BENTLEY T1 REVIEW

Drivers will love the Bentley T1 for its refined, laid back nature and raw power, while passengers will enjoy a standard of ride quality that few cars of the era (or any other era, for that matter) can match.

Once inside vast amounts of interior space, top quality hide and heavily engineered suspension more than make up for that, and the Bentley is one of the most comfortable cars on the road even today, delivering a soft, heavy-on-the-tyres, even roly-poly type ride.

The 6750cc V8 delivers its power in a gentle manner, but there’s plenty in reserve when you need it. The full 340lb ft of torque kicks in at just 1500rpm, so gaining speed is never an issue. 

They may have more sporting pedigree than Rollers, but Bentleys like this aren’t supposed to endure hard cornering. A T1 will grip reasonably well, but the feather-light steering and equally delicate throttle and brakes don’t really lend themselves to hooligan behaviour. Slot the skinny gear selector into Drive, head for the nearest country clubhouse and enjoy the T1 as it was designed to be enjoyed. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Bentley T1

Engine                                    6750cc/V8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  226bhp@4300rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 340lb ft@ 1500rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  10.9sec

Consumption                            14mpg 

Gearbox                                    3-spd automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Bear colour in mind when choosing a car. Colours that were popular when the car was new won’t necessarily be in vogue today and can have an impact on desirability and value. Many T1s were finished in Honey Gold and Willow Gold, but they’re not nearly as in demand as neutral blues and greens. 

It’s no surprise that corrosion can be the Bentley’s biggest problem. The most common rot spots include the wing bottoms, wheelarches, sills and bumpers, none of which are cheap to put right. 

ENGINE

Low mileage cars aren’t always a good bet. If a car has next to no miles on the clock it will have been left standing for a long time. It’s better to buy one with a taller odometer reading that has been used and serviced regularly. It’s also worth finding a car that has had money spent on it – so you don’t have to. 

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

The air conditioning system is as complicated as the anchors. It’s over-engineered as there are nine actuators to operate the upper and lower systems, so there’s an awful lot to go wrong. If it needs any work then a good specialist is unlikely to replace the whole system, because there’s simply so 

much of it and it makes more sense to change the necessary parts. You’ll have to budget around £1000 for a new compressor and hoses. 

The T1 is fitted with far more luxuries than most cars of its era, many of which are electrical (the windows, mirrors, air conditioning etc). Spend a bit of time inside the car and try out everything to see whether or not it works. You can bank on a big repair bill if anything is awry. 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes are prone to leaking, especially if the car has been standing outside for a long period. If you can, find out where the car is usually parked and inspect the ground for signs of leaks from the transmission. Early cars have a four-speed box. 

BRAKES

The complex braking system is a hydraulic set-up using Citroën accumulator spheres. If the engine cuts out then the accumulators can also fail, so you could end up with no brakes. Repairs are lengthy and expensive, as the rear subframe may need to be removed. To avoid buying a dud, look for a car with as much documentation as possible and history of maintenance on the brakes. 

INTERIOR

When inspecting the interior, make a point of lifting up the carpets. They’re so thick and plush that punters often don’t think to look beneath them, but they can be hiding serious water ingress and corrosion, so it’s always worth checking. Obvious as it might seem, a rotted carpet means that there are serious problems lurking beneath. 

Attention to detail makes all the difference with a Bentley or 

Rolls-Royce of this vintage. Tidy boots and gloveboxes, a watertight history, evidence of having been serviced by specialists and use of the correct lubricants can make a huge difference and are all signs that a previous owner has tretated the car with the necessary care and attention. A professional inspection by a specialist before you buy is also very much worthwhile.

OUR VERDICT

Few cars rival the T1 for luxury at this price other than its Rolls-Royce stablemates. But don’t be tempted by cars with rock-bottom price tags. The allure of a cheap Bentley may be strong, but it isn’t worth it unless you have double the budget for parts and you’re a dab hand with electrics, hydraulics and bodywork. 

It’s been said before, but there really is no substitute when it comes to shopping around and saving up to pay more for a good car. Restored cars with a paper trail and evidence of due care and attention are worth the extra money, as it’s so easy to plough tens of thousands of pounds into a rough one. Paying a specialist a nominal fee for an inspection and getting involved with the club scene before you buy will pay dividends, too. Do it by the book and you’ll bag one of the best British prestige cars money can buy. 

Raucous performance cars not your thing? Prefer to arrive at your destination in understated style, but with power to spare when it’s needed. You could buy a modern Bentley/Volkswagen for a six-figure sum – or you could set aside £10,000 (and maybe a little more) for a very tidy T1. 

Essentially a re-badged Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow, the T1 differs from the Roller only in its slightly different grille and a few Bentley emblems. Inside, it’s pure prestige, with the finest of leather seats, wonderfully thick carpets and more standard equipment than just about anything of a similar era. The simple styling renders this Bentley rather subtle in appearance, but its sheer size gives it an almost regal road presence. 

T1s and Silver Shadows enjoyed a lengthy production run, so there are plenty of them around. But the earliest models are now 45 years old, so time and lack of use has taken its toll on many. Budget for a cared-for car, though, and you’ll enjoy prestige classic motoring at its finest – for a fraction of what you’d pay for a modern Bentley.

TRIUMPH VITESSE REVIEW

Upmarket cars sporting a quartet of frowning ‘Chinese Eye’ quad headlights were all the rage in the 1960s. Jensen C-V8, Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud II, Bentley S3, Chrysler 300G/H – they were all at it. But surely the pleasingly aggressive-looking Triumph Vitesse is the most famous of them all. It’s remarkable to think today, then, how close the car came to never getting beyond the design stage.

Standard-Triumph may have enjoyed some glory years during the 1950s with the Triumph TR series, but as the 1960s dawned, it was clear that the company wasn’t in the greatest of financial health. In the event, it was a last-minute rescue package from Leyland Motors in 1961 that finally saved the company.

Project ‘Zobo’ – aka the Herald – went into production two years before Leyland entered the picture, but Standard-Triumph’s increasingly bleak-looking balance books suggested it wouldn’t survive for long. Plans had been in place to revive a curious and oft-maligned 1930s trend for small six-cylinder cars ever since the Herald’s inception, however, and with Leyland’s backing, the car entered development.

Ironically, the initial development hack – nicknamed the Kenilworth Dragster – packed a 2.0-litre Vanguard engine and was used by Technical Chief, Harry Webster, as his own car for several months. For production cars, however, an enlarged version of the Herald’s SC (‘Small Car’) ‘four’ was deemed more appropriate at 1600cc, with twin Solex carburetors upping power to 70bhp.

A Herald gearbox sporting tougher internals and closer ratios – but still no synchromesh on first gear – was deemed sufficient to handle the extra power, but, subtle changes to the suspension aside, the standard chassis was largely retained.

The car survived until 1966, at which point the Vitesse was upgraded with a 2.0-litre engine, stronger gearbox and better brakes, but it wasn’t until the 1968 advent of the Vitesse Mk2 that the swing-axle rear suspension was finally canned.

The factory sold 51,212 examples before it was phased out in 1971 in favour of the new Dolomite range.

VITAL STATISTICS

Triumph Vitesse 1.6

Engine 1596cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power 70bhp@5000rpm

Torque 110lb ft@2800rpm

Top speed 83mph

0-60mph 17.8sec

Economy 24.6mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual + opt O/D

ON THE ROAD

No doubt about it: the Triumph Vitesse looks meaner than the proverbial junkyard dog just parked up on your driveway. It’s a good job, then, that it has the mouth to match the trousers, although the six-pot lurking beneath this particular car’s trademark tilt-front bonnet is the 70bhp 1600, not the later 2.0-litre mill, which mustered 95bhp.

It’s an appealing little ‘six’ nonetheless – it’s good for over 80mph in top, and while a 0-60mph time of over 17.5 seconds doesn’t sound like much to write home about, it feels much brisker in practice, not least as it weighs barely 920kg.

As with many six-cylinder engines, though, the Vitesse relies more on low-down torque than peaky horsepower to haul itself along. It’s no sluggard, but it works best when viewed more as a grunty mini-GT than a screaming out-and-out sportscar. It’s a pity, then, this car wasn’t specified with optional Laycock overdrive (which worked on third and top gear) to quieten things down at higher speeds.

Handling is largely benign and predictable at workaday speeds if the driver is smooth and gets his or her braking over and done with before diving into a corner. Provoke the notorious swing-axle rear suspension anywhere near the limit – especially in the wet – however, and it will eventually bite.

An unfortunate quirk of the Vitesse 6’s suspension is that ham-fisted over-exuberance in the bends can tuck a rear wheel into extreme positive camber and throw the car into snap oversteer. The resultant slide is often difficult to catch. Indeed, in its February 1969 test of the 2.0-litre Vitesse, Motor magazine was heard to complain: "One can’t help feeling that the Vitesse might have established a greater niche for itself if it had started life with a live axle."

EXPERT VIEW

"The test-drive of a Vitesse 1600 is crucial," says Jigsaw Triumph Specialists’ Mark Field. "Piston slap, which can be easily mistaken for pinking when you back off the throttle while stationary, and/or smoke on the overrun can signal a £450 bill for a new set of pistons. They’re expensive, because they’re only manufactured by a company in Australia. Fail to sort them out, however, and the engine can be damaged beyond reconditioning limits.

"Three-synchro gearbox whine in first is to be expected, but if it occurs in any other gear, it’s a sure sign of collapsing layshaft bearings. Often the best solution is to swap in a four-synchro gearbox from a Mk1 2-litre.

"Adjustable shock absorbers are the best way to tame swing-axle wheel-tuck, although you can fit re-cambered rear springs. As for body rot, check the main chassis rails, preferably with the car up on a ramp – repairs here must be professionally seam-welded for an MoT pass. Also check the outriggers as the body-chassis mounts, which are hidden behind the sills and bottom of the B-posts."

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

There are plenty of corrosion spots to watch out for, with the rear wings, the spare wheel well in the boot, the door bottoms and the sills (particularly around the attaching screws) prone to the dreaded tin worm.

Check the condition of the one-piece bonnet for signs of overspray or deformation – as the unit is one of the more expensive components to replace, signs of poor repair work can help to indicate if the Vitesse you’re looking at has any front-end collisions hidden in its history.

Pay particular attention to the front and rear wheel-arches, which are double skinned and should be checked carefully around the edges, as these will help indicate the condition of the car’s inner panels.

