BMW

BMW E9 CSL REVIEW

The 3.0 CSL was BMW’s first truly sporting coupé to match looks with performance, style with desirability.

 


The timeless shape of the big BMW coupé was first seen as far back as 1965, with the 2-litre coupé by Karmann. It developed into the E9 chassis in 1968 and production continued until the final model rolled of the production line in 1975. By introducing a coupé in 1968, BMW signalled the intention to return to the luxury car market sector, an area it had been forced to ignore for years while it struggled to turn around its fortunes during the 1960s. Early cars ran on carburettors, until the adoption of Bosch fuel injection in the 3.0 CSi.

A turning point in BMW’s motor sport history was the introduction of the homologation special CSL, which stands for Coupé Sport Leicht. The new model offered little in the way of luxury equipment, weight saving being the order of the day. This was achieved by using thinner gauge steel in the construction of the body, along with an aluminium bonnet, boot and doors.

To qualify the car for racing in the Over 3-Litre division, the engine was rebored to give a capacity of 3003cc, which in road trim resulted in almost 200bhp. The CSL label only required the production of 1000 cars to make it eligible to race. It was developed by a separate division in BMW AG, which would go on to become BMW Motorsport GmbH. While the CSL does not carry the M badge, many unofficially consider this to be the first-ever ‘M’ car.  
The 3.0 CSL proved to be an astonishingly durable racer. Such was its longevity in international racing, it was on the grid every year from 1972 through to 1978. Even more impressively, after its success in 1973, 3.0 CSLs won the European Touring Car Championship every year between 1975-1979. By this time, the old warhorse was getting somewhat long in the tooth, meaning that it was finally put out to pasture.


Only 765 roadgoing LHD CSLs were built between 1972 and 1975, with just 500 RHDs produced in that time. Nearly all of the latter had additional equipment over the LHD, to help aid the driveability of the car on a daily basis. These optional extras were grouped and labelled the City Package, and included electric front and rear windows, power steering, interior bonnet release, chrome CSi front and rear bumpers, and a tool kit.


The rarity of both of these versions has ensured that they are much sought after today. Prices will rise in the future.
With Bosch D-Jetronic mechanical injection, you don’t need to worry about a choke when rousing the BMW 3.0 CSL. The engine starts keenly and pulls hard and sure, even from cold. Need a burst of acceleration? It’s accompanied by a metallic thrum that speaks of lusty refinement. There is a real tingle of competition in this car’s genes. And the way the CSL gets the job done can’t fail to impress.

Brawny yet sophisticated, it’s hard to imagine a more suitable steed in which to cross continents or rack up some heavy-duty mileage. A long-distance cruise down through Europe to the warmth of the Mediterranean would be right up the CSL’s street. Few cars you’ll drive have such a crisp and responsive engines – it seems to thrive on hard work, yet the airy cabin manages to be restful.
 

The suspension is equally inspiring. When driving over larger bumps or less than smooth roads, the CSL demonstrates an impressive ability to soak up undulations. The damping mostly makes an efficient job of preventing excessive pitch and float.


It’s game for some fun, too. When setting up for a long sweeping bend, the cornering characteristic of the CSL is predominantly one of stable, predictable understeer. Nothing too excessive but, at the same time, just enough to keep the nose from wandering off-line. Flicked through a tight turn in low gear, the big coupé will hang its tail out in a highly satisfying manner, like the true thoroughbred it is.


In between the two extremes, you can stimulate a nicely balanced, neutral style of handling. The slim steering wheel gives an impression of quicker steering reactions – you simply think it through a bend. The fitment of a limited slip differential is a worthy step, helping to improve traction significantly on slippery surfaces.

Naturally, in wet weather, it is much easier to get the rear wheels spinning, so a certain amount of sensitivity is required when moving off briskly or cornering under full power as both rear tyres spool up and launch the lightweight car forwards. Once it has warmed up, the ventilated disc brakes prove more than up to the task – you’ve got no bother hauling 1270kg of Beemer to a halt on demand and within a reasonable distance.
As a 3-litre coupé with elegant styling, refined running and decent acceleration, the CSL is difficult to match. It has delightful road presence which conspires to flatter any driver. Admiring glances come naturally and respect on the streets is guaranteed.

BMW M535I REVIEW

BMW's press pack maintained that the BMW E12 M535i set a new standard in understatement and that it offered the restrained dignity of a Savile Row suit.

What Car? magazine called it the ultimate boy-racer's car and about as retrained and dignified as a gold lace stage costume. At £13,745 new in 1981, it must have been intended for a rich boy racer! Developed by BMW's Motorsport subsidiary, this exclusive 140mph model combined performance, comfort and tractability in traffic, offering pure excitement. Its 3,453cc twin-cam power unit developed 218bhp at 5,200rpm and a sizeable 228lb ft of torque, 60mph coming up in 7.1 seconds and 100mph in 19.8 seconds. BMW's first M-pack offering, just 200 RHD examples were allocated in 1981.


In 1985 the E28 M535i arrived, offering 218bhp and an even more outrageous bodykit. There were some suspension tweaks over the 'normal' 535i, and a hefty price premium. The E28 has gone through the hooligan's banger stage and the few that have survived are now highly prized.

BMW 3-SERIES E30 REVIEW

The 3-Series E30 is the Swiss Army Knife of classic motoring: it fits right in at shows, tackles trackdays with gusto and takes on the daily commute with aplomb.

For many years the E30 has been the classic of choice for those with a more enthusiastic driving style, especially the 325i Sport models with their limited-slip diffs. 

E30s are hugely popular when it comes to amateur motorsport. One of the main reasons for this is that the rear-wheel drive/front engine format is perfect when it comes to learning how to control a car on a circuit. 1.6-litre, 1.8-litre and 2-litre cars all seem fairly pedestrian in the speed stakes, but all of them will be a barrel of laughs when pushed through the bends. The standard 325i offers the best bang for your buck, producing 169bhp out of the box. A 325i can be bought for as little as £1500. 

A decent E30 really is a joy to drive. The suspension is firm enough to hold the car when pushed hard, but soft enough to iron out the bumps on a longer cruise. Oversteer is easy to provoke, however many a decent driver has been caught out in the past, so be careful.  

 

VITAL STATISTICS

1986 BMW 325i

 

Engine                                    2494cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  169bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 167lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                138mph

0-60mph                                  7.2sec

Consumption                            26mpg 

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The car may look clean, but rot hides itself very well in E30s. Sills, scuttle and arches are the main problem areas. Feel around behind the front and rear arches for crustiness, especially if the car looks freshly undersealed. Inner wings will go behind the front wheel arch guard so open the bonnet and check for rust along the top edge of the inner wing. Front suspension turrets can rot from the base. Check for rust on the bulkhead by removing the fuse box. If you find rust here walk away. 

Open the boot and remove the jack. If there’srust here it will have made its way from the rear inner wheel arch. Also take a screwdriver and magnet to the sills. Lift the carpets in the boot and footwells. Rust here will be difficult to cure. Be wary of sunroofs too. Rot in the roof skin is terminal, so watch out for bubbling here. 

 

ENGINE

E30 engines are well known for their reliability, but only if well maintained. 

A fully documented service history is a must. The cambelt should be changed every 60,000 miles or at four year intervals. If this isn’t documented, budget to have it done as a matter of course. Start the engine from cold and listen for noisy tappets. If the sound continues when warm then they need to be adjusted. Valve clearances should also be set every 15,000 miles. Improperly adjusted valves can break rocker arms. 

Check oil and coolant levels. Look for signs of oil in the coolant and mayonnaise around the oil filler cap. Both could suggest head gasket failure. Carry out a compression test before buying. Allow the car to idle until warm listening for the fan to come on. If it doesn’t, then assume the car has overheated so warping the cylinder head. 

 

ELECTRICS

Check the engine bay. Make sure the colour matches the exterior of the car. Fresh paint may suggest the car has been in a crash, so make sure you ask all the right questions. Ensure you get a HPI check. Due to the low book value of E30s many crash-damaged vehicles are written-off as a result of what most would consider light damage. There are a lot of decent-looking cars on the road that have been registered as Cat C or Cat D. Beware. 

RUNNING GEAR

Check the rear subframe bushes for excessive wear. This will have an adverse effect on handling and can be very dangerous. It’s a hugely time consuming job and beyond the reach of the amateur. Listen for a whining noise and clunking from the diff. The mounts could be perished, but more than likely it’ll be a worn diff. Replacements are easy enough to come by, but limited-slip diffs will demand a heavy premium. Check for any excess play or vagueness when changing gear. Avoid high mileage cars that jump out of gear or have worn synchromesh. Look for four matching tyres with plenty of tread. Be wary of cheap tyres which can be dangerous. 


INTERIOR

Interiors are generally hard wearing, but will be past their best after 20+ years. Leather cracks over time and cloth seats will wear particularly badly on the driver’s bolster. Replacement seats are still relatively plentiful, but good quality items will command a premium, especially in leather. Switches give up the ghost with regularity, but are easily sourced and replaced. Odometers will die anytime beyond 100,000 miles as the worm gear deteriorates. Replacement gears are cheap, but fiddly to fit. Remove the card shelf from below the steering column. Any fluid dripping on this hints at a knackered clutch master cylinder. The slave should be replaced at the same time.

