Austin-Healey

AUSTIN-HEALEY SPRITE REVIEW

Proving that less is more, the original Austin-Healey Sprite arguably started the trend for low-budget sports cars. We look into buying one today...
 

The original ‘Frogeye’ Sprite was a cheap and cheerful mass-produced sporting convertible that was also tremendous fun. Cheeky looks - the headlamps were initially planned to be retractable, until BMC realised that this innovative feature would put the price up – covered up the fact that underneath the skin it was mainly a blend of Austin A35 and Morris Minor. However, the humble ingredients were still capable of providing entertaining levels of performance. The 948 cc OHV engine (coded 9CC) was upgraded with twin 1.25 inch SU carburettors, giving 43bhp. The BMC Competition Department entered Austin-Healey Sprites in major international races and rallies, their first major success coming when John Sprinzel and Willy Cave won their class on the 1958 Alpine Rally. Prices today are out of all proportion to the Sprite’s budget origins, but they remain popular with sports car enthusiasts.

Despite the diminutive proportions of the Frogeye, even tall or bulky drivers can get comfortable behind the wheel pretty easily. Given that it weighs little more than half a ton, it is amazingly agile and this leads to the feeling the car is quicker than you’d expect. The 948cc engine revs freely up to about 400rpm, but begins to feel a little strained after that. The steering is light and impressively responsive too, while the non-servo-assisted brakes are positive and the gearchange is reasonably precise. The bodyshell is surprisingly rigid and the ride, although a little on the frim side, is not too jarringly firm. It gives both driver and passenger intimate knowledge of every surface irregularity along the way. At the same time however, there is a feeling of manoeuvrability control. Eventually the bumps fade away, to be replaced by a fiendish desire to slice around everything else blocking your way. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

1958 Austin-Healey Sprite

Engine                                    948cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  45bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 52lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  20.9sec

Consumption                            34mpg 

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Frogeye was one of the first sports cars to sport monococque construction, so clearly any major body rot is not just going to be unsightly – potentially, it can be a complete deal-breaker.

As such, as well as all the usual places – arches, bonnet lip, etc. – check all the reinforcing box sections around the bulkheads, sills and jacking points – if there’s more frilly ferrous oxide here than metal, then only truly dedicated DIY restorers should proceed.

Close inspection of the enormous one-piece front is a must, too the entire front end – bonnet, wings and front panel – lifts in one piece to afford access to the engine, so it’s regularly put under a lot of structural stress. Ensure the rear hinges and surrounding metalwork are sound.

 

ENGINE

 

One of the major parameters for the Frogeye was always affordability – both for the buyer and for the manufacturer. To wit, the engine that nestles beneath that grinning front is a derivation of BMC’s venerable 948cc engine, which also did sterling service in the Austin A35 and Morris Minor.

And that’s good news, because engines don’t come much simpler than this. Performance was racked up to a dizzying 43bhp by the addition of twin SU carbs, although it’s not unheard of for Frogeyes to end up with a tuned Mini engine of some description – the 1275cc is the most popular – under the bonnet. This isn’t a problem in itself, although anything other than complete adherence to originality can have a detrimental effect on values.

Being of such simple design, major problems on well-maintained cars are rare, although the causes of any of the usual warning signs – blue smoke on the overrun, uneven idling, persistent cutting out, reluctance to run smoothly when hot – are usually very easy to trace.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The Frogeye’s steering and suspension were also lifted from the Morris Minor. Quarter elliptic rear springs and lever arm dampers don’t sound terribly exciting, but the addition of an upper radius arm above the rear axle virtually eliminated axle tramp. Anything other than ultra-alert handling, then, suggests that something is amiss.

Leaf spring breakage is common, as is rust both where the radius arms attach and around the spring location boxes on the rear bulkhead. Up front, worn damper bearings and kingpin bushes (these latter as a result of indifferent greasing) should always start alarm bells ringing.

Elsewhere, the differential is prone to oil leaks and halfshafts have a habit of breaking. The rack-and pinion steering is reassuringly robust, though, with split gaiters the only known recurring problem.

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through.


INTERIOR

There’s not a great deal to the Frogeye’s interior, and while wear and tear to seats, carpets, etc. is inevitable, excellent aftermarket parts back-up means replacements – while hardly cheap – are reasonably plentiful.