It also pays to make sure you know exactly what sort of Vitesse you’re inspecting – plenty of the saloon models have been converted into al fresco models, but they’re not as valuable as the factory-built ragtop models. You’ll be able to spotgenuine item by the anti-burst latches on the door and pillars, and the strengthening beams around the B-pillar. The commissioning plate should also read ‘CV’ (for convertible) – a chopped saloon will still have its ‘DL’ code.

Similarly, the early Vitesse 6 models had mesh radiator grilles rather than the horizontal slats of the later two-litre models – if the two don’t match, make sure you ask the seller why.

Engine and Gearbox

There are two versions of Triumph’s in-line straight six to choose from – the 1596cc version fitted to the original Vitesse 6 model, and the later 1998cc unit introduced in 1966. It’s a sturdy unit which should be capable of at least 100,000 miles with regular servicing, and its shared heritage with other Triumphs - particularly the GT6 – means it’s well catered for by specialists.

Thrust washers wearing out or dropping out altogether are a known trouble spot. Get a friend to start the car up and depress the clutch pedal while you watch what’s going on beneath the bonnet – if the front crankshaft pulley moves forward, it’s going to need replacing.

It’s also worth checking that the Vitesse you’re looking at has the engine Canley intended – the engine number on the 1596cc engines starts with HB, while the two-litre versions began with TC. If it begins with an M or K it’s come from another Triumph model (or even the Standard Vanguard Six) – not necessarily a bad thing, but a haggling point if the car’s being sold on its originality.

Running Gear

The biggest influence on your Vitesse buying tendencies should be the condition of the chassis – if it needs major surgery the bodywork will have to be in sound condition before it comes off.

Look for signs of accident damage around the front – wrinkles in the rails near to where the wishbones can provide clues to the car’s history – while the worst corrosion spots are towards the rear. Water collects in the dipped areas around the differential, and it can be a tricky area to repair.

Gearboxes generally last well and the clutch should be light and smooth to operate, and check that the overdrive works correctly in both third and fourth.

Check for rattles or clinks coming from underneath the car at the point of setting off – a worn universal joint or a loose bolt where the driveshaft connects to the diff are the likely candidates. Trunnion bearings are also prone to wearing out, particularly on the two-litre models, and any particularly gruesome wear points it not being oiled regularly.

Interior & Electrics

There are no particular horrors to look out for – most of the interior trimmings can be sourced easily if you shop around, although the sun visors unique to the convertible models can be tricky to get hold of.

Check for signs of scuffs or tears around the seats or carpets, and budget accordingly for repairs. Damp in the carpets in either of the footwells can point to corrosion in the metalwork beneath or a roof leak in the convertible models, so use any damp spots as potential bargaining chips.

OUR VERDICT

The Vitesse is rarer and faster than the Herald it’s based on, and thanks to the moody look created by that restyled front end has a character all of its own.

It’s also easy well catered for by Triumph clubs and marque specialists, who will be all too happy to point you in the right direction when it comes to parts and expertise.

Pay over the odds for a rust-afflicted example or a saloon pretending to be a convertible and it’ll be a headache, but do your homework and the right Vitesse is a fun route into six-cylinder route into Triumph ownership.

Triumph Vitesse

TRIUMPH SPITFIRE 1500 REVIEW

The last of the classic open-top Triumphs was also one of the best.

A long-running and bitterly fought automotive battle was finally drawing to a close by the end of the 1970s. For years previously, anyone looking to buy a small British open-top two-seater sports car bought either an MG Midget or a Triumph Spitfire, and die-hard fans frowned upon anyone who defected from one marque camp to the other. How ironic, then, that the final incarnations of each car should share the same 1500 engine. 

The Spitfire arguably had the last laugh, though: where the Midget latterly sprouted federal-spec plastic bumpers and a raised ride height, the Spitfire 1500 retained most of the earlier mark IV’s svelte chrome bumper good looks and would go on to last a year longer.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1493cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  71bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 82lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                101mph

0-60mph                                  13.2sec

Consumption                            28mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual + opt OD

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The main thing to bear in mind with the Spitfire is that it retains a separate chassis, so the sills are actually a key aspect of car’s structural integrity. Rusty sills, then, are not just a nuisance – they can write them off altogether. Check that the areas where the sills meet the floor are rot-free, and if possible, lift the carpets to check the state of the floor itself. Uneven panel gaps around the doors are a further clue to dangerously frilly sills – they can be indicative of a dangerously flexing body.

Elsewhere, the one-piece bonnet obviously comprises the front wings and wheelarches, and while aftermarket examples (in either steel or GRP) are readily available, they’re certainly not cheap. Blocked drain holes can also spell the end for the doors if they haven’t been routinely cleared by previous owners.

ENGINE

The Triumph 1500 engine hasn’t received the best press over the years, mainly owning to repeated dark mutterings over fragile bottom ends (worn crankshaft and main bearings in the main), but it’s a torquey little motor that responds well to sympathetic modernisation.

Aside from all the usual checks (blue exhaust smoke, ominous rattles and clonks), try to run the car up to full operating temperature. A steadily rising temperature gauge can be symptomatic of a water pump that’s about to expire or a blocked or damaged radiator. It’s wise to replace or refurb either of these on an unrestored car, but resist the urge to fit an electric fan – expert opinion suggests that it’s better to fit a larger radiator instead.

Poor hot-starting can often be resolved by binning the points and condenser in favour of electronic ignition, too, while returning later cars’ Waxstat-type SU carbs to standard specification often improves starting and running. Make sure the carb heat-shield is in good order, too.

RUNNING GEAR

If the Spitfire has an Achilles Heel, it concerns the front suspension. Cursed with notoriously fiddly and unforgiving brass trunnions, failure to oil these on a regular basis (every 3000 miles) can have dire and potentially spectacular ultimate consequences – left unlubricated long enough, the suspension will quite literally fall apart.

The news is little better out back, where there are more trunnions to lubricate and wheel bearings that were designed to incorporate grease nipples, but apparently left the factory with them blanked over. If greasing is neglected as a result, the bearing cages will fail, with replacements costing a couple of hundred pounds a side.

  INTERIOR

If the Spitfire has an Achilles Heel, it concerns the front suspension. Cursed with notoriously fiddly and unforgiving brass trunnions, failure to oil these on a regular basis (every 3000 miles) can have dire and potentially spectacular ultimate consequences – left unlubricated long enough, the suspension will quite literally fall apart.

The news is little better out back, where there are more trunnions to lubricate and wheel bearings that were designed to incorporate grease nipples, but apparently left the factory with them blanked over. If greasing is neglected as a result, the bearing cages will fail, with replacements costing a couple of hundred pounds a side.

OUR VERDICT

It seems frankly unfathomable that Spitfires, for whatever reason, have never quite fired the imagination of people looking to invest in their first classics as much as other marques. These are handsome cars that are great fun to drive, straightforward to work on and blessed with excellent spares and specialist back-up. Factor in an active and friendly owner’s club, and the case for choosing one is clear-cut.

BENTLEY TURBO REVIEW

Bentley hit upon a heady mix of performance and opulence with their definitive luxury saloon. But today a Turbo R can make a very tasty classic bargain too...

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 by 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is perhaps the luxury bargain of the modern age. The best thing is that they make absolute sense as a driving machine. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser road users. If you’re in a post-1990 model with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

VITAL STATISTICS

1987 Bentley Turbo R

Engine                                    6750cc/8-cyl/OHV 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  330bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 480lb ft@2250rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                   7sec

Consumption                            14mpg

Gearbox                                    3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The first Rs are now a quarter of a century old. So despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to rot if the car hasn’t been looked after. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough in your examination. 

Under the car, the front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely for corrosion. You should also ensure that the extensive exterior chrome isn’t pitted, while those hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should be straight and free from scratches.

ENGINE

Carburettor-fed examples (pre-1987) are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, which is unheard of on fuel-injected models. Either should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided proper service intervals have been respected.

Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be caused by anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault (on post-1994 cars). Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Coolant leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should have you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign – a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results – so be on your guard.

RUNNING GEAR

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used throughout the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.

Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked-after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models, and leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses.

INTERIOR

It is unlikely you will find a car whose cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so walk away from cracked or peeling varnish. 

OUR VERDICT

The Turbo R is a complex machine, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price but, that said, you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things start to go wrong. Be careful, though, as once you’ve got a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less in the future.

Check out this video of a Bentley Turbo R in Jay Leno's garage:

Bentley

BENTLEY TURBO R REVIEW

How do you improve an already excellent luxury saloon? Strap a whacking great turbo on to it, of course. We sample a tasty classic...

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 in 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is now the luxury bargain of the 21st Century. The best thing is that Turbo Rs make absolute sense as a driving machine too. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser vehicles. If you’re in a post-1990 model complete with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

VITAL STATISTICS

1987 Bentley Turbo R

Engine                                    6750cc/8-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  330bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 480lb ft@2250rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                  7sec

Consumption                            14mpg

Gearbox                                    3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The first Turbo Rs are now 25 years old, so despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to corrosion if the car hasn’t been cared for. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough with your examination. Under the car, front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely.

ENGINE

Pre-1987 carburettor-fed examples are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, unknown on fuel-injected models. Either motor should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided that proper service intervals
have been respected.

Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault, the latter more common on post-1994 cars. Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Cooling leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should find you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign
– a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results, so be on your guard.  

RUNNING GEAR

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used through the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.

Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models. Leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses. 

INTERIOR

It is unlikely you will find a car where the cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these symptoms point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so avoid cracked or peeling varnish. Ensure exterior chrome isn’t pitted – the hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should also be straight and free from scratches.

OUR VERDICT

Turbo Rs are complex machines, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price, but you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things go wrong. Rough examples can have a thirst for cash that’s bigger than their thirst for fuel. Get a good one, however, and it can be astonishing value for money. But be careful – once you’ve acquired a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less.

TRIUMPH 1300/1500 REVIEW

Good examples of these FWD saloons are getting hard to find - so buy one now...

Intended to bang a nail in the coffin of the long-running Herald and at the same time take on the popularity of the Austin 1100, Triumph obviously had high hopes when it launched its 1300 in 1965.

While it didn't actually achieve the sales that the company had in mind, Triumph's first front-wheel drive car did play a major role in the development of the Toledo, Sprint and Dolomites and introduced a well-proportioned saloon that has proved to be a very popular everyday classic.

