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ROLLS-ROYCE CARMARGUE REVIEW

The Rolls Royce Camargue was based on the Silver Shadow platform, however built in London by coach maker Mulliner Park Ward. It shared an engine and gearbox with the Silver Shadow and Corniche, with a 6750cc V-8 and three speed automatic gearbox. Where it differs from its sister car is that it was designed by Pininfarina.  The car was produced from 1975 to 1986 with 534 being built in total.  The final 12 made were for the U.S market, and were fitted with modern luxuries such as phones and cd players. 

The Camargue was famed for pioneering a complex dual level climate control system which was used in later Rolls Royce cars. The Camargue was aimed at being the most luxury Rolls Royce, with additional options and personalised interiors being the norm.

The price matched this, as this was the most expensive Rolls Royce in the line-up at the time. A one off Bentley Camargue was commissioned for one customer as well, sharing everything with the Rolls Royce bar the name. It was not always well received though, as it ranked 38th in Richard Porters "Crap Cars" and the 98th ugliest car in a poll by readers of the Daily Telegraph.

BMW 3-SERIES E21 REVIEW

The BMW 3-Series E21 was produced from ’75 to ’83, although all but the entry-level variety stopped production in ’82. In that time, BMW built 1,370,000 of them.





The first 3 Series, or E21, was a two-door. Styling was by Paul Bracq, fresh from the first 5 Series, and the two cars had a strong resemblance. From 1977 to 1982, there were targa-top ‘Hardtop-Cabriolets’ by Stuttgart-based coachbuilder Baur, who built many BMW convertibles, but only about 3000 were sold.
The first engines were four-cylinders, with an injected 2-litre in the top-model 320i. Two years later came a 2-litre six-cylinder to make a new top-model 320 and, in 1978, a 2.3-litre six which created the highly desirable 323i. From ’80, the 316 went from 1.6 to 1.8 litres, and gained in the torque department. The UK otherwise didn’t get the 1.8-litre engine, nor the detuned 1.6-litre, run-out 315 model.
Suspension was by MacPherson struts at the front and semi-trailing arms at the rear, along with unassisted ZF rack and pinion steering. You got ventilated front discs with rear drums and a servo, but there were rear discs on the quickest 323i.

The first thing strikes you when you get behind the wheel is how the centre console is angled towards you. It gives the car a tight-fitting feel, like a pair of gloves – but the feeling isn’t one of being cramped.
There’s a certain sporting rasp about the four-cylinder engines which doesn’t translate into as much urge as you’d expect. Even so, the later 1.8-litre 316 accelerates pretty well. The sixes are a totally different experience: smooth and keen to get on with the job, they are really great engines of their time.
The Achilles’ heel of these small BMWs was always what Motor magazine called "snap oversteer". It’s nothing to worry about, but the semi-trailing arm rear suspension is subject to sudden camber changes on the limit – if you discover this on a wet road, you could lose the car. It’s not helped by a wooden feel to the steering at high speeds. Otherwise, the handling is little short of admirable for a mid-1970s saloon.
Early cars mostly have four-speed ’boxes. From ’79, there was a five-speed with overdrive top, and a close-ratio five-speed that was rarely specified. There were autos too, but these were disappointing.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1766cc/4-cyl/SOHC 

Power90bhp@5500rpm 

Torque103lb ft@4000rpm

Top Speed101mph

0-60mph12.4sec

ECONOMY34mpg

Gearbox4-speed manual

MoT11 months

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

1    One reason why this best-seller is pretty uncommon these days is corrosion. The cars were not undersealed at the factory, and only fastidious owners paid extra to have the job done when the cars were new. They rust – and how! – so your first check should be for the more obvious signs. Look at the rear wheelarches, front wings, door bottoms and sills, and the rear valance under the bumper. Rust gets hold at the front corner under the side windows, and under the rear windows, too.

2    Having checked all the usual rot spots, now turn your attention to the less obvious places. Carefully check the seams of the bonnet and boot, the corners of the main floor, the boot floor, around the jacking points and around the rear suspension towers. Springs have been known to punch through. No rust? You’ve found a good one.
3    On the gearbox front, don’t worry about some whining from the lower gears. That’s normal. However, the clutch hydraulics are prone to leaks, so it’s wise to check for fluid on the carpet and on the foot pedals. If the car’s an automatic, make sure the changes are smooth. Surges and lurches suggest worn friction components in the clutches, so if other things are urging you to buy the car, budget for a replacement gearbox.

4    The original Solex carbs often gave trouble, and many owners replaced them with Webers. The problem was particularly acute on six-cylinder cars with the 4A1 carburettor – although that might be because owners expected more from their engines than the four-cylinder models. The fuel injection is a Bosch K-Jetronic, which is a mechanical system and not too hard to diagnose and fix if it plays up. 

5    On four-cylinder engines, listen for top-end noise. Water pumps usually last for 70,000 miles, and you’ll hear one that’s on the way out. Cam chains wear, too, and you’ll hear that warning ringing sound. Poor performance could be caused by worn cam lobes, which is a common fault on high-mileage engines.

6    Six-cylinder engines, especially in the 323i, were often thrashed. The 323i in particular has a reputation for cracking its cylinderhead, so make the usual checks for water in the oil or otherwise unexplained water loss. Sixes also had a belt-driven overhead camshaft. This isn’t particularly troublesome, but check when it was last changed.

7    If there are odd noises from the front suspension, suspect the anti-roll bar buses – they tend to shear after hard use. If the steering feels notchy, then you’d better look at the steering rack.

8    The braking system doesn’t give a lot of trouble, but it’s worth checking the remote linkage to the servo. The servo was always on the left, even on RHD cars, and the linkage can corrode. The 323i models had rear discs (all the others had drums), and on a car which hasn’t been used for a long time you’ll probably find that these have rusted very badly. 

9    With the Baur Hardtop-Cabriolets, check that all the roof components are present. There should be a removable section over the front seats and a collapsible fabric section at the rear. Check the integrity of the rear window, and double-check the seals and clamps. If the vinyl pillar trim has been damaged, so budget for professional replacement.

10 Options you can add from scrappers are Mahle multi-spoke alloys, a limited-slip diff, sports suspension and Recaro seats.

OUR VERDICT

An E21 3 Series may not be the most glamorous of 1970s saloons, but it makes a great starter classic. It’s affordable both to buy and run, and will cope easily with modern traffic. However, it’s very important to buy the very best, because current prices don’t justify expensive repairs. A full-scale restoration would have to be a labour of love.
The four-cylinder 316 was the best-seller, followed by the six-cylinder 320, so these are the models that will be most readily available. It’s certainly worth going for the post-September 1979 316 if you can find one, because the 1.8-litre engine gives more torque and is correspondingly more flexible, although power and top speed are the same as with the older 1.6-litre engine.
As a 323i isn’t quick by modern standards, we’d go for a six-cylinder 320 which hasn’t been treated as a boy-racer’s delight.

