STANDARD VANGUARD REVIEW

Standard’s Vanguard started life in 1947 as a patriotically titled, but firmly American-inspired fastback curio for the family man. Sharing a basic engine with the Triumph TR2, performance was quite brisk and there was comfortable seating for six adults. The Phase II of 1952 was toned down a little – with a more, ahem, standard boot and rear wing set-up.

But it was the leap to unitary construction in 1955 that brought Standard up to date, reacting to the unitary machines of industry giants Ford, Morris and Austin. As it still used a basic TR engine, performance was still strong form the lusty 2088cc engine. The gearbox offered three ratios ‘on-the-tree’ with optional overdrive from 1957 on second and top. This operated by a flick-switch mounted atop a chunky steering column stalk.

In 1958, Vignale and Michelotti combined efforts for the Vignale Vanguard, which was a subtle but effective facelift, with deeper glass and a bit more class. In 1960, the Vanguard Luxury Six took over, now fitted with the 1998cc, six-cylinder engine that would go on to good effect in the Triumph 2000, which ultimately replaced this series of cars. Production of the Vanguard and Ensign ended in 1963.

What’s out there?

Survivors are rare but there is a very enthusiastic following for these cars, with a Standard Motor Club and then one specifically for the Phase 3 and later models covered here. For a long time, the Vanguard has been a bit of a forgotten classic, but thankfully, people are starting to wake up to their ample charms. 

Rarest of the lot is the Sportsman. Only 901 were built – spot one by its Triumph-esque grille (it was originally meant to be a Triumph model) and twin SU carbs.

Ensigns are worth seeking out, if only for the curious model line up. Effectively a stripped-out Vanguard, with a floor gearchange, the later Deluxe actually had a 2138cc engine larger than that of any Vanguard!
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Vanguard Phase III
Engine    2088cc/4-cyl/OHV
Power    68bhp@4200rpm
Torque    108lb ft@2000rpm
Top Speed    80mph
0-60mph    22sec
Fuel consumption    30mpg
Gearbox    3-speed MOD
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

No surprise that corrosion is the enemy and while the Vanguard is built out of some pretty sturdy steel, you still need to check over a potential purchase very carefully. Sills are obviously a key area to check, and bodges can be skilfully hidden but also check the floors inside and out. Windscreen seals can leak, causing floor rot but also leading to corrosion starting in the scuttle area. This area can also suffer where it meets the front wings. The bulkhead can corrode around the heater unit, due to blocked drain holes.
Wings can rust and get a torch to check the hidden depths where road muck can get thrown. Inner wings can corrode too, so with the bonnet open, check around the bonnet hinges.

Underneath, watch out where the gearbox crossmember meets the sills and then turn your attention to the spring hangers at the rear. Valances can suffer, especially where the front one meets the front panel.

Keep an eye open for missing trim. Finding replacements will be nigh on impossible – something to bear in mind if buying a project. At least Ensigns didn’t have much of the shiny stuff. Conversely, the later Vignale and Six have a fair ol’ dose of the stuff, and Mazak parts can suffer pitting.

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION

The 2088cc four-cylinder engine is most common, and it’s a hardy power unit. An engine that’s been standing can be a concern as the wet liners can rust through and cause the pistons to stick. However, as long as there are no knocks of grumbles, the engine is probably fine.
The six-cylinder engine went on to a long life under the bonnet of many a Triumph, and if anything, it’s an engine that was better in its early form. However, head bolts can over-stretch meaning new ones must be used if the head comes off. Check that this has happened and watch out for signs of oil and water mixing. 

The biggest issue with gearboxes is worn column-change linkages, making gears very hard to find. All gearboxes should be fairly quiet, but worn bearings will make quite a noise to alert you to their unhappiness. Overdrives can fail due to broken wiring, or because the oil level is too low.

STEERING, SUSPENSION AND BRAKES

The steering isn’t the most accurate but a worn steering box will make things very loose on the road. Replacements are hard to find so if the play can’t be adjusted out, you could be in trouble. There’s not too much to worry about suspension wise, though knocks and thumps need investigating – probably worn bushes by now. Likewise with the brakes, though wheel cylinders and master cylinders can fail, resulting in either really poor braking, or pulling to one side. The Six had disc front brakes from 1961, the Ensign optional from 1962.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

Finding trim for the inside is just as hard as finding exterior bits, so completeness is important. Seat material is hard wearing vinyl, but it can still get very shabby with age, and won’t be cheap to sort out. Some cars had optional leather, which pushes the retrim costs up further. Electrics are pretty simple, so make sure everything works. Failures are usually just dirty connections or poor earths.
 

VERDICT

If you’re after adrenalin, then the Vanguard won’t deliver, but if you’re after an alternative family classic, then this could be right up your street. The lusty engines offer surprising performance and easy motorway cruising, especially if you have one with overdrive. They’re hardy and easy to look after on a DIY basis, making them an unusual, but also inspired choice.

SUBARU IMPREZA REVIEW

In the Nineties Ford shied away from big horsepower motors. The Escort RS Cosworth was the last of an era, and under the Karmann bodywork it was a shortened Sapphire Cosworth anyway. The tide was turning, and it was from the East that a new generation would get their turbocharged kicks.  

Subaru has already tasted rallying success with Colin McRae at the wheel in the British Rally Championship in Subaru Legacy. But it was with the Impreza that the Scot – and Subaru – made their way firmly into the affections of rallying-obsessed youth.

The Impreza WRX was known as the Impreza Turbo 2000 in the UK. It first appeared in 1992, offering 208bhp. This meant 0-60mph in less than six seconds and a top speed of 137mph.  In 1994 Prodrive modified 25 cars with bodywork mods, suspension tweaks and interior trim upgrades.

A year later, to commemorate Colin McRae’s World Rally Championship victory, Prodrive released the Series McRae. This had 240bhp, uprated springs, dampers and anti-roll bars and trim tweaks. This meant better mid-range performance and more incisive handling.

In 1997, 200 ‘Catalunya’ editions were built to celebrate Subaru’s Manufacturer’s Championship win in the WRC; this was more a cosmetic upgrade than anything more serious. It was a trick repeated with the Terzo edition in 1998, celebrating the team’s third championship win – 333 were built.  During this time Prodrive offered a conversion kit – unsurprisingly called the Prodrive WR Sport Conversion – which provided 240bhp and 0-60mph in 5.6 seconds. Top speed was 141mph, and the suspension had been tweaked too.

Things got more serious with 1998’s 22B. Built to celebrate 40 years of Subaru, just 16 were intended for the UK market. However, many have been imported privately. Resolutely two-door only and sporting a pumped-up bodykit and truly epic rear wing, it needed a powerplant to match. It came in the form of a 2.2-litre, 276bhp engine that could fling you and your Subaru-branded teamwear to 60mph in 4.7 seconds. That low figure led some to question whether that 276bhp was truly accurate; some suggested anything up to 380bhp but Car & Driver reckoned it was closer to 300bhp. To compensate for all this, there was a twin-plate clutch, forged aluminum lower control arms, Eibach springs, Bilstein dampers and a carbon fibre strut brace. It remains the most prized version of the Impreza.

The RB5 of 1999 was introduced to celebrate Richard Burns’ arrival at the Prodrive office; 444 were built. The optional Prodrive Performance Pack offered 237bhp and tuned suspension. With the options ticked, the RB5 was widely heralded by journalists as the finest of all the UK special editions. It hit 60mph in 5.2 seconds and carried on all the way to 145mph.

In 2000 Subaru released the P1. Based on the two-door coupe bodyshell, 1000 were built. It developed 276bhp, which you could deliver through suitably loud large-bore exhaust for a few extra coins. Bigger brakes were also optional. The gear ratios, ECU and interior were changed, and perhaps incongruously for such a hardcore machine, you could specify leather chairs. This all adds up to a 155mph top whack, 0-60mph in 4.6 seconds and, one would imagine, a keen eye for GATSO speed cameras.

The P1 was made to counter the rise of ‘grey’ imports. These cars were Japanese-market cars that were being sold in the UK at a price that undercut official UK cars. Therefore it’s entirely likely you’ll come across the many, many Japanese-market special editions. It is, therefore, wise to tread carefully; the specifications vary widely and mainly involve an endlessly confusing arrangement of letters and numbers. On the plus side the Japanese cars can have anything up to 300bhp. It’s a list far too long to go into here, but the dedicated and enthusiastic owners’ club will be able to assist.

The Impreza was always inexpensive for the performance it provided. They are tough, robust cars that can take punishment – Colin McRae did win the WRC in one, after all – but skipped maintenance, crash damage and dubious modifications are all in the mix should you choose to step into Scooby land. The very best cars will be cherished, however, and are more than worth the premium over more tired examples.

But buy carefully and you have one of the iconic cars of the Nineties at your fingertips, and your favourite road will never feel the same again.

VITAL STATISTICS

Subaru Impreza Turbo

Engine                                      1994cc/4-cyl                 

Power (bhp@rpm)                     208@5600

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    201@4800

Top speed                                143mph

0-60mph                                   5.5sec

Consumption                            27mpg

Gearbox                                   5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Rust can break out in the rear wheelarches, subframes and steering arms; there was a recall for the latter problem. Everything is available to effect repairs, with glassfibre rear wings often fitted to sort out the frilly wheelarches. These aren’t seen as a bodge either, as they permanently eradicate corrosion.

Crashed cars are common, so look for poor repairs; an HPI check (www.hpicheck.com) is worthwhile. The front wings are bolted on, so see if the paint around their retaining bolts is intact. Also see if the rivets that hold the slam panel to the inner wing have been disturbed; if they have, the car has seen some fresh panelwork. Beware of aftermarket sunroofs; factory-fit items are rare, so some owners fit their own. Usually badly.

