ford 'Bullet Bird' T-Bird, a new engine was again used, with only one engine on option on offer this time, a 6.4L FE-Series V8.

A new model was introduced; the Ford Thunderbird Sports Roadster used a tonneau cover to effectively remove the back seats. The car was now also available with a 'Kelsey-Hayes' trim pack, in 'Landau' model format, and with the option of a vinyl roof. The car maintained its high profile, country club image and this was reflected with some significant celebrity owners, including Elvis, and by the car's inclusion in President Kennedy's inauguration entourage. Ford also released a limited edition, customised 'Principality of Monaco' Landau model. As was the case with the 'Classic Bird', the styling of the Bullet Bird lived on well after the car's demise in the form of a British Ford; in this case it was the Ford Corsair that was influenced by Thunderbird styling.

By the time the '64 'Flair Bird' as released, despite sporting additions such as disc brakes, the Thunderbird was starting to seem cumbersome compared to competition such as the Buick Riviera or the Pontiac Grand Prix. Despite this the T-Bird continued to out-sell both these cars. Again styling was vastly revised, with radical new rear indicators. The rear light cluster ran the entire width of the car and a turn was indicated by the signal starting in the centre of the car and lighting each bulb in-turn in the direction of the intended turn. This addition, although novel, delayed the car's release due to problems over car-lighting laws. Again another even larger engine was offered, a 7.0 V8, and a new model offered, the Ford Thunderbird Town Hardtop. The release of this model came at the cost of the Landau model, which was dropped (although was later to be replaced with the Town Landau). Again Ford built a limited edition model – the 427 T-Bird was a very limited high performance variant.

1967 saw the release of the 'Glamour Bird'. This particular variant was a change of direction with the emphasis on luxury rather than sporting capabilities. This change was down to Ford's own Mustang, which was essentially beating the T-Bird at its own game, and at a lower cost to boot. The Thunderbird was increased in size and styling was radically different to emphasise that this was a car traveling in a new direction. The Glamour Bird actually had two styling variants within its self. The first incarnation had a large open, fish-mouth style grill, inspired by the Dodge Charger. The second, built from 1970 onward, featured a standard front grille but wrapped around a beak-nose front end.

1973 then saw the release of the 'Big Bird' – the largest Ford Thunderbird ever built and powered by a 7.5L V8. Sales of the car were poor as its release coincided with the oil crisis and, as such, the market shifted toward smaller engines. Ford then followed the trend and began plans to downsize the Thunderbird, which leads some purists to now proclaim the Big Bird as the last 'real' T-Bird.

Ford's shift toward a smaller T-Bird led to the release of the 'Torino Bird'. The car was smaller, cheaper and used smaller V6 engines. This was then followed by the 1980 'Box Bird' which continued in the same vein as the Torino Bird. Downsizing continued with the base model now being 'just' 3.8L. This, coupled with the car's new affordability, tarnished the luxury image and the car was now seen as little more than a sedan with a few added extras.

The'Aero Bird' of the early 80s was somewhat better, earning Motor Trend's Car of the Year and spawning the much praised Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe; it received great reviews. Despite this sales fell still. Ford's last attempt was the 'Super Bird'. Despite the introduction of the range-topping Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe (SC) and again winning Motor Trend's Car of the Year accolade, sales fell further still and the car was dropped in 1997.

Ford did attempt a re-birth of the Thunderbird in 2002 with the release of the 'Retro Bird'. The car returned to the T-Birds roots as a two-seater and was again Motor Trend's Car of the Year (making this the Bird's 4th time). Yet the car was highly priced and poor in comparison to cars in the same price bracket. As such sales were slow and the car was dropped in 2005. Over the Ford Thunderbird's production run of 50 years, over 4.2 million cars were sold.

FORD XR3I REVIEW

The sporting Escort gained market share as the 1980s wore on. We examine their status as a modern classic...

The Ford XR3i was first released in January 1983. Initially available as the carburettored four-speed XR3, it was the introduction of Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection that added the I to the name and credibility to the model. With 105bhp and a top speed of 120mph, Ford’s hot hatch came good just at the right time. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

1985 ford xr3i

Engine                                    1597cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  105bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 101lb ft@1400rpm

Top speed                                116mph

0-60mph                                  8.8sec

Consumption                            32mpg

Gearbox                                    4/5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

While base model Escorts had plain metal, the winged, wheel-arched and skirted XR3i was covered in plastic add-ons just like the shoulder-padded fashions of the era. In period, this meant that Ford XRs looked less rusty than their lesser-specced sisters as the cars aged. But now, with rot able to take a good, hidden hold of steel, it’s easy to buy a car needing much rectification. 

Sills and rear wheel arches are the first grot-spots to examine. Check for incorrect clips or fixings, or the use of cyanoacrylate body sealer to hold components on. If you find any, alarm bells should be ringing. Screen bases and front wings can also rot and when you lift the bonnet, the story doesn’t end. Battery trays and the bulkhead below can rot through. The inner wings can disappear, as can the triangular bonnet landing panels at the top of the slam panel.

ENGINE

The CVH, or Compound Valve Hemispherical engine was a modern advanced design for its era. It was Ford’s first European engine to feature hydraulic valve lifters, reducing adjustment time in service, and giving quieter running. While less beset by damp starting problems than previous Ford motors, the CVH did have its own set of special needs – the cambelt needs changing every 36,000 miles, and needs checking either physically or in a paperwork trail that it has been done. 

Oil changes need to be frequent on a CVH, no matter what the Ford schedule says, because the engines are prone to black sludge, which can block oilways. Oil pick-up pipes are particularly prone to this, and it is often easier to change the gauze and pick-up tube than try to clean it. You can access this inside the sump. At the top end, motors can get rattly and if any oil starvation happens, the CVH can be prone to kicking a leg out of bed too, so watch that oil level. When servicing, take your 10mm, 11mm and 13mm spanners and go around every nut and bolt you can find. Many of them will have ‘eased off’ in use and this engine always seems to need a nip up, not helped by the revs you need to pile on to get the full 105bhp released. 

RUNNING GEAR

Brakes and wheel bearings are generally durable, as are driveshafts. Watch for the mechanical anti-lock brakes on the fronts of facelifted models, and read up online before attempting to work on or service them. Four-speed gearboxes are generally durable, but the five-speed gearbox can have some issues. Watch for poor synchromesh on gearchanges initially. Then observe the speedo needle carefully on the test drive. If it seems sluggish, flicky or doesn’t work, then suspect imminent failure of the diff bearings! Excess run-out as the bearings age causes the speedometer drive pinion to become disengaged, so an apparent speedo fault could mean a gearbox and diff rebuild! 

INTERIOR

Inside an XR3i was considered plush in its day. Now you’ll be watching out for worn seat bolsters, crusty carpets and dashboard deterioration. Cigarette burns in upholstery can be common. Check for delaminating windscreens, a sure sign that moisture may be getting past the windscreen seal. If your potential buy is fitted with electric windows or central locking, check they work. Also, check the operation of the rear lamps, as corrosion on the tab terminals of the rear lamp plug sockets can give poor earthing and resultant disco-light signalling. 

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OUR VERDICT

Back in the day there was a wanton, wideboy hooliganship to owning an XR3i as a used car. But as a Modern Classic there’s a lot to be said for the frugal sporty Ford. They’re involving to drive, easy to tune, and part of our national heritage just as much as a 1960s Farina. You’ll feel great driving it and be able to have conversations at every traffic light and fuel stop with people wanting to regale you with tales of their experiences with the fast Ford. Best of all, you’ll be part of the classic movement in a car that’s as practical, stylish and easy to use as it was the day it was new. Just keep it locked up overnight and use a decent steering-arm clamp when you park it – the XR3i was notoriously easy to steal and if you find a good one you’ll want to hang onto it.

FORD 100E REVIEW

Loaded with 1950s charm, these sidevalve Fords are have been attracting a new generation of followers.

Not too big, not too small with neat and achingly period styling touches and a massive dollop of 1950s character, a Ford 100E ticks all the right classic boxes. We’re talking here about sidevalve-engined Populars, Anglias and Prefects rather the similar looking 107E, which had the 105E's overhead valve Kent engine.

