Saab

SAAB 900 ‘NEW GENERATION’

General Motors underpinnings mean second generation Saab 900s have less of a following. But interest is growing, says RICHARD GUNN

The handsome convertibles are probably the most desirable variants of this generation of 900

The handsome convertibles are probably the most desirable variants of this generation of 900

General Motors’ financial stake in Saab from 1989 onwards was bound to bring profound changes for the Swedish manufacturer that prided itself on quality and quirkiness. The ‘new generation’ 900used the Opel Vectra/Vauxhall Cavalier platform underneath a body that aped the previous incarnation’s distinctive wedge shape, but updated it for the 1990s. However, quality suffered as did charisma, leading to GM tweaking the car in 1998 and renaming it the 9-3.


VITAL STATISTICS

Saab 900 2.5 V6

Engine                                    2498cc/V6/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  168bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 168lb ft@4200rpm

Top speed                                130mph

0-60mph                                  9.3sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    5-spd manual/4-spd automatic


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust isn’t usually a major issue with these cars, but when corrosion does strike, it will usually be around the rear arches. Rear chassis legs, going over the rear axle assembly and then by the rear dampers, should also be investigated for grot. The drain holes in doors will cause tinworm to blossom around the bottom of these panels if they become blocked. Brake pipes underneath also tend to go a bit crusty, and also scrutinise around the suspension struts. 

 

ENGINE

Several engines were used. The 2.0-litre four-cylinder 16-valve petrol engines are carried over from the original 900 and are very tough and long-lived, assuming proper oil changes and good quality coolant. Every six months or 6000 miles for oil changes is a safe figure, especially on the harder-worked Turbos. The GM 2.5 V6 petrol engine is pretty resilient too, but also needs regular and proper maintenance and isn’t so easy to work on. Look for evidence of the cambelt being changed – the 2.0-litre has a chain. 

 

RUNNING GEAR

All the gearboxes are GM units and not known for going wrong, outside of the usual high mileage maladies of worn synchromesh and noise. If the gearchange stop has problems, it could stop fifth gear being engaged. Automatics are similarly okay, assuming 60,000 oil and filter changes, but steer clear of the Sensonic models – parts for these clutchless manuals are rare and expensive.   

 


INTERIOR

The leatherwork was carried out to a high standard and thus lasts well, but cloth seats can wear on well-used examples, especially around the driver’s bolsters. Try out all the electrics and make sure the Saab Information Display (SID) and ‘Black Panel’ night illumination features on S and SE models work as they should. Also make sure the cold and hot settings in the heater function properly too.  


OUR VERDICT

The main reason for buying one of these, is that they’re currently very cheap and you do get a lot of car for your cash, especially if you find a higher-specced example with all the goodies. Best of all are the very stylish convertibles. Find one with little scuttle shake and you’ll enjoy
al fresco four-seater motoring at budget prices.

