capri

FORD CAPRI 2.8I REVIEW

Kept in production purely for British consumption...

capri1.jpg

The 2.8i featured numerous improvements over standard MkIII Capris including halogen headlamps, pepperpot alloys and a five-speed gearbox, with later 2.8i Special models gaining a colour-coded front grille, half-leather interior, limited slip differential and seven spoke RS wheels. Despite enthusiastic reviews by the motoring press, the Capri 2.8i failed to halt a steady downturn in sales, and, along with the 2.8i Special and 280 ‘Brooklands’, would be the last Capri model on sale, production winding up in 1986. 


VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Capri 2.8i

Engine                                    2792cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  160bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 162ft lb@4200rpm

Top speed                                127mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            27mpg

Gearbox                                    4 & 5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Capris will rust pretty much anywhere, so it’s important you check as much of the car as humanly possible. Don’t just look for rust, but also for filler and signs of bodged repair work. Many Capris ended up in the wars, so you’ll need to be vigilant of poorly repaired crash damage, especially to the chassis. A magnet is a useful tool to take when viewing any potential purpose. Sills and arches should be the first place to check for rust.

Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty; feel along the back of the sills as high up as you can get. Repeat the procedure with the arches. Rust is often worse where you can’t see, so beware any cars that have corrosion underneath. The seams between the front wings and inner wings are also prone to corrosion, so it’s worth checking with the owner to see if the wings have been replaced at any point. 

Scuttles are prone to rusting in cars that haven’t been garaged, so lift the bonnet and inspect where the windscreen meets the bodywork. 

 

ENGINE

The 2.8-litre Cologne V6 is a robust unit, but as with any engine will suffer from the lack of proper maintenance. Regular oil changes are vital, so check that these have been carried out at the recommended intervals. Tuning options are fairly limited with the engine only responding well to forced induction, so most Capri 2.8is should be near enough as they left the factory. These engines are known to run quite hot, so it’s especially important to make sure it doesn’t overheat. Allow the car to heat up fully and check that the fan kicks in. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge – normal operating temperature will see the needle sit about halfway round the dial, but it can creep as far up as three quarters. As long as the fan prevents it going further then it should be fine. 

Head gaskets have been known to let go after about 100,000 miles, so check the service history to see if it’s still running on its original part. Make sure there is no mayonnaise under the oil filler cap. 

capri3.jpg

RUNNING GEAR

X-reg and early Y-reg cars were fitted with four-speed manual gearboxes, but later cars benefited from a five-speed unit. Vague gear selection is a common problem caused by wear to linkage bushes. It’s a relatively easy fix so don’t be overly concerned. A loud transmission that jumps out of gear is of more concern, and will mean that the gearbox is in need of an expensive rebuild. Synchromesh will wear with hard use, especially on second gear. 

Ordinary 2.8i models were fitted with open differentials, while 2.8i Specials and 280 models were upgraded to limited slip differentials (LSD). Despite this, many Specials have had their LSDs cannibalised for other fast Ford projects, mostly ending up in MkI Escorts. You need to check that an LSD is really fitted, especially at the lower end of the market. Jack the rear of the car up and turn one of the rear wheels. If the other wheel turns the opposite direction, then a normal open diff is fitted. If they turn the same direction then it is likely to be an LSD. But all may not be as it seems – welded open diffs will turn the same way. To tell the difference, lower the other wheel to the ground. If the free wheel still turns then an LSD is fitted, if not it’s welded, and you should steer well clear. 

INTERIOR

Early cars will be fitted with checked ‘Carla’ trim, with post April ‘83 cars equipped with Shark Grey cloth interior. 2.8i Specials were fitted with half-leather interior, which is more hardwearing than cloth. Pay particular attention to the driver’s seat bolster, making sure that any wear tallies with the displayed mileage. Dashboards can crack if exposed to heat for extended periods; check too for any stick-on replacements covers. Check that the heater blows hot and all the fan settings work. Replacement requires removal of the entire dashboard. 

capri2.jpg

OUR VERDICT

Bar the top of the range 280 ‘Brooklands’, the 2.8-litre injection and 2.8i Special Capris are the ones to have. Though the 2.8i has less torque than the 3-litre Essex engine, it requires less maintenance and is more fuel efficient – perfect if you need reliable transport and not just a show queen. 160bhp may not seem a lot, but like so many cars, it’s the way the power is delivered that makes it such a hoot to drive. It has a reputation for being tail-happy, but to be honest, this is largely unfounded.