 

OUR VERDICT

The E30 is a superb car that has stood the test of time. Its styling still looks fresh while decent build quality and a growing following have ensured the survival of many cars. They also fit right in at classic shows, track days, or simply on the daily commute. Parts are cheap and plentiful and there are regular club events to attend. There really is an E30 to suit every budget, and both entry-level models and more powerful 2.5-litre cars can be affordable propositions. Many different models were produced over the eight-year production span, with varied and confusing spec sheets. Do your research to ensure you get the car to suit your needs, and don’t buy the first car you see. M3 aside, 318iS and 325i Sport models are the most desirable. 

Retro cars are all the rage at the moment and the E30 is the daddy of them all. Remarkably, its boxy styling has aged well. In fact, its perfect proportions have ensured that the 3-series E30 looks as fresh today as it did when it arrived in British showrooms back in 1983. 

As well as looks, the E30 has practicality in spades, which makes it a great choice if you’re in the market for a useable classic that will earn its keep. Spacious inside, the E30 will carry four adults in comfort and the cavernous boot is large enough to accommodate even the most enthusiastic of holiday packers. 

A hugely practical and stylish car then, but the icing on the cake must surely be the legendary reputation for reliability that BMWs of this era enjoy. A well-maintained E30 will be among the most reliable classic cars at any show, and will devour mile after mile on twisty B-roads, motorways and everything in between. It’s the ideal daily-driver and weekend show car.

BMW Z3 REVIEW

When the BMW Z3 made its debut in the Bond flick, GoldenEye, it became the must-have sports car of 1995/6. It wasn't hard to see why; stylish, brilliantly built and offering decent (if not Tarmac-tearing) performance, it was the roadster with everything. Now that the svelte soft-top is a classic, its appeal is arguably greater than ever, especially as you can buy one for less than the price of a decent MGB.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Excellent rustproofing on the production line (the Z3 was the first BMW to be built in the USA - at Greer in South Carolina) means significant corrosion shouldn't be an issue, and it helps that the front and rear bumpers are plastic.
Even the usual areas, such as the wheelarches, sills and floorpans, shouldn't be affected by corrosion, so if there are any rust bubbles, the car has either been neglected or repaired badly after a crash. Either way, such a car is best avoided.
Despite the Z3's affordability and the BMW roundel on its nose, it has tended not to appeal to hooligan drivers. Most examples are cherished, especially now that the car is a modern classic.
You still need to check for evidence of crash damage, though, such as rippled inner wings up front or a boot floor that's not quite straight.
Other areas that can corrode include the bodywork around the boot lock, the door mirror bases and the mounting points for the differential and rear subframe. As well as rust, the latter can also suffer from cracks if the car has been driven hard.
It's also worth checking the boot for evidence of water ingress. The boot seals can perish, and once water gets in it'll collect in each side of the boot floor.
The folding cloth roof is simplicity itself to use. An electro-hydraulic mechanism is common, but not universal. Problems are rare, both with the covering and its frame, but check the general condition and make sure it goes up and down smoothly. What can be an issue is damaged or perished seals around the side windows or along the header rail; if these leak, the interior will always be damp. Also inspect the plastic rear window, which can go opaque; there was no glass window option, but it's usually possible to revive what's there with a suitable plastic window polish. New roofs are rarely needed; with labour, replacing a hood typically costs upwards of £1500.
From 1998, there was an aluminium hard-top offered as an accessory. Costly when new and consequently rare, it makes the Z3 more usable in the winter, but the standard cloth roof is weatherproof and generally problem-free. Removing and refitting the hard-top is rather a faff.


ENGINES
The Z3 came with eight-valve four-cylinder (1.8 litre), 16-valve four-cylinder (1.9-litre) or 24-valve six-cylinder (2.0-, 2.2-, 2.5-, 2.8-, 3.0- and 3.2-litre) fuel-injected engines. All need to be run only on unleaded petrol and all will easily take 200,000 miles in their stride, if properly maintained.
While the six-cylinder engines provide more aural accompaniment and greater muscle, the four-pot units tend to be more reliable. European Z3s got an all-alloy straight-six, while US editions got a cast-iron block. Some early Euro powerplants featured Nikasil-coated liners that could be damaged by high-sulphur petrol, but any affected engines should already have been fixed under warranty. From September 1998, steel liners were fitted instead, eradicating the problem.
Six-cylinder engines also have a plastic water pump, which can struggle to cope, so look for evidence of the engine getting hot or having overheated. With the four-cylinder engines, problems are likely to be restricted to a faulty Lambda sensor. See if the engine management light illuminates, or check if it'll pass the MoT emissions test - it's a £180 fix. Other potential issues include a rattling timing chain (£500-£650 to fix) or a failed thermostat. The latter fails in the open position, so if the engine takes ages to get up to temperature, assume a new thermostat is needed - a specialist will charge £75-100 to fix it.


The M Roadster and Coupe came with an iron block, some of which suffered from sub-standard big end caps that could fail, taking out the engine with them. Any affected engines should have been fixed by now, though, probably under warranty.
The M Roadster and Coupe also featured VANOS variable valve timing and on early cars this can give problems. If it fails altogether it'll cost around £2500 to fix, so listen for grumbling from the engine when accelerating or on the over-run, along with hesitation or flat-spots.


TRANSMISSIONS
Aside from M editions, which had no two-pedal option, all Z3s came with a choice of Getrag five-speed manual or THM four-speed automatic gearboxes. There are no weak spots as such, but you still need to make the usual checks. Look for clutch slip by accelerating through the gears and seeing if the revs rise without the car gaining speed (fitting a new clutch costs £250). The dual-mass flywheel can fail - listen for a rattle when you start and stop the engine. A genuine BMW part costs over £800, but the same from LUK is under £300. Labour is around £500 and it's sensible to renew the clutch at the same time.
Also make sure the car doesn't jump out of top gear. If it does, a gearbox rebuild looms, although it'll be much cheaper to simply fit a decent used transmission. Expect to pay around £450 for labour.


STEERING & SUSPENSION
All Z3s have speed-sensitive hydraulic power steering, which makes the Z3 a delight to drive. It's a reliable system, although it's worth ensuring there are no leaks anywhere and that the gaiters and track rod ends are in good condition. Unsurprisingly, everything is available, and unless you need to fit a whole new power steering system (highly unlikely) there's nothing that should scare you financially.
Although road testers complained about the Z3's unsophisticated suspension when the car was new, the reality is that unless you thrash your classic at every opportunity, the standard set-up is unlikely to disappoint.; the M cars got a heavily revised system that's far more adept. While there are MacPherson struts up front, at the rear there are semi-trailing arms, coil springs and telescopic dampers, with anti-rollbars, with anti-roll bars at each end. Dampers can wear out, but more likely are worn rear shock absorber mounts, given away by rattling as the car is driven - expect to pay £85 per side to fix the problem.
Most Z3s are largely as they left the factory, but sometimes owners feel the need to lower or stiffen the suspension. Be wary of such cars as they're likely to be uncomfortable at best - and, at worst, may be suffering from cracks in the floorpan along with increased scuttle-shake.


WHEELS & BRAKES
All Z3s have alloy wheels, which can suffer from corrosion and kerbing. Refurbishment costs £75-£100 per wheel; for which you could buy some aftermarket rims instead, or Z4 wheels will go straight on. Z3s already sporting non-factory wheels with seriously low-profile tyres will have an unyielding ride, so beware. Also be wary of cheap Chinese wheels: they're becoming increasingly common and are poorly made.


TRIM & ELECTRICS
Most Z3s came with leather trim, but some have cloth. Both wear well, but check the condition of the outer edges of the seats, including where the seatbelt rubs.
The electrics aren't as complicated as you might think, but still more complex you might think, but still more complex than most older classics. You can expect reliability, although if the system has been played with (particularly with aftermarket stereo or security systems) there could be problems. Most likely to give trouble is the electric seat adjustment, but not all cars have this. Make sure you get two keys with your Z3. If you lose the sole key, you'll need to have everything reprogrammes, which will cost hundreds.

OUR VERDICT
The Z3 makes a great modern-classic buy, but if you go for an entry-level  model you might be left reeling a bit underwhelmed. While the four-cylinder engines are quick enough - and certainly when compared with more established classics - it's the six-pot cars that stand out. That straight-six soundtrack, the extra muscle and sublime smoothness are compelling, and with so many Z3s available and prices all over the place, the chances are that you'll be able to buy a worthwhile six-pot edition for the same money as many four-pots.
If you want something seriously unusual, track down one of the M Coupes offered from 1998. Even better to drive than the M Roadster, rarity keeps values high.
Whatever you buy, shop around, and do the same when it comes to maintenance; car and parts costs can vary wildly. There's an army of independent specialists out there who can slash the cost of running a Z3, and if you find the right outfit, you could easily enjoy the reliability, usability, safety and comfort of a modern roadster for a much smaller outlay than if you take the established classic sports car route.

