RENAULT DAUPHINE REVIEW

The first French car to sell two million has all but disappeared. We hunt one down

Few classics are quite as charming as the little rear-engined Dauphine. Its cute looks and practicality endeared it to the masses, and a production line was even set up in Acton, London. It didn’t stop there, with the little Dauphine being produced in many other factories worldwide. It was even sold in America as a rival to the Volkswagen Beetle, thanks in part to its generous seating and economical running.

---

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The rear wheelarches can rot sufficiently to require the entire wing being replaced, at a likely cost of £500. Check also the lower edge of the rear window surround and around the tail lights, where chrome embellishments can trap water and harbour rust. Corrosion also builds behind the headlight rings, upper and lower bodyside trims, grille surround and front and rear bumpers. Get under the car and make sure that the underseal that should have been applied upon arrival in the UK is present and correct; budget £400 for fresh application.

ENGINE

The 845cc, four-cylinder engine may only have a three-bearing crankshaft, but it was used to power Renault 5s in the 1980s. There is no oil filter, so regular changes are absolutely essential – every 1500 miles. A good anti-freeze should be used too. Regular Dauphines had 30-31bhp, upped to 38/40 for the Gordini, which uses a different cylinder head. 

RUNNING GEAR

Most Dauphines have a three-speed gearbox, though four-speeds were later optional and standard on the Gordini. They’re pretty tough, but failing synchromesh and/or worn linkages can make crunch-free gearchanges very difficult. Driveshafts rarely give trouble unless the engine has been significantly tuned. Brakes are usually all-drum, but an all-disc set-up became available on Gordinis from 1964 and was briefly optional on Dauphines before production ended. Note that the front tyre pressures are exceptionally low – just 15psi – so don’t be surprised if they look squishy. Tyres can be expensive – around £100 each.

INTERIOR

Finding trim is tricky as there was a surprising range of interior colours. The rubber edging on the doors can degrade but can be replaced by plastic or cloth. Electrics were initially 6v, later 12v. There’s nothing wrong with the 6v electrics, but it’s imperative that everything is in good order. Dirty connectors or dynamo brushes can cause issues, but are usually easily sorted.

---

OUR VERDICT

The Dauphine has a reputation as an ill-handling death trap, which really is a bit unfair. Like a Porsche 911, you do need to treat it with respect but unlike a 911, there’s not really enough power to get yourself into a real mess. Few are likely to use a Dauphine to push the limits today and with consideration for the physics, you can drive one quite briskly with no drama. Prices have been rising, thanks to a low survival rate and serious charm. 

BMW Z1 REVIEW

A reinvention of the sports car? Perhaps, but there's no doubt it's an instant classic.
The radically sleek shape of the BMW Z1 two-seater roadster immediately made an impact when revealed to the press in 1986. By the time the car was displayed at the Frankfurt Show the following year it had been further refined.

The first product to be designed and developed by BMW Tecknik GmbH, it was also the company’s first roadster since production of the 507 finished in 1959.
A major feature was the deep sills into which the retractable doors and side windows slid up and down. All Z1s were left-hand drive.
The Z stands for Zukunft, the German for future, and was subsequently continued with the Z3, Z4 and Z8.

VITAL STATISTICS
Engine     2494cc/6-cyl/OHC
Power      168bhp@5800rpm
Torque    161 lb ft@4300rpm
Top speed 137mph
0-60mph  8.0sec
Economy    24-28mpg
Gearbox   RWD, five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK
The usual bodywork problems with corrosion don’t apply with the Z1 that made novel use of lightweight thermoplastic panels. However, panels can warp or bend and are liable to scratch, especially around the door areas. Check that panels are aligned properly and that the clips that hold them together are present. About 90% of the panels are readily available, but others you will have to wait for. Main areas to check for stress and wear are the rear wing (especially on the driver’s side), wing mounting points and wheel arch liners. Boots are prone to fill with water when seals degrade. The car is painted in a flexible lacquer finish while the hood is GRP. The area where the framework folds is a weak point on the soft top, so look for fraying, holes or patches.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX
Both the M20B25 engine and five-speed gearbox were sourced from the E30 325i and 325Ix and are generally reliable if well looked after. The 2.5-litre straight-six engine sits tilted at a 20-degree angle to facilitate the low hood-line. Well-maintained cars can reach high mileages without signs of wear and tear. Cambelts should be changed every 30,000 miles or every three years. Look out for tuned, uprated or even replacement engines. Also, right-hand drive conversion cars can have their problems. Exhausts suffer corrosion and a rear box will cost £1000+ to replace.

RUNNING GEAR
The chassis of the Z1 featured several innovative features including a flat, composite undertray, continuously zinc welded seams and a ground-effect system incorporating the transversely mounted rear silencer. The rear suspension Z Axle system was specifically designed for the Z1, but would subsequently see use on 1990s BMW Group cars. It is recommended that you get the suspension checked professionally to confirm its viability. Check the steering rack for signs of wear around the universal joint. Another Z1-only feature are the attractive seven-spoke 16in alloys.

INTERIOR
The Nubuck leather trim is easily scuffed, especially around the door/sill areas and is not an economical fix. Side panels can wear to expose the innards, while the seat area can wrinkle badly when the leather becomes separated from the foam base. An official UK car will be identified by the fact that the dials will read for gallons and mph.  The first 200 cars were fitted with a re-badged Sony radio known as the Z1 Audio System. Air conditioning was not fitted to the cars but conversions using E30 parts have sometimes been carried out. The three-spoke steering wheel is unique to the Z1 and incorporates improved grip. Boot and other storage space is limited.

ELECTRICS
The electric motorised doors operate via toothed belts that can break or slip out of adjustment. There are two different motors on each door, which may require attention. The electrically adjustable rear-view mirrors are mounted on the windscreen pillars, so check that they are aligned and work properly.  Original fisheye filament lighting will be very poor by present day standards and will need upgrading if not already carried out. Official French imports have yellow headlights rather than clear ones.
 

OUR VERDICT
Let’s face it, you don’t see one every day. And to see more than one would be an event. BMW sold just 77 of the 8000 Z1s built between 1989 and 1991 to the UK at prices that would have bought you a Porsche at the time. In more recent times, it became more affordable to import examples from Germany, but now some are going the other way. When it comes to exclusivity, they don’t come any better than this.

RENAULT 16 REVIEW

It was a revolution in family car design - and still cuts a dash today...

The Renault 16, in many ways, was the template for the modern car - and it's hard to believe when looking at it that it celebrated its 50th birthday in 2015. But with front-wheeled drive, and a five-door hatchback layout, it could do the same job as your Mondeo - but with added flair and panache. It is both roomy and good to drive, and as long as you find a good example, you'll be rewarded with a classic car that turns heads, and rewards keen drivers who value comfort and tenacious handling as a priority.

The Gallic equivalent to the Austin Maxi is not without its faults, though - and certainly new drivers will take time to acclimatise to its generous body roll in bends and that idiosyncratic dash-mounted gearchange. But once mastered, anyone who loves cars will not fail to fall for this forward-thinking family car.

Being a Renault, parts and specialist support is less straightforward than, say, an MG or Triumph, but with a great owners' club, and an enthusiastic band of specialists who deal with them, you'll get what you need in the worst case scenario - eventually. So, buy a rust-free example, enjoy classic driving with a modern twist - and bask in the joy of not seeing another at a classic car event.