ROLLS-ROYCE 25/30HP WRAITH SPORTS SALOON REVIEW

The Rolls-Royce 25/30hp model, the new small Rolls-Royce, was first exhibited at Olympia in October 1936, and although borrowing many of its design features and retaining the finest qualities of the exceptionally successful 20/25hp model, it now featured a significantly enlarged engine displacing 4,257cc. Following this model, the Wraith had a production run from 1938-39, just over a year, manufacturing interrupted by the outbreak of hostilities. A lineal descendant of the 3.1-litre 20hp small Rolls-Royce, the Wraith was produced alongside the V12 7.3-litre Phantom III, with just 492 Wraiths produced. Introduced to this model is the use of independent front suspension, a scaled down version of that fitted to the Phantom III. De-luxe models had a dropping division and heater, while all came with built-in hydraulic jacks actuated by a hand pump under the front passenger seat. The rarest of all Rolls-Royces and mentioned in Tom C Clarkes book The Rolls-Royce Wraith, The Rolls-Royce 25/30 & Wraith by Bernard L King, the 25/30 Wraith Register, and known to the RREC too, this is indeed a very special Rolls-Royce 25/30hp Wraith.

ROLLS-ROYCE CORNICHE REVIEW

The Rolls-Royce Corniche, and its Bentley sister car, are perhaps two of the most desirable luxury coupés of their era. Blessed with gorgeous styling, effortless performance, and more than enough lounging room, they ooze class and look good in all of the smartest locations. 

Interestingly, the car was launched before its name, appearing as the Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow two-door saloon in 1966. Its huge additional cost over the car it was based upon was down to its coachbuilt body, handcrafted by Mulliner Park Ward, and with a build time of six months. 

The following year, the successful Convertible debuted at the Frankfurt motor show, effectively ending the serious development of this model. In 1970 power was upped – in comparison with the Silver Shadow – distancing saloon and ‘coupé’, and also helping justify the premium. A year later, the cars become known as the Corniche, and remained so until 1995.

The Corniche gained more positive rack and pinion steering in 1977, and independent rear suspension with self-levelling in 1979 – both systems would later find their way into the Silver Spirit. The hard-top Corniche was dropped in March 1981, but the convertible powered on for a further 14 years after a total production run of 3239 – a huge success. 

In 1995 a Corniche S was introduced to the line-up, with a turbo being bolted on to the already ample engine. Its production stopped in 2001 as Rolls-Royce and Bentley became separate companies, with Bentley being sold to VW and Rolls-Royce sold to BMW.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine  - 6750cc/V8/OHV 

Power  - c.230bhp

Torque  - c.300lb ft

Maximum speed   - 120mph

0-60mph - 9.6sec

Fuel consumption  -  12-16mpg

Transmission - RWD, 3-spd auto 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Avoiding the rusty ones. Most Corniches that do succumb suffer from cosmetic rust, but it’s worth paying close attention to the windscreen seal, especially around the convertible hood, as this will lead to damp carpets and soundproofing. Also have a look at the front wings and rear wheelarches, as well as the outer sills.

The inside story If the interior gets damp, it can play havoc – and not just because ultimately, it will lead to a rusting floorpan. You’ll end up with discolouring and lifting the lacquer on wood trim, and although repair is possible, removing some of the trim is nigh-on impossible without specialist knowledge. 

KEEP ON TOP OF COOLANT Rolls-Royce’s V8 engine is legendarily smooth. But to keep it that way, you need to give it regular coolant changes to avoid internal sediment build-up. This mostly affects the two rearmost cylinder liners, which clogs the coolant channel. Ultimately the liner distorts, and you end up with ‘piston pick-up’, identified by heavy knocking sounds immediately after starting. 

Checking your liners Also check for liner seal leaks by looking at sight holes in the side of the engine block. If coolant is dripping, the upper liner seal is leaking, and if it’s oil, then it’s leaking from the two lower liner seals. Drips are common – fluids running out are not. 

CHECK IT’S IN GEAR Low oil level in the GM400 three-speeder can force air into the system, which will lead to oil starvation. Regular filter changes will alleviate this.

IS IT LEVELLING? The hydraulic suspension is expensive to fix – complete replacement units are available, but new seals may fix the problem. Check it’s level, and if the car’s sat low, the springs can be removed and shimmed to regain the correct height. 

Does it stop? Lightly-used examples will suffer from binding brakes. Flexible pipes also corrode internally and allow fluid through them but don’t let it back, locking the brakes on. Check discs are fully floating, they are very expensive and take 10 hours to replace. Reason enough to properly inspect them.

OUR VERDICT

Driving a Corniche is a wonderfully decadent and pleasurable experience. Yes, it’s not for shrinking violets, as you will get ogled at – but as it’s a classic, you’ll also get lots of goodwill from other drivers. 

These cars are superbly engineered, and will last a lifetime. Unlike the Shadow, the market isn’t cluttered with poorly maintained examples, and that’s a good thing. A rough Rolls-Royces can empty your bank account alarmingly quickly – so, follow the guide and grab a great one.

 

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM I REVIEW

After 19 years' production, the 40/50hp Silver Ghost model, 'the best car in the world, was replaced by the 'New Rolls-Royce Phantom'. By this time Rolls-Royce was up against strong competition, and the new model had to exceed the standard of refinement already set. The company opted for an overhead valve and longer stroke engine of 7,668cc, this time using a single detachable cylinder head over two cylinder blocs. With the use of Rolls-Royce's own very effective twin-jet carburrettor, power was increased from 70bhp to 100bhp, a 44% increase over the Silver Ghost. Available in either 12' or 12'6'' long wheelbase, the ladder chassis followed the same principles as that of the Silver Ghost, while suspension was by semi-elliptic front and cantilever rear springs. With almost three tons of machinery capable of 80mph, faster than most cars of the day, greatly improved braking efficiency was achieved via power-assisted brakes operating on all four wheels using Rolls-Royce's own transmission powered servo, made under licence from Hispano Suiza, but also featuring operation while in reverse gear. Soon after 'The Autocar' reported that 'the much improved acceleration and maximum speed of 80mph has not been brought about at the expense of the traditional Rolls-Royce silence and smoothness'.

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM II REVIEW

Launched in 1929, unlike its predecessor which inherited its underpinnings from the Silver Ghost, the Rolls-Royce Phantom II employed an entirely new chassis, semi-elliptic rear springs replacing the cantilever springing of the Ghost and Phantom I. The new low-slung frame, with its radiator set well back, enabled coachbuilders to clothe the new car in the modern idiom, creating sleeker designs than the more upright ones in the past. The six-cylinder 7,668cc engine was built in-unit with the clutch and gearbox, and although similar in dimensions to that of the Rolls-Royce Phantom I engine, it came in for extensive revision, the combustion chambers re-designed, the cylinder head now of the cross-flow type, with improvements made to the manifolds, performance being greatly enhanced. Road-tested in 1929, a short-wheelbase Phantom II recorded a maximum speed ''well over 80 mph (130 km/hr), that well-known 'purveyor of horseless carriages to the nobility and gentry', Bunty Scott-Moncrieff later declaring the Phantom II to be a ''magic carpet, wafting you silently''.

