ROVER 200 COUPE/CABRIOLET REVIEW

Rover introduced the ‘Tomcat’ in October 1992 in 109bhp 1.6, 136bhp 2.0 or 198bhp 2.0 turbo forms. Unsurprisingly, the latter is the most collectible – in reality, the normally aspirated cars aren’t that sought after, as they’re a bit weedy, although they’re cheaper to run. However, the Rover Coupé’s chassis struggles to rein in the power of the turbocharged 2.0-litre, which is why a decent compromise is the 1.8 VVC-engined car that arrived in March 1996. With 143bhp it’s decently quick but it doesn’t shred its tyres every time you try to overtake someone.
All cars were facelifted in November 1993, with the addition of a grille and side impact bars – at the same time all cars gained airbags and seat belt pre-tensioners. These facelifted cars are by far the most common, simply because they represent the biggest part of Coupé production.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1994cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 197bhp@6100rpm
Torque 171lb ft@2100rpm
Top Speed 146mph
0-60mph 7.1sec
Gearbox 5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Corrosion and crash damage can be a problem – even cherished cars can have rust in the sills, door bottoms, wheelarches and the leading edge of the windscreen, plus the rear wings.
If the bumpers are misaligned, the car has probably been pranged. To check the bodyshell’s integrity, look at the boot floor from underneath, the rear light surrounds from inside the boot and the rearmost pillars. If any of these are out of shape, walk away.
Watch for leaks into the cabin, as all Coupés came with removable roof panels as standard. The seals around their handles aren’t always that effective, but some silicone sealant normally does the trick.
Finally, check the boot isn’t full of water. Spare wheel wells get waterlogged through rear light seals failing, boot vents leaking or water getting past the fixing holes for the rear window trim.

ENGINES

The Coupé featured three different four-cylinder engines; the Honda D-Series in 1.6-litre SOHC form (a DOHC version of this was offered in other European markets), the Rover K-Series in 1.6 or 1.8 VVC guises, or the Rover T-Series in 2.0-litre form, either naturally aspirated or turbocharged.
The D-Series powerplant is tough, but the head gasket can blow, so check for mayonnaise on the underside of the oil filler cap. As long as the oil is changed every 4000 miles, these engines last 150,000 miles or more, although distributor caps can crack, so listen for misfiring.
Offered in 1.6 or 1.8 VVC forms, the K-Series engine’s faults are well known, the key one being a tendency to blow head gaskets. Look for evidence of problems as a wrecked engine can render a Coupé worthless.
The K-Series engine also needs a replacement cambelt every 60,000 miles or five years. This engine’s tappets are hydraulic, so if they’re rattly after the initial start up, it may be the head needs a rebuild at £500+.
The fruitiest engine is the T-Series, in normally aspirated or turbocharged guises. Often thrashed, these engines are tough enough if the oil and filter have been changed every 6000 miles. Listen for top-end rattling, suggesting a head rebuild is due – although it could just be that the exhaust manifold gasket needs replacing. When this is done, you must use a genuine fire ring gasket (ie a metal one, not just a foil-wrapped card item), or it won’t last long.

TRANSMISSION

Start the engine and let it tick over in neutral. Press the clutch; if things get noisy, the clutch release bearing needs replacing. A new one is £30. If things get noisier as you release the clutch pedal, the gearbox bearings are badly worn – a decent used unit costs £50-300. 
On the move, the gear change should be light and precise, although the clutch can be heavy. Any rumbling or whining means a gearbox rebuild is on the cards. If the gears are hard to find, the linkage needs adjusting, but new replacements aren’t available.
Turbo Coupés had a limited-slip diff as standard, but these could be damaged by worn bearings. These have a rather feeble plastic cage, but stronger metal-caged bearings are available. The gearbox identification sticker should start K7BX, K7BSUT or K4BX, but it’s possible to rebuild an LSD with non-LSD parts; don’t assume the car is as it was built.

STEERING, SUSPENSION & BRAKES

All Coupés have power-assisted steering, so check the fluid is up to the mark, as leaks are common. Pumps can also prove short-lived, so listen for whining as you turn between locks; replacements are £250-500.
The main issue with the Coupé’s suspension and braking system is that of wear. Sagging springs, worn trailing arm bushes and tired dampers are common. Brakes are especially prone to wear, so feel for juddering through the brake pedal as you slow down, signifying warped discs.
You should also feel for vibration under acceleration, suggesting that the lower ball joints, wheel bearings or track rod ends are past their best. It might also mean that the wheels need balancing; if that’s the case, make sure none of them have been kerbed heavily, throwing the tracking out.
Most enthusiast-owned Coupés have uprated brakes and suspension; the former because the standard anchors are marginal, the latter for less maintenance. The easiest suspension upgrade entails fitting polyurethane bushes, as the rubber items fitted on the production line tend to perish and split, especially the rear lower arm bushes, which generally only last 30,000-40,000 miles.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

Half or full-leather trim is common, but the cloth otherwise fitted is durable, although the driver’s seat bolsters tend to wear. New parts aren’t available, but you might find some decent used trim – don’t count on it though.
Many Coupés have had their interiors butchered to fit aftermarket stereos and security systems. Clearly there are potential issues with the quality of any work undertaken; if the rear trim panels are loose they’ve been removed and their retaining clips haven’t been renewed. Because they’re not reusable, they have to be replaced each time – but they’re available and very cheap, so it isn’t the end of the world.
The electrical system is usually reasonably reliable, but the door-operated light switches fail along with the number plate light – the latter, usually because the wiring stress-cracks where it goes into the boot lid.

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VERDICT

The Coupé makes a great usable classic buy, as long as you can find a good one. These cars are firmly in banger terroritory, which is why many have been snapped up merely as cheap transport. There are plenty of well cared for examples out there too though; buy a low-mileage high-spec Turbo while you can, and you’re guaranteed a sure-fire investment that’s also going to provide plenty of fun every time you take it out of the garage. There’s already a huge club scene too.

BMW 5-SERIES E28 REVIEW

A stylish, practical cruiser that's getting increasingly rare...

The BMW E28 5 Series entered production in 1981 and continued for a further six years until December 1987, during which time over 720,000 cars were built. The entry level 518 was the only car in the range to feature a carburettored engine, and only then until 1984, whereas the rest sported both Motronic and Jetronic fuel injected units. The E28 replaced the aging E12, which had been in service since 1972 and had begun to look dated. Unlike its more basic predecessor, the E28 featured all mod cons including power windows, power seats and even a trip computer. As well as the range of standard cars, hot versions were added in the form of M5 and M535i.  

VITAL STATISTICS

E28 520i 1981

Engine                                    1991cc/DOHC/Inline 6

Power (bhp@rpm)                  123bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 125ft lb@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  9.7sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The most important issue affecting the E28 is rust. After spending more than 20 years exposed to the British weather, many cars will now be suffering the effect of tinworm. The low value of many cars means it isn’t cost effective to continue to repair bodywork, so owners tend to adopt a ‘run it til it pops’ mentality. With this in mind, get the cleanest car you find. 

Use a magnet to check for filler behind the front and rear arches and sills. If you don’t have a magnet, use your eye – unless professionally done you should be able to spot bodged touch-ups. Sunroofs are prone to rust as water collects in the recesses, so give this area close scrutiny. Doors will also rust given time, so open them and closely inspect the bottom edge. 

Anywhere there are drainage holes there may be rust, and there’s no substitute for getting close and taking your time – you don’t want to be surprised when you get home. Open the boot and lift the rear carpet; pay particular attention to the rear shock mounts as these have a tendency to fail. Also, remove the spare tyre and check the floor beneath. Check the windscreen window seals for signs of cracking or shrinking, as well as rear light seals; if these leak, water will pour directly into the boot.  

ENGINE

Engines fitted to the E28 were mostly carried over from the E12, so it should be seen as more of a facelift than complete redesign. The M20 engine was fitted to the 520i and 525i, with the M30 being used for the 528i, 535i and M535i. Both variants are legendary in the motoring world as being almost indestructible, providing they are well cared for. All engines will require valve adjustments every 15,000 miles, but this can be done with little trouble by the home mechanic. Check the engine oil level to make sure it’s not too low. Be wary if the oil is either too dirty or too clean, both are signs that poor maintenance is being disguised. 

Start the engine from cold and allow it to warm up, check that the temperature levels-off nicely and that no blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe. Injectors can be noisy on startup; this is normal. 20w/50 oil should be used, nothing thinner. Timing belts should be replaced every five years or 60,000 miles, so make sure this is done. If the water pump has never been replaced, budget for the work and get it done immediately. 

If you’re looking at an M5 then a different set of rules apply. The M5 uses the M88/3 engine, which is an altogether more complex beast than the M30 with much lower tolerances than the smaller engines. Pay to get the car properly inspected by a BMW independent specialist. Any problems with the M88/3 engine will be astronomical to repair, and most problems will be immediately apparent to a specialist.

RUNNING GEAR

As with the rest of the car the running gear is fairly solid, but it will be wearing out by now. It’s important that you take the car for a test drive through a variety of driving conditions so any problems become apparent. CV joints are a weak point but are cheap enough to replace, a good DIY job if you have the know-how. Rear subframe mounts will probably need replacing as well, but this is a garage job. Gearboxes have a reputation for durability, but parts to repair them are getting increasingly scarce.

Early cars use the ZF 3HP22 automatic gearbox, which is bombproof. Manual transmissions are as hard wearing as engines, so should be able to achieve the same astronomical mileages.  

INTERIOR

E28 electrics are more reliable than their contemporaries, but by now will be starting to suffer. If the power windows don’t work the first place to look is the switches. Muck and grime build up and interfere with the contacts, so this can often be sorted with 20 minutes. ECUs can fail if soldering breaks down, which is a garage job. On the other hand, power seats are known to fail and are a DIY job.

 Interiors are of high quality and are hard wearing, but in high mileage cars will be on the way out. Don’t be put off by grubby seats; it’s amazing what a bit of leather cleaner can do. As always, the M5 is a different story. M5 leather interiors are rare and pricey. The seat frames also have a tendency to crack, while with textile seats make sure there is no significant wear to the bolsters. Check that the dashboard isn’t cracked, as a replacement will be hard to find and costly to fit.

OUR VERDICT

They’re cheap to buy and almost as cheap to maintain if you’re on a budget. Clean low spec examples are still easy to find, and most have been cosseted by elderly owners. Low mileage mint cars come up with surprising regularity, but most are snapped-up quickly by dealers looking to charge silly sums. It pays to buy the best example you can afford, as it’s easy to sink a small fortune into correcting bodywork. They’re becoming increasingly rare in scrap yards. You can’t go far wrong with any but make sure you pay for a proper inspection if you’re looking at an M5.

And don’t forget that all parts are available through BMW Park Lane Classic as well as through specialists. 

bmw

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - ROVER MINI COOPER

There are lots of Mini Coopers out there and a mind boggling selection of late Rover Mini models bearing the Cooper name. 

The final 10 years of Mini production had more development cash spent than the previous two decades. Changes in bodyshell allowed Rover and then BMW to keep the car compliant with the latest legislation changes, and offer a little bit more in the way of luxury appointments. Here is a selection of some of the later Rover Mini-Coopers.

RSP Rover Mini Cooper
June-October 1990
UK market ‘RSP’ Coopers were only built between June-October 1990 and used the MkVI bodyshell with revised engine mounting. You can spot them apart from mainstream Coopers because they have no ‘Mini Cooper’ badge on the boot, but a circular ‘Cooper’ decal. The ‘John Cooper’ signature was featured on the bonnet, reversed out of the white stripes. Two-tone paint was standard, but the door mirrors and wheel arches are colour coded to the body. A glass sunroof was a standard fitment and tinted glass was always fitted. Inside the seats have black leather facings with
black ‘lightning’ fabric inserts, and a Cooper logo sewn into the seat uprights. Burgundy red carpets are fitted, along with the triple instrument pack in front of the driver with a 110mph speedo.