The 100E Anglia and Prefect looked ultra modern when they were launched in 1953 as the ‘little brothers’ to the larger, and hugely successful, overhead valve-engined Consul, Zephyr and Zodiac.

The new small Fords were cutting edge in their day, featuring unitary construction with hydraulic brakes and MacPherson strut suspension at the front. Such revolutionary technologies were, however markedly contrasted by one major aspect of the car which even today tends to make people buy other classics. Under the bonnet is the sidevalve 1172cc, developing 30bhp. This stunts real world performance somewhat.

There's no criticism about choice: Anglia and Prefects were distinguished by individual radiator treatments and dashboards. Delux versions, with extra trim followed in 1955.

Escort and Squire estate versions of the car being introduced in 1956 being based on the 5cwt van.

In 1959 the Anglia and Prefect 100E ceased production. However, these cars had been like a couple of Citroen DS variants compared to the other small Ford sold alongside them. The 103E Popular, oft known as the ‘sit up and beg Pop’ looked like and indeed almost was a prewar model, and the cheapest car on the market,

In 1959 this was replaced by a (stretching the word to its absolute limit) new Ford 100E Popular, basically the same as the previous Anglia and Prefect and once again starring that sidevalve, which lasted until 1962 as Ford's cheapest car.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 1173cc 4-cyl sidevalve

POWER 30bhp@4500rpm

TORQUE 52lb@4000rpm (104bhp@30

2500rpm)

TOP SPEED 70mph

0-60 MPH 33.8sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 30mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD 3-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body beautiful

These cars were well-built but could be given for signs of rot after 50 years. Look carefully at the MacPherson strut mountings and the inner wings to which these are attached.

Check also the door bottoms sills, especially where they meet the wings, the lower wing edges and the section where they meet the front valance, the floors, boot, spare wheel well and rear spring hangers. Also watch out for rust arounf the jacking points and around the rear valance. These cars do rot ‘honestly,; ie you can see most of the damage.

Not all is lost
Considering these cars’ relative rarity, a surprising number of body panels are available, Ex-Pressed Steel Panels will even make you a new wing, though you’ll pay £640 for it. Plus VAT. Pop Parts Plus can sell you a rear quarter panel for £35 and sills for £30, inc VAT. Specialists and club members can fix you up with secondhand panels.

Engine warnings
It is rather a charming little unit but don’t expect it to cover vast mileages without work. A thrashed sidevalve on which no-one had changed the oil (recommended frequency every 3000 miles) will be crying out for a rebuild at 25,000 miles or less. The cars were fitted with not over durable white metal bearings, so even a well maintained engine is going to need work by 40,000 miles. Most enthusiasts recommend you should fit shell-type bearings. Pop Parts have these at £350. They’ll also send you a secondhand engine for around £450 or a reconditioned one for £3000.

Obviously do listen extremely carefully for any sign of bearing rattle when checking a new purchase. The engine breather pope can become blocked, explaining an extremely lethargic unit and even oil leaks.

Changing ratios

The three-speed gearboxes have reverse where you’d expect to find first, which has caught out the odd new driver. Synchromesh often wears, and you might also find the car jumping out of gear, particularly second. Specialists will supply components or a reconditioned box, but again this is expenditure you could do without, so give a potential purchase a good checking over.

A few cars were fitted with Newtondrive clutchless transmissiom but these are just about extinct,

Talk steering
Expect some sloppiness in the steering, which could be suffering from a lack of greasing. The steering box may be worn or may need the fluid topping up or replacing, which should be done every thousand miles or so.

Stiff steering could be down to an over adjusted box or the ball races on the MacPherson struts seizing up.

FSOC for these
These cars have excellent support from the Ford Sidevalve Owners Club which prides itself on a friendly welcome and extensive spares scheme.

Extensive brake, suspension, transmissioin and electrical parts are among the vast range on offer. Club members will also help you source anything you need for your car.

Puttingthe brakes on
The handbrake linkage can seize if not regularly greased. Spares are easy to get for the all-drum system. Original spec brake pipes can corrode, especially where they go over the rear axle.

Keeping it in trim

You may be relying on autojumbles and club members for second, though Aldridge Trimming will do you a set of front seat covers for £269.64 and rears for £224.71 including VAT. Door panels are also available from Aldridge.

OUR VERDICT

Speaking as a massive fan of these cars since childhood, I can confirm there is something special about them, small and not terribly fast but packed with automotive X-factor. They are undeniably neatly styled bristling with charm and period styling details, bringing to mind a deeply scaled down Zephyr or Zodiac and goodness knows what from America. They are surprisingly well built, with thick metal. They are also extremely simple cars to work on. Any car with only one fuse is alright by us amateur mechanics! The interiors are deeply charming too, and there’s a surprising amount of space inside.

Though the sidevalve engine is slow the three-speed gearbox does make the most of the available er, power, meaning the cars are ok in town.

Admittedly something like an Austin A35 is a rocket missile by comparison but a 100E is something special. Just enjoy these unique cars for what they are, and don’t forget that half a million were made! As Peter Clarke at Small Ford Spares comments ‘They’re a good all round 1950s classic!’

FORD ANGLIA E494A REVIEW

The Ford Anglia was a post-WW2 family-car favourite. It offered reliability and cheap motoring.

With the separate headlamps and prominent wings, you expect the vintage styling to be reflected in the driving experience, but the E494A actually proves to be an agreeable companion on the road. Such modest power will never produce much in the way of performance, but the Anglia is happy to bowl along at a steady pace. The slightly agricultural underpinnings make for a somewhat fidgety ride and grip runs out fairly quickly if you get over-enthusiastic with the throttle, but even fairly long journeys are far from unpleasant, as long as you plan your route to use older A and B roads and avoid the stress of motorway travel.

That simple interior is comfortable enough too and the light controls make for a stress-free driving experience. A well-cared for example should run smoothly with a clean pick-up on acceleration, so be prepared for further investigation if this isn’t the case. If you are looking for a simple and reliable tourer, then you really should consider the Anglia.

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VITAL STATISTICS

1948 FORD ANGLIA E494A

Engine                                    933cc/four cylinder/side

Power (bhp@rpm)                  23bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 36lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed                                57mph

0-60mph                                  38.3sec

Consumption                           36mpg

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The 8hp side-valve engine is both strong and relatively simple, but can be labour-intensive to overhaul. A complete rebuild could easily set you back £2500-3000. A low-frequency knock under load almost certainly means the white-metalled big-end bearings are worn, so listen out when test-driving. These can be replaced with more modern materials. Excessive exhaust smoke can be an issue, but doesn’t always signal an impending failure, while oil fumes in the cabin are generally caused by a blocked breather system which is easily cleaned. Original engines are sometimes swapped for the 10hp unit – a larger starter motor is the giveaway.

The simple chassis is a rugged affair, and any damage or corrosion should be easy to spot. Apart from where the chassis travels over the rear axle and an area at the base of the ‘A’ post there is little to concern would-be buyers, though ensuring cracks haven’t appeared around the leaf spring U-bolts is advisable. Check the floorpan too – water leaks are likely to have occurred at some point in the cars life, and these can quickly have allowed rot to take hold so lifting the floor covering is a sensible precaution. 

Corrosion. Check the rear valance, boot floor, boot lid panel, and the mounting flanges where the wings attach to the body, while rust around the rain channels and screen surrounds are tricky areas to repair. Wings and doors are more durable. Disintegration of the ‘A’ and ‘B’ posts will be of greater concern, so check these areas carefully as repairs are labour intensive and therefore costly. Panel gaps on the Anglia were considered good for the time so serious misalignment is worth investigating. While there is little in the way of chrome-work, it is worth ensuring that items mirrors, hubcaps, and light units are present as damaged or missing trim will mean a search for secondhand parts.

ENGINE

Worth noting is that engines often lacked a built-in water pump or oil filter (though these are often bolted-on later), so cooling and lubrication systems need to be kept in good order.