Initially the 1300FWD used the same 1296cc engine from the Herald 13/60 it was supposed to be replacing. The unit was positioned above the gearbox in a front/back configuration that placed some ocnstraints on the car's design. However, stylist Michelotti produced a gret body style, following on from the look of the 2000, with a central airtake on the bonnet plus the subtle roofline terminating with a lip above the rear window.

In 1967 a twin-carburretor version appeared with the sportier 1300TC model, providing a further 14bhp and fitted with a brake servo to help control the extra power.

Significant revision came in 1970 with the introduction of the 1500FWD that saw the look of the car changed with twin headlamps and a seven-inch growth spurt.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1296cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power: 61hp@5000rpm

Torque: 73lb ft@3000rpm

Maximum speed: 85mph

0-60mph: 19.0sec

Fuel consumption: 29-33mpg

Transmission: FWD, four-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

The rot pack

Be sure to check the front inner wing behind the suspension turret, as well as the usual rot spots - boot floor, chassis rails, door bottoms, front panels, jacking points, sills and wheelarches. Reproduction panels appear on websites occasionally but front panels and valances are becoming very hard to obtain.

Get your motor running

To get the best from Triumph's three bearing crank engine, make sure the oil is fresh and quality oil filters are used. The starter is unique to the 1300, as the starter ring is on the crank pulley - it rotates anti-clockwise. While in theory not suitable for unleaded fuel, some owners use unleaded and knock the timing back a couple of degrees.

Working on the inside

The FWD gearbox can suffer from weak second gear synchro but parts are availale and it can be rebuilt without removing the box from the car. The input shaft is another potentially weak spot. Canley Classics stocks an upgraded shaft and gear combination. If the clutch needs changing, it can be done from inside the car.

Interior items

The 1300FWD's trim is unique, but it is durable. It also has a different dashboard, carpets, door handles, locks anf even window winders. Headlinings tend to be glue-stained from the factory while rear seat uprights are prone to fading. Be careful with the instrument binnacle - a plastic moulding - which can crack when refitted. Water/damp in the footwells is a tell-tale sign of leaks from the windscreen.

Radiator/Cooling system/heater

There are two types of radiator - early cars have a single top hose while the later ones feature a double set up. Hoses are available from specialists ot the TDC.

Exhaust stock

New old-stock mild steel systems appear from time to time, while the TDC can supply a stainless system.

OUR VERDICT

Both the 1300FWD and 1500FWD cars offer great value for money with a satisfying mix of luxury and practicality. They are good-looking cars, fun to drive and capable of keeping up with contemporary traffic. The base model 1300FWD and 1500FWD cars generally offer the best deals though increasingly some models, particularly the 1500SE, are becoming rarer to source. People with good examples tend to hang on to them.

Club support is excellent for these cars, not just for camaraderie and parts supply, but also for finding decent cars with history details to match. 

BITTER SC REVIEW

It’s stylish, exclusive, reliable and well built – and fast too. In fact the Bitter SC makes a superb long-distance cruiser, but they’re none too plentiful.
 

The Germans have a reputation for fabulous engineering but combined with dowdy looks. So wouldn’t it be great if you could combine Teutonic running gear with a svelte suit? Well wouldn’t you know it – that’s exactly what Erich Bitter did when he came up with the SC (Senator Coupé) in 1979.

Blending stylish lines with Opel engineering, the Bitter SC came and went before most UK buyers even realised it existed, ensuring few were sold. The survival rate is high however, so while SCs are uncommon, they are around.

The SC coupé debuted in 1979, right-hand drive cars arriving in the UK in 1982. When the SC died in 1989, just 26 RHD cars had been sold, all two-door coupe and two of them with four-wheel drive.

Most of the 450 SCs built were coupés, but there were also five four-door saloons and 25 convertibles. None of these are in the UK though and they were all left-hand drive, so if you’re after an SC, the chances are you’ll have to settle for an LHD coupé brought over from mainland Europe.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2969cc 6-cylinder SOHC
Power 178bhp@5800rpm
Torque 179lb ft@5800rpm
Top Speed 134mph
0-60mph 8.8sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

The first 50 SCs, all LHD and built between late-1980 and early-1983, are the most rust-prone as they were made of recycled steel – most have now rotted away. Later cars were better-built; best of the lot are post-1983 cars, which were dipped for more thorough rustproofing. You’d be unlucky to find a rotten car, but there are quite a few trouble spots on an SC’s bodyshell.

Start with the top of each front suspension turret; proper repairs require the removal of the outer wing, and the suspension will collapse if it’s ignored. The front and rear screen surrounds also corrode, as their sealant dries out and cracks, allowing water in; the screens have to be removed altogether in some cases.

The rear wheelarches also rust, as does the lower edge of the bootlid, which rots from the inside out. The frames of the rear side windows often rust, as do the trailing edge of the front wings, the bottom edges of the doors and the leading as well as the trailing edges of the sills, all of which rust from the inside out. Finish off by checking the headlamp wells from behind by lifting the bonnet; they rot once their drain holes have blocked up.

Replacement panels are unavailable aside from the odd used item through the club; it’s the same for the exterior brightwork and rubbing strips, which are unique to the model. Windscreens are available but the rest of the SC’s glass is pretty much extinct, although the odd second-hand piece can be sourced occasionally.

ENGINE

All SCs have an Opel-sourced straight-six, displacing either 3.0- or 3.9-litres; the smaller engine is rare as the larger unit was offered from 1984, and most buyers specified it. Bitter used German tuning outfit Mantzel to create a 3.9-litre engine from a 3.0 unit; the cylinder head, pistons and crankshaft were all modified, but Mantzel is still in business and everything is still available if needed – but costly.

The straight-six is strong, but it tends to run hot, leading to the manifold gasket blowing – the manifold faces have also been known to warp. The heat given off by the engine can also lead to the fuel injection wiring melting, so make sure the engine runs smoothly.

TRANSMISSION

The transmission was taken from the Senator/Monza, so it’s tough. Most SCs have a three-speed automatic gearbox, although a few have a manual one. Of the manuals, most have the five-speed Getrag 265 ‘box of the later Senator/Monza, but a few feature the earlier four-speed unit. Early boxes can be swapped for later ones, although some jiggery pokery is required.

Propshafts, driveshafts and differentials are strong, with wear almost unknown. Incidentally, all SCs have a limited-slip diff, which should be filled with the correct LSD-friendly oil, even though the Bitter handbook states that standard EP80 lubricant can be used.

SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

The SC’s suspension is also taken from the pre-1983 Monza/Senator, but it’s lowered and stiffened, with Bilstein gas dampers. Everything is available, so if you bounce each corner to see if it’s tired, and find it is, all is not lost.

Until August 1983 there were fixed callipers at the front, but later cars used a floating design. Both types are reliable though, and everything is available, although it’s getting ever harder to find.

INTERIOR

Most of the SC’s interior surfaces are covered in fine calf skin, which can split or tear, or crack if it’s been allowed to dry out – repairs are costly. The same goes for the woodwork, which can delaminate.

If the air-con system has its original R12 refrigerant, which is now illegal, it’ll cost £1000 plus to convert it to a modern refrigerant; if the system isn’t working at all, expect a similar-size bill to get it operational. Also ensure the heater works properly, as the matrix can fail and replacements are hard to find. Even worse, the dash has to come out to fit a new matrix, which is why the whole system is sometimes bypassed. Check there’s a pipe running from the front of the engine through the bulkhead – if it runs down to the back of the engine instead, the matrix has been bypassed.

ELECTRICS

The electrics are generally reliable, although the loom can fracture where it goes into the doors, for the windows, central locking and mirrors. The instruments and switchgear are all taken from the 1978-1981 Senator, aside from the electric mirror switch; that came from the 1983 Senator. Nothing is available new, although used bits crop up occasionally. The instruments carry the Bitter logo though, so you’ll need professional help to swap the faces over if you need to replace anything.

All lighting is available; early cars feature Fiat 126 sidelights and indicators (mounted in the bumpers) while the Ferrari Mondial supplied the later ones; they’re harder to find and much more costly. The rear lights are taken from the Lancia Monte Carlo, and they’re available but expensive.

VERDICT

Yes – if you can find one. The SC is utterly usable as it’s well screwed together and uses relatively modern engineering. However, while purchase costs are low and maintenance is straightforward, fuel costs can be high; in general use you can expect just 20mpg or so. Still, when you’ve got as much style as the SC can muster, you’ll be too busy soaking up the admiring glances to worry about the fuel bills.

TVR CHIMAERA REVIEW

The Chimaera was produced by TVR for nine years, between 1992 and 2003. Those who remember Greek myths and legends from school will be familiar with the cars name Chimaera was a creature composed of several different animal parts. The two seater was equipped with various sized engines throughout its production lifespan, ranging from a 4.0l V8 to a 5.0l V8.

It's an affordable route into TVR ownership, and you'll never tire of the looks or the exhaust note. Here's how to pick up some Blackpool thunder.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 4495cc/V8/OHV

Power 285bhp @ 5500rpm

Torque 300lb ft @ 4250rpm

Top Speed 158mph

0-60mph 4.6sec

Consumption 20mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

Values £6000-22,000

IMPRESSIONS

The Chimaera is one smooth car. Free of door handles, fuel filler cap and even number plate lights, it has an unadorned beauty. Yet that chiselled snout hints at the menace that lurks below the sculpted bonnet while air vents allow a glimpse of the beast below.

Open the bonnet and the big V8 looks very snug in there.  The exhaust manifold sweeps forward into a huge downpipe that looks rather like an anaconda that's swallowed a small deer. Clearly, a lot of thought has gone into this installation.

Slip inside, and the work of Peter Wheeler, the man behind TVR in the Nineties and responsible for the Chimaera, becomes apparent. He was keen to move away from the parts-bin feel that typified earlier TVRs, and the bespoke switchgear is a clear indication of that. Ok, so the Vauxhall ignition barrel would be perfectly at home in a Mk2 Cavalier, but the column stalks, most of the switchgear and the gear knob are beautifully hewn out of aluminium. It's also very apparent that this is a quality place to sit, with lots of leather and visible stitching which is beautiful to behold. The seats are supremely comfortable too, a reminder that the Chimaera was meant to be a bit softer than the all-out Griffith sibling. All things are relative though – it’s a bit like saying that the Tiger is the least dangerous of the big cats.

