AUDI COUPÉ REVIEW

Launched in 1981, and closely related to the groundbreaking Quattro, here’s a sporting choice that’s still temptingly cheap.

The Audi Coupé was a welcome new addition to the UK new car price lists in March 1981. Its slightly upscale price of £7475 might have put it in direct competition with more powerful rivals, such as the 3.0-litre Ford Capri and BMW 323i – but with its Quattro-esque styling, and all the kudos that came with it, and the whiff of imported exclusivity that was still attached to Audi in the early 1980s, here was a car that offered a unique set of qualities in the coupé battlefield.

Heart of the Coupé’s appeal was its off-beat, non-turbo five-cylinder engine, which originally was available in 1921cc carburetted form, developing 115bhp. You either loved its warbling soundtrack or you were disturbed by it.

The range was quickly developed in two directions – in 1983, a more potent 2.2-litre 136bhp five-pot was introduced, and the following year, arrival of the facelifted model was marked by the addition of an 1.8-litre entry level. Improvements included new bumpers, and a softer, more aerodynamic grille to complement its new higher quality dashboard and switchgear.

Also new in ‘84 was arrival of the four-wheel drive Quattro version – and that proved highly popular in the UK, despite its high price. The Coupé remained on sale until 1988, by which time an impressive 174,687 had been built.

VITAL STATISTICS

(GT5E)

Engine     2226cc/5-cyl/OHC

Power      136bhp@5700rpm

Torque     137lb ft@3500rpm

Maximum speed 120mph

0-60mph9.1sec

Fuel consumption   26-34mpg

Transmission        FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Four cylinders good

The 8V 112bhp 1.8-litre Audi Coupé’s engine was donated from the Volkswagen Golf GTI, and is, therefore, a well known quantity. It’s strong and well respected, and as long as the cambelt is changed every four years or 40,000 miles, and the oil changes have been religiously adhered to on at least an annual basis, don’t be afraid of odometer readings of more than 150,000.

Five cylinders better

Like the four-cylinder version, the top of the range Coupés prove strong and reliable over huge mileages. They are sensitive to regular oil changes, and if the hydraulic tappets are noisy, that’s a sign it’s been less than rigorously maintained.  

Cooling critical

The five-cylinder Coupé has quite a small side-mounted radiator, and cooling capacity can be marginal. Make sure there are no signs of previous overheating, and that the fan cuts in at temperature. Also, it’s advised to do a full coolant change at least once every two years, as the waterways can clog up. Also water pumps aren’t that long-lived – five years on average. 

Corrosion is a killer

Unlike later galvanised Audis, the Coupé can rot like an Alfasud on a trip to Blackpool. Vulnerable areas are the boot floor, thanks to a leaking bootlid, the windscreen surround, and there can be issues with the front strut tops, too. Later models have plastic sill extensions, so check closely for hidden grot behind them. 

Quattro maladies

The four-wheel drive system deserves a buying guide all to itself, and although it’s rugged and long-lived, it’s not infallable. Watch out for whining differentials, and driveline clonks – these are easy tell-tales that all is not well. Walk away if there’s uneven tyre wear, or mismatched brands are fitted.

Don’t get caught short

The main concern with these cars is that so many parts are simply no longer available. So don’t shrug off a cracked headlamp or bumper, because you’ll be searching hard for a replacement. The same is true inside – and although most switchgear and fittings are reliable, they are nigh-on irreplaceable. Seat trim is the same – it wears out on the bolsters and you can’t replace it. 

OUR VERDICT

Forgetting the whole ‘Fire up the Quattro’ phenomenom, which is ancient history now, here’s a car that combines fabulous oh-so 1980s styling, rugged mechanicals, charismatic power units, the option of four-wheel drive, and a surprising amount of interior room.

If you’re expecting sports car thrills, then be prepared to be slightly disappointed. The Coupé’s steering is a little on the remote side, and the handling feels a bit saloon-like (unsurprising, considering it’s so closely related to the 80). And even in the most powerful 2.2-litre fuel injected form, none of them is particularly quick – instead you could be generous and say ‘brisk’. 

Prices of good Coupés are picking up after too many years in secondhand-land, but they are still good value compared with the more exotic (in classic terms) Ford Capri or Volkswagen Scirocco. And as for ownership, it could be argued that the more mature Audi trumps both of those alternatives.

Our pick of the range would definitely be a pre-facelift 2.2-litre GT 5E, although the later interior is a far nicer place to sit. But any one will give you many years of classic enjoyment.