RUNNING GEAR

The three-speed manual gearbox is a tough unit but can get noisy at high mileages. It is susceptible to jumping out of second gear, so watch out on the test drive. Worn selector forks or bearings will be the likely culprits, but a reconditioned ‘box at around £500 is a reasonably cheap cure. 

The rest of the running gear is as simple as the car’s appearance suggests. The all-round drum brakes are cable-operated at the front, by rod at the rear, and provide decent braking ability as long as they are set-up and adjusted correctly – a simple job for a specialist so seek advice if you’re not sure. Suspension is by transverse leaf spring and hydraulic damper while an oil-filled worm and peg arrangement takes care of steering duties. Neither system should give trouble as long as the proper greasing regime has been adhered too. Failed wheel bearings can be costly.

INTERIOR

Despite being considered more upmarket than the Ford Popular, the interior of the Anglia is still pretty spartan even by vintage standards. The addition of ‘trafficators’ and two vacuum-operated wipers rather than one are pretty much as far as things stretch in terms of equipment, though the Bakelite dashboard is a nice touch, as long as it is not cracked. Worn window mechanisms can be common. Re-trimming is straightforward but a nice original interior with all the fixtures and fittings in place does add value.Adjust the price you are willing to pay accordingly if refurbishment is required. As with exterior trim, a hunt for used parts will be needed if items are missing, and some parts are now quite scarce.

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OUR VERDICT

If you’re a fan of the sit-up-and-beg school of car design, then you will almost certainly like the Anglia E494A. Introduced in 1948, the Anglia was one of the cheapest cars on sale in Britain and set out to provide post-WW2 buyers with a durable, useful and reliable family car. 

It certainly achieved that aim and it is that lack of complexity that still makes it desirable today. Modest prices on the used market mean you can get behind the wheel of a very tidy and usable example without breaking the bank, while day-to-day running costs are similarly affordable.

If you’re handy with the spanners the E494A is DIY-friendly too, so unless you really are after a project car, a few simple checks are all that’s necessary to secure yourself an enjoyable, characterful runabout. They're available for a fraction of the price you might pay for a pre-WW2 Ford 12. So for anyone who craves some simple classic motoring, the Anglia could be your period-perfect choice.

There is little to catch the unwary in terms of problems. But even the youngest example is half a century old, so conscientious checking is required if resto bills are to be avoided. With 108,000 built, there's a good selection on the market so don't land yourself with a wreck. Just find a cherished car and keep it that way. You'll enjoy years of affordable motoring.  

FORD ZEPHYR MKI REVIEW

The MkI Zephyr brought unitary bodies to Ford...

With only around 70bhp to call on, the Zephyr is no ball of fire on the open road, but you won’t struggle to keep up with modern traffic. In any case, this car is all about style, something it has in abundance. The simple but charming cabin is a fine place to be with plenty of room, a good driving positionand nicely weighted controls. A well-maintained example should start quickly and settle to a smooth tickover, and while the 2.2-litre engine gets vocal when pressed, long-distance refinement is more than acceptable. An ability to cover plenty of miles in comfort is one of the Zephyr’s biggest plus points, while a smooth ride and secure handling inspire confidence if you do want to make full use of the power on offer. Perhaps it was these attributes that contributed to the Zephyr’s success as a rally car, with speed camera inventor, Maurice Gatsonides, winning the 1953 Monte Carlo Rally in one! So if you’re looking for a roomy and relaxing British classic, this stylish Ford is likely to tick all the boxes.

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VITAL STATISTICS

FORD ZEPHYR MKI

Engine                                    2262cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  68bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 112lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  19.5sec

Consumption                            20mpg 

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

It may have been Ford’s first car to feature unitary construction but it also shared the same propensity for rust as many British models, which means thorough checking of the bodywork is required. It’s the usual places too, such as the wings, wheel arches, sills and door bottoms that are most at risk, but you’ll also want to check the front and rear valances, the leading edge of the boot lid and the double-skinned sections of the bonnet. The A-posts (where the front door hinges mount) are also known rot-spots, but be aware that removing the front wings is the only sure way to fully examine them. Good examples are out there if you’re patient and many have been repaired by now. Check the history file for evidence of any body repairs, and check the car to see if the information and bills tally.

A good look underneath is advisable as the underbody can rust in a number of places. Check the front chassis rail where the bumper brackets mount, the front and rear outriggers and jacking points, and the chassis rails where they pass over the rear axle. Lift the carpets in the front and rear footwells and the boot to check for signs of rust. Also feel for any dampness that suggests water ingress.

An often-overlooked problem is scarcity of some exterior trim parts, such asbadges and bumpers. Mazak, chrome and stainless steel were used for these items and you could face a lengthy search for second-hand bits if they are missing. That, or you’ll need to budget for costly re-chroming work. Our advice would be to spend a little more on a car that is essentially complete.

The pretty convertible with its hydraulically-powered hood is something of a rarity, but if you are tempted, make sure the mechanism and hood are in sound condition. A plate is mounted under the bonnet with instructions for operating the hood, so check this is in place as it adds a nice touch of originality. Check for any rips, tears or wear, as replacement hoods can be very expensive.

ENGINE

The iron-block straight six engine is both simple and strong. Questioning the vendor about the previous maintenance regime should tell you all you need to know, and as long as it has been maintained properly and received regular oil changes should prove trouble-free. All the same it is worth watching out for excessive amounts of blue smoke from the exhaust indicating valve stem oil seal or piston-ring wear. There is still an excellent parts supply for these units with items such as camshafts, pistons, and engine blocks all available, and their simplicity makes a re-build a reasonable DIY proposition. Once again, check the history file for any significant repairs that have been carried out during the life of the car. 

RUNNING GEAR

The three-speed column change gearbox rarely gives trouble as long as the oil level has been kept topped up – if it jumps out of second gear a re-build is required, but any slack in the linkage is easily sorted.  An overdrive unit was a rare option and while it does benefit long-distance cruising, you’ll need to ensure it operates correctly as bringing a defunct unit back to life can be time-consuming and costly.  BorgWarner versions were operated by a simple solenoid switch, but the Laycock units were engaged by a cable-operated lever in the cabin, the driver needing to manually lock the system in or out depending on driving conditions. When new, the Zephyr had a tendency to break half-shafts, but stronger replacements are available from specialists.

The suspension system is a simple arrangement with MacPherson struts at the front and semi-elliptic leaf springs aft. Both are trouble-free and easy to refurbish (though watch for rust around the front suspension turrets). The same generally applies to brakes and steering, and evidence of regular maintenance will provide peace of mind. That said, the brakes can prove tricky to bleed owing to the design of the master cylinder (it sucks fluid from the reservoir rather than using gravity), though a £300 conversion kit avoids the problem. Also, the steering box lower mounting bracket can crack over time – a specialist may be needed to sort either problem. Re-build costs can quickly mount, so take this into account when viewing. 

INTERIOR

‘Simplicity’ is a word that applies to the interior of the Zephyr too, and with plenty of painted metal on display, refreshing a tired cabin is a DIY task.  You’ll need to budget for re-trimming work if seats and carpets are damaged (the leather trim of higher-spec models will add cost), but finding one in good condition shouldn’t be difficult. Replacement interior trim is available though.

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OUR VERDICT

If it’s a stylish and roomy family classic that you’re after, then the overall simplicity and robust mechanicals of the Ford Zephyr make it hugely appealing. There are of course some issues to be aware of – corrosion being the main one – but buy carefully and you’ll be rewarded with a fine British car that should prove easy and cheap to run. And if you like to wield the spanners, that simplicity gives plenty of scope for DIY work, too. So buy the best you can afford. Try and avoid cars that have been ‘Teddy-boy’d up’, as too many accessories can spoil the clean lines. Values are creeping up as fewer cars survive, so now is the time to buy.

FORD ZODIAC MKIII REVIEW

Looking for both space and style? Then this big Ford could be perfect.

While not exactly quick, the Zodiac’s straight-six provides acceptable performance with plenty in reserve for comfortable motorway cruising. Faster roads also demonstrate one of its other attributes, namely a smooth ride – thank the long wheelbase and soft suspension for that.  