Engine

The boxer engine isn’t stressed in standard form, so it’ll soldier on reliably for high mileages. But it needs a service every 7500 miles (and a new cam belt every 45,000) or it’ll wear quickly. Hard-driven Imprezas need an oil change every 3000-5000 miles, but cars rarely driven in anger can almost double these figures, as long as a top-notch lubricant is used. The engine should have been fed a diet of 99 octane fuel such as Shell V-Power. Anything less isn’t good enough and an octane booster will cause more problems than it solves. Even 97 octane super-unleaded will damage the engine as it’ll just pink, leading to long-term damage.

Turbochargers are strong but not infallible, so look for blue exhaust smoke as the engine idles. This belies worn turbocharger seals; £150 sorts things. More of an issue is tired big-end bearings, so ensure the engine is cold when you first start it up. Bottom-end rattling betrays the fact that a full rebuild is needed; expect to pay £3000. Few used engines are healthy, so buy with extreme care. If an aftermarket exhaust has been fitted, check it fits properly and that it’s not unreasonably loud. Some bigger-bore systems are insanely noisy and really uncomfortable on a long journey.

Transmission

Transmissions are strong but an abused car may have a slipping clutch or notchy gearbox. Oil leaks from a worn crankshaft seal can also lead to clutch slip, but repairs are straightforward, with new clutch kits costing £210, or £480 fitted. Automatic transmissions were available overseas, but not in the UK. All UK Turbos got a five-speed manual ‘box, which is tough but the cogs can get damaged through abuse, while wear can be accelerated through the fitment of a short-shift. Both will mean a full rebuild is needed, at around £1000.

Suspension

The suspension is durable, but the anti-roll bar bushes wear out, given away by road noise through the bodyshell. It’s worth replacing the bushes with polyurethane items at £60 per pair, with two needed at each end of the car. Swapping the standard 20mm anti-roll bar for a 22mm item is worthwhile as it reduces understeer and costs just £90. Also check for worn bushes and drop links. For the sake of durability, upgrade to polyurethane items in the case of the former and swap the plastic drop-links for steel items at £39 per pair (two are fitted at each end of the car).

Steering

Change the rubber steering rack mounting bushes for polyurethane items to improve steering precision; they’re £14 each and take an hour to swap over. If the tyres have worn unevenly it’s probably because the wheels have been kerbed. If you’re lucky it may be just misaligned tracking, but the whole of the suspension may be out of kilter.

Electrics

An untouched electrical system will be reliable, but many looms have been butchered. So look out for aftermarket stereo or security systems or extra lighting and inspect any wiring you can see (under the dash and in the engine bay). If there are nasties here, there’s a good chance it’ll be worse out of sight.

OUR VERDICT

You’ll struggle to find a completely original-spec Turbo, but many upgrades make the car more usable – be wary of engine modifications that compromise reliability though. Also look out for abused cars that have been driven mercilessly on one track day after another; the Turbo is great on a circuit, but such conditions are notoriously harsh for any car.

SUBARU IMPREZA STI WRX MODEL 22B REVIEW

Subaru Impreza STI WRX Model 22B An official Subaru replica of Colin McRae's 555 WRC 98 rally car with high-rise adjustable spoiler and huge wheel arches, the 22B's turbocharged flat-four is based on that of the WRX. Engine capacity increased from 1,994cc to 2,212cc, torque peaking at a more user-friendly 3,200 rpm instead of 4,000 rpm, with a wider band available to do business from 2,800-5,400 rpm via a stronger twin-plate ceramic/metal clutch. Front track is 20mm wider, the rear by 40mm, with Bilstein dampers, Eibach springs and rose joints. A quicker-ratio steering rack and BBS 17'' wheels go with 235/40 Pirelli P Zeros, with water-spray cooling for the intercooler and a higher spec short-ratio gearbox. A massive 350bhp is on tap, with 0-60mph estimated at under 3-seconds, and 100mph coming up in about 10 seconds, while the braking effect is compared to 'trying to drive into Superman's outstretched hand...' The STI model is the work of Subaru's official STI department, or Subaru Technica International, with a limited production of just 399.

SUNBEAM ALPINE REVIEW

Try to think of an affordable two-seater roadster from the Sixties and you’ll invariably end up with images of an octagon-badged drop-top in your mind. But look beyond the obvious and there’s an even more affordable mass-market convertible that for some reason has always been overlooked – the Sunbeam Alpine series I-V.

First on sale in July 1959, the Series I Alpine was no road-rocket with just 78bhp on offer from its 1494cc four-cylinder powerplant. Based on nothing more sexy than a Hillman Husky floorpan, the Alpine’s engine was much the same as the ones found nestling under the bonnet of a Rapier, but with a four-branch manifold and an alloy cylinder head. The car’s top speed was just 101mph, which was as fast as any production Alpine ever got, although at least it’s easy to tune them if performance is your priority. The transmission was also the same as that found in the Rapier, but with closer gear ratios and the option of a Laycock overdrive.

By October 1960, after 11,904 Series Is had been built, it was time for the next step. With a larger, 80bhp 1592cc engine, the Series II kept the fins and detachable aluminium hard-top of its predecessor but the seating was made more comfortable. By the time it gave way to the Series III in March 1963, 19,956 had rolled off the production lines.

The third-generation Alpine brought with it a new option – the GT. The special thing about the GT – which actually isn’t that special at all – was the lack of a folding hood to keep weight and costs down, although the interior was much nicer with wood trim for the dash and a wood-rim steering wheel. The GT is now the least sought after Alpine unless it’s been converted to have a folding roof – in which case it’s one of the most desirable thanks to the wooden bits inside. The optional detachable hard top on the Series III onwards was steel instead of aluminium (and was more angular) and twin fuel tanks replaced the single item fitted to earlier cars, which meant the boot space was far more usable as there was much more of it. Just 5863 Series IIIs were made, making it the rarest Alpine by quite a margin (except for the Harrington fixed-roof Alpines), and one of the most desirable too as it’s the most refined of the big-finned models.

When the Series IV was launched in January 1964 it had almost lost its tailfins and the grille had become a single chrome bar in place of the previous four-bar unit. Before production gave way to the final version of the Alpine, the Series V, in September 1965, 12,406 Series IVs had been built. With a five-bearing engine for the first time, the Series V sported a 1724cc engine and a pair of Stromberg carbs to give 92bhp – still only enough to push it to 100mph. By the time the Alpine went out of production in January 1968 a total of 19,122 Series Vs had been built.

By the time the Alpine bit the dust, the rather fruitier Tiger, which had promised great things, had gone the same way. Spurred on by the instant success of AC’s Ace (which became a Cobra), Rootes tried the same formula with the Alpine by slotting a 4261cc Ford V8 in the engine bay while the export- only Series II got a 4727cc V8. The car was assembled at Jensen’s West Bromwich plant and styling changes over the Alpine were restricted to a chrome strip along the car’s flanks, different wheel trims and a pair of exhausts instead of just the one. A tie-up with Chrysler in June 1964, just as the project was getting going, didn’t help things and by the middle of 1967 the whole episode was history after 6495 Series I cars and 571 Series IIs had been built – including just 12 righthand-drive cars.

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Until a decade or so ago there was a surprisingly large number of Alpines being used every day. But despite the car’s practicality, such use will take its toll on the bodyshell, which doesn’t soldier on like the mechanicals can. That means repairs on a shoestring are commonplace so you’ve got to have your wits about you if you’re not to be done up like a kipper. It’s easy to miss the signs of a bodged restoration and sometimes even a trained eye can skip over things.

The lack of factory-applied rust protection invites rust, although the monocoque is very strong as long as the tin worm hasn’t got to it. The most important place to check, and the first place that’s likely to rot, is along the length of the sills. These are essential to the car’s strength, so make sure that all three layers of the sill are present. Without taking the car to pieces that’s not possible, so if

work has been done make sure you look at photographic evidence. Unrestored cars in good condition are pretty much extinct – if the vendor claims the car you’re looking at is original it’s wise to check that the sills are curved to match the convex profile of the door. Cheap replacement panels are straight and won’t look quite right, and once water has got into the leading edge of the sills it works its way to the back wreaking havoc along the way. The problem starts when the caulk seal that should bridge the gap between the front wing and the inner wheelarch drops out, allowing the water in. Another thing to check is that there’s a step in the splash panel at the back of the front inner wheelarch. If the panel’s smooth it’s just a cover panel that’s almost certainly masking something nasty.

Unless the car has been properly restored you can bank on having to have the sills rebuilt on pretty much any car you look at – expect to pay £800 to have each side fixed, including blending the paint in. If possible, to check the integrity of the sills jack the car up both front and rear to see if the rear door gap closes up – if you can no longer open the door you know the structure of the car has been weakened. But you can expect to see 1-2mm movement of the door in its aperture and you have to make sure that the jacking points themselves aren’t just a memory.

You’ll probably find rust around the headlamps, along the base of the windscreen and at the back of the engine bay under the master cylinders, so lift the bonnet (which rarely rots) and inspect closely. The doors aren’t especially rot-prone, but the hinges wear allowing the door to drop. The front edge and the underside are the most likely places that rot will be lurking, and if the door has been reskinned make sure the rubber seal is there and that the profile of the whole door is correct.

Check the back of the car, particularly the base of the wings which should have a drain hole visible. If it’s not there, it’s likely there have been some poor repairs made at some point and while you’re sniffing around this area analyse the inner rear wheelarches. Open the boot to inspect the rear corners of the boot floor and while you’re there make sure the trailing edge of the bootlid isn’t riddled with rot.