FORD CONSUL CLASSIC & CAPRI REVIEW

With prices rising, now could be the perfect time to buy this Ford

If the styling hasn’t already convinced you, then the driving experience offered by the Consul and Capri almost certainly will. Okay, the 1340cc model does feel a bit under-nourished on faster roads, so you’ll appreciate the extra power and torque of the 1500 on longer journeys. The need for less gear-changing makes the bigger-engined car a more relaxed mile-muncher too. 

Whichever one you choose, you’ll appreciate the smooth and responsive nature of the engines and the sweet gearshift, while good ride comfort and powerful brakes make negotiating today’s crowded and potholed roads a pleasurable experience, although the steering does lack the sharpness of later rack-and-pinion systems. 

It isn’t just the open road where you’ll enjoy this car either – there’s excellent visibility provided by the thin screen pillars while light controls means it’s stress-free in traffic. The spacious and comfortable cabin has a four-door option, good for family use.   


VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Consul Classic & Capri

Engine                                    1498cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  59bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 79lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  20.1sec

Consumption                            26mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although fundamentally strong, the Consul’s monocoque body is prone to corrosion in a number of areas. At the front, the headlamp surrounds, inner and outer wings, and suspension strut top mounts are the main areas to check, along with the rear edge of the front wing where it meets the A-post. The sills, jacking points, rear wheel arches, rear valance, and floorpan/spare wheel well are other known rot-spots so don’t ignore signs of problems here. While later 1500 models were better protected, a thorough check of all panel seams and box sections is strongly advised, whatever the model.  

Differences in design and construction means there are rust problems unique to the Capri. However, the Consul’s complex, triple-skinned windscreen pillars are particularly at risk while the roof guttering and rear bulkhead area can also suffer. 

 

ENGINE

The original 1340cc engine is a bit underpowered for such a heavy car and the three-bearing crankshaft was a weak point that threatened terminal failure on hard-used cars. The latter 1500 unit avoided both issues and is a common swap, so be sure you know what’s been fitted. Oil leaks can be a common problem but are generally easy to cure, while excessive blue smoke is most likely going to be caused by worn valve guides or piston rings. Radiator blinds were an option when new and are a nice original touch now, so check they work if fitted. Evidence of regular maintenance will provide reassurance whichever engine you choose but with a re-build a manageable DIY task, it’s the condition of the bodywork that is most important. Lastly, the Capri GT included a twin-choke Weber carburettor and four-branch exhaust manifold among other tweaks, so watch for badge-swaps on run-of-the-mill models.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox with floor or column shift presents few problems, though it’s worth noting that early models lacked synchromesh on 

first gear, something rectified on 1500s. The test drive should reveal any issues with ‘box or differential but neither are hugely expensive to
fix should the worst happen, so this shouldn’t be
a reason to reject an otherwise solid example. Gearbox swaps – including automatics – are
fairly common, so you’ll want to quiz the owner about the standard of any work done. Clunks
from the driveline when applying or lifting off the throttle can be caused by worn propshaft joints.

The strut front suspension and leaf-sprung rear axle are reliable arrangements that can be overhauled at a reasonable cost, leaking dampers and sagging rear springs being the extent of the problems you’re likely to encounter. It’s worth noting that smaller-engined models had a variety of greasing points that needed attention every 10,000 miles or so, an arrangement that was dropped for the 1500. The front disc/rear drum brakes were advanced for a family car of the time and were again trouble-free, though watch for seizure on little-used cars. Some steering parts were unique to the Classic so replacement bits can be hard to obtain, perhaps more so on the later models surprisingly – worth bearing in mind if you think an overhaul is on the cards.


INTERIOR

The stylish interior was a real plus point and the good news is that just about every part is available including the dashboard and gauges. Notable features at the time included variable speed wipers and a headlamp flasher, so make sure these are working.


OUR VERDICT

A combination of good looks, dependable mechanicals, and excellent owner’s club support make the Consul Classic/Capri almost the perfect starter classic. We say ‘almost’ because its reputation for rust isn’t unfounded, which means you need to buy carefully if you’re to avoid a restoration money pit. As long as you bear that aspect in mind, there is little else to stop you enjoying this excellent Ford with a cherished 1500 model being our pick of the bunch.