If you're wondering what the control on the centre console does – the one that's not a gearshift or handbrake – it opens the doors, which use electric solenoids. All part of the drama and a reminder that this is definitely not the mainstream.

ON THE ROAD

The big V8 fires up seemingly with all the enthusiasm of a schoolboy with an early morning test. It's lumpy and sort of gurgles away up front sounding like an out of tune American pick-up. It's still very pleasant, but it doesn't really sound sporting, though the exhaust note has a thunderous beat to it.

Undaunted, I select first with the stubby shifter – which has a delightfully mechanical action – and ease up the clutch. Of course, there's oodles of torque, so barely any throttle is needed as I manoeuvre away. With the engine cold, I keep the changes coming and burble off down the road. This gives a chance to take in my surroundings. It's immediately apparent that the steering is geared to be very direct, but power assistance takes the effort out of it at low speeds. However, it takes a little getting used to, with the steering feeling a bit nervous as I get used to quickness of it.

Ride comfort is impressive, especially for a car that also feels so raw. Even Fenland roads cannot upset the composure, though really broken surfaces to cause the plastic panels to rattle slightly. However, comfort isn’t really what this car is about, so now the engine's nice and warm, let's see what she'll do.

At 50mph in fifth, a brutal application of throttle soon has speed picking up, but if anything, it feels a bit tame for something that's got as much power as this. A junction gives a chance to slot down to second and this time, it's a very different story. That V8, which had seemed so truculent and even, dare I say it, a bit lazy, screams like a startled mare and once 3000rpm is reached, the power comes thick and fast. Keep the pedal down and the exhaust goes from a burble to a full-blooded roar as the engine rapidly heads towards peak power at 5500rpm. The gate is short and I snick the lever to third for a brief burst before thing get a touch on the speedy side, so I slot into fifth. And smile a lot.

As the road twists and curves, the handling comes alive. The enormous tyres tame the power, and provide plenty of grip. The direct steering is perfectly weighted at speed and with practise, you can aim the nose with uncanny precision. Ease the power in for balance and once heading straight (and only when doing so) the right-pedal can be lowered once more and we're off to the next one.

The brakes need a good shove to give their best, but that feels right. They're certainly up to the task and give me the confidence that yes, I will be going at a sensible speed when I reach my turn-in point. It's all incredible exciting yet, when you decide to calm things down and head back to the main roads, the car changes character once more, and becomes relatively docile and gentle. However, if you keep pottering around a village for too long, the car develops a brooding impatience to get moving again, feeling distinctly lumpy if you bimble around for too long.

It certainly delivers an entertaining driving experience, and it's most odd to recall that production of the Chimaera only ended five years ago. It's even more incredible to realise that Chimaeras do not cost the earth to buy. The one I'm driving has a value of £11,995 – that's Merc SL or Triumph Stag money. The Chimaera has left me feeling utterly thrilled, demonstrating that the Great British sportscar traditions were alive well into the 21stCentury

OUR VERDICT

The Chimaera is great to drive, and shouldn't prove difficult to look after if you buy a sound example; and there's excellent club and specialist support. The addictive noise and performance is worth every penny in our book.

TVR Chimaera

BEDFORD CA DORMOBILE (1952-1969) REVIEW

The van that started the camper revolution, Bedford’s immortal CA still makes ideal holiday accommodation.

Few commercial vehicles can claim to have shaped social history like the Bedford CA. Following its 1952 launch, it kick-started the post-WW2 camper van revolution.

With modern full-width steel panels and a shortened nose, complemented by Vauxhall-derived mechanicals, the new Luton-built van was streets ahead of the ageing PC model it replaced.

Kent-based coachbuilders Martin Walter saw it as the natural choice for the multi-purpose Utilicon and Utilibrake conversions. Acting as van, estate car, minibus and overnight sleeper, this spawned the fully-equipped Dormobile. With everything the holidaymaker needed in one package, the leisure industry would never quite be the same again.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1594cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  59bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 86lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                68mph

0-60mph                                  Approx 40sec (be brave)

Consumption                            24mpg  

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is often a major issue with the CA. Secondhand panels occasionally crop up, but be prepared to repair what you have. The step recesses behind the front and rear doors are the first places to inspect, followed by the door bottoms and the lower quarters of the body. Filler could be hiding some nasty surprises, so watch for bubbling paint. Sill structures are vulnerable, so they should be examined closely, as should chassis box sections.

Later Romany Deluxe Dormobiles had glassfibre trim panels fitted. The finned rear wing panels can cause trouble if moisture has been trapped between steel and glassfibre, allowing rot to remain unnoticed until it’s too late. Crusty rear wheelarches and rust stains bleeding from under trim are clues.

Not all Dormobiles were built with the famous elevating roof, although if this feature is present, then its condition is crucial. Replacement of the striped plastic material is possible, but it won’t be cheap. Check that the glassfibre roof panel is sealed correctly and that rainwater hasn’t been allowed ingress. If this has happened, inspect the floorpans and interior trim for signs of rot or damage.

ENGINE

Accessed by an external ‘bonnet’ hatch, and a removable panel between the front footwells, the CA was powered by all-iron engines of 1508cc and, later, 1594cc capacities. These powerplants work harder in the CA than in the Vauxhall Victor, but they are sturdy. As a result, check for the same maladies as other British four-cylinder units.

Blue oil smoke is a clear indicator of worn valve guides or bore wear, the latter being an engine-out job. White smoke from the exhaust points to head gasket failure, as does traces of ‘mayonnaise’ in the oil, or lubricant and coolant being mixed.

RUNNING GEAR

Despite its cutting-edge design, the CA was initially only available with a ‘three-on-the-tree’ column gear-change. This was later upgraded to four speeds. Check if the synchromesh on second and third gears (and fourth on later units) still provides crunch-free changes.

Look for leaks from the oil seals – if lubricant levels have run low then the transmission is likely to be noisy. Expect some noise from units with high mileage, but particularly vocal gearboxes will require rebuilding or replacement. The same goes for rear axles, which can suffer from low oil levels.

The all-round drum brake system should be capable of slowing the CA from speed without
too much fuss. Check the van pulls up squarely
– leaking or sticking wheel cylinders could be behind pulling to either side.

INTERIOR

With more fittings than most classics, including domestic fixtures alien to the average saloon, there’s plenty to inspect. External brightwork varied from model to model, but missing parts will be extremely difficult to replace.

Inside, check that the Dormobile folding seats are in operating condition, and that soft furnishings such as seat covers and curtains aren’t damaged. If the melamine-covered wooden cupboards require repair, then imagination will be required. Ensure that sinks and gas hobs are present and correct.

OUR VERDICT

The Bedford CA Dormobile is more than just a classic vehicle – it is also a people-mover, load-lugger, spare bedroom, style icon and holiday choice. 

Regardless if nostalgia or camping practicality is your motivation, the CA is
as practical and as entertaining as it was in the 1950s. All you need to see the world is
a sense of adventure and a CA.

TVR GRIFFITH REVIEW

This roadster looks great, sounds even better, and the sledgehammer performance is hard to resist.

If you’re not instantly smitten by the looks, then you almost certainly will be by the driving experience. Dominated by the bellowing V8 engines, the noise and performance are seriously addictive and it takes only a matter of yards to realise why the Griffith is so popular. Unashamedly macho in design and execution, lack of traction control or ABS means a degree of caution is needed in slippery conditions. 
The well-judged suspension set-up and strong brakes inspire confidence though and there’s real enjoyment to be had on the right road. The Griffith’s cabin is a fine place to spend time, and there is plenty of equipment too. A sound driving position with plenty of adjustment and supportive seats make for a fine long-distance companion, so this really is a performance car to use every day.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    4988cc/V8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  340bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 350lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                167mph

0-60mph                                  4.1sec

Consumption                            20mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
There are no particular issues with the high quality GRP bodywork, although the low-slung nose is susceptible to stone-chips and it’s worth checking for cracks or minor damage that can be tricky to repair. A surfeit of power, no electronic driver aids, and popularity as a track day tool mean accident damage is a real possibility, so iffy panel alignment should ring alarm bells. Impacts won’t do much for chassis alignment either so get a professional inspection if you’re unsure. Make sure the lift-out targa panel and rear screen are undamaged as neither are a cheap fix, while some exterior parts (the Cavalier GSi-sourced smoked tail lights for instance) are hard to find. 

Checking the state of the chassis is absolutely vital on a Griffith. The steel spaceframe was powder-coated to (unsuccessfully) prevent corrosion, and the safest approach is to assume it will be rotten. Outriggers are usually first to go, and while repairs may be possible without removing the body, a £2000 bill from a specialist beckons. The chassis tubes are visible in the wheelarches at the end of the sill and if the coating has chipped away and rust is visible here, assume the worst and get the car on a ramp. However, removing the body is often the only way of being certain.

ENGINE

The Rover-derived V8s were 4.0, 4.3, and 5.0-litre units (with a tiny number of 4.5s built), all with Lucas engine management. Don’t worry too much about oil leaks – the sump joint and rocker cover are the likely culprits and easy to sort – but failed camshafts were a known weakness so check for evidence of replacement. Leaking radiators can cause overheating so keep an eye on the dials during the test drive – fitting an uprated aluminium item is a worthwhile modification. Cracked exhaust manifolds aren’t unheard of either.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were either the LT-77 Rover unit (early models) or the Borg Warner T5 (500 and all models from 1994). Both are strong with the T5 considered almost indestructible in normal use, although a graunch when selecting reverse is normal on these – selecting a forward gear first avoids the problem. Clutches last well considering the performance – usually 30,000 miles or so – while a slight whine from the limited slip differential isn’t a worry. The GKN unit in early cars was swapped for a Salisbury from 1994.

BRAKES

The brakes are more than up to handling the performance but watch for juddery warped discs. Uneven tyre wear or knocking over bumps is likely to mean suspension bushes and ball-joints in need of attention, and make sure you examine the chassis where the wishbones attach, as it’s a common rot-spot. Power steering was a desirable option when new, though bear in mind new powered racks aren’t available. 

INTERIOR

Top-quality cabin materials mean you’ll be facing a substantial four-figure bill for a complete re-trim, so make sure the wood and leather are undamaged and there is no evidence of water leaks. Substantial heat-soak means air-conditioning is desirable so make sure it blows cold and check all the electrics work as intended. Any signs of bodged wiring on a Griff’ should have you running a mile.