BMW Z1 REVIEW

A reinvention of the sports car? Perhaps, but there's no doubt it's an instant classic.
The radically sleek shape of the BMW Z1 two-seater roadster immediately made an impact when revealed to the press in 1986. By the time the car was displayed at the Frankfurt Show the following year it had been further refined.

The first product to be designed and developed by BMW Tecknik GmbH, it was also the company’s first roadster since production of the 507 finished in 1959.
A major feature was the deep sills into which the retractable doors and side windows slid up and down. All Z1s were left-hand drive.
The Z stands for Zukunft, the German for future, and was subsequently continued with the Z3, Z4 and Z8.

VITAL STATISTICS
Engine     2494cc/6-cyl/OHC
Power      168bhp@5800rpm
Torque    161 lb ft@4300rpm
Top speed 137mph
0-60mph  8.0sec
Economy    24-28mpg
Gearbox   RWD, five-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK
The usual bodywork problems with corrosion don’t apply with the Z1 that made novel use of lightweight thermoplastic panels. However, panels can warp or bend and are liable to scratch, especially around the door areas. Check that panels are aligned properly and that the clips that hold them together are present. About 90% of the panels are readily available, but others you will have to wait for. Main areas to check for stress and wear are the rear wing (especially on the driver’s side), wing mounting points and wheel arch liners. Boots are prone to fill with water when seals degrade. The car is painted in a flexible lacquer finish while the hood is GRP. The area where the framework folds is a weak point on the soft top, so look for fraying, holes or patches.


ENGINE AND GEARBOX
Both the M20B25 engine and five-speed gearbox were sourced from the E30 325i and 325Ix and are generally reliable if well looked after. The 2.5-litre straight-six engine sits tilted at a 20-degree angle to facilitate the low hood-line. Well-maintained cars can reach high mileages without signs of wear and tear. Cambelts should be changed every 30,000 miles or every three years. Look out for tuned, uprated or even replacement engines. Also, right-hand drive conversion cars can have their problems. Exhausts suffer corrosion and a rear box will cost £1000+ to replace.


RUNNING GEAR
The chassis of the Z1 featured several innovative features including a flat, composite undertray, continuously zinc welded seams and a ground-effect system incorporating the transversely mounted rear silencer. The rear suspension Z Axle system was specifically designed for the Z1, but would subsequently see use on 1990s BMW Group cars. It is recommended that you get the suspension checked professionally to confirm its viability. Check the steering rack for signs of wear around the universal joint. Another Z1-only feature are the attractive seven-spoke 16in alloys.


INTERIOR
The Nubuck leather trim is easily scuffed, especially around the door/sill areas and is not an economical fix. Side panels can wear to expose the innards, while the seat area can wrinkle badly when the leather becomes separated from the foam base. An official UK car will be identified by the fact that the dials will read for gallons and mph.  The first 200 cars were fitted with a re-badged Sony radio known as the Z1 Audio System. Air conditioning was not fitted to the cars but conversions using E30 parts have sometimes been carried out. The three-spoke steering wheel is unique to the Z1 and incorporates improved grip. Boot and other storage space is limited.


ELECTRICS
The electric motorised doors operate via toothed belts that can break or slip out of adjustment. There are two different motors on each door, which may require attention. The electrically adjustable rear-view mirrors are mounted on the windscreen pillars, so check that they are aligned and work properly.  Original fisheye filament lighting will be very poor by present day standards and will need upgrading if not already carried out. Official French imports have yellow headlights rather than clear ones.
 

OUR VERDICT
Let’s face it, you don’t see one every day. And to see more than one would be an event. BMW sold just 77 of the 8000 Z1s built between 1989 and 1991 to the UK at prices that would have bought you a Porsche at the time. In more recent times, it became more affordable to import examples from Germany, but now some are going the other way. When it comes to exclusivity, they don’t come any better than this.

BMW M3 E36 REVIEW

The second BMW M3 was nothing like the initial cars which had borne the name. Instead of a four cylinder race derived hooligan, the new car – based upon the E36 – was a more refined, six cylinder range-topper derived from the 325iS. Critics claimed it was closer to a 6-series replacement than a true M3 – and to an extent they were right. But then, BMW never argued otherwise – it was a quick car that would appeal to everyone from the racer to the family man and business user.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine – 3201cc, 6-cyl, DOHC

Power - 321bhp@7400rpm

Torque - 258lb/ft@3250rpm

Top Speed – 155mph

0-60mph – 5.3seconds

Economy - 20 mpg

Gearbox – 5/6 speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The E36 M3 was available with most of the standard bodies; the saloon, coupe and convertible. There are no particular rust spots E36s are prone to, but it would be wise to check the whole car for any signs of corrosion. As with any other car, pay attention to the sills, door bottoms, wheelarches, and get it on a ramp if you can. With the best rustproofing in the world, a car will only be rust free if it has been done properly and has never needed a repair.

Engines

The three litre engine is based upon BMW’s M50 engine, also seen in the E36 325i and the E34 525i. It’s a 24 valve unit which develops almost 100bhp/litre, and utilises the VANOS iable cam timing system. The torque curve is not dissimilar to Ayres Rock, in that it is high and flat – and the dual mass flywheel contributes to the engine’s ability to rev to nearly 7300rpm. In 1996 the M3 was breathed on, and became known as the M3 Evolution. An extra 30bhp was found inside the engine, which had grown to 3.2 litres and surpassed the magical 100bhp/litre mark. Lambda sensors and oil pressure valves are known for going, and seals and gears within the VANOS cam timing mechanism are both prone to failure and a job best entrusted to a specialist. The M50 and all M50 derived engines are excellent in terms of reliability, and should pose no problems barring those mentioned above. As with any specialist car though, it needs to be cared for by specialists.

 

Running Gear

Not all the same as a standard E36. The springs are shorter and firmer, with firmer dampers and thicker anti roll bars. The gearbox is from the 5-series. Evolution cars use 850 driveshafts and wheelbearings, an E34 M5 limited slip differential, and uprated proprietary control arms. The rear shock absorber top mounts are a suspect point – lifting each rear corner of the car should highlight any issues there. Exhausts and tyres are expensive, so make sure they’re all as good as they can be before buying. Tyres with less than 3mm left can be used as bargaining counters.

Interior

M-Technic seats are the sole difference between the M3 and the rest of the range. This, of course, means that all number of E36s in scrapyards can yield interesting and useful bits of trim. There’s nothing particularly worth worrying about; most were leather and whilst the stuff isn’t cheap at least leather can be retrimmed well. They’re a nice place to be too; with space for 4 in comfort, a well laid out dash, and enough boot space for a touring holiday. This is where the E36 differs from the E30; it’s a GT car rather than a bit of a lunatic.

 

OUR VERDICT

The E36 M3 is one of the ultimate Q-cars. The Evolution models are blisteringly quick, and the pre-Evolution cars aren’t slow either. Yet with the exception of trained BMW spotters, few will ever notice the difference between an M-car and a standard 318i. Show the chavs who’s boss with an M3, and they won’t know what’s hit ‘em – and on top of this understated performance is the fact that they’ll take four and a decent amount of luggage. Is the M3 all things to all men? Quite possibly – and the E36 is on the cusp of classicdom to boot.

BMW 8-SERIES REVIEW

Think of the 8-series as the more stylish brother of the big '7' saloon and you won't be far off the mark. This was a grand tourer of the old school, designed to cocoon its occupants across continents at a high speed - what it wasn't was the direct successor to the 6-series, and that left a few buyers disappointed.


But with that in mind how does it drive? Well, very smoothly as befits a big BMW and there is decent performance on offer, although even the turbine-smooth V12 doesn't have the immediate punch you'd expect. The automatic gearbox feels like it's sapping power, and you're very much aware of the weight of the 8-series. But to be fair, it isn't what you'd call slow and there is an easy-rolling gait once you're up to speed.


Mind you that speed does reveal a slight deficiency in the braking department. Ultimate stopping power is fine if you really lean on the anchors but the initially soft pedal feel saps confidence when slowing from big speeds. Handling also feels compromised slightly on typical UK roads by the car's sheer girth. Absorbent ride makes this a fine cruiser. The steering is good too, it feels accurate and nicely weighted.


More impressive still is the wonderfully comfortable cabin, and while you might wonder where all those generous external dimensions have gone - the small rear seats are effectively unusable - there is no arguing with the luxury on offer.


With a driving position that's adjustable every-which-way and supportive leather-clad chairs, you'll get out after covering hundreds of miles feeling fresh and relaxed - and that really is what this car's all about. And you'll be able to spend those miles playing with the vast range of toys that come as standard. One thing it didn't lack was kit, so as well as all the usual layout-saving accoutrements you'll find items such as climate and cruise control, a superb sound system and an on-board computer stacked within the vast dashboard.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 8 Series

Engine                                    4398cc/V8-cyl/4OC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  286bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 310lb ft@ 3900rpm

Top speed                                155mph

0-60mph                                  6.8sec

Consumption                            20-22mpg 

Gearbox                                    5-spd automatic
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust can nibble at the edges of the E31, so check the wheelarches and sills for tell-tale bubbling. The sunroof area is another weak spot so watch for corrosion around its edges and the panel itself - if it's gone too far a whole new sunroof cassette could be required costing £1500 for the part alone. The plastic nosecone is susceptible to cracking after minor impacts, so check around the kidney grilles for damage or bodged repairs - a replacement is £500 plus painting and fitting costs.
With such an expanse of metalwork you'll need to check the panels for scuffs and dents as repairs won't be cheap. Ensure the pop-up headlamps are working properly and check that light units and exterior trim are undamaged as genuine replacements are very pricey. And it's not uncommon to find screens turning milky around the edges due to de-lamination, and with replacement costly it's often ignored.