Floorpans can corrode badly, so make sure you lift the mats or carpets in the front footwells to see what state the leading edges are in. The area around the accelerator is especially rot-prone and try rocking the seats – they may be mounted on crumbling metal, just like the handbrake which is mounted to the right of the driver’s seat. While you’re inside the car take a look at the mountings for the rear spring hangers. Located behind the front seats on an angled panel, signs of rust may be only the start of the story. The spring hangers are a real pain to repair properly and you won’t want to buy a car on which they’re rotten, but just because the floor above them has rotted it doesn’t mean the hangers themselves need any work. But make sure you check the rear spring hangers from underneath anyway, and while you’re there also examine the jacking points closely because they may have dissolved.

The final rot-spot to check is the rear corners of the hardtop, if it’s one of the steel items fitted to Series III cars onwards. The earlier aluminium roofs don’t give problems, but the steel ones iniably rot and the perspex windows craze.

ENGINES

The powerplants fitted to Rootes cars are generally famed for their durability thanks to straightforward engineering, although none of them turns the Alpine into a fast car. Tweaked versions of engines found in Rootes’ contemporary saloons – and fitted to the Alpine – shouldn’t give many problems, but the most likely one is overheating due to previous neglect. The alloy cylinder heads are prone to warping if they haven’t been torqued down properly after replacement, and if the anti-freeze level has been allowed to drop in the coolant there’s probably some corrosion within the system. If you’re tempted by a Tiger, be doubly sure that all’s in order as cooling is marginal on these V8 beasts.

One of the common bodges which afflicts Alpines is that of fitting an engine from a Minx or Sceptre and passing it off as a genuine Alpine unit. Outwardly there’s little difference but put your foot down and there’s a noticeable lack of power.

Another potential problem is that of a cracked block due to a fault line that’s given way along the water jacket, although this is only really an issue if the coolant within the engine has been allowed to freeze. Spotting whether or not the block has cracked isn’t necessarily that easy (water seepage is the most likely symptom), but repairing such damage is economically feasible.

Oil leaks are also common as the engines use a scroll-type oil seal. That also means that the crank pulleys wear and eventually you’ll need a new one, at £80 plus fitting.

Although Alpine engines are inherently durable, they’re sometimes thrashed to get the most out of them. Any of the engines fitted to the Alpine should take 130,000 miles quite happily, but they don’t like neglect very much. The most likely cause of problems with the 1725 engine fitted to the Series V is using an incorrect procedure for changing the oil and filter. Whatever you do, don’t change the oil while hot or remove the oil filter when the sump is empty as this will allow the remote oil pump to drain, leading to seized big end bearings.

When you test drive the car take a look at the oil pressure when it’s up to temperature. At least 15psi should be showing at idle on a three-bearing engine (pre-Series V cars), with 50-55psi showing over 2000rpm. The 1725 engine will give 25psi at idle quite happily, with 45psi or more showing at 2000rpm.

TRANSMISSION

From the outset overdrive was available on the Alpine, but it wasn’t always fitted. That’s a shame because cars without it aren’t nearly as nice to use and finding a unit to retro fit isn’t that easy as overdrive units are getting increasingly scarce. In fact they’re so hard to find that for a reconditioned overdrive gearbox you can now expect to pay up to £500, and you can’t beat the system by trying to use a Hunter unit as it won’t fit.

The four-speed manual gearbox fitted to all Alpines is nice enough to use, but it wasn’t until the Series IV that syncromesh was fitted to all gears. Earlier cars did without first-gear syncro but if you don’t like swapping gears at all you could always buy an auto Alpine – as long as you’re happy with a series IV. Not fitted to any of the other derivatives, the Borg-Warner type 35 autobox is a reliable unit that was fitted to all sorts of classics throughout the Sixties.

Autos are traditionally frowned upon by ‘those who know’ but the self-shifting ’box in the Alpine isn’t a bad unit at all. The problem is that only 87 were made and some of those have been converted to manual transmission. If you wanted to turn a manual into an auto you can do it, as long as you can track down the relevant parts from a suitable Rootes Group car (such as a Sceptre or Minx).

STEERING & SUSPENSION

All Alpines were fitted with the same basic semi-trailing wishbone suspension layout, but there were detail changes along the way. Series I-III cars were fitted with a front suspension that used a lower trunnion and kingpin set-up which needs regular greasing to stay sharp. Many cars don’t get the regular TLC they need, leading to sloppy handling through worn or seized kingpins – and finding new bits for the front suspension of a Series I-III car isn’t easy.

Series IV and V cars used Metalastik bushes instead, to reduce maintenance and give a more comfortable ride. And although you don’t have to grease kingpins frequently, the chances are that the bushes will need replacing by now, especially as they’re probably soaked in engine oil. Polyurethane items are available, at £10 each for the lower units and £7 for the upper ones.

At the rear, lever arm dampers were replaced by telescopic items from the introduction of the Series III. But apart from checking for the usual leaks there are no inherent problems with either type of suspension.

The steering boxes fitted throughout production have a habit of leaking, while the idler assembly also likes to wear or seize. But everything is available to keep the steering sharp, although replacing a steering box isn’t the easiest task to perform unless you know what you’re doing.

WHEELS & BRAKES

Wire wheels are very popular with Alpine owners, especially if the car doesn’t get used very much. As a result you have to check the wheels carefully, as broken spokes and worn splines are almost a given if the car has seen a lot of use.

There aren’t any problems associated with the braking system on the Alpine, although the self-adjusting rear brakes that were initially fitted to the Series V didn’t last long – by November 1967 they reverted to the manually adjustable system fitted to Series I-IV cars.

TRIM

Just about everything is available either new or reconditioned, although much of the interior trim has been remanufactured rather than being new-old-stock. Rubber mats are no longer available, but most people want carpet sets anyway and even the exterior

trim is available (except for bumpers), having been reproduced.

ELECTRICS

From September 1965 an alternator was fitted in place of a dynamo and these fed a regulator and warning lamp relay on the inner wing. If the unit is overcharging these ancilliaries will get fried (and cost you £50 to replace) so it’s worth checking the alternator’s output to make sure it’s working correctly.

OUR VERDICT

If you're looking for a car to use regularly you’re better off with a Series V as its larger five-bearing engine makes the car more usable. But if you want an Alpine with fins your best bet is to look for a Series III car as it has a much larger boot and more comfortable seats.

Probably the nicest Alpine is one that wasn’t made officially, which is the GT (complete with wood trim) but with a soft-top and Series V engine and suspension.

None of the cars are very quick, but if you want some serious power in an Alpine shell you could always look at buying a Tiger. If there isn’t enough power there you’re probably beyond help.

Sunbeam Alpine

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - SUBARU SVX

Do you really remember the Subaru SVX? Or, indeed, remember the last time you saw one on the road? In terms of sheer hen’s teeth rarity, it’s second only to the even more idiosyncratic squareedged XT that preceded it.
Launched in the early 1990s as a viable, if rather off-the-wall alternative to the likes of the Mitsubishi 3000GT, Mazda RX-7 and Toyota Supra, its optimistically lofty price actually brought it perilously close to Porsche 968 territory, which is almost certainly one of the reasons why it turned out to be such a short-lived sales flop.
Viewed as a rare classic, though…well, that’s another story altogether.
  

VITAL STATISTICS

SUBARU SVX

Engine                                    3319cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  226bhp@5600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 228lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed                                144mph

0-60mph                                  8.7sec

Consumption                           24mpg

Gearbox                                   Automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Relative obscurity aside, this is still a Subaru, so corrosion is only really going to be an issue on cars that have been neglected by former owners, or have suffered heavy accident damage that has subsequently been repaired badly. The biggest issue with these cars, in fact, concerns replacement of damaged body panels and trim, which will almost certainly require a degree of internet surfing to locate, especially if it’s those remarkable door windows you’re trying to source. Engine
A Subaru just wouldn’t be a Subaru without the offbeat, highly evocative warble of a horizontally-opposed (or ‘boxer’) engine under the bonnet, and the SVX is no exception.
The 3.3-litre, 24-valve, flat-six the SVX employed from cradle to grave is unstressed and largely unburstable, and while Subaru does recommend replacing the cambelt every 60,000 miles, the engine is a non-interference type, meaning that a snapped cambelt will simply cause the engine to stop, rather than inflicting potentially terminal damage on valves and pistons.
Elsewhere, owners have been know to report an annoying buzzing sound under hard acceleration that, while irksome, is usually nothing more than a loose exhaust heat shield. Less commonly (and rather more expensive to rectify), however, it can also be symptomatic of a failed secondary catalyst.

ENGINE

A Subaru just wouldn’t be a Subaru without the offbeat, highly evocative warble of a horizontally-opposed (or ‘boxer’) engine under the bonnet, and the SVX is no exception. 

The 3.3-litre, 24-valve, flat-six the SVX employed from cradle to grave is unstressed and largely unburstable, and while Subaru does recommend replacing the cambelt every 60,000 miles, the engine is a non-interference type, meaning that a snapped cambelt will simply cause the engine to stop, rather than inflicting potentially terminal damage on valves and pistons.

Elsewhere, owners have been know to report an annoying buzzing sound under hard acceleration that, while irksome, is usually nothing more than a loose exhaust heat shield. Less commonly (and rather more expensive to rectify), however, it can also be symptomatic of a failed secondary catalyst.