Mainstream Rover Mini Cooper
June 1990- September 1991
These more mainstream models ran longer than the RSP Cooper special edition, starting at the same June 1990 date but on the Longbridge lines until September 1991. You can spot a mainstream Cooper by it having no bonnet decals (as standard, remember, many were fitted aftermarket). The door mirrors are colour coded to the roof rather than the body, and the wheel arch extensions are black self-coloured plastic. No driving lights were fitted as standard, whereas RSP Coopers had a pair, and the eagleeyed will observe that mainstream Coopers were only ever fitted with sealed-beam headlamps. Glass is non-tinted and no sunroof was fitted.
Inside, the seats have black vinyl facings with ‘Crayons’ cloth, and the carpets are black. The steering wheel is bound in black leather. 
The engine is the same as the RSP, but has no oil cooler and the electric fan is bolted onto the inner wing, with its wiring harness incorporated into the rest of the loom, unlike the RSP which features a separate harness for the fan. The air intake motif featured the Mini Cooper bonnet badge logo embossed on it, which the RSP does not.

Rover Mini Cooper 1.3i 
from September 1991
The big news for 1991 was the introduction of fuel injection. The 1275 A+ motor was a derivative of the MG Metro unit with ‘SPI’ in Rover parlance, or single point injection with a closedloop 3-way cat. Ignition was electronic, and the car had an oil cooler and twin electric cooling fans. Basically it looked the same as the mainstream Cooper, except it placed the winged chromed Mini Cooper badge on the bootlid and had a chrome 1.3i badge also on the boot. Inside was the same as the RSP Cooper, except the Lightning seat fabric extended to the edge of the chairs, and an R652 stereo radio/cassette player was fitted.

Rover Mini Cooper Si 
from 1995
With the resurgence of the Mini name, and an increased interest on the part of new owner of the brand, BMW in ensuring a healthy future for its still-secret MINI, the new-for-96 Si featured the first sight of the latest bodyshell for the original Mini, the Mk VII. The options list expanded, and the full-width dashboard gained potentially a walnut-style dashboard and cream faced instruments.

ROVER P4 REVIEW

There’s something wonderfully ‘right’ about a good P4. There’s a crisp, ‘engineered’ feel that works well with all the wood and leather, while clambering aboard is an experience, with those suicide rear doors adding excitement for passengers.

The six-cylinder models get all of the glory, but there’s not a lot wrong with the four-cylinder engines – both of which saw use in Land Rovers. While no racing machine, a P4 is easily capable of holding its own on a motorway. The high seating position and enormous steering wheel combine to make you feel king of the road, while the delicious, exposed gear linkage is sheer delight to use. The later servo-assisted brakes give a lot more stopping power, though they still need a fairly good shove.

The handling was never anything to get too excited about, but then this isn’t a car to push hard. If you insist, the nose will soon push wide and unsettling bodyroll sets ins. That said, avoid over-harsh cornering efforts and the P4 can barrel along a twisty B-road at a fair speed. The steering is direct and should feel very accurate, just don’t expect to hurtle around roundabouts like a Mini.

Better to think back to times gone by, when rushing around simply wasn’t the done thing. Settle back for the cruise and the comfort and refinement will take your mind away from such worries as time. Noise levels are surprisingly low, with a delicious first-gear whine from the transmission just adding to the joy of it all.

The 75, 90, 95, 100 and 110 are all six-cylinder powered, with power ranging from 72 to 123bhp. The 60 and 80 are the four-cylinder options, and while they’re down on power, they feel a touch lighter in the steering to compensate.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Rover 100

Engine                                    2625cc/6-cyl/OHV/Bosch injection

Power (bhp@rpm)                  104bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 138lb ft@1500rpm

Top speed                                95mph

0-60mph                                  18sec

Consumption                            20mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual overdrive 

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Bodywork checks are absolutely key, as restoration can quickly get prohibitively expensive. Repair sections are available for the indicator area, and around the headlamps. Glassfibre wings are available, but purists aren’t keen. Check all the brightwork carefully as some of it is Mazak, which pits badly with age.

Sills are a common rot spot and it can spread into the floors. Doors are usually aluminium, though they were steel on later cars. Both can oxidise. A-posts can corrode, and the door will then drop as it is opened. Rot is also possible at the base of the front wing. Interiors are plush and very expensive to overhaul. Water ingress is an issue, thanks to tired window seals. If it has leaked in, it often pools in the passenger footwell. Well-cared for leather should be soft and pliable to the touch. 

Corrosion can strike the chassis, especially where it rises up above the rear axle. It’s very difficult to check with the car at ground level, so you either need to remove the rear wheels, or talk a garage into letting you borrow their hoist. Repairs are possible, but need to be done well to prevent further trouble. Rot affects the rear wings, especially the lower edges and across the rear valance. Open the boot and check again for water ingress and crunchiness. Be very wary if the boot will not stay open. It is cantilevered, but the mounts can suffer from rot. 

ENGINE

Various engines were fitted, with six-cylinders most popular. Rebuild parts can be very expensive, even for the four-cylinder engine. If regular oil changes are not adhered to, camshaft wear can occur and replacement is the only cure. If clouds of blue smoke appear after a long period idling, head work will be needed. Low oil pressure suggests a general overhaul is needed and may cause blue smoke to appear continuously. Exhaust manifolds can crack, so listen out for a chuffing noise. Overheating can be an issue with a neglected engine too, as ancient coolant can silt up the radiator and/or block.

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox is generally robust, but removing it is a pain as the interior needs to be stripped to allow access. Watch for failing synchromesh, especially on second – thought this gear was only so equipped from 1952. First gear has no synchromesh and will always whine. If overdrive was fitted, the quirky freewheel was not. The overdrive won’t engage below 50mph and should, in theory, kick-down from overdrive if the throttle is floored. The two-pedal Roverdrive can be troublesome if parts are needed, though it’s quite reliable. Only 3540 were made with this ’box.

BRAKES

Many P4s have now escaped the need for an MoT (cars built after 1960 still need one), so be vigilant. Rot can strike around the steering box idler mountings, as well as the front outriggers. Wear in the suspension top bush will cause uneven tyre wear and clonks, while kingpins can naturally wear – these should be lubricated with heavy oil, not grease. The steering should not be vague. Radial tyres can make the steering exceedingly heavy, but offer benefits once under way, though supply is tricky at the moment. 

Rear axles are very hardy and rarely give trouble. Do make sure the handbrake works though. The mechanism often seizes up and people assume they were always rubbish. They weren’t. Incidentally, check the condition of the hubcaps. Replacements are not cheap. The rear leaf springs can sag with age. Retempering or replacement are the only cure. The nose-high stance isn’t helped by front springs actually getting harder with age. Have a quick glance at the brake back plates if you can. If the outer driveshaft seals have worn, the brakes can get contaminated.

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OUR VERDICT

There is a surprisingly wide variety in the P4 range. The six-cylinder 100 is most abundant, and remains a great buy. Don’t rule out an 80 though. Engine spares certainly aren’t an issue, thanks to the use in Land Rovers until the 1980s. Whichever you opt for, the P4 remains a wonderful driver’s classic.

BMW E34 5-SERIES REVIEW

Quick, solid and reliable, BMW’s E34 5 Series was a stunning statement of the German car maker’s abilities. It’s a vehicle that was coveted worldwide during the 1990s...
 

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.

There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some
damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds).

These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved.  

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 535i

Engine                                    3430cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  211bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 220lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                139mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.

Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.

Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.

The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.

In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.

Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 

Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.

INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.

Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?

Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.

One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

OUR VERDICT

The E34 5 series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn't bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won't have any worries - although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.

BMW E34

ROVER P5B REVIEW

A quintessentially British luxury saloon, the Rover P5B is well worth a closer look.

The P5B is all about one thing and that’s comfort. It starts with a luxurious and well-appointed cabin that is a fine place to while away the miles; this is a car that can cover long distances without putting any strain on the driver or passengers. Settled into the comfy leather chairs and with a light grip on the thin-rimmed wheel, you’re all ready to enjoy everything the stylish Rover has to offer. Finger-light steering and a cosseting ride make covering big miles a relaxing affair, and while B-road heroics are strictly off the menu, this is exactly what you’d expect from this fine British car. The P5B is no sluggard, though, despite a hefty kerb weight – the smooth, torquey V8 engine is more than capable of providing a decent turn of pace, although making the most of that performance will come at the expense of eye-watering fuel consumption. Stopping is no problem either, as the brakes respond strongly to the lightest of pedal pressure, and are more inspiring than the slightly lacklustre steering. A wonderful way to travel, though.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Rover P5B

Engine                                    3528cc/V8/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  160bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 226lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                110mph

0-60mph                                  10.7sec

Consumption                            17.2mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Rover V8 is a tough unit and easily capable of 150,000 miles or more. Regular changes of oil and antifreeze are the key, but also check for signs of overheating that could lead to head gasket failure. Radiators will fur-up and leak over time, so a bill for a replacement is a good sign. Oil leaks from the engine block and gearbox can be a niggle but are often caused by blockeded breathers, so check there first. Early cars were fitted with a low-volume oil pump, so fitting one from the Rover SD1 engine is a useful mod. Ticking from the camshafts and hydraulic tappets when the engine is warm mean a top-end re-build is probably overdue. Listen for leaks from the exhaust manifold as securing nuts can work loose. Auto chokes can give trouble so manual conversions are common. Listen for pinking as these engines should run on Five Star petrol.

The complex three-piece sills can rot badly (particularly around the jacking points) so it pays to dig deeper even if things appear fine, and you should also check the front and rear inner wings and the boot floor. Pay close attention to wheelarches, door bottoms and the rear valance, as well as the door pillars. The base of the D-pillar can rot where it meets the rear wheelarch, so check around the end of the sill/kickplate with the door open. Inspect for even panel gaps and ensure the doors don’t sag when open. Bubbling under the front and rear screen rubbers is bad news as rot is costly to repair.

RUNNING GEAR

An automatic gearbox was standard on the P5B – Borg Warner DG on early models, BW 35 later on – and both are reliable as long as they aren’t abused. Blackened or burnt-smelling fluid suggests potential problems. Rear axles are considered bombproof, so any issues will be apparent on a test drive, as will a vibration caused by a worn propshaft centre bearing – the latter is a cheap fix, though.

The rest of the running gear is fairly straightforward and unlikely to cause problems if well maintained. Look out for worn shock absorbers and sagging rear leaf springs, along with any rot around the mountings for the front torsion bar springs. Little-used examples could be in need of a brake overhaul so check for corroded brake pipes or seized handbrake mechanisms. The power steering system is prone to leaks from seals or the steering box; some owners fit an uprated box that is available from specialists. The Rostyle wheels are specific to the P5B so ensure these are still fitted – they can be refurbished at a reasonable cost if need be.

BRAKES

If we haven’t put you off already, there’s one more hidden area to examine for corrosion. This is the ledge on the bulkhead that supports the brake servo. Debris accumulates here and, especially if combined with leaking brake fluid, can cause the metal underneath to rot through. 

INTERIOR

The cabin of a P5B needs to be in good condition if an expensive resto is to be avoided. Rover used high quality leather, carpets and wood veneers so check for wear and tear or any water damage. Also check that the instruments are working correctly – the window winders on coupés are a notorious weak point.