TVR TUSCAN V6 REVIEW

The first TVR to bear the Tuscan name may be as pretty as it is rare, but it packs a serious punch. We consider what to look for when buying one of these powerful sports cars today

Parts-bin trim includes tail lights from a Mk II Ford Cortina

The long overdue replacement for the Grantura caused quite a stir. Previous models had never packed anything more powerful than a Coventry Climax, Ford or BMC four-cylinder engine. So finding a 195bhp 4.7-litre V8 (more than 270bhp on some US-market cars) that could push the little car all the way to 155mph and, on later models, a 136bhp V6 that could top 125mph, proved too much of a handful for some buyers, and the Vixen that replaced it reverted to four-cylinder power. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    2994cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  134bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 173lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                125mph

0-60mph                                   8.3sec

Consumption                           N/A

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Tuscan uses a GRP body that is obviously impervious to rust, but crazing or cracking in the gelcoat is a sure sign of previous accident damage that hasn’t been repaired properly – quite a common problem on these often tricky- to-handle little cars, and especially the V8. The tubular steel chassis can rot with the best of them, though, so make sure you take a peek underneath.

Build quality was never a strong point with these cars, and while most survivors are likely have been subjected to a proper restoration by now, check for mile-wide panel gaps and missing trim. This latter model isn’t quite so much of a problem, as many of the trim items are shared with other, more mainstream cars – rear lights are shared with the Mk II Ford Cortina, for example.

ENGINE

Tuscan power came courtesy of some seriously potent engines, and both the V6 and V8 are extremely tough units that can withstand huge mileages with proper maintenance.

The 4.7-litre (289ci) Windsor V8 is closely related to the engine used in early Mustangs, and is as bulletproof as any other small-block V8. The V6, meanwhile, is Ford’s familiar and easy to work on 3.0-litre Essex, as seen in both the Zodiac and Capri among many other models. Both engines have plenty of tuning potential and huge parts back-up.

Common faults on maltreated cars include worn valve guides and/or piston rings (look out for oily exhaust smoke). Poor or erratic idling is often as a result of a damaged distributor or contact breaker points, while excessive under-bonnet heat can cause fuel vaporisation, making an aftermarket electric fan
a wise investment.

RUNNING GEAR

One area where the V6 and V8 cars do differ noticeably is in terms of their brakes. Where the V6 used front discs and rear drums, the V8’s greater power warranted better stopping power in the guise of all-round disc brakes.

Make sure that the suspension is up to scratch, too – even the rare longer wheelbase models can oversteer seemingly at will in unpractised hands, so tired dampers and worn track-rod ends will simply make matters worse. Get any prospective purchase up onto a lift and have a good poke around. Better still, get a marque expert to do it for you.

Gearboxes have proved strong over the years, although any car that has seen hillclimb or track day use may well be suffering from weakened synchromesh by now, with the upshift into second particularly prone to related crunching.

INTERIOR

This is where you need to be particularly vigilant when assessing a prospective purchase, as the TVR trim build quality has never entirely inspired confidence.

One of the biggest issues concerns cabin ventilation, which can be average-to-poor on both models, but particularly problematic on the V8s, which generate an enormous amount of heat. It was a problem when the cars were new, and short of expensive and/or Heath Robinson-ish attempts to remedy the situation by previous owners, you’ll probably just have to put up with it.

These cars are very popular with the motor sport fraternity, so cars in wholly original condition aren’t always easy to find, especially given their general rarity. If a car has spent time on-track, then bucket seats, re-trimmed dashboards, different steering wheels and similar modifications may compromise
a cosy cockpit, so do make sure you fit inside!

OUR VERDICT

This era of Tuscan was still under the remit of TVR legend Martin Lilley, so they’re considered among the best of the breed by marque aficionados. They’re also very pretty, very rare (just 174 models were sold from 1967-1971) and pack a ferocious punch. The thunderous V8s, in particular, are almost absurdly fast, if prone to snap oversteer.

VAUXHALL 14/40 REVIEW

The new 14/40 2.3-litre 'M' Type of 1922 was introduced alongside the 4-litre 'D' Type touring car and the 4 1/2-litre E-Type 30/98. In its initial form, the 14/40 was essentially a modern design with detachable cylinder head, three-speed in-unit gearbox, single plate clutch and both pairs of brakes on the rear wheels only. Vauxhalls were intended to be enjoyed by owners who simply enjoyed serious motoring in well-engineered and capable cars.