OUR VERDICT

For sheer looks and drama, a well-sorted Griffith is a car many of us would find hard to resist. Admittedly, the shouty attitude won’t suit everyone and it isn’t a car for shrinking violets, but if it’s performance you want and a car that turns every journey into an occasion, then this TVR is for you. We’d take the full-fat 500.

BALLOT 2LTS REVIEW

A former marine engineer, Ernest Ballot originally founded his company in 1910 in Paris to manufacture internal combustion engines for cars and stationary use.

By 1919 Ballot was producing complete chassis with exotic twin-cam multi-valve cylinder heads designed for racing. As well as entering the French, Italian, and Spanish Grand Prix, entries to the Targa Florio and Indianapolis 500 were also made, winning several events with spectacular performances. However, these machines were expensive and had a limited market, and from 1921 a 93mph 2LS road car was developed with twin-cams and 4 valves per cylinder. By 1923 the 2LT single cam was available to the British market, numbering about 1500 examples.

TVR TASMIN REVIEW

Stylish and eye-catching partnered with brute power, the TVR 'Wedge' range was an enduring success. Developed with input from Lotus designers Oliver Winterbottom and Ian Jones, the Tasmin FHC Series 1 was officially launched at the NEC Motor Show in October 1980 as a two-seater coupé. 

Initially powered by the 2792cc fuel injected Ford V6 'Cologne' 160bhp power plant and a non-overdrive four speed manual gearbox, with the option of an automatic being offered as from October 1980. The Tasmin was the first TVR to have this as an option.

The range expanded with a 2+2 and convertible in 1981. The Plus 2 was short lived, but when it was dropped, the larger body, without the rear seats, was used for the coupé. A five-speed gearbox was introduced in 1983.

Sales of the Tasmin were slow, in part due to the steep increase in price from the outgoing Taimars. TVR production reached a low of 121 in 1982. TVR briefly trialled an "entry level" priced version, the Tasmin 200, powered by the Ford 1993cc four cylinder Pinto engine. They didn’t prove popular and production was halted after a short time. Only 16 Tasmin 200 coupes and 45 convertibles were made in total.

There swiftly followed a short lived experiment with turbo charging the Tasmin, in an attempt to increase the performance of the V6 cars, which never really made it into production and only a few examples of the Tasmin Turbo were ever produced. 

In 1984 the Tasmin name was dropped and the car was rebadged TVR 280i, although early 350i's were also referred to as the "Tasmin 350i".

The Tasmin brought two ‘firsts’ to the motoring world. It was the first production car in the world to have both a bonded windscreen and also to incorporate the aerial in the rear screen heater element.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine Ford V6 'Cologne'

Power 145bhp

Torque 150lb ft

Top speed 134mph

0-60mph 9.7sec

Economy 22mpg

Gearbox Five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Engine

The engines on the 200, 280i and 350i are pretty much standard Ford and Rover units. Parts for the engines themselves are relatively common although be aware that not all components are standard Ford items as TVR has been known to modify certain components.

Chassis

The chassis comprises of a steel tubular pipework that has been powder coated for extra corrosion resistance. Over the years the protective surface is compromised and water gets in and starts to lift the protective coating. Before you know it the chassis has started to rot. Check this out thoroughly.

Bodywork & Trim

Bodypanels, doors, light pods, bumpers, spoilers etc are now getting scarce, especially as the factory now no longer stocks such items. Although there are a few specialist fibreglass repair companies offering a full repair service full panel replacements will be difficult to source.

Interior trim can also be expensive to have repaired or replaced. The wood vaneer and leather seats and upholstery are a prime example of such items. If you can, when looking to purchase a car, try to get one with the trim in relatively good condition. The interiors on these cars can deteriorate quickly if not looked after.

The hood and door/window seals can be replaced but again, bank on an outlay of quite a few hundred pounds unless you are talented or brave enough to do the work yourself.

Electrics

Issues with electrical items not working can be down to simply a wire off or a corroded fuse terminal to a failed or seized component. Some of the motors for instance such as the light pod lift, window lift, wing mirror positioning, heater fan and windscreen wiper motors can be very expensive to replace and difficult to source. Check these all work prior to negotiating a potential purchase.

Brakes & Transmission

The brakes have never been a strong point of the Wedge series cars so bear this in mind when stamping on them on a test drive. Also listen out for noises and 'clonks' from the transmission and suspension. This could be a sign of worn UJ's, failing steering racks or worn suspension bushes and springs etc.

OUR VERDICT

Riding around on a tidal wave of V8 noise with the roof down simply does not get any better. Go for it, stand out from the crowd and get yourself a TVR Wedge.

AUSTIN-HEALEY SPRITE REVIEW

Proving that less is more, the original Austin-Healey Sprite arguably started the trend for low-budget sports cars. We look into buying one today...
 

The original ‘Frogeye’ Sprite was a cheap and cheerful mass-produced sporting convertible that was also tremendous fun. Cheeky looks - the headlamps were initially planned to be retractable, until BMC realised that this innovative feature would put the price up – covered up the fact that underneath the skin it was mainly a blend of Austin A35 and Morris Minor. However, the humble ingredients were still capable of providing entertaining levels of performance. The 948 cc OHV engine (coded 9CC) was upgraded with twin 1.25 inch SU carburettors, giving 43bhp. The BMC Competition Department entered Austin-Healey Sprites in major international races and rallies, their first major success coming when John Sprinzel and Willy Cave won their class on the 1958 Alpine Rally. Prices today are out of all proportion to the Sprite’s budget origins, but they remain popular with sports car enthusiasts.

Despite the diminutive proportions of the Frogeye, even tall or bulky drivers can get comfortable behind the wheel pretty easily. Given that it weighs little more than half a ton, it is amazingly agile and this leads to the feeling the car is quicker than you’d expect. The 948cc engine revs freely up to about 400rpm, but begins to feel a little strained after that. The steering is light and impressively responsive too, while the non-servo-assisted brakes are positive and the gearchange is reasonably precise. The bodyshell is surprisingly rigid and the ride, although a little on the frim side, is not too jarringly firm. It gives both driver and passenger intimate knowledge of every surface irregularity along the way. At the same time however, there is a feeling of manoeuvrability control. Eventually the bumps fade away, to be replaced by a fiendish desire to slice around everything else blocking your way. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1958 Austin-Healey Sprite

Engine                                    948cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  45bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 52lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  20.9sec

Consumption                            34mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Frogeye was one of the first sports cars to sport monococque construction, so clearly any major body rot is not just going to be unsightly – potentially, it can be a complete deal-breaker.

As such, as well as all the usual places – arches, bonnet lip, etc. – check all the reinforcing box sections around the bulkheads, sills and jacking points – if there’s more frilly ferrous oxide here than metal, then only truly dedicated DIY restorers should proceed.

Close inspection of the enormous one-piece front is a must, too the entire front end – bonnet, wings and front panel – lifts in one piece to afford access to the engine, so it’s regularly put under a lot of structural stress. Ensure the rear hinges and surrounding metalwork are sound.

ENGINE

One of the major parameters for the Frogeye was always affordability – both for the buyer and for the manufacturer. To wit, the engine that nestles beneath that grinning front is a derivation of BMC’s venerable 948cc engine, which also did sterling service in the Austin A35 and Morris Minor.

And that’s good news, because engines don’t come much simpler than this. Performance was racked up to a dizzying 43bhp by the addition of twin SU carbs, although it’s not unheard of for Frogeyes to end up with a tuned Mini engine of some description – the 1275cc is the most popular – under the bonnet. This isn’t a problem in itself, although anything other than complete adherence to originality can have a detrimental effect on values.

Being of such simple design, major problems on well-maintained cars are rare, although the causes of any of the usual warning signs – blue smoke on the overrun, uneven idling, persistent cutting out, reluctance to run smoothly when hot – are usually very easy to trace.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

The Frogeye’s steering and suspension were also lifted from the Morris Minor. Quarter elliptic rear springs and lever arm dampers don’t sound terribly exciting, but the addition of an upper radius arm above the rear axle virtually eliminated axle tramp. Anything other than ultra-alert handling, then, suggests that something is amiss.

Leaf spring breakage is common, as is rust both where the radius arms attach and around the spring location boxes on the rear bulkhead. Up front, worn damper bearings and kingpin bushes (these latter as a result of indifferent greasing) should always start alarm bells ringing.

Elsewhere, the differential is prone to oil leaks and halfshafts have a habit of breaking. The rack-and pinion steering is reassuringly robust, though, with split gaiters the only known recurring problem.

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.

INTERIOR

There’s not a great deal to the Frogeye’s interior, and while wear and tear to seats, carpets, etc. is inevitable, excellent aftermarket parts back-up means replacements – while hardly cheap – are reasonably plentiful.

Expect most of the wear to centre on the area behind the seats exterior appearances notwithstanding, the Frogeye isn’t actually fitted with an opening bootlid, so luggage must be hauled in and out via the open area immediately behind the seats. Inevitably, then, wear and tear is accelerated here, although the fact that full replacement carpet sets are readily available for less than £120 means this isn’t a huge problem. Elsewhere, wavering speedometer needles are common, but not the end of the world, although replacing a failed water temperature gauge can get expensive as the dial is combined with the oil pressure gauge, thereby effectively doubling the re-wiring job.

OUR VERDICT

There isn’t much that isn’t available new for the Austin-Healey Sprite. That said, if work is required, then restoration costs can quickly mount up. The simple construction of the car allows for a thorough inspection to be made of a prospective purchase before you actually part with your hard earned cash, so there is no reason for you to get your fingers burned.

Running costs are also very low – the road tax is free and insurance should be cheap too. Whatever you buy – and as long as you don’t pay over the odds – you’ll be having a whale of a time from the first moment you drive it. There’s not much that can touch the Frogeye for simplicity, even after more than half a century has passed since it first saw the light of day. So what are you waiting for?

TVR TUSCAN REVIEW

TVR’s long overdue replacement for the historically rather parts-bin Grantura finally broke cover in 1967, and instantly caused quite a stir. Previous models had never packed anything more powerful than a Coventry Climax, Ford Kent or BMC B-Series four-cylinder engine, but opening the bonnet of the first of the TVR Tuscans revealed a 4.7-litre V8 that packed 195bhp (over 270bhp on some US-market cars) and could push the little car all the way to 155mph.