SAAB 99 REVIEW

The 99 must be one of the most overlooked of all Saabs.
The Saab 99 project was christened ‘Gudmund’ after the name Swedes give to the day of the year on which it began April the 2nd. Saab had realised that a bigger car was needed than the much praised 96, and though Saab loved two-stroke engines, the company realised that four pots were needed for this new family saloon.
British firm Ricardo & Co Engineering was developing a new unit for Standard-Triumph at the time, and Saab asked to be in on the action. The result was that that S-T would build the engine for Saab under a deal signed in 1965. The eventual 1.7-litre engine would be overhead cam – unusual for a family saloon at the time, and mounted at 45 degrees to fit under Gudmund’s bonnet.
Saab carried out extensive testing on the engine, which some describe as being ‘half a V8’ – indeed, Triumph did intend it to be developed into such a specification at later stage. A much uprated version of the gearbox from the Triumph 1300 was chosen, and the new car was front-wheel-drive.
Project Gudmund, now the Saab 99, was unveiled to an intrigued public in Stockholm on 22 November 1967, though it wouldn’t go on sale to the public until the following autumn. The car was an instant success. A rigid safety cage and servo-assisted dual circuit brakes all round were fitted, and Saab took great pains to keep corrosion at bay.
The 99 made its American debut in 1969, the same year the cars enjoyed a minor interior upgrade and an automatic became available a year later. This had fuel injection, already fitted as an option to some American-spec cars. Four-door versions were made available from 1970.
Some had felt the car was underpowered, so the engine was uprated to 1854cc for 1971 models. These cars also received a revised dashboard, an uprated brake servo and (on most cars), headlamp wash/wipers, together with heated front seats. You also got impact absorbing bumpers, just one of a whole range of safety features that led to several major industry awards.
Just over 35,000 cars were built in 1971, and demand increase yet further year on year. From 1972, a sporty fuel injection EMS (Electronic Manual Special) version became available In 1974 a Combi, or Wagonback with an open rear hatch was unveiled and the following year a 100bhp 2.0-litre engine became standard – these were produced in Sweden, since British production of Saab engines had ended. Two versions were available a 100bhp single carb model; and a fuel injection alternative boasting 118bhp (115bhp for American market cars).
In 1976 came a five-door Combi and luxury GLE trim, with an automatic gearbox, but nothing stirred the soul in the same way as did Saab’s 99 Turbo – this landmark car was unveiled at the 1977 Franfkfurt Motor Show, and could out-accelerate a Jaguar XJ6 3.4 over a standard quarter mile.
From this amazing high, the 99 was to fall quickly from grace with the launch of the new 900 in 1978, though the earlier car remained in production until 1984, and was fitted with the H engine from 1982. However the show was not all over, with a hybrid 90 model (basically a 99 forward of the B-pillar and a 900 at the back) built between 1984-7. No, we’re not sure why, either!
"Saab doesn’t build cars. It builds Saabs." So said one American commentator, and there’s probably no better way of summing up the extraordinary Swedish firm and its pre-GM products. And no Saab is more undeservedly overlooked than the 99. Despite being in production for 16 years, it seems to have fallen between the much coveted 95/96 and the better known 900, though this latter was based on the 99.

SAAB 900 TURBO REVIEW

Turbocharging was once the domain of the fast and exotic, till Saab got to work and offered the Saab 900.

Prior to the 1980s, mainstream British motoring was largely devoid of turbochargers. During the 1960s, Chevrolet and Oldsmobile had experimented with turbocharging in the US, and BMW and Porsche were to go further the following decade by developing two iconic sports cars the 2002 Turbo and 911 Turbo respectively. But neither of these were the sort of vehicles you’d see very often in the real world. Especially not suburban Berkshire.

The car that truly ushered in turbocharging for the common man came from an unexpected source Saab. The small Swedish manufacturer realised that to remain competitive in the vital American market, the performance and economy of its cars had to go up, while emissions had to go down. Without the means to develop a new engine, it instead turned to turbocharging, a field in which it already had some considerable experience thanks to its links with Scania trucks.

The Saab 99 Turbo was unleashed in 1977, but it wasn’t until 1979 that the Swedes got everything completely right with the launch of the 900 Turbo. This reincarnation of the 99 concept – styling was updated, a new interior fitted, and the wheelbase was extended by two inches – managed to pull off the near impossible trick of being reassuringly safe and solid yet hugely exciting at the same time.

Whether by accident or by design – and, being Scandinavian, it was probably very clever design – Saab managed to create one of the most desirable performance cars of the 1980s. What truly made the 900 stand out from the crowd was its blend of performance with practicality, with everything wrapped up in a handsome automotive package that didn’t just appeal to Mr Average Driver but could also be afforded by him as well.

Saab continued to refine the Turbo throughout the 1980s and on into the 1990s. Despite spawning a host of imitators – once the floodgates had been opened, it was inevitable that other manufacturers would come forth with their equivalents – the Trollhattan manufacturer managed to stay on top with the thinking person’s turbo of choice. The first cars offered 145bhp, almost 50 per cent up on the normally-aspirated standard versions. With the advent of the 16-valve model of 1985, that power jumped to 175bhp, while tuners could extract more than 200 if they tried hard. Which had a similar effect to strapping a jet engine to an IKEA wardrobe.