---

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1647cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power: 93bhp@6000rpm

Torque: 95lb ft@4000rpm

Maximum speed: 110mph

0-60mph: 11.5sec

Fuel consumption: 26-30mpg

Transmission: FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Put your structure first

The number one priority in any potential Renault 16 purchase is the condition of its body. Never, ever underestimate this car's ability to rot - and just about anywhere. Although it's a relatively sturdy structure, serious rust can take its toll in all places - so have a good poke in the engine bay, especially the inner wings. Then, examine the inner and outer sills, A-posts, the area around the jacking points, and finally, the structure around the rear suspension mounts and the rear inner hweel arches, as this is crucially important to the car's continued survival and viability as a restoration project - repairs in this area are very much a complex specialist job.

Now check the outers

Once you've ascertained that the structure is sound, and won't bend at the first sign of a pothole, take a close look at the bvase of the front wings (not easy to get hold of), and the door bottoms. Then, check the front and rear valance - these are cosmetic repairs, but hard to do well.

Running gear pointers

After all that corrosion-based horror, the good news is that the engine and running gear are very sturdy indeed. The 1470, 1565 and 1647cc all-alloy overhead valve engines were shared with a number of other Renaults, so basic parts availability is good. Some model-specific items can be hard to track down - don't under-estimate minor failures, such as condensers or points. Also, headgasket replacement is an involved job, so make sure any car you look at is running well and doesn't pressure up.

Electrics

Generally easy to sort - and not trouble-free, but the TX's electric windows can be troublesome to keep operating smoothly. Other than that, watch for bad earths causing lighting and general operational problems.

Inside story

Unsurprisingly, minor trim items are tough to find, so make sure it's complete and in good order. The vinyl interiors are long-lived and rugged, but cloth seats are a real pain to repair if damaged, and aren't very durable.

OUR VERDICT

Why do you want one? Because you're an individualist, and want to drive a car that is more clever than the obvious classic choices. There are many Renault 16 variants to choose from, and all will cut a dash wherever you take them. The original 1965 1470cc versions are capable and economical, but the TS from 1968, with the more powerful 1565cc engine offers plenty more entertainment. We'd go for the fabulous R16 TX, the ultimate version, which was sold between 1973 and 1980 - it sports 93bhp, a five-speed gearbox, and sprints to 110mph. It's practically a hot hatch, but a wonderfully comfortable one at that.

RILEY 11/40 REVIEW

At the Olympia Show of 1919 Riley introduced an entirely new model, the Riley 11/40 10.8hp, developed to enable production to be more straightforward than before. By 1925 the highly successful 11/40 model was upgraded to 11.9hp with an enlarged engine of 1645cc by increasing the bore from 65.8mm to 69mm, retaining the same 110mm long stroke, thereby raising the sturdy detachable-head side-valve engines output from 35bhp at 3,200rpm to 42bhp at 3,600rpm. A bigger chassis and front wheel brakes were introduced from 1925. A wide iety of factory body styles were offered, often made by Midland Motor Body, another Riley family firm, and a number of cars were exported in chassis form, particularly to the Antipodes where demand proved strong.

BMW M3 E36 REVIEW

The second BMW M3 was nothing like the initial cars which had borne the name. Instead of a four cylinder race derived hooligan, the new car – based upon the E36 – was a more refined, six cylinder range-topper derived from the 325iS. Critics claimed it was closer to a 6-series replacement than a true M3 – and to an extent they were right. But then, BMW never argued otherwise – it was a quick car that would appeal to everyone from the racer to the family man and business user.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 3201cc, 6-cyl, DOHC

Power - 321bhp@7400rpm

Torque - 258lb/ft@3250rpm

Top Speed – 155mph

0-60mph – 5.3seconds

Economy - 20 mpg

Gearbox – 5/6 speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The E36 M3 was available with most of the standard bodies; the saloon, coupe and convertible. There are no particular rust spots E36s are prone to, but it would be wise to check the whole car for any signs of corrosion. As with any other car, pay attention to the sills, door bottoms, wheelarches, and get it on a ramp if you can. With the best rustproofing in the world, a car will only be rust free if it has been done properly and has never needed a repair.

Engines

The three litre engine is based upon BMW’s M50 engine, also seen in the E36 325i and the E34 525i. It’s a 24 valve unit which develops almost 100bhp/litre, and utilises the VANOS iable cam timing system. The torque curve is not dissimilar to Ayres Rock, in that it is high and flat – and the dual mass flywheel contributes to the engine’s ability to rev to nearly 7300rpm. In 1996 the M3 was breathed on, and became known as the M3 Evolution. An extra 30bhp was found inside the engine, which had grown to 3.2 litres and surpassed the magical 100bhp/litre mark. Lambda sensors and oil pressure valves are known for going, and seals and gears within the VANOS cam timing mechanism are both prone to failure and a job best entrusted to a specialist. The M50 and all M50 derived engines are excellent in terms of reliability, and should pose no problems barring those mentioned above. As with any specialist car though, it needs to be cared for by specialists.

Running Gear

Not all the same as a standard E36. The springs are shorter and firmer, with firmer dampers and thicker anti roll bars. The gearbox is from the 5-series. Evolution cars use 850 driveshafts and wheelbearings, an E34 M5 limited slip differential, and uprated proprietary control arms. The rear shock absorber top mounts are a suspect point – lifting each rear corner of the car should highlight any issues there. Exhausts and tyres are expensive, so make sure they’re all as good as they can be before buying. Tyres with less than 3mm left can be used as bargaining counters.

Interior

M-Technic seats are the sole difference between the M3 and the rest of the range. This, of course, means that all number of E36s in scrapyards can yield interesting and useful bits of trim. There’s nothing particularly worth worrying about; most were leather and whilst the stuff isn’t cheap at least leather can be retrimmed well. They’re a nice place to be too; with space for 4 in comfort, a well laid out dash, and enough boot space for a touring holiday. This is where the E36 differs from the E30; it’s a GT car rather than a bit of a lunatic.

OUR VERDICT

The E36 M3 is one of the ultimate Q-cars. The Evolution models are blisteringly quick, and the pre-Evolution cars aren’t slow either. Yet with the exception of trained BMW spotters, few will ever notice the difference between an M-car and a standard 318i. Show the chavs who’s boss with an M3, and they won’t know what’s hit ‘em – and on top of this understated performance is the fact that they’ll take four and a decent amount of luggage. Is the M3 all things to all men? Quite possibly – and the E36 is on the cusp of classicdom to boot.

RILEY BROOKLANDS REVIEW

The first Riley sports car to use the Nine engine was surprisingly not built by Riley, but the inspiration from the great J. Parry Thomas, soon to be tragically killed while attempting to break the Land Speed Record in "Babs" at Pendine Sands in March 1927. The project was picked up by Reid Railton, the first few 'Riley Brooklands Speed Models' being built by Thomson and Taylor. Driven by Railton, the new racing car won its first race at Brooklands in the Autumn meeting of 1927 at 91.37mph, astonishing for an 1100cc car. Many Brooklands Class G records were established in 1928, including the 500 miles at a respectable 87.09mph. Capable of 80mph in standard form, the 'Brooklands' in essence was created from a standard Nine chassis which was double cranked, shortened by fifteen inches, narrowed at the back, with underslung rear springs, in line with the frame. The bodywork was so low that when measured, the radiator cowl was only 36 inches from the ground, or 4 inches less than the roof height of a 1960s Le Mans Ford GT40! The prototype had a fabric body and was believed to weigh about 1,120 lbs, Coventry-built production versions arriving at 1,680 lbs with a road-equipped price of £395.

BMW 8-SERIES REVIEW

Think of the 8-series as the more stylish brother of the big '7' saloon and you won't be far off the mark. This was a grand tourer of the old school, designed to cocoon its occupants across continents at a high speed - what it wasn't was the direct successor to the 6-series, and that left a few buyers disappointed.