Later models made do with a ‘mere’ V6 that mustered 136bhp and could top 125mph, but the car proved too much of a handful for buyers, and the Vixen that replaced it reverted to four-cylinder power.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2994cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power 134bhp@4750rpm

Torque 173lb/ft@3000rpm

Top speed 125mph               

0-60mph 8.3sec

Economy N/A

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

The Tuscan uses a GRP body that is obviously impervious to rust, but crazing or cracking in the gelcoat is a sure sign of previous accident damage that hasn’t been repaired properly – quite a common problem on these often tricky handling little cars, and especially the V8. The tubular steel chassis can rot with the best of them, though, so make sure you take a peek underneath.

Build quality was never a strong point on these cars, and while most survivors are likely have been subjected to a proper restoration by now, check for mile-wide panel gaps and missing trim. This latter isn’t quite so much of a problem, as many trim items are shared with other, more mainstream cars – rear lights are shared with the Mk2 Ford Cortina, for example.

ENGINE

Tuscan power may have come courtesy of some seriously potent engines, but both the V6 and V8 are extremely tough units that can withstand big mileages with proper maintenance.

The 4.7-litre (289ci) Windsor V8 is closely related to the engine used in early Mustangs, and is as bullet-proof as any other small-block V8. The V6, meanwhile, is Ford’s familiar and easy to work on 3.0-litre Essex, as seen in both the Zodiac and Capri, among many other models. Both engines have plenty of tuning potential and huge parts back-up.

Common faults on maltreated cars include worn valve guides and/or piston rings (look out for oily exhaust smoke). Poor or erratic idling is often as a result of a damaged distributor or damaged contact breaker points, while excessive under-bonnet heat can cause fuel vaporisation, making an aftermarket electric fan a wise investment.

RUNNING GEAR

One area where the V6 and V8 cars do differ noticeably is in terms of their brakes. Where the V6 used front discs and rear drums, the V8’s greater power warranted better stopping power in the guise of all-round disc brakes.

Make sure the suspension is up to scratch, too: even the rare longer wheelbase models can oversteer seemingly at will in unpractised hands, so tired dampers and worn track-rod ends will simply make matters worse. Get any prospective purchase up onto a lift and have a good poke around. Better still, get a marque expert to do it for you.

Gearboxes have proved strong over the years, although any car that has seen hillclimb or trackday use may well be suffering from weakened synchromesh by now, with the upshift into second particularly prone to related crunching.

INTERIOR

This is where you need to be particularly vigilant when assessing a prospective purchase, as TVR trim build quality has never entirely inspired confidence.

One of the biggest issues concerns cab ventilation, which can be average to poor on both models, but particularly problematic on the V8s, which generate an enormous amount of heat. It was a problem when the cars were new, and short of expensive and/or Heath Robinson attempts to remedy the situation by previous owners, you’ll probably just have to put up with it.

Similarly, these cars are very popular with the motorsport fraternity, so cars in wholly original condition aren’t always easy to find, especially given the cars’ general rarity. If a car has spent time on-track, then bucket seats, re-trimmed dashboards, different steering wheels and so on may compromise an already cosy cockpit, especially on non-long-wheelbase cars, so do make sure you fit inside!

OUR VERDICT

This era of Tuscan was still under the remit of TVR legend, Martin Lilley, so they’re considered among the very best of the breed by marque aficionados. They’re also very rare (just 174 models in total sold between 1967 and 1971), extremely pretty and pack a ferocious punch when you put your foot down. The thunderous V8s in particular are almost absurdly fast, although the V6s aren’t that far behind. Take care with that oversteer-prone handling, though!

AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 REVIEW

With a lusty, six-cylinder soundtrack, the Austin-Healey 3000 is one of the most evocative British classics around.

When the Austin-Healey 3000 was launched, externally at least it was unchanged from the outgoing 100-6. The major changes were mechanical, with the C-series engine growing in size to 2912cc. The 3000 MkII arrived in March 1961, with some detail changes and boasting a three-carburettor set-up, while the MkIII followed in March 1964. The last of the Big Healeys was built in 1967, but all variants remain popular today.

VITAL STATISTICS

1959 Austin-Healey 3000 MkI

Engine                                    2912cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  124bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 162lb ft@2700rpm

Top speed                                114mph

0-60mph                                  11.4sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Examine bodywork very carefully – it consists of many overlapping compound curves and that celebrated swage line takes a skilled body man hours to get right. Any misalignment where it crosses from door skin to wing will be obvious – experienced Healey restorers usually repair a door rather than re-skin it, in order to preserve the swage.

Also thoroughly assess the front metalwork around the grille and bonnet for any damage. This ‘shroud’ is made from sections of alloy that are butt-welded and planished together, meaning it is very easily damaged, not to mention a prime candidate for being bodged back together with filler.

Chassis rails should appear straight when viewed along their length from the front of the car – any rippling or waviness suggests past accident damage. If the damage is severe enough, a replacement chassis may be required, so be wary. Chassis outriggers often suffer with corrosion. They support long sills, creating a perimeter chassis that is equally susceptible to rust, as is the entire bottom half of the bodywork.

ENGINE

Big Healey engines are modified Austin saloon units, meaning they’re solid lumps that last forever when properly maintained. Bored out to 2912cc for the 3000, the C-series exhibits typically 1950s characteristics – high oil consumption of up to a pint per 250 miles is common. Numerous minor oil leaks are also par for the course, but easily lived with until re-build time comes around. You’re ideally looking for oil pressure of 50psi when out on the open road, falling to 10-15psi at a hot idle. 

RUNNING GEAR

Steering boxes can wear badly, leading to poor steering performance – a re-build will usually improve things immeasurably. If the steering feels vague when on the move, try jacking the front of the car up and rocking each wheel top and bottom. The problem could be down to worn kingpins, which need greasing at every service. Suspension is also derived from contemporary Austin saloons, with double wishbones, coil springs and anti-roll bar up front, a live axle suspended on leaf springs out back, with a Panhard rod to keep side sway in check. The system was modified for the 3000 MkIII Phase II, replacing the Panhard rod with twin radius arms. The bushes in these can produce creaking noises, so keep an ear out on the test drive. 

INTERIOR

Today most owners favour all leather if a re-trim is required. If the interior is scruffy, it is possible to buy trim sets and seat covers, but if you bite the bullet and get your wallet out, you’ll see better results by farming the job out to a trim shop.

Hoods were originally made from Everflex vinyl, but some cars have now been fitted with mohair or double-duck instead.

OUR VERDICT

In common with many classics of the same era, you buy an Austin-Healey 3000 on its specification. Make sure it has the right parts for its age, as many have been messed around with over the years. Also, many 3000s have been re-imported to the UK, so be sure that any modifications have been carried out well – particularly right-hand drive conversions. With A-H specialists throughout the country, there’s no shortage of help – the only thing holding you back will be the size of your wallet.

AUSTIN-HEALEY 100/4 REVIEW

In the shadow of its younger brothers for many years, we reckon it’s time the 100/4 and its derivatives stepped into the light...

The first of the big Healeys was launched in 1952 at the London Motor Show after being developed by Donald Healey, who based his car on the Austin A90 Atlantic. Luckily for Healey, the new sports car impressed the Austin hierarchy, which immediately began building the car at Longbridge, alongside the A90. 

It used the same 2660cc four-cylinder engine as the Atlantic, but its svelte, aerodynamic shape allowed it to achieve 100mph – hence the ‘100’ moniker. 100M and 100S (above) versions are most desired, and 14,634 examples were built, before being replaced by the 100/6 in 1956.     

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Healey 100/4

Engine                                    2660cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  90bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 144lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                109mph

0-60mph                                  11.1sec

Consumption                           30mpg

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It is much more cost effective to repair or replace worn mechanicals than it is to correct poor bodywork, so it pays to buy the best example you can afford. 

It is also a good idea to consult a specialist before making a purchase, as the bodywork of the 100/4 is notoriously complex and known for hiding rot well. Being a soft top, the first thing you should check for is water ingress – make sure the carpets are dry and not discoloured. Inspect the foot wells, checking for any signs of rust, damp or shoddy repairs. Make sure you also check where the footwell meets the sills, before getting under the car to double-check the outer sills. Any signs of crustiness here should be taken as a warning sign – the inner sill is likely to be in much worse condition. Be suspicious of freshly applied underseal – it can be used to hide rot.

While checking the sills, take a look at the condition of the doors – they can be prone to rusting along the bottom. Even minor rust here can be a very expensive fix. Moving under the car again, make sure the front chassis rails are in good condition, especially where they meet the shroud. The boot floor can also be a weak point, so remember to lift the carpet and take a good look. 

ENGINE

Early BN1 models were fitted with exactly the same 2660cc four-cylinder engine as the Austin A90, mated to a three-speed manual gearbox. 100M models came on stream in 1955 and employed a cold air box, high-lift camshaft and higher compression ratio.  

Overall, these engines are incredibly tough and are capable of covering huge mileages, but a rebuild will be required eventually. Water has a habit of seeping between the head and block, so check the oil filler for signs of mayonnaise. Ideally, you’ll want this problem to have been addressed already – check for evidence in the service file. Ensure you check the oil level as well, as these engines are notoriously thirsty, sometimes using as much as one pint in only 250 miles. Listen for any knocks or clanging noises – it should run quietly and smoothly. Water channels in the engine are also prone to silting, and the same goes for the radiator. Fitting an electric fan can disguise overheating problems – best to look for prior proof of an engine strip to sort the problem.  

RUNNING GEAR

The 1950s steering box can be labour intensive to keep in fine form; quizzing the owner can often tell you more about how it has been cared for than a history file ever will.

It needs to be regularly topped up, and any vagueness can mean that an expensive rebuild is required. Don’t expect modern handling, though. 

On the test drive, pay particular attention to how the car rides. Sagging springs can make the car very low at the rear, while bushes and dampers tend to wear out quickly. If the ride is crashy or sloppy, you may need to budget for replacements. Polybushes are more expensive than you might think and can be tricky to fit.  

INTERIOR

All original seats will be leather, but most will have been retrimmed at this stage. Originality is prized, providing the condition matches. Leather can dry out easily, so look for signs that it has been fed and treated well over the years. Any damp seeping in through the roof can play havoc here, so again it is vital to check that the hood is sound. The seats can be uncomfortable, despite the Healey’s reputation for long distance touring. 