VAUXHALL 30/98 REVIEW

After the first World War when the Vauxhall 30/98 resumed production, there simply was nothing else on the road that was faster in 1920. Initially introduced as the E-type with a side-valve 4,500cc engine and just rear wheel brakes, the later OE type had a 4.25-litre engine, the swift introduction of front wheel brakes soon afterwards contributing more worthwhile braking capacity to console the faster driver. The king of all sporting vintage cars and fairly described as a gentleman's fast touring car, a total of 111 of the Vauxhall chassis were produced in 1924, the most for any year the model was produced. Paradoxically however, three out of every five produced were sold in Australia.

VAUXHALL 23/60 REVIEW

Synonymous with high quality touring cars and the finest sporting cars, Vauxhall was on a par with Bentley and Sunbeam. In 1922 a new detachable cylinder head was introduced with dramatic improvements for the new OD and OE models, including pushrod overhead valves. The 23/60 is a delightful and practical tourer, of impeccable Edwardian ancestry, surviving in production until 1926 when the Luton company was taken over by General Motors. The Kington tourer body was offered on both the D and OD models, a style not dissimilar to the Velox 30/98 body, but more spacious, at 10' 10'' wheelbase, to the 30/98's 9' 9 1/2'', with 65mph from the 4-litre engine which developed a respectable 60bhp at a leisurely 2000rpm.

VAUXHALL CAVALIER REVIEW

It's often forgotten just how important a place the Cavalier MkI has in Vauxhall's history. Along with the company's other 1975 debutante, the Chevette, it went a long way to restore the Luton company's reputation after years of being branded as a maker of cars that could do nothing well other than rust. Of course, that wasn't true - but bad reputations are hard to shift. These thinly-disguised Opels proved dependable in service and good to drive, and thanks to a nice mix of British and German design, they now make appealing and well thought of classics.
 
VITAL STATISTICS
Vauxhall Cavalier MkI (2.0GSL)
Engine 1979cc/4-cyl/cam-in-head
Power 100bhp@5400rpm
Torque 100lb ft@3800rpm
Top Speed 110mph
0-60mph 10.0sec
Fuel consumption 24-29mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
 
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK
Rust killed most of these, and despite being more resistant than the previous generation of Vauxhalls, there are still plenty of corrosion hot spots to look for. First, check the sills - both inner and outers can rot - and also look closely at the jacking points, which are also vulnerable. The floorpan is also susceptible, so look out for damp carpets, and an overall musty smell inside. The front wings can suffer, inside and out, at the joining seam, but that will be obvious, even from 10 paces. Finally pay close attention to the battery tray under the bonnet, and the inside of the A-pillar, which can rot, compromising the strength of the car. Cosmetic rot will be much easier to spot, but still costly to deal with, so scabby doors or wheelarches can lead to further heartbreak.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX
The 1256cc engine, available from 1977, is a doddle to maintain, and aside from getting rattly (easily sorted with a set of feeler gauges), there's not much to worry about. Watch for rusty core plugs and seized water pumps. The cam-in-head engines (1.6- and 1.9-litres from launch, 2.0-litres from 1978) are also tough, and easy to work on, although are known for developing oil leaks thanks to poor seals, pose few problems. Carburettors aren't brilliant, and most will have been changed by now. Also, automatic choke mechanisms get sticky, and most will have been changed by now, which means some cars will now have the aftermarket manual chokes. Parts are all readily available.

RUNNING GEAR
Not much to report here. Gearboxes are tough, but diffs can get whiney with high miles, while the springs, dampers and axles are all tough and superbly engineered.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
To be fair, there's not a lot to go wrong with the Cavalier's electrics - wiper stalks can fail, as can in the instruments (thanks to voltage meter failure), and it's not unknown for the heater blower and windscreen wipers to start playing up - this is easily spotted as the fuses will start to blow increasingly regularly. All are simple DIY fixes. Interior trim and parts are generally no longer available new, but aren't too hard to find online secondhand.
 
OUR VERDICT
A good Cavalier is still a joy to drive, and a superb reminder of how simple life was for professional drivers 40 years ago. They're still relatively cheap, but with numbers still thinning, that can't remain the case for much longer.