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM III REVIEW

Having manufactured V12 aero engines, the choice of a V12 for the Phantom III from 1936 was entirely logical, Cadillac and Hispano Suiza joining this trend. Such was the smoothness, around 1960 Bill Boddy, Motor Sport's editor, rated the 7.3 litre Phantom III as the 'most impressive' of the thirty or so cars he drove in the previous year. The Phantom III with 142'' chassis, good for 85mph, represents an important milestone in Rolls-Royce history, being the first model to be equipped with independent front suspension. Of the 727 chassis made, around 300 still exist today.

 

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM V REVIEW

Rolls-Royce's new limousine model, the long-wheelbase Rolls-Royce Phantom V effectively replaced both the royalty / heads of state-only Phantom IV and the Silver Wraith. The latter's relatively short wheelbase had made it all but impossible for coachbuilders to provide adequate boot space in a comfortable seven-seater, a shortcoming addressed by the new Phantom V. Built on a much modified and strengthened Silver Cloud chassis, enjoying the same 12' 1'' wheelbase as the Phantom IV, the new Phantom measured 19' 10'', some 11'' longer than the Phantom IV, enabling coachbuilders to combine the desirable qualities of spacious interior accommodation with generous boot space and graceful lines. A lower final drive ratio ensured that the new car would match its stablemates for acceleration, with over 100mph still possible.Rolls-Royce's in-house coachbuilder Mulliner Park Ward produced a preferred seven-passenger limousine coachwork for the Phantom V, the usual upholstery to front being in leather, also listed as an option to rear, along with West of England Cloth. A cocktail cabinet was standard while all-round electric windows and separate air conditioning to front and rear were among preferred options.

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM VI REVIEW

Rolls-Royce Phantom VI Seven Passenger Limousine Coachwork by Mulliner, Park Ward Introduced at the 1968 Motor Show and listed as the world's most expensive car, the mighty Phantom VI was an exclusive cost-no-object car for a limited and discriminating clientele, indeed a Phantom VI was the motor industry's Silver Jubilee gift to Her Majesty the Queen in 1977. A logical development of the Phantom V which it supplanted, the Phantom VI retained the superlative MP-W bodywork, while replacing the old 6,230cc Silver Cloud III engine of its predecessor with the more powerful 6,750cc Silver Shadow V8. This unit was upgraded with full factory-fitted air-conditioning, with separate units in the scuttle and boot, serving front and rear compartments respectively, the air inlet grille on the scuttle being the principle external difference between the two Phantoms, along with new rear light clusters. Rolls-Royce Phantom VI bodies were coachbuilt in the Park Ward tradition with hand beaten aluminium panels using wooden panel bucks and rollers, pinned and clinched to a galvanised steel and alloy frame.

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER GHOST REVIEW

Produced from 1907 to 1925, the Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost is one of the most instantly recognisable cars ever manufactured. Powered by a 7428cc, six cylinder, 40/50hp engine it had a four speed gearbox with overdrive. An unconventional flexible radiator mounting, a Royce designed carburettor and attractive construction and machining are prominent in this car. The car got its name because of the silver paint and silver-plated bright work which along with the mechanicals make it so iconic. 

Autocar noted that the car gave the impression ‘of being wafted through the landscape.’ 

This car was not just known for being quiet though, it was also very reliable. Royal Automobile Club founder Claude Johnson successfully travelled 2,000 miles between London and Glasgow without incident. After the drive, the RAC assessed the car to measure the wear. The cost of the replacement parts added up to less than £3. The Times described it as ‘the best car in the world’. 

Lawrence of Arabia was a famous fan of the Silver Ghost declaring that ‘a Rolls in the desert is above rubies.’

He used a fleet of armoured Rolls-Royce Silver Ghosts in operations against Turkish forces and in one day managed to destroy two enemy command posts, blowing up a bridge and ripping up many miles of railway line. The Silver Ghost also featured in many more conflicts including both World Wars. 

It was used in WW1 and WW2 to great success thanks to Winston Churchill. He was a big admirer of these ‘land ships’ and insisted that Silver Ghosts were modified to incorporate armour and made ready for war. 

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER CLOUD REVIEW

For sheer, imposing elegance, a Roll-Royce Silver Cloud (or equivalent Bentley) takes some beating. But it also takes some buying too.

For many enthusiasts, the Silver Cloud represents the end of an era – the last of the ‘mainstream’ traditionally-styled Rolls-Royces constructed on a separate chassis. The following Silver Shadow may be the most accessible of the marque – practically a Rolls-Royce for the people – but the Cloud and its almost identical Bentley S counterpart retain an exclusivity and dignity that links the type more with what came before than what succeeded it. This is despite it adopting the V8 engine that would go on to power future generations of Rolls-Royces through to 1998 and is still used by Bentleys today.

In looks, the Silver Cloud’s flowing lines and palatial presence are distinctively old school. Launched in 1955, it was somewhat old-fashioned even for the mid-1950s, when many manufacturers were turning to monocoque construction. But Rolls-Royce went with what it knew best and retained a separate chassis. This meant that the standard pressed steel body could be used or a number of coachbuilt creations bolted on instead.

The first cars had 4.9-litre six-cylinder engines, but in 1959, Rolls-Royce’s all-aluminium 6.25-litre V8 unit was dropped in, creating the smoothly magnificent Cloud II. The real revelation of the new engine was not its power but how quiet it was – V8s are generally quite raucous by nature, but when enveloped in the Cloud’s expansive body, occupants could still hear the clock ticking at 60mph, a characteristic the company enthusiastically trumped about what it still called ‘The best car in the world’.

A hint of radical changes just around the corner was revealed with the Cloud III of 1962, with its double headlamp units. These caused quite some controversy at a time when the 1960s had yet to completely start swinging, yet were undoubtedly more effective than the single lamps they replaced. They also managed to subtly update the looks without the need for major body surgery. 

And that’s how the Cloud and S stayed up until the end of production in 1965, when the Shadow came along and completely changed the game. In doing so, it guaranteed the Cloud a selectness that has only grown stronger over five decades.  

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                                 6230cc/V8/OHV
POWER                                  Adequate
TORQUE                                Adequate
MAXIMUM SPEED                   116mph
0-60MPH                               11.5sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION              12mpg
TRANSMISSION                     4-spd auto
HEIGHT                                 1631mm (63.5in)
WIDTH                                  1880mm (74in)
LENGTH                                 5339mm (210.2in)
WHEELBASE                           3124mm (123in)
WEIGHT                                 2078.4kg (4578lb)

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODY SPOTTING

First things first – are you looking at what you think you’re looking at? Rolls-Royce bonnets have a flat front edge, Bentleys a curved one. If the radiator grille and the bonnet don’t match up, expect identity theft. Doors, bonnets and bootlids are aluminium, so don’t corrode except for any areas where steel meets the metal. Elsewhere, rust can attack the complicated four-section sills, especially towards the rear, front wing edges adjacent to the doors, wing stay, wheelarch lips (all four), around the headlamps and front sidelights, and the body mounts. The lower rear wings are also vulnerable. Leaking battery acid can attack around the offside bumper mounting point and chomp into the chassis.