There isn’t too much to worry about on the electrics side of things – just check everything works. 

OUR VERDICT

An early Austin-Healey makes fantastic financial sense, with values sure to rise as the years roll by. When economists talk about classic cars being better than money in the bank people immediately think ‘E-type’ – but should consider a 100/4. Investment aside, a big Healey is a beautiful car with rock solid mechanicals that is endowed with beauty and proportions that are the envy of other classic cars. It’s the sort of car that your other half will fall in love with. 

AUSTIN-HEALEY FROGEYE SPRITE REVIEW

The car that went on to spawn generations of MG Midgets is now one of the most valuable examples of the breed. We assess one as a classic buy today...

It’s a little-known fact that the singlemost striking element of the Austin-Healey Sprite Mk1 – which gave the car its nick-name, in fact – was never intended to be there. Where the production car’s bulging headlights garnered it the world-famous ‘Frogeye’ moniker, BMC actually wanted the sort of flip-up headlights that would eventually appear on the Porsche 928. Budget constraints, however, saw them consigned to the cutting floor – and a legend was born.

VITAL STATISTICS

AUSTIN-HEALEY ‘FROGEYE’ SPRITE MK1

Engine                                     948cc/4-cyl/OHV 

Power (bhp@rpm)                   43bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                  52lb/ft@3300rpm

Top speed                                 83mph

0-60mph                                   21sec

Consumption                            43mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The Frogeye was one of the first sports cars to sport monococque construction, so clearly any major body rot is not just going to be unsightly – potentially, it can be a complete deal-breaker.

As such, as well as all the usual places – arches, bonnet lip, etc. – check all the reinforcing box sections around the bulkheads, sills and jacking points – if there’s more frilly ferrous oxide here than metal, then only truly dedicated DIY restorers should proceed.

Close inspection of the enormous one-piece front is a must, too: the entire front end – bonnet, wings and front panel – lifts in one piece to afford access to the engine, so it’s regularly put under a lot of structural stress. Ensure the rear hinges and surrounding metalwork are sound. 

ENGINE

One of the major parameters for the Frogeye was always affordability – both for the buyer and for the manufacturer. To wit, the engine that nestles beneath that grinning front is a derivation of BMC’s venerable 948cc engine, which also did sterling service in the Austin A35 and Morris Minor.

And that’s good news, because engines don’t come much simpler than this. Performance was racked up to a dizzying 43bhp by the addition of twin SU carbs, although it’s not unheard of for Frogeyes to end up with a tuned Mini engine of some description – the 1275cc is the most popular – under the bonnet. This isn’t a problem in itself, although anything other than complete adherence to originality can have a detrimental effect on values.

Being of such simple design, major problems on well-maintained cars are rare, although the causes of any of the usual warning signs – blue smoke on the overrun, uneven idling, persistent cutting out, reluctance to run smoothly when hot – are usually very easy to trace.

RUNNING GEAR

The Frogeye’s steering and suspension were also lifted from the Morris Minor. Quarter elliptic rear springs and lever arm dampers don’t sound terribly exciting, but the addition of an upper radius arm above the rear axle virtually eliminated axle tramp. Anything other than ultra-alert handling, then, suggests that something is amiss.

Leaf spring breakage is common, as is rust both where the radius arms attach and around the spring location boxes on the rear bulkhead. Up front, worn damper bearings and kingpin bushes (these latter as a result of indifferent greasing) should always start alarm bells ringing.

Elsewhere, the differential is prone to oil leaks and halfshafts have a habit of breaking. The rack-and-pinion steering is reassuringly robust, though, with split gaiters the only known recurring problem.

INTERIOR

There’s not a great deal to the Frogeye’s interior, and while wear and tear to seats, carpets, etc. is inevitable, excellent aftermarket parts back-up means replacements – while hardly cheap – are reasonably plentiful.

Expect most of the wear to centre on the area behind the seats: exterior appearances notwithstanding, the Frogeye isn’t actually fitted with an opening bootlid, so luggage must be hauled in and out via the open area immediately behind the seats. Inevitably, then, wear and tear is accelerated here, although the fact that full replacement carpet sets are readily available for less than £120 means this isn’t a huge problem.

Elsewhere, wavering speedometer needles are common, but not the end of the world, although replacing a failed water temperature gauge can get expensive as the dial is combined with the oil pressure gauge, thereby effectively doubling the re-wiring job.

OUR VERDICT

Not for rarity, that’s for sure – only the run-out 1500 shifted more examples than the Frogeye. No, you buy a Frogeye for its laugh-out-loud handling and cheeky looks.

The former is dependant on the suspension and monococque being in good order, but the latter comes part of the package, irrespective of condition – those lights and that cheeky grille grin are near-impossible to resist.

AUDI TT REVIEW

Sporty, well-built and practical, the Audi TT MkI is now a great buy. 
 

It may be just 17 years since the first Audi TTs arrived, but the car's classic status was assured from the day it was unveiled as a concept at the 1995 Frankfurt motor show. Distinctive styling combines with hatchback practicality and excellent build quality to make it one of the most useable sportscars ever built. Throw in low purchase prices and you begin to question just how much you want that '60s roadster that'll cost you just as much to buy and run. 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

With a fully galvanised bodyshell and excellent rustproofing, and TT that's showing signs of corrosion has been crashed then poorly repaired. If you're thinking of buying a crunched TT, all panels are available - and they're not as costly as you might think. However, repairing rear-end damage isn't easy because of the contours, but many of the front-end panels (such as the slam panel and wings) bolt on, so they're surprisingly easy to replace. Repairing the sills can be tricky though, as they're bonded and screwed.

Engines

The turbocharged 1.8-litre four-cylinder engine that powers most TTs is good for 200,000 miles is properly maintained, which means fresh oil is needed at least every 10,000 miles or 12 months. Many TTs come with variable servicing which allows up to two years or 19,000 miles between servicing - but even fully synthetic oil can be frazzled long before this, which is why that interim oil change is essential.

It's also worth replacing the timing belt, tensioners and water pump on four-cylinder cars every 60,000 miles or four years, even though Audi specified an 80,000-mile schedule. The belts tend to snap at 65-80,000 miles, often after the belt-driven water pump has seized. The results is an engine beyond economical repair, with replacement used powerplants typically around £2500 fitted. Expect to pay around £400 for the belt, tensioners and water pump to be renewed, if done by an independent specialist. If you're quoted closer to £300, it's probably to replace the belt only - which can be a false economy.

The 1.8T engine can also suffer from failure of the air mass sensors; expect to pay a specialist around £200 to fix this.
When the TT was new, the 1.8T engine famously went through a period of the coil packs failing, leading to cars off the road because of replacement shortages. While spares are now plentiful, the problem persists, so check for misfiring. New coil packs cost around £30 apiece.

The 3.2 V6 doesn't have belt-driven camshafts, but from as little as 40,000 miles the timing chain can start to rattle due to stretching or worn tensioners. Hooking up the ECU to a diagnostics machine will give the game away. Repairs mean removing the engine, costing anywhere between £1500 and £2200 depending on which parts are replaced. Because both the chain and tensioners are weak spots, it's best to replace everything while the engine is apart - which is when that £2200 bill becomes a reality.

Transmissions

Early TTs came with five or six-speed manual gearboxes only, then later came the option of Audi's brilliant dual-clutch transmission dubbed DSG (Direct Shift Gearbox). Manual boxes are incredibly strong, while clutches will last anywhere between 50,000 and 100,000 miles depending on driving style.
The DSG boxes aren't always so durable though, so look for a permanently lit or flashing red gear indicator on the dash - quizzing the ECU will also throw up a fault code. While the transmission itself usually lasts pretty well, the Mechatronic control unit tends to fail eventually, leading to jerky gearchanges, a reluctance to engage gear or an intermittent lack of drive. Repaired Mechatronic units are available from the TT shop, for around £1200. New items are £1800, or £2200 fitted.
Most TTs feature Audi's brilliant quattro four-wheel drive transmission, although some low-powered Roadsters came with a front-wheel drive option. Europe got a 148bhp FWD coupe too, but not the UK.
Contrary to popular belief, the TT's quattro drivetrain doesn't provide permanent four-wheel drive. An array of sensors feed the Haldex control unit, which activates a clutch to send power to the rear wheels when necessary. This control unit can fail, so no power is fed to the rear wheels; if this happens, the car's ECU will result in a fault code. Also, the Haldex unit in the quattro drivetrain needs an oil change every 20,000 miles. Expect to pay £70 to get this done, while every 40,000 miles you'll pay around £120 for an oil and filter change.  
 

Steering and suspension

The TT isn't a light car, which takes its toll on the suspension. It's likely that the bushes will have seen better days, especially on hard-driven cars. Usually only one or two will need to be replaced though; expect a bill of £100-200 to get the work done. Rear springs and shock absorbers can also prove weak, the latter being prone to breaking. New springs cost £80 each, while shock absorbers are £174 per pair. While you're underneath, also check the anti-roll bar links, which can corrode then break. Replacement links are £25 each, and new rubber mounts cost just £2.50 apiece.

Wheels and brakes

All TTs sit on alloy wheels, aftermarket ones are popular but quality can be variable. Make sure that whatever is fitted is made to a decent standard, as cheap rims can suffer from buckling and cracks. Check for corrosion and kerbing as original factory wheels can cost up to £500 each.
You may find the TT underbraked, even though it features ventilated discs all round (non-quattro cars got solid rear discs). Fitting harder pads at the front is a good start for £100 or so. But if you want some really reassuring anchors, fit a Brembo braking system in the nose for £1200. You could convert to V6 stoppers for half of this, but even though the discs are larger they're not as efficient.

Trim and electrics  

If you're buying a Roadster, check the hood, as a replacement costs £1000 just for the outer fabric. If the whole thing needs replacing (which is unlikely,as they're very well-made) the final bill including the frame and labour could add up to £5000 - although a bill of closer to £1800 is more likely. the TT Shop hasn't had to replace one yet, but if there's damage, it'll cost plenty to fix. Incidentally, the heated glass rear window is integral with the hood. If it's damaged, the whole lot has to be renewed.
Check every single electrical item from lighting to stereo, especially on an earlier car. Glitches are common and cures can be hard to effect. The TT 180 and TT 150 didn't get xenon lights as standard. They're worth having as they're much brighter than the halogen units, but if they fail, replacement costs are high. If you don't know what's fitted, the xenon lights come with washer nozzles in the bumper. 
 

OUR VERDICT

Collectors are already emerging for the TT. Pick of the bunch is the quattro Sport which came in Coupe form only and features an uprated (237bhp) 1.8T engine, Recaro seats and sportier suspension. It's also 75kg lighter. If you want some fun on the cheap, any manual 1.8T variant will suffice; the 3.2 V6 is thirstier, generally less reliable and more costly to maintain.
Why do you want one? Firstly, there's that amazing styling. Barely changed from the concept that sired it, the TT still looks futuristic two decades after it was first seen as a design study, but this Bauhaus-inspired machine is one of the most usable two-seaters around. The coupe is more spacious than you'd expect, and all models are solidly built and good at staving off corrosion.
DIY maintenance isn't always easy, but there are plenty of independent specialists who can keep a TT going, so running costs needn't be exorbitant - certainly a lot less than most other sports cars. 

Audi TT

AUDI 80 REVIEW

The key to the success of the second generation (B2) Audi 80 lay in its ability to comfortably swallow up a small family and their associated paraphernalia. Happily, it could do this while still offering reasonable performance and good economy, soon earning a good name for itself both at home and abroad.

Although Audi tried hard to distance the 80 from the reworked Volkswagen Passat, they nonetheless shared a large amount of components, but that was no bad thing – the new 80 was a thoroughly decent car.

Following the pattern laid down by the first generation 80, the range comprised of two and four door saloon versions as well as an optional coupe, with Audi deciding against offering an estate. The 1978 line-up used a 1588cc four-cylinder, overhead-camshaft powerplant borrowed from Volkswagen that was available in three stages of tune, with the range topping fuel-injection model boasting 110bhp. Trim levels came in three different types initially, with the bottom of the range LS and mid-level GLS nestling just below the marquee-spec GLE.

Over the course of its production life, the 80 was also fitted with enlarged 1781cc engines (as used in the VW Golf GTI, but mounted longitudinally), before reaching it’s zenith with the 2.2 litre, 5-cylinder lump as seen in the coupe variant, a development of which also propelled the awesome quattro rally car.  A 1.6 turbo-diesel was also available, though it wasn’t hugely popular due to its inherent sluggishness, the net result of which is that oil-burning examples are somewhat scarce today. The 80 was an unprecedented success for Audi, proving a mainstay of the companies production up until 1995, by then in fourth generation (B4) guise. Even today’s A4 is a progression in a long line that began with the 80.

VITAL STATISTICS

AUDI 80 B2 (1978-1986)

Engine 1994cc 5-cylinder SOHC
Power 115bhp @ 5400rpm
Torque 122lb/ft @ 5400
Top Speed 114mph
0-60mph 9.7sec
Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Even though Audi only began galvanising the 80 when B3 production began, the pre-86 models still have an excellent reputation for keeping corrosion at bay. The key here is how well a car has been looked after; bear in mind that even the youngest examples are 23 years old, so if they have been neglected then they will rust just as freely as most other cars from the era. Particular areas to examine closely include the door bottoms, front wings, rear arches and around the headlamps and windscreen, as well as the edges of both bonnet, bottom of the A pillar, scuttle panel, boot floor and boot-lid. It’s also worth popping the bonnet and checking the state of the front suspension strut towers, which are not easy to replace if particularly crusty. As the front wings are bolt-on items, it’s imperative that you take time to have a good luck at where they meet the inner wheel-arches, especially around the bolt holes themselves.

The sills on 80s were given a comprehensive anti-corrosion treatment at the factory, which you should be able to feel as a very rough finish under the paintwork. Beware though of cars that have been glossed over prior to selling on – certainly you want to give both the inner and outer sills a thorough inspection regardless of their outward appearance. Watch for stiff/awkward door handles; these were not made from the best material in the world and can break easily. Replacement parts can be obtained either from Poland via eBay, or specialists like GSF.

ENGINE

Given that the 80 emanated from the giant Volkswagen/Audi stable, there are no real horror stories relating to these tough old units. Whatever the displacement, they are strong and reliable, providing they have been properly maintained. After 100,000 miles the valve stem oil seals and valve guides can deteriorate; blue exhaust smoke is a reliable tell-tale that this has occurred so watch carefully when inspecting a prospective purchase. Excessive oil consumption is also a sign that the engine may be due for some top end work. If high-mileage examples are suffering from low compression and lumpy tickover, then the exhaust valves are likely to have begun to burn out. Another thing to check is the cam-belt. They need changing every 60,000 miles too, so has it been done recently?

Good maintenance is also the key to the 80’s fuel system: The Bosch fuel injection should remain free of concern as long as it’s filters are changed regularly as part of routine servicing. Only if the car is presenting a high-speed misfire should you have to worry about forking out for a replacement control unit. Carburettor-fed cars may suffer from problems with their auto-choke, which can stick on, but this is relatively easily rectified. The Pierburg 2E2 Carburettor can be a pain to set up, and many examples have been converted to Weber carburettor.

TRANSMISSION

Gearboxes are robust, coming in both four and five-speed varieties, although the synchromesh on the latter is weaker.  Worn shaft bearings can result in an annoying transmission whine, but this is not a sign that the final drive has broken up. You should check for leaks around the driveshaft seals, as well as ensuring the front driveshaft gaiters are free from stone damage. If they haven’t been renewed for a while they may have become brittle, allowing lubricant to escape. Finally, if the clutch itself feels stiff when you activate it, that is not necessarily a reason to worry – this is a trait common to older Audis and doesn’t mean the clutch is faulty.

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

Suspension is typical Audi, with struts and coil springs at the front and dead axle at the rear, located by trailing arms and Panhard rods. Front top mounts can be prone to wearing out, along with front wishbone bushes- particularly on the larger engine cars. These are a relatively straight forward DIY job with the necessary tools, and specialists can provide these parts for around £8 each (top mounts) and £4 each (wishbone bushes – 2 per side). Check the rear brakes are working as expected – drum brakes on the rear use a load compensating valve located close to the offside rear wheel. Replacement of the brake lines can prove tricky when trying to fit the pipes into this.

INTERIOR

Higher-spec models came with a raft of extras such as a sunroof, electric windows and central locking, the condition of which is worth taking into account before buying. Replacement electrical parts are available but can be expensive if they are only available from Audi themselves. Interior trim is difficult to obtain, and seat bolsters (particularly drivers side) can sag or wear through. If anything is required then sourcing a donor vehicle would be your best bet though. Thankfully little goes wrong with these old 80s however, so you shouldn’t necessarily let a few niggles be a deal-breaker.

VERDICT

The answer to your question would seem to be in the affirmative. If you can look past the slightly staid exterior, the 80 is actually quite an appealing prospect. If you compare it to an equivalent BMW 3 Series then it just makes so much sense, offering as it does the same Germanic virtues as its Bavarian rival, but costing a whole lot less due to it’s somewhat dour image. Maintenance and repair falls into the relatively simple bracket, most mechanical parts are readily available and there are ious clubs just waiting for you to join. Most of all, they’re actually getting quite rare in B2 guise, so if you’re looking to drive something a little bit different then the Audi 80 could well be the car for you.

AUDI 100 COUPÉ REVIEW

The Audi 100 Coupé makes for a hugely underrated gem. Here's why...

When was the last time you saw a C1-series Audi 100 Coupé S? Not recently, we’d bet. Less than 3200 made it onto the UK market and, of those, fewer than 50 are thought to have survived. In terms of rarity, this is up there with the Iso Grifo and Aston Martin DBS it so closely resembles.

It matches the Grifo and DBS in terms of lounge-lizard looks, too. Back in 1973, when the car in our photos was first registered, it was considered to be little more than an overpriced Volkswagen lookalike, but today the car has matured into a svelte, hunkered-down GT that carries with it more than a whiff of 1960s Mustang. Simply put, it’s absolutely stunning, especially with our test example’s vivid metallic blue paint and delicate chrome. 

Enough gawping. We need to go for a drive. Grasp the substantial chrome door handle, thumb the equally jumbo-sized push-button beneath and haul open the large, heavy door before stepping down into a world of 1970s Teutonic splendour.

Sink into the vast blue driver’s seat and pause awhile to drink in the details the almost comically huge steering wheel, the wood trim that calls to mind the teak you used to get on ’70s music centres, the Size 10 organ pedal throttle, and the quartet of green-on-black dials garnished with bright orange needles. Push the ignition key into the slot to the left of the steering column and the 1.9-litre fourcylinder engine coughs into life before settling into a slightly offbeat thrum that carries a vague timbre of the quattro’s trademark fivecylinder burble that would follow years later.

Then you go to snap your seatbelt into place, and puzzle over the apparently broken set-up missing its metal buckle. The penny drops…the Germans did things differently back then. Instead of a buckle, you loop the belt into a snap-jaw mechanism bolted to the floor. Well, it’s better than nothing…    The gearshift is one of few chinks in the 100’s armour – the throw is very long and rather vague, and each gear hits home with an indistinct slush rather than a rifle-bolt click – but the 1.9-litre ‘four’ is a little honey that punches well above its weight.

The long-winded gearbox takes the sporting edge off the car, but the engine delivers a hardedged engine note as the revs rise, and there’s an impressive amount of feedback through that Ark Royal tiller of a steering wheel.

Handling is on the soft side, but there is an almost boundless supply of grip. The rearwheel drive chassis feels surprisingly lively, given that it’s a simple live axle; no doubt the rear end becomes quite entertaining in the wet.
As a consummate cruiser, however, the Audi impresses, despite its lack of a fifth gear. While 118lb ft of torque doesn’t sound like much, it comes on song at a relatively lowly 3500rpm, meaning motorway overtakes rarely require a drop down into a lower gear. 

Audi 100 Trivia

• Just over 30,600 100 Coupés were sold during the C1’s production cycle. Its UK price at launch was a whopping £2418.
• All 100 Coupés were fitted with an advanced (for the time) brake stabilisation system that claimed to eliminate skids and unruly pulling to one side.
• There is a UK club dedicated specifically to the Audi 100 Coupé S.
• It is generally agreed that cars built up to 1973 used a higher grade of steel than those built from 1974 onwards.
• The 1.9-litre engine in well-maintained cars routinely covers more than 100,000 miles without a rebuild, with 150,000-milers by no means unheard of.