 

ENGINE

Early M60 4.0-litre V8s suffered premature Nikasil cylinder bore wear but this will have been sorted by now - it's always good to check the history. The 4.4-litre M62 unit was fine and like the V12s is pretty much bullet-proof as long as it's not been neglected. Issues to watch for include oil leaks from cylinder head and timing covers; signs of head gasket problems; a cooling system past its best, leaking water pumps; and rough running or uneven idle caused by intake air leaks or problems with the VANOS variable valve timing system. V12s duplicated the electronics for each cylinder bank and ECU/sensor faults can be hard to trace.
The complex electronics are a problem, and battery drain can be a headache. Replacing the twin boot-mounted items will cost £250 and tracing the culprit can lead to spiralling labour costs; specialists recommend fitting a cut-off switch, but be wary is the car you're looking at has starting problems.

 

ELECTRICS

There's a gadget-packed cabin so check it all works before taking the plunge. The huge cost of replacing electronic items led many owners to ignore failures so beware. Dead pixels on the on-board computer display are common while a smell of coolant is likely to mean the heater matrix has failed, with replacement an expensive dash-out job. Failed air-conditioning condensers and corroded pipework aren't uncommon either.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were six-speed manuals or 4/5-speed autos depending on model, and while essentially robust the cost of replacement is eye-watering. Watch for excessive noise and obstructive shifts on the manual, and sluggish or jerky autos that could be in need of a rebuild after 100,000 miles or so. Both units will benefit from regular oil changes. Vibrations at sped are often caused by failing propshaft joints.

The hefty kerb weight results in these cars being heavy on suspension bushes, and the 8-series is also sensitive to proper wheel alignment - so check for uneven tyre wear or wandering at speed. The Electronically Controlled Damper (EDC) system on 850 models cost a hefty £900 a corner, so check them for leaks. The 850CSi also had rear-wheel steering, and replacing corroded hydraulic pipework means dropping the rear subframe, a big and very costly job.

 

BRAKES

Excessively vague recirculating ball steering is usually down to worn tie rod or idler arm bushes, both a relatively cheap fix. Brakes are something of an Achilles heel, so examine the state of discs and pads, and check for dash warning lights indicating failure of the ABS and DSC traction control system - diagnosis with a specialist is straightforward. The bigger alloy wheel options are prone to kerbing and corrosion, so budget accordingly.

 


INTERIOR

Watch for a sagging headlining and shabby leather.

 

OUR VERDICT

If you’re looking for a modern classic that’s capable of stress-free long-distance travel, an 8 Series is definitely one to consider. It’s not exactly family-friendly transport and is probably best thought of as a two-seater. It is certainly a head-turner, though, and quite rare these days – just under 2200 V8s reached the UK and only about 850 V12s.


Prices have dropped to pretty low levels lately, and an 8 Series can be something of a bargain. In a few years, we’ll see the rough ones disappear as they pass through the ‘expensive banger’ stage, while the good ones will begin appreciating again. So our advice would be to buy while you can and, as always, to get the best you can afford. On parts, BMW dealer prices can be very expensive, but your local motor factor can help more than you’d expect – and prices will be a very pleasant surprise.


The 8-series is a wonderfully luxurious mile-muncher and a very appealing car to drive, but it's also a potential money pit if you choose unwisely. The huge running costs meant many were neglected as the years rolled by and even shiny-looking examples can need bankrupting amounts of money spent. A good one will be a joy, but be very, very careful.

 

 

BMW Z8

The BMW E52 Z8 started out life as a concept car designed by Henrik Fisker, the Z07, which was unveiled at the Tokyo auto Show in 1997, two years before production began. The inspiration for the car is unashamedly BMW’s 1950s sweetheart, the 507. One of the company’s most beautiful cars, its spirit is well captured in the Z8. The design cues are clear; the front grille, long bonnet, rear lights, and especially the wing mounted side vents.

 

Unlike most concept cars the Z07 was always intended to go into production, so regulations were taken into account before sharpened charcoal even hit paper. As a result, the Z8 changed very little from the design that first amazed the world in Tokyo. The height and rake of the windscreen were altered slightly, and the stylised helmet fairing was also removed from the boot, a compromise to allow the power roof to operate unimpeded. Regrettably, a more conventional single-bubble roof also replaced the rather jazzy double-bubble hard top fitted to the concept car. Though originally a concept car, the Z8 is based firmly around tried and tested technology, most importantly the 4.9-litre V8 ‘S62’ lifted from the E39 M5, an engine hailed for its power, reliability and gorgeous V8 growl. Despite sharing an engine with the M5, it was decided that the existing chassis was too long, so a new all-aluminium design was created specifically for the Z8.

Produced from 1999-2003 and originally sold for £86,595, the BMW Z8 was always going to be a limited production model. Over the course of production 5703 cars were built, over half of which were sold in the United States, unsurprisingly, given that it was only ever offered in left-hand drive. What is surprising is that they have never suffered depreciation, a feat that all but the most limited edition sports cars could hope to match. With BMW holding a stockpile of parts intended to last 50 years there is no doubt that the Z8 will continue to rise in value, making it one of the most exciting classics of the future and a sure-fire investment.

Push the start button and the twin exhausts burst into a sonorous rhythm as the huge 4.9-litre V8 is awakened. In first gear the car is docile and smooth, feeling like a larger cousin – a 6 or 7 Series. Glancing around the cabin reveals this influence further. A myriad of toys is hidden beneath retracting panels dripping in brushed aluminium.

In second things get interesting; power arrives in a wave as the revs climb higher, a snap change to third, foot hard down and the car soars up to the national limit.

Your view of the onrushing road is unimpeded, the design of the dash enabling you a clear view of the road ahead and bulging bonnet, hinting at the power lurking beneath. Then you discover the ‘Sport’ button. Cruising at 4500 revs the car sounds alive with power; push ‘Sport’ and the acceleration hits like a brick through a stained glass window. It’s so fast you nearly get a fright, but the car’s perfect 50/50 weight distribution encourages confidence. It feels light on its pins, weight shifting quickly and sharply from side to side as it takes roundabouts and corners in its stride, all the while going faster and faster until you finally ease back.

The 394bhp does well to give the impression of lightness, but this doesn’t mean it feels flimsy. In truth, the car seems to be built to withstand a nuclear apocalypse. The doors are long and heavy, and when closed sound not just ‘like a Golf’, but like a Golf being dropped from a great height – onto another Golf. This build quality continues through the rest of the car; leather is suitably plush and switches and buttons all make the most satisfying of clicks and clunks.

1950s retro styling is continued to the cabin, most notable by a modern interpretation of a sprung ‘Bluemels’ Brooklands style steering wheel, though without the functionality of an original. This works in perfect harmony with contrasting clean and modern look prevalent in the rest of the cabin, coming together in an aesthetic fusion of vintage and modern styles.

BMW 2002 REVIEW

BMW became master of the sporting saloon with the BMW 2002. Here's why you want one... 

 

BMW has long been fond of dubbing its cars as ‘the ultimate driving machines’, and while that might be going a bit far with the 2002, it is undoubtedly a fine saloon. The front engine/rear-wheel drive layout delivers a good blend of ride and handling, even if the rear suspension demands a degree of respect in slippery conditions.

You enjoy all this from a superb cabin – the driving position is spot-on and there’s no arguing with the quality of the materials. Even 40 years ago, BMW had clearly mastered the art of solid construction and efficient interiors. There isn’t huge performance on offer in standard 2.0-litre form – the turbo delivers plenty of excitement for those after more pace – but the smooth power delivery makes for an effective mile-eater. As a relaxing long-distance tourer, the 2002 is well-nigh unbeatable.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 2002

Engine                                    1990cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  100bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 116lb ft@3000

Top speed                                107mph

0-60mph                                  12sec

Consumption                            23mpg 


 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Despite BMW’s reputation for quality maufacturing, corrosion is an issue with the 2002. Rust can nibble away at the door bottoms and the edges of both bonnet and boot, and you need to pay close attention to the sills. Blocked drain holes cause many of the problems, so take a good look at the point where the A-posts meet the sills and where the sills meet the rear wheelarches. The front wheelarches and inner wings are rot-spots, too, as is the area around the bulkhead. There are also several box sections around the radiator and headlamps that can harbour rust. 