RUNNING GEAR

If the SVX has an Achilles’ Heel, it concerns its advanced all-wheel-drive running gear. This generates so much heat that the cooling system has to be in top condition in order to cope, a situation that’s further exacerbated by the fact that the transmission cooler takes its feed from the engine’s radiator; any drop in efficiency here is going to cause problems elsewhere eventually.
As if this wasn’t problematic enough, an inherent gearbox design flaw can also apparently restrict the physical amount of coolant that can circulate around the transmission. Clearly, making sure that the cooling system in any prospective SVX purchase is in rude health is a top priority.
One other potential issue to look out for concerns wheel bearings, which have been known to fail prematurely. This is most commonly caused by another design flaw – this time in the original bearing seals – which allows water to seep into the bearings. Most early SVXs will have been upgraded using the re-designed seal used on later cars by now, but it’s worth checking that this has been done, and that any replacement bearings have been packed with a grade of grease that can withstand high operating temperatures.

INTERIOR

If the SVX’s exterior styling was toned down relative to its XT predecessor, its interior almost borders on the mundane by comparison. Where the XT reinforced its Jetsons exterior looks with a bonkers asymmetrical steering wheel and wilfully kinked joystick gear selector, the SVX’s cabin is of more familiar generic Subaru origin, with acres of shiny grey plastic and matching velour upholstery. That said, it’s all very durable, and the huge seats in particular are supremely comfortable.
The main things to watch out for inside an SVX are non-functioning electrics. With a such high standard specification running to electric windows, electric mirrors, air conditioning and so on, there’s plenty to go wrong, while overcharging the battery can cause the fusable link to blow, which in turn can take several pieces of equipment with it, including – potentially somewhat inconveniently – the dashboard lights.  

OUR VERDICT

Spiralling petrol prices and insurance premiums have done sales of big-engined 1990s coupés no favours at all of late, so the chances of you bagging a well-loved SVX for very little money are extremely good. They’re beautifully engineered, surprisingly quick and make a refreshing change from the long-distance GT cruiser norm.

SUNBEAM TALBOT 90 REVIEW

In the late 1940s, the Sunbeam and Talbot names still had a sporting resonance despite ownership since 1935 by the rationalising Rootes Brothers. The first post-war cars were warmed-over 1930s types, but in June 1948 came genuine new models. Rootes stylist Ted White designed an elegant new body, somewhat let down by the resolutely pre-war mechanicals of the Sunbeam-Talbot 80 but much better as a 90 with a bigger engine in the same body.

The 90 came as a four-door saloon with a pillarless join between rear door and quarter-window, or as a four-seater drophead coupé. Both had rear wheel spats, and the 90 became one of the most successful rally cars of its time in the hands of drivers like Stirling Moss, Sheila Van Damm and Mike Hawthorn.

The first cars had a 1944cc OHV engine, uiltimately derived from a pre-war Humber side-valve type, and with 64bhp this delivered 75mph performance. The fashionable column-change gearbox didn't help acceleration, and the cart-sprung beam axles at both ends showed the age of the basic design.

From September 1950, the Sunbeam-Talbot 90 MkII brought a much better big-bore engine with 2267cc and 70bhp, plus a stronger chassis with a central cruciform brace, independent front suspension and Panhard rod location for the rear axle. Air intake grilles replaced the twin foglamps of the early cars, and headlamps were raised. This was the classic 90, capable of 86mph. There was a more powerful, 77bhp, version of the engine from October 1952, when the MkIIA models appeared. These had bigger brakes to cope, plus ventilated disc wheels, and they lost the rear wheel spats.

From 1954, the Talbot name was dropped, and the cars became Sunbeam MkIII types with air intake grilles embracing the sidelights, portholes in the bonnet sides, duo-tone paint options and an extra-cost overdrive that became almost standard. Drophead coupés went out of production in summer 1955, but the saloons continued until summer 1957. There were 4000 MkI cars, 5493 MkIIs, 10,988 MkIIAs and 2250 MkIIIs.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2267cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power 77bhp@4100rpm

Torque 113lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed 85mph

0-60mph 21sec

Economy 22mpg        

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

GEARBOX
The gearbox is the weakest of the mechanical elements on these cars. It's an uprated Hillman Minx type, which was really only marginal for the job. Bottom gear has no synchromesh, but the teeth on both first and reverse gears can wear and protest loudly. If the gears jump out on the over-run, the synchromesh is probably worn; third gear suffers first. The Laycock overdrive on MkIII cars doesn't give much trouble, but if there are engagement problems, suspect a defunct solenoid. The final drive is a spiral bevel type on early cars, and its internal cage can break up; the MKII and later models have a hypoid unit.

ENGINE
The engines have pre-war origins, and were re-engineered with OHV after the war. They are under-stressed and reliable units that last for a long time between major overhauls – 100,000 miles is only normal by today's standards, but was good in the 1950s. A healthy engine has oil pressure of 40-50psi, and anything less than 30psi is cause for concern. One weakness that sometimes shows up is burnt exhaust valves, which seem to be less common on MkIII models. Spares availability for the engines is quite good.

CHASSIS
The chassis is tough, but you should check the forward hangers of the rear springs, which are mounted on outriggers. The outriggers themselves can rot, too. Examine the lowest point of the side-members, under the rear axle, where water can collect in the box-section and rot it through from the inside. Coil springs on the MkII and later cars can become tired, and the Armstrong lever dampers used on all models also wear. If the steering feels vague, suspect a worn idler (inadequate maintenance accelerates that wear). Less common, but possible on a car that hasn't been used for many years, is incorrect packing between the springs and front axle.

 
BRAKES
Brakes don't normally give cause for concern, and the good news is that some components were shared with other cars. In particular, the MkIII uses the same brake master cylinder as the early Morris Minor, while its wheel cylinders (larger than on earlier 90s) are shared with the Minor 1000.

BODYWORK
New panels haven't been available for years, and your only option will be to patch and repair what you have. The front wings bolt on, so they can be taken off to make repairs slightly easier. Starting at the front of the car, check those wings around the headlamps and wheelarches, and around the air intake grilles, especially on MkIIIs. Look at the back of the wing by the door. The doors themselves rot out at the bottoms, almost always because of blocked drain channels. On the rear wings, examine the front edges, the wheelarches and the lower rear sections. At the back end, rust attacks the neat recesses in the panels that are designed to accommodate the bumper.

Saloons have sunroofs, and their drain tubes can perish or block. The results are rust around the sunroof aperture and rust in the floorpan where water has accumulated. Check the sills, and the area where they join the floor sections. It's also worth examining the boot floor and the boot lid, which has a compartment where the tools are kept. It's almost superfluous to say that drophead coupés also suffer from rotten floorpans and sills; water has no problem getting inside the car, but some difficulty in getting out!

If you're very lucky, you might come across one of the 30 or 40 late MkIII cars uprated by Sunbeam dealer Castles of Leicester. Known as MkIIIS types, these have improved manifolding with a Stromberg D142 carburettor, and came with a Halda average speed recorder attached to the dashboard. Best of all, they also have a floor change – an aftermarket conversion that could also be bought from Castle's for retro-fit to other 90s.
 

OUR VERDICT

The drophead coupés are really pretty but more expensive than their saloon equivalents. None of these cars gives scintillating performance by modern standards, but there's a special satisfaction about driving them. Probably the best model to go for is a late MkIII with overdrive, but you might have to hunt quite hard to get what you want.

SUNBEAM RAPIER REVIEW

You’d be forgiven for thinking this be-finned Sunbeam looks like a shrunken Studebaker. Indeed it shares some resemblance to the US firm’s 1953 range, thanks to both being styled by designer Raymond Loewy. Thanks to its generous helpings of fins and chrome, it’s a glamorous classic with room for four, and if you buy carefully, it shouldn’t cost a fortune to run either. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Sunbeam Rapier Series IIIA

Engine                                    1592cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  80bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 88lb ft@3800rpm

Top speed                                90mph

0-60mph                                  19.3sec

Consumption                           29mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Like many of the Rootes Group’s offerings from this era, rust is a major Rapier bug-bear. It didn’t come with inner wheel arches so the area behind the wheels should be one of your first places to check. Ideally, a well looked after car will have been treated with oil here by its previous owners. Mechanical parts are cheap and plentiful. But with body and trim items the challenge is finding the right ones for a given car, as the chrome in particular changed as the range evolved. The SIII also had a bigger windscreen than its predecessors.

ENGINE

The Rapier received a series of engines throughout its life, ranging from 1390cc-1725cc. They’re durable, but engines after the Series IIIA used alloy rather than steel heads, and are more likely to suffer head gasket problems. The Series IIIA had a larger engine than previous models, and the additional torque helped give it durability. Poor hot starting/stalling could be down to a poor quality NOS rotor arm, while high ethanol content in modern petrol can strip the paint from inside the fuel tank and allow it to contaminate the fuel pump and lines.

ELECTRICS

The only real issue concerns the dynamo fitted to the earlier models, which often needs replacing, especially on cars fitted with better headlights.

RUNNING GEAR

A worn or damaged synchro hub or baulk ring will result in an unpleasantly crunchy gearbox, while oil will seep from the seal-less timing cover if it isn’t fitted dead-centre on the pulley shaft.

The good news is that many of the Rapier’s mechanical components are shared with its siblings from across the Rootes Group – the Sunbeam Alpine and Hillman Minx, in particular – which helps keep prices of spares down. Suspension, steering and braking systems were gradually improved as the Rapier evolved, but they are generally free of any particularly problems if they’ve been looked after. Push down firmly on all four corners of the car and listen for any unusual creaking or clunking noises, which may indicate worn suspension components. Failed overdrives (they were standard fitment) can usually be sorted by replacing the operating switch or its wiring, or the solenoid on the side of the overdrive unit itself.

INTERIOR

On convertibles, check the hood for scratches or tears, and look for evidence of water ingress. Parts for the Rapier’s interior can prove tricky to track down if they’re missing or damaged, so it’s worth joining the owners club. The design (and therefore part number) for the control knob on the demister levers, for instance, changed eight times throughout the Rapier’s life!