It feels less comfortable in the twisties though as body roll and imprecise steering combine to make throwing the big Ford around something of a chore, and enthusiastic driving will soon degenerate into tyre-squealing understeer. The standard front disc brakes mean it also stops well. Where this car really scores though is inside. Although the capacious boot squeezed rear passenger space, there is plenty of room up front, the driving position is sound.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Zodiac MkIII

Engine                                    2553cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  109bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 140lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                100mph

0-60mph                                  13.4sec

Consumption                            18mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/3-spd auto

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

It’s no great surprise that corrosion is a major factor with the Zodiac, so the best advice is to check every panel. The wheel arches, door bottoms, and valances all suffer as do the front wings, particularly the lower rear corners, which can come adrift in the worst cases. The bottom of the rear wings can become pretty flaky too, so you’ll need to check the lower corner of the door aperture where the wing meets the sill. More serious is rot around the bulkhead, the front strut top mounts (including beneath the wings), and around the bonnet hinges. The latter can be a tricky repair, so don’t ignore problems here. There’s plenty of chrome on a Zodiac too, and the condition needs careful checking as replacement parts aren’t always easy to find – factor in the cost of any re-conditioning when assessing the asking price.

Don’t be swayed by a shiny exterior. It really is worth getting the car on a ramp before parting with any money as extensive rust repairs will swallow plenty of cash. You need to check the chassis legs – particularly those either side of the engine and above the rear axle – and outriggers thoroughly. The floorpan of the cabin and boot are known rot-spots too, leaky screen seals contributing to the problem.

ENGINE

The straight-six unit is under-stressed, so general engine wear is likely to be the biggest issue. Excessive oil smoke from the exhaust can mean piston rings or cylinder bores in need of attention, while a rumble from the bottom of the engine indicates worn bearings. Valve-gear can get noisy, while lack of lubrication accelerates camshaft wear, and it’s worth checking when the timing chain was last changed as these will stretch over time. Expect the odd oil leak, often from the rear crankshaft seal, while worn carburettor spindles cause poor running. Subtle upgrades such as electronic ignition or uprated cooling system parts are worth having. The straightforward design means overhauling a tired engine is a DIY task, so finding one with a solid body is more important.

RUNNING GEAR

Listen out for noisy manual gearboxes and crunchy gearchanges caused by worn synchromesh. There was a choice of column or floor-mounted shift and worn linkages can cause an obstructive shift. Check the over-drive works if fitted too. Automatic ’boxes are considered bullet-proof but check to see if the fluid looks clear. Differentials can whine at high mileages and it’s also worth checking for leaking pinion oil seals, or failed half-shaft seals that have allowed oil to contaminate the rear brakes.

BRAKES

Apart from tired MacPherson struts and sagging leaf springs, there is little to worry about suspension-wise. The steering box rarely gives trouble as long as the oil hasn’t been allowed to leak away but worn linkages will cause vagueness at the helm. Bear in mind that a variety of parts were used on Zephyrs/Zodiacs at the time which aren’t interchangeable. Watch for juddering brake discs and leaking rear wheel cylinders although brake parts are cheap so refurbishing a tired set-up is straightforward. Failed seals can allow brake fluid to leak into the remote-mounted servo, meaning a specialist re-build is required.

INTERIOR

There’s plenty of upholstery and carpeting in the big cabin, so reviving one that’s too far gone will cost. In addition factor in that some trim parts are becoming rare and difficult to source. Sun damage leads to cracking of the dash top and unless you can find a secondhand part, you’re looking at a few hundred pounds for a replacement from abroad. Finding an example with a tidy interior is best then, otherwise haggle accordingly.

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OUR VERDICT

Rotten examples are costly to put right, so don’t rush into buying without some careful checking. Be patient though as good ones are out there, and affordable prices along with sensible running costs make this classic 1960s Ford a hugely appealing proposition. Stylish looks and that spacious cabin are the icing on the cake as far as we’re concerned.

FORD ESCORT MKIII REVIEW

The big-selling front-wheel-drive hatchback is beginning to be taken seriously by classic enthusiasts, and with good reason.

So, the Car of the Year 1981 also sold a million in Britain faster than any other vehicle – ever. You may be surprised to know the car in question was… the all-new Ford Escort MkIII. So ubiquitous was this car, people tend to forget what a great leap it made over the preceding MkII.

Introduced in 1980, the MkIII brought front-wheel drive to the Escort range along with the all-new CVH (Compound Valve Hemispherical) engine, at least on some models. It was also a hatchback, an estate,a van and a Karmann developed convertible. A saloon version was marketed separately as the Ford Orion.

We’re not reviewing the much coveted XR3/XR3i here, nor the go-faster RS: our focus is on the honest workaday 1.1, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 models in L, GL and Ghia form. And the briefly available Popular.

Five-speed manual and three-speed automatic gearboxes were introduced from 1982. The unyielding ride quality was much improved by suspension mods in 1983, followed by a diesel version. The MkIV Escort, with smoother lines, facelifted grille and dashboard and some mechanical tweaks, followed in 1986.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                           1597cc/4-cyl/OHC

POWER                            79bhp@5800rpm

TORQUE                          92lb ft@3000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED              103mph

0-60MPH                           11.0sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION          30-35mpg

TRANSMISSION                  FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

These cars have several well-known rot spots. Wheelarches can go (replacements are available) as can rear chassis legs and jacking points. Closely inspect the sills and tailgate too, along with the front wings. Check the areas where the MacPherson struts are mounted – rot here is expensive to rectify. More worrying is corrosion in and around the battery tray, which in the worst cases deposits acid in places it really shouldn’t be.

SUBSTANDARD STEEL

In the mid-1980s Ford decided it would be a good idea to use the cheapest steel it could find. Cars built using it (c1986-88) will probably have long rotted away, but still be careful.

THE BODY BEAUTIFUL

Always buy the best car you can afford, which will hopefully mean you can avoid rustbuckets. But there’s plenty of help at hand if you need it. Ex-Pressed Steel Panels have front scuttles at £185 and rear panels for £350. Classic Ford specialist MC Trading of Sevenoaks sell wheelarches for £17 a corner.

OIL CRISIS

Oil changes on the CVH-engined cars, ie all but the 1.1 model, must be adhered to religiously. Seek out evidence of a conscientious maintenance regime on any car you’re thinking of buying.  These engines are notorious for oilway blockages and sludge can target the hydraulic camshaft lifters, damaging the cam. If the cambelt is damaged or simply not replaced on time you’ll be finding a new engine so, again, check its history.

This aside, the engine will last a long time if properly maintained. Check carefully for suspicious rattles and excessive blue smoke, both of which suggest a tired motor.

IS THE CHANGE AS GOOD AS THE REST?

Gearboxes can grow sloppy and dispense with their synchromesh, particularly on second and third gear – watch out for it on the test-drive. Also inspect for worn CV joints and split steering rack gaiters.

IT'S GOOD TO TALK

For a bit of banter with fellow owners and some real-world tips and advice, sign up to the Talk Ford online forum.

KEEPING IT IN TRIM

Posting a ‘wanted’ ad in Classic Car Weekly or on TalkFord is a good way to find replacement interior trim parts. Aldridge Trimming is worth knowing about too – it offers a trimmed headlining board for £243.96 and can retrim your seats using the nearest possible match to the original material.

OUR VERDICT

The MkIII has much to recommend it. Considering that, once upon a time, nobody in the UK was ever more than about 400 metres from one, they’re actually quite rare now – folk will wander over for a chat at filling stations. The MkIII’s original advertising slogan ‘Simple is efficient’ is spot-on: these are uncomplicated, easy-to-work-on cars. But perhaps the most compelling reason is the cost of buying one in the first place (see ‘What to pay’, right). Three grand for a mint example of a genuinely interesting classic you can drive every day – what’s not to like?

FORD ZEPHYR/ZODIAC MKIV REVIEW

Often overlooked and not always over praised in their day, the MkIV Zephyr and Zodiac were the last truly British big Fords, and great buys today.