Bearing in mind today’s automotive environment of constant styling nips and tucks, you have to give respect to Saab for ploughing its own distinctive path for such a long time. Like Volkswagen with its Beetle, Citroën with its 2CV, fellow Swede Volvo with its 140/240 range and BMC/BL/Rover with the Mini, Saab hit upon a shape it liked and stuck with it. The 99 model dates back to 1967; for the 900, there was only a minor facelift necessary to take the car right the way through to 1993, a production run of 26 years. Even then, General Motor’s disappointing replacement aped the old design, taking the general look through to 2002.

This makes the 900 an instantly familiar machine, and a reassuring one at that. The typical Swedish approach to engineering is to build with all the structural integrity of a preglobal warming Arctic glacier. That means the 900 exudes quality and robustness, from its stocky black moose-proof bumpers through to those hefty rear haunches concealing the capacious luggage area. On the two-door coupé – the body style that most Turbos came in – the doors seem massive and very heavy, far thicker than many cars of the era. They shut with the resonating thud that inspires total confidence. With no conventional sills to clamber over – they’re inset because the doors plunge down so low to envelop them – this is one of the easier classics to clamber in and out of.

Inside, the spacious – and thankfully heated seats – place you in front of an aircraft-inspired dashboard populated by plenty of chunky switches and circular knobs. The aviation theme is reinforced by the panoramic windscreen. Visibility is excellent, the A-posts hardly intruding into the driver’s usual visual sweep.

Where to put the key? Oh yes, down on the centre console, between the gearstick and handbrake (Saab’s favourite security feature being a transmission lock). Turn it and... To be honest, nothing much actually happens. There’s no meaty roar and great gulp of air as one of the great performance models of its era stirs into life. On the contrary, the polite metallic cough of the electronic ignition is followed by a small rush of revs that instantly drops back into a quiet and civilised idle.

And the 900 stays that way – at least until you can get it somewhere to properly exploit the Garret AiResearch whirligig under the bonnet. Around town and at slow speeds, it feels very normal, almost mundane. It’s responsive enough and an easy car to drive, with very well-balanced power steering that’s suited to what feels like a large, heavy vehicle. But there’s nothing much special going on.

Out in the open, though, the 900 becomes a different beast. At 1800rpm, the turbo cuts in, feeling for all the world like a giant has just put two hands on the Saab’s backside and shoved hard. You’re pushed back in your seat by a surge of acceleration that takes the unwary by surprise. Care is needed on bends, especially in the wet, for torque steer is provoked by the boost cutting in as the wheel is turned. But it’s on A-roads and motorways that the 900 excels. It is one of the great overtakers cruising along, there’s no need to drop a gear to get past a slow-moving obstacle, just floor the accelerator and the turbocharger does the rest. Top gear in a Turbo is like third gear in something else.

This level of performance is thrilling. But what gives it an extra edge is the knowledge that you’re in a car where the handling and safety are more than a match for the potential to get into trouble. The front-wheel drive is predictable and neutral, there’s little roll, the ride is smooth and well-damped, and the brakes are well up to the task of stopping this hefty block of Scandinavian granite. Even now that turbochargers are part of everyday motoring life, you can still see what all the fuss was about.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine: 1985cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power: 175bhp@5500rpm

Torque: 201lb ft@3000rpm

Maximum speed: 126mph

0-60mph: 7.9 sec

Fuel consumption: 23-28mpg

Transmission: FWD, five-spd man/three-spd auto

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body basics

Despite a good reputation, the 900 isn't immune from corrosion. The wheelarches, sills, and door bottoms are all susceptible, and also check around the transmission tunnel where road muck accumulates. Look at the front bulkhead, battery tray, and screen surrounds too, as well as the double-skinned sections of the bonnet. Check around the fuel-filler and the sunroof too, as the latter suffers from blocked drain holes. And bear in mind that bodykits and plastic cladding could be hiding rot, so don't assume things are okay. Quality plastics mean the former can be repaired or there's the secondhand route.