The chrome radiator vents will suffer if they get chipped by stones, and the hubcaps are vulnerable to rust…which is a shame, as they cost over £250 each to replace.

 

POWER HOUSE

Two engines types were fitted – a six-cylinder unit and a V8. The V8 is packed into the engine bay, meaning it’s trickier to work on – for example, changing the spark plugs involves removing a wheel, then a panel to get at them. That takes three hours – something to consider before buying.

If an engine (whether six or eight) has been conscientiously serviced – every 6000 miles – it’s capable of upwards of 200,000 miles. Check the oil pressure – 25lb (or in the white band on the gauge) when warm is a healthy sign. Hydraulic tappets on the V8 engines can be noisy when cold, but so should quieten down when warm.

Expect some blue smoke from the exhaust, but it shouldn’t be excessive. You should also expect some black stuff to be weeping from the rocker cover gaskets, the front and rear crankshaft seals and cylinder liner seals, but again, not too much. Basically, these engines aren’t that oil-tight but you shouldn’t have to top up the oil more than a pint every 500 miles.

Look for signs of head gasket issues such as water in the oil and vice versa and, on your test drive, make sure the big engine doesn’t run too hot.    

 

TRANSMISSION VAMP
The General Motors-sourced four-speed automatic transmissions last well, but the smoothness of the changes can suffer with age, leading to notchiness. Make sure that that kickdown works properly too and listen for any noisiness from the differential, which will start to protest with age. When starting the car from cold, make sure there’s no slippage, otherwise reconditioning may be called for, which will run into the thousands.   

 

KEEP US IN SUSPENSE
Drum brakes are fitted all around, which work well enough at speed but not at low velocities, due to the way the gearbox-driven servo operates. You can see the condition of the brake fluid in the glass reservoirs in the engine bay – if black, it means the car hasn’t been looked after religiously. If the brakes still feel ineffective at speed, then it could be because there are leaks from the seals. From 1957 onwards, cars got twin brake master cylinders, which means a bit more peace of mind. A strange groaning noise just before the car stops suggests wrong brake linings have been fitted.   

Power steering is desirable, as these are heavy machines on radial tyres. However, do look for leaks, especially from the hydraulic ram under the front bumper.  

If an example has tired suspension, it will sag, usually towards the front. This means that new springs will be required. The suspension needs regular lubrication, and if skipped, will start to wear quickly. Areas that will soon suffer are the front wishbone kingpins at the front and suspension pivot (fulcrum) components. Also feel for sloppy handling when on the move.   

 

THE INSIDE STORY

Electrics are usually pretty sound, but run through everything inside, especially the electric windows, as the motors are difficult to source. Often dodgy contacts are the main issues. Also try out the complicated heating and ventilation system, as putting it right is quite a pain if the matrix is blocked.

Obviously, these cars offer the highest levels of luxury inside, so don’t underestimate how much a tired wood and leather will cost to rectify – at least £10,000 for a professional job. Which is why you come across so many that are quite worn.  

OUR VERDICT

Don’t go into Silver Cloud ownership expecting an easy ride – at least not financially. These are expensive cars to buy and maintain, and if you shirk on the tasks, you’ll soon find your Cloud evaporating around you. However, if you’re prepared to spend the money the cars demand, then few vehicles give you such an enormous sense of prosperous well-being to drive. And they won’t be in the Shadow of anything…

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SHADOW REVIEW

The Silver Shadow is the epitome of luxury motoring, but buy carefully

The Rolls-Royce name always stood for unbeatable comfort and luxury, and the Silver Shadow delivers these attributes in spades. Settle into the gentleman’s club interior and there is a huge feel-good factor, and as you gaze down the bonnet to the iconic ‘Spirit of Ecstasy’ it’s hard not to feel a sense of real pride. Driving a Rolls has that effect somehow. 

On the road, the ride is a touch wallowy – Shadow II models handled more adeptly – but it doesn’t matter as you soon settle down to a sedate pace, gently guiding the delicately-rimmed wheel with your fingertips. There is enough poke if you want it though, a prod of the throttle causing the nose to rise majestically as the old girl gathers up her skirts, but frankly a scary thirst for fuel soon puts paid to those antics. Far better instead to relax, and enjoy the wonderful surroundings.

VITAL STATISTICS

Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow II

 

Engine                                    6750cc/V8/OHV

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  200bhp

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 250lb ft

 

Top speed                                115mph

 

0-60mph                                  10.9sec

 

Consumption                            14mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Terrifying restoration and repair costs makes sound bodywork a priority with the Silver Shadow. Well documented rot spots include the front wings, the rear wheel arches, the inner rear wings below the bumper, and the front/rear valances. You should also check for signs of reaction where the aluminium panels meet the steel monocoque, and look out for damp carpets – the floorpan is notoriously rust-prone. When you realise that complete sill replacement can attract a £3500 bill (for each side!), the need to be careful becomes clear. Many cars came with an ‘Everflex’ vinyl roof so ensure this isn’t peeling or bubbling – a possible sign of corrosion underneath.

 

ENGINE

Models up to 1970 used a 6.2-litre V8, but it’s the later 6.75-litre unit that’s most familiar. It’s an engine that can cover big miles with proper care, but there are some issues to be aware of. A lack of regular oil changes will sludge-up the hydraulic tappets and can contribute to cam-follower wear, and you need to watch for any signs of oil leaks or head gasket failure. Cracked exhaust manifolds are costly to put right, but perhaps most important is the need for correct levels of anti-freeze to be maintained. Combining with a build-up of sediment, lack of maintenance here can lead to serious problems with the cylinder liners. Evidence of ‘piston knock’ should ring alarm bells.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Early cars used a four-speed automatic gearbox, but the later GM three-speed unit is better and more reliable. The electric selector mechanism can play up with age though. You should also check for oil leaks and whining from the differential, and for knocks from worn universal joints. Check the ground for oil after your test drive.

The complex suspension system needs the same fastidious maintenance as the rest of the car. Leaks from corroded pipework and perished seals will require a costly overhaul, and the fluid needs regular changes too. Front ball joints can wear and need specialist knowledge to check properly, and it’s worth checking for signs of worn subframe bushes or corrosion around suspension mounting points. Signs of uneven tyre wear will need further investigation.

 

BRAKES

The braking system must be in tip-top condition if a £5000 overhaul bill is to be avoided. Seized brake calipers and corroded metal brake pipes over the rear subframe are known problems, while the flexible hoses need renewing periodically. There are mroe than 10 of them so ask when it was last done. Brake fluid leaks are a worry too, though a small weep from the distribution valves beneath the driver’s seat area is to be expected. Brake work can require the use of expensive specialist tools, so be wary of cars that haven’t received regular attention here. Make sure the brake warning lights on the dashboard illuminate correctly. Be aware, left hand wheels used left-hand threaded wheel nuts!

 


INTERIOR

The cabin uses only the best materials, so it’s vital to check for signs of wear or damage. Restoring or replacing the leather or the matched wood veneers is a job for the experts, and is expensive. Mustiness signals water ingress, and don’t be satisfied until you’ve checked that all the electrical items are present and correct – getting failed electric windows or seats working again will cost plenty. Inoperative air-conditioning is another wallet-buster so make sure it blows cold with no signs of water in the cabin from a leaking heater matrix. 

OUR VERDICT

There is huge pleasure to be had from owning a Rolls-Royce, and the Silver Shadow is no exception – the quality and luxury on offer are very beguiling. But never, ever be tempted to buy a cheap car that’s been run on a shoestring as bankruptcy is almost sure to follow. A sound, cherished car is definitely the way to go. We advise getting a specialist inspection.

BMW 628CSI REVIEW

In a nutshell? The BMW 628CSI belongs in your classic car garage... 

 

Karmann-styled like the preceding BMW 3.0CS/CSi/CSL, the new 600-series coupes debuted in 1976, featuring all-independent suspension, four-wheel disc brakes and power steering as standard. Automatic, and in 2.8-litre 184 bhp form, 60mph came up in just 8.5 seconds with 130mph top speed.

 

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SPIRIT REVIEW

Best suited to caring car owners

The Silver Spirit was available from 1980 to 1998, always with a 6.75-litre Rolls-Royce V8engine. There were multiple changes of spec in those 18 years, especially to engine power and suspension, but a late Spirit is recognisably the same car as an early one. As with all Rolls-Royce cars, these models offer a very special motoring experience as long as they have been properly maintained.

That experience is about wafting and gliding. It is not about powering through corners, although a Spirit offers surprisingly good dynamics when hustled along. Most important is to understand the car’s character before buying one, and to appreciate it as a work of automotive craftsmanship rather than just a lot of metal for your money. 

VITAL STATISTICS

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SPIRIT, 1988

 

Engine                                    6750cc/V8-cyl/OHV

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  238bhp@4000rpm

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 Not quoted

 

Top speed                                115mph

 

0-60mph                                  10.3 sec

 

Economy                                   14mpg

 

Gearbox                                    3-speed automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Despite top build quality, Silver Spirits do corrode. On the outside, any problems with the wheelarches (both front and rear) or the lower trailing edges of the front wings should be apparent. Repair panels are available, but it takes a skilled specialist to insert them seamlessly and match the paint. Look carefully at the sills and round the front bulkhead, too. Two-tones were available but not common.

Inside the car, lift up the front carpets and check the floorpans. Blocked aircon drain tubes and leaking windscreens seals are quite common, and water can sit under the carpets. Eventually, the floorpans rot. You can often smell impending trouble when you get down to carpet level!

Check the front spoiler for kerbing damage. Replacements for later cars are expensive. Underneath, check that the underseal is intact, and double-check places where it is not. Examine the mounting areas for the rear springs and rear suspension arms – and don’t be surprised to find corrosion under the boot floor.

ENGINE

The Rolls-Royce V8 was new in 1959 and therefore more than 20 years old when it reached the Spirit. It is an under-stressed engine, which means that major components go on almost indefinitely, but it is not bullet-proof.

Check the service history. Who has done the work, and how regularly? Regular maintenance is essential, and belts, hoses and fluids must all be changed at intervals to ensure tip-top running. A rough-sounding engine in a Spirit is a definite no-no: knocks suggest piston wear from corroded liners. Leaks can be bad news, although oil leaks from the sump area may be innocuous. Blowing exhaust manifolds will prove expensive. Overheating might not be serious, but finding out the cause could be costly. 

DIY maintenance is only for the skilled, whether it’s a carburettor engine (to mid-1986) or an injected one (Bosch K-Jetronic from 1987 MY).

RUNNING GEAR

Both the three-speed (to 1990) and later four-speed automatics are strong and generally trouble-free gearboxes. Changes should be barely perceptible. Listen for a whining back axle, which suggests a lack of maintenance.

The hydraulic self-levelling suspension is a complex. Don’t buy a car with suspension problems, because the cost of sorting it out will make your eyes water. Don’t try to work on it yourself; the high fluid pressures involved can cause injuries. Even the metal suspension parts need proper maintenance, and don’t imagine that changing a coil spring is a DIY job. To find out what you can and can’t do safely, join the RREC – the club runs maintenance weekends to show owners how to do the DIY-possible jobs on their cars.

Expect brake troubles on a car which has not been used for some time. These will range from rusty discs to dodgy hydraulics.

 

INTERIOR

Don’t lose your heart to a gorgeous-smelling, well-preserved cabin when the rest of the car is below par. Check for matching over-rugs as well as carpets, and be wary of any damp smells. 

Check that all the instruments and warning lights work. On 1990 and later cars with Active Ride, the suspension warning light may not go out; you can often clear the ‘fault’ and extinguish the light, but there can be more worrying underlying causes. Does the aircon work properly – without leaks? What about the electric windows, especially on a car that has been standing?

Replacing damaged leather to OE standards will be very expensive indeed. Then, how did it get torn? Was a previous owner unlucky or simply careless? As for damaged wood trim, don’t even go there. Veneers were matched to individual cars.

OUR VERDICT

You’ll buy one of these old-style luxury saloons because there is no experience like driving an elderly Rolls-Royce. You’ll appreciate the utter serenity that comes with it, although it isn’t entirely without stress, unfortunately, as your wallet will notice. Fuel bills are high, and repairs cost what these cars’ original owners could comfortably afford. Roadholding and handling are adequate, but spirited driving will make you understand why the much quicker Bentley Turbo R needed a major suspension and brake revamp.

BMW M5 E34 REVIEW

If you’re a fan of discreet performance, few cars are up to the job as well as this beautifully built muscle car – a true gamechanger...

 

Today, the BMW M5 is an all-time great and still very much on the up – but in 2004, it was still possible to pick up a usable example for £2000. How far it had come from when it was new, when CAR magazine pitched a BMW E34 M5 against a Ferarri Testarossa in 1990. Then, it was moved to write: ‘The BMW is more practical, more comfortable, handles better, and is faster on the majority of public roads.’ When Georg Kacher drove a BMW E34 M5 3.8 for the same publication in 1992, he wrote: ‘The M5 is as much fun to drive as a proper sports car, and makes distances shrink like a time-lapse machine.’

The E34 M5 was the last of the six-cylinder M5s, and to connoisseurs, it’s arguably the best of these amazing super-saloons. It was the E34’s predecessor, the E28, which had created the template for the modern-day performance carry-all. Both cars were powered by engines based on the same straight-six seen in the M1; in the E34 it displaced 3535cc and there was 315bhp and 266lb ft of torque on tap, enabling the M5 to get to 0-60mph in 6.3 seconds.

The car seemed pretty much perfect, but BMW made things even better with the 3.8-litre M5 in 1992. This featured a 3795cc engine with an upgraded engine management system, plus revised Boge suspension (dubbed Adaptive M Technic) From September 1992 there was improved safety and security, then the final flourish came in May 1994 with a six-speed gearbox. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine   3795cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power    340bhp@6900rpm

Torque   295lb ft@4750rpm

Maximum speed    155mph (limited)

0-60mph  5.4sec

Fuel Consumption   22-30mpg

Transmission  Five/six-speed manual

Height   4ft 7in (1.39m)

Width     5ft 9in (1.75m)

Length   15ft 6in (4.72m)

Wheelbase   9ft 1in (2.76m)

Weight3682lb (1679kg)

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Look for rust at the base of the windscreen, in the rear wheelarches and along the edges of the bootlid. The plastic sill skirt covers can hide rusty inner and outer sill panels, jacking points plus the bottom of the front wings and A-posts. Also check the petrol flap aperture. Poorly repaired crash damage is common too; it’s easy to get an M5 out of shape on slippery roads.

Engine

 

That straight-six will clock up 200,000 miles if looked after. If the original coolant hoses are still fitted, it’s worth renewing them as a matter of course. Other cooling issues that can arise include leaky water pumps plus failed thermostats and viscous couplings. The 3.8-litre engine can suffer pistonor conrod failure on a poorly maintained car. 

Transmission

It’s pretty much unknown for a rear axle to fail, but check for leaks, with all cars getting a limited-slip diff as standard. The clutch should feel really light. If it doesn’t, get it changed. Both five- and six-speed gearboxes are strong, but listen for clattery bearings when the car is idling, with your foot off the clutch pedal. If a rebuild is needed it’ll set you back around £1200.Replacing oils seals costs around £200.

Exhaust

This isn’t made of stainless steel but it is reasonably long-lived. Because it’s double-skinned it can look tired on the outside but still be in good condition; the key is to listen for noisy baffles, which indicate a new set of pipes will be needed soon. Replacements are costly at £1200 – also make sure that the catalytic converter isn’t damaged by putting the car through an MoT.

Dampers

Listen for pattering over bumps, which indicates worn dampers; front replacements cost around £180 per corner for 3.6-litre cars, with the self-levelling rears pitched at about £600 per side. The 3.8 has Electronic Damping Control (EDC) for which some parts are now unavailable; they were last listed at £1000 per corner, so check for leaks and corroded pipes. Swapping the SLS or EDC suspension for conventional Bilstein dampers is common, which in improves the handling, especially on 3.6-litre cars.

Bushes and joints

Wear on the inner edges of the front tyres indicates worn ball joints. If the centre section of the rear tyres has worn, the rear subframe bushes probably need to be replaced; they typically last around 100,000 miles. Replacement wishbones cost £250 per side while rear suspension bushes are £78 per side (both are plus fitting). Vague steering might be worn track rod ends wear too (a pair of new ones costs around £250) or a tired steering box. The latter can be adjusted but the box is unique to the M5 so one from a lesser 5-series will have a different ratio.

Interior

Some M5s came with cloth interior trim while others got leather. Extended leather was a less common but much more expensive option which meant pretty much everything was covered with nappa hide except for the headlining. Whatever is fitted it should last well; there was a choice of light or dark grey, with the former getting grubby rather easily. 

Electrics

All M5s got air-con so check it works as it should because compressors and condensers fail and if everything needs doing the bill can easily add up to £1000. Most front seats have electric adjustment; check everything works properly. If there are electrical faults, first check the wiring loom where it passes through the boot hinge. Chafing here can lead to exposed wires then an array of weird electrical issues.

OUR VERDICT

The M5 is still a performance car bargain. No other car offers this level of grunt, usability, build quality and dynamic prowess for the money. Shame they don’t cost the same now as they did back in 2004!

BMW M3 (E30) REVIEW

Highly sought after, the M3 is a motorsport legend but you need to buy the best.

 

With modern hot hatchbacks producing in excess of 300bhp, two thirds of that isn’t really enough is it? 

Well, that’s where you’d be wrong as the original M3 was one of the finest sports saloons of its day, and feels just as wonderful now.  While BMW have become synonymous with silky straight-six engines, the 2.3-litre, 4-cylinder unit beneath the M3’s bonnet was a cracker producing 200bhp in original, non-catalysed form.  That power arrived at a fizzing 6750rpm, and getting there was to experience a mechanical symphony that sets the hairs on the back of your neck standing.  And thanks to a light weight by today’s standards it still feels quick with the 0-60mph benchmark dispatched in less than seven seconds. 

Driving through a motorsport-inspired dog-leg gearbox, it was also very easy to live with and a well-sorted example feels as happy pottering to the supermarket as it does lapping Silverstone.  But despite the every-day docility, using it that way would be to miss out on one of this car’s finest attributes.  Unencumbered by electronic safety nets, the purity of the driving experience is nothing short of breathtaking.  It steers with amazing precision, the nose tucking into the apex of a corner with just a flick of the meatily-weighted steering and ensconced in the supportive Recaro seat there’s a feeling of superb balance and adjustability.  Powerful E30 variants could be tricky to say the least, especially in poor weather, but the M3 is a world away from the tail-happy six-cylinder cars.  Thank the heavily-revised but still supple suspension for that, but it’s a revelation all the same.  Such delicacy is certainly a far cry from today’s stiffly-suspended performance cars that are tuned for setting records around the Nurburgring. 

The M3 is no less fine inside, where it boasts BMW’s legendary clarity and ergonomics.  There were a few sporting touches, but otherwise it was standard E30 and none the worse for that.  With a spot-on driving position and driver-focused dashboard layout it all feels as special now as it did almost thirty years ago.  As a sports saloon, it’s simply epic.        

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine           2302cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            195bhp@6750rpm

Torque          169lb ft@4750rpm

Top speed     143mph

0-60mph       6.7secs

Economy       28mpg

Gearbox         5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Put it to the panel

Only the bonnet, roof, and doors were shared with the regular E30 so it’s important to ensure that M3-specific panels are undamaged.  The lighter, stiffer shell can be prone to stress cracks if it’s been pounded over circuit kerbs or been upgraded with stiffer suspension so get it on a ramp to check.  And make sure you examine the suspension turrets, front chassis legs, and boot floor for evidence of cracks or accident damage.

 

Spot that rot

Rust resistance isn’t an E30 strong point and hidden corrosion is becoming an issue on the M3.  It can affect the jacking points and inner wings, and you must get a good look behind the sill covers as they can hide serious rot.  Rust can also attack the wings and rear wheel arches, the battery box, the areas surrounding the bonded screens, and in the boot around the lights.  And pay special attention to the scuttle; repairing it isn’t especially difficult or costly, but while the panel itself is cheap it contains the chassis number so has to be specially ordered from BMW and it can take time.  Many examples had a sunroof fitted and serious corrosion here will be expensive to remedy if the sunroof cassette needs to be removed: examine the metalwork and runners thoroughly.

 

Watch for leaks

The cooling system is an Achilles’ Heel, so check the radiator condition and operation of the fan thermostat.  Evidence of previous overheating should be treated with caution as it could have harmed the head gasket.  Oil leaks from around the sump aren’t uncommon, while a loud rattle on start-up indicates a worn timing chain or tensioner.  Opinions differ here, with some specialists recommending the renewal of all parts at around 100,000 miles as a precaution, but it shouldn’t be necessary on a well-maintained example.  A complete engine re-build costs five figures so excessive exhaust smoke and low oil pressure is bad news, and watch for rough running caused by induction air leaks, or faulty Bosch Motronic engine management. 

 

Show me the light

Skipped servicing and clocking are further concerns, so check the service lights on the dashboard are working and pay very close attention to the history.  Transmission-wise, the dog-leg Getrag gearbox is a weak point, so check for whining bearings or noisy synchromesh.  You’ll need to allow around £2000 for a specialist re-build.  Hard use can lead to a noisy limited-slip differential, and while failure is rare, a replacement is expensive.  Oil leaks from the ‘box and diff aren’t uncommon either.

 

Suspension surveillance

The standard suspension rarely gives major problems, so just watch for broken springs, tired dampers, and rattling anti-roll bar links.  As upgraded cars are returned to original specification, sourcing some parts such as springs can be tricky so check availability before undertaking work.  It’s also worth checking the condition of the rear subframe bushes, and the subframes themselves as cracks can appear in hard-used examples.  The brakes are more than up to the task, though, so just ensure that the ABS is operating correctly as it’s a pricey fix.  And check the condition of the BBS wheels as finding new ones isn’t easy.

 

The inside story

The interior is effectively standard E30, so watch for shabbiness and signs of water ingress via the bulkhead grommets and sunroof drains.  Seat frames can crack, while threadbare seat bolsters will need the services of a professional trimmer.  Some trim parts are getting hard to source, too, so ensure the dashboard, door cards, and switchgear are undamaged.  Failure of the instrument’s printed circuit board (PCB) is a common E30 issue, and costs around £700 to put right; ensure that dials and warning lights are all working.  Indeed, check all electrical items as remedying problems can be frustrating and costly.

 

Drop top checks

If you’re considering one of the rare convertibles check the operation of the electric hood and ensure that damp hasn’t been getting in.  And all M3s were left-hand drive, and while conversions were carried out a specialist check is highly recommended.

 

OUR VERDICT

Owning and driving an M3 is a wonderful experience, but buying one is not without pitfalls.  Prices weren’t always so strong, so abused and badly modified examples are out there and need avoiding like the proverbial plague.  Get it right, though, and the peerless handling of this exquisite sports saloon will entertain like nothing else.  It’s special indeed.

ROLLS-ROYCE SILVER SPIRIT

Becoming a Rolls-Royce Silver Spirit owner has never been so affordable.

WHY YOU WANT ONE

If the cachet of Rolls-Royce ownership and all the style and elegance it represents has always appealed, but you’ve never quite been able to justify the bank loan to afford one, then the Silver Spirit is the answer. Older Silver Shadow prices are now beginning to firm up, which means that the less desirable 1980s and 1990s Silver Spirits are currently more affordable than ever.
The boxy bodywork is pure 1980s and the styling is much more contemporary than any Roller that came before it. That will no doubt be a turnoff for some, but while the blunt looks and vast proportions now show their age, there’s no denying that the Silver Spirit has a certain period charm. Factor in the powerful V8 engine and the sublime ride quality, courtesy of self-levelling suspension, and the appeal starts to broaden. Being a Roller, it’s also decked out with more high quality leather and wood than you can possibly imagine.
So if you’re after all-out luxury or are planning on setting up a wedding car business on a budget then few cars can top it at this price.

AT THE WHEEL

The appeal of a dirty great 6.75-litre V8 is hard to ignore. Granted, a Rolls-Royce isn’t a car which one should drive furiously, but the acceleration is delivered in a conservative and smooth manner. It’s a behemoth of a lump and drinks like a fish, but all the time emits a soft, easy-on-the-ear V8 burble.
The ride, on sorted cars with the Auto Ride electronic suspension systems, is one of the best around. It’s relaxed and wallowy, but both front and rear passengers could never complain about being uncomfortable. Press on and later cars fitted with the aforementioned suspension set-up will hunker down a little and adopt a slightly sportier stance. The light action of the skinny steering wheel complements the car’s ambience well.
Exact characteristics of the Silver Spirit will y depending on the age and exact model you drive. Later models gained more power courtesy of tweaked cylinderheads and a new intake manifold, among other changes. Then there’s the rare and extremely fast Flying Spur with its brutally powerful turbocharged engine.

VITAL STATISTICS

1992 Rolls-Royce Silver Spirit II 
Engine 6750cc/V8/OHV
Power 215bhp@4,200rpm
Torque 325lb ft@1450rpm
Top Speed 127mph
0-60mph 10.0sec
Economy 12-15mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1. Steer clear of pre-1984 cars as they can be a lot of trouble. Much of the bodywork was poorly designed and didn’t fit properly. The door and window frames of the first cars to leave the factory had a terrible fit and finish, which let a lot of wind into the cabin. These early cars were recalled for modifications and the door seals were redesigned.

2. Fuel injection was made standard in 1987, so it’s worth buying a car that has it fitted. The carburettor engines are simpler, but the fuel economy benefits that come with fuel-injected engines are worth it.

3. Corrosion can be a serious problem on cars built before 1992. It occurs in obvious places such as the wheelarches and the sills. The bottom four to six inches of the body are the worst areas for rot, as are the rear arches and the panel behind them.

4. Interiors are well-built and generally hard-wearing, but pay particular attention to lighter shades of leather. Magnolia and other pale hides will show wear more than darker equivalents, particularly on the driver’s seat. Cars that have been used for wedding transport may be more worn than usual on the back seats.

5. Carefully inspect the front and rear screen before you open the doors, then have a look at them from inside the car. If you can see any mist then there’s probably damp beneath the carpets that’s been caused by water ingress. It’s also worth getting down on your hands and knees and patting the interior floor for any more signs of damp.

6. V8 engines like the Roller’s can guzzle oil, so check the level, which will also be an indicator of whether the car has been well maintained. For the truest reading, do it after the engine has reached peak operating temperature and then been allowed to cool down. 

7. An advanced Auto Ride electronic suspension system was introduced in 1990. This automatically adjusts the suspension settings to firmer or softer depending on how hard the car is being driven at the time. Be aware that it can go wrong and lead to an irregular, lumpy ride, which should become obvious on a test drive. Repairs are eye-wateringly expensive – dampers alone cost around £800 each. 

