FERRARI TESTAROSSA REVIEW

Ferrari’s 1984 Testarossa is the embodiment of the breath-taking supercar. It’s also one of the most svelte and seductive performers from the stable of the prancing horse, offering an accessibility and ease of use which has sometimes earned it the criticism of being a poser’s car.

You can’t deny that, after the initial slightly ungracious entry to the 45-inch-low cabin, there is little resistance to your setting off and just driving, save for a baulking gear change when cold. But its abilities run far deeper than merely cruising the trendiest streets in town.
You immediately notice the Testarossa’s willingness to trot smoothly along in traffic, just on tickover. At slow speeds, the steering lets you feel the machine’s size and weight (60 per cent of which is located to the mid and rear), but it’s never intimidating. Still, you’re aware that the nose drops immediately out of sight and those straked sides swell out to more than six foot in width at the back.
None of that will deter you – there’s something terribly compelling in the way that, as you gently press your right foot forward, the power rolls up out of nowhere. There’s no jerk or shove – 2500rpm just appears under the bright orange tacho needle and climbs, the muted burr of the engine (which sounds like a robot playing a didgeridoo at walking pace) warming into a darker growl.
There’s a slight tensing across your shoulder muscles as you push the lever through the gate claws, encountering heavy resistance followed by a sudden submission and that silken power immediately there again – any gear, any gradient. Suddenly you realise that your perceived 40mph is actually 70mph and the Ferrari Testarossa is limbering up, dismissing bends with only slight inferences of your forearms and sensitive control of the pedals.
Finally, on long straights, the growl gives way to the wailing of the exhaust as the thing sucks the road beneath it, turning it into a streaking grey blur. You’ll back down way before the Ferrari does.
There are times where you might want the more guttural sound and shove of its older sister, the 512BB, or the ten-tenths mechanical communication of deadly rival the Lamborghini Countach. But as you drive a Testarossa, catching a glimpse of the sweeping lines in reflections and dipping into that towering ability to cover ground so quickly and effortlessly, you realise that probably no one has created a more capable or charismatic sports tourer.

Ferrari Testarossa

FERRARI F40 REVIEW

In 1987, Ferrari turned the motoring world on its head by launching the Ferrari F40 – a car that has gone to be hailed as the best super car ever made.

The F40 was born out of the 288 GTO project that had come before it, an evolution model of which was designed to compete against Porsche in the FIA Group B category. In 1986, however, Group B was canned, leaving Ferrari with a number of development cars – and a hefty bill to boot. It was decided that Enzo Ferrari would have one last hurrah, turning the 288 GTO project into a road going super car – the Ferrari F40. It would be the last car that he personally had a hand in developing.
The F40 showcased all of the latest weight saving techniques and materials, sporting Kevlar panels and extensive use of carbon fibre and aluminium. Even the windscreen and side windows were made from plastic in order to save weight. The end result was a car that tipped the scales at only 1100kg. Though incredibly light and aerodynamic, it was the engine that really gave the F40 its character – a 2936cc twin-turbocharged V8 that was capable of producing an incredible 471bhp. This was enough to propel the F40 to 60mph in just 4.1 seconds and reach a top speed of 201mph – the first production sports car to achieve the feat.
Production of the F40 would continue until 1992, by which time Ferrari had produced 1315 F40s, including a small number of specced-up Competizione models designed to compete on track. In its five-year production life the F40 would become one of the most desirable cars of all time, becoming a legend not only for its blistering performance statistics, but for its beautiful Pininfarina bodywork.
Today, the Ferrari F40 is still the stuff of young boys’ dreams. Built in a time before the introduction of electronic driving aids, the F40 is hailed as being one of the last true drivers’ cars.

Most people who buy F40s do so as an investment, as values will only rise with the passage of time. Buyers demand very low mileage, impeccable history and immaculate condition – keep this in mind.

VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 2936cc/8-cyl/DOH
POWER 471bhp@7000rpm
TORQUE 426lb ft@4000rpm
TOP SPEED 201mph
0-60MPH 3.8secs
ECONOMY 17mpg
GEARBOX 5-speed manual
 

FERRARI 308 REVIEW

They call this an entry-level Ferrari, so why we haven’t all got a 308? Ferrari introduced the 308 GTB at the 1975 Paris Show partly as a face-saving operation. Its first car with the 3.0-litre V8 engine, the Bertone-styled 308 GT4, hadn’t sold too well, and so Ferrari asked Pininfarina to deliver a stunning two-seater around a mid-engined space-frame chassis.

The Italian studio did exactly as asked, and the Ferrari 308 GTB styled by Leonardo Fioravanti (the man behind the Daytona, among others) was probably one of the prettiest Ferraris ever. To save time getting the car into production, the first examples had GRP bodies, although builder Scaglietti switched to steel from June 1977.The GTB was joined by a targa-roofed 308 GTS in 1977, and then in 1980 the carburettors were replaced by fuel injection, mainly to meet US emissions regulations. The 308 GTBi and 308 GTSi were down on power, and so Ferrari set about developing a Quattrovalvole (four-valve) version of the engine with a higher compression. This arrived in 1982 and brought power and performance back up to scratch.

The GT4’s 2+2 layout makes this a very practical and comfortable Ferrari, with longer front-seat adjustment than the two seaters. By placing the
front seats well forward, Bertone made room for two children (or one sideways-seated adult) in the rear, while the compact engine/transaxle package left space behind the engine bay for a luggage compartment. Four twin-choke Webers make starting unforgettable too. Well it is a Ferrari, after all. As Ferraris go, then, the 308 GT4 is surprisingly practical, while its classic status is growing and you’d have to be mad to argue with that 3.0-litre, quad-cam, all-alloy V8 punching out 250bhp. It gives this 1326kg four-seater a fair turn of speed and handling on the all-independent suspension is perfectly respectable, with a longer wheelbase than two-seater cars calming the potential for those scary mid-engined, mid-corner moments. Whatever your views on the looks, you can’t argue with the power, the noise, the handling or the heritage. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1973 308 GT4

Engine                                    2927cc/V8/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  250bhp@7700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 210lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                154mph

0-60mph                                  6.9sec

Consumption                            19.8mpg  

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Start by opening the bonnet, doors and boot, looking carefully at all the panel edges and establishing whether they have begun to corrode. The bonnet and bootlid are made of aluminium, but the rest of the panels are steel over a stretched 246GT chassis (also prone to corrosion), so check that thoroughly too. Rear wheelarches rot, along with most of the lower panels such as the sills, valances and quarter panels. Likewise the lower edges of the doors, especially if the drain holes have become clogged, meaning they rot from the inside out. 