‘Not they were NOT in Z-Cars.’ Many a MkIV Ford Zephyr and Zodiac owner will have found themselves uttering that statement to bemused family and enthusiasts who remember the legendary BBC TV police drama. A MkII, in early episodes, and then a MkIII Zephyr filled the screen as it powered along darkened streets in the title sequence. The MkIV looked, and indeed was a totally different large boxy animal, which at least until you see one, is sadly rather overlooked.

Introduced in 1966, a time when Ford was having almost as many big hits as the Beatles. The Zephyr came with the choice of a 1996 V4 or 2495cc V6 engine. The famous Essex V6 was used in the plusher Zodiac and deeply luxurious Executive, which gave us the 2994cc Essex V6. Some Zodiacs also received this bigger unit.

The car’s looks were definitely different but these new Ford’s earned criticism for their handling, made front heavy not only by the vast engines but a bizarre decision to fit the spare wheel under the bonnet (they had to fill the space with something).

Ford fitted anti-roll bars, along with radial tyres to V6 cars, both of which helped.

Saloons were joined by an officially embraced by Ford estate variant, built by Abbott of Farnham. In 1971 1000 Zephyr Specials arrived all painted Uranium Blue with a white vinyl roof, fabric seats and other joys.

Around 150,000 Mk4s were built – nothing to be ashamed of - before the pan European Granada and briefly Consul variant came along in 1972

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 2994cc/V6/OHV

POWER 144@4750rpm

TORQUE 192lb/ft@3000rpm

TOP SPEED 104mph

0-60 MPH 11sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 20mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD 4-speed manual /3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

WHAT SHOULD I BUY?
Lower spec models of these cars, ie those with single headlamps are rare today. The V4 engine has a reputation of being a little rough but well, we don’t think it’s that bad, and you could live with that in a show car. The V6s are, of course, more refined. Unless you to use the car as a substitute for a biceps workout at the gym you’d be wise to go for a car with power steering. The Executive is a truly luxurious car but doesn’t seem to command too much of a price premium. You should be able to get a good Mk4 for £5000-£6000 at most. Affordable Classics (www.affordableclassics.co.uk have a MoT'd Zodiac needing paintwork in stock. Offers around £3000.

BODYWORK

Plenty of nice metal to rot here. Look at the wings, door bottoms and outer and inner sills, particularly where they meet the rear crossmember. Also look at the area around the MacPherson struts and the chamber where the wiper motor sits. A good look at the boot floor would also be wise, and also make sure you check the front anti roll bar mountings. Suprisingly some body panels are available. Ex-pressed steel panels can even supply wings and jacking points.

Some cars have vinyl roof coverings. Check carefully for unsightly bulges!

ENGINE AND GEARBOX
All the engines in these cars aren’t renowned for lots of major faults, though do make the normal checks for excessive blue smoke etc. Cam followers are prone to wear.

Lancashire-based Car Clinic can supply most parts, even an exchange V6.

They will also supply a kit to tackle one potential major fault – failure of the fibre camshaft gearing – with a kit made from aluminium alloy. Also provided is new iron gearing for the crankshaft, as originally fitted.

Gearboxes are also reasonably rugged, and column changes more positive than most. Automatic gearboxes can be overhauled by firms such as Penn Autos the cost depending on what’s needed.

STEERING, SUSPENSION
Mk4s introduced independent rear suspension to the Ford of Britain range, and the system has lasted well, though after nigh on 50 years of supporting a heavy car you could forgive things being a bit sloppy. Without sounding trite, it’s probably wise to remember that these cars had a soft ride in the first place,

MacPherson struts can seize, especially with a car that’s been standing, and suspension bushes. Past Parts can supply a repair kit or overhaul parts for your car.

Rear brake calipers are inclined to wear and seizure, as are the handbrake cable attached to them. Rover P6 calipers can be adapted to fit however.

THE CLUB
Thankfully there’s an extremely active club for these cars which tries its utmost to help members find spares, new and unused. Various hard to get items such as rear brake discs have been remanufactured. Interior parts are on impossible to find though the club can often help. Cars with tatty interiors could cost a fortune to put right and you’re advised to check the interior thoroughly. There’s a lot of injection mouldings that can decay, and vast expanses of vinyl. The club get holds if any trim it can otherwise various trimmers will do their best. You can also keep looking on internet auction website or advertise for what you want in Classic Car Weekly.

OUR VERDICT

What is not to love? Today the surviving models of these cars are wonderful period pieces, loaded with 1960s add-ons. The styling is surely unique. The centre bit resembled the doors of a Mk2 Cortina with a huge boxy front equally boxy rear. Actually it all works rather well.

Even the basic Zephyrs were well equipped but the Zodiac. Wow! Twin headlamps, a cigar lighter, twin-speed wipers, massive seats and reversing lights. But hail the Executive, with sunroof, power steering, reclining front seats, walnut fascia and more power. Plus carpets you could hide in. But then there was the brightwork extending across the rear of the car, into which the lights were incorporated. An Executive in gold? Resistance would seriously be futile, and don’t forget these big Fords were thoroughly British in design, with a massive character all their own.

Ford Zephyr

FORD ESCORT RS COSWORTH REVIEW

Legendary performance and bold styling, the Escort RS Cosworth is Ford’s rally car for the road

First made available to the public in 1992, the Escort RS Cosworth was the hottest Ford to emerge from the blue oval since the RS200 ended production in 1986. Initially only 2500 road cars were produced in order to meet homologation rules for the World Rally Championship in which the car was set to compete. Original cars were all fitted with the distinctive whale-tail spoiler and were on sale for only two years between 1992 and 1994. Following successful homologation for the 1993 World Rally Championship, Ford adapted the car to make it more useable in everyday situations. The large Garret T3/T04B turbocharger was replaced by the Garret T25, which reduced turbo lag considerably.

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VITAL STATISTICS

FORD ESCORT RS COSWORTH

Engine                                    1993cc/DOHC/Turbo

Power (bhp@rpm)                  224bhp@6250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 224ft lb@3500rpm

Top speed                                137mph

0-60mph                                   6.3sec

Consumption                           25mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Despite being nearly 20 years old the bodywork should be in very good condition if the car has been well cared for. Like anything, they will rust if not properly looked after. Rust can creep in where the spoiler meets the boot, and the arches will eventually give in if dirt is allowed to collect. Front valances are quite low, so may have scratches and stone chips from hard driving. Many of these cars will have been modified by now, often badly. Check for rear bumpers being butchered to fit non-standard exhausts, likewise the front bumper for shoddily fitted front-mounted intercoolers. Though it looks for all the world like an Escort Mk V, it isn’t. Over 50 per cent of the panels were new, with the cars being bodied in Germany by Karmann. Replacement panels will be expensive and difficult to locate, so make sure there are no dings and dents. If there is rust on the car, particularly on the wings and bonnet, then it’s a fair indication that crash damage is lurking beneath. Check for fresh paintwork and clean engine bays.

ENGINE

At some point most Cosworths will have passed through the hands of boy racers, so the engine will have probably had a tough life. Engine rebuilds are horribly expensive, so its important you buy wisely. Start the engine from cold and take care to listen to all the noises the engine makes. Tappets may have a bit of a rattle, but if you hear a louder slapping noise walk away straight away. ‘Piston slap’ is a sure-fire sign that the engine is about to expire, so steer clear if there is any doubt in your mind. Bring a friend along to drive behind you on your test drive. Make sure you give it the beans and keep an eye out for any smoke when the engine is under load. Blue smoke will indicate that oil is leaking into the pistons, and white smoke will suggest the turbo is damaged. 

Many Cossies will have fallen foul amateur tuners, so make sure that the car is completely standard. Ideally you want a completely unmodified car that is as it was when it left the factory. If you are happy to buy a modified example, make sure that all the paperwork for the upgrades is present and that it has all been fitted by a reputable garage. If there is no supporting documentation, assume it’s been cooked up in someone’s garage. Be especially wary if the work has been carried out by a previous owner (invariably not an aerospace engineer). 