But with that in mind how does it drive? Well, very smoothly as befits a big BMW and there is decent performance on offer, although even the turbine-smooth V12 doesn't have the immediate punch you'd expect. The automatic gearbox feels like it's sapping power, and you're very much aware of the weight of the 8-series. But to be fair, it isn't what you'd call slow and there is an easy-rolling gait once you're up to speed.

Mind you that speed does reveal a slight deficiency in the braking department. Ultimate stopping power is fine if you really lean on the anchors but the initially soft pedal feel saps confidence when slowing from big speeds. Handling also feels compromised slightly on typical UK roads by the car's sheer girth. Absorbent ride makes this a fine cruiser. The steering is good too, it feels accurate and nicely weighted.

More impressive still is the wonderfully comfortable cabin, and while you might wonder where all those generous external dimensions have gone - the small rear seats are effectively unusable - there is no arguing with the luxury on offer.

With a driving position that's adjustable every-which-way and supportive leather-clad chairs, you'll get out after covering hundreds of miles feeling fresh and relaxed - and that really is what this car's all about. And you'll be able to spend those miles playing with the vast range of toys that come as standard. One thing it didn't lack was kit, so as well as all the usual layout-saving accoutrements you'll find items such as climate and cruise control, a superb sound system and an on-board computer stacked within the vast dashboard.

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 8 Series

Engine                                    4398cc/V8-cyl/4OC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  286bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 310lb ft@ 3900rpm

Top speed                                155mph

0-60mph                                  6.8sec

Consumption                            20-22mpg 

Gearbox                                    5-spd automatic
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust can nibble at the edges of the E31, so check the wheelarches and sills for tell-tale bubbling. The sunroof area is another weak spot so watch for corrosion around its edges and the panel itself - if it's gone too far a whole new sunroof cassette could be required costing £1500 for the part alone. The plastic nosecone is susceptible to cracking after minor impacts, so check around the kidney grilles for damage or bodged repairs - a replacement is £500 plus painting and fitting costs.
With such an expanse of metalwork you'll need to check the panels for scuffs and dents as repairs won't be cheap. Ensure the pop-up headlamps are working properly and check that light units and exterior trim are undamaged as genuine replacements are very pricey. And it's not uncommon to find screens turning milky around the edges due to de-lamination, and with replacement costly it's often ignored.

ENGINE

Early M60 4.0-litre V8s suffered premature Nikasil cylinder bore wear but this will have been sorted by now - it's always good to check the history. The 4.4-litre M62 unit was fine and like the V12s is pretty much bullet-proof as long as it's not been neglected. Issues to watch for include oil leaks from cylinder head and timing covers; signs of head gasket problems; a cooling system past its best, leaking water pumps; and rough running or uneven idle caused by intake air leaks or problems with the VANOS variable valve timing system. V12s duplicated the electronics for each cylinder bank and ECU/sensor faults can be hard to trace.
The complex electronics are a problem, and battery drain can be a headache. Replacing the twin boot-mounted items will cost £250 and tracing the culprit can lead to spiralling labour costs; specialists recommend fitting a cut-off switch, but be wary is the car you're looking at has starting problems.

ELECTRICS

There's a gadget-packed cabin so check it all works before taking the plunge. The huge cost of replacing electronic items led many owners to ignore failures so beware. Dead pixels on the on-board computer display are common while a smell of coolant is likely to mean the heater matrix has failed, with replacement an expensive dash-out job. Failed air-conditioning condensers and corroded pipework aren't uncommon either.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were six-speed manuals or 4/5-speed autos depending on model, and while essentially robust the cost of replacement is eye-watering. Watch for excessive noise and obstructive shifts on the manual, and sluggish or jerky autos that could be in need of a rebuild after 100,000 miles or so. Both units will benefit from regular oil changes. Vibrations at sped are often caused by failing propshaft joints.

The hefty kerb weight results in these cars being heavy on suspension bushes, and the 8-series is also sensitive to proper wheel alignment - so check for uneven tyre wear or wandering at speed. The Electronically Controlled Damper (EDC) system on 850 models cost a hefty £900 a corner, so check them for leaks. The 850CSi also had rear-wheel steering, and replacing corroded hydraulic pipework means dropping the rear subframe, a big and very costly job.

BRAKES

Excessively vague recirculating ball steering is usually down to worn tie rod or idler arm bushes, both a relatively cheap fix. Brakes are something of an Achilles heel, so examine the state of discs and pads, and check for dash warning lights indicating failure of the ABS and DSC traction control system - diagnosis with a specialist is straightforward. The bigger alloy wheel options are prone to kerbing and corrosion, so budget accordingly.

INTERIOR

Watch for a sagging headlining and shabby leather.

OUR VERDICT

If you’re looking for a modern classic that’s capable of stress-free long-distance travel, an 8 Series is definitely one to consider. It’s not exactly family-friendly transport and is probably best thought of as a two-seater. It is certainly a head-turner, though, and quite rare these days – just under 2200 V8s reached the UK and only about 850 V12s.

Prices have dropped to pretty low levels lately, and an 8 Series can be something of a bargain. In a few years, we’ll see the rough ones disappear as they pass through the ‘expensive banger’ stage, while the good ones will begin appreciating again. So our advice would be to buy while you can and, as always, to get the best you can afford. On parts, BMW dealer prices can be very expensive, but your local motor factor can help more than you’d expect – and prices will be a very pleasant surprise.

The 8-series is a wonderfully luxurious mile-muncher and a very appealing car to drive, but it's also a potential money pit if you choose unwisely. The huge running costs meant many were neglected as the years rolled by and even shiny-looking examples can need bankrupting amounts of money spent. A good one will be a joy, but be very, very careful.

BMW Z8

The BMW E52 Z8 started out life as a concept car designed by Henrik Fisker, the Z07, which was unveiled at the Tokyo auto Show in 1997, two years before production began. The inspiration for the car is unashamedly BMW’s 1950s sweetheart, the 507. One of the company’s most beautiful cars, its spirit is well captured in the Z8. The design cues are clear; the front grille, long bonnet, rear lights, and especially the wing mounted side vents.

Unlike most concept cars the Z07 was always intended to go into production, so regulations were taken into account before sharpened charcoal even hit paper. As a result, the Z8 changed very little from the design that first amazed the world in Tokyo. The height and rake of the windscreen were altered slightly, and the stylised helmet fairing was also removed from the boot, a compromise to allow the power roof to operate unimpeded. Regrettably, a more conventional single-bubble roof also replaced the rather jazzy double-bubble hard top fitted to the concept car. Though originally a concept car, the Z8 is based firmly around tried and tested technology, most importantly the 4.9-litre V8 ‘S62’ lifted from the E39 M5, an engine hailed for its power, reliability and gorgeous V8 growl. Despite sharing an engine with the M5, it was decided that the existing chassis was too long, so a new all-aluminium design was created specifically for the Z8.

Produced from 1999-2003 and originally sold for £86,595, the BMW Z8 was always going to be a limited production model. Over the course of production 5703 cars were built, over half of which were sold in the United States, unsurprisingly, given that it was only ever offered in left-hand drive. What is surprising is that they have never suffered depreciation, a feat that all but the most limited edition sports cars could hope to match. With BMW holding a stockpile of parts intended to last 50 years there is no doubt that the Z8 will continue to rise in value, making it one of the most exciting classics of the future and a sure-fire investment.

Push the start button and the twin exhausts burst into a sonorous rhythm as the huge 4.9-litre V8 is awakened. In first gear the car is docile and smooth, feeling like a larger cousin – a 6 or 7 Series. Glancing around the cabin reveals this influence further. A myriad of toys is hidden beneath retracting panels dripping in brushed aluminium.

In second things get interesting; power arrives in a wave as the revs climb higher, a snap change to third, foot hard down and the car soars up to the national limit.