 

Get down under

Don't ignore the underside either, as corrosion can attack the fuel tank and rear crossmember as well as the radiator support beam and the lower corners of the boot floor. If the jacking points are badly affected, rot could have spread into the floor and sills so be extra cautious. Suspension mountings will need careful examination, too, particularly around the front chassis members which act as lower wishbone mounting points. Front suspension turrets, rear damper top mounts and rear trailing arms mounts can become frilly as well.

Engine exam

Conscientious maintenance and regular oil/filter changes will see engines cover big mileages wihtout trouble. Head gasket failure or timing chain issues are uncommon unless the motor is neglected, and while the turbocharger itself rarely gives trouble watch for blue exhaust smoke on accelerations or overrun. Failed ignition modules can be an issue, while parts for the early Bosch K-Jetronic injection are getting scarce. You'll want to ensure the cooling system is healthy, too., so look for evidence of regular collant changes and signs of leaks from the radiator or water pump.

 

Manifold destiny

One problem that does rear its head (which is labour-intensive to fix) is broken exhaust manifold studs so check them carefully. The manifolds can crack, evidenced by a tell-tale ticking, and if the top-end of the engine is noisy bear in mind that valve-clearance adjustment is by fiddly shims on eight-valve engines while 16-valve units employed hydraulic tappets. A complete engine rebuild for a T16S can reach £5000 so be wary of tired or abused units. Lastly, high under-bonnet temperatures lead to brittle wirign and pipework while diagnosing problems with the APC (Automatic Performance Control) boost and knock-control system is best left to a specialist. By the way, a red APC control box indicates the uprated 185bhp engine is fitted.

 

Into gear

Transmissions are a weak point, and while the lower power outputs mean the early four-speeder fares better, the five-speed 'box is another matter. Failure of the pinion bearing and layshaft bearing wear are the main issues, and a repair or rebuild is nigh-on £2000. Beware of a noisy or obstructive unit, or one that jumps out of gear, although the chain-drive to the box should be trouble-free. Ensure that clutch operation is okay as the master cylinder can fail, and listen for the clicking of worn CV joints. the three-speed automatic isn't espceially smooth but is reliable.

 

Anchors away

Aside from general wear and tear, brakes rarely give trouble. Lack of use can lead to sticking calipers, especially at the front where the handbrake operated on pre-1987 cars, and it's worth ensuring that ABS-equipped models aren't showing any warning lights. PAS fluid leaks aren't uncommon so check around the pump and pipework for any moisture.  

 

Cabin clues

Interior quality is sturdy but it's worth checking the fascia for cracks around the speaker grilles - as replacements are rare and expensive. Tweeter speakers that fit are also in demand, and command a premium. A sagging headlining is a common issue and time consuming to sort, while leather-trimmed seat bases in T16 models can suffer from collapsing foam. Using the foam bass from the 9000 model is a potential fix. Ensure that all the electrics and various motors are working although inoperative cruise control isn't unusual and may have been ignored by a previous owner. Dampness in the passenger footwell is a heater matrix or control valve that;s had it. Convertible hood mechanisms aren't known for giving trouble, and replacement hoods can be found for around £1200.

 

Our verdict

The 900 is quirky and distinctive compared with its contemporary rivals, and that makes it a very appealing proposition as a classic tinged with '80s nostalgia. Add the performance credentials of the Turbo, and it's a car that you really can use and enjoy every day. Major restoration work can get pricey, mind, but find a good one and look after it, and it'll last forever.

SAAB 9000 REVIEW

The result of a collaboration with Fiat Group, the Saab 9000 was supposed to have been closely related to the Fiat Croma, Lancia Thema and Alfa Romeo 164. In the event, it shared very little with those cars, other than the Type 4 platform, thanks to multiple disagreements between their respective engineers. While those Italian cousins are now almost extinct, the 9000 survives in relatively high numbers because of a longer production span and much better sales.