OUR VERDICT

If you fancy something with a bit of 1950s glitz but find the fuel bills associated with American classics hard to stomach then the Rapier stacks up as more than just a stylish alternative. Not only does it look the part, but it’s practical enough to use as a family-friendly classic. True, it’s rarer and less obvious than Triumph’s rival Herald. Best advice is to join the club and make use of friendships there to give support and help you avoid any major headaches.

SUNBEAM TIGER REVIEW

The Rootes wannabe-Cobra is still within the bounds of affordability, but don't be complacent

The Alpine was already a fine sports car, but it was always crying out for a little more power. The Tiger blessed it with rather more speed – 60mph now coming up in less than 10 seconds compared to 14 for the quickest Alpine. Of course, it’s not just about the power – that lazy Ford V8 provides the perfect, burbling sound-track. 

The steering is sweeter than an Alpine too, thanks to the rack-and-pinion steering, though behind the wheel, you’re always aware of the standard brakes. It’s easy to see why some go for upgrades, especially if you like pushing on. As a tourer, the Tiger works very nicely. It’ll potter along majestically at motorway speeds and if the wind gets too much, the soft-top is one of the best out there. One thing’s for sure, you stop querying the vast value difference over Alpines once that engine starts pulling.

VITAL STATISTICS

Sunbeam Tiger MkI

Engine                                    4260cc/8-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  164bhp@4400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 258lb ft@2200rpm

Top speed                                118mph

0-60mph                                  9.5sec

Consumption                            18mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Corrosion can strike around the windscreen frame, so gently check it isn’t prone to movement. Check the roof for condition – it’s a really snug soft-top which should be a tight fit, with no air or water leaks. A handful of Tigers were built to GT spec which, like the equivalent Alpine, means you only got a hardtop with no soft-top fitted.

ENGINE

Identity is everything and we really must recommend that you contact the Sunbeam Tiger Owners’ Club for expert advice. ID plates are one thing, but the club holds the original Jensen ledgers, which show numbers for engines and gearboxes. Top money is only paid for highly original, genuine Tigers. The market is rightly very wary of cars where the ID is suspicious – quite a few Alpines have been converted. You don’t want to pay ‘genuine’ money for a car that isn’t the real thing.

RUNNING GEAR

On a Mk1, check that the correct 260 cubic inch V8 is installed. Some are tempted to drop in the larger 289 unit of the MkII, for which there are many more tuning parts available. It was a powerplant fitted to a great many cars. Does the engine number match the V5? The unit itself is very robust, with few foibles if cared for. It does generate a lot of heat though, so keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Make sure the Ford four-speed gearbox changes nicely. Some fit five-speed units. The inner wings were modified by Jensen to allow fitment of the V8 and a steering rack is fitted as there was no room for the box of the Alpine. That rack is unique to the Tiger, so make sure it is free of play. 

The rear axle has some serious power to contend with. It’s a Salisbury unit, so it should be up to the job. The downside is that they can be ferociously expensive to overhaul. They tend to howl very noticeably when they’re getting tired, 

so tune out that V8 for a moment. A Panhard
rod helps with rear axle location, so check its mountings for rot. Tired rear springs will leave
the back end sagging, so have a glance at the
ride height.

The exhaust system is simple enough that while original parts are no longer available, there’s not usually a problem getting a system made up to suit. Make sure it isn’t striking the underside.

BRAKES

Incredibly, the brakes are stock Alpine, so don’t be surprised if modifications to boost stopping power have occurred. Some are now fitting Peugeot 406 calipers. While in this area, check for corrosion around the suspension mounting points, and the front wings. A complete wing will set you back £585. Panels are getting hard to find, even though most of it is stock Alpine. Watch for rot sneaking from the wheelarch into the sill. Underneath, there’s an X-frame welded to the body to create a monocoque. Rot in the frame or surroundings can be very tricky to eradicate.

INTERIOR

Finding trim is difficult, whether that’s inside or out. Check the interior carefully for water ingress and condition. Behind the front seats, check the floor thoroughly as the rear suspension mounts are located here. 

OUR VERDICT

Sadly, the market seems to be cottoning on to the Tiger, and values have been rising. That’s not surprising when you see what AC Cobras are starting to make – the Cobra started with the same engine as the Tiger. So, they’re not cheap but they really do deliver. 

SUNBEAM TALBOT 90 MKIII REVIEW

Prices are rising for these saloons, so now is the perfect time to take a look

The Ryton-built Sunbeam Talbot 90 range was launched in 1948 and evolved into the MkIII version by 1956 when production ended. Changes included enlarged air intakes on each side of the front grille, and three ‘porthole’ vents at the rear of the front wings. Independent front suspension was also added as was a larger, more powerful engine that was based on a Humber unit – both of which vastly improved the handling and driveability of the 90. The Talbot name was dropped for this version too. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Sunbeam 90 MkIII

Engine                                    2267cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  80bhp@4400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 121lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                93mph

0-60mph                                  17.4sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rust is something of a problem with the 90. It can strike in all the expected places including the front wings, particularly around the headlamps, front cooling vents, and at the rear where they meet the doors. Pay close attention to the sills, bottoms of the doors, the inner and outer skin of the rear wheel arches, and the lower edge of the boot lid. Other trouble spots include the spare wheel well, and the point where the rear wing and boot floor meet – the felt pads applied to the inside of the panels soak up moisture.  

ENGINE

The Humber-based unit is well-proven and durable with regular maintenance, and came with a cylinder head and alloy con-rods that were unique to the 90. Oil leaks from the sump and rear main crankshaft seal can be an annoyance but are easily cured, while a healthy cooling system is vital for longevity. Silting-up of the engine block and radiator can cause hot running so watch for signs of overheating on the test drive. Replacing the radiator with an uprated unit from the Alpine is a popular and worthwhile modification. 

RUNNING GEAR

The 90 was fitted with a four-speed manual ‘box and column shift as standard, with overdrive an optional extra (worth having for the improved cruising ability). Apart from worn synchromesh and shift linkages there is little to worry about here, though it’s worth mentioning that a conversion to a floor-mounted shift was a popular modification. A dealership in Leicester offered these in period, the fitting of a Hillman Hunter gearbox being a more recent solution – expect to pay somewhere over £2000 for this to be done. It’s not unheard of for cracks to appear in the rear axle carrier around the differential, which is bad news as parts are hard to obtain, so don’t ignore any problems here. Other issues to watch for include play in the steering box, worn front wishbone mounts and kingpins, leaking dampers; and sagging rear leaf springs. The drum brakes are more than up to the task of slowing the heavy Sunbeam as long as they have been set-up properly, so the attention of a specialist is often all that’s needed to improve braking performance.  

INTERIOR

Check leather seats, carpets, and door trims carefully and adjust the asking price accordingly if they are particularly tatty. Old wiring can present a risk on any classic of this age, more so if previous owners have been tempted to uprate lighting. One area worth checking closely is the sliding sunroof that was fitted as standard to the 90 range. Make sure there are no signs of water leaks.

OUR VERDICT

If you’re after a spacious, comfortable classic then the Sunbeam 90 makes a lot of sense. Solid build quality and good driving manners make it very usable on a daily basis as well as ideal for long-distance touring. So all told a good all-rounder which is what many of us want from our classic car. The 90 is decent value at the moment too, and although prices are slowly rising for the best examples, a well-cared for car shouldn’t break the bank to run.

SUZUKI CAPPUCCINO REVIEW

If you want economy motoring but don’t want to have to cut back on the fun factor, the Cappuccino is the car for you. Offering plenty of fun per pound, you don’t need more than four grand to snap up something nice, and despite a tiny three-cylinder engine up front, there’s more performance on offer than you’d ever imagine. You’re also onto a winner when it comes to running costs, because 45mpg is no problem and as long as you look after one, a Cappuccino is reliable, so you don’t need many new bits to keep one going.
Despite those compact dimensions, you’ll also find plenty of room inside the snug cabin, as long as you’re not well over six feet tall. The Cappuccino is brilliantly adaptable, as it converts between fully open and fully closed with the minimum of fuss. You can also go for a half-way option, by leaving the sliding rear window in place. However, if you’ve got luggage to carry, that might be all you can manage as the boot is tiny. But there are plenty of people in the Cappuccino club who use their cars every day – and love every minute of doing so.
Only 1110 examples of the UK-spec Cappuccino were sold in the UK between 1993 and 1995; 80 per cent were painted red and the rest were silver. UK sales ended in 1995, but Japanese buyers then got a revised Cappuccino. It had a different engine, optional three-speed automatic transmission, power steering plus ABS, driver’s airbag and LSD.
Total Cappuccino production was 28,010; lots of cars now in the UK were originally sold in Japan – including some examples of the highly desirable post-1995 model. While these later cars are unusual over here, they’re well worth seeking out.

VITAL STATISTICS

Suzuki Cappuccino

Engine 657cc/3-cyl/DOHC

Power 63bhp@6500rpm

Torque 63ft lb@4000rpm

Top speed 93mph

0-60mph 11sec

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

These cars weren’t particularly well rust-proofed as Japan doesn’t use salt on its roads. Even official UK type-approved cars didn’t get much rust protection – the floorpans were pretty much untreated despite a six-year anti-corrosion warranty. As a result, the floorpans, sills and wheelarches (inner and outer) all corrode, along with the headlight supports and inner wings. Indeed there can be corrosion all around the engine bay, so lift the bonnet and check.

The roof panels, boot lid and bonnet are all aluminium, which is great for reducing weight, but not so good when it comes to dent resistance. Bearing in mind the high replacement cost, check them closely.

If you can find a car that‘s been Waxoyled from new, you’re in luck – even better if it’s been retreated every few years. However, even rusty cars can be revived as everything is available apart from floorpans – but reviving a Cappuccino professionally costs at least £5000.