RUNNING GEAR

Unlike the standard Ford Escort, the Cosworth was always destined for the rally stages. Because of this it was fitted with four-wheel drive, making it more complicated than a standard car. Gearboxes are likely to have seen some hard miles, so listen out for any whining or rattling noises. Take the car on a long test drive through a variety of conditions. Make sure changes are sharp, there is little play, and that it doesn’t jump out of gear. As with most cars of this age CV joints will perish, so make sure you have a good feel underneath. Check that the brakes function well under hard braking, and that it doesn’t pull to either side or judder. 

Suspension should be very good; the RS Cosworth was hailed as one of the best handling cars of its generation. By now though, things may be getting a bit soft. If the car rolls in corners or is sitting low on its haunches then you should probably budget for a refresh. Check that it hasn’t been upgraded or had springs cut. Original Group N suspension is superb, so you want to avoid any aftermarket additions. Give each corner a good push; listen for any knocking noises that may indicate worn out parts.

INTERIOR

Cosworths were fitted with Recaro interiors in cloth and leather. Both sets are now rare due to the limited run of cars that was produced. As a result they’re expensive. Don’t bank on being able to replace the interior easily. Make sure that there is as little wear as possible, no rips, cigarette burns, or other signs of abuse. Re-trimming is an option, but this will adversely affect residual value. 

Electrics are generally good, but the Cossie does share a good deal of these components with the base models. While this does mean they’re more likely to go wrong, it also means parts are plentiful and cheap. Scrapyards are brim-full of Mk V Escorts just waiting to be cannibalised for spares. As with any car, make sure that all the electrical componentsand switches are working as advertised. 

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OUR VERDICT

The Escort Cosworth is a very capable road car and is now starting to look like an attractive investment. Cars are losing their negative image as they become increasingly rare. Ford really got it right first time round, so avoid any cars that have been bodged on a budget. Any aftermarket additions will hit the value of the car and add little to the experience. Be prepared to pay a premium for originality.

FORD SIERRA MKI 1982-1987 REVIEW

Once they were everywhere, but now Ford’s groundbreaking Sierra is an increasingly rare sight. We show you how to buy a good example of this extremely underrated classic...

Time hasn’t been kind to the Sierra. At its 1982 launch, loyal Ford buyers were put off its radical aerodynamic styling, even though its proven mechanicals were largely taken from the much-loved Cortina. After fighting the good sales fight against the Cavalier in a bid to become a familiar part of UK street furniture, the Sierra slipped into banger territory, and has struggled to pull itself out ever since.

Today, Ford’s spacious hatchback is something of a classic bargain. Prices are still rock-bottom for all but the sporty XR4i, and swivel-eyed Sierra Cosworth. Yet all models offer commendable drivability and are incredibly easy to live with. 
Buy one now, before they all disappear.

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VITAL STATISTICS

1983 FORD SIERRA 2.0

Engine                                    1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  103bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 116lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  10.4sec

Consumption                            35.8mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual.

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although less rot-prone than many classics, even the youngest of the first-generation Sierras is a quarter of a century old, so rust has had plenty of time to take hold. Inspect the sill structures closely; watch out for hurried MoT-pass repairs. Take a look at the condition of the footwells. A leaking sunroof will result in damp carpets, which will in turn lead to rot eating away at the floor-pans. Watch for rusty boot floors and lower rear wings.

With the bonnet open, check the inner wings, slam panel and front cross-member for corrosion or signs of accident damage. The sporty XR4i is all the more likely to have been crashed; rippling panels are the biggest clue to poorly-repaired accident damage. 

The condition of the suspension turrets, front and rear, is crucial; watch out for clumsy patches welded over rot. Grit and road spray give the inner wheel-arches a good pounding, while a rotten battery tray is tricky to put right.

Any bubbling beneath window rubbers will only get worse over time; this is a glass-out job to rectify. Take a good look at the sunroof aperture; blocked drainage holes will lead to rust. 

Doors rot around the windows, as well as their lower edges; the plastic trim of the XR4i hides the latter. Secondhand panels do occasionally turn up at breakers’ yards, although doors for the rare three-door models will take some finding.

ENGINE

The sprawling Sierra range used a number of different engines. The hardy Pinto was used in 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0-litre guises, along with a Peugeot-sourced 2.3-litre diesel engine. All are tough, and the Pinto can cover over 150,000 miles with regular oil changes, although if this hasn’t happened, oil blockage problems can destroy camshafts and followers. Look out for oil smoke under acceleration, as well as lubricant leaks.

Higher-spec models used the Cologne V6 in 2.3 or 2.8-litre sizes. These unstressed units can cover over 200,000 miles with care, although top-end valve gear chatter is a result of a lack of oil changes and/or poor quality oil. Ask how regularly the car has been serviced; low values mean that maintenance is neglected on many Sierras.

RUNNING GEAR

As hard-wearing as the engines, the transmissions used on the Sierra aren’t especially troublesome. Manual versions had either four or five gears (depending upon engine size and age), while automatics always had three ratios. All are tough, and should change smoothly, with the five-speed Type 9 still a popular modification for other classics. 

Oil level needs to have been maintained to avoid premature wear. However, if you’re test driving a XR4x4, beware of nasty noises while on the move; it could signify transfer box damage.

If the rubber suspension bushes have deteriorated, the car will feel a lot less sharp to drive than it should; inspect the bushes for the front lower arms and rear trailing arms in particular. Ineffective braking could be down to seized rear wheel cylinders, or excessively worn or warped front discs. Beware of XR4is that have lost their heavier-duty suspension dampers; have corners been cut in other areas of maintenance?

INTERIOR

Regardless of whether cloth or velour is fitted, the Sierra’s trim is quite hard wearing. This is just as well, as tracking down replacement trim will be a nightmare. High-mileage cars are more likely to be suffering from tears, stains and sagging bolsters on the driver’s seat, while carpets can go mouldy, if water is leaking into the cabin.

Check that all of the electrical functions – and there are many on the range-topping Ghia – still work. Plastics can fade and crack in the sun, and parcel shelves and door trims are often butchered to fit aftermarket speakers.

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OUR VERDICT

Competent, comfortable and easy to live with, the Sierra is still a smart motoring choice today. That explains why many survivors are still treated as everyday cars. Those fuel-saving aerodynamics, coupled with motorway-friendly gearing and thrifty engines ensure that almost all derivatives are still affordable to run. Sadly, most people have yet to cotton on to what outstanding value the Sierra offers. Grab one now, before they all disappear.

FORD CAPRI 2.8I REVIEW

Kept in production purely for British consumption...

The 2.8i featured numerous improvements over standard MkIII Capris including halogen headlamps, pepperpot alloys and a five-speed gearbox, with later 2.8i Special models gaining a colour-coded front grille, half-leather interior, limited slip differential and seven spoke RS wheels. Despite enthusiastic reviews by the motoring press, the Capri 2.8i failed to halt a steady downturn in sales, and, along with the 2.8i Special and 280 ‘Brooklands’, would be the last Capri model on sale, production winding up in 1986. 

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VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Capri 2.8i

Engine                                    2792cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  160bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 162ft lb@4200rpm

Top speed                                127mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            27mpg

Gearbox                                    4 & 5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Capris will rust pretty much anywhere, so it’s important you check as much of the car as humanly possible. Don’t just look for rust, but also for filler and signs of bodged repair work. Many Capris ended up in the wars, so you’ll need to be vigilant of poorly repaired crash damage, especially to the chassis. A magnet is a useful tool to take when viewing any potential purpose. Sills and arches should be the first place to check for rust.

Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty; feel along the back of the sills as high up as you can get. Repeat the procedure with the arches. Rust is often worse where you can’t see, so beware any cars that have corrosion underneath. The seams between the front wings and inner wings are also prone to corrosion, so it’s worth checking with the owner to see if the wings have been replaced at any point. 

Scuttles are prone to rusting in cars that haven’t been garaged, so lift the bonnet and inspect where the windscreen meets the bodywork. 