Your view of the onrushing road is unimpeded, the design of the dash enabling you a clear view of the road ahead and bulging bonnet, hinting at the power lurking beneath. Then you discover the ‘Sport’ button. Cruising at 4500 revs the car sounds alive with power; push ‘Sport’ and the acceleration hits like a brick through a stained glass window. It’s so fast you nearly get a fright, but the car’s perfect 50/50 weight distribution encourages confidence. It feels light on its pins, weight shifting quickly and sharply from side to side as it takes roundabouts and corners in its stride, all the while going faster and faster until you finally ease back.

The 394bhp does well to give the impression of lightness, but this doesn’t mean it feels flimsy. In truth, the car seems to be built to withstand a nuclear apocalypse. The doors are long and heavy, and when closed sound not just ‘like a Golf’, but like a Golf being dropped from a great height – onto another Golf. This build quality continues through the rest of the car; leather is suitably plush and switches and buttons all make the most satisfying of clicks and clunks.

1950s retro styling is continued to the cabin, most notable by a modern interpretation of a sprung ‘Bluemels’ Brooklands style steering wheel, though without the functionality of an original. This works in perfect harmony with contrasting clean and modern look prevalent in the rest of the cabin, coming together in an aesthetic fusion of vintage and modern styles.

RILEY IMP REVIEW

Introduced in 1926, Percy Rileys 9hp, 1,087cc, twin-camshaft four was an outstanding engine design by any standards, ious versions powering Rileys until 1957. Clothed in stylish bodywork by Stanley Riley, the Coventry marques pre-war offerings were among the worlds finest small-capacity sporting cars. Right from the start it was obvious that the 9hp Riley engine possessed enormous potential as a competition unit, and at Brooklands J G Parry-Thomas and Reid Railton were the first to demonstrate just how good it was. The success of their racer led to a production version, the Speed Model, which soon became known as the Brooklands Nine. Six-cylinder Brooklands and MPH models followed, and from these Riley developed the next of its 9hp four-cylinder sports cars the Imp. Like the MPH, the Riley Imp featured a short-wheelbase chassis, of 7 ft 6 in in the latters case, that swept upwards over the front axle and was underslung at the rear, this layout having been first used on the Brooklands Six. The engine was mildly revised, twin SU carburettors fitted and a Scintilla magneto offered as an option. With its long bonnet, flowing wings and short tail, the Imp is without question one of the most attractive small sports cars of its' era. Made in limited numbers, it is a rarity today and much sought after.

RILEY ONE POINT FIVE REVIEW

Introduced in November 1957 at the London Motor Show, the Riley One-Point-Five was the result of a project conceived to replace the evergreen Morris Minor with a larger project. This project; codenamed DO1059, was intended to be capable of housing the larger B-series in 1200cc form. However, the Suez crisis ensured that axing the Minor would be commercial suicide; so with sales booming the replacement project was axed. The development work wasn’t wasted however, for the Riley One Point Five and less powerful Wolseley 1500 emerged as upmarket alternatives to the Minor and the 100E.

---

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1489cc, 4-cyl, OHV
Power 66bhp @ 5200rpm
Torque 77lb/ft@3500rpm
Top Speed 82mph
0-60mph 18.9seconds
Economy 27mpg
Gearbox 4 speed manual

---

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Rust is your main enemy and it can pretty much strike anywhere. Try to get underneath so you can check the vulnerable floorpan, but best advice is to look absolutely everywhere. Front wings are a known grot spot – along their tops, down their trailing edges and around the headlamps. The front panel and valance also corrode, as do the sills. If the sills get too bad, then the tinworm can spread to the floorpan as well. Moving back a bit more, the bottoms of the doors go frilly if the drain holes have become blocked, as do the rear wheelarches. And what the arches are attached to doesn’t fare much better, as the rear wings tend to disappear from the bottom upwards thanks to mud traps and thrown-up stuff from the road. Underneath, the front chassis legs, torsion bar and rear spring mountings go crusty. As issues with these are all MoT failure points, if a car has a valid certificate, they should be reasonably okay.
Much of the brightwork is Mazak, which tends to pit and corrode. Putting it right could mean spending lots of time searching around at autojumbles. 

ENGINE 

Thanks to B-series engines being shared with the MGA, parts are quite plentiful. The engines are robust, although they do tend to burn oil. If it is excessive – watch for clouds of blue smoke from the rear – then a rebuild will be necessary sooner rather than later. Check the oil pressure while on the move: it should be at least 50psi when warm and cruising nicely. Engines are usually a little noisy, thanks to worn timing chains, but it shouldn’t be excessive.

RUNNING GEAR 

Synchromesh on the gearboxes is weak, especially with all the torque from the Riley, which causes second gear synchro to expire easily. On your test drive, change up and down the ‘box a lot to see how easy the shifts are. While whining from the transmission isn’t that much to be worried about, it will eventually lead to the gearbox needing to be replaced. However, the units could last for years making such slight protestations. On the MkIII cars – from 1961 onwards – the gearboxes were stronger, so these tend to last longer than the earlier ones. Back axles are resilient enough to outlast the rest of the car, unless they have been allowed to run dry.

The suspension borrows a lot from the Morris Minor, including the propensity for the front to collapse if the swivels aren’t lubricated every 1000 miles. Try to ascertain how conscientiously this has been done. Lack of attention will cause the joints to seize and, ultimately, to shear, leading to the front end giving way. Lever arm dampers go sloppy after 30,000 to 40,000 miles, and can also spring leaks. 

Brakes are reasonable enough, although they are drums all around and without any servo-assistance.  

INTERIOR 

A leather and wood interior means it is vital to buy the best you can find, otherwise a retrim by a specialist may exceed the cost of the car. Controls and instruments are shared with a lot of other BMC cars, thus making them quite easy to source. 

Electrics are simple enough, although the boot-mounted SU electric fuel pump does often play up due to poor contacts. Wiring looms go brittle with age too, which means that things stop working. Attempts to make a ‘quick fix’ quite often fail to correctly diagnose a more serious problem.   

---

VERDICT

Rileys project a veneer of sporting luxury while being cheap to buy and run. They’re quite practical machines, with spacious boots and the ability to keep up with modern cars and cruise comfortably on motorways. And they’re sufficiently rare that a good one – or even a not-so-good one – will always turn heads. It’s still possible to use and appreciate one every day without ruining your appetite for 1950s and 60s small classics.

BMW 2002 REVIEW

BMW became master of the sporting saloon with the BMW 2002. Here's why you want one... 

BMW has long been fond of dubbing its cars as ‘the ultimate driving machines’, and while that might be going a bit far with the 2002, it is undoubtedly a fine saloon. The front engine/rear-wheel drive layout delivers a good blend of ride and handling, even if the rear suspension demands a degree of respect in slippery conditions.

You enjoy all this from a superb cabin – the driving position is spot-on and there’s no arguing with the quality of the materials. Even 40 years ago, BMW had clearly mastered the art of solid construction and efficient interiors. There isn’t huge performance on offer in standard 2.0-litre form – the turbo delivers plenty of excitement for those after more pace – but the smooth power delivery makes for an effective mile-eater. As a relaxing long-distance tourer, the 2002 is well-nigh unbeatable.

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 2002

Engine                                    1990cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  100bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 116lb ft@3000

Top speed                                107mph

0-60mph                                  12sec

Consumption                            23mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Despite BMW’s reputation for quality maufacturing, corrosion is an issue with the 2002. Rust can nibble away at the door bottoms and the edges of both bonnet and boot, and you need to pay close attention to the sills. Blocked drain holes cause many of the problems, so take a good look at the point where the A-posts meet the sills and where the sills meet the rear wheelarches. The front wheelarches and inner wings are rot-spots, too, as is the area around the bulkhead. There are also several box sections around the radiator and headlamps that can harbour rust. 