Engines It might be a spiritual successor to the Spridget, but the Cappuccino is a lot more complex. Along with a turbocharger and intercooler there’smulti-point fuel injection and a pair of overhead camshafts acting on a quartet of valves for each cylinder. Crucially, even though the Cappuccino features a 657cc engine, you can expect the triple to last well over 100,000 miles if looked after.

Buying a car with history is desirable as the engine needs its oil changed every 6000 miles. Although there’s a turbocharger, it’s usually very reliable, but if it fails you’re looking at £695 for a replacement plus a couple of hours to fit it – assume a total bill of around £900 from a specialist such as Cappuccino Sport. Check for white smoke and untoward noises – you should be able to hear it working, but it shouldn’t be particularly loud. More likely is a cracked cast-iron exhaust manifold; they fatigue with the constant heating and cooling. Various replacements are available from £120; tubular stainless steel items are popular at around £600.

If the car has had its restrictor removed, or if it’s had its brain remapped (chipped), the chances are the car has seen some hard use. The ECU is located in the passenger side footwell; any aftermarket ECU cover will be obvious, although most owners own up, as they see these things as a selling point.

Cambelts need changing every 60,000 miles – on any high-mileage car it’s worth replacing it as a matter of course.

TRANSMISSION

Second gear synchro usually wears out within 60,000 miles, so try to beat it on the test drive. If all doesn’t seem well, haggle hard on price, as although the part needed is only £50, the labour rates to fit it will soon push up the cost to £400. The rest of the transmission is strong, but clutches can prove weak on hard-driven cars, so check for any slipping as you accelerate through the gears.

SUSPENSION & BRAKES

There’s nothing to worry about with a Cappuccino’s suspension, except for the possibility of tired dampers. It’s the same with the brakes; with discs at each corner and a kerb weight of just 725kg, the system doesn’t have to work too hard.

INTERIOR

The trim may look like it’s leather, but it isn’t. It is hard-wearing though, so any car that’s looking tatty is neglected.

The ious roof and door seals perish, leading to water leaks into the cabin. Sets of new seals are available for £239 per set, and they’re easy enough to fit; the biggest problem is reviving an interior that’s got damp.

It’s easy enough to pick up a set of overmats for the footwells; at £46 per set, they’re worth it in order to protect the factory-fitted trim.

VERDICT

Despite the tiny numbers associated with the Cappuccino, it’s a surprisingly useable car. You don’t need any special tools to service a Cappuccino, although any owner should join the Suzuki Cappuccino Owners’ Register for Enthusiasts (SCORE), which has a deal with ious Suzuki dealers around the country, allowing you to get discounted servicing.

If there’s a downside to Cappuccino ownership, it’s high parts prices; consumables are cheap enough, but replacement headlights are £375 for example. That’s why you must make sure any Cappuccino you’re thinking of buying is in good condition, or priced to sell. Get a good one and you won’t believe just how much fun such a small car can be.

TALBOT SUNBEAM LOTUS REVIEW

The Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus was introduced to a shocked market in the summer of 1979. With an up-gunned 2.2-litre version of the twin-cam motor that had been used in the Jensen-Healey sports car, it offered 155bhp in road trim, while competition cars pumped out 230bhp. 
The Sunbeam-Lotus production process was an interesting one, and it is obvious why only so few were made. Each car started life at Linwood as a 1.6GLS, but received stiffer springing and damping, along with a larger anti-roll bar, stiffer suspension mounts and tougher gearbox casings at the factory. The cars were then shipped to Lotus at Hethel in Norfolk, for the installation of the engine and ZF gearbox, before being taken to the Stoke works in Coventry for final pre-delivery inspections. The production process may have been convoluted, but the end result was a stunning road car. By the time production was halted in 1981, Lotus claimed to have built 2298 examples, although Talbot said an extra 10 were produced, probably due to pre-production and works rally car builds completed by the factory.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 2170cc/4-cyl/DOHC
Power 150bhp @ 5750rpm
Torque 150lb ft @ 4500rpm
Top Speed 121mph
0-60mph 7.4sec
Economy 19mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Bonnets rot out at their front edges, as do the headlamp boxes attached to the inner wings. There is also a mud-trap just above and behind the indicator unit. Front wheelarch lips can rust away, but inner wings should be your biggest concern – strut tops corrode, as can the lower inner wings, so check them carefully. Original panels are difficult to source, and while repro panels are available, they’re not cheap, so do bear this in mind. Another common rot spot is the front of the footwell, where it meets the bulkhead/inner wing joint. Mud gets lodged inside the back of the wing and the screen rubbers often leak – a nasty combination that can lead to horrible levels of rust. Also check carefully along all the sills and door bottoms. Finally, make sure you examine the rear arches, rear valance and boot floor, where the underfelt acts like a sponge.

Hard-driven cars with major engine upgrades have been known to suffer from cracks in the front chassis members, just to the rear of the ARB mounts. Such cracks are a serious problem, so make sure you check them scrupulously and don’t miss them, especially if they’re hidden by underseal. Welding plates over the cracks can solve the problem, but the whole crossmember may need replacing – either way, a whole lot of dismantling will be required.

ENGINE

General maintenance is surprisingly straightforward, with decent parts availability and no special tools required. Be aware that the Lotus engine is fragile if not serviced properly – its essential that both the oil and filter are replaced every 5000 miles, with top-notch oil used – fully synthetic is fine. The cambelt and tensioner must also be replaced at least every 25,000 miles or two years. When viewing a car, ask whether the previous owner has kept on top of this. Stick to these rules and the powerplant is easily capable of achieving more than 100,000 miles. Even better, it will happily run on Super Unleaded, too – some enthusiastic owners also add an octane booster to spice things up even further.

Be wary of regular Talbot Sunbeams being passed off as the real thing. Check everything against the V5C if you’re concerned about authenticity – the VIN plate can be found in front of the radiator and the engine number is stamped between the starter motor and the cam housing. A Lotus shell has a larger transmission tunnel for the ZF gearbox – though not the same as an automatic gearbox tunnel – plus folded-back wheelarch lips to accommodate the large alloys and the modification of the inner rear panel to allow the spare to fit.

RUNNING GEAR

The ZF gearbox is a tough old unit, but make sure that it is still fitted to the car – the casing is highly sought-after by Escort rally car builders. When cold, it can be tricky finding second gear; however, when warm, changes should be smooth. If the car has been used for competition in the past, check the tubes where they meet the differential housing for twists, looking for looseness or general play. Fitting a limited-slip diff is another popular modification, particularly with competition in mind, so find out what has been fitted when viewing a prospective purchase

INTERIOR

Interior-wise, the original Series 1 pale grey Sharktooth material is harder-wearing than the S2 striped Piccadilly material. Regardless of this, both are difficult to find these days. For moulded components such as the rear wheelarch covers, however, the reverse is true – S2 items in black are hardier than grey S1 versions.

VERDICT

If you’re after a hot hatch, but fancy something more exclusive than a Golf GTI or 205GTI, the Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus fits the bill perfectly. In an era when everyone else was plumping for modern front-wheel drive set-ups, Talbot was busy doing the right thing and sending it to the back. Remember, Lotus probably knew more about how to set up a car in 1979 than most people do now, so the Sunbeam-Lotus is an extremely sweet little package, as well as being hugely rewarding to drive. It even has an impressive competition pedigree, too. A regular on the world rally stage between 1979 and 1982, it won the Lombard RAC Rally in 1980 and took the World Rally Championship the following year. With that heritage, combined with the fantastic sound it makes when you open it up, the Sunbeam-Lotus is seriously enticing.

BOND BUG REVIEW

It might look like a cross between Thunderbird 4 and a space hopper, but if you want a classic to bring a smile to your face, then look no further than the Bond Bug.

Just one look at a Bond Bug is enough to know that it’s a child of the 1970s. The bug was the result of an unlikely tie-up between Reliant and Czech designer, Tom Karen. Reliant had just bought the Bond name, but weren’t quite sure what to do with it. Enter the Bug – Karen’s wacky design was the kind of car you tended to see in concept form at a motor show, but Reliant must have been feeling adventurous, since they put it into full production.

Despite its obvious deficiency in the wheel department, the threewheeler cost more than a Mini or Hillman Imp when new. Stop at a shop, and by the time you’ve climbed out, it’s as though all the children in the world have come out to see you. Draw up outside any pub or club you can think of, and there won’t be another car with a bigger crowd around it.

It’s easy to see the Bug’s appeal today too. Classic car buyers care less about the practicalities – the emphasis is on fun, an area in which the little Bond excels. And if you’re in the market for a car that looks like a wedge of Red Leicester on wheels, then your search is definitely over.

At the wheel

Open the canopy and the entire top of the car swings up and forward, aircraft-style. The cockpit is roomy, but very snug. There are no concessions to glamour everything is ergonomic, functional, a little austere, even. The seats look like astronauts’ couches and you sit almost full length – the classic, straight-arm position of the racing driver – a position that’s surprisingly comfortable once you’re used to it.

Between your knees is the 12-inch steering wheel. The controls are orthodox, though, with everything where you expect it to be. The steering response may be more immediate than you’re used to, but you have far more sense of control than you do with a conventional car. Partly, this is because of the exceptional response of three-wheel suspension, which makes for sure, safe handling, with or without a passenger. But there is another very important reason the Bug’s wedge shape. It cuts through the air rather like the bow of a ship slicing cleanly through the water. This means the Bug has a very low drag coefficient, good stability in high winds and excellent ‘anti-lift’ characteristics.