The front chassis rails and jacking points can disintegrate, as can the floorpan of the cabin and boot. The spare wheel well corrodes and you will need to pay close attention to the chassis box section above the driveshafts. The potential for water leaks means Baur cabriolet models should come in for particular scrutiny. While many panels and repair sections are available, the cost of a major restoration can mount alarmingly.

 

ENGINE

Regular fluid and filter changes will enable most engines to cover big mileages before major attention is needed. However, there are a few issues to watch for, including oil leaks and coolant seeping from a failed water pump. Head gaskets can give up and a noisy valve-gear means a top-end overhaul is on the cards, while a smoky exhaust or rough-running is often down to either worn carburettor spindles or worn distributor bearings that put the ignition timing out. You need to be a bit more wary if you’re looking at an injected or turbocharged car – the Kugelfischer fuel-injection system is basically reliable, but it needs to be set up properly and the price of a set of injectors from BMW is nudging £2000, while replacing the KKK turbocharger is a similarly costly exercise. If you are in any doubt, it’s best to get a specialist to inspect the car.

 

ELECTRICS

The top-model 300SE and 300SEL had air suspension, which was high-tech stuff for the early 1960s. The ride it gives is quite remarkable, but problems can be very expensive indeed to fix, and parts are not plentiful. Buy an air-sprung Fintail with your eyes wide open, and have the phone numbers of a specialist and your bank manager close at hand.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Both manual and automatic gearboxes are reliable if treated to regular fluid changes, and a good test drive should reveal any untoward noises. Some owners have upgraded to the manual ’box from the E21 3-Series – a popular mod and not likely to cause any problems if done properly. Driveline vibrations can be caused by worn differential mountings or a propshaft centre bearing on its way out, but neither is especially tricky to sort.

As for the rest of the running gear, lack of use often results in seized or binding brakes, so ensure that everything feels healthy on the road. Replacement front calipers aren’t cheap, so budget accordingly if you think an overhaul is due. UK models were fitted with twin brake servos which should be replaced as a pair – you’re looking at £400 for refurbished units. Any play in the steering box can be adjusted out, but watch for cars where an owner has overdone it – ‘tight spots’ as you turn between locks means an overhaul or replacement is needed.

  

BRAKES

Apart from corrosion around mounting points, the suspension is unlikely to give trouble other than the usual wear and tear. As with the brakes, aftermarket upgrades are popular, so make sure you’re happy with the standard of the work. 


INTERIOR

Interior trim was good quality and hard-wearing when new, but age will have taken its toll. Seats were trimmed in vinyl or cloth depending on model, and it’s a case of assessing the overall condition. While some parts are getting scarce, many are available through the owners’ club or from BMW, so if the rest of the car is sound, revitalising a tired cabin is a realistic proposition – just don’t underestimate the cost of doing it properly. It’s worth checking the electrics are in order – poor earth connections are responsible for most issues.

 

OUR VERDICT

Spend any time with a 2002 and you’ll realise it’s an excellent sports saloon, but it’s not without foibles. Restoring a bad one won’t be cheap, so buy the best you can afford.

BMW M1 REVIEW

Timeless Styling, beautiful build quality, a comfortable interior, taut handling, flexible engine, sparkling performance and well-controlled ride made the BMW M1 one of the most usable and practical supercars you could buy - a role only repeated much later by the Honda NSX. This makes it all the more sad that most now rarely turn a wheel, being tucked away in static collections.


BMW Motorsport chief Jochen Neerpasch wanted to hit rivals Porsche where it hurt - a car that would beat the 911 in Group 4, Group5 and at Le Mans. He commissioned Lamborghini to build it, hoping to launch at the 1978 Geneva Show before racing at Le Mans.

Giorgetto Giugiaro of ItalDesign was told to style a car that shouted supercar and BMW at the same time: he succeeded. With build quality guaranteed, customer versions finished to a high level, including air conditioning. Infinitely more reliable than their Italian supercar rivals, there was no more stylish or comfortable way to travel at 160+ mph with 60mph in 5.5 seconds, impressive even today. Giugiaro's compact bodywork encompassed a multi-tubular spaceframe chassis, while a twin-cam, 24-valve 3,453cc version of BMW's classic straight-six engine driving via a five-speed ZF transaxle provided the power.

But Lamborghini was going broke, failed to meet targets and BMW had to pull the plug. Worse, FIA rules changed and the M1 was suddenly a homologation special without a race series.

Neerpasch negotiated with Max Moseley to run a one-make Procar series supporting F1 Grands Prix, with top F1 drivers at the wheel. Niki Lauda took the championship in 1979, while Nelson Piquet bagged the title in 1980.

456 examples were built, a minimum of 400 being required for homologation to the proposed 'Silhouette Formula'.

The series was canned after BMW's attention turned to Formula 1 engines with Brabbham, but terrific PR had resulted, even if the dream of beating the Porsche 911 had faded. But who would build the M1?

Marchesi of Modena made the spaceframe and suspension. ItalDesign in Turin clothed the chassis with ten glassfibre panels that were made by Transformazione Italiana Resina, bonding and riveting the panels to the chassis, painting them and fitting the glass.

The rolling shells went to Baur at Stuttgart to receive engines, transmissions and interiors, before BMW at Munich carried out fine-tuning and road testing. Not surprisingly, the finished product was very expensive - more than a Ferrari Boxer - though dealers were said to have discounted dramatically, especially to customers favoured by BMW.

VITAL STATISTICS
Engine Iron-block, alloy-head 3453cc M88/1, twin-overhead camshaft, 24-valve, six-cylinder with Kugelfischer-Bosch mechanical fuel injection and Marelli contactless electronic ignition
Power 277bhp@6500rpm
Torque 239lb ft@5000rpm
Top speed 162mph
0-60mph 5.5sec
Economy 15-22mpg
Gearbox ZF DS25 5-speed transaxle with dog-leg first, limited-slip differential
 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR


INFREQUENT USE
Infrequent use wreaks havoc with the race-oriented M1, the biggest issue being with the dry sump oil tank located to the right of the engine: long periods of standing allow condensation to form on its inner face (above the oil line), water and rust fall into the oil and when the engine is started, it is sucked into the bearings and seals with disastrous effect. If buying an M1 that has not been used for some time, and has not had the tank replaced, it would be foolhardy to start the engine without first replacing this tank. It is a complex structure with internal baffles, and the BMW price is extremely high.


SPACEFRAME ROT
The spaceframe can rot, and is difficult to inspect as it is mostly enveloped by the glassfibre panelwork: put it on a ramp and all that's visible is the full-width undertray - endoscopes and cameras are needed to inspect things properly.
Front bulkheads and the tubes along the sills are usually the first places to rust. Corrosion also hits around the engine bay, where the heat of the exhaust causes the powder coating to lift, leaving bare steel open to the elements. The steel door shells can also rot.


COOLANT AND BRAKE PIPES
The coolant and brake pipes run through the central steel tunnel inside the car, and these can corrode.
Again a camera/endoscope is needed to inspect these sections properly, and if attention is needed you must budget for engine and interior removal before any repair work begins.


ENGINE CONSIDERATIONS
Almost any engine is very expensive, not just because of the engine's high state of tune but also because of its inaccessibility.
The engine came from racing CSLs in the 1974 IMSA series, with a double-damped forged crank to rev past 7000rpm. It is mounted low but vertically between the seats and the rear transaxle. You have to strip the interior to get to the inspection hatch for the front of the engine, and for most jobs, even setting the valve clearances, you have to take the engine out.
Unlike other supercars, the M1's engine is robust and capable of high mileages if well maintained; it will need timing chains at c100,000 miles and if neglected will develop worn piston rings and gasket problems. Check the coolant for signs of cylinder head gasket leaks, which may also indicate a cracked cylinder head.
Oil leaks from the engine are common and if severe enough to warrant attention, once again the engine must be removed. Leaks may also come from the gearbox.  


BODYWORK
The glassfibre panels around the engine bay are fragile and often get broken, and are extremely expensive to reinstate accurately. Though made to a very high standard when new, the glassfibre bodywork is thin, as is its gelcoat, making it costly to restore successfully; cracks and crazing tend to occur around sharp corners such as the front 'boot' lid and pop-up headlamps.
Beware of cars where past resprays have rubbed through the gelcoat - get it in the right light and you will be able to see the glassfibre mat under the paint. Original paintwork was not high quality and runs were not uncommon.  


IGNITION MODULE
The Magnetti Marelli ignition module can be trouble on infrequently used cars, and those that have reached high mileages. Replacements are unobtainable; it's usually possible for the unit to be rebuilt, but the process is time-consuming and expensive.


CLUTCH ISSUES
The clutch generally has a short life, and is extremely expensive to replace; parts are generally very costly and specialists complain of long waits for items to arrive from Germany.


WHICH ONE?
1978: The M1 was unveiled at Paris in October, and on sale from february 1979. There were no changes during production of the 390 road M1s and interior trim was always black and grey (Recaro seats in leather with black/white dot cloth centres), os your choice is limited to road or racing, which exterior colour you prefer (or can find on the market - Verona Red and Black were the most popular), and European or Federalised (US) specification. All were left-hand drive, and all had German-language instrumentation (UPM instead of RPM) and controls.