VAUXHALL FE VICTOR REVIEW

GM’s attempt at a large family saloon to suit fleet and private buyers fell short of expectation. But that’s no reason not to love it

Produced by General Motors from 1957 to 1976, the Vauxhall Victor was introduced to replace the Wyvern model and became Britain's most exported car.
With a body style derived from the '57 Chevrolet Bel Air, the original Victor was dubbed the F series with a production of more than 390,000 units. 
The FB ran from 1961 to 1964 but only achieved sales of 328,000 vehicles after it faced fierce competition from Pontiac, Oldsmobile and Buick in the US.
The FC (101) took over the Victor reins from the FB in 1964, and sold nearly 240,000 in its three-year life. Curved side windows - a first for Vauxhall - opened up interior space, while prominent chrome sunk into the front bumper hinted at a US influence at Luton.
Released in 1967, the FD was first launched at the British Motor Show but suffered from poor on-road performance and durability. Consequently, only 198,000 units were produced until it was superseded by the FE in March 1972. 
Vauxhall's FE was the last car created under Luton’s autonomy from German, Opel-based designs. It’s large, spacious, has a comfortable ride and a decent turn of pace. It’s transatlantic prow apes the Buick boat-tail Riviera while the rest of the hull could have come from the subtle pennings of a BMW designer – just check out the rear side-glass profile and C-pillar shape. They’re relatively easy to work on, and when they rot it’s honest rot. And they’re still cheap on the classic market, and as a second-classic or tow-bar equipped caravan hauler the 2279cc inclined inline four can’t be beaten for torque. Bill Blydenstein’s caravan-racing VX4/90 won the championship both times it was contested, and no one else would enter.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    2279cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  100bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 138lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                100mph

0-60mph                                  8.9sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual + Overdrive/3-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As with many of the 101’s peers, corrosion is your biggest enemy, despite Vauxhall’s Magic Mirror paint. The problem is that panels are a struggle to find and the curvy nature of the body makes seamless repairs very tricky. Floors, sills and wheelarches are obvious rot spots to check, but also look over the whole of the front wings and the lower section of the rears. Valances also suffer, so make sure you have a peek behind the chrome bumpers.
The orange blight also strikes around the windscreen aperture and the bulkhead – not easy areas to repair. The sills and front doors are shared with the PC Cresta and Viscount, though they’re not exactly blessed with an abundance of panels either. Exterior trim is nigh on impossible to source, so if you’re buying a project, its condition is important.

ENGINE

Fortunately, in best Vauxhall tradition, while the body may fall apart, the mechanicals are hardy and their simple nature makes them a great choice if you like to tinker at home. If the engine has clocked up 100,000 miles or more, you need to keep your eyes open for blue smoke as wear strikes. A full rebuild will cost around £1000, but it might be better to try and track down a good secondhand unit, which will be about £100. The VX4/90 has twin-carburettors and an aluminium, high-compression head, the latter making regular coolant changes important, so check for signs of water and oil mixing or for rust-coloured coolant.
Gearbox-wise, it’ll be obvious when a unit is worn as it’ll be very noisy. Gear selection issues on the three-speed are usually down to worn bushes on the linkage – not an expensive fix. The Powerglide automatics are rare, and you’re most likely to encounter a 4-speed floor shift. Rear axles can leak oil and will get very noisy very quickly if there’s no lubricant. Optionally from 1965 and standard fit from 1966, the VX4/90 had a limited slip differential, to ensure that you could lay down that entire 98lb ft of torque.

BRAKES

Steering is by recirculating ball, which means it isn’t the most accurate out there. Watch out for excessive play in the steering box, which certainly won’t help matters, and also keep an eye out for tight points as you go from lock to lock, in case someone has over-adjusted out any play. A replacement steering box won’t be easy to find.
Suspension is simple coil springs and wishbones up front, with leaf springs at the rear. Telescopic dampers can leak, springs can sag and worn bushes can cause nasty clunks. Front lower balljoints can wear, too. To avoid a nasty failure, jack the car up and use a pry bar to lift the wheel. A small amount of play is okay, but a significant amount means it’s replacement time.
Brakes are drum all-round for the Victor, with servo front discs on the VX4/90.

INTERIOR

Vinyl seats were standard fare, with individual front seats rather than a bench in the VX4/90. Cloth seats were optional and some were even specified with leather. Condition is everything as nothing is easily available, a situation not helped by almost annual tweaks. Electrics are fairly hardy, although you need to watch out for brittle wiring and dodgy earths causing components to fail.

OUR VERDICT

The FE is a marmite car. You love its ’70s style or hate it. Yet if you find a good one it’ll serve you well for years. They’re durable, strong and have ample space for five adults, as long as they’re in long trousers to avoid vinyl burns from those large Ambla seats. If you like cruising then a Victor has all you’ll need, while those looking for a car with hooligan attitude and the allure of 14" Rostyles will head straight to the twin-carbed VX4/90. These had standard-fit overdrive from ’72-’74, four-speed manual from ’74-’76 and a close-ratio Getrag five-speed gearbox in the final VX490 incarnation from 1977-’78. Lovers of straight-six power needn’t leave the room either, as the Ventora (and Victor 3300 estate until 1974) models featured plusher trim and more torque, though no more effective performance and (slightly) more ponderous handling. 

VAUXHALL VX220 REVIEW

The VX220 was screaming lunacy for a major manufacturer, but a great buy

Just clambering aboard is an experience, thanks to the small door opening and wide sill. That sets you up for an experience that is reassuringly old-school.

This is a car for driving, with few concessions to comfort. The steering is remarkably direct and full of feel, while the ride is firm but not jarring. Performance is extraordinary, especially on the Turbo. Cars of this era are so loaded up with safety kit that can blunt speed and handling. Not here – the 2.2 will race to 60mph in under six seconds. 

The unremarkable origins of the engines means that these cars are surprisingly docile and easy to drive around town. The reason that people indulge in track days soon becomes obvious though – it’s so hard to exploit the performance on public roads. Speed limits are reached in no time at all, and you’ll be keen to find roads free of traffic and other dangers.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  197bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 184lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                151mph

0-60mph                                  4.7sec

Consumption                            33mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

An HPi check is essential. An internet search gives plenty of options. A very large number of VX220s have been written off, but this can be for minor bodywork damage. The ‘clams’ that make up the front and rear bodywork can be very expensive to replace, though aftermarket options are now available. 

Check the low nose for stonechip damage. It’s very common and can be expensive to sort out properly. Blistering is possible on the body, usually on the doors or top of the rear clam. It’s a problem well known in owners circles and it is unsightly. It will require someone with glassfibre skills to put right. Many cars suffered this even when they were new and were repaired under warranty by Vauxhall dealers with varying degrees of success.

ENGINE

Engines are entirely run-of-the-mill, plucked from Vauxhall’s Vectra range, so parts are plentiful. The 2.2 uses a timing chain, so check for a rattle from start-up. They’re very tricky to replace with the engine in-situ but replacement every 60,000 miles is considered sensible. The Turbo uses a 2.0-litre engine with a timing belt, which should be replaced every four years or 40,000 miles. Check the water temperature on a test drive as water pumps can fail, causing overheating. They’re also very tricky to replace. On the Turbo, listen out for a ticking noise, which might be a cracked exhaust manifold. Engine mounts can wear badly, especially if the car has been driven hard. Replacements are around £30 each.

ELECTRICS

On a test drive, make sure the ABS light illuminates and then goes out as it should, and if possible, test that the ABS is functioning. The system fitted to most VXs is deemed a bit over zealous so some disable it – which may cause issues at MoT time.

RUNNING GEAR

Check the front-mounted radiator for damage and/or leaks and then see if you can check the wishbone mountings for the front suspension. Any damage here is very bad news as the aluminium main structure is not repairable. It’s very difficult to check thoroughly due to an extensive undertray, so check the tyres for unusual wear patterns.

The tyres are unique to the model and unlike the Elise, use 17-inch wheels all round. The 175-section front tyres are £140 each, while the rears can be as little as £90. Some fit aftermarket wheels for more choice – then fronts can cost just £60 each. The rear track control arm (or toe link) can suffer from seized balljoints. Failure is pretty catastrophic, so ask if they have been replaced, especially on a track car. An upgrade is available from Lotus specialists. Getting the geometry checked every few years is very wise.

BRAKES

Brake discs are off-the-shelf Vectra. Pad upgrades are considered wise, but the AP front calipers and Brembo rears tend to be reliable. They’re the same as the Elise. Some owners are tempted to fit sports exhaust systems. Check on the test drive that the result is not too harsh on the ears. 

OUR VERDICT

If you want a proper driver’s car, then the VX220 is about as good as it gets. Values seem lower than the equivalent Elise, which tells you a lot about badge snobbery. It isn’t a car you’d want to use everyday, but weekend fun is guaranteed. The only downside is that you may well find yourself booking track time to really get the best out of one. 

VAUXHALL VIVA HC REVIEW

In its time, the Vauxhall Viva HC was the most popular car to come out of Luton. And it’s still one of the most affordable...

Looking for some cheap fun? Then look no further. Few classics are more affordable than the Vauxhall Viva HC. Once seen on every street corner, Viva numbers have dwindled in recent years. But there are still some crackers out there waiting to be snapped up.