Our verdict

The Bug does not claim to be a sports car; there are plenty of those around if that’s what floats your boat. No, the Bug is something else – a fun car. If most of your driving is workaday A-to-B, the Bug could be exactly what you need. It is cheap to run, quick to get in and out of, and highly manoeuvrable. It has a surprisingly useable boot, and can top 200 miles on a single tank of fuel. Reliant sourced its parts from all over the place too the headlights were donated by the Austin Allegro; the Mini provided the drum brakes; and the bootlock’s usual home is on the glovebox of a Triumph Dolomite. Also, it is remarkably easy to park. You can drive the centre wheel right up to the kerb, and you don’t have to leave room at the sides for the doors to open. It is, in fact, an excellent little runabout.

BOND EQUIPE REVIEW

If you want a British coupé that’s brimming with character, then the Bond Equipe could be for you...

The Bond Equipe coupé was launched in 1963. Known as the GT2+2, it utilised the robust and adaptable chassis from the Triumph Herald clothed in a mixture of steel and glassfibre panels and was initially fitted with the 1147cc engine from the Spitfire, while later versions gained higher-capacity Spitfire engines.

VITAL STATISTICS

Bond Equipe GT2+2

Engine                                    1147cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  63bhp@5750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 67lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                90mph

0-60mph                                  17.6sec

Consumption                            30mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The mix of steel and GRP used in the Equipe means careful checks are needed. Rot in that Herald chassis is a concern so you’ll need to check areas such as the outriggers and chassis rails as well as the bulkhead, scuttle panel, sills, floorpan, doors, rear wheel arches, and windscreen frame. Apart from the doors, the majority of the upper panels are GRP. Quality varied between cars when new so watch for cracks and crazing that indicate damage, and pay particular attention to the large front-hinged bonnet and the hinges themselves. 

A good look at the body mounting points is advisable too – a car that feels baggy or rattly on the test drive could have problems here. Check the boot area, too as there should be wooden panels covering both the spare wheel well and sides. These are often rotten, damaged, or completely missing.

ENGINE

The Triumph engines are well-proven and are neither costly nor difficult to overhaul in the main. Oil leaks, excessively smoky exhausts, and general neglect are the main problems, though early Spitfire units suffered from wear in the crankshaft thrust washers. Fore/aft movement of the crank pulley when the engine is off and the clutch is depressed means trouble and failure will damage the block, effectively destroying the engine. Cooling systems need to be up to scratch so watch for signs of overheating although flushing the system and fitting a new radiator will usually cure any problems. Otherwise, proof of regular servicing will provide peace of mind. Interestingly the Stromberg carburettors of the 2.0-litre Vitesse engine were normally of American specification, and adjustment screws can be sealed due to emissions regulations – worth bearing in mind if the car runs poorly.

RUNNING GEAR

Worn synchro on second gear and rattling layshaft bearings (the noise should disappear when the clutch is pressed) are the main issues, while a sloppy gear linkage is easily sorted.  Mk II models used ‘Rotoflex’ rubber couplings for the driveshafts – vibration from the rear of the car meaning replacement is imminent. The disc/drum brakes are trouble-free and cheaply overhauled while the suspension should be reliable with regular fettling. The rack and pinion steering should feel sharp, so anything else points to perished rack mounts or a worn column universal joint. 

INTERIOR

Improving a tired interior isn’t difficult, but its worth nothing that many may have been modified over the years. The ‘ambla’ vinyl fitted to some models is difficult to find, and you should check convertibles for signs of water ingress. Most important is the Les Leston wooden wheel that some cars were fitted with, they are getting very valuable, so take this into account when negotiating.

OUR VERDICT

With style and rarity in its favour, not to mention terrific value, it isn’t hard to see why the Bond Equipe holds such appeal. The mix of steel and GRP construction can make major restoration a costly affair, but find a good one and the Triumph underpinnings mean day-to-day running costs are very wallet-friendly. The helpful and enthusiastic owners club offers a wealth of knowledge and advice too.

BENTLEY TURBO R REVIEW

Boasting an enormous price tag when new – comfortably in excess of £100,000 in 1990 – the Bentley Turbo R is now the luxury bargain of the 21st Century. The best thing is that Turbo Rs make absolute sense as a driving machine too. A generous prod on the accelerator elicits a rush of energy that launches you past lesser vehicles. If you’re in a post-1990 model complete with clever active suspension, you’ll enjoy total composure in the corners, too. Tempted?

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The first Turbo Rs are now 25 years old, so despite excellent build quality when new, they will rust if neglected. Rear wheelarches are particularly prone to corrosion if the car hasn’t been cared for. Make sure you examine up inside the arch, as well as down at either end of the sill. Water gets in at both ends, but especially the front. The rear valance can also corrode, and it is well hidden behind the rear bumper, so be thorough with your examination. Under the car, front outriggers can rot on higher mileage cars, while the rear spring pans should also be checked closely.

Engine

Pre-1987 carburettor-fed examples are less popular because the complex Solex four-choke unit has a poor reputation for reliability. They can also suffer from hot-starting issues, unknown on fuel-injected models. Either motor should cruise beyond 200,000 miles without requiring major attention, provided that proper service intervals
have been respected.
Poor starting, pinking, uneven idling or lack of responsiveness could be anything from a leaking inlet manifold to an engine management fault, the latter more common on post-1994 cars. Take a test drive and keep a close eye on the temperature gauge – steer clear of anything that overheats. Cooling leaks can quickly become serious, so check carefully for drips or weeping hoses anywhere in the system. Minor oil leaks are par for the course on a 50-year-old engine design, but liberal coatings of oil on the underside should find you walking away. Leaking turbo oil feed pipes are another bad sign
– a loss of oil feed will cause the turbo to fail, with potentially catastrophic results, so be on your guard.

Running Gear

Two sturdy GM automatic gearboxes were used through the production span of the Turbo R. The three-speeder used until 1992 is simpler, but the later four-speeder gives better flexibility, acceleration and economy. Both should find all their gears without hesitation. Transmission fluid should always look pink and clean. You might hear a whine from the differential on high-mileage cars, suggesting a hard life. They will go on like this for a while, but clunks or rumbles are a definite no-no.
Suspension-wise, both standard (pre-1990) and active suspension should provide excellent ride quality. A well looked after car shouldn’t feel loose or sloppy, even over a poor surface. When they need replacing, the active dampers are very expensive, so haggle accordingly if this is required. Power steering is standard on all models. Leaks can occur from the pump, the rack and the connecting hoses. 

Interior and Electrics

It is unlikely you will find a car where the cabin has been mistreated, but look out for dirty leather, worn carpets and pedal rubbers, and untidy boot linings. All of these symptoms point to a car that hasn’t been treated with sufficient respect. Veneer door cappings and dash sections can fade due to sunlight, so avoid cracked or peeling varnish. Ensure exterior chrome isn’t pitted – the hefty, impact-absorbing bumpers should also be straight and free from scratches.

OUR VERDICT

Turbo Rs are complex machines, so seek expert advice both before and after you buy. Buying one privately can be worth the saving over a specialist dealer’s price, but you will be glad of a reputable trader’s guarantee should things go wrong. Rough examples can have a thirst for cash that’s bigger than their thirst for fuel. Get a good one, however, and it can be astonishing value for money. But be careful – once you’ve acquired a taste for the high life, you may find it hard to settle for anything less.

BENTLEY 3 1/2 LITRE DERBY REVIEW

It looks classic, it drives well and you look like Cruella DeVille. What's not to like? 

The Bentley sporting tradition was maintained following the acquisition of the financially troubled company by Rolls-Royce Motors Ltd in 1931. It was 1933 before the ''Silent Sportscar'' was announced, developed from the experimental Rolls-Royce 18hp Peregrine chassis and an all-new six-cylinder overhead valve 3,669cc engine for the Bentley 3 1/2-litre. The new cars had a top speed of 90mph, but now with a silence, directly attributable to Rolls-Royce engineering.

TOYOTA MR2 REVIEW

Squeezing a remarkable amount of driving enjoyment from the bare minimum of component parts, the MR2 can rightly take its place in the sports car hall of fame. Toyota’s engineers were certainly onto a good thing when they readied the baby coupé for its 1984 launch; a mid-engined layout, small but zippy 16-valve powerplant, razor-sharp handling and up-to-the-minute styling.
Others, such as the Fiat X1/9, had already explored this layout, but the MR2’s great strength was adding Toyota’s legendary reliability into the mix. When the first examples started to appear on British roads, they boasted a five-speed gearbox and a gusty 1.6 litres, although overseas markets also received a supercharged version. The more rounded Mk2 version took up the MR2 baton in 1989.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Although better protected at the factory than many modern classics, rust can still strike with the MR2. Start your inspection checking for evidence of cabin leaks. Whether the car you’re looking at has a T-bar and removable roof panels, or simply a sunroof, water ingress from either will result in damp carpets; check the floor pans for signs of the resultant rust damage. Windscreen pillars can corrode from beneath the bonded-in windscreen.
Inspect the bottom of the rear quarter panels, particularly where they adjoin the B-post. Although most of this area is covered by plastic trim, be on the lookout for bubbling paint around the trim edges; a tell-tale of hidden corrosion. The same can be said for the plastic sill trims, fitted to all but the earliest Mk1s.  

ENGINE & GEAROX

Toyota’s engines are famed for their toughness and reliability, and the MR2’s powerplant is no different. UK-spec cars were fitted with a revvy 16-valve, 1587cc, four-cylinder lump. Mileages well in excess of 150,000 miles can easily be achieved, although a lack of correct maintenance won’t have done the engine any favours.
Ask the vendor how often the car has been serviced, and also ensure that the cambelt has been renewed every 60,000 miles. Failure to do so could have expensive consequences. Look out for signs of moisture in the cooling system, indicating a blown head gasket. With an alloy cylinder head, the correct level of anti-freeze must be maintained. 