ENGINE

The 2.8-litre Cologne V6 is a robust unit, but as with any engine will suffer from the lack of proper maintenance. Regular oil changes are vital, so check that these have been carried out at the recommended intervals. Tuning options are fairly limited with the engine only responding well to forced induction, so most Capri 2.8is should be near enough as they left the factory. These engines are known to run quite hot, so it’s especially important to make sure it doesn’t overheat. Allow the car to heat up fully and check that the fan kicks in. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge – normal operating temperature will see the needle sit about halfway round the dial, but it can creep as far up as three quarters. As long as the fan prevents it going further then it should be fine. 

Head gaskets have been known to let go after about 100,000 miles, so check the service history to see if it’s still running on its original part. Make sure there is no mayonnaise under the oil filler cap. 

RUNNING GEAR

X-reg and early Y-reg cars were fitted with four-speed manual gearboxes, but later cars benefited from a five-speed unit. Vague gear selection is a common problem caused by wear to linkage bushes. It’s a relatively easy fix so don’t be overly concerned. A loud transmission that jumps out of gear is of more concern, and will mean that the gearbox is in need of an expensive rebuild. Synchromesh will wear with hard use, especially on second gear. 

Ordinary 2.8i models were fitted with open differentials, while 2.8i Specials and 280 models were upgraded to limited slip differentials (LSD). Despite this, many Specials have had their LSDs cannibalised for other fast Ford projects, mostly ending up in MkI Escorts. You need to check that an LSD is really fitted, especially at the lower end of the market. Jack the rear of the car up and turn one of the rear wheels. If the other wheel turns the opposite direction, then a normal open diff is fitted. If they turn the same direction then it is likely to be an LSD. But all may not be as it seems – welded open diffs will turn the same way. To tell the difference, lower the other wheel to the ground. If the free wheel still turns then an LSD is fitted, if not it’s welded, and you should steer well clear. 

INTERIOR

Early cars will be fitted with checked ‘Carla’ trim, with post April ‘83 cars equipped with Shark Grey cloth interior. 2.8i Specials were fitted with half-leather interior, which is more hardwearing than cloth. Pay particular attention to the driver’s seat bolster, making sure that any wear tallies with the displayed mileage. Dashboards can crack if exposed to heat for extended periods; check too for any stick-on replacements covers. Check that the heater blows hot and all the fan settings work. Replacement requires removal of the entire dashboard. 

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OUR VERDICT

Bar the top of the range 280 ‘Brooklands’, the 2.8-litre injection and 2.8i Special Capris are the ones to have. Though the 2.8i has less torque than the 3-litre Essex engine, it requires less maintenance and is more fuel efficient – perfect if you need reliable transport and not just a show queen. 160bhp may not seem a lot, but like so many cars, it’s the way the power is delivered that makes it such a hoot to drive. It has a reputation for being tail-happy, but to be honest, this is largely unfounded.

FORD CONSUL CLASSIC & CAPRI REVIEW

With prices rising, now could be the perfect time to buy this Ford

If the styling hasn’t already convinced you, then the driving experience offered by the Consul and Capri almost certainly will. Okay, the 1340cc model does feel a bit under-nourished on faster roads, so you’ll appreciate the extra power and torque of the 1500 on longer journeys. The need for less gear-changing makes the bigger-engined car a more relaxed mile-muncher too. 

Whichever one you choose, you’ll appreciate the smooth and responsive nature of the engines and the sweet gearshift, while good ride comfort and powerful brakes make negotiating today’s crowded and potholed roads a pleasurable experience, although the steering does lack the sharpness of later rack-and-pinion systems. 

It isn’t just the open road where you’ll enjoy this car either – there’s excellent visibility provided by the thin screen pillars while light controls means it’s stress-free in traffic. The spacious and comfortable cabin has a four-door option, good for family use.   

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VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Consul Classic & Capri

Engine                                    1498cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  59bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 79lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  20.1sec

Consumption                            26mpg

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although fundamentally strong, the Consul’s monocoque body is prone to corrosion in a number of areas. At the front, the headlamp surrounds, inner and outer wings, and suspension strut top mounts are the main areas to check, along with the rear edge of the front wing where it meets the A-post. The sills, jacking points, rear wheel arches, rear valance, and floorpan/spare wheel well are other known rot-spots so don’t ignore signs of problems here. While later 1500 models were better protected, a thorough check of all panel seams and box sections is strongly advised, whatever the model.  

Differences in design and construction means there are rust problems unique to the Capri. However, the Consul’s complex, triple-skinned windscreen pillars are particularly at risk while the roof guttering and rear bulkhead area can also suffer. 

ENGINE

The original 1340cc engine is a bit underpowered for such a heavy car and the three-bearing crankshaft was a weak point that threatened terminal failure on hard-used cars. The latter 1500 unit avoided both issues and is a common swap, so be sure you know what’s been fitted. Oil leaks can be a common problem but are generally easy to cure, while excessive blue smoke is most likely going to be caused by worn valve guides or piston rings. Radiator blinds were an option when new and are a nice original touch now, so check they work if fitted. Evidence of regular maintenance will provide reassurance whichever engine you choose but with a re-build a manageable DIY task, it’s the condition of the bodywork that is most important. Lastly, the Capri GT included a twin-choke Weber carburettor and four-branch exhaust manifold among other tweaks, so watch for badge-swaps on run-of-the-mill models.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox with floor or column shift presents few problems, though it’s worth noting that early models lacked synchromesh on 

first gear, something rectified on 1500s. The test drive should reveal any issues with ‘box or differential but neither are hugely expensive to
fix should the worst happen, so this shouldn’t be
a reason to reject an otherwise solid example. Gearbox swaps – including automatics – are
fairly common, so you’ll want to quiz the owner about the standard of any work done. Clunks
from the driveline when applying or lifting off the throttle can be caused by worn propshaft joints.

The strut front suspension and leaf-sprung rear axle are reliable arrangements that can be overhauled at a reasonable cost, leaking dampers and sagging rear springs being the extent of the problems you’re likely to encounter. It’s worth noting that smaller-engined models had a variety of greasing points that needed attention every 10,000 miles or so, an arrangement that was dropped for the 1500. The front disc/rear drum brakes were advanced for a family car of the time and were again trouble-free, though watch for seizure on little-used cars. Some steering parts were unique to the Classic so replacement bits can be hard to obtain, perhaps more so on the later models surprisingly – worth bearing in mind if you think an overhaul is on the cards.

INTERIOR

The stylish interior was a real plus point and the good news is that just about every part is available including the dashboard and gauges. Notable features at the time included variable speed wipers and a headlamp flasher, so make sure these are working.

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OUR VERDICT

A combination of good looks, dependable mechanicals, and excellent owner’s club support make the Consul Classic/Capri almost the perfect starter classic. We say ‘almost’ because its reputation for rust isn’t unfounded, which means you need to buy carefully if you’re to avoid a restoration money pit. As long as you bear that aspect in mind, there is little else to stop you enjoying this excellent Ford with a cherished 1500 model being our pick of the bunch.

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FERRARI F40 REVIEW

In 1987, Ferrari turned the motoring world on its head by launching the Ferrari F40 – a car that has gone to be hailed as the best super car ever made.

The F40 was born out of the 288 GTO project that had come before it, an evolution model of which was designed to compete against Porsche in the FIA Group B category. In 1986, however, Group B was canned, leaving Ferrari with a number of development cars – and a hefty bill to boot. It was decided that Enzo Ferrari would have one last hurrah, turning the 288 GTO project into a road going super car – the Ferrari F40. It would be the last car that he personally had a hand in developing.
The F40 showcased all of the latest weight saving techniques and materials, sporting Kevlar panels and extensive use of carbon fibre and aluminium. Even the windscreen and side windows were made from plastic in order to save weight. The end result was a car that tipped the scales at only 1100kg. Though incredibly light and aerodynamic, it was the engine that really gave the F40 its character – a 2936cc twin-turbocharged V8 that was capable of producing an incredible 471bhp. This was enough to propel the F40 to 60mph in just 4.1 seconds and reach a top speed of 201mph – the first production sports car to achieve the feat.
Production of the F40 would continue until 1992, by which time Ferrari had produced 1315 F40s, including a small number of specced-up Competizione models designed to compete on track. In its five-year production life the F40 would become one of the most desirable cars of all time, becoming a legend not only for its blistering performance statistics, but for its beautiful Pininfarina bodywork.
Today, the Ferrari F40 is still the stuff of young boys’ dreams. Built in a time before the introduction of electronic driving aids, the F40 is hailed as being one of the last true drivers’ cars.