The HA Viva was the first Vauxhall to achieve a six-figure production run and, by the early 1970s, had easily become Vauxhall’s best-selling car ever. 

It helped that there was a version for everyone thanks to numerous engines, body styles and trim levels. But while the Firenza and Magnum get all the attention, the standard HC can be great fun thanks to its rear-wheel drive and ample tuning opportunities. Take a closer look and you’ll be amazed at how much fun you can have with even the most meagre of budgets. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1159-2279cc/4-cyl/OHV/OHC 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  49-112bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 88-150lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                88-100+mph

0-60mph                                  (1256cc)13.1sec

Consumption                            22-35mpg

 Gearbox                                    4-speed man/3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

It’ll come as no surprise that it’s corrosion which has killed off most Vivas. In typical 1970s fashion, these cars can rot spectacularly, so you need to check every square inch of bodywork for filler. Even if the car looks good at first glance, you must pay especially close attention to the rear wheelarches, front wings, shock absorber turrets and the A-pillars where they meet the windscreen – these are always the first areas to go, as are the inner wings by the headlamps and at the bonnet hinges. Early cars have ‘high-peak’ front wings at the forward edge, so check the car you are looking at is correct. 

ENGINE

Over its production run, Viva HC buyers could choose between five engines, starting with an 1159cc overhead-valve unit. Later came a 1256cc OHV powerplant, while a 1599cc OHC engine wsa available for the power hungry. From 1972, the 1599cc unit was replaced by 1759cc and 2279cc OHC lumps.

A good service will do wonders whatever engine is fitted. But even when in good nick, Viva powerplants are noisy. Although the 1256cc unit is stronger than the 1159cc unit, it isn’t as free-revving.

OHV units will see 60,000 miles as long as decent 20/50 oil has been put in every 3000 miles. Overhead cam units are stronger, though 1599cc and 1759cc versions should also have had a fresh belt within the past 20,000 miles. 2279cc versions are ‘safe’ if the belt breaks but the smaller ones aren’t. Beware long delays for oil pressure build-up as OHC oil pumps are scarce. 

Heater matrixes can leak, and all Vivas can be prone to hot-running with marginal cooling systems.

RUNNING GEAR

Most Vivas have a four-speed manual gearbox, although a few have a GM three-speed auto, although these are now ultra-rare. Each gearbox is reliable, though OHV four-speed boxes can whine like a milk float. Check auto transmission fluid to ensure it’s not black or dark brown. If it is, there’s a rebuild round the corner.

The two ball joints on each side of the front suspension can wear, the lower ones especially. Early HCs had drum brakes all round, with servo-assisted discs optional – post-1973 HCs and the SL90 featured front discs as standard. It’s worth fitting disc brakes to an early car, but bits are only available secondhand.

There are no self-adjusters on cars with front drums, so if they appear past their best it should just be a case of tweaking them manually. Incidentally, Girling and Lockheed parts were mixed and matched during production depending on who was on strike at the time, so having a Girling master cylinder doesn’t mean the front and/or rear brakes aren’t Lockheed.

INTERIOR

New trim is extinct and used bits are now scarce. The number of different variations doesn’t help, but it’s all fairly hard wearing, though pale dashtops can discolour and all can split. 

The electrical system is simple, though headlamp switches can fail.  Everything is available but headlamps are rare, costing £30-£40. Distributors wear quickly in early engines, as the oil pump neck into which the distributor spindle fits was offset, but in later engines it was centred. Problems occur when straight-slot dizzy’s are forced into offset oil pumps.

OUR VERDICT

With Viva values, you’re not spending enough money to get your fingers burned. Vauxhall made no bones about the fact that these cars were simply appliances to get from A to B, with economy being the most important thing. With cars being scrapped and banger-raced, they’re disappearing quickly. So if you’ve never got round to buying one, you might not have much time left.

VAUXHALL ASTRA GTE MK2 REVIEW

Desired, stolen, thrashed and crashed: the Astra GTE has now made it into the classic world

Choose a later GTE and you’ll get the impressive digital dashboard display. It works well and the 1980s graphics are a constant reminder of the car’s heyday. You can admire it while you sit in comfortable Recaro buckets.

All GTEs are brisk, but the 16v is positively scintillating. With 60mph coming up in less than eight seconds, you can certainly surprise much more modern cars, although the brakes and handling are likely to be pushed a bit too far. After a few high-speed stops, the brakes begin to suffer. 

Similarly, the handling is a bit of a struggle at speed. Understeer will kick in strongly if you try entering a bend too quickly, but the tail can snap out when you then ease off the throttle. Aftermarket goodies can aid handling, but this doesn’t mean you have to ‘slam’ the car into the ground. Overall, though, this is a very practical car that is always a pleasure to drive and is becoming a much less common sight on the roads and at shows.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  150bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 150lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed                                131mph

0-60mph                                  7.6sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Check the bodykit for damage and fitment, and check it isn’t hiding corrosion. Astras rot everywhere: the body kit can hide horrors. Check around the front suspension strut tops and the bulkhead – especially around the brake servo; any rot here should be an MoT failure and repairs are tricky. The steering rack can be ripped out of the bulkhead by the power, especially on the 16v. With the car stationary, go from lock to lock and see if the pedals move – if they do, walk away. Door locks may be repaired from ‘screwdrivering’ theft entries.

Check the sills and rear wheelarches. The extra trim here can make inspection difficult so you ideally need to get under the car. Rear arches are often bodged, but repair sections are available. While underneath, check the rear suspension mounting areas. Many an Astra is uneconomical to repair due to rust here. 

Get underneath the back end and check the rear bumper apron isn’t hiding rust, especially around the chassis. If a sports exhaust is fitted, check that it isn’t too loud and that you can live with the noise. The GTE has a different tailgate to other Astras; the wiper mounts directly on the glass above the rear spoiler.

ENGINE

The original powerplants were 1.8-litre or 2-litre four-cylinder 8v, but the real tyre-scorcher was the 2-litre 16v. Engine swaps are very common – it’s not something for purists, but if an upgrade has taken place, make sure it has been done well; messy wiring and bodged pipework are not good signs. Whatever the engine, watch for blue smoke from the exhaust which suggests worn internals. Camshafts can get clattery with age and neglect, and the timing belt should be changed every 40,000 miles or five years. 

Make sure your GTE is the genuine article and not simply a tarted-up Merit with a bodged engine swap. Check the VIN and engine numbers against the V5 for a start. Do they match? A genuine GTE should have a 43 VIN code prefix. The 16v has a much-modified bodyshell with a raised transmission tunnel and a full crossmember in front of the engine. 

RUNNING GEAR

Wheel, tyre and suspension modifications are common, so make sure the result isn’t an ill-handling mess – the right mods will improve the handling. Check the wheels for damage and the tyres for condition; a budget brand suggests penny-pinching. Make sure the braking is strong and even. The 16v has rear discs rather than the drums of the 8v.

INTERIOR

Examine the seat bolsters for damage and cigarette and ‘blim burns’ on seat fabrics. If the later digital dashboard is fitted, make sure it all works. Analogue dials could be specified even later in the GTE’s production life, so don’t be surprised if a digital dash is not fitted. Check the headlining for condition and make sure the electrical equipment is functioning. Electric windows get slow with age. Pre-1988 GTEs have fewer toys. All interior trim is hard to find.

The majority of GTEs were three-door hatchbacks, but a few were built as convertibles and there are a handful of five-door GTEs too. A desirable variant is the Champion of 1990, a 16v in deep metallic red with leather interior; only 500 were built.

OUR VERDICT

Vauxhall created a fine hot hatch with the GTE. The 115bhp 1.8-litre version is now very rare, as most people want the extra performance of later models. However, you still get more than 120mph and a 0-60mph time of just under 10 seconds. Don’t rule it out – especially as some might find the 150bhp 16v just a bit too lairy – it did expose the handling weaknesses of the car. The 123bhp 2-litre is a good compromise.

Vauxhalls always had engines that sounded pleasantly gruff, and they’re very tough, too. Tune-up options are plentiful – if that’s your thing – although the market is already giving priority to cars that are untouched. Genuine, unmolested cars are getting very rare.

The Astra GTE is proof that the hot hatch market was not just limited to the Golf or 205 GTI arena. It’s an impressive car with enough robustness to be used regularly. As classic hot hatches go, you’d be a fool to rule it out.

VAUXHALL VICTOR F-SERIES REVIEW

With translatlantic styling and a bullet-proof engine, the original Victor seemed like a recipe for success in the 1950s. It sold well, too... but you’ll have to hunt hard to find one now

Slip behind the wheel, making sure not to catch your knees on the dog’s leg projection that carries the windscreen wrap-around, and settle into a remarkable period piece. 

Even the instrument panel makes you think of
a 1950s juke box; there’s a big plastic-rimmed
wheel and, as you look around the cabin, you can’t miss the two-toned interior. It will probably smell of vinyl, too. 