RUNNING GEAR

With a tough five-speed gearbox handling the engine’s power, the transmission is as reliable as the engine. On your test drive, watch out for a heavily worn ‘box that jumps out of fifth gear under hard acceleration. Repair is possible, but it may make more sense simply to exchange the entire unit.
Warped disc brakes on early, pre-1985 cars are common, so feel for judder when braking. Later cars were fitted with beefier items at the factory, so are less susceptible. Listen out for knocking while on the move, which could be caused by tired anti-roll bar drop links, or worn-out steering rack or tie-rod end bushes. Bounce each corner of the car in turn; if the car takes time to settle, a damper could be at fault.

INTERIOR & ELECTRONICS

Hard-wearing plastics give little cause for concern, while later leather items can be repaired or re-trimmed, at a price. The controls can give a clue to the car’s true mileage; do a well-worn steering wheel and pedals back up the odometer reading? 
Test the electrical functions, as non-functioning electric windows are costly to put right. Also check the operation of the central locking button.

OUR VERDICT

If ever there was a car that proved that you don’t need a colossal power output and a huge price tag to make a good driver’s car, then the MR2 is it. Absurdly low values mean that, if you choose sensibly, you can track down a driving machine that you will not only enjoy, but will last for an awfully long time. That mid-engined, rear-wheel drive, two-seater layout endows the MR2 with surprising poise, yet its light weight and diminutive size results in a modest thirst.

BENTLEY 4 1/4 LITRE DERBY REVIEW

Is there anything quite as gracious as the Bentley 4 1/4 Derby? 

By the end of the 1930s the Derby Bentley, introduced towards the beginning of that decade following the firms take-over by Rolls-Royce, had undergone a number of significant developments, not the least of which was an increase in bore size in 1936 that upped the capacity to 4,257cc, a move that coincided with the adoption of superior Halls Metal bearings. 

This new engine was shared with the equivalent Rolls-Royce - the 25/30hp - and as had been the case with the preceding 3.5-Litre model, enjoyed a superior specification in Bentley form, boasting twin SU carburettors, raised compression ratio and a more sporting camshaft.

Thus the new 4-Litre model offered more power than before while retaining the well-proven chassis with its faultless gear-change and servo-assisted brakes. The Derby Bentley 4 1/4 was, of course, an exclusively coachbuilt automobile. Of the 2,442 manufactured, almost 50 percent were bodied by Park Ward.

BENTLEY 4 1/2 LITRE SUPERCHARGED REVIEW

Birkin, Rubin, Chassagne, Benjafield, Ramponi, Harcourt-Wood and Kensington-Moir were just some of the legendary names associated with the fabulous supercharged Birkin Team Cars.

Birkins wealth was derived from the Nottingham lace industry and it was his influence and determination that resulted in the supercharged Bentleys, despite W.O. Bentleys personal resistance to the fitting of the blower. Birkins enthusiasm and drive for achieving higher speeds was supported by the forceful Woolf Barnato and the Hon.

Dorothy Pagets money. Although 50 supercharged cars were built there were just five proper Birkin Blowers. These thundering cars raced at such glamorous venues as Le Mans and Brooklands and in the French and Irish Grand Prix and the Ulster Tourist Trophy.

The Birkin cars looked fabulous, sounded breathtaking at full song and their racing achievements were limited only by a design that was perhaps two or three years out of date. Nevertheless the legend of the Birkin Blowers and the people and events linked with that glamorous motor racing epoch live on.

TOYOTA MR2 MKIII REVIEW

How to choose a cracking example of this last-generation mid-engine roadster.

Since its launch in 1984, the ‘Mid-ship Runabout 2’ has impressed buyers with a blend of sharp styling and even sharper dynamics.  The first two generations were available only as coupes, although many were fitted with a lift-out T-bar roof, but for the third and final ‘W30’ model Toyota went the whole hog and produced the car solely as a drop-top roadster.  On sale from 2000-2006 it certainly proved a hit with those after good looks and agile handling without breaking the bank, and the same remains true today.  Much of the enjoyment to be had comes courtesy of the delightfully free-revving 1.8-litre twin-cam motor, and while 140bhp might not sound like much nowadays it’s enough to get the lightweight two-seater to 60mph in less than eight seconds.  And while you have to work the engine to get the best out of it, that’s certainly no hardship as it spins to the 6400rpm power peak with real gusto.  A slick-shifting manual gearbox helps to get the best out of it, too, and while there’s the option of a sequential transmission there’s far more fun to be had by swapping ratios yourself.  Wringing the motor out will also introduce you to another facet of the MR2, and that’s the fine handling.  Again, the modest weight pays dividends as it changes direction with real poise and agility, and thanks to the standard limited-slip differential grip is limpet like in the dry.  Slippery conditions are another matter though, and while it’s not especially tricky the combination of short-ish wheelbase, mid-engine layout, and 55 per cent rearward weight bias demands a degree of respect. The accurate and feelsome steering is the icing on the cake, though, when it comes to a twisty B-road.  Things are pretty pleasant on the inside, too, with a snug but comfortable cabin and all the kit you’re likely to need although trim is on the plasticky side.  And while some people complain of limited luggage space, it’s no worse than similar cars in reality.  And you can always pack light to enjoy everything this cracking roadster has to offer. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine           1794cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            140bhp@6400rpm

Torque          127lb ft@4400rpm

Top speed    130mph

0-60mph        7.9secs

Economy      38mpg

Gearbox        5/6-speed manual/Sequential Manual Transmission

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The majority of the steel panels are bolted on, which makes replacement easier, but it’s well worth checking for any evidence of previous accident damage.  A combination of lively performance and rearward weight bias could have led to some exiting the road backwards so check the history and examine the panel gaps and paintwork for any sign of mismatches.  Parts prices are reasonable, though.

Corrosion doesn’t appear to be a major issue, but with the earliest now fifteen years old a thorough check of the panels makes sense.  Some owners have complained of rot affecting the rear sub-frame and cross-member, and it can be hidden out of sight, so get a specialist to check if you’re unsure.  The same goes for the sills, and you should also check for any signs of interior damp that could have allowed rust to develop: the hood drain holes in the side vents can become blocked allowing water to flow into the cabin.

Engine

The 1ZZ-FED engine is a cracker, but not without issues in pre-facelift cars built before late 2002.  The main one is the potential for the brittle innards of the ‘pre-cat’ – the catalytic convertor located after the exhaust manifold but ahead of the main cat – to break up, with bits ingested into the engine via the EGR system with disastrous consequences.  The cylinder bores get scored leading to high oil consumption and excessive smoke, so ask the vendor whether the engine has been changed or the cats removed.  Not all were affected by any means, but it’s worth checking the history.  Failed oxygen sensors can be common too: three are fitted and it’s often sensible to replace them all at the same time.  OEM items are pricey but best according to specialists.

It’s also worth checking for loose and rattling exhaust heat shields and evidence of oil leaks from around the timing chain tensioner which can be tricky to cure.  The chain itself should be trouble-free as long as oil changes haven’t been neglected.  A fat sheaf of bills gives peace of mind and a well maintained example will cover big mileages without trouble.  Also, these engines respond well to tuning so make sure you’re aware of any work that might have been done here.  The MR2 is well served by specialists and parts suppliers so keeping one in good mechanical fettle will be no problem.

Interior

The cabin is well screwed together, so only abused cars should be showing any significant signs of wear and tear.  Check everything works, though, including the air-conditioning which was standard on factory hard top models.  That top is quite desirable and can be retro-fitted, although a kit is required costing a couple of hundred pounds. Check it hasn’t been damaged by clumsy handling or storage, though.  The convertible hood is a quality item that just need checking for rips and abrasion, but it’s worth noting that if the glass rear window is damaged the whole hood will need replacing.

Transmission

The manual gearboxes are robust unless abused - a six-speed item was standard from late-2002 - but it’s worth ensuring the clutch is healthy as replacement is quite involved.  The facelift also brought the option of the clutch-less Sequential Manual Transmission: it works well on the road but the Bosch electronics can play up and repairs can be costly, so manual is probably best.  A limited-slip differential was standard on all UK cars, and rarely gives trouble.

Suspension and steering

Suspension and steering components can suffer corrosion so examine them carefully, and if the handling isn’t pin-sharp then suspect suspension bushes in need of replacement.  The electric power steering pump isn’t immune from problems either, so be wary of notchiness or uneven assistance at the wheel.  Brakes are trouble-free and just need checking for wear or illumination of the ABS warning light, but the MR2 is tyre-sensitive so look for good quality items that match all round.  The alloy wheels can be prone to corrosion but aren’t expensive to refurbish.

OUR VERDICT

Boasting compact dimensions, sparkling performance, and terrific handling there’s very little not to like about this last generation of MR2.  A cared-for example will be reliable and inexpensive to run, and we’d advise going for a post-facelift example as it benefits from some useful upgrades.  Either way, though, you won’t be disappointed with what this terrific roadster has to offer.

BENTLEY MARK VI REVIEW

If you had a Bentley Mark VI that meant one thing: you had class. 

The MkVI Bentley arrived in May 1946, Rolls-Royce branching out by introducing standard bodywork but retaining the tradition of a separate chassis for their immediate post war models.

The standard steel bodywork was available at first only on the MkVI Bentley, with the equivalent Rolls-Royce Silver Dawn arriving in 1949, coachbuilt examples of course available for those that could afford the expense so soon after hostilities had ceased.

Few coachbuilders were able to significantly enhance the balanced lines of the standard coachwork however. Notable features were independent front suspension and hydraulic front brakes, while a new 4,257cc six-cylinder engine featured inlet over exhaust valve gear and manual transmission.