VITAL STATISTICS

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK
The Saab 9000 was designed to cope with Sweden's harsh winters, so serious corrosion shouldn't be an issue. You do need to check for poorly repaired bodywork damaged though, so take a close look for evidence of rust or rippling on the nose, rear quarter panels, boot floor and front inner wings. Also check the front wheelarches - if the two-piece protective liners are missing, the paintwork will be damaged and rust is likely to have set in.

Because the 9000 was built to crumple in a crash, to protect its occupants, even a relatively minor impact can lead to structural damage. If there's evidence of ripples in the roof, just walk away - and the same goes if the doors are tight in their apertures. There are also some areas that may have corroded if the car hasn't been cherished. The roof sometimes rusts, especially if there's a factory-fitted sliding sunroof and if there's significant rot here, repairs will cost more than the car's worth.

The lower trailing edge of the front and rear doors can also look scabby, rot caused by the drain holes getting blocked and the doors filling up with water. Repairs are possible, but fitting replacement doors can be easier - although those for facelifted 9000s (from 1992) are subtly different from earlier ones. The reflective 'tailblazer' rear panel loos dated now, but it was of its time. Where earlier 9000s are concerned, these fade and crack with age, and decent replacements are scarce.

ENGINES
There were three petrol engines available: 2.0- or 2.3-litre 16-valve four-cylinder units, or a 3.0-litre V6. There were no diesels and the four-cylinder engines came in normally aspirated or turbocharged guises; the V6 was non-turbo only. The four-cylinder engines have a timing chain; from 1990, the 2.3-litre unit also uses this to drive the balancer shafts. The chain sometimes needs to be replaced at 70,000-100,000 miles, but will last over 200,000 miles with regular oil changes. Expect to pay £900 to have the work done (a DIT kit costs £190), but it will mean removing the engine. Fresh fully-synthetic oil every 6000 miles will reduce the need for chain replacement.

The V6s have a cambelt instead of a chain, which should be replaced every six years or 60,000 miles. Being an interference fit, if the belt breaks, the engine will be wrecked; a specialist should charge £250 or so to replace the cambelt.

Another weakness is head gasket failure on the four-cylinder engines, given away by the unit running on three cylinders when cold - also check for a mayonnaise-like substance on the underside of the oil filter cap. A specialist will charge about £400 to replace the gasket. Don't leave it.

On four-cylinder cars, check that the exhaust manifold studs are intact. They become brittle then snap, and replacing them is a nightmare. Whatever engine is fitted, check the hydraulic engine mounts, which eventually fail.

Cars with traction control can suffer from uneven idling, thanks to failure of the system's ECU. If another is substituted, it needs to be programmed to work, and with both new and used parts in short supply, you can't assume the problem is fixable by anybody other than a well-equipped Saab specialist. A tatty 9000 with a duff traction control ECU may be beyond economical repair. With Turbos and later 2.3i models, misfiring is probably down to the direct ignition (DI) unit failing. The DI unit replaces the distributor. New ones cost £270, with V6s having two. Don't be tempted to fit reconditioned items because they tend to fail within months. Also, replacing the spark plugs on a V6 is a nightmare because of poor access, so if this engine is fitted it may just need some fresh plugs if it's running badly.

TRANSMISSIONS

Generally, 9000 buyers got a choice of five-speed manual or four-speed ZF automatic transmissions. The former is pretty much bomb-proof, although post-1994 cars can give trouble with reverse gear selection. The auto-boxes are also pretty tough, but they wear out after 150,000 miles or so - even if the fluid and filter have been changed religiously every 24,000 miles, as per Saab's schedule.

When a rebuild is due, the ratio changes become snatchy, so take an extended test drive, let everything get warm, and make sure all is smooth. You can buy a decent secondhand auto-box for £350-400 and you can expect to pay the same again to have it fitted. The alternative is to get the gearbox rebuilt; expect to pay £1400 to have the work done by a reputable specalist. If buying an automatic, also check the transmission's oil cooler pipes for corrosion - a new set costs £120.