ENGINE

308 engines are known to be strong and usually last well. The compact and powerful motor can sit at the redline all day long and love it. As long as there’s plenty of quality oil in it, it won’t let you down. The two-valve engines had sodium-filled exhaust valves to dissipate heat. As they get old the valves can become brittle. Some owners have had issues with these valves breaking, leading to the need for an engine re-build in the worst cases.

Carburettor-fed cars are known for their relatively weak spark due to the points-based ignition system, meaning plug fouling is common. Many owners run a hotter plug than the owner’s manual recommends – NGK BP5ES is the most popular – to cut down on this. Other use a hotter coil, though this can be hard on the points. Fitting electronic ignition is the best way to address the issue – no fouling, better combustion, a more solid idle and lower emissions. 

ELECTRICS

Radiators can become silted up if the system isn’t flushed often enough, made worse when the fans do not come on because of electrical issues, so check both. Another very common problem is that the cooling system has not been bled properly and this almost always results in a car that runs too hot or overheats completely. Because the engine is in the back and the radiator in the front, the system has to be bled at both ends. 

The electric windows on these cars are terrible, thanks to a combination of a lousy design involving cables and pulleys, a weak motor and wear and tear. Most operate extremely slowly. Many people attempt to fix it by lubing the window tracks or even replacing the motors, but neither usually works. The problem is grease in the gearbox that connects the electric motor to the cable system. Over time it hardens and the resistance makes it almost impossible for the motor to turn the mechanism. The solution is to take it all apart, clean out the old hardened grease with a solvent, and replace it with fresh lithium grease. A time consuming job, but it works wonders. 

RUNNING GEAR

The 308’s transmission is notoriously notchy and can be especially reluctant to go into second gear when cold. The gated shifter can be tricky to get used to, but it’s pleasingly positive once warmed though. Clutches don’t last very long – perhaps 20,000 miles.

Suspension bushings are a common wear item on 308s. After 30 years, the original rubber bushings will be either cracked and shredded, or horribly perished. Fortunately polyurethane versions are now available, which are much better than the originals. 

The electrical systems are notoriously weak, but this seems to be mostly due to the badly designed fusebox, which can be replaced or upgraded to an improved aftermarket version.

BRAKES

Low mileage is a major selling point, but a lack of use can cause the brake calipers to seize. Check that the tyres all match and show good tread. The original factory 16" Speedline wheels are highly favoured. Similar aftermarket wheels can be tricky to balance. Larger wheels are a no-no. Some 308s used Metric rim and tyres. At £250 a tyre, it makes more sense to store the metric wheels and buy imperial replacements.

INTERIOR

Replacement column stalks are very hard to find, so make sure they operate correctly. Check the interior for wear. If the car has low mileage, check the state of the top of the dashboard binnacle. This can get caught by the driver's fingernails so will often be raggy on higher mileage examples, or those that have been driven hard. Seat bolsters wear. The GTS (from 1977 and so always steel-bodied) has a very good Targa top that should not allow water in. However, the panel can be damaged in storage – it goes behind the front seats. It can then hamper an already unusual driving position, so make sure you can actually get comfortable behind the wheel.

OUR VERDICT

There are two reasons why the GT4 has always been seen as a lesser Ferrari: those opinion-polarising Bertone lines; and the fact that it’s a four-seater. ‘Proper’ Ferraris should not have space for four and must be designed by Pininfarina – or that’s what the infamous ‘they’ would have you believe. But don’t believe the hype – this car looks great, handles brilliantly and is as fast as you are ever going to need. Yet a decent one will cost you no more than a two-year-old repmobile, which will continue to shed value faster than yesterday’s newspapers. It is imperative to get an expert to look over a prospective purchase to ensure it’s as good as it seems. If it is, snap it up and enjoy before prices start to follow the 308 and 328 GTB/GTS.

Most classic car enthusiasts have fantasised about owning a Ferrari at some point in their life. The 308 GT4 offers a lusty V8 engine, housed in an exotic mid-mounted fashion, yet it’s a machine that’s frequently scoffed at. As a result, you can pick one up for less than £15,000 – and there’s even space in the back to bring the kids along for the ride. Well, as long as they’re very small.

The 308 GT4 was both the debut mid-engined V8 from Ferrari and a slap in the face for Pininfarina, which previously assumed it had the Maranello design gig sewn up. The Bertone-styled 308 was badged as a Dino for the first three years of its life and the 2+2 layout and wedge profile were controversial to say the least. Trim is typically Seventies, including Fiat X1/9 door handles, but the dashboard, with its toggles and sliders, is like a Blaxploitation movie mixing desk. The 308 GT4 is sneered at by Ferrari snobs, but pay them no heed: it’s actually a pretty cool car. 

FERRARI F355 REVIEW

We all want a Ferrari F355 - here's why.
 

The Ferrari F355 model name was derived from the 3496cc V8 with 5 valves per cylinder, an additional 91cc and 60bhp over the previous model. With Nicasil coated steel liners, titanium alloy conrods were used, connected to forged alloy pistons. New cylinder heads used three inlet and two exhaust valves per cylinder, operated via hydraulic tappets from four overhead camshafts the valve springs rated to 10,000 rpm! The all-round double wishbone suspension with Bilstein shock absorbers was now continually adjustable via electronic sensors, according to the speed and attitude of the car, taking the Ferrari 355 into an altogether higher league of handling. A special undertray was now fitted, introducing a ground effect which caused negative lift and so increased road adhesion. Power steering was standard and the ABS braking system could be switched on or off. With six-speeds, a stronger clutch and an incredible 380bhp at 8,250 rpm, 60mph (96kph) appeared in just 4.6 seconds, 100mph (161kph) in a staggering 10.6 seconds, a top speed of 185mph (298kph) achievable. Three body styles were offered, the Berlinetta coupe, GTS targa top, and a Spider.

FERRARI DINO REVIEW

It’s amazing to think that the Ferrari Dino was disowned by its maker, sold without any references to the prancing horse, because it packed a mere six cylinders.

One of the most desirable Ferraris ever made, thanks to its picture perfect shape, the 206GT (and later the 246GT) was the first baby Ferrari after a series of front-engined V12 cars.

The car went on to sell brilliantly, with 2487 GTs and 1274 GTSs produced, around a fifth of which came to the UK. Their desirability has led to rocketing values with the Daytona-seated, wide-arched and wheeled ‘chairs and flairs spec most desirable and costly. 

If you’re the financial position to afford a Ferrari Dino your first priority is to make sure the body is healthy and the second is to check the condition of the engine. These are the most expensive areas to fix and the ones which give problems the most frequently. Make sure the car is as good underneath as it is on top – it’s easy to have a great looking body but a rotten (and expensive to repair) chassis.

Remove the panel inside the rear wheelarch and look up the sills past the fuel tank – if it’s been repaired well here (and it’s unlikely to be untouched) it’ll be good throughout. Make sure you get a proper inspection by somebody who knows the cars well – the price of an inspection will easily be recouped if the car needs work, which it probably will do. 
Although it’s possible to get your fingers burned buying a Dino, there are plenty of superbly restored cars out there thanks to the boom two decades ago that saw values rise briefly into the stratosphere. It used to be the case that cars had been thrashed and serviced infrequently – now the opposite is true as owners pamper them and rarely give them any exercise.

Finally, don’t believe any claims of low mileage as speedos are easy to disconnect and frequently are. The most important thing is to get an inspection and look at any history file or photos of work done and to buy on condition rather than mileage.

 

FERRARI 308 GT4 REVIEW

Unfairly regarded as the ugly duckling of the Ferrari family for many years, the 308 GT4 has finally come of age. We check out the wedgy V8...

The GT4’s 2+2 layout makes this a very practical and comfortable Ferrari, with longer front-seat adjustment than the two seaters. By placing the front seats well forward, Bertone made room for two children (or one sideways-seated adult) in the rear, while the compact engine/transaxle package left space behind the engine bay for a luggage compartment.

Four twin-choke Webers make starting unforgettable too. Well it is a Ferrari, after all. As Ferraris go, then, the 308 GT4 is surprisingly practical, while its classic status is growing and you’d have to be mad to argue with that 3.0-litre, quad-cam, all-alloy V8 punching out 250bhp. It gives this 1326kg four-seater a fair turn of speed and handling on the all-independent suspension is perfectly respectable, with a longer wheelbase than two-seater cars calming the potential for those scary mid-engined, mid-corner moments. Whatever your views on the looks, you can’t argue with the power, the noise, the handling or the heritage. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1973 308 GT4

Engine                                    2927cc/V8/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  250bhp@7700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 210lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                154mph

0-60mph                                   6.9sec

Consumption                            19.8mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Start by opening the bonnet, doors and boot, looking carefully at all the panel edges and establishing whether they have begun to corrode. The bonnet and bootlid are made of aluminium, but the rest of the panels are steel over a stretched 246GT chassis (also prone to corrosion), so check that thoroughly too. Rear wheelarches rot, along with most of the lower panels such as the sills, valances and quarter panels. Likewise the lower edges of the doors, especially if the drain holes have become clogged, meaning they rot from the inside out. 

ENGINE

308 engines are known to be strong and usually last well. The compact and powerful motor can sit at the redline all day long and love it. As long as there’s plenty of quality oil in it, it won’t let you down. The two-valve engines had sodium-filled exhaust valves to dissipate heat. As they get old the valves can become brittle. Some owners have had issues with these valves breaking, leading to the need for an engine re-build in the worst cases.

ELECTRICS

Radiators can become silted up if the system isn’t flushed often enough, made worse when the fans do not come on because of electrical issues, so check both. Another very common problem is that the cooling system has not been bled properly and this almost always results in a car that runs too hot or overheats completely. Because the engine is in the back and the radiator in the front, the system has to be bled at both ends.

Carburettor-fed cars are known for their relatively weak spark due to the points-based ignition system, meaning plug fouling is common. Many owners run a hotter plug than the owner’s manual recommends – NGK BP5ES is the most popular – to cut down on this. Other use a hotter coil, though this can be hard on the points. Fitting electronic ignition is the best way to address the issue – no fouling, better combustion, a more solid idle and lower emissions. 

The electric windows on these cars are terrible, thanks to a combination of a lousy design involving cables and pulleys, a weak motor and wear and tear. Most operate extremely slowly. Many people attempt to fix it by lubing the window tracks or even replacing the motors, but neither usually works. The problem is grease in the gearbox that connects the electric motor to the cable system. Over time it hardens and the resistance makes it almost impossible for the motor to turn the mechanism. The solution is to take it all apart, clean out the old hardened grease with a solvent, and replace it with fresh lithium grease. A time consuming job, but it works wonders. 

RUNNING GEAR

The 308’s transmission is notoriously notchy and can be especially reluctant to go into second gear when cold. The gated shifter can be tricky to get used to, but it’s pleasingly positive once warmed though. Clutches don’t last very long – perhaps 20,000 miles.

Suspension bushings are a common wear item on 308s. After 30 years, the original rubber bushings will be either cracked and shredded, or horribly perished. Fortunately polyurethane versions are now available, which are much better than the originals. 

The electrical systems are notoriously weak, but this seems to be mostly due to the badly designed fusebox, which can be replaced or upgraded to an improved aftermarket version.

OUR VERDICT

Most classic car enthusiasts have fantasised about owning a Ferrari at some point in their life. The 308 GT4 offers a lusty V8 engine, housed in an exotic mid-mounted fashion, yet it’s a machine that’s frequently scoffed at. As a result, you can pick one up for less than £15,000 – and there’s even space in the back to bring the kids along for the ride. Well, as long as they’re very small.

The 308 GT4 was both the debut mid-engined V8 from Ferrari and a slap in the face for Pininfarina, which previously assumed it had the Maranello design gig sewn up. The Bertone-styled 308 was badged as a Dino for the first three years of its life and the 2+2 layout and wedge profile were controversial to say the least. Trim is typically Seventies, including Fiat X1/9 door handles, but the dashboard, with its toggles and sliders, is like a Blaxploitation movie mixing desk. The 308 GT4 is sneered at by Ferrari snobs, but pay them no heed: it’s actually a pretty cool car. 

There are two reasons why the GT4 has always been seen as a lesser Ferrari: those opinion-polarising Bertone lines; and the fact that it’s a four-seater. ‘Proper’ Ferraris should not have space for four and must be designed by Pininfarina – or that’s what the infamous ‘they’ would have you believe. But don’t believe the hype – this car looks great, handles brilliantly and is as fast as you are ever going to need. Yet a decent one will cost you no more than a two-year-old repmobile, which will continue to shed value faster than yesterday’s newspapers. It is imperative to get an expert to look over a prospective purchase to ensure it’s as good as it seems. If it is, snap it up and enjoy before prices start to follow the 308 and 328 GTB/GTS.

FERRARI 550 MARANELLO REVIEW

Fancy a V12 Ferrari for BMW money? We show you how to avoid the pitfalls of buying a Ferrari 550 Maranello...

The 550 is a surprisingly compact and lithe machine, but even taller drivers should be able to fit behind the leather-stitched steering wheel with ease. The seats are firm and heavily bolstered, but the leather will have mellowed nicely by now and early cars are as comfortable as a warm bath. Unusually for a 1990s Italian car, the driving position is pretty much spot on.

There are no silly manettino traction control sub-menus on the steering wheel to navigate here. Simply twist the key, select first gear on the open-gate manual ’box, release the fly-off handbrake and ease the surprisingly manageable clutch to biting point.

Around town, a 550 is almost as docile as a Mondeo, but get onto an open road, put your foot down and brace for a relentless slug of lag-free power, accompanied by a chilling howl from the engine.

The 550 was always praised as much for its handling as its performance. It’s no Lotus Elan, but it’s as happy tackling nadgery B-roads as it is powering non-stop down to Monaco.

VITAL STATISTICS

1996 Ferrari 550 Maranello

Engine                                    5474cc/V12/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  485bhp@7000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 419lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed                                199mph

0-60mph                                  4.7sec

Consumption                            16mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Any car that doesn’t run smoothly, feels down on power or produces unpleasant noises just isn’t worth bothering with. One known foible is when a car demonstrates low fuel pressure and/or falls onto six cylinders. Such behaviour could indicate major mechanical woes, but the inertia switch that cuts power to the fuel pumps in the event of a front-end accident can fail without warning. The switch is easy and cheap to replace.

Rust is a key concern, especially on examples with suspiciously low asking prices. Chief among the rot-spots is along the sills, where flaking paint can quickly deteriorate into bubbling metalwork that can cost thousands to rectify. Any brown staining around the stainless kick plates should increase suspicion, too. While stone chips are not necessarily a problem (these cars received anti-corrosion protection at the factory), they should start alarm bells ringing at track-day use.  

ENGINE

Carburettor engines were fitted with Solex units when new, but these were notorious for starting problems and many owners have replaced them with Webers. So a non-standard carburettor isn’t necessarily a warning to look for other modifications! Poor starting may also be cured relatively easily by a swap from the original specification. 

Bosch mechanical fuel injection was a feature of the six-cylinder 220SE and 300SE/SEL models. It’s pretty reliable but is not really a DIY job when it goes wrong. Getting it fixed can often prove very expensive. Some recommend retarding the ignition timing on injected engines as a safety measure now that there’s no more high-octane leaded petrol.

Bosch mechanical fuel injection was a feature of the six-cylinder 220SE and 300SE/SEL models. It’s pretty reliable but is not really a DIY job when it goes wrong. Getting it fixed can often prove very expensive. Some recommend retarding the ignition timing on injected engines as a safety measure now that there’s no more high-octane leaded petrol.

If the handling is anything other than engaging, it could be as a result of failing damper actuators – look out for a warning light illuminated on the dashboard. Having said that, there’s a known problem that extreme cold can fool the engine management system into thinking there’s a fault, so make sure you assess a given car in a warm garage. 

RUNNING GEAR

Beware of cars sporting performance-enhancing engine management CPUs, lowered suspension, aftermarket wheels and similar items. Increasing a 550’s power without upgrading the suspension, brakes, etc, will increase the stresses on the car, while fitting bigger wheels and/or lower profile tyres will have a detrimental effect on the handling and ride. Performance exhausts are commonplace, but you should only consider cars that have been fitted with known brands such as TubiStyle or Larini.

The notorious F1 ‘flappy paddle’ gearbox was only introduced on the 575, so all 550s will sport a six-speed manual ’box. First gear is notoriously tricky to engage until the oil has warmed through, but it should be fine thereafter. Beware any car that is reluctant to engage first, third or fifth gear, whose shifter rests in neutral anywhere other than the dead centre of the gate or which jumps out of gear unexpectedly.

BRAKES

Examine the wheels for flaking powder coating and impact damage. The wheels are porous, so failure to repair damage will result in deterioration that eventually causes the wheel balancing weights to come away. Obviously, this has a detrimental effect on handling and steering.

OUR VERDICT

The 550 is quite simply outstanding value for money at just £35,000 – that’s how little it currently costs for a slice of Italian V12 exotica. Admittedly the car in question (for sale on the internet) was a Cat D victim, but had apparently received nothing more than a respray. Budget another £3000 and you’ll get a slightly leggy right-hand drive car or a low-mileage left-hooker, while £40,000 willl bag you an average-miler that anyone would be proud to put on show.

Criticised at its 1996 launch for being less than pretty (although it was an oil painting compared to the preceding Testarossa-based F512M), the 550 has matured over the years into a handsome GT that, while not quite in the 365 GTB/4 Daytona’s league, harks back to its design, especially from the rear.

Then, of course, there’s the engine – 5.5-litres of glorious V12 that punches out nearly 490bhp, 
can sprint from 0-60mph in a smidgeon over 4.5 seconds and will top nearly 200mph. You can actually fit luggage into the boot too. What’s not to like?

With the possible exception of very early Aston Martin DB7s, the Ferrari 550 represents one of the best-value entries into thoroughbred supercar ownership and values are unlikely to drop any further. Buying the right car is refreshingly easy  – the 550 is unusual in that it suits practically all available exterior/interior colour combinations, and there’s only one engine/gearbox option.

FERRARI MONDIAL REVIEW

The Ferrari Mondial was Ferrari's last production 2+2 mid-engined coupe, with the only 2 seater Ferrari's built since being the front engined V12 456 and the 612 Scaglietti.

The Mondial was a ground breaking Ferrari in not only being a 4 seater mid-engined car, with a chassis considered so good that it was used after production of the Mondial ended incars as recent as the Ferrari 360, but the Ferrari Mondial was also the first Ferrari to use power brakes, power steering and electronically controlled suspension.

Production of the Mondial ran from 1980, when it replaced the Ferrari 208/308 GT4 'Dino' to 1993. Designed by Pininfarina, it was Ferrari's entry model and was available in coupe and cabriolet formats. The Mondial started life as the Mondial 8.

The car used a V8 engine borrowed from the earlier Ferrari 'Dino' 308 GT4, with the Mondial's chassis also based on the 'Dino'. The engine was given an over-haul in '82 with the introduction of the Mondial Quatrovalvole, using an all-new 4-valve head.

'83 saw the introduction of the Ferrari Mondial Cabriolet. The soft-top body style lent the Mondial a lower, sleeker look, not too dissimilar to the Ferrari Testarossa.

In 1985, the Mondials engine capacity was increased and the new 3.2 Mondial was released, with output upto 270hp. The 3.2 Mondial also saw slight changes to the drivetrain and styling modifications to both the interior and exterior.

The Mondial's last incarnation as the '89 Ferrari Mondial T. The 'T' part of the name was a nod to the cars new engine/transmission lyout, which were laid out to form a 't', the same layout that was used on Ferrari's 1980's Formula 1 car. This layout also pointed the was future Ferrari V8's were to be built, the first of which following the Mondial was te Ferrari 348.

The Mondial is considered one of Ferrari's most reliable, and most inexpensive to maintain, models. With the practicality of the car further enhanced by it's 2+2 layout. It is for this reason that the Ferrari Mondial is a great entry car for those wishing to buy a classic Ferrari.

FERRARI 328GTB REVIEW

Ferrari's line of highly successful V8-engined road cars began with the 308GT4 of 1973. Originally badged as a Dino, the all-new 308GT4 2+2 took over from the preceding Dino V6.

The newcomers wedge-shaped styling - by Bertone rather than the customary Pininfarina - was not universally well received, but the performance of the amidships-mounted double-overhead-camshaft 3-litre V8 certainly was, and a new two-seater car using a dry-sumped version of the same power unit debuted at the Paris Salon in 1975.

Built on a shorter wheelbase, the stunningly beautiful 308GTB marked a welcome return to Pininfarina styling. Subsequently updated with four-valves per cylinder, the 308 was superseded by the mechanically similar but larger engined Ferrari 328GTB in 1985. By increasing both bore and stroke, the quattrovalvole engines capacity was raised to 3,186cc which, together with a higher compression ratio, revised pistons and improved Marelli engine management system, lifted maximum power to 270bhp at 7,000rpm.

Top speed was raised to within a whisker of 160mph with the sprint to 60mph covered in 5.5 seconds. On the outside, the addition of Testarossa-style moulded bumpers, a deeper rear valance and an unobtrusive roof spoiler could not disguise its underlying beauty.

FERRARI 365GTB4 DAYTONA REVIEW

Worthy successor to the 275GTB/4, the Ferrari 365GTB/4 Daytona debuted at the Paris Salon as early as 1968, with production commencing in the second half of 1969.

Aggressively styled by Pininfarina's Leonardo Fioravanti, Ferrari's new supercar boldly re-stated the traditional sports car dimensions of a long bonnet, small cabin and short tail look in a way which suggested muscular horsepower a la Cobra whilst retaining all the elegance associated with the Italian coachbuilder's work for Maranello. It was to be the supreme incarnation of the front-engined rear wheel drive car.

In response to Lamborghini, Ferrari's road V12 had gained four overhead camshafts during production of the 275GTB to become the 275GTB/4, the new Daytona displacing 4,390cc. With a power output of 352bhp at 7,500rpm, the result was a top speed in excess of 170mph and a maximum torque of 318lbs/ft available at 5,500rpm.

This made the car the world's fastest production car well into the 1970s - even the Boxer which replaced it could not muster the same performance. This level of perfomance soon silenced the critics of its front engine layout at a time when most rivals were exploring mid-engine options, the Muira and GT40 to name two. The Daytona was a real driver's car with excitement as a constant companion and few people can have mastered this true stallion without rolling their sleeves up.

Dry sump lubrication permitted the engine to be installed low in the chassis, while a 5-speed transaxle transmission enabled 50/50 front to rear weight distribution to be achieved. The chassis embodied long standing Ferrari practice, being composed of oval-section tubing the all-independent wishbone and coil suspension was a more recent development, having originated in the preceding 275GTB.

Named in honour of Ferrari's victory in the classic American 24-hour event in 1967 at Daytona, Florida, the first two places were taken by the legendary 330 P4, with a 412P in third place. The Daytona's competition potential was soon being exploited by privateer racers, and the model proved to be a formidable opponent in international endurance events.

FERRARI 250GT LUSSO REVIEW

Of all Ferrari's postwar body styles, Pininfarina's enduring Scaglietti-built design for the 250GT Berlinetta Lusso is surely one of the most pure and elegant.

The prototype Lusso was shown at the October 1962 Paris Salon where it received a rapturous reception. Its chassis was derived from that of the competition GTO but shared the short 94.5 inch / 2400mm wheelbase of the preceding Berlinetta and Spider models. The front suspension was by forged steel wishbones, coil springs and Koni telescopic dampers, the rear axle located with twin radius arms and semi-elliptical leaf springs on each side. A Watts linkage pivoted on the rear of the differential housing and by means of two arms prevented the axle from moving sideways. The rear dampers were encompassed by light springs which also assisted the system. Servo assisted disc brakes and Borrani wire wheels completed the running gear. The 3-litre V12 engine specification included a single overhead camshaft for each cylinder bank and delivered over 240bhp at a silken 7,500 rpm, endowing this peerless beauty with superb performance to match its outstandng road-holding. As the 'Lusso' designation implies, it was a SWB developed specifically for road use with a high level of trim and appointment. For many people, the Lusso is the ultimate road Ferrari since it has all the dynamics of the 250GT SWB, but with a Pininfarina body which some would argue is the maestro's finest work. Apart from the flow of the lines, ending in a slight lip and flat tail panel, the Kamm tail - after the aerodynamic theories of the German scientist, Dr Wunibald Kamm - recalls the Ferrari 250 GTO. The thin pillars allowed the expanse of glass to be an essential part of the overall look. Not only is the shape breathtaking, even by Pininfarina standards, but the detailing is arguably the finest ever created by the studio.

FERRARI 275GTB REVIEW

The 3.3-litre Ferrari 275GTB and the open iant, the 275GTS, were launched simultaneously at the Paris Salon of October 1964, sharing a common chassis and engine design. And, boy, are they rare. 

The GTB was intended to be a more sporting car than its predecessor, the lovely 3-litre 250 Lusso, and an increase in engine bore to 77mm now displaced 3,285.7cc. In initial form with three Weber carburettors, this latest 2-cam Ferrari V12 produced 280bhp at 7,600rpm.

This particular car features the preferred 6-carburettor option, which offered an additional 20-plus horsepower to create a genuine 300bhp road car of explosive performance. The greatest chassis innovation embodied within the new type was its independent rear suspension, replacing the live axle of preceeding Ferrari designs and achieved with double pressed steel wishbones, concentric coils springs and adjustable shock absorbers.

An anti-roll bar was actuated from the lower wishbones and from either side of the limited slip differential, universally jointed sliding spline shafts driving the rear wheels.

A 5-speed transaxle transmission was also adopted, offering much improved weight distribution with improved handling and cornering to match. The clutch remained in-unit with the engine, and the slender propellor shaft was supported amidships by a roller steady bearing as initially specified.

The body was another highly successful co-production by stylist Pininfarina and manufacturer Carrozzeria Scaglietti, this 'shortnose' car typifying the highly acclaimed Ferrari 275GTB in its original form. In the interests of a smooth body line, even the petrol filler was housed inside the boot. Many regard these quite rare GTBs as the finest road-going Gran Turismo cars ever produced by Ferrari.

FERRARI 550 BARCHETTA REVIEW

Ferrari introduced a convertible version of the 550 Maranello at the Paris Motor Show in 2000. Built and designed by Pininfarina and commissioned to be built by Maranello as a limited production model by Ferrari to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Pininfarina. A total 448 of the 550 Barchettas were produced. Each car was individually numbered and custom built which features a plaque with the car's serial number and Sergio Pininfarina's signature.

The Barchetta Pininfarina is a true roadster - the factory provided a soft top, but it was intended only for temporary use as it was cautioned against using the top above 65mph (110 km/h). 

 

VITAL STATISTICS 

Engine 5474cc V12, dohc per bank, Bosch Motronic M5.2 fuel injection

Power 485bhp@7000rpm

Torque 419lb ft@5000rpm

Top speed 199mph

0-60mph 4.2sec

Economy 14mpg        

Gearbox 6-speed manual, transaxle, rear-wheel drive

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

HISTORY & SERVICING

Service history is the single most important factor in assessing a 550 because it directly affects how much you'll need to spend in the near future.

It also reveals a good deal about the previous owner(s) and has a proportionately large influence on the car's value. Check the service book is the original and not a duplicate. It should be properly filled in and stamped, ideally with supporting invoices. A consistent history is the most important thing, even for cars doing few miles.

Th first page of the service book should show the supplying dealer's stam and the correct chassis number - be thorough. The interval for a cambelt change (not a big job by Ferrari standards at £500-£700 not including other servicing) is only three years, though longer is excusable on low-milers.

Potential buyers often overlook one thing when examining a car and its history file - who are you buying it from? Ask whether the dealer owns the car or is selling it on a commission basis, or whether they're brokering the sale for a customer. If it's the last, it has implication sof the amount of preparation you can expect, as well as your chance of redress. 

ENGINE BAY

Cam cover gaskets can leak oil and the coolant hoses in the middle of the vee should be replaced with silicone items, as they perish because of heat and then split. A kit replacing all seven hoses in the cooling system costs £620; swapping only the three that are most prone to failure is cheaper, but accessing them needs several hours of labour.

If you can hear of feel a vibration at idle that goes away when the engine is revved, the engine mounts may have sagged and let the engine rest on the crossmember. Budget £900 to have the mounts replaced; those from the later 575 are sturdier.

Replacing the HT leads can be even more expensive, if they're perished a replacement set costs £960.

Other visual checks include drips from radiators, which are prone to leaks. They're also insanely expensive to replace - so it's better to get them repaired. These are low-slung cars, so you also should check for damaged undertrays.  

SUSPENSION, BRAKES AND STEERING

The power steering reservoir can drip on to the nearside top and bottom inner wishbone bushes, causing them to perish. Replacement is around £600, mostly in labour costs.

If it looks low at the front, the springs have probably collapsed. They're £100 each plus an hour's fitting.

More expensive are the adjustable dampers, which have a solenoid actuator on the top to stiffen them when the Sport mode button on the dash is engaged. It tends to get left in one mode. When it is eventually used it can blow the fuse or the solenoid itself. The dampers are the same as those on contemporary Chevrolet Corvettes, but they're still £830 each (£560 for just an actuator).

If the fly-off handbrake seems weak or the lever stays up when pulled, without engaging the ratchet, you may need a new handbrake compensator (which sould be lubricated at service time but often isn't) and lever, costing a nasty £1300 to replace. In comparison, discs and pads aren't too costly, averaging £200 per corner including labour.

The OE-spec Pirelli P Zero tyres last as little as 5000 miles. To fit the standard 18in wheels they are 255/40 ZR 18 on the front (about £180 each) and 295/35 ZR 18 on the rear (about £300 each). Other makes with a harder compund last longer but grip less well. Check tread-depth indicators on all four wheels and examine the full width of the tread - uneven wear is common, especially on the front. 

INTERIOR

Many 550s suffer from leather shrinking back from the front edge of the dash. It also tends to let go from the airbag and instrument binnacle.

If the latter is peeling expect to spend £600-£700 on a fix and no more than £300 for the airbag. However, if the whole dashboard needs doing the bill can be a labour-intensive £4k-£5k.

Check the door and window seals thoroughly. Door seals cost £400 per side and the seals around the rear side windows crack - but a replacement is only available with a window, costing even more than the door seals. Also, the switchgear and interior handles have a rubber coating that goes sticky. The only solution is to strip each item and paint it black, which is very time-consuming.

If you view the car on a rainy day, check the bottom of each door card. If it's damp the seal inside it has failed and rainwater will be getting into the footwells. It's not a serious problem but is another reason to lower your offer.

GEARBOX

Some 550s made before 1998 sufffered tricky engagement of first, third or fifth, or sometimes all three. Most problems will have shown themselves by now, but there are checks you can make. With the engine running and the car stationary you can check the condition of the baulk rings by trying to push the gearlever gently towards each gear without pressing the clutch. It should baulk; if it doesn't and allows a crunch even with gentle pressure, something's wrong. Also check selection on the move in normal driving, when there should be no baulking at all once it's warm.

Poor selection can sometimes just be down to gear linkage adjustment, but it's a big risk to take because a gearbox rebuild will set you back £2k-£4k, while the cost of a new box will exceed £10k. Clutches are weighty, but beware if it seems excessively heavy because they get heavier as the release bearing starts to seize;and a new clutch, cover and bearing costs about £2500, including labour.

BODYWORK

Accident damage is the only major concern for a 550's structural condition. Sometimes the only way of discovering this is through an expert inspection, but this is the wisest way to proceed for any buyer. Get it done by someone other than a general inspection company. You need someone with marque and model experience who can offer not only a mechanical inspection but a detailed cosmetic assessment too.

OUR VERDICT

The extremely rare and expensive 550 Barchetta Pininfarina's current £150k-£300k market value renders it more of a novelty car for investors than a usable soft-top alternative to the Maranello.

Unsurprisingly, performance is astonishing with the Barchetta hitting 60mph from rest in only 4.2 seconds. The Barchetta is without doubt a highly collectable contemporary model in today's market place.

FERRARI 400 REVIEW

Buy a Ferrari for Mondeo money! It’s a line that’s been used many times over the years, but we’re not using it here, because you know as well as we do that such attention-grabbing headlines tell only a part of the picture. Sadly, there’s no such thing as a cheap Ferrari.

For years the Ferrari 400 and its 365/412 siblings have been the runts of the Ferrari litter. Unloved, neglected and worth little. It’s hard to understand why when you consider what they have to offer; understated, stylish lines, a luxurious interior and superb engineering along with a delicious driving experience and fabulous performance. Maybe it’s because the engine is up front and there are four seats instead of two. Whatever it is, this has long been one of the most affordable Ferraris ever made.

Things kicked off with the arrival of the 340bhp 365GT 2+2 in 1972, packing a 4.4-litre V12. There was a manual gearbox only, but when the 400GT debuted in 1976 it brought with it an auto option along with a bigger (4.8-litre) engine. There were still six carburettors but there were a few styling changes too, including larger tail lights (now four instead of six), a front spoiler and bolt-on alloy wheels in place of the previous knock-on items. The auto would be chosen by 70 per cent of buyers.

In 1979 the Weber carbs were replaced by Bosch fuel injection to produce the 400i; Ferrari’s first fuel-injected road car. Fuel economy and driveability were improved, but power dropped to 315bhp. The V12 was boosted to 340bhp once more in 1985 though, with the fitment of a 4943cc V12 in the 412i. With body-coloured bumpers and clear indicators (previously orange), this was also the first Italian car to feature anti-lock brakes. Now, as with its predecessors it’s a relative bargain – but for how much longer? 

VITAL STATISTICS

400 GT auto

Engine                                      4823cc/12-cyl/4OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                     340@6800

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    312@4600

Top speed                                149mph

0-60mph                                   8.0sec

Consumption                            14mpg

Gearbox                                   3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. Expect rust; even cherished cars often have some. It’s especially likely in the sills, floorpans and the boot floor along with the panels below the window line, the windscreen surround, door bottoms and boot lid. New panels aren’t available so everything has to be made specially, although some used parts are available. But nothing is cheap; a used boot lid will set you back £1000 for example.

2. The V12 is strong, but you still need to make the usual checks for blown head gaskets, oil or coolant leaks plus top and bottom end wear. Most likely is a blowing exhaust. If you’re lucky it’ll just be the pipes; a new system costs around £2500 or a bit more for a stainless steel set-up. But if the manifolds have cracked (and they docrack), the bill will more than double, not least because of the labour involved.

3. Setting up six carburettors is a specialist job, but someone who knows what they’re doing won’t be fazed it. Everything should stay in tune too, but don’t be frightened by the Bosch fuel injection, as it’s usually reliable. Listen for rattles from a stretched timing chain, which can lead to the chain slipping – which destroys the V12 when valves and pistons collide. The engine has an array of auxiliary belts which should be replaced every three years or 30,000 miles. It’s a tricky job that typically costs £450 to have sorted by a specialist.

4. Both the manual and automatic gearboxes are durable, if maintained. Until the gearbox has warmed up, second gear shouldn’t be used or the synchromesh will be damaged. There’s plenty of torque to go from first to third, but some owners don’t, so feel for baulking as you change up or down into second.

5. A worn clutch costs around £1000 to replace, so haggle accordingly if necessary. The automatic transmission lasts well if its fluid is changed regularly. Some adjustments may be all that’s needed to eliminate jerky changes; a complete overhaul shouldn’t cost more than £1500, including the labour to remove and refit the gearbox.

6. Expect tired dampers, springs and bushes. All versions feature self-levelling suspension at the rear which on the 412i is hydraulically operated via a pump. Check that the ious pipes for this are intact, because they can corrode – they may have been replaced already.

7. Brake callipers can seize up on cars that are used sparingly, although sometimes it’s just a matter of freeing them off and then using the car. However, if things are really bad you might have to get the callipers rebuilt; bank on paying around £450 to get each of the fronts done while the rears are pitched at £300 or so apiece. The 365 and 400 featured imperial wheels with Michelin XWX tyres while the 400i and 412 got metric rims with Michelin TRX rubber. The latter are expensive while sometimes the earlier cars have modern rubber fitted, which spoils the car’s appearance. An owner who has kept their earlier car on the correct tyres has probably taken the time to keep their car just so in other ways.

8. Italian electrics are notorious for being temperamental, so don’t expect everything to work as it should. While most of the ious motors and solenoids generally last pretty well, the cabling, connectors and relays can play up. So too can the fusebox, which is no longer available, which is why converting to a proprietary part is usually the best solution. Later cars got more gadgets, all of which need to be checked – so don’t overlook items such as electric seats, air conditioning and all instrumentation.
 

VERDICT

The 400 is still relatively affordable to buy, but running costs can be ruinous, although values are on the rise. Buy a car that’s had money lavished on it, but bear in mind that recent big bills don’t mean further major expense isn’t looming. But what a way to blow your savings!

Ferrari F355 REVIEW

The Ferrari F355 model name was derived from the 3496cc V8 with 5 valves per cylinder, an additional 91cc and 60bhp over the previous model.

With Nicasil coated steel liners, titanium alloy conrods were used, connected to forged alloy pistons. New cylinder heads used three inlet and two exhaust valves per cylinder, operated via hydraulic tappets from four overhead camshafts the valve springs rated to 10,000 rpm! The all-round double wishbone suspension with Bilstein shock absorbers was now continually adjustable via electronic sensors, according to the speed and attitude of the car, taking the Ferrari 355 into an altogether higher league of handling. A special undertray was now fitted, introducing a ground effect which caused negative lift and so increased road adhesion. Power steering was standard and the ABS braking system could be switched on or off. With six-speeds, a stronger clutch and an incredible 380bhp at 8,250 rpm, 60mph (96kph) appeared in just 4.6 seconds, 100mph (161kph) in a staggering 10.6 seconds, a top speed of 185mph (298kph) achievable. Three body styles were offered, the Berlinetta coupe, GTS targa top, and a Spider.

FERRARI 456 REVIEW

We consider the pros and cons of purchasing an example of the most beautiful Ferrari V12 GT since the Daytona...

Even the most disinterested of onlookers would admit the Ferrari 456 GT is heart-stoppingly beautiful. The 550/575 (and certainly the 612 Scaglietti) that carried Ferrari’s two-plus-two V12 GT mantle in later years never managed the same level of elegance as the 456, and there’s an argument that even the enhanced 456 M of 1998 isn’t quite as pretty.

Launched in 1992 as a successor to the relatively unloved 412, the 456 GT was an instant success although, as with any older car, there are pros and cons when choosing one as a classic prospect.

VITAL STATISTICS

FERRARI 456 GT

Engine                                    5474cc/V12/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  436bhp@6250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 406lb ft@4500rpm

Top speed                                186mph

0-60mph                                   5.1sec

Consumption                            12.8mpg

Gearbox                                    6-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As is befitting of a car that cost more than £170,000 when new, the 456’s construction is suitably space-age. A tubular steel spaceframe is clad in aluminium body panels and a composite bonnet. While body rot is rare, it’s wrong to think that aluminium cannot corrode. In areas where the body panels meet the spaceframe, a special sort of filler called ‘feran’ allows the two metals to be welded together. If this filler is damaged and not re-applied properly, the results can be unsightly and expensive to repair. 

Poorly repaired accident damage is the main thing to look for when assessing a prospective 456. Evidence of unequal shut lines, iffy paint and overspray in the engine compartment should start alarm bells ringing. Also the door check straps – these were never strong enough to handle the heavy doors, and can allow the door to open wide enough to actually dent the surrounding bodywork.

ENGINE

Ferrari V12s weren’t always known for their ruggedness, but the 5474cc powerhouse in the 456 – in essence a de-tuned version of the engine that would power the 550 Maranello – has proved itself to be a largely reliable and unstressed unit.

Most enthusiasts will by now have seen the infamous YouTube footage of just how vicious a Ferrari factory test-driver had to be to cause a 456 engine to detonate, so walk away from any car that is anything other than silky smooth.

That said, no engine is without vice, and under-bonnet checks of any 456 should start with the cam cover, which has been known to weep. Occasionally, a pulley connected to the crankshaft can become detached – if left unchecked, it can cause the belts that operate the fanbelt and alternator (among other things) to fail, with likely repairs at more than £2000.

Early models have been known to run excessive oil pressure which can eventually destroy the oil filter, while low compression often points to poor ring seating or leaky valve seats, especially on low-mileage models. Persistently low oil temperatures, however, could be nothing more than a faulty thermostat.

RUNNING GEAR

Both manual and automatic transmissions were offered on the 456 GT, and a known weakness on the former is the premature failure of the circlip on reverse gear. If a car won’t
stay in reverse gear, then you’re potentially looking
at a bill of £2000 or more to get the transaxle repaired. Ignore the ill-sounding noises issuing from the transaxle for long enough and you can more
than double that repair bill figure.

Other problems include leaking self-levelling rear shock absorbers, while making sure the power-assisted steering pump is in good health is definitely a prudent measure – as well as controlling the steering, it also pressurises the self-levelling rear suspension.

Brake hoses are also known to deteriorate, while a holed radiator will create another, rather bigger hole in your wallet – around £3000 plus fitting.

INTERIOR

Don’t worry if your 456 GT squeaks incessantly when on the move – all those converging leather surfaces are bound to create a creak or two. The 456’s hi-tech cabin electrics can cause all sorts of problems, however, from electric seats that won’t adjust to failed window regulators that render the windows inoperable. This latter problem is apparently caused by owners closing the doors by pushing on the window glass rather than the door itself.

Window seals are another known weak point, while the windows themselves are known to require adjustment to create a fully water- and air-tight seal.

More seriously, air conditioning systems can be foxed by something as simple as dirt in the system, but the biggest issue surrounding the 456’s interior is deteriorating trim – the rubber, in particular, seems to be of a rather poor grade that degrades very quickly.

OUR VERDICT

1950s and 1960s exotica aside, the 456 GT is the most handsome GT Ferrari ever made. Mechanical and trim issues should have been sorted by previous owners by now, so as long as you can afford the annual bills (from £450-£800 for a minor 6000-mile service, to £1200 for a major service) and expensive parts, there isn’t a prettier or more potent car for the money.

Ferrari 456