Expect most of the wear to centre on the area behind the seats exterior appearances notwithstanding, the Frogeye isn’t actually fitted with an opening bootlid, so luggage must be hauled in and out via the open area immediately behind the seats. Inevitably, then, wear and tear is accelerated here, although the fact that full replacement carpet sets are readily available for less than £120 means this isn’t a huge problem. Elsewhere, wavering speedometer needles are common, but not the end of the world, although replacing a failed water temperature gauge can get expensive as the dial is combined with the oil pressure gauge, thereby effectively doubling the re-wiring job.

 

OUR VERDICT

There isn’t much that isn’t available new for the Austin-Healey Sprite. That said, if work is required, then restoration costs can quickly mount up. The simple construction of the car allows for a thorough inspection to be made of a prospective purchase before you actually part with your hard earned cash, so there is no reason for you to get your fingers burned.

Running costs are also very low – the road tax is free and insurance should be cheap too. Whatever you buy – and as long as you don’t pay over the odds – you’ll be having a whale of a time from the first moment you drive it. There’s not much that can touch the Frogeye for simplicity, even after more than half a century has passed since it first saw the light of day. So what are you waiting for?

AUSTIN-HEALEY 3000 REVIEW

With a lusty, six-cylinder soundtrack, the Austin-Healey 3000 is one of the most evocative British classics around.

 

When the Austin-Healey 3000 was launched, externally at least it was unchanged from the outgoing 100-6. The major changes were mechanical, with the C-series engine growing in size to 2912cc. The 3000 MkII arrived in March 1961, with some detail changes and boasting a three-carburettor set-up, while the MkIII followed in March 1964. The last of the Big Healeys was built in 1967, but all variants remain popular today.

VITAL STATISTICS

1959 Austin-Healey 3000 MkI

Engine                                    2912cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  124bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 162lb ft@2700rpm

Top speed                                114mph

0-60mph                                  11.4sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Examine bodywork very carefully – it consists of many overlapping compound curves and that celebrated swage line takes a skilled body man hours to get right. Any misalignment where it crosses from door skin to wing will be obvious – experienced Healey restorers usually repair a door rather than re-skin it, in order to preserve the swage.

Also thoroughly assess the front metalwork around the grille and bonnet for any damage. This ‘shroud’ is made from sections of alloy that are butt-welded and planished together, meaning it is very easily damaged, not to mention a prime candidate for being bodged back together with filler.

Chassis rails should appear straight when viewed along their length from the front of the car – any rippling or waviness suggests past accident damage. If the damage is severe enough, a replacement chassis may be required, so be wary. Chassis outriggers often suffer with corrosion. They support long sills, creating a perimeter chassis that is equally susceptible to rust, as is the entire bottom half of the bodywork.

ENGINE

 

Big Healey engines are modified Austin saloon units, meaning they’re solid lumps that last forever when properly maintained. Bored out to 2912cc for the 3000, the C-series exhibits typically 1950s characteristics – high oil consumption of up to a pint per 250 miles is common. Numerous minor oil leaks are also par for the course, but easily lived with until re-build time comes around. You’re ideally looking for oil pressure of 50psi when out on the open road, falling to 10-15psi at a hot idle. 

RUNNING GEAR

Steering boxes can wear badly, leading to poor steering performance – a re-build will usually improve things immeasurably. If the steering feels vague when on the move, try jacking the front of the car up and rocking each wheel top and bottom. The problem could be down to worn kingpins, which need greasing at every service. Suspension is also derived from contemporary Austin saloons, with double wishbones, coil springs and anti-roll bar up front, a live axle suspended on leaf springs out back, with a Panhard rod to keep side sway in check. The system was modified for the 3000 MkIII Phase II, replacing the Panhard rod with twin radius arms. The bushes in these can produce creaking noises, so keep an ear out on the test drive. 

INTERIOR

Today most owners favour all leather if a re-trim is required. If the interior is scruffy, it is possible to buy trim sets and seat covers, but if you bite the bullet and get your wallet out, you’ll see better results by farming the job out to a trim shop.

Hoods were originally made from Everflex vinyl, but some cars have now been fitted with mohair or double-duck instead.