Federal cars had their heater controls swapped for Engligh-language ones from the 320i. All had air conditioning, electric windows, heated rear window, foglights and a Becker Mexico radio-cassette. Low-milers can make £300,000.

A few personal-import M1s were turned to Federal spec by Automobile Compliance Inc of California in 1980. Energy-absorbing bumpers and side intrusion bars added 79kg; catalytic converters reduced power to 235bhp and torque to 243lb ft. Often modified, Federal cars are less sought after and sell for £100k-200k.

Racing M1s are more of a minefield because the high value of the 49 original Procar racers encourages owners of the 10 or so other racers to make theirs into Procar lookalikes. BMW built one Group 5 race prototype with a turbocharged 3.2-litre engine and c800bhp, but it was unable to race. March also built one, failing to qualify in Group 6 for Le Mans 1979, later modifying it for Group C. Schnitzer built a twin-turbo M1 with Kevlar body, but didn't race it; they also modified an M1 to run on natural gas, gave it better aerodynamics and took the gas-powered land speed record at 187.2mph. BMW did qualify one M1 for Le Mans 1979, painted by Andy Warhol - The M1 Art Car achieved sixth overall and second in class driven by Manfred Winkelhock, Herve Poulain and Marcel Mignol. The M1's other great race was the 1980 Nurburgring 1000km, when Hans Stuck and Nelson Piquet finished third.

Procar ran in 1979 and 1980, with five cars prepared by BMW for the top five F1 qualifiers (if their tyres allowed them to race on ProCar's Goodyear tyres) and 20 other run by independent teams. Niki Lauda won in 1979, Nelson Piquet in 1980. The Group 4 alloy-block race engines produced 470bhp at 9000rpm and 282lb ft at 7000rpm. Weighing 2215lb (1005kg), they could reach 62mph in 4.5sec and top 192mph. All had a big rear wing, add-on wide wheelarches and a deep front spoiler. Gearboxes came with oil cooler, a choice of ratios and uprated final drive, while extra-wide Campagnolo wheels in the same design as the road cars were fitted. Rose joints replaced rubber in the suspension, with special springs, dampers and anti-roll bars, quicker steering and no brake servo. Genuine Procars are worth around twice as much as the road cars.
 

BMW 5-SERIES E34 REVIEW

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.


There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to
V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds). These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved nearly a quarter of a century ago.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.
Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.
Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.
The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.
In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.
Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 
Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.

INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to
go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.
Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, 
so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?
Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.
One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

 

OUR VERDICT
The E34 5 Series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn’t bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won’t have any worries – although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.

BMW ISETTA REVIEW

The BMW Isetta makes the perfect car for those wanting a quirky classic with investment potential...

 

Just getting in is something of an event as you unlatch the big front door and watch the steering column swivel out of the way so you can squeeze onto the tiny bench seat. Once in there, is a surprising amount of room, even for tall drivers, and visibility is as excellent as you’d expect. The BMW engine buzzes into life with a turn of the dinky ignition key, and with first gear easy to find with the handily-placed lever it’s time to experience the full force of that 13bhp. And the Isetta proves to be surprisingly nippy off the line. 

You won’t set any speed records – with just three wheels it isn’t tempting to try – but it is easy to keep up with the flow of traffic. The short gearing makes the most of the available power. 

The steering is light and accurate too, and any fears of instability are soon dispelled after a few miles behind the wheel. Interestingly, left-hand drive models are considered better in this respect as the weight of the driver balances that of the engine which is mounted on the off-side. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS


BMW ISETTA

 

Engine                                    298cc/1-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  13bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 11lb ft@4600rpm

Top speed                                59mph

0-60mph                                  N/A

Consumption                            65mpg 

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The first thing to check for on any Isetta is corrosion. The dreaded tin worm can attack the wings and wheel arches, as well as the large front door. Repair panels are available but fitting them can be a fiddly job, despite the general simplicity of the car. Check the door hinges for wear and also the condition of the glass and its rubbers. A new front screen is around £260 from specialists, but refitting the sliding side windows can be a tricky task. Lastly, check the condition of the folding sunroof as this can crack and leak with age. Ensure it moves smoothly on its runners– it acts as the escape hatch should the front door be blocked so you’ll want to be sure it is working.

ENGINE

Engines were 250cc or 300cc, the latter BMW R27 motorcycle unit being the most common. The iron block/aluminium head unit is generally robust but there are a few things to watch for here. Cooling is by a fan driven by the Dynastart unit so make sure this is working and that the metal shroud around the engine is in place – overheating can occur if it is missing. That overheating can also lead to an inherent problem with these engines which is breakage of the two-piece valves which will ruin an engine. One-piece items are sensible upgrades. 

 

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox is a four-speed plus reverse unit and is generally reliable. Any difficulty in selecting gears can be due to perished rubber grommets in the linkage and these are cheap and easy to replace, so worth checking here first before assuming the worst. Drive to the single rear wheel is via a shaft from the gearbox and a duplex chain, and as long as the chain case oil levels are maintained shouldn’t give problems. A replacement chain is fairly cheap as are the rubber drive couplings which perish and break-up over time – a vibration at speed indicates these are in need of renewal.

The rest of the running gear is straightforward and trouble-free with regular maintenance. Replacing worn bushes or joints in the steering linkages is fairly cheap and straightforward, though it is worth checking for movement in the column itself as the support bush can wear. The drum brakes or suspension shouldn’t give problems though the cost of a thorough overhaul will soon add-up, so factor this in to the asking price if work is required. A conscientious previous owner should have kept on top of the regular greasing of items such as the kingpins and steering shaft so it is worth checking for signs of fresh grease.


INTERIOR

There is little to go wrong with the interior, so just check the overall condition. Ensure that the rubber cover over the battery is in place as this is mounted below the seat and a nasty shock will ensue if the seat springs make contact!

 

OUR VERDICT

If you’re after a classic car, and have a burning desire to buy something a bit different, then the Isetta bubble car will almost certainly fit the bill. Small, light and economical, this tiny BMW could have been made for today’s crowded roads and you’ll be guaranteed to draw a crowd when you park. 

The Isetta is mechanically simple and easy to look after; it consists of a lightweight steel body mated to a single-cylinder motorbike-derived engine. Over 160,000 examples were made in its 10-year production run and there are still plenty available today; they have a dedicated following too. Owning a bubble car really is a fun way to scratch that classic car itch without breaking the bank and there are fans all over the world as well as great club support. 

The Isetta is a tiny car with a huge personality and that more than makes up for any performance or handling deficiencies. Buy carefully and it could well be the most fun you’ve had behind the wheel for many a year.

Simplicity and ease of use are real pluses in the Isetta’s favour and the fun-factor is a bonus too. Despite the tiny dimensions you do need to buy carefully as the restoration costs will soon mount if you land yourself with a neglected example. Mechanical work is fairly straightforward so finding a rot-free example is the key.

 

BMW 3-SERIES E21 REVIEW

The BMW 3-Series E21 was produced from ’75 to ’83, although all but the entry-level variety stopped production in ’82. In that time, BMW built 1,370,000 of them.





The first 3 Series, or E21, was a two-door. Styling was by Paul Bracq, fresh from the first 5 Series, and the two cars had a strong resemblance. From 1977 to 1982, there were targa-top ‘Hardtop-Cabriolets’ by Stuttgart-based coachbuilder Baur, who built many BMW convertibles, but only about 3000 were sold.
The first engines were four-cylinders, with an injected 2-litre in the top-model 320i. Two years later came a 2-litre six-cylinder to make a new top-model 320 and, in 1978, a 2.3-litre six which created the highly desirable 323i. From ’80, the 316 went from 1.6 to 1.8 litres, and gained in the torque department. The UK otherwise didn’t get the 1.8-litre engine, nor the detuned 1.6-litre, run-out 315 model.
Suspension was by MacPherson struts at the front and semi-trailing arms at the rear, along with unassisted ZF rack and pinion steering. You got ventilated front discs with rear drums and a servo, but there were rear discs on the quickest 323i.

The first thing strikes you when you get behind the wheel is how the centre console is angled towards you. It gives the car a tight-fitting feel, like a pair of gloves – but the feeling isn’t one of being cramped.
There’s a certain sporting rasp about the four-cylinder engines which doesn’t translate into as much urge as you’d expect. Even so, the later 1.8-litre 316 accelerates pretty well. The sixes are a totally different experience: smooth and keen to get on with the job, they are really great engines of their time.
The Achilles’ heel of these small BMWs was always what Motor magazine called "snap oversteer". It’s nothing to worry about, but the semi-trailing arm rear suspension is subject to sudden camber changes on the limit – if you discover this on a wet road, you could lose the car. It’s not helped by a wooden feel to the steering at high speeds. Otherwise, the handling is little short of admirable for a mid-1970s saloon.
Early cars mostly have four-speed ’boxes. From ’79, there was a five-speed with overdrive top, and a close-ratio five-speed that was rarely specified. There were autos too, but these were disappointing.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1766cc/4-cyl/SOHC 

Power90bhp@5500rpm 

Torque103lb ft@4000rpm

Top Speed101mph

0-60mph12.4sec

ECONOMY34mpg

Gearbox4-speed manual

MoT11 months

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

1    One reason why this best-seller is pretty uncommon these days is corrosion. The cars were not undersealed at the factory, and only fastidious owners paid extra to have the job done when the cars were new. They rust – and how! – so your first check should be for the more obvious signs. Look at the rear wheelarches, front wings, door bottoms and sills, and the rear valance under the bumper. Rust gets hold at the front corner under the side windows, and under the rear windows, too.