On manual-box 9000s, make sure the clutch isn't slipping, as replacement is involved and therefore costly - about £600, including the clutch slave cylinder, which is inside the gearbox itself. As a result, if the slave cylinder is leaking, replacement of that on its own isn't straightforward.

Until 1994, the manual's shift quality was pretty rubbish, but later cars are much better. However, by now, gear selection issues are likely because the Metalastik bush in the selector rod or the gearbox mounting bushes will have disintegrated. New ones are available, in rubber or polyurethane - they're cheap, and reasonably easy to fit.

STEERING & SUSPENSION

All 9000s were fitted with power steering, and while the system is reliable, the hoses can leak because of loose clips; you need to check for leaks in the offside front inner wing. The racks themselves seem to last forever though. The suspension is also very reliable. Springs and dampers rarely need replacing but track rod ends and the front suspension balljoints wear eventually. New ones are just £15 apiece, and replacing them is an easy half-hour job.

WHEELS & BRAKES

Some 9000s came on steel wheels, but most survivors have alloys. Standard cars got 15in rims while the Aero got 16in items. All these alloys corrode but they don't go porous, they're freely available (although Carlsson rims are rarer) and they're all interchangeable with each other, too. The brakes are conventional, with all cars getting discs all round and anti-lock technology. Everything is available and problems are rare; it's worth checking for perished hoses, corroded pipes and an ABS light that stays on. In the case of the latter, it's probably down to a faulty wheel sensor. New ones cost £160.

TRIM & ELECTRICS

While top-spec 9000s came with hide trim, cloth is fitted to many examples. Whatever is fitted, it'll be hard-wearing. Indeed, the 9000's cabin is so durable that it's a clocker's dream. Most surviving 9000s are very well equipped, with plenty of gadgets. Items such as electric mirror and seat adjustment motors can go on the blink, but they are usually pretty reliable.

Another potential issue is the heater blower, which sometimes works only on full speed because of its resistor block failing, but replacing this is a half-hour job. The heater matrix can also leak. New ones cost £110 and replacement is fiddly, but it's a DIY proposition. Check that the heated seats work, as the wires in the seat pad break. Again, DIY repairs are possible but fiddly. Finally, ensure the ignition switch works, because the contacts can go on the blink. Replacement is straightforward, with new switches costing £69.
 

OUR VERDICT

Of the Type 4 shared-platform cars, the Saab 9000 was the longest-lived of all, but despite production spanning 13 years, and with 503,000 examples produced, this luxobarge is already in the shadows.

Early 9000s are now rare. Most of the cars available are from the last three years of production, which means you'll probably end up with a turbocharged model.

Other rarities include saloons and V6s, but the hatch offers better practicality and the four-pot engines have plenty of muscle - especially the turbocharged 2.3-litre unit.

There are still low-mileage truly cherished cars about, and if you don't mind spending £5000 you could secure a really nice Aero or Carlsson - one of the most usable Q-cars ever created. 

SAAB 96 REVIEW

The 96 was the car that brought international success to Saab, both in sales and on rally circuits.

Launched in 1960 and remaining in production all the way through to 1980, the 96 was the car that threw the international spotlight on Saab as one of Europe’s quirkier but quality manufacturers

The individualistic teardrop shape was born out of the marque’s aviation origins and clearly related to the Ursaab of 1947. Although there were tweaks in the styling during the car’s life, the fundamental appearance stayed mostly the same for its 20-year manufacturing run. 

In 1965, the ‘bull nose’ front was lengthened ready for a new engine. The initial three-cylinder two-stroke engine continued to be used until 1967, after which Ford’s V4 unit from the Taunus was adopted. Throw in front-wheel drive and freewheel transmission and these are cars that intrigue with their mechanical novelty, impress with their build quality and surprise with their overall ability. 