OUR VERDICT

In common with many classics of the same era, you buy an Austin-Healey 3000 on its specification. Make sure it has the right parts for its age, as many have been messed around with over the years. Also, many 3000s have been re-imported to the UK, so be sure that any modifications have been carried out well – particularly right-hand drive conversions. With A-H specialists throughout the country, there’s no shortage of help – the only thing holding you back will be the size of your wallet.

AUSTIN-HEALEY 100/4 REVIEW

In the shadow of its younger brothers for many years, we reckon it’s time the 100/4 and its derivatives stepped into the light...

The first of the big Healeys was launched in 1952 at the London Motor Show after being developed by Donald Healey, who based his car on the Austin A90 Atlantic. Luckily for Healey, the new sports car impressed the Austin hierarchy, which immediately began building the car at Longbridge, alongside the A90. 

It used the same 2660cc four-cylinder engine as the Atlantic, but its svelte, aerodynamic shape allowed it to achieve 100mph – hence the ‘100’ moniker. 100M and 100S (above) versions are most desired, and 14,634 examples were built, before being replaced by the 100/6 in 1956.     

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Healey 100/4

Engine                                    2660cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  90bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 144lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                109mph

0-60mph                                  11.1sec

Consumption                           30mpg

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It is much more cost effective to repair or replace worn mechanicals than it is to correct poor bodywork, so it pays to buy the best example you can afford. 

It is also a good idea to consult a specialist before making a purchase, as the bodywork of the 100/4 is notoriously complex and known for hiding rot well. Being a soft top, the first thing you should check for is water ingress – make sure the carpets are dry and not discoloured. Inspect the foot wells, checking for any signs of rust, damp or shoddy repairs. Make sure you also check where the footwell meets the sills, before getting under the car to double-check the outer sills. Any signs of crustiness here should be taken as a warning sign – the inner sill is likely to be in much worse condition. Be suspicious of freshly applied underseal – it can be used to hide rot.

While checking the sills, take a look at the condition of the doors – they can be prone to rusting along the bottom. Even minor rust here can be a very expensive fix. Moving under the car again, make sure the front chassis rails are in good condition, especially where they meet the shroud. The boot floor can also be a weak point, so remember to lift the carpet and take a good look. 

 

ENGINE

Early BN1 models were fitted with exactly the same 2660cc four-cylinder engine as the Austin A90, mated to a three-speed manual gearbox. 100M models came on stream in 1955 and employed a cold air box, high-lift camshaft and higher compression ratio.  

Overall, these engines are incredibly tough and are capable of covering huge mileages, but a rebuild will be required eventually. Water has a habit of seeping between the head and block, so check the oil filler for signs of mayonnaise. Ideally, you’ll want this problem to have been addressed already – check for evidence in the service file. Ensure you check the oil level as well, as these engines are notoriously thirsty, sometimes using as much as one pint in only 250 miles. Listen for any knocks or clanging noises – it should run quietly and smoothly. Water channels in the engine are also prone to silting, and the same goes for the radiator. Fitting an electric fan can disguise overheating problems – best to look for prior proof of an engine strip to sort the problem.  

 

RUNNING GEAR

The 1950s steering box can be labour intensive to keep in fine form; quizzing the owner can often tell you more about how it has been cared for than a history file ever will.

It needs to be regularly topped up, and any vagueness can mean that an expensive rebuild is required. Don’t expect modern handling, though. 

On the test drive, pay particular attention to how the car rides. Sagging springs can make the car very low at the rear, while bushes and dampers tend to wear out quickly. If the ride is crashy or sloppy, you may need to budget for replacements. Polybushes are more expensive than you might think and can be tricky to fit.  


INTERIOR

All original seats will be leather, but most will have been retrimmed at this stage. Originality is prized, providing the condition matches. Leather can dry out easily, so look for signs that it has been fed and treated well over the years. Any damp seeping in through the roof can play havoc here, so again it is vital to check that the hood is sound. The seats can be uncomfortable, despite the Healey’s reputation for long distance touring. 

There isn’t too much to worry about on the electrics side of things – just check everything works. 

OUR VERDICT

An early Austin-Healey makes fantastic financial sense, with values sure to rise as the years roll by. When economists talk about classic cars being better than money in the bank people immediately think ‘E-type’ – but should consider a 100/4. Investment aside, a big Healey is a beautiful car with rock solid mechanicals that is endowed with beauty and proportions that are the envy of other classic cars. It’s the sort of car that your other half will fall in love with. 

AUSTIN-HEALEY FROGEYE SPRITE REVIEW

The car that went on to spawn generations of MG Midgets is now one of the most valuable examples of the breed. We assess one as a classic buy today...

It’s a little-known fact that the singlemost striking element of the Austin-Healey Sprite Mk1 – which gave the car its nick-name, in fact – was never intended to be there. Where the production car’s bulging headlights garnered it the world-famous ‘Frogeye’ moniker, BMC actually wanted the sort of flip-up headlights that would eventually appear on the Porsche 928. Budget constraints, however, saw them consigned to the cutting floor – and a legend was born.

VITAL STATISTICS

AUSTIN-HEALEY ‘FROGEYE’ SPRITE MK1

 

Engine                                     948cc/4-cyl/OHV 

Power (bhp@rpm)                   43bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                  52lb/ft@3300rpm

Top speed                                 83mph

0-60mph                                   21sec

Consumption                            43mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The Frogeye was one of the first sports cars to sport monococque construction, so clearly any major body rot is not just going to be unsightly – potentially, it can be a complete deal-breaker.

As such, as well as all the usual places – arches, bonnet lip, etc. – check all the reinforcing box sections around the bulkheads, sills and jacking points – if there’s more frilly ferrous oxide here than metal, then only truly dedicated DIY restorers should proceed.

Close inspection of the enormous one-piece front is a must, too: the entire front end – bonnet, wings and front panel – lifts in one piece to afford access to the engine, so it’s regularly put under a lot of structural stress. Ensure the rear hinges and surrounding metalwork are sound. 

 

ENGINE

 

One of the major parameters for the Frogeye was always affordability – both for the buyer and for the manufacturer. To wit, the engine that nestles beneath that grinning front is a derivation of BMC’s venerable 948cc engine, which also did sterling service in the Austin A35 and Morris Minor.

And that’s good news, because engines don’t come much simpler than this. Performance was racked up to a dizzying 43bhp by the addition of twin SU carbs, although it’s not unheard of for Frogeyes to end up with a tuned Mini engine of some description – the 1275cc is the most popular – under the bonnet. This isn’t a problem in itself, although anything other than complete adherence to originality can have a detrimental effect on values.

Being of such simple design, major problems on well-maintained cars are rare, although the causes of any of the usual warning signs – blue smoke on the overrun, uneven idling, persistent cutting out, reluctance to run smoothly when hot – are usually very easy to trace.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The Frogeye’s steering and suspension were also lifted from the Morris Minor. Quarter elliptic rear springs and lever arm dampers don’t sound terribly exciting, but the addition of an upper radius arm above the rear axle virtually eliminated axle tramp. Anything other than ultra-alert handling, then, suggests that something is amiss.

Leaf spring breakage is common, as is rust both where the radius arms attach and around the spring location boxes on the rear bulkhead. Up front, worn damper bearings and kingpin bushes (these latter as a result of indifferent greasing) should always start alarm bells ringing.

Elsewhere, the differential is prone to oil leaks and halfshafts have a habit of breaking. The rack-and-pinion steering is reassuringly robust, though, with split gaiters the only known recurring problem.


INTERIOR

 

There’s not a great deal to the Frogeye’s interior, and while wear and tear to seats, carpets, etc. is inevitable, excellent aftermarket parts back-up means replacements – while hardly cheap – are reasonably plentiful.

Expect most of the wear to centre on the area behind the seats: exterior appearances notwithstanding, the Frogeye isn’t actually fitted with an opening bootlid, so luggage must be hauled in and out via the open area immediately behind the seats. Inevitably, then, wear and tear is accelerated here, although the fact that full replacement carpet sets are readily available for less than £120 means this isn’t a huge problem.

Elsewhere, wavering speedometer needles are common, but not the end of the world, although replacing a failed water temperature gauge can get expensive as the dial is combined with the oil pressure gauge, thereby effectively doubling the re-wiring job.

OUR VERDICT

Not for rarity, that’s for sure – only the run-out 1500 shifted more examples than the Frogeye. No, you buy a Frogeye for its laugh-out-loud handling and cheeky looks.

The former is dependant on the suspension and monococque being in good order, but the latter comes part of the package, irrespective of condition – those lights and that cheeky grille grin are near-impossible to resist.