2    Having checked all the usual rot spots, now turn your attention to the less obvious places. Carefully check the seams of the bonnet and boot, the corners of the main floor, the boot floor, around the jacking points and around the rear suspension towers. Springs have been known to punch through. No rust? You’ve found a good one.
3    On the gearbox front, don’t worry about some whining from the lower gears. That’s normal. However, the clutch hydraulics are prone to leaks, so it’s wise to check for fluid on the carpet and on the foot pedals. If the car’s an automatic, make sure the changes are smooth. Surges and lurches suggest worn friction components in the clutches, so if other things are urging you to buy the car, budget for a replacement gearbox.

4    The original Solex carbs often gave trouble, and many owners replaced them with Webers. The problem was particularly acute on six-cylinder cars with the 4A1 carburettor – although that might be because owners expected more from their engines than the four-cylinder models. The fuel injection is a Bosch K-Jetronic, which is a mechanical system and not too hard to diagnose and fix if it plays up. 

5    On four-cylinder engines, listen for top-end noise. Water pumps usually last for 70,000 miles, and you’ll hear one that’s on the way out. Cam chains wear, too, and you’ll hear that warning ringing sound. Poor performance could be caused by worn cam lobes, which is a common fault on high-mileage engines.

6    Six-cylinder engines, especially in the 323i, were often thrashed. The 323i in particular has a reputation for cracking its cylinderhead, so make the usual checks for water in the oil or otherwise unexplained water loss. Sixes also had a belt-driven overhead camshaft. This isn’t particularly troublesome, but check when it was last changed.

7    If there are odd noises from the front suspension, suspect the anti-roll bar buses – they tend to shear after hard use. If the steering feels notchy, then you’d better look at the steering rack.

8    The braking system doesn’t give a lot of trouble, but it’s worth checking the remote linkage to the servo. The servo was always on the left, even on RHD cars, and the linkage can corrode. The 323i models had rear discs (all the others had drums), and on a car which hasn’t been used for a long time you’ll probably find that these have rusted very badly. 

9    With the Baur Hardtop-Cabriolets, check that all the roof components are present. There should be a removable section over the front seats and a collapsible fabric section at the rear. Check the integrity of the rear window, and double-check the seals and clamps. If the vinyl pillar trim has been damaged, so budget for professional replacement.

10 Options you can add from scrappers are Mahle multi-spoke alloys, a limited-slip diff, sports suspension and Recaro seats.

OUR VERDICT

An E21 3 Series may not be the most glamorous of 1970s saloons, but it makes a great starter classic. It’s affordable both to buy and run, and will cope easily with modern traffic. However, it’s very important to buy the very best, because current prices don’t justify expensive repairs. A full-scale restoration would have to be a labour of love.
The four-cylinder 316 was the best-seller, followed by the six-cylinder 320, so these are the models that will be most readily available. It’s certainly worth going for the post-September 1979 316 if you can find one, because the 1.8-litre engine gives more torque and is correspondingly more flexible, although power and top speed are the same as with the older 1.6-litre engine.
As a 323i isn’t quick by modern standards, we’d go for a six-cylinder 320 which hasn’t been treated as a boy-racer’s delight.

BMW 628CSI REVIEW

In a nutshell? The BMW 628CSI belongs in your classic car garage... 

 

Karmann-styled like the preceding BMW 3.0CS/CSi/CSL, the new 600-series coupes debuted in 1976, featuring all-independent suspension, four-wheel disc brakes and power steering as standard. Automatic, and in 2.8-litre 184 bhp form, 60mph came up in just 8.5 seconds with 130mph top speed.

 

BMW M5 E34 REVIEW

If you’re a fan of discreet performance, few cars are up to the job as well as this beautifully built muscle car – a true gamechanger...

 

Today, the BMW M5 is an all-time great and still very much on the up – but in 2004, it was still possible to pick up a usable example for £2000. How far it had come from when it was new, when CAR magazine pitched a BMW E34 M5 against a Ferarri Testarossa in 1990. Then, it was moved to write: ‘The BMW is more practical, more comfortable, handles better, and is faster on the majority of public roads.’ When Georg Kacher drove a BMW E34 M5 3.8 for the same publication in 1992, he wrote: ‘The M5 is as much fun to drive as a proper sports car, and makes distances shrink like a time-lapse machine.’

The E34 M5 was the last of the six-cylinder M5s, and to connoisseurs, it’s arguably the best of these amazing super-saloons. It was the E34’s predecessor, the E28, which had created the template for the modern-day performance carry-all. Both cars were powered by engines based on the same straight-six seen in the M1; in the E34 it displaced 3535cc and there was 315bhp and 266lb ft of torque on tap, enabling the M5 to get to 0-60mph in 6.3 seconds.

The car seemed pretty much perfect, but BMW made things even better with the 3.8-litre M5 in 1992. This featured a 3795cc engine with an upgraded engine management system, plus revised Boge suspension (dubbed Adaptive M Technic) From September 1992 there was improved safety and security, then the final flourish came in May 1994 with a six-speed gearbox. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine   3795cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power    340bhp@6900rpm

Torque   295lb ft@4750rpm

Maximum speed    155mph (limited)

0-60mph  5.4sec

Fuel Consumption   22-30mpg

Transmission  Five/six-speed manual

Height   4ft 7in (1.39m)

Width     5ft 9in (1.75m)

Length   15ft 6in (4.72m)

Wheelbase   9ft 1in (2.76m)

Weight3682lb (1679kg)

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Look for rust at the base of the windscreen, in the rear wheelarches and along the edges of the bootlid. The plastic sill skirt covers can hide rusty inner and outer sill panels, jacking points plus the bottom of the front wings and A-posts. Also check the petrol flap aperture. Poorly repaired crash damage is common too; it’s easy to get an M5 out of shape on slippery roads.

Engine

 

That straight-six will clock up 200,000 miles if looked after. If the original coolant hoses are still fitted, it’s worth renewing them as a matter of course. Other cooling issues that can arise include leaky water pumps plus failed thermostats and viscous couplings. The 3.8-litre engine can suffer pistonor conrod failure on a poorly maintained car. 

Transmission

It’s pretty much unknown for a rear axle to fail, but check for leaks, with all cars getting a limited-slip diff as standard. The clutch should feel really light. If it doesn’t, get it changed. Both five- and six-speed gearboxes are strong, but listen for clattery bearings when the car is idling, with your foot off the clutch pedal. If a rebuild is needed it’ll set you back around £1200.Replacing oils seals costs around £200.

Exhaust

This isn’t made of stainless steel but it is reasonably long-lived. Because it’s double-skinned it can look tired on the outside but still be in good condition; the key is to listen for noisy baffles, which indicate a new set of pipes will be needed soon. Replacements are costly at £1200 – also make sure that the catalytic converter isn’t damaged by putting the car through an MoT.

Dampers

Listen for pattering over bumps, which indicates worn dampers; front replacements cost around £180 per corner for 3.6-litre cars, with the self-levelling rears pitched at about £600 per side. The 3.8 has Electronic Damping Control (EDC) for which some parts are now unavailable; they were last listed at £1000 per corner, so check for leaks and corroded pipes. Swapping the SLS or EDC suspension for conventional Bilstein dampers is common, which in improves the handling, especially on 3.6-litre cars.

Bushes and joints

Wear on the inner edges of the front tyres indicates worn ball joints. If the centre section of the rear tyres has worn, the rear subframe bushes probably need to be replaced; they typically last around 100,000 miles. Replacement wishbones cost £250 per side while rear suspension bushes are £78 per side (both are plus fitting). Vague steering might be worn track rod ends wear too (a pair of new ones costs around £250) or a tired steering box. The latter can be adjusted but the box is unique to the M5 so one from a lesser 5-series will have a different ratio.

Interior

Some M5s came with cloth interior trim while others got leather. Extended leather was a less common but much more expensive option which meant pretty much everything was covered with nappa hide except for the headlining. Whatever is fitted it should last well; there was a choice of light or dark grey, with the former getting grubby rather easily. 

Electrics

All M5s got air-con so check it works as it should because compressors and condensers fail and if everything needs doing the bill can easily add up to £1000. Most front seats have electric adjustment; check everything works properly. If there are electrical faults, first check the wiring loom where it passes through the boot hinge. Chafing here can lead to exposed wires then an array of weird electrical issues.

OUR VERDICT

The M5 is still a performance car bargain. No other car offers this level of grunt, usability, build quality and dynamic prowess for the money. Shame they don’t cost the same now as they did back in 2004!

BMW M3 (E30) REVIEW

Highly sought after, the M3 is a motorsport legend but you need to buy the best.