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OUR VERDICT

This is old-school British luxury as its very best, and should feature on the list of any buyer looking for a comfortable and stylish classic. Whether you pick the saloon or the coupé, the lovely interior and woofling V8 engine are the stars here, but as with any car of this age you do need to buy carefully. Condition is everything with the P5B and returning a restoration case to its former glory can easily soak up huge amounts of cash, so enlisting the help of a specialist to help you find the right car is a sensible move.

BMW 320I CONVERTIBLE REVIEW

The ‘full-convertible’ brought the drop-top E30 in-house, and they’re now a stunningly affordable summer choice...

fter slack sales of the coachbuilt Baur ‘TC’ Top Cabriolet conversions, BMW looked at how sales of VW’s Mk1 Golf GTI cabrio had taken off and in 1983 readied a soft-top E30 to be built in-house. As a premium car, the launch of the expensive convertible boosted BMW sales and offered an additional reason for dropping into the local Bimmer showroom – the classy lines of the E30 ‘full-convertible’ with its hood dropped looked sexy in the window. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1983 BMW 32Oi CONVERTIBLE

Engine                                    1991cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  123bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 125lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                124ph

0-60mph                                   9.5sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The E30 is noted for its exceptionally rigid bodywork, and the convertible version has additional bracing in the sills and scuttle to compensate for its lack of a tin roof. Yet there can be some instances of scuttle shake when driving, so it’s important to buy one with little or no rust. Rear aprons, rear wheel arches, sills and the A-post around the base of the windscreen frame are all likely candidates for corrosion. Trim items aren’t immune from deterioration either, so check the underside of the rear bumper for rust. The black coating on mirror housings can delaminate in thick sheets of paint – these can be repainted though it’s often easier to source good secondhand and simply fit another mirror body. 

ENGINE

The 2.0-litre straight-six engine is a peaky performer. When buying an E30 fitted with this engine, you need to pay special attention to the service history. The presence of BMW’s SII (Service Interval Indicator) lamps on the dashboard and the ease with which it can be reset using a £10 tool means that if there’s any lack of supporting paperwork to ratify the car’s mileage, then you’re best off walking away. With the engine ticking over, listen out for noisy tappets. Sometimes you may be hearing loud injectors, but being sure about it might mean knowing the difference between a relatively cheap re-shimming, and an expensive re-injectoring of the LE Jetronic injection. 

RUNNING GEAR

Manual and auto gearboxes are quite tough. Watch for poor synchromesh on the Getrag 240 and 260 transmissions. These aren’t cheap gearboxes to rebuild so any crunching or noise should ring warning bells. The differentials can sometimes be noisy, but can soldier on for a long while as long as you’re prepared to put up with the noise. Sport-suspension equipped models (check your chassis number with a BMW main dealer to find out what equipment your car was made with) also often have a Limited Slip Differential. These can be noisy after a fast or long run, and need LSD compatible oil for changes and topping up. 

Automatic transmissions came in three and four speed versions, made by ZF. Four-speed 4HP22 versions can suffer damage if too high an engine speed is applied for too long when held in park or neutral, a situation that occurs when emissions testing occurs. Watch for flaring on gearchanges and poor drive uptake. 

Suspension bushes need to be in top condition. The design of the strut/trailing arm suspension can give rise to large camber changes in use, which accounts for the car’s tail-happy reputation. 

INTERIOR

Electrics are generally reliable, and only the attentions of previous bodgery should trouble a potential buyer. Are there wires hanging down under the dash? Evidence of additional wires in the engine bay? Any of these should ring alarm bells. Most of the attention on interior condition focuses on the driver’s seat: bolsters wear where the driver gets in and out. Driver’s side carpets can deteriorate, and the trim panel above the pedals can become detached falling onto the driver’s feet. Pedals are a good sign of lower mileage, as the clutch rubber can show wear on leggier cars. 

OUR VERDICT

If you need a family classic with drop-top potential, buying BMW’s 320i convertible is a sensible choice. They’re cheap, relatively plentiful, easy to work on and stylish to use.

Modern fripperies such as power steering make the car usable by anyone in the family, and there are many upgrade and tuning options available should you need a full-house, hot engine and sports suspension in the less-rigid convertible ’shell. 

It’s got character, personality, and as a modern classic has everyone stopping to tell you those tales of ownership. Best of all, if you are looking for one you’ll be spoiled for choice – the wet summer has depressed prices. 

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - ROVER P5

If you're looking for a classic that sums up everything that's great about Britain, nothing can match that mobile drawing room, the Rover P5. Luxurious, solidly built, usable and brilliantly supported by a network of specialists plus a superb club, the P5 is one of those classics that makes sense on pretty much every level. Even the Queen owns one, and apparently she prefers drtiving it to being ferried about in one of her many Rolls-Royces. Of course, the marque from Crewe is another bastion of Britishness, but if it had never existed it's likely that in the Sixties the P5 would have assumed the mantle of 'best car in the world'. Admittedly, Mercedes was creating some impressive machines at that time, but when it came to luxury, power, ambience and presence, nothing could carry it off like the Rover - especially when the price tag was taken into consideration. Four decades on, nothing has changed. The P5 still has all those qualities that make it so achingly desirable, yet the relative costs are even lower. 

Rover ploughed plenty of cash into its upmarket offering to replace the P4. The P5 arrived in 1958 and was available first with a silkysmooth six-cylinder engine, before receiving an injection of V8 power in 1967. The big Rover was always a car beloved of traditionalists and remains so to this day.

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODY & CHASSIS

Poor repairs are common because the P5’s structure is large and complex. But it it’s also strong, so serious structural corrosion is rare. These cars have a basic monocoque onto which the outer panels bolt, making it easy to disguise an unsound car with fresh panels. Check the three-piece sills as they’re crucial to the car’s strength, but are prone to rot. Rotten original sills are less of a concern than badly repaired ones. Uneven panel gaps result from new panels being welded into place when the bodyshell is twisted.

Check the A-posts, outer rear wheelarches and base of each D-post. The outer panels are reasonably durable, but significant corrosion in the latter area requires removal of the rear wing, which is where costs quickly mount.The chassis legs can rot, especially around the leaf-spring mountings, as can the rear inner wings. Poking around behind the boot trim will give you a good idea of the state of the metal below. While you’re at it, examine all the metalwork at the back of the car, paying most attention to the valance.

Corrosion in the nose of the car won’t affect its structural integrity, but not so for rot at the back of the front wheelarches. At this point, the bulkhead, sill and door post meet; there’s also a cavity where mud collects before corroding the metal. Add to this a multitude of drain holes, box sections and cavities, all of which can corrode badly, and there’s the potential for major expenditure. If left unchecked, such corrosion can spread into the bulkhead; at this point the car is fit for parts only, but it may be passed off as one that merely needs minor attention.

The front subframe is unlikely to give problems, but it’s worth checking for corrosion around the torsion bar mounts anyway. Repairs are easy enough, but only once the subframe has been removed.

Door bottoms also warrant close inspection; it’s usually easier and cheaper to fit decent used panels if the originals are shot. The original hinges must be retained though, as they were fettled to attain correct panel gaps.

If you’re looking for a classic from which you can really get some use, a P5 makes a lot of sense. Where most people assume a classic will only be for occasional use, the P5 isn’t like that. Stylish and well-engineered, it’s so capable that it can be considered as an alternative to a modern, thanks to its refinement, pace and build-quality.

ENGINE

The 3-Litre’s powerplant was a bored-out version of the P4’s 2.6-litre unit, and like a well-maintained V8, it should be good for at least 200,000 miles between rebuilds. A neglected six-cylinder engine wears prematurely, with cylinder and valve guide wear in evidence.

A neglected six-cylinder engine wears prematurely, with cylinder and valve guide wear in evidence. That means oil being burned when the engine is started, and under acceleration – so look for blue smoke from the exhaust. Cam followers also get vocal once the mileage is high; the top end noise will be obvious but it’s easy and cheap to put right. It’s the same for the whole engine, which is straightforward and relatively cheap to rebuild; if in doubt, a decent used unit can be sourced for £250 from a specialist such as David Green.

The six-cylinder engine is known for its smoothness and abundance of torque. Don’t be alarmed if the oil pressure warning light flickers at idle – they all do that. It’s also quite common for there to be some blue smoke from the exhaust, while a pint of oil may be needed every 200- 300 miles without cause for concern. Make sure the engine mixture isn’t set too lean, as this can harm fuel consumption and cause a valve to burn out – uneven idling could point to this already having happened.

Like the six-pot motor, the Buick-sourced V8 is a hardy old lump, but runs at a much lower oil pressure than most of us will be used to – once again, an oil light that flickers on and off isn’t necessarily a cause for alarm. Find out whether good quality oil has been used regularly, otherwise the hydraulic tappets won’t operate correctly and the camshaft will also wear down its lobes prematurely.

It’s important the engine breathers on the rocker boxes have been kept clean, otherwise oil leaks will spring forth. Ascertain when the head gasket was changed, as its imperative a high-quality replacement has been used. On each head, some experts only tighten the outer four cylinderhead bolts to half the recommended torque, using thread-locking compound to keep them in place – this prevents the heads from tipping on the block. The tightness of the exhaust manifold nuts need checking, as they can work loose and leak, producing a tell-tale ticking. Don’t be surprised if the automatic choke doesn’t work – manual conversions or electrical over-rides are common. All P5Bs and some P5s were fitted with power steering, so make sure it’s working.

As with any alloy engine, it’s essential that a decent quality anti-freeze is used, and that it’s kept up to strength. Check that the engine doesn’t overheat when left idling – if it does, it may be because the radiator has got partially blocked by debris; a caring owner will have fitted a Kenlowe fan.

TRANSMISSION

The 3-Litre’s manual gearbox was carried over from the P4, and aside from worn synchromesh or bearings, there’s little to worry about. The former is given away by crunchy gear changes while the latter is betrayed by rumbling under load. Apart from a few early cars, all manual P5s have overdrive – make sure it cuts in smoothly as soon as it’s engaged.

All 3.5-litre cars have an automatic gearbox, but many 3-Litres have a stick-shift. Self-shifters featured a Borg Warner Type DG until 1965; later cars had a Type 35 unit. Despite the fact that the Type 35 can only just cope with the V8’s torque, there’s little to worry about. However, you must still ensure it swaps ratios smoothly and cleanly; as long as the transmission fluid has been changed periodically, all will be fine. It’s worth pulling out the dipstick to check the smell and colour of the fluid; it’s located at the rear of the engine, on the offside. Ensure the engine is running and warm; if the fluid smells of rotten eggs and is dark, it’s overheated and a rebuilt gearbox will be needed shortly, at £822 for an exchange unit.

Clutches and driveshafts are strong, but differentials leak and can run low on oil if left unchecked, but it’s unlikely to lead to a rebuild being needed. More likely is wear of the propshaft’s centre bearing (£20) or bushes (£25 per set) which wear, leading to vibration.

STEERING & SUSPENSION

All Coupés have power steering, but until late 1964 it was optional for the saloon. Set off in a P5B and you might think the tiller has been disconnected from the road wheels, the steering is so light – the system was never recalibrated for these later cars,. You get used to the lightness, but it’s initially disconcerting.

The assisted steering system tends to leak; the seals can weep and some castings are porous. The steering shouldn’t be left on full lock for more than 30 seconds at a time, to keep internal pressures down; ignoring this advice can lead to seals letting go. The best solution is a modified steering box, with better seals, available from JR Wadhams for £360.

While the P5’s rear suspension is conventional, the independent front set-up is unusual with its torsion bars. Problems are unlikely, except for sagging through old age. Any P5 with a droopy rear needs fresh leaf springs; if the gaiters have split, there may also be excessive wear of the leaves. Heavy duty replacement springs are £174 apiece.

More important than flat leaf springs are perished bushes for their rear mountings. They’re V-shaped and prone to disintegration; once this has taken place, you’ll see and feel the effects, which is why rapid replacement is essential.

The P5’s weight takes its toll on the shock absorbers, so do a bounce test at each corner to see how quickly the car settles; new dampers cost £60-70 apiece. Whether or not they need renewing, the front suspension bushes may be tired. Look for perishing of the rubber and feel for play in the damper mountings; if new bushes are required, they’re reasonably easy to fit and cost £67 for a full set.

WHEELS & BRAKES

All P5s came with pressed-steel wheels, which in the case of later models were of a Rostyle design. These can corrode all too readily – they’re finished in chrome-plated mild steel. Reviving them is tricky and a really good car can be let down by tatty wheels. Not many surviving wheels are in really good nick; if you can find a mint set you can pay up to £800 for all four.

The P5 is also one of those classics that owners never feel the need to fit alloys to, so there are no worries about clearance issues or having the wrong PCD.

The same goes for the braking system, which is utterly conventional. It’s a disc/drum set-up apart from the first year of production, which featured drums all round.

INTERIOR

That interior is fabulous when pristine, but can prove costly to revive if tatty. All the Wilton, wood and leather could cost up to £5,000 to revive professionally, so check everything closely for damage. Although the wood cappings are solid, the dash is veneered; the main dash is usually resilient, but the corners can delaminate because of water leaks.

If there’s any evidence that either of the windscreen seals need replacing, tread carefully. It’s a pig of a job, even for someone who knows what they’re doing – which is why you must ascertain who did the job if it’s already been done. Cars that haven’t been garaged may be suffering from leaks, so look for evidence of water ingress into the cabin, such as rotten carpeting or discoloured wood trim.

OUR VERDICT

Amazingly comfortable and easily capable of keeping up with modern traffic, the P5 offers ample space for a family and their luggage. Fuel consumption can be an issue, especially on P5Bs, so high-mileage drivers will need to beware. But parts are cheap, maintenance is easy and these cars are inherently tough and reliable.

If it was good enough for cabinet ministers, the P5 should be good enough for you. The age-old problem rears its ugly head once more though; where do you find a good one? If you’re aiming to keep the car for the long term, it’s probably worth paying a little over the odds to secure a minter or getting a car professionally restored; these cars may be undervalued, but you’ll ultimately get your money back unless you pay stupid sums.

You also need to work out which version you want. The obvious answer is a P5B Coupé; that’s what everyone is after. However, while this is the fastest and most stylish of the breed, V8 cars came only with an automatic gearbox, while the Coupé has a roof-line that’s two inches lower than the saloon. As a result, the back seat had to be lowered, so those in the back might feel claustrophobic on a long journey. Whatever you buy it’ll be surprisingly usable; it’s so well engineered, and hence so capable, that it’s a genuine alternative to a modern, thanks to its refinement, pace and build quality.

ROVER P6 REVIEW

Revolutionary when new, and still well respected today,  Rover’s P6makes a practical and enjoyable classic.
Back in 1963, the Rover P6 epitomised quality and sophistication that rivals struggled to match. It was advanced, yet didn't scare buyers - in fact, it became Britain's favourite executive car during the 1960s and '70s. Choose between four-cylinder and V8, manual and auto, saloon and coachbuilt estate.
Rover was known as a maker of refined and staid cars for the professional classes until 1963. That was when its young engineers’ bright ideas were let out on an unsuspecting world in the Rover 2000. Base-unit construction with unstressed panels, all-round disc brakes, racing-type De Dion rear suspension, even a rallying programme… it all lowered the average age of a Rover buyer by 10 years. The four-cylinder 2000 became a 2200 in 1973, after being joined by the pocket-rocket V8-powered 3500 and the motorway police favourite, the manual-box 3500S. The last cars were built in 1977.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1978cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power 89bhp@5000rpm

Torque 108lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed 104mph

0-60mph 14.7sec

Economy 25mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK
 
The P6 is comprised of a skeletal base unit with bolt-on panels. Provided the underpinnings are sound, rust shouldn't be a major concern as repair/replacement is easy. Check the wing tops, door bottoms, and front wings around the sidelights for rust. Front inner wings are a crucial checkpoint too. Both the bonnet and bootlid are aluminium, and as such should be grot-free, but don't be surprised by lifting paint - especially round the steel washer nozzles on the bonnet. Check the rear inner door shuts and under the back seat. Rot in the floor here is bad news.
If the external sill covers are welded on, be ultra-vigilant, as you need to check the sills behind them.

ENGINE AND GEARBOX  
P6 engines are either single/twin-carb 2.0- and 2.2- litre Heron-headed four-cylinder or all-aluminium ex-General Motors 3.5-litre V8. The manual 3500S V8 tends to be hard on gearboxes, prompting many owners to fit the five-speed LT77 gearbox from the Rover SD1. Four-cylinder engines are generally reliable, though rattly bearings are a known issue. Higher mileage manuals suffer gear selection issues regardless of the engine - both Borg Warner auto options are generally durable and a known quantity, V8s are quick but many feel the handling is not as composed as that of the four-cylinder models. Watch for low oil pressure with the V8 - 15psi at idle rising to 25psi under load is what you're looking for.

RUNNING GEAR
The brakes - discs all round - should provide strong stopping power, but owners sometimes neglect the rears as they're inboard. Check the handbrake adjustment - many have a near-vertical handbrake lever - and bear in mind that parts are not interchangeable between the pre-'66 Dunlop braking system and the post-'66 Girling set-up. Check the de Dion elbows at the rear - the back of the car can drop if these fracture. The rear springs sag, but are easily replaced, and check the front joints if the car knocks or bangs. Vague, heavy or 'tight' steering indicates an over-tightened steering box. Power steering is a popular upgrade.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS
Don't be worried about the condition of the 'wood'. Unless you have an early car, it's Formica and easily replaced. The earlier, flatter leather seats wear best 1971- '73 cars are prone to shrinkage and tearing. Cloth ages badly, but the 3500S's Ambla trim stays in good condition for longer. Dashboards can distort in the sun, and door cards often lift. Red leather is rare and unusual, but no more valuable. The Series II's fusebox is a known problem area - the operating temperature of some fuses is higher than the melting point of the fusebox plastic, leading to inevitable shorting out. Most P6s are fitted with an alternator, although a handful of pre- 1970 cars used a dynamo. Since this is prone to regulator failure, only sticklers for originality object to an alternator conversion on these cars.
 
OUR VERDICT
 
If you're looking for a technically audacious classic car that isn't a Citroen DS, then the Rover P6 is an obvious choice. It encapsulates establishment values, feels beautifully made and - with the possible exception of the sluggish 2000 auto - is more than capable of coping with the speeds of modern traffic. And yet, for all of its innovations, it won't break the bank to buy or run, although rarities such as the run-out VIP and FLM Panelcraft estate do command premiums.
Buy now while these cars are still (relatively) cheap. They are durable classics with family practicality, and running-costs are quite reasonable, though greater for the V8s than the four-cylinders. Like all "Rover Company" Rovers, they also have a great deal of charm.

ROVER SD1 REVIEW

As reviled early on as its predecessor was lauded, the Rover SD1 certainly caused a stir at its 1976 launch. With styling reputedly inspired by Ferrari’s 365 GTB/4 ‘Daytona’, the new car’s swooping hatchback shape and modular, blocky interior divide opinion. Ongoing build quality issues did it no favours, though it made a great – if rather unlikely – track and rally car.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Rover SD1 2600

Engine                                    2597cc/6-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  136bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 152lb ft@3750rpm

Top speed                                118mph

0-60mph                                  10.7sec

Consumption                           22.4mpg

Gearbox                                   5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The SD1 suffered various quality-related issues early on, but chief among them was its propensity to leak. The bonded windscreen is a particular nuisance – and expensive to replace – but the rear screen is little better. Check the sunroof too – blocked drain holes will soon cause water ingress.

Elsewhere, sub-standard paintwork was an issue on early cars, but most will have been resprayed by now. Rust appears in all the usual places, but check in particular the boot floor and the area where the inner sill joins the inner rear wheelarch. Check the bulkhead, too – a leaky windscreen will instigate rampant rot here over time.

ENGINE

Some early 2300 and 2600 six-cylinder models suffered from premature wear to their camshafts if oil changes were not rigorously adhered to – an inherent design flaw meant the camshaft oilways got easily blocked, starving the cam of oil and causing the timing belt to fail. Cars with patchy history are more likely to demonstrate a noisy top end, but diesels that are reluctant to start likely just need new glow plugs. V8s should be checked for low oil pressure, cam wear, smoky exhausts and hot running – as the range-topping high performance model, they tend to get thrashed more than other SD1s. Be wary of pricey Vitesses listed as a ‘Twin Plenum’ car. They are rare and only an expert eye can distinguish between a TP and a standard car.

RUNNING GEAR

Manuals are generally tougher than autos, but excessive noise and crunchy shifts – especially from third to second – means the synchromesh is on its way out. Listen for whining bearings, too – replacement with a recon unit is the most cost-effective solution. Autos suit the V8 well, but a failed starter inhibitor switch on later cars will either cause it to stall when ‘drive’ is selected, or actually prevent it from starting.

Excessive oil from the back of the car points to a failing axle (the leak will be coming from the differential). Loud noises from the front suspension when turning from lock to lock are usually down to worn lower balljoints (although the rack itself is known to fail), while errant handling means the rear axle bushes are probably done for. 
A sub-standard hard ride on cars with self-levelling rear suspension means the rare Boge Nivomat shock absorbers have likely failed. Reconditioned or NOS replacements rarely come up for sale, and can command up to £600. 

INTERIOR

The instrument binnacle surround is known for warping and/or cracking and droopy headlinings are common – and tricky to repair or replace. Minor trim and switchgear is getting hard to source, especially on earlier cars, so common failings such as a rattly steering column or broken choke pull can be frustratingly difficult to sort out. Electrics are notoriously hit and miss, with non-functioning windows, sunroof and central locking chief among the culprits.

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OUR VERDICT

All Rover SD1s are elegant, spacious and – in 2600 and V8 guise at least – potent long-distance cruisers. Everyone wants a V8 Vanden Plas or Vitesse, but the 2600 is actually the better bet, offering similar performance but with much more palatable fuel economy.

ROVER 800 REVIEW

The Rover 800 is a roomy, swift and stylish luxury cruiser. We explain why buying the right one can be a rewarding classic experience

Launched in 1986, the 800 was facelifted heavily in 1991 to become the Mk2 before it finally went out of production in 1998. The advent of the chrome grille, and bulbous new body panels were a partially-successful attempt to bulk up the 800’s appeal. The two-door coupé was a stylish addition that may have failed as a range flagship for Rover (exports to the USA, potentially its biggest market, had ceased the previous year), but today it’s a stylish classic that really does combine grace, pace and space.  

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VITAL STATISTICS

1995 Rover 800 Vitesse Sport Coupe 

Engine                                    1994cc/4-cyl/DOHC 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  197bhp@5500rpm 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 184lb ft@4400rpm 

Top speed                                140mph 

0-60mph                                  7.5sec 

Consumption                            30mpg 

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The earlier the car, the less well protected it is, so the combination of age and poor rustproofing means that you need to check the front and rear wheelarches, sunroof aperture and mechanism, and inner and outer sills. You can still buy sill assemblies new, although as it’s a simple structure, most people will choose to repair, rather than replace. Another Mk2 foible is that it will rust merrily away behind the rear lamp clusters – you won’t be aware there’s anything amiss until a blister starts to appear at the edge of the inner rear lights – at that point it’s too late.

ENGINE

Despite Rover’s reputation for producing fragile four-pots, all of the in-house options are capable sloggers. The eight-valve O-Series engine fitted to the 820 fastback (rare now) won’t cause many problems, but it does have a tendency, along with the 16-valve M16 (1986-1991) and T16 (1991-1999) to leak oil, so check thoroughly around the distributor as the cylinder head tends to weep in this area. These engines are critical for cambelts, so ensure that these have been changed at the correct time and mileage. Turbocharged versions are mechanically rugged, but do suffer from problems with their ECUs and associated control systems. Gearboxes aren’t really strong enough for a long life, especially if the car has been ‘chipped’. Listen closely for differential bearing whine in fourth and fifth gear.

The Honda V6 (1986-1995) engines prove exceptionally reliable, though they can develop noisy tappets in later life (ticking at idle is a Honda speciality). This is not serious, but it is recommended to keep these adjusted correctly.

RUNNING GEAR

The 800 does not appear to suffer too much in this department, with the main issues associated with age – with tired dampers and bushes on the rear suspension points to look closely at. Brake pedal feel is soft, and you’ll know if the pads are anywhere near needing replacement because they squeal loudly when they get near to their backing plates. On ABS-equipped models, make sure the warning tell-tale lights up when the car is switched on, but then goes out immediately. 

If this light stays on, you’re looking at replacing the sensors, at the very least, and these are now expensive new (£100-plus per sensor) and difficult to get hold of secondhand. The steering on the Honda version is speed sensitive, and should weight-up with speed. Ensure there are no groans or knocking sounds when turning from lock to lock
at rest. 

INTERIOR

The 800’s main bugbear is its propensity for the fusebox to suffer from dry joints – and this leads to all manner of problems, such as windows that won’t work when the car is warm and central locking that doesn’t lock. So if you come across a car that suffers in this way, the faults can invariably be solved by repairing or replacing the fusebox. There are also ignition and ECU problems on earlier models, along with alarms with minds of their ownand immobilisers that immobilise when you don’t want them to. Failing batteries can cause windows to 

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OUR VERDICT

A Rover 800 is an interesting and commodious classic that’s really quite nice to drive if you find a good one.  

The principal appeal of the V6s is for cruising. The KV6 engined models sound and drive beautifully when they’re working. As for the four-pot naturally aspirated cars, all are efficient (30mpg is easily attained) and pleasant cruisers – but they’re overshadowed by the turbocharged Vitesse models, which in post-1994 Sport trim are amazingly good to drive. For less demanding drivers, a Honda V6 powered car will suit just fine, while keen drivers will love a nice tight Vitesse Sport.

ROVER 75 & MG ZT REVIEW

From traditional charm to sporting saloon, there's a version to suit everyone as we turn the spotlight on Rover's last model and its potent MG sibling...

Launched in 1999, the Rover 75 was the company’s last hurrah before disappearing into a mire of recrimination and obscurity.  And despite being somewhat unusual, boasting gently curving and rather genteel styling amid a sea of sharp-looking executive chargers, it was, and indeed still is, much admired by many enthusiasts.  And in 2001, the company broadened the appeal still further by introducing the MG ZT which brought with it a smattering of sporting accoutrements, not to mention the delightfully bonkers V8 version with its American motor and rear-wheel drive.  Opt for the 75, though, and what you got was a car that was just perfect for pottering to the golf club or swallowing up motorways with relaxed ease.  Smooth riding and impressively refined, it might have lacked the image of rival saloons but there was little doubting its ability, and there was a wide choice of engines from punchy K-Series units to the slick KV6.  Or for extra frugality, the BMW-sourced M47-R diesel was just the ticket boasting crisp throttle response and a relaxed, torquey power delivery.  Inside, well it was no wonder that some commentators dubbed it a ‘baby Bentley’.  Unashamedly retro in its styling, it was a feast of plush seat materials, glossy wood, and glorious cream-faced dials. In fact, it was a thoroughly pleasant place to spend time proving comfortable and well-equipped, especially if you plumped for the top-spec Connoisseur.  A downside was the ultimate lack of passenger space, particularly for those relegated to the rear perches, but the spacious boot was some consolation.  And speaking of space, there was also the option of a spacious estate, or ZT-T if it was wearing the MG octagon.  The sporting variant arrived in 2001, and while not exactly extrovert in its appearance, did just enough to inject some sporting allure.  With petrol (or from 2002, diesel) engines and stiffer suspension it bought British charm to the sporting saloon segment and was a secure and entertaining handler.  Even more entertaining if the 4.6-litre Ford V8 was under the bonnet, stonking performance and a delicious exhaust burble just an ankle flex away.

VITAL STATISTICS

Rover 75 2.0 CDTi

Engine           1951cccc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            133bhp@4000rpm

Torque          192lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed    120mph

0-60mph        11.3secs

Economy      48mpg

Gearbox        5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The good news is that rust shouldn’t be an issue, although it’s worth checking for any bubbles that might have appeared as a result of damage or stone-chips.  And look for the usual scrapes and scuffs on hard-used high-milers; items like bumpers are pricey, even second-hand, while various official body-kits were offered for the MGs, so check they are undamaged.  One bodywork issue to consider, though, is blocked drain holes in the plenum chamber.  It’s an easy fix, but water build-up can damage the engine ECU and pollen filter, with expensive consequences. 

Watch also for broken bonnet cables, noisy boot locks, and water leaks from blocked sunroof drains and around the rear light lenses.  Water getting into the boot can cause electronic gremlins, so check for damp.  The tailgate on estate models featured a separately opening rear window, so it’s worth checking that the latch mechanism works and that water hasn’t been getting past the seals.

Engine

In various states of tune for the Rover and MG variants, petrol engines were 1.8-litre K-Series units in normally aspirated and turbocharged forms, and a smooth six-cylinder KV6.  The former could suffer from head gasket issues at around 30,000 miles but it should have been sorted by now and shouldn’t recur if repaired properly.  Turbos can suffer from split hoses, and there are reports of a dicky fuel pump causing starting issues, while air leaks from the inlet manifold gasket and a faulty Mass Airflow Sensor will cause running problems.  Niggling sensor faults will bring up warning lights on the dash.  The KV6 is a strong unit, but changing the cambelts at six years/90,000 miles is crucial as failure will wreck the engine - special tools are needed so check it’s been done.  The thermostat housing can crack on these engines, too.

The 75’s common-rail 2.0-litre diesel, dubbed M47-R, is a BMW unit and was also added to the ZT range in 2002.  It doesn’t suffer from any real problems although it’s worth listening for rattles indicating a stretched timing chain (it’s a major job to change) and poor running caused by a blocked EGR valve.  Slightly less sensible, though, is the 4.6-litre Ford V8 fitted to the MG ZT 260.  Driving the rear wheels, it makes a great noise and is plenty quick enough, and it’s a reliable lump, too, with parts easily available from specialists.  A niche choice, it’s thirsty if provoked.

Transmission

The Getrag 5-speed manual gearbox is bullet-proof, as is the Tremec unit in the V8.  Just listen out for a rattling Dual Mass Flywheel, issues with clutch hydraulics, and clutch wear on hard used examples as replacement is pricey.  Jatco supplied the 5-speed automatic and it can suffer from occasional gear selection issues, courtesy of electronic glitches.  Make sure it changes smoothly, and there are no dashboard warning lights.  An oil change at around 60,000 miles will keep things healthy mechanically.

The handbrake can play up, thanks to a troublesome metal clip, although it’s a cheap fix, but otherwise the brakes and steering are mainly trouble-free.  It’s worth checking the suspension for rattling drop links and broken springs, and noisy front strut top mounts.  The rear bushes on front lower arms can split, with a specialist charging around £150 to sort both sides.  Uneven rear tyre wear can also be an issue - some cars were misaligned from the factory - but an alignment check and adjustment will sort things.   

INTERIOR

The cabin of a 75 is lovely, but it’s worth checking that lighter hues haven’t become shabby.  Darker-trimmed MG’s fare better in this regard, but with either model you need to ensure that all the kit is working properly.  Minor electrical niggles can afflict both models, and if the airbag warning light is showing it’s almost certainly a loose wiring connection beneath the front seats.  Ensure, too, that both keys are provided as replacing them costs upwards of £150 with re-programming.

OUR VERDICT

It seems certain that future classic status beckons for these cars, and both offer plenty of charm and ability for not much money.  A strong range of engines and trims are a plus, and the plentiful choice means there’s no need to get stuck with a duffer.  For bargain luxury or sporting ability, these models certainly fit the bill.

SAAB 99 REVIEW

The 99 must be one of the most overlooked of all Saabs.
The Saab 99 project was christened ‘Gudmund’ after the name Swedes give to the day of the year on which it began April the 2nd. Saab had realised that a bigger car was needed than the much praised 96, and though Saab loved two-stroke engines, the company realised that four pots were needed for this new family saloon.
British firm Ricardo & Co Engineering was developing a new unit for Standard-Triumph at the time, and Saab asked to be in on the action. The result was that that S-T would build the engine for Saab under a deal signed in 1965. The eventual 1.7-litre engine would be overhead cam – unusual for a family saloon at the time, and mounted at 45 degrees to fit under Gudmund’s bonnet.
Saab carried out extensive testing on the engine, which some describe as being ‘half a V8’ – indeed, Triumph did intend it to be developed into such a specification at later stage. A much uprated version of the gearbox from the Triumph 1300 was chosen, and the new car was front-wheel-drive.
Project Gudmund, now the Saab 99, was unveiled to an intrigued public in Stockholm on 22 November 1967, though it wouldn’t go on sale to the public until the following autumn. The car was an instant success. A rigid safety cage and servo-assisted dual circuit brakes all round were fitted, and Saab took great pains to keep corrosion at bay.
The 99 made its American debut in 1969, the same year the cars enjoyed a minor interior upgrade and an automatic became available a year later. This had fuel injection, already fitted as an option to some American-spec cars. Four-door versions were made available from 1970.
Some had felt the car was underpowered, so the engine was uprated to 1854cc for 1971 models. These cars also received a revised dashboard, an uprated brake servo and (on most cars), headlamp wash/wipers, together with heated front seats. You also got impact absorbing bumpers, just one of a whole range of safety features that led to several major industry awards.
Just over 35,000 cars were built in 1971, and demand increase yet further year on year. From 1972, a sporty fuel injection EMS (Electronic Manual Special) version became available In 1974 a Combi, or Wagonback with an open rear hatch was unveiled and the following year a 100bhp 2.0-litre engine became standard – these were produced in Sweden, since British production of Saab engines had ended. Two versions were available a 100bhp single carb model; and a fuel injection alternative boasting 118bhp (115bhp for American market cars).
In 1976 came a five-door Combi and luxury GLE trim, with an automatic gearbox, but nothing stirred the soul in the same way as did Saab’s 99 Turbo – this landmark car was unveiled at the 1977 Franfkfurt Motor Show, and could out-accelerate a Jaguar XJ6 3.4 over a standard quarter mile.
From this amazing high, the 99 was to fall quickly from grace with the launch of the new 900 in 1978, though the earlier car remained in production until 1984, and was fitted with the H engine from 1982. However the show was not all over, with a hybrid 90 model (basically a 99 forward of the B-pillar and a 900 at the back) built between 1984-7. No, we’re not sure why, either!
"Saab doesn’t build cars. It builds Saabs." So said one American commentator, and there’s probably no better way of summing up the extraordinary Swedish firm and its pre-GM products. And no Saab is more undeservedly overlooked than the 99. Despite being in production for 16 years, it seems to have fallen between the much coveted 95/96 and the better known 900, though this latter was based on the 99.

SAAB 900 TURBO REVIEW

Turbocharging was once the domain of the fast and exotic, till Saab got to work and offered the Saab 900.

Prior to the 1980s, mainstream British motoring was largely devoid of turbochargers. During the 1960s, Chevrolet and Oldsmobile had experimented with turbocharging in the US, and BMW and Porsche were to go further the following decade by developing two iconic sports cars the 2002 Turbo and 911 Turbo respectively. But neither of these were the sort of vehicles you’d see very often in the real world. Especially not suburban Berkshire.

The car that truly ushered in turbocharging for the common man came from an unexpected source Saab. The small Swedish manufacturer realised that to remain competitive in the vital American market, the performance and economy of its cars had to go up, while emissions had to go down. Without the means to develop a new engine, it instead turned to turbocharging, a field in which it already had some considerable experience thanks to its links with Scania trucks.

The Saab 99 Turbo was unleashed in 1977, but it wasn’t until 1979 that the Swedes got everything completely right with the launch of the 900 Turbo. This reincarnation of the 99 concept – styling was updated, a new interior fitted, and the wheelbase was extended by two inches – managed to pull off the near impossible trick of being reassuringly safe and solid yet hugely exciting at the same time.

Whether by accident or by design – and, being Scandinavian, it was probably very clever design – Saab managed to create one of the most desirable performance cars of the 1980s. What truly made the 900 stand out from the crowd was its blend of performance with practicality, with everything wrapped up in a handsome automotive package that didn’t just appeal to Mr Average Driver but could also be afforded by him as well.

Saab continued to refine the Turbo throughout the 1980s and on into the 1990s. Despite spawning a host of imitators – once the floodgates had been opened, it was inevitable that other manufacturers would come forth with their equivalents – the Trollhattan manufacturer managed to stay on top with the thinking person’s turbo of choice. The first cars offered 145bhp, almost 50 per cent up on the normally-aspirated standard versions. With the advent of the 16-valve model of 1985, that power jumped to 175bhp, while tuners could extract more than 200 if they tried hard. Which had a similar effect to strapping a jet engine to an IKEA wardrobe.

Bearing in mind today’s automotive environment of constant styling nips and tucks, you have to give respect to Saab for ploughing its own distinctive path for such a long time. Like Volkswagen with its Beetle, Citroën with its 2CV, fellow Swede Volvo with its 140/240 range and BMC/BL/Rover with the Mini, Saab hit upon a shape it liked and stuck with it. The 99 model dates back to 1967; for the 900, there was only a minor facelift necessary to take the car right the way through to 1993, a production run of 26 years. Even then, General Motor’s disappointing replacement aped the old design, taking the general look through to 2002.

This makes the 900 an instantly familiar machine, and a reassuring one at that. The typical Swedish approach to engineering is to build with all the structural integrity of a preglobal warming Arctic glacier. That means the 900 exudes quality and robustness, from its stocky black moose-proof bumpers through to those hefty rear haunches concealing the capacious luggage area. On the two-door coupé – the body style that most Turbos came in – the doors seem massive and very heavy, far thicker than many cars of the era. They shut with the resonating thud that inspires total confidence. With no conventional sills to clamber over – they’re inset because the doors plunge down so low to envelop them – this is one of the easier classics to clamber in and out of.

Inside, the spacious – and thankfully heated seats – place you in front of an aircraft-inspired dashboard populated by plenty of chunky switches and circular knobs. The aviation theme is reinforced by the panoramic windscreen. Visibility is excellent, the A-posts hardly intruding into the driver’s usual visual sweep.

Where to put the key? Oh yes, down on the centre console, between the gearstick and handbrake (Saab’s favourite security feature being a transmission lock). Turn it and... To be honest, nothing much actually happens. There’s no meaty roar and great gulp of air as one of the great performance models of its era stirs into life. On the contrary, the polite metallic cough of the electronic ignition is followed by a small rush of revs that instantly drops back into a quiet and civilised idle.

And the 900 stays that way – at least until you can get it somewhere to properly exploit the Garret AiResearch whirligig under the bonnet. Around town and at slow speeds, it feels very normal, almost mundane. It’s responsive enough and an easy car to drive, with very well-balanced power steering that’s suited to what feels like a large, heavy vehicle. But there’s nothing much special going on.

Out in the open, though, the 900 becomes a different beast. At 1800rpm, the turbo cuts in, feeling for all the world like a giant has just put two hands on the Saab’s backside and shoved hard. You’re pushed back in your seat by a surge of acceleration that takes the unwary by surprise. Care is needed on bends, especially in the wet, for torque steer is provoked by the boost cutting in as the wheel is turned. But it’s on A-roads and motorways that the 900 excels. It is one of the great overtakers cruising along, there’s no need to drop a gear to get past a slow-moving obstacle, just floor the accelerator and the turbocharger does the rest. Top gear in a Turbo is like third gear in something else.

This level of performance is thrilling. But what gives it an extra edge is the knowledge that you’re in a car where the handling and safety are more than a match for the potential to get into trouble. The front-wheel drive is predictable and neutral, there’s little roll, the ride is smooth and well-damped, and the brakes are well up to the task of stopping this hefty block of Scandinavian granite. Even now that turbochargers are part of everyday motoring life, you can still see what all the fuss was about.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1985cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power: 175bhp@5500rpm

Torque: 201lb ft@3000rpm

Maximum speed: 126mph

0-60mph: 7.9 sec

Fuel consumption: 23-28mpg

Transmission: FWD, five-spd man/three-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body basics

Despite a good reputation, the 900 isn't immune from corrosion. The wheelarches, sills, and door bottoms are all susceptible, and also check around the transmission tunnel where road muck accumulates. Look at the front bulkhead, battery tray, and screen surrounds too, as well as the double-skinned sections of the bonnet. Check around the fuel-filler and the sunroof too, as the latter suffers from blocked drain holes. And bear in mind that bodykits and plastic cladding could be hiding rot, so don't assume things are okay. Quality plastics mean the former can be repaired or there's the secondhand route.

Get down under

Don't ignore the underside either, as corrosion can attack the fuel tank and rear crossmember as well as the radiator support beam and the lower corners of the boot floor. If the jacking points are badly affected, rot could have spread into the floor and sills so be extra cautious. Suspension mountings will need careful examination, too, particularly around the front chassis members which act as lower wishbone mounting points. Front suspension turrets, rear damper top mounts and rear trailing arms mounts can become frilly as well.

Engine exam

Conscientious maintenance and regular oil/filter changes will see engines cover big mileages wihtout trouble. Head gasket failure or timing chain issues are uncommon unless the motor is neglected, and while the turbocharger itself rarely gives trouble watch for blue exhaust smoke on accelerations or overrun. Failed ignition modules can be an issue, while parts for the early Bosch K-Jetronic injection are getting scarce. You'll want to ensure the cooling system is healthy, too., so look for evidence of regular collant changes and signs of leaks from the radiator or water pump.

Manifold destiny

One problem that does rear its head (which is labour-intensive to fix) is broken exhaust manifold studs so check them carefully. The manifolds can crack, evidenced by a tell-tale ticking, and if the top-end of the engine is noisy bear in mind that valve-clearance adjustment is by fiddly shims on eight-valve engines while 16-valve units employed hydraulic tappets. A complete engine rebuild for a T16S can reach £5000 so be wary of tired or abused units. Lastly, high under-bonnet temperatures lead to brittle wirign and pipework while diagnosing problems with the APC (Automatic Performance Control) boost and knock-control system is best left to a specialist. By the way, a red APC control box indicates the uprated 185bhp engine is fitted.

Into gear

Transmissions are a weak point, and while the lower power outputs mean the early four-speeder fares better, the five-speed 'box is another matter. Failure of the pinion bearing and layshaft bearing wear are the main issues, and a repair or rebuild is nigh-on £2000. Beware of a noisy or obstructive unit, or one that jumps out of gear, although the chain-drive to the box should be trouble-free. Ensure that clutch operation is okay as the master cylinder can fail, and listen for the clicking of worn CV joints. the three-speed automatic isn't espceially smooth but is reliable.

Anchors away

Aside from general wear and tear, brakes rarely give trouble. Lack of use can lead to sticking calipers, especially at the front where the handbrake operated on pre-1987 cars, and it's worth ensuring that ABS-equipped models aren't showing any warning lights. PAS fluid leaks aren't uncommon so check around the pump and pipework for any moisture.  

Cabin clues

Interior quality is sturdy but it's worth checking the fascia for cracks around the speaker grilles - as replacements are rare and expensive. Tweeter speakers that fit are also in demand, and command a premium. A sagging headlining is a common issue and time consuming to sort, while leather-trimmed seat bases in T16 models can suffer from collapsing foam. Using the foam bass from the 9000 model is a potential fix. Ensure that all the electrics and various motors are working although inoperative cruise control isn't unusual and may have been ignored by a previous owner. Dampness in the passenger footwell is a heater matrix or control valve that;s had it. Convertible hood mechanisms aren't known for giving trouble, and replacement hoods can be found for around £1200.

Our verdict

The 900 is quirky and distinctive compared with its contemporary rivals, and that makes it a very appealing proposition as a classic tinged with '80s nostalgia. Add the performance credentials of the Turbo, and it's a car that you really can use and enjoy every day. Major restoration work can get pricey, mind, but find a good one and look after it, and it'll last forever.

SAAB 9000 REVIEW

The result of a collaboration with Fiat Group, the Saab 9000 was supposed to have been closely related to the Fiat Croma, Lancia Thema and Alfa Romeo 164. In the event, it shared very little with those cars, other than the Type 4 platform, thanks to multiple disagreements between their respective engineers. While those Italian cousins are now almost extinct, the 9000 survives in relatively high numbers because of a longer production span and much better sales.

VITAL STATISTICS

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK
The Saab 9000 was designed to cope with Sweden's harsh winters, so serious corrosion shouldn't be an issue. You do need to check for poorly repaired bodywork damaged though, so take a close look for evidence of rust or rippling on the nose, rear quarter panels, boot floor and front inner wings. Also check the front wheelarches - if the two-piece protective liners are missing, the paintwork will be damaged and rust is likely to have set in.

Because the 9000 was built to crumple in a crash, to protect its occupants, even a relatively minor impact can lead to structural damage. If there's evidence of ripples in the roof, just walk away - and the same goes if the doors are tight in their apertures. There are also some areas that may have corroded if the car hasn't been cherished. The roof sometimes rusts, especially if there's a factory-fitted sliding sunroof and if there's significant rot here, repairs will cost more than the car's worth.

The lower trailing edge of the front and rear doors can also look scabby, rot caused by the drain holes getting blocked and the doors filling up with water. Repairs are possible, but fitting replacement doors can be easier - although those for facelifted 9000s (from 1992) are subtly different from earlier ones. The reflective 'tailblazer' rear panel loos dated now, but it was of its time. Where earlier 9000s are concerned, these fade and crack with age, and decent replacements are scarce.

ENGINES
There were three petrol engines available: 2.0- or 2.3-litre 16-valve four-cylinder units, or a 3.0-litre V6. There were no diesels and the four-cylinder engines came in normally aspirated or turbocharged guises; the V6 was non-turbo only. The four-cylinder engines have a timing chain; from 1990, the 2.3-litre unit also uses this to drive the balancer shafts. The chain sometimes needs to be replaced at 70,000-100,000 miles, but will last over 200,000 miles with regular oil changes. Expect to pay £900 to have the work done (a DIT kit costs £190), but it will mean removing the engine. Fresh fully-synthetic oil every 6000 miles will reduce the need for chain replacement.

The V6s have a cambelt instead of a chain, which should be replaced every six years or 60,000 miles. Being an interference fit, if the belt breaks, the engine will be wrecked; a specialist should charge £250 or so to replace the cambelt.

Another weakness is head gasket failure on the four-cylinder engines, given away by the unit running on three cylinders when cold - also check for a mayonnaise-like substance on the underside of the oil filter cap. A specialist will charge about £400 to replace the gasket. Don't leave it.

On four-cylinder cars, check that the exhaust manifold studs are intact. They become brittle then snap, and replacing them is a nightmare. Whatever engine is fitted, check the hydraulic engine mounts, which eventually fail.

Cars with traction control can suffer from uneven idling, thanks to failure of the system's ECU. If another is substituted, it needs to be programmed to work, and with both new and used parts in short supply, you can't assume the problem is fixable by anybody other than a well-equipped Saab specialist. A tatty 9000 with a duff traction control ECU may be beyond economical repair. With Turbos and later 2.3i models, misfiring is probably down to the direct ignition (DI) unit failing. The DI unit replaces the distributor. New ones cost £270, with V6s having two. Don't be tempted to fit reconditioned items because they tend to fail within months. Also, replacing the spark plugs on a V6 is a nightmare because of poor access, so if this engine is fitted it may just need some fresh plugs if it's running badly.

TRANSMISSIONS

Generally, 9000 buyers got a choice of five-speed manual or four-speed ZF automatic transmissions. The former is pretty much bomb-proof, although post-1994 cars can give trouble with reverse gear selection. The auto-boxes are also pretty tough, but they wear out after 150,000 miles or so - even if the fluid and filter have been changed religiously every 24,000 miles, as per Saab's schedule.

When a rebuild is due, the ratio changes become snatchy, so take an extended test drive, let everything get warm, and make sure all is smooth. You can buy a decent secondhand auto-box for £350-400 and you can expect to pay the same again to have it fitted. The alternative is to get the gearbox rebuilt; expect to pay £1400 to have the work done by a reputable specalist. If buying an automatic, also check the transmission's oil cooler pipes for corrosion - a new set costs £120.

On manual-box 9000s, make sure the clutch isn't slipping, as replacement is involved and therefore costly - about £600, including the clutch slave cylinder, which is inside the gearbox itself. As a result, if the slave cylinder is leaking, replacement of that on its own isn't straightforward.

Until 1994, the manual's shift quality was pretty rubbish, but later cars are much better. However, by now, gear selection issues are likely because the Metalastik bush in the selector rod or the gearbox mounting bushes will have disintegrated. New ones are available, in rubber or polyurethane - they're cheap, and reasonably easy to fit.

STEERING & SUSPENSION

All 9000s were fitted with power steering, and while the system is reliable, the hoses can leak because of loose clips; you need to check for leaks in the offside front inner wing. The racks themselves seem to last forever though. The suspension is also very reliable. Springs and dampers rarely need replacing but track rod ends and the front suspension balljoints wear eventually. New ones are just £15 apiece, and replacing them is an easy half-hour job.

WHEELS & BRAKES

Some 9000s came on steel wheels, but most survivors have alloys. Standard cars got 15in rims while the Aero got 16in items. All these alloys corrode but they don't go porous, they're freely available (although Carlsson rims are rarer) and they're all interchangeable with each other, too. The brakes are conventional, with all cars getting discs all round and anti-lock technology. Everything is available and problems are rare; it's worth checking for perished hoses, corroded pipes and an ABS light that stays on. In the case of the latter, it's probably down to a faulty wheel sensor. New ones cost £160.

TRIM & ELECTRICS

While top-spec 9000s came with hide trim, cloth is fitted to many examples. Whatever is fitted, it'll be hard-wearing. Indeed, the 9000's cabin is so durable that it's a clocker's dream. Most surviving 9000s are very well equipped, with plenty of gadgets. Items such as electric mirror and seat adjustment motors can go on the blink, but they are usually pretty reliable.

Another potential issue is the heater blower, which sometimes works only on full speed because of its resistor block failing, but replacing this is a half-hour job. The heater matrix can also leak. New ones cost £110 and replacement is fiddly, but it's a DIY proposition. Check that the heated seats work, as the wires in the seat pad break. Again, DIY repairs are possible but fiddly. Finally, ensure the ignition switch works, because the contacts can go on the blink. Replacement is straightforward, with new switches costing £69.
 

OUR VERDICT

Of the Type 4 shared-platform cars, the Saab 9000 was the longest-lived of all, but despite production spanning 13 years, and with 503,000 examples produced, this luxobarge is already in the shadows.

Early 9000s are now rare. Most of the cars available are from the last three years of production, which means you'll probably end up with a turbocharged model.

Other rarities include saloons and V6s, but the hatch offers better practicality and the four-pot engines have plenty of muscle - especially the turbocharged 2.3-litre unit.

There are still low-mileage truly cherished cars about, and if you don't mind spending £5000 you could secure a really nice Aero or Carlsson - one of the most usable Q-cars ever created. 

Saab 9000

SAAB 96 REVIEW

The 96 was the car that brought international success to Saab, both in sales and on rally circuits.

Launched in 1960 and remaining in production all the way through to 1980, the 96 was the car that threw the international spotlight on Saab as one of Europe’s quirkier but quality manufacturers

The individualistic teardrop shape was born out of the marque’s aviation origins and clearly related to the Ursaab of 1947. Although there were tweaks in the styling during the car’s life, the fundamental appearance stayed mostly the same for its 20-year manufacturing run. 

In 1965, the ‘bull nose’ front was lengthened ready for a new engine. The initial three-cylinder two-stroke engine continued to be used until 1967, after which Ford’s V4 unit from the Taunus was adopted. Throw in front-wheel drive and freewheel transmission and these are cars that intrigue with their mechanical novelty, impress with their build quality and surprise with their overall ability. 

VITAL STATISTICS

SAAB 96 V4

Engine                                    1498cc/V4/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  65bhp@4700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 85lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed                                93mph

0-60mph                                  16.5sec

Consumption                            29.4mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Likely corrosion points are the front inner wings close to the suspension mounts and outer ones around the indicators. Rust can break out around the windscreen and will spread to the bulkhead due to blocked drain holes. Sills can also rot, along with doors if their drain holes get blocked. At the rear, inner rear wheelarches corrode, as does the boot floor, especially at the point where the mudflaps attach on the outside. Suspension mountings should also be checked; lift the back seat, and also check the inner back wings. Later cars have stoneguards fitted, which probably do more harm than good as they can harbour corrosion. 

ENGINE

Two-stroke engines have just seven moving parts. However, they can rust internally if laid up, as oil is only present if the engine is running. Listen for rumbles from the main bearings and small end noise. V4 engines are resilient, but the fibre balance shaft gear can strip itself from 50,000 miles upwards. See if it has been replaced; metal ones are available but they increase noise levels. Try to pull the fanbelt pulley up and down – if there’s play, it suggests the balancer shaft bearings are worn, also indicated by the oil lamp flickering at idle. The standard Ford Autolite carburettors have a bad reputation; sensible owners fit a single-choke Weber. 

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RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were three-speed up to 1966 and four-speed thereafter. They’re a weak point and oil should have been changed every 6000 miles. The first sign of problems is usually when the freewheel stops working – you’ll get a whirring noise and a loss of power. Post-1974 V4s had tougher gearboxes and selection problems are usually down to adjustment in the steering column or linkage. Clutch judder can strike the V4 models.

With regards to suspension, try to get underneath and check the lower damper mountings; they can come adrift from the wishbones. Front suspension bushes wear with age. Check them by eye and also see if the steering is vague during a test drive. 

You’ll find drum brakes on the ‘normal’ two-stroke cars, and front discs on Sports and V4s. They rarely give trouble but handbrakes do, as the operating arms in the hubs wear out. They need to be reshaped and rewelded to be effective again.

INTERIOR

Interior trim is hard to source, so ensure what’s there is reasonable. Rear seat tops suffer from sun damage and the parcel shelf tends to bow in the middle. Check the front and rear screen seals – they’re near-impossible to find for two-stroke cars and V4 variants are scarce, too. Ignition locks should be lubricated, otherwise they get gunged up and, because they lock the transmission, the car will be immobilised. Feel how stiff things are when starting. 

With electrics, most trouble is down to damp or corrosion issues in the fusebox, under the bonnet on the bulkhead. If the headlamps are playing up, it’s probably the relay in the same area.

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OUR VERDICT

Because they’re different and quite eccentric, as well as being rugged. While the two-stroke cars are hard to find, they’re definitely the quirkiest and purest of the bunch. V4 cars are more common and more practical in terms of performance, spares availability and general use. Prices are still quite reasonable given the scarcity of the cars these days. 

A 96 is a machine you’ll never get bored of driving – or even just looking at and admiring that very distinctive shape.  

SAAB 900 REVIEW

Saabs have always been just a little different from the mainstream. The 900 is a perfect example of that and is often seen as the thinking man’s alternative to other family and middle-ranking executive models. 

 There’s a real solidity to the way the 900 goes about its business, with every control having a meaty directness to its operation. There’s no slack or slop here, just positive responses that inspire confidence whatever the road or weather conditions, and as a classic that makes for an ideal everyday driver. 

The 900 corners with little body roll and resists understeer well, and with good bump absorption long journeys are relaxing and stress-free. Steering and braking are very assured too. It’s a great motorway mile-muncher. 

Solid construction does add weight, which blunts things a little, but a 900 feels acceptably brisk and is rarely found wanting in the cut and thrust of everyday motoring. And if you want extra go, the addictive turbocharged shove of the 175bhp Turbo 16S is on hand to provide the thrills. That feeling of solidity is found in the cabin too, where you’ll enjoy first-rate comfort and ergonomics, even if the aircraft-related comparisons that were so beloved of the advertisers are a little wide of the mark in reality. 

The view out of the curved slot-like windscreen might seem unusual at first but you soon come to appreciate the clear dashboard layout and chunky, well-placed controls. Factor-in impressive levels of refinement – engine, road, and wind noise are commendably low – and if you’re faced with a long journey after a tough day at the office, the 900 will soon soothe-away the stresses. 

It’s easy to see why so many executives were attracted by the quirky Swede back in the day, and it makes just as much sense today. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Saab 900 Turbo 16S

Engine                                    1985cc/4-cylinder/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  175bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 201lb ft@3000 

Top speed                                126mph

0-60mph                                  7.5sec  

Consumption                           27mpg

Gearbox                                   5-speed man/3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The 900 resists corrosion well, but it isn’t completely immune so you’ll need to check a few areas. One place is around the transmission tunnel which accumulates road muck, but rust also affects the wheel arches, sills, and the double-skinned sections of the bonnet. The front bulkhead and valance can go too and check the area around the fuel filler cap, the front and rear screen surrounds, and the bottoms of the doors.

It’s worth taking a look underneath, as the fuel tank and rear crossmember are susceptible to rotting out, while the jacking points and the corners of the boot floor are other weak spots. Check the support beam for the radiator along with the battery tray, and ensure that there’s nothing nasty lurking behind the bodykit on Turbo 16S models.

ENGINE

Regular oil changes are the key to engine longevity, with all units capable of big mileages before a re-build is required. Timing chains should last in excess of 100,000 miles and they can be replaced with the engine in situ. Tappets on 8-valve models are adjusted by shims and it’s a fiddly job, while 16-valvers use hydraulic items. Watch for corroded and leaking radiators, leaky water pumps, and for signs of oil around the bulkhead which is usually caused by leaks from the rear crankshaft seal or oil pump cover – fortunately, both can be renewed with the engine in place.   