8. A recall was issued in December 1995 for ious Rolls-Royce models that were manufactured with incorrect oil in their braking systems. The cars in question were built between June and October 1995, and while the majority will have been corrected, it’s worth thumbing through the service history to find out whether they were. 

9. Later cars are generally much more reliable than early examples, but cars built between 1995 and 1998 are prone to head gasket problems. This is easily spotted by removing the engine oil filler cap and inspecting the bottom of it. If you see a pale, gloopy residue then the head is on its way out. Oil that smells of rotten eggs is another indicator.

10. When it’s working properly, the ride is one of the highlights of the Silver Spirit. However, the rear suspension gas springs can lose their pressure and become hard, which will be noticeable on a test drive, particularly from the back. If you can, go for a ride in the back of the car as part of your inspection/test drive, as any faults with the suspension system should become obvious. 

VERDICT

With the Silver Spirit, there’s no question that later cars are the better bet, so it’s a case of finding as recent a model as possible that suits your budget. Cheap cars may look attractive from the outset – and you can pick up a useable example for as little as a few thousand pounds – but it’s worth remembering that parts and repairs are seriously pricey, so spending more in the first place is advisable.
Apart from the affordability, the beauty of the Silver Spirit is that there’s probably a Rolls-Royce specialist somewhere near you and it’s young enough for parts to be easy to obtain. Big space, big comfort and a very big engine mean you’ll be the most cosseted commuter around if you use yours every day. But be quick prices of good, last-of-the-line cars are now on the increase. Becoming a Rolls-Royce owner has never been so affordable.

BMW 6-SERIES (E24) REVIEW

This big coupé has style, but what’s it like under the skin?

 

 

The shark-nosed 6-Series looks good from the outside, but it’s pretty impressive inside too. The cabin is truly luxurious, the dashboard is well-stocked with instruments, and build quality is superb. There’s a sportingly low-slung driving position and ergonomics are first-rate, all the controls falling perfectly to hand. If you’re in the mood to relax, the ‘6’ can play the comfortable and refined grand tourer and it’ll cover miles with ease. But a prod of the organ-type throttle pedal will unleash impressive performance. The M635 is a bona fide supercar, too, though care is needed in the wet as tail-slides are never far away.

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 6-Series (E24)

Engine                                    3453cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  286bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 251lb ft @4500

Top speed                                156mph

0-60mph                                  6.1sec

Consumption                           18mpg

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is a big enemy of the 6-Series, and signs of corrosion in the usual spots – rear arches, sills, and door bottoms – are likely to be the tip of the iceberg. The same applies to the front wings, which need particular scrutiny around the indicators and the lower rear section ahead of the sill, while inner wing seams can rot around the battery tray. With the wings alone costing £600 each, replacing both is a costly exercise and removal may be the only way of gauging the full extent of any problem.

Leaky rear light seals allow rust to develop in the boot, while water collecting around the rear spoiler and then dripping inside isn’t uncommon. Blocked drain holes can lead to corrosion around the sunroof opening and it pays to check for rot around the fuel tank and filler neck too. Get a good look underneath as corroded jacking points are a known issue – if these and the sills are bad, they can take the floor with them.

 

ENGINE

All models (bar the M635CSi) got a single cam ‘M30’ engine in various capacities. They’ll cover big miles before major attention is required but need looking after. Camshaft and rocker wear is caused by a clogged oil spray bar in the head, starving the cams of oil; ticking from cold is the giveaway. A perfect cooling system is vital, as overheating will quickly warp the alloy head, so check for a blocked radiator and ragged hoses and ensure the viscous-coupled fan kicks-in promptly.  

The M635 engine (dubbed ‘M88’) was was a wet-sump derivative of the straight-six used in the M1 supercar and was a DOHC unit with 24 valves. A rebuild isn’t cheap, so fastidious maintenance is the key, with a history that includes cam chain replacement. BMW fitted a single row chain rather than the duplex arrangement on other models and it’s prone to breakage. It must be changed at 100,000 miles without fail.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were fouror five-speed manual or three- or four-speed auto, depending on age and model. All are generally tough, but make sure you try the later four-speed auto in all of its selectable drive modes. The manual-only M635 got a dog-leg Getrag unit which is hugely expensive to replace, so be wary of obstructive or crunchy gearshifts. 

 

BRAKES

It’s a heavy car, so check the brakes and suspension for wear and tear. Early high-pressure braking system cars used ATF rather than brake fluid, shared with the power steering. Annual fluid changes are recommended while a hard pedal or lack of response points to the accumulator (or ‘brake bomb’ as it was known) failing. Later cars reverted to normal brake fluid. The steering box mount can crack where it attaches to the chassis crossmember, so ask the vendor about any remedial work, and watch for corrosion at the rear subframe mounts. The Michelin ‘TRX’ tyres fitted to most models are an unusual metric size and therefore tricky to find and costly to buy. Aftermarket Alpina replacements are popular. The correct type point to a careful owner. Cracked exhaust manifolds, leaks from fuel injector pipes and rough running caused by engine management issues need watching for.


INTERIOR

Plenty of equipment and high-quality materials featured in the 6-Series, so check condition carefully. The genuine leather trim is expensive and you’ll need to ensure all the electrical toys are functioning properly. Electric seat motors can give up the ghost, while slow electric windows are often caused by hard grease from lack of use. 

 

OUR VERDICT

The 6-Series is a car that delivers looks and quality in spades, and that makes it seriously appealing in our eyes.Rot is a real concern though and it won’t necessarily be cheap to run, so you’ll want to find one that’s been pampered. But with this much style and performance on offer, it’ll be worth the effort.

ROSENGART TWO-SEATER SPORTS TOURER REVIEW

Lucien Rosengart was a top engineer and good publicist, making automotive nuts and screws initially and very successfully manufacturing a patent shell fuse during WWI. Subsequently assisting Citroen through a financial crisis, he was rewarded with a seat on their Board. By 1928 Rosengart decided to make his own car, ex-Citroen engineer, Jules Salomon, advising him to make an Austin 7 sized car. Rosengart chose a manufacturing licence from Austin, this model having its own chassis, providing a 7' 3'' wheelbase, their own half-elliptic six-stud rear axle and body - the engine, gearbox and front axle being of Austin design. Herbert Austin had an eye for business worldwide, and took a seat on the Rosengart Board, manufacture taking place in Neuilly-sur-Seine, Paris.

ROVER 10HP REVIEW

Satisfying a demand for luxurious and well-made cars that were a cut above the rest just pre-war, the new Rover 10HP was brought into line stylewise with the rest of the Rover range, the bodies being produced for Rover by Pressed Steel. Synchromesh was introduced on third and fourth gears on this 1389cc 4-cylinder overhead valve car, with built-in jacks, automatic chassis lubrication and switchable free-wheel hubs.