The front chassis rails and jacking points can disintegrate, as can the floorpan of the cabin and boot. The spare wheel well corrodes and you will need to pay close attention to the chassis box section above the driveshafts. The potential for water leaks means Baur cabriolet models should come in for particular scrutiny. While many panels and repair sections are available, the cost of a major restoration can mount alarmingly.

ENGINE

Regular fluid and filter changes will enable most engines to cover big mileages before major attention is needed. However, there are a few issues to watch for, including oil leaks and coolant seeping from a failed water pump. Head gaskets can give up and a noisy valve-gear means a top-end overhaul is on the cards, while a smoky exhaust or rough-running is often down to either worn carburettor spindles or worn distributor bearings that put the ignition timing out. You need to be a bit more wary if you’re looking at an injected or turbocharged car – the Kugelfischer fuel-injection system is basically reliable, but it needs to be set up properly and the price of a set of injectors from BMW is nudging £2000, while replacing the KKK turbocharger is a similarly costly exercise. If you are in any doubt, it’s best to get a specialist to inspect the car.

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Both manual and automatic gearboxes are reliable if treated to regular fluid changes, and a good test drive should reveal any untoward noises. Some owners have upgraded to the manual ’box from the E21 3-Series – a popular mod and not likely to cause any problems if done properly. Driveline vibrations can be caused by worn differential mountings or a propshaft centre bearing on its way out, but neither is especially tricky to sort.

As for the rest of the running gear, lack of use often results in seized or binding brakes, so ensure that everything feels healthy on the road. Replacement front calipers aren’t cheap, so budget accordingly if you think an overhaul is due. UK models were fitted with twin brake servos which should be replaced as a pair – you’re looking at £400 for refurbished units. Any play in the steering box can be adjusted out, but watch for cars where an owner has overdone it – ‘tight spots’ as you turn between locks means an overhaul or replacement is needed.

BRAKES

Apart from corrosion around mounting points, the suspension is unlikely to give trouble other than the usual wear and tear. As with the brakes, aftermarket upgrades are popular, so make sure you’re happy with the standard of the work. 

INTERIOR

Interior trim was good quality and hard-wearing when new, but age will have taken its toll. Seats were trimmed in vinyl or cloth depending on model, and it’s a case of assessing the overall condition. While some parts are getting scarce, many are available through the owners’ club or from BMW, so if the rest of the car is sound, revitalising a tired cabin is a realistic proposition – just don’t underestimate the cost of doing it properly. It’s worth checking the electrics are in order – poor earth connections are responsible for most issues.

OUR VERDICT

Spend any time with a 2002 and you’ll realise it’s an excellent sports saloon, but it’s not without foibles. Restoring a bad one won’t be cheap, so buy the best you can afford.

RILEY RMA REVIEW

The RM series was the last independently developed Riley before the company was swallowed up by BMC in 1952. We take a closer look at the RMA

If the elegant, flowing lines aren’t good enough reason to buy an RMA, then how about the superbly crafted wood and leather interior? Or the torsion bar front suspension and rack-and-pinion steering that ensures it is as good to drive as it is to look at? An RMA provides a worthwhile reason to raid your bank account, but check any potential purchase thoroughly to avoid having to re-mortgage your house too. 

---

VITAL STATISTICS

1953 Riley RM

Engine                                    1496cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  55bhp@4500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 78lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed                                75mph

0-60mph                                  25sec

Consumption                            26mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

---

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Riley’s bodywork provides the most scope for time-consuming and expensive repairs. As well as the chassis and bodywork, there’s an ash framework to worry about too. The earlier the car, the more likely it is to have suffered where it arches up above the rear axle. The body mounts are welded to the chassis and usually rust in isolation. Front wings rust adjacent to the beading where they attach to the body, and behind the headlamp nacelle where a metal plate is welded beneath the wing for the wing support bracket. Check the rear wing beading carefully too – any bubbling means there is severe rust beneath.

Sills consist of metal-skinned timber. Assess them by opening both doors and lifting them gently, while looking for movement in the pillar. Boot floors rust along the rear edge where the join a stiffener, and if the body mounts in the boot floor are weakened, the rear body can sag onto the bumper irons. Boot lids also bubble along the bottom edge, with the spare wheel compartment lid below often suffering as well.

ENGINE

The 1.5-litre engine should be good for 100,000 miles. You’re looking for oil pressure of 25-40psi at a hot idle, rising to an ideal 50psi at a steady 40mph. Very high pressures suggest part-blocked crankshaft oilways. If the bearings are worn, you may hear a knocking – but not a rumble – under acceleration. This can be addressed by converting to shell bearings. The first signs of piston rings and cylinder bore wear will be blue smoke from the breather on the inlet side of the engine. The piston stroke extends below the water jacketing, and they occasionally break piston rings. Gearboxes last well, but weak synchromesh and jumping out of third gear on the overrun are the first signs of excessive wear.

RUNNING GEAR

Steering play is usually caused by wear in the floating centre eye that travels up and down the rack. There is scope for adjustment, but if it fails completely, then rebuilding is a possibility. Rear leaf springs sag over time, so check that the car sits level and that the springs have retained their curvature. If the front of the car has a tendency to pitch, tired rear springs and dampers are likely culprits. Lower front wishbones can crack on early cars, but a webbing stiffener added later and progressively beefed up throughout production did away with this fault.

Brake cylinders can be rebuilt, but on hydro-mechanical systems it’s vital that the plunger is in good condition and that the linkages are set correctly. Poor braking may be down to a badly rebuilt system.

INTERIOR

Exterior fittings can generally endure rechroming. As well as rusting, radiator shells can suffer from starting handle damage when the guide tube cracks. Interiors last surprisingly well, and are usually saveable by the home restorer, providing the seats aren’t split or horrendously worn. Most are covered with a heavy-grained leather, so full professional retrims are subsequently expensive. Take this into account if a prospective purchase is in a poor state of repair inside.

OUR VERDICT

Despite the slightly daunting list of potential issues, don’t get the impression that the RMA is fragile or unreliable. Thanks to robust engineering and eminent driveability, bagging a good one will allow you to enjoy regular usage, perhaps even on a daily basis. Performance is leisurely, but the RMA is about so much more than that, so why not bask in the sumptuous leather and wood trim.

BMW M1 REVIEW

Timeless Styling, beautiful build quality, a comfortable interior, taut handling, flexible engine, sparkling performance and well-controlled ride made the BMW M1 one of the most usable and practical supercars you could buy - a role only repeated much later by the Honda NSX. This makes it all the more sad that most now rarely turn a wheel, being tucked away in static collections.

BMW Motorsport chief Jochen Neerpasch wanted to hit rivals Porsche where it hurt - a car that would beat the 911 in Group 4, Group5 and at Le Mans. He commissioned Lamborghini to build it, hoping to launch at the 1978 Geneva Show before racing at Le Mans.

Giorgetto Giugiaro of ItalDesign was told to style a car that shouted supercar and BMW at the same time: he succeeded. With build quality guaranteed, customer versions finished to a high level, including air conditioning. Infinitely more reliable than their Italian supercar rivals, there was no more stylish or comfortable way to travel at 160+ mph with 60mph in 5.5 seconds, impressive even today. Giugiaro's compact bodywork encompassed a multi-tubular spaceframe chassis, while a twin-cam, 24-valve 3,453cc version of BMW's classic straight-six engine driving via a five-speed ZF transaxle provided the power.

But Lamborghini was going broke, failed to meet targets and BMW had to pull the plug. Worse, FIA rules changed and the M1 was suddenly a homologation special without a race series.