VITAL STATISTICS

SAAB 96 V4

 

Engine                                    1498cc/V4/OHV

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  65bhp@4700rpm

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 85lb ft@2500rpm

 

Top speed                                93mph

 

0-60mph                                  16.5sec

  

Consumption                            29.4mpg

 

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Likely corrosion points are the front inner wings close to the suspension mounts and outer ones around the indicators. Rust can break out around the windscreen and will spread to the bulkhead due to blocked drain holes. Sills can also rot, along with doors if their drain holes get blocked. At the rear, inner rear wheelarches corrode, as does the boot floor, especially at the point where the mudflaps attach on the outside. Suspension mountings should also be checked; lift the back seat, and also check the inner back wings. Later cars have stoneguards fitted, which probably do more harm than good as they can harbour corrosion. 

 

ENGINE

Two-stroke engines have just seven moving parts. However, they can rust internally if laid up, as oil is only present if the engine is running. Listen for rumbles from the main bearings and small end noise. V4 engines are resilient, but the fibre balance shaft gear can strip itself from 50,000 miles upwards. See if it has been replaced; metal ones are available but they increase noise levels. Try to pull the fanbelt pulley up and down – if there’s play, it suggests the balancer shaft bearings are worn, also indicated by the oil lamp flickering at idle. The standard Ford Autolite carburettors have a bad reputation; sensible owners fit a single-choke Weber. 


RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were three-speed up to 1966 and four-speed thereafter. They’re a weak point and oil should have been changed every 6000 miles. The first sign of problems is usually when the freewheel stops working – you’ll get a whirring noise and a loss of power. Post-1974 V4s had tougher gearboxes and selection problems are usually down to adjustment in the steering column or linkage. Clutch judder can strike the V4 models.

With regards to suspension, try to get underneath and check the lower damper mountings; they can come adrift from the wishbones. Front suspension bushes wear with age. Check them by eye and also see if the steering is vague during a test drive. 

You’ll find drum brakes on the ‘normal’ two-stroke cars, and front discs on Sports and V4s. They rarely give trouble but handbrakes do, as the operating arms in the hubs wear out. They need to be reshaped and rewelded to be effective again.

 


INTERIOR

Interior trim is hard to source, so ensure what’s there is reasonable. Rear seat tops suffer from sun damage and the parcel shelf tends to bow in the middle. Check the front and rear screen seals – they’re near-impossible to find for two-stroke cars and V4 variants are scarce, too. Ignition locks should be lubricated, otherwise they get gunged up and, because they lock the transmission, the car will be immobilised. Feel how stiff things are when starting. 

With electrics, most trouble is down to damp or corrosion issues in the fusebox, under the bonnet on the bulkhead. If the headlamps are playing up, it’s probably the relay in the same area.


OUR VERDICT

Because they’re different and quite eccentric, as well as being rugged. While the two-stroke cars are hard to find, they’re definitely the quirkiest and purest of the bunch. V4 cars are more common and more practical in terms of performance, spares availability and general use. Prices are still quite reasonable given the scarcity of the cars these days. 

A 96 is a machine you’ll never get bored of driving – or even just looking at and admiring that very distinctive shape.  

SAAB 900 REVIEW

Saabs have always been just a little different from the mainstream. The 900 is a perfect example of that and is often seen as the thinking man’s alternative to other family and middle-ranking executive models. 

 There’s a real solidity to the way the 900 goes about its business, with every control having a meaty directness to its operation. There’s no slack or slop here, just positive responses that inspire confidence whatever the road or weather conditions, and as a classic that makes for an ideal everyday driver. 

The 900 corners with little body roll and resists understeer well, and with good bump absorption long journeys are relaxing and stress-free. Steering and braking are very assured too. It’s a great motorway mile-muncher. 

Solid construction does add weight, which blunts things a little, but a 900 feels acceptably brisk and is rarely found wanting in the cut and thrust of everyday motoring. And if you want extra go, the addictive turbocharged shove of the 175bhp Turbo 16S is on hand to provide the thrills. That feeling of solidity is found in the cabin too, where you’ll enjoy first-rate comfort and ergonomics, even if the aircraft-related comparisons that were so beloved of the advertisers are a little wide of the mark in reality. 