The engine’s a surprisingly flexible slogger and the gearing is low – but with much higher gearing you wouldn’t be going anywhere very fast. You quickly get used to the three-speed column change and the rather vague recirculating-ball steering, but the all-round drum brakes need a bit of forethought until you’re confident. 

The live rear axle hops around a bit on bumpy roads, and the skinny crossply tyres mean you’ll corner gingerly until you’ve got the full measure of the car.

VITAL STATISTICS

VAUxHALL VICTOR F-SERIES - Series II 

Engine                                    1508cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  55bhp@4200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 85lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                74mph

0-60mph                                  28.1sec

Consumption                            30mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The F-series Victors are a rare find today, and there’s a reason: rust. The old joke about the cars rusting before they left the factory was made for a reason! Unitary construction was in its early days when Vauxhall drew up the design, and nobody had thought about rust traps. The Victor’s shell is full of them. So rebuilding a rusty Victor will demand a lot of skill and a lot of time; if you don’t have an abundance of both, we’d advise you not to try. Professional restoration will cost far more than the cars are currently worth.

Check the inner sills for rust; you should also examine the whole of the underbody area. The really critical area is that around the rear spring-hangers, which sit right in the middle of a major rust zone. You’ll find rust in the rear floor under the seat, and in bad cases it spreads right across the car and up the inner wheelarch. Patching is feasible in some cases, but unless it’s been done very skilfully it will be immediately obvious when you open the back doors.

Rust on the outside of the body will be only too apparent, especially in the rear wheelarches, rear wings, front wings and front panel. 

There’s a lot of chrome on an F-series Victor, and most of it will do its best to rust. The Super models have extra, around the windows, and there were optional ‘bonnet birds’ – chromed bullets that sit on the front of the bonnet. Particular problems are the bulbous bumper ends on Series I cars, especially the left-hand rear where exhaust fumes always attack the chrome finish. Your best bet will be to salvage damaged chrome and have it re-plated; it costs, but you could wait forever to find decent replacement items. Chrome trim often did not line up very well when the cars were new, and you could spend many fruitless hours trying to achieve perfection – which would not be original!

ENGINE

The engines have a single Zenith carburettor and are both simple to maintain and long-lived. They are derivatives of earlier Vauxhall types and enjoy good spares support. There are no special weaknesses of the three-speed gearboxes, although the column change may need adjustment to work without crunching the gears. During 1958, a Newtondrive two-pedal transmission option was introduced, but it wasn’t very reliable and soon disappeared. There are probably no survivors.

BRAKES

Estates are exceptionally rare, and only about a dozen survive in the UK. Apart from the obvious body differences, they have a lower rear axle ratio and an extra leaf in the rear springs. Tyres are fatter, too.INTERIOR

The standard interior has two-tone upholstery, with bench seats front and rear, trimmed in Elastofab nylon and rayon. It will be difficult to find replacement trim material. The De Luxe models had individual front seats and leather upholstery – again in two-tone – and this is easier to replace. 

OUR VERDICT

When Vauxhall replaced their E-series Wyvern, Velox and Cresta models in early 1957, they replaced a single design with two new ones. In place of the six-cylinder Velox and Cresta came the PA model, while the Victor replaced the four-cylinder Wyvern. Both leaned heavily on US styling trends of the mid-1950s; Vauxhall was owned by GM, after all.

The major styling influence on the Victor was from the 1955 Chevrolet, and the new F series had the same sculpted rear door top, similar front end details, heavily curved front and rear screens, and lashings of chrome. As a much smaller car than the Chevy, it did look a bit overdone, but it seemed to be what the buyers wanted. In fact, the F-series Victor is said to have become Britain’s most exported car at the time.

A better-proportioned estate derivative joined the range in 1958, but from 1959 Series II versions of both models toned down the original styling. The sculpted door tops, exhaust emerging through the overrider, and teardrop flutes all disappeared. 

The links with the 1950s tend to overshadow everything else about these Victors. You don’t actually have to wear drapes and have a DA haircut, but it probably helps you to get into the spirit of ownership! The styling associated with the era was so distinctive that it can also be a deterrent to some people: you either love it or think it’s crass and over-the-top.

Driving the Victor is a bit of a so-so experience. Like most saloons of its era, it’s neither quick nor particularly reassuring in the handling department. These were bread-and-butter family saloons, for all their visual distinctiveness, and they behave like it. 

So... a show car but not an enthusiastic driver’s car; that’s our verdict.