Neerpasch negotiated with Max Moseley to run a one-make Procar series supporting F1 Grands Prix, with top F1 drivers at the wheel. Niki Lauda took the championship in 1979, while Nelson Piquet bagged the title in 1980.

456 examples were built, a minimum of 400 being required for homologation to the proposed 'Silhouette Formula'.

The series was canned after BMW's attention turned to Formula 1 engines with Brabbham, but terrific PR had resulted, even if the dream of beating the Porsche 911 had faded. But who would build the M1?

Marchesi of Modena made the spaceframe and suspension. ItalDesign in Turin clothed the chassis with ten glassfibre panels that were made by Transformazione Italiana Resina, bonding and riveting the panels to the chassis, painting them and fitting the glass.

The rolling shells went to Baur at Stuttgart to receive engines, transmissions and interiors, before BMW at Munich carried out fine-tuning and road testing. Not surprisingly, the finished product was very expensive - more than a Ferrari Boxer - though dealers were said to have discounted dramatically, especially to customers favoured by BMW.

VITAL STATISTICS
Engine Iron-block, alloy-head 3453cc M88/1, twin-overhead camshaft, 24-valve, six-cylinder with Kugelfischer-Bosch mechanical fuel injection and Marelli contactless electronic ignition
Power 277bhp@6500rpm
Torque 239lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 162mph
0-60mph 5.5sec
Economy 15-22mpg
Gearbox ZF DS25 5-speed transaxle with dog-leg first, limited-slip differential
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

INFREQUENT USE
Infrequent use wreaks havoc with the race-oriented M1, the biggest issue being with the dry sump oil tank located to the right of the engine: long periods of standing allow condensation to form on its inner face (above the oil line), water and rust fall into the oil and when the engine is started, it is sucked into the bearings and seals with disastrous effect. If buying an M1 that has not been used for some time, and has not had the tank replaced, it would be foolhardy to start the engine without first replacing this tank. It is a complex structure with internal baffles, and the BMW price is extremely high.

SPACEFRAME ROT
The spaceframe can rot, and is difficult to inspect as it is mostly enveloped by the glassfibre panelwork: put it on a ramp and all that's visible is the full-width undertray - endoscopes and cameras are needed to inspect things properly.
Front bulkheads and the tubes along the sills are usually the first places to rust. Corrosion also hits around the engine bay, where the heat of the exhaust causes the powder coating to lift, leaving bare steel open to the elements. The steel door shells can also rot.

COOLANT AND BRAKE PIPES
The coolant and brake pipes run through the central steel tunnel inside the car, and these can corrode.
Again a camera/endoscope is needed to inspect these sections properly, and if attention is needed you must budget for engine and interior removal before any repair work begins.

ENGINE CONSIDERATIONS
Almost any engine is very expensive, not just because of the engine's high state of tune but also because of its inaccessibility.
The engine came from racing CSLs in the 1974 IMSA series, with a double-damped forged crank to rev past 7000rpm. It is mounted low but vertically between the seats and the rear transaxle. You have to strip the interior to get to the inspection hatch for the front of the engine, and for most jobs, even setting the valve clearances, you have to take the engine out.
Unlike other supercars, the M1's engine is robust and capable of high mileages if well maintained; it will need timing chains at c100,000 miles and if neglected will develop worn piston rings and gasket problems. Check the coolant for signs of cylinder head gasket leaks, which may also indicate a cracked cylinder head.
Oil leaks from the engine are common and if severe enough to warrant attention, once again the engine must be removed. Leaks may also come from the gearbox.  

BODYWORK
The glassfibre panels around the engine bay are fragile and often get broken, and are extremely expensive to reinstate accurately. Though made to a very high standard when new, the glassfibre bodywork is thin, as is its gelcoat, making it costly to restore successfully; cracks and crazing tend to occur around sharp corners such as the front 'boot' lid and pop-up headlamps.
Beware of cars where past resprays have rubbed through the gelcoat - get it in the right light and you will be able to see the glassfibre mat under the paint. Original paintwork was not high quality and runs were not uncommon.  

IGNITION MODULE
The Magnetti Marelli ignition module can be trouble on infrequently used cars, and those that have reached high mileages. Replacements are unobtainable; it's usually possible for the unit to be rebuilt, but the process is time-consuming and expensive.

CLUTCH ISSUES
The clutch generally has a short life, and is extremely expensive to replace; parts are generally very costly and specialists complain of long waits for items to arrive from Germany.

WHICH ONE?
1978: The M1 was unveiled at Paris in October, and on sale from february 1979. There were no changes during production of the 390 road M1s and interior trim was always black and grey (Recaro seats in leather with black/white dot cloth centres), os your choice is limited to road or racing, which exterior colour you prefer (or can find on the market - Verona Red and Black were the most popular), and European or Federalised (US) specification. All were left-hand drive, and all had German-language instrumentation (UPM instead of RPM) and controls.

Federal cars had their heater controls swapped for Engligh-language ones from the 320i. All had air conditioning, electric windows, heated rear window, foglights and a Becker Mexico radio-cassette. Low-milers can make £300,000.

A few personal-import M1s were turned to Federal spec by Automobile Compliance Inc of California in 1980. Energy-absorbing bumpers and side intrusion bars added 79kg; catalytic converters reduced power to 235bhp and torque to 243lb ft. Often modified, Federal cars are less sought after and sell for £100k-200k.

Racing M1s are more of a minefield because the high value of the 49 original Procar racers encourages owners of the 10 or so other racers to make theirs into Procar lookalikes. BMW built one Group 5 race prototype with a turbocharged 3.2-litre engine and c800bhp, but it was unable to race. March also built one, failing to qualify in Group 6 for Le Mans 1979, later modifying it for Group C. Schnitzer built a twin-turbo M1 with Kevlar body, but didn't race it; they also modified an M1 to run on natural gas, gave it better aerodynamics and took the gas-powered land speed record at 187.2mph. BMW did qualify one M1 for Le Mans 1979, painted by Andy Warhol - The M1 Art Car achieved sixth overall and second in class driven by Manfred Winkelhock, Herve Poulain and Marcel Mignol. The M1's other great race was the 1980 Nurburgring 1000km, when Hans Stuck and Nelson Piquet finished third.

Procar ran in 1979 and 1980, with five cars prepared by BMW for the top five F1 qualifiers (if their tyres allowed them to race on ProCar's Goodyear tyres) and 20 other run by independent teams. Niki Lauda won in 1979, Nelson Piquet in 1980. The Group 4 alloy-block race engines produced 470bhp at 9000rpm and 282lb ft at 7000rpm. Weighing 2215lb (1005kg), they could reach 62mph in 4.5sec and top 192mph. All had a big rear wing, add-on wide wheelarches and a deep front spoiler. Gearboxes came with oil cooler, a choice of ratios and uprated final drive, while extra-wide Campagnolo wheels in the same design as the road cars were fitted. Rose joints replaced rubber in the suspension, with special springs, dampers and anti-roll bars, quicker steering and no brake servo. Genuine Procars are worth around twice as much as the road cars.
 

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - RILEY RME

Introduced in 1952, the Riley RME series were noted for their outstanding handling, torsion bar independent front suspension and rack and pinion steering giving 'a really comfortable level ride with a sureness of road holding which is quite outstanding'. An improved version of the RMA, the Riley RME included an open propshaft, hypoid axle, full hydraulic brakes, and bigger rear window. Streamlined sidelights, the deletion of running boards, and the introduction of rear wheel spats were features of the 1954 model year.

BMW 5-SERIES E34 REVIEW

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.

There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to
V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds). These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved nearly a quarter of a century ago.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.
Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.
Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.
The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.
In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.
Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 
Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.

INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to
go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.
Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, 
so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?
Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.
One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

OUR VERDICT
The E34 5 Series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn’t bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won’t have any worries – although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.

BMW ISETTA REVIEW

The BMW Isetta makes the perfect car for those wanting a quirky classic with investment potential...

Just getting in is something of an event as you unlatch the big front door and watch the steering column swivel out of the way so you can squeeze onto the tiny bench seat. Once in there, is a surprising amount of room, even for tall drivers, and visibility is as excellent as you’d expect. The BMW engine buzzes into life with a turn of the dinky ignition key, and with first gear easy to find with the handily-placed lever it’s time to experience the full force of that 13bhp. And the Isetta proves to be surprisingly nippy off the line. 

You won’t set any speed records – with just three wheels it isn’t tempting to try – but it is easy to keep up with the flow of traffic. The short gearing makes the most of the available power. 

The steering is light and accurate too, and any fears of instability are soon dispelled after a few miles behind the wheel. Interestingly, left-hand drive models are considered better in this respect as the weight of the driver balances that of the engine which is mounted on the off-side. 

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW ISETTA

Engine                                    298cc/1-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  13bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 11lb ft@4600rpm

Top speed                                59mph

0-60mph                                  N/A

Consumption                            65mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The first thing to check for on any Isetta is corrosion. The dreaded tin worm can attack the wings and wheel arches, as well as the large front door. Repair panels are available but fitting them can be a fiddly job, despite the general simplicity of the car. Check the door hinges for wear and also the condition of the glass and its rubbers. A new front screen is around £260 from specialists, but refitting the sliding side windows can be a tricky task. Lastly, check the condition of the folding sunroof as this can crack and leak with age. Ensure it moves smoothly on its runners– it acts as the escape hatch should the front door be blocked so you’ll want to be sure it is working.

ENGINE

Engines were 250cc or 300cc, the latter BMW R27 motorcycle unit being the most common. The iron block/aluminium head unit is generally robust but there are a few things to watch for here. Cooling is by a fan driven by the Dynastart unit so make sure this is working and that the metal shroud around the engine is in place – overheating can occur if it is missing. That overheating can also lead to an inherent problem with these engines which is breakage of the two-piece valves which will ruin an engine. One-piece items are sensible upgrades. 

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox is a four-speed plus reverse unit and is generally reliable. Any difficulty in selecting gears can be due to perished rubber grommets in the linkage and these are cheap and easy to replace, so worth checking here first before assuming the worst. Drive to the single rear wheel is via a shaft from the gearbox and a duplex chain, and as long as the chain case oil levels are maintained shouldn’t give problems. A replacement chain is fairly cheap as are the rubber drive couplings which perish and break-up over time – a vibration at speed indicates these are in need of renewal.

The rest of the running gear is straightforward and trouble-free with regular maintenance. Replacing worn bushes or joints in the steering linkages is fairly cheap and straightforward, though it is worth checking for movement in the column itself as the support bush can wear. The drum brakes or suspension shouldn’t give problems though the cost of a thorough overhaul will soon add-up, so factor this in to the asking price if work is required. A conscientious previous owner should have kept on top of the regular greasing of items such as the kingpins and steering shaft so it is worth checking for signs of fresh grease.

INTERIOR

There is little to go wrong with the interior, so just check the overall condition. Ensure that the rubber cover over the battery is in place as this is mounted below the seat and a nasty shock will ensue if the seat springs make contact!

OUR VERDICT

If you’re after a classic car, and have a burning desire to buy something a bit different, then the Isetta bubble car will almost certainly fit the bill. Small, light and economical, this tiny BMW could have been made for today’s crowded roads and you’ll be guaranteed to draw a crowd when you park. 

The Isetta is mechanically simple and easy to look after; it consists of a lightweight steel body mated to a single-cylinder motorbike-derived engine. Over 160,000 examples were made in its 10-year production run and there are still plenty available today; they have a dedicated following too. Owning a bubble car really is a fun way to scratch that classic car itch without breaking the bank and there are fans all over the world as well as great club support. 

The Isetta is a tiny car with a huge personality and that more than makes up for any performance or handling deficiencies. Buy carefully and it could well be the most fun you’ve had behind the wheel for many a year.

Simplicity and ease of use are real pluses in the Isetta’s favour and the fun-factor is a bonus too. Despite the tiny dimensions you do need to buy carefully as the restoration costs will soon mount if you land yourself with a neglected example. Mechanical work is fairly straightforward so finding a rot-free example is the key.

RILEY ELF & WOLSELEY HORNET REVIEW

These plush Mini siblings make superb classics, though the usual Mini pitfalls still apply

The usual Mini fun-factor is in full effect. That means super-direct steering, uncannily sharp direction changes and a steering wheel held at a rather unusual angle. Mk1s and 2s have the old ‘magic wand’ gearlever that seems to go up and down rather than back and forth. A remote lever was fitted from 1966 and offers greater accuracy and a shorter throw. Mk1s have less power. Mk2s have more urge and taller gearing, so are less raucous at motorway speeds. They’re not overly quick, but that’s fine, as you rarely need to slow down much for bends. The ride still has the fabled Mini bounce, even the ‘wet’ ones, but on smooth roads, there is still very little out there to touch one for cornering joy. 

---

VITAL STATISTICS

Riley Elf MKII/III

Engine                                    998cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  38bhp@5250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 52lb ft@2700rpm

Top speed                                78mph

0-60mph                                  24sec

Consumption                            35-40mpg 

---

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Bodywork is by far the most important consideration. Much of the structure is standard Mini, which means rot can strike pretty much anywhere. Parts availability is generally good, but the front panel is unique to the Elf/Hornet and a replacement is £330. It is possible to modify one from a normal Mini – but only if you’re skilled. Look for corrosion sneaking into the seams between panels. Any rot you can see hints at much worse beneath the surface. As well as the seams, rot can strike around the headlamps.

Watch for corrosion around the scuttle and windscreen. The Elf was the first Mini to have winding windows, but later door skins fit OK. Make sure the mechanism works – handles for the Mk3 are brittle and hard to find. Check the sill and then check the footwells for dampness. If allowed, lift the carpet for a thorough check. The low height of the cars makes checking the underside difficult. You need to be wary though – restoring an Elf/Hornet’s body can easily result in thousands of pounds of expenditure due to the all-welded construction. Clamber into the rear and give the inner wheelarches a good shove, either side of the rear seat, too – another common rot spot.

ENGINE

Parts availability is such that most mechanical issues are easily overcome. The Mk1 had the 848cc unit, while the Mk2 and Mk3 had 998cc. Engines will get smoky with age and wear, but can soldier on for a good while before an overhaul is required. Rattly timing chains are annoying rather than dangerous. Radiators and the block can silt up, so check the state of the coolant and keep an eye on the temperature gauge. The gearbox is a weakness, living as it does in the sump of the engine. Watch for failing synchromesh (not fitted to first until mid-1968) and excessive noise suggesting a rebuild is required. Oil leaks are fairly standard, but be wary of anything excessive.

RUNNING GEAR

The rear wings are unique to these cars, and you can’t get new ones. Therefore, you need to check carefully for damage and any bodgery. There is an extension piece welded to the boot floor to extend it, so check carefully for rot in this area. Be aware that while the boot is larger, the hinges sink down into the load area and hamper useable space. You really need to get underneath to check the state of the rear subframe. The front tends to get protected by engine oil leaks but the rear can corrode readily. Budget on £800 if you pay a specialist to buy and fit one for you, possibly slightly more for a ‘wet’ car.

Chromework should all be in good condition, or present on a project car. Some of it is available new, but other bits will need hours of scouring autojumbles. Note that the exhaust is extended too, though bits are still plentiful. 