Most people who buy F40s do so as an investment, as values will only rise with the passage of time. Buyers demand very low mileage, impeccable history and immaculate condition – keep this in mind.

VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 2936cc/8-cyl/DOH
POWER 471bhp@7000rpm
TORQUE 426lb ft@4000rpm
TOP SPEED 201mph
0-60MPH 3.8secs
ECONOMY 17mpg
GEARBOX 5-speed manual
 

FERRARI 308 REVIEW

They call this an entry-level Ferrari, so why we haven’t all got a 308? Ferrari introduced the 308 GTB at the 1975 Paris Show partly as a face-saving operation. Its first car with the 3.0-litre V8 engine, the Bertone-styled 308 GT4, hadn’t sold too well, and so Ferrari asked Pininfarina to deliver a stunning two-seater around a mid-engined space-frame chassis.

The Italian studio did exactly as asked, and the Ferrari 308 GTB styled by Leonardo Fioravanti (the man behind the Daytona, among others) was probably one of the prettiest Ferraris ever. To save time getting the car into production, the first examples had GRP bodies, although builder Scaglietti switched to steel from June 1977.The GTB was joined by a targa-roofed 308 GTS in 1977, and then in 1980 the carburettors were replaced by fuel injection, mainly to meet US emissions regulations. The 308 GTBi and 308 GTSi were down on power, and so Ferrari set about developing a Quattrovalvole (four-valve) version of the engine with a higher compression. This arrived in 1982 and brought power and performance back up to scratch.

The GT4’s 2+2 layout makes this a very practical and comfortable Ferrari, with longer front-seat adjustment than the two seaters. By placing the
front seats well forward, Bertone made room for two children (or one sideways-seated adult) in the rear, while the compact engine/transaxle package left space behind the engine bay for a luggage compartment. Four twin-choke Webers make starting unforgettable too. Well it is a Ferrari, after all. As Ferraris go, then, the 308 GT4 is surprisingly practical, while its classic status is growing and you’d have to be mad to argue with that 3.0-litre, quad-cam, all-alloy V8 punching out 250bhp. It gives this 1326kg four-seater a fair turn of speed and handling on the all-independent suspension is perfectly respectable, with a longer wheelbase than two-seater cars calming the potential for those scary mid-engined, mid-corner moments. Whatever your views on the looks, you can’t argue with the power, the noise, the handling or the heritage. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1973 308 GT4

Engine                                    2927cc/V8/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  250bhp@7700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 210lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                154mph

0-60mph                                  6.9sec

Consumption                            19.8mpg  

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Start by opening the bonnet, doors and boot, looking carefully at all the panel edges and establishing whether they have begun to corrode. The bonnet and bootlid are made of aluminium, but the rest of the panels are steel over a stretched 246GT chassis (also prone to corrosion), so check that thoroughly too. Rear wheelarches rot, along with most of the lower panels such as the sills, valances and quarter panels. Likewise the lower edges of the doors, especially if the drain holes have become clogged, meaning they rot from the inside out. 

ENGINE

308 engines are known to be strong and usually last well. The compact and powerful motor can sit at the redline all day long and love it. As long as there’s plenty of quality oil in it, it won’t let you down. The two-valve engines had sodium-filled exhaust valves to dissipate heat. As they get old the valves can become brittle. Some owners have had issues with these valves breaking, leading to the need for an engine re-build in the worst cases.

Carburettor-fed cars are known for their relatively weak spark due to the points-based ignition system, meaning plug fouling is common. Many owners run a hotter plug than the owner’s manual recommends – NGK BP5ES is the most popular – to cut down on this. Other use a hotter coil, though this can be hard on the points. Fitting electronic ignition is the best way to address the issue – no fouling, better combustion, a more solid idle and lower emissions. 

ELECTRICS

Radiators can become silted up if the system isn’t flushed often enough, made worse when the fans do not come on because of electrical issues, so check both. Another very common problem is that the cooling system has not been bled properly and this almost always results in a car that runs too hot or overheats completely. Because the engine is in the back and the radiator in the front, the system has to be bled at both ends. 

The electric windows on these cars are terrible, thanks to a combination of a lousy design involving cables and pulleys, a weak motor and wear and tear. Most operate extremely slowly. Many people attempt to fix it by lubing the window tracks or even replacing the motors, but neither usually works. The problem is grease in the gearbox that connects the electric motor to the cable system. Over time it hardens and the resistance makes it almost impossible for the motor to turn the mechanism. The solution is to take it all apart, clean out the old hardened grease with a solvent, and replace it with fresh lithium grease. A time consuming job, but it works wonders. 

RUNNING GEAR

The 308’s transmission is notoriously notchy and can be especially reluctant to go into second gear when cold. The gated shifter can be tricky to get used to, but it’s pleasingly positive once warmed though. Clutches don’t last very long – perhaps 20,000 miles.

Suspension bushings are a common wear item on 308s. After 30 years, the original rubber bushings will be either cracked and shredded, or horribly perished. Fortunately polyurethane versions are now available, which are much better than the originals. 

The electrical systems are notoriously weak, but this seems to be mostly due to the badly designed fusebox, which can be replaced or upgraded to an improved aftermarket version.

BRAKES

Low mileage is a major selling point, but a lack of use can cause the brake calipers to seize. Check that the tyres all match and show good tread. The original factory 16" Speedline wheels are highly favoured. Similar aftermarket wheels can be tricky to balance. Larger wheels are a no-no. Some 308s used Metric rim and tyres. At £250 a tyre, it makes more sense to store the metric wheels and buy imperial replacements.

INTERIOR

Replacement column stalks are very hard to find, so make sure they operate correctly. Check the interior for wear. If the car has low mileage, check the state of the top of the dashboard binnacle. This can get caught by the driver's fingernails so will often be raggy on higher mileage examples, or those that have been driven hard. Seat bolsters wear. The GTS (from 1977 and so always steel-bodied) has a very good Targa top that should not allow water in. However, the panel can be damaged in storage – it goes behind the front seats. It can then hamper an already unusual driving position, so make sure you can actually get comfortable behind the wheel.

OUR VERDICT

There are two reasons why the GT4 has always been seen as a lesser Ferrari: those opinion-polarising Bertone lines; and the fact that it’s a four-seater. ‘Proper’ Ferraris should not have space for four and must be designed by Pininfarina – or that’s what the infamous ‘they’ would have you believe. But don’t believe the hype – this car looks great, handles brilliantly and is as fast as you are ever going to need. Yet a decent one will cost you no more than a two-year-old repmobile, which will continue to shed value faster than yesterday’s newspapers. It is imperative to get an expert to look over a prospective purchase to ensure it’s as good as it seems. If it is, snap it up and enjoy before prices start to follow the 308 and 328 GTB/GTS.

Most classic car enthusiasts have fantasised about owning a Ferrari at some point in their life. The 308 GT4 offers a lusty V8 engine, housed in an exotic mid-mounted fashion, yet it’s a machine that’s frequently scoffed at. As a result, you can pick one up for less than £15,000 – and there’s even space in the back to bring the kids along for the ride. Well, as long as they’re very small.

The 308 GT4 was both the debut mid-engined V8 from Ferrari and a slap in the face for Pininfarina, which previously assumed it had the Maranello design gig sewn up. The Bertone-styled 308 was badged as a Dino for the first three years of its life and the 2+2 layout and wedge profile were controversial to say the least. Trim is typically Seventies, including Fiat X1/9 door handles, but the dashboard, with its toggles and sliders, is like a Blaxploitation movie mixing desk. The 308 GT4 is sneered at by Ferrari snobs, but pay them no heed: it’s actually a pretty cool car.