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

RUNNING GEAR

Turbo models are just as reliable as their normally-aspirated brethren with conscientious maintenance, although excessive blue smoke from the exhaust should ring alarm bells. High under-bonnet temperatures can lead to brittle pipework so examine it carefully, and listen for the ticking that indicates a cracked exhaust manifold.   

A 900 that suffers from difficulty engaging gears, jumps out of gear, or whines excessively, has succumbed to a common problem. Some cover many miles without issue but it is a known weakness, often caused by failure of the pinion bearing that was beefed-up – not entirely successfully – on later models. The chain drive from engine to gearbox rarely gives trouble though. Turbo power can exacerbate gearbox issues, so be extra vigilant on these, and check for clutch slippage as well. Clutch master cylinders are a weak point on most models, and you should also listen-out for clicking CV joints. The three-speed automatic is reasonably robust, albeit not the smoothest unit.

BRAKES

Wear and tear aside, the suspension is largely trouble-free although you do need to check for corrosion around the mounting points. Problem areas are the lower front suspension turrets, rear damper top mounts, and the mounting points for the rear trailing arms. The handbrake operated on the front wheels on pre-1987 models, so watch for sticking calipers. Leaks from the power steering hydraulics or a tired rack are the extent of any steering issues. 

INTERIOR

The solid interior is a real plus point, so serious wear and tear will be obvious. Sagging headlining is common and is fiddly to sort, and check the dashboard for cracks around the speaker grilles. A damp passenger footwell is a sign that the heater matrix or control valve has had it. Ensure the motors for central locking, sunroof, and windows still work. 

OUR VERDICT

Practical, refreshingly different, and offering solid build and impressive durability, the 900 gets our vote. It’s a classic you can use every day whatever the road and weather conditions. There are plenty to choose from, so avoid neglected examples and you’ll enjoy some Swedish charm.

Saab 900

SIMCA 1000 REVIEW

Simca originally commenced car production in 1935, building Fiats under licence. After the Second World War, Simca went its own way, buying up Ford’s French operations to create the Vedette and launching its own design, the Aronde.

However, Simca can’t have been keen on independence and as well as retaining links with Ford and subsequently Chrysler, the old alliance with Fiat never really went away. That’s how a very Fiat-like design became the 1000. In effect, it was a rejected concept for what became the Fiat 850 but Simca thought it would be an ideal rival to Renault’s rear-engined saloons, and they were not wrong.

Almost two million were built but they remain little-known in this country. That’s partly because a great many have rusted away but also because Chrysler had their own rear-engined baby in the form of the Imp, so Chrysler UK can’t have been that keen to promote an in-house rival on home soil.

In typical Fiat fashion, there was a transverse leaf spring up front offering independent suspension, drum brakes, worm and roller steering and a four-cylinder engine at the rear. Initially, there was also the joy of swing axles but the range was extensively revamped in 1968 for the 1969 season. Larger lights front and rear were the external giveaways but all engines were updated and larger capacities were available for the first time. Semi-trailing arms calmed things down at the back while a new multi-leaf transverse spring tamed the front end which also now benefited from rack-and-pinion steering. All but the 944cc 1000s now had disc brakes at the front too.

Posh 1000 Supers and hot ‘Rallye’ versions followed but only the initial Rallye 1 was officially sold in the UK. The Rallyes and the later 1000SR had 1294cc engines and 60bhp. The Rallye 2 and 3 boasted twin-carburettor engines however, and this enabled them to top the ton with ease. A shame we didn’t get them here then.

Another facelift in 1976 saw the introduction of rectangular headlamps but the writing was on the wall for the now ageing design, and production ended in June 1978.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 944cc 4-cylinder OHV
Power 40bhp@5800rpm
Torque 47lb ft@2800rpm
Top Speed 82mph
0-60mph 22sec
Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Rust is a big issue, though really they’re no worse than many other small Sixties/Seventies saloons. However, the French have a nasty habit of using layers of thin metal sheet to strengthen certain areas – a trick used to great effect on the Citroen DS – and that means built in rust traps that can be tricky to repair.

Starting from the front, check the inner wheelarches and the top suspension mountings. Blocked drainage holes for the ventilation system can riddle the bulkhead with rot and leaky windscreen rubbers will not help matters.

Sills and floors will rust but the sills are not complicated, and you can form your own replacements. Watch the front floors – after about 1973, there was reinforcing crossmember, but this is open ended and yet another areao for the orange menace to gain a footing. A posts can corrode around the door hinges but a bigger problem is the rear door slam/wheelarch area. This is where the strength from the sills is transferred to the rear, where the engine is mounted. It’s a critical area but one that can rot all too readily. Check for bodges as well as corrosion.

In terms of panels, door bottoms and the edges of the boot/engine lids can corrode and while front/rear wings will also do likewise, these are bolt-on and can be replaced by glassfibre items.

Trim is obviously going to be an issue and chrome side trims for the GLS are so tricky to find that most restorers don’t bother with them.

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

The engine may have Fiat origins but it formed the basis of all Simca engines up to the 1592cc Solara engine of the Eighties. The Peugeot 309 still used the same basic motor. And yes, that does explain why they possess the typical Simca rattle! That top end noise is reduced in the 1000 as the engine is bolt-upright and not slanted. However, you should still check for excessive chatter. Otherwise, engines are pretty reliable – though while some components are shared with FWD engines, they actually rotate the opposite way!

The gearbox suffers from weak synchromesh – peculiar as Porsche were involved in this aspect. 2nd gear suffers most and may not appreciate swift changes. The linkage is pretty good for a rear-engined cars, though later cars used a rubber connector beneath the rear seat which can develop massive play. Most retro-fit the earlier metal design.

However, the clutch slave cylinder is beneath the fuel tank in the engine bay, and hard to get at.

STEERING, SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

You’re far more likely to find a later rack-and-pinion steered 1000 than the earlier type, though play is even less desirable with the improved set-up. Balljoints are pretty robust.

The transverse leaf spring can sag and when it’s really bad, the tyres will catch on the front wings. Something to watch for.

Brakes were initially all drum though the Rallye 2 had all-discs and front-discs were available post-1969. Faults are rare unless a car has been standing, and all parts are available. However, the master cylinders are in the pedal box area, so working on them requires some acrobatics!

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

Rallyes and SRs had bucket seats but rather more standard fare was on offer for lesser models. Still, they should be comfortable, though the earlier vinyl type can be surprisingly springy! Cloth trim can degrade with time. The French are masters at making material that gets destroyed by UV light.

Similarly, French electrics are never the best, and we write that as French car enthusiasts! You may encounter frustrations but this is usually little more than poor or dirty connections.

VERDICT

They’re enormous fun to drive, as long as you bear the rear-engine limitations into account, and have oodles of character. They’re comfortable for a small car too and upgrades are available for those who would like to entertain that thought. Even in standard form though, performance is not disgraceful and their simple nature makes them an ideal DIY prospect.

SKODA 110 REVIEW

Rear-engined coupé thrills for a fraction of Porsche 911 prices? Buy the surprising Skoda S110R.

On paper, the Skoda S110R is simply a coupé version of the rear-engined 110 saloon. In reality, not only was the Czech-built fastback a handsome machine, but competent both on the road and on the track. While fire-breathing competition iants stormed rally stages, more than 57,000 roadgoing examples rolled out of Skoda’s Kvasiny factory between 1970 and 1981. Lively, if not eye-watering, performance from the 1107cc four-pot, coupled to an entertaining chassis means that, providing you can find one, the ’70s 2+2 is a first-class choice for driving enjoyment.

WHY SHOULD I BUY ONE?

Although Skoda’s image has only improved in recent years to those in the know, the rear-engined Skodas have always polarised opinion. Attractive and with plenty of Eastern European charm, the S110R is a hoot if you like your classics to be just a little different from the norm. Not only can they be a lot of fun, but ownership is unlikely to break the bank, thanks to low running costs – provided you don’t have to search for replacement parts. Coupled with a vibrant club scene, the Skoda makes a very friendly route into the classic car world.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

SKODA S110R
Engine 1107cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power 62bhp@5500rpm
Torque 64lb ft@3500rpm
Top Speed 90mph
0-60mph 17.7sec
Economy 33mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK 

The S110R’s steel outer panels are all bolt-on items, so the key to the car’s strength lies with the monocoque bodyshell. Check the rear of the sills for crustiness – water ingress due to a failed seal between the rear wing and body can wreak havoc. Also rust-prone but difficult to repair are the rear suspension trailing-arm mounting points – ensure that you inspect these closely. The boot hinge mounts are similarly vulnerable to corrosion.
The coupé’s rear panels are unique to the model, as are the doors, which are longer than saloon items. As the latter have a habit of rotting out, take a close look at their lower edges – repairs could be required. The front wings and front panel are shared with the saloons, although you’ll be doing well if you can find replacement body panels – everything is scarce, so don’t underestimate the work involved on a scruffy S110R. Glassfibre front wings are available in the UK, however, but you’ll need to search the Czech Republic for GRP panels which replicate the bulging lines of the 130RS.

ENGINE 

The 1107cc slant-four features a cast-iron cylinderhead perched on top of an aluminium block, fed by a twin-choke Jikov carburettor. Provided the cooling system, which uses a front-mounted radiator, is in good condition, this set-up should be more than capable of the task of cooling the engine. However, if this has been neglected in the past and anti-freeze levels allowed to drop, then
the aluminium waterways will have suffered, in extreme cases leading to the block cracking.
Cylinderheads can crack between cylinders, causing rough running, while mating faces can warp. Also make the usual checks for ‘mayonnaise’ in the oil, suggesting head gasket failure. A clonking sound while the engine is running could simply be that an engine mount has failed, allowing block and bodywork to meet. Ask if the engine oil has been changed every 3000 miles.

RUNNING GEAR 

The four-speed gearbox not only has synchromesh on all gears, but is unlikely to cause trouble, provided its lubricant has been changed every 12,000 miles. A stubbornness to engage second or third gear, however, spells replacement. To improve motorway cruising, a five-speed unit from a later rear-engine Skoda can be fitted – provided the gearbox tunnel is altered. In extreme cases, the differential can strip its gears.
The independent suspension uses coil springs all round, together with swing axles at the rear. This set-up requires greasing every 6000 miles to keep it in fine form – ask the owner if this has been done. 
The front disc and rear drum brakes are pretty standard fare, with the option when new of servo assistance. Later 120 Estelles used this system, which aids spares sourcing.

INTERIOR 

Interior trim isn’t especially durable, made worse by the unavailability of replacement items. In ‘70s Eastern European fashion, the dash switchgear isn’t particularly sturdy, so be prepared for a long search if any is missing or broken.

STANDARD EIGHT SALOON REVIEW

In adopting the modern unitary method of body/chassis construction, Standard was late in the field when compared with its domestic rivals, some of whom had unitary models on sale in the late 1930s. Post-WW2, Morris had already introduced the Alec Issigonis-designed Minor and Austin the A30 both new unitised designs before Standard woke up and gave us the Standard Eight in 1953. A direct competitor of the Minor and A30, the Eight was entirely conventional by the standards of its day, with 803cc overhead-valve engine, independent front suspension and live rear axle. Spartanly equipped, that first Eight offered little in the way of creature comforts or embellishment, featuring sliding windows, negligible trim and access to the boot via the interior, although all of these shortcomings would be addressed by the time production ceased in 1959.