BRAKES

All ‘Elfnets’ had all-drum brakes, but stopping power should still be pretty good. Discs can be fitted, but must be Cooper specification to allow use of the standard 10-inch wheels. Uprated drums are also available. The steering is typically Mini-direct and should be entirely free of play. From 1964, the cars were hydrolastic or ‘wet.’ Check the pipework for leaks. The ride should be slightly smoother than the ‘dry’ cars. Some may have been converted to ‘dry’ when problems have arisen. Watch for clicking CV joints on tight turns.

INTERIOR

Interiors are quite plush, and £1000 can easily be absorbed during a retrim. Seat facings are leather, though backs and sides are usually vinyl. Check the wood dashboard for cracks and delamination. 

---

OUR VERDICT

The Elf and Hornet are easily forgotten in a sea of Minis, but they deserve recognition. They’re just as much fun to drive, but have an exclusive feel, with their cute bustles offering a bit more boot space – never a bad thing with a Mini. Inside, they lack the starkness of early Minis and are very pleasantly appointed. 

RILEY RM REVIEW

Pre-war looks married to post-war road manners. Here's how to buy a peach of a Riley RM, not a lemon.

It may look old school with those running boards and exposed wings, but the Riley RM was Britain's first new post-war car that wasn't just a rehashed Thirties design. As a result, these stylish saloons are surprisingly modern to drive, with their twin-cam engines, torsion bar front suspension and rack-and-pinion steering.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Rotten steel and timber are common, so scrutinise the base of each A- and B-post closely, together with the rear window surround, sills and roof frame. All these are timber, and in the case of the roof it can be tricky working out what's going on as it's covered in vinyl cloth. Underneath is a perforated steel panel topped with wadding covered in hessian. This absorbs moisture, rotting the structure beneath and the vinyl cloth shrinks with age, aloowing water in and accelerating the deterioration. However, degradation of the cxar's structure and fixtures can look like shrinkage, so be sure to press on the various pillars as well as the main roof panel, feeling for any crumbling below.

The timber structure is clothed in steel panels, although some bonnet tops are aluminium and - periodically until 1953 - so were some bonnet side panels. All 2 1/2 litre cars got steel panels here while 1 1/2 models got aluminium or steel. Start by looking at the door bottoms and C-posts, then inspect the boot aperture and floor edges, along with the spare wheel compartment near edge.

Oily bits

Two different four-cylinder twin-cam engines were fitted to the RM, displacing either 1496cc or 2443cc. Cars with the smaller unit have a dark blue grille badge, 2 1/2 litre cars got a light blue badge. Checks for the usual wear-related rattles and knocks, while blue exhaustsmoke under acceleration points to oil being burned. The oil should be changed every 1500-3000 miles; keep an eye on the pressure gauge to see how healthy the engine is. Expect 40psi at 40mph on a 1 1/2 litre car, or 30psi on a 2 1/2 litre. Signifcantly lower readings suggest wear; much higher, and the oilways are clogged up or the relief valve is set incorrectly.

Check 2 1/2 litre cars for a blown head gasket and ensure it doesn't run hot once up to temperature - it could be a build up of sludge in the block. A high-gain radiator is not necessarily the answer due to the fan design, although many cars have one by now. If yours doesn't, budget on spending £150 to have the radiator re-cored. Also check the coolant-heated inlet manifold on a 2 1/2litre engine, whcih is prone to a leaking frost-damaged water jacket, whether the system is drained or not, leading to leaks. The four-speed manual gearbox is strong but a discernible rumbling signifies a worn layshaft. Also listen out for grumbling bearings, while a loud whine suggests tired gears. All cars feature a floor-mounted gear change, apart from early Roadsters (RMC), which have a column change. These contain a mass of linkages - wear here creates a vague gear change. Rebushing everything is likely to work wonders and it's aeasy to do although you'll need to have everything made in a machine shop first. Adjustment of the clutch rod mechanism can be fiddly, which is why clutch drag is so common, so check for slipping and judder as you pull away. This is common on the 2 1/2 litre cars, signifying tired engine mountings or inappropriate steady cable rubber, but replacements are cheap and easy to fit. Oil leaks from RMA and RMB rear axles are not uncommon, ao make sure there isn't lubricant all over the car's underside. Pulling to one side under braking can signify oil contamination to the rear brakes.

The steering rack is durable, but a new rack from the club (£174 without the pinion) should cure any excess play. The suspension lasts well if maintained properly, but there are eight greasing points including the track rod ends (plus one on post-1952 models' steering housing) which are sometimes neglected. Check for play in thje kingpins by jacking the car up at the front, putting a heel bar under the tyre, then looking for excess movement sa the wheel is moved up and down. The rear leaf springs also sag with age, while the lever arm damper lower links on pre-1951 2 1/2 litre cars can become disconnected, although repair is straightforward. Telescopic dampers were used from late 1951 and rarely give trouble. Rileys used a hydromechanical braking system until the introduction of the RME and RMF in 1952, at which point it was replaced by a fully hydraulic setup. Both systems use drums all round and while the earlier system is well up to the job, the later setup is even better. Both systems are reliable, so just make the usual checks for leaks, wear and poor adjustment.

Trim and electrics

Look for stitching that's falling apart, tears in the leather and delaminating wood. A professional retrim is very costly. The club recommends kits from Woolies to revive a tired interior on a DIY basis.

There's a fair bit of exterior brightwork, but the only real problems here involv pitting and missing items. A fair bit of trim is still available used, however, and doesn't cost the earth.

OUR VERDICT

Easy to maintain yourself on a DIY basis and capable of a useful turn of speed, the RM is also affordable and widely available, as well as enjoying a level of parts availability that's little short of astonishing. If you want pre-war elegance with post-war practicality, you've found the perfect car.

ROLLS-ROYCE 20/25 REVIEW

The Rolls-Royce 20/25 entered production in 1929 and was intended to appeal to a new market for Rolls-Royce. The 20/25, the replacement to the popular but ageing Rolls-Royce 20HP, was intended to be a small 'town' car. It was intended to bring people outside of Rolls-Royce's existing customer base into Rolls-Royce dealers, those of a slightly lower class than the average Rolls-Royce customer, who drove themselves ('owner drivers' as Rolls-Royce called them). However the brands prestige image in the public's eye didn't seem to allow a lower-class car and as such the car was still bought mainly by the chauffeur-driven upper classes. Powered by an enlarged version of the 6 cylinder overhead valve engine used in the 20HP, displacement was at 3699cc and the engine used a single carurettor. The car used a four-speed gearbox with the gear changes being done with the drivers right hand, as was the norm at the time. The car featured the classic Rolls-Royce radiator grill with the triangular top and the famous 'Spirit of Ecstasy' logo. However this grill used a thermostat to automatically rotate the slats in the grill, allowing more air when needed, quite a novelty at the time. Although the car's large engine allowed a top speed of 75mph, quite impressive at the time, most owners had expensive, after-market limousine coach bodies added, hampering performance. It is for this reason an original build 20/25 would now be considered extremely desirable.

ROLLS-ROYCE 20HP REVIEW

Considered by many as the jewel of pre-war Rolls-Royce models, the Rolls-Royce 20hp reflected no compromise in the company's high engineering standards, its o.h.v. 3,127cc engine offering smoothness, silence and performance befitting the reputation earned by the Silver Ghost. Intended for the now fashionable owner-driver, the 20hp was a great success for the company throughout the 1920s in a period of uncertainty following the Great War, some 2,940 chassis being produced from 1922-29. Modifications over the seven year production run from 1922 included the introduction of four forward speeds, right-hand gear change, and also four wheel servo brakes which were adopted from 1924.