The view out of the curved slot-like windscreen might seem unusual at first but you soon come to appreciate the clear dashboard layout and chunky, well-placed controls. Factor-in impressive levels of refinement – engine, road, and wind noise are commendably low – and if you’re faced with a long journey after a tough day at the office, the 900 will soon soothe-away the stresses. 

It’s easy to see why so many executives were attracted by the quirky Swede back in the day, and it makes just as much sense today. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Saab 900 Turbo 16S

 

Engine                                    1985cc/4-cylinder/OHC

 

Power (bhp@rpm)                  175bhp@5500rpm

 

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 201lb ft@3000 

 

Top speed                                126mph

 

0-60mph                                  7.5sec  

 

Consumption                           27mpg

 

Gearbox                                   5-speed man/3-speed auto

 


 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The 900 resists corrosion well, but it isn’t completely immune so you’ll need to check a few areas. One place is around the transmission tunnel which accumulates road muck, but rust also affects the wheel arches, sills, and the double-skinned sections of the bonnet. The front bulkhead and valance can go too and check the area around the fuel filler cap, the front and rear screen surrounds, and the bottoms of the doors.

It’s worth taking a look underneath, as the fuel tank and rear crossmember are susceptible to rotting out, while the jacking points and the corners of the boot floor are other weak spots. Check the support beam for the radiator along with the battery tray, and ensure that there’s nothing nasty lurking behind the bodykit on Turbo 16S models.

 

ENGINE

Regular oil changes are the key to engine longevity, with all units capable of big mileages before a re-build is required. Timing chains should last in excess of 100,000 miles and they can be replaced with the engine in situ. Tappets on 8-valve models are adjusted by shims and it’s a fiddly job, while 16-valvers use hydraulic items. Watch for corroded and leaking radiators, leaky water pumps, and for signs of oil around the bulkhead which is usually caused by leaks from the rear crankshaft seal or oil pump cover – fortunately, both can be renewed with the engine in place.   

 

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Turbo models are just as reliable as their normally-aspirated brethren with conscientious maintenance, although excessive blue smoke from the exhaust should ring alarm bells. High under-bonnet temperatures can lead to brittle pipework so examine it carefully, and listen for the ticking that indicates a cracked exhaust manifold.   

A 900 that suffers from difficulty engaging gears, jumps out of gear, or whines excessively, has succumbed to a common problem. Some cover many miles without issue but it is a known weakness, often caused by failure of the pinion bearing that was beefed-up – not entirely successfully – on later models. The chain drive from engine to gearbox rarely gives trouble though. Turbo power can exacerbate gearbox issues, so be extra vigilant on these, and check for clutch slippage as well. Clutch master cylinders are a weak point on most models, and you should also listen-out for clicking CV joints. The three-speed automatic is reasonably robust, albeit not the smoothest unit.

 

BRAKES

Wear and tear aside, the suspension is largely trouble-free although you do need to check for corrosion around the mounting points. Problem areas are the lower front suspension turrets, rear damper top mounts, and the mounting points for the rear trailing arms. The handbrake operated on the front wheels on pre-1987 models, so watch for sticking calipers. Leaks from the power steering hydraulics or a tired rack are the extent of any steering issues. 


INTERIOR

The solid interior is a real plus point, so serious wear and tear will be obvious. Sagging headlining is common and is fiddly to sort, and check the dashboard for cracks around the speaker grilles. A damp passenger footwell is a sign that the heater matrix or control valve has had it. Ensure the motors for central locking, sunroof, and windows still work. 

OUR VERDICT

Practical, refreshingly different, and offering solid build and impressive durability, the 900 gets our vote. It’s a classic you can use every day whatever the road and weather conditions. There are plenty to choose from, so avoid neglected examples and you’ll enjoy some Swedish charm.