 

With modern hot hatchbacks producing in excess of 300bhp, two thirds of that isn’t really enough is it? 

Well, that’s where you’d be wrong as the original M3 was one of the finest sports saloons of its day, and feels just as wonderful now.  While BMW have become synonymous with silky straight-six engines, the 2.3-litre, 4-cylinder unit beneath the M3’s bonnet was a cracker producing 200bhp in original, non-catalysed form.  That power arrived at a fizzing 6750rpm, and getting there was to experience a mechanical symphony that sets the hairs on the back of your neck standing.  And thanks to a light weight by today’s standards it still feels quick with the 0-60mph benchmark dispatched in less than seven seconds. 

Driving through a motorsport-inspired dog-leg gearbox, it was also very easy to live with and a well-sorted example feels as happy pottering to the supermarket as it does lapping Silverstone.  But despite the every-day docility, using it that way would be to miss out on one of this car’s finest attributes.  Unencumbered by electronic safety nets, the purity of the driving experience is nothing short of breathtaking.  It steers with amazing precision, the nose tucking into the apex of a corner with just a flick of the meatily-weighted steering and ensconced in the supportive Recaro seat there’s a feeling of superb balance and adjustability.  Powerful E30 variants could be tricky to say the least, especially in poor weather, but the M3 is a world away from the tail-happy six-cylinder cars.  Thank the heavily-revised but still supple suspension for that, but it’s a revelation all the same.  Such delicacy is certainly a far cry from today’s stiffly-suspended performance cars that are tuned for setting records around the Nurburgring. 

The M3 is no less fine inside, where it boasts BMW’s legendary clarity and ergonomics.  There were a few sporting touches, but otherwise it was standard E30 and none the worse for that.  With a spot-on driving position and driver-focused dashboard layout it all feels as special now as it did almost thirty years ago.  As a sports saloon, it’s simply epic.        

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine           2302cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            195bhp@6750rpm

Torque          169lb ft@4750rpm

Top speed     143mph

0-60mph       6.7secs

Economy       28mpg

Gearbox         5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Put it to the panel

Only the bonnet, roof, and doors were shared with the regular E30 so it’s important to ensure that M3-specific panels are undamaged.  The lighter, stiffer shell can be prone to stress cracks if it’s been pounded over circuit kerbs or been upgraded with stiffer suspension so get it on a ramp to check.  And make sure you examine the suspension turrets, front chassis legs, and boot floor for evidence of cracks or accident damage.

 

Spot that rot

Rust resistance isn’t an E30 strong point and hidden corrosion is becoming an issue on the M3.  It can affect the jacking points and inner wings, and you must get a good look behind the sill covers as they can hide serious rot.  Rust can also attack the wings and rear wheel arches, the battery box, the areas surrounding the bonded screens, and in the boot around the lights.  And pay special attention to the scuttle; repairing it isn’t especially difficult or costly, but while the panel itself is cheap it contains the chassis number so has to be specially ordered from BMW and it can take time.  Many examples had a sunroof fitted and serious corrosion here will be expensive to remedy if the sunroof cassette needs to be removed: examine the metalwork and runners thoroughly.

 

Watch for leaks

The cooling system is an Achilles’ Heel, so check the radiator condition and operation of the fan thermostat.  Evidence of previous overheating should be treated with caution as it could have harmed the head gasket.  Oil leaks from around the sump aren’t uncommon, while a loud rattle on start-up indicates a worn timing chain or tensioner.  Opinions differ here, with some specialists recommending the renewal of all parts at around 100,000 miles as a precaution, but it shouldn’t be necessary on a well-maintained example.  A complete engine re-build costs five figures so excessive exhaust smoke and low oil pressure is bad news, and watch for rough running caused by induction air leaks, or faulty Bosch Motronic engine management. 

 

Show me the light

Skipped servicing and clocking are further concerns, so check the service lights on the dashboard are working and pay very close attention to the history.  Transmission-wise, the dog-leg Getrag gearbox is a weak point, so check for whining bearings or noisy synchromesh.  You’ll need to allow around £2000 for a specialist re-build.  Hard use can lead to a noisy limited-slip differential, and while failure is rare, a replacement is expensive.  Oil leaks from the ‘box and diff aren’t uncommon either.

 

Suspension surveillance

The standard suspension rarely gives major problems, so just watch for broken springs, tired dampers, and rattling anti-roll bar links.  As upgraded cars are returned to original specification, sourcing some parts such as springs can be tricky so check availability before undertaking work.  It’s also worth checking the condition of the rear subframe bushes, and the subframes themselves as cracks can appear in hard-used examples.  The brakes are more than up to the task, though, so just ensure that the ABS is operating correctly as it’s a pricey fix.  And check the condition of the BBS wheels as finding new ones isn’t easy.

 

The inside story

The interior is effectively standard E30, so watch for shabbiness and signs of water ingress via the bulkhead grommets and sunroof drains.  Seat frames can crack, while threadbare seat bolsters will need the services of a professional trimmer.  Some trim parts are getting hard to source, too, so ensure the dashboard, door cards, and switchgear are undamaged.  Failure of the instrument’s printed circuit board (PCB) is a common E30 issue, and costs around £700 to put right; ensure that dials and warning lights are all working.  Indeed, check all electrical items as remedying problems can be frustrating and costly.

 

Drop top checks

If you’re considering one of the rare convertibles check the operation of the electric hood and ensure that damp hasn’t been getting in.  And all M3s were left-hand drive, and while conversions were carried out a specialist check is highly recommended.

 

OUR VERDICT

Owning and driving an M3 is a wonderful experience, but buying one is not without pitfalls.  Prices weren’t always so strong, so abused and badly modified examples are out there and need avoiding like the proverbial plague.  Get it right, though, and the peerless handling of this exquisite sports saloon will entertain like nothing else.  It’s special indeed.

BMW 6-SERIES (E24) REVIEW

This big coupé has style, but what’s it like under the skin?

 

 

The shark-nosed 6-Series looks good from the outside, but it’s pretty impressive inside too. The cabin is truly luxurious, the dashboard is well-stocked with instruments, and build quality is superb. There’s a sportingly low-slung driving position and ergonomics are first-rate, all the controls falling perfectly to hand. If you’re in the mood to relax, the ‘6’ can play the comfortable and refined grand tourer and it’ll cover miles with ease. But a prod of the organ-type throttle pedal will unleash impressive performance. The M635 is a bona fide supercar, too, though care is needed in the wet as tail-slides are never far away.

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 6-Series (E24)

Engine                                    3453cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  286bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 251lb ft @4500

Top speed                                156mph

0-60mph                                  6.1sec

Consumption                           18mpg

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is a big enemy of the 6-Series, and signs of corrosion in the usual spots – rear arches, sills, and door bottoms – are likely to be the tip of the iceberg. The same applies to the front wings, which need particular scrutiny around the indicators and the lower rear section ahead of the sill, while inner wing seams can rot around the battery tray. With the wings alone costing £600 each, replacing both is a costly exercise and removal may be the only way of gauging the full extent of any problem.

Leaky rear light seals allow rust to develop in the boot, while water collecting around the rear spoiler and then dripping inside isn’t uncommon. Blocked drain holes can lead to corrosion around the sunroof opening and it pays to check for rot around the fuel tank and filler neck too. Get a good look underneath as corroded jacking points are a known issue – if these and the sills are bad, they can take the floor with them.

 

ENGINE

All models (bar the M635CSi) got a single cam ‘M30’ engine in various capacities. They’ll cover big miles before major attention is required but need looking after. Camshaft and rocker wear is caused by a clogged oil spray bar in the head, starving the cams of oil; ticking from cold is the giveaway. A perfect cooling system is vital, as overheating will quickly warp the alloy head, so check for a blocked radiator and ragged hoses and ensure the viscous-coupled fan kicks-in promptly.  

The M635 engine (dubbed ‘M88’) was was a wet-sump derivative of the straight-six used in the M1 supercar and was a DOHC unit with 24 valves. A rebuild isn’t cheap, so fastidious maintenance is the key, with a history that includes cam chain replacement. BMW fitted a single row chain rather than the duplex arrangement on other models and it’s prone to breakage. It must be changed at 100,000 miles without fail.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes were fouror five-speed manual or three- or four-speed auto, depending on age and model. All are generally tough, but make sure you try the later four-speed auto in all of its selectable drive modes. The manual-only M635 got a dog-leg Getrag unit which is hugely expensive to replace, so be wary of obstructive or crunchy gearshifts. 

 

BRAKES

It’s a heavy car, so check the brakes and suspension for wear and tear. Early high-pressure braking system cars used ATF rather than brake fluid, shared with the power steering. Annual fluid changes are recommended while a hard pedal or lack of response points to the accumulator (or ‘brake bomb’ as it was known) failing. Later cars reverted to normal brake fluid. The steering box mount can crack where it attaches to the chassis crossmember, so ask the vendor about any remedial work, and watch for corrosion at the rear subframe mounts. The Michelin ‘TRX’ tyres fitted to most models are an unusual metric size and therefore tricky to find and costly to buy. Aftermarket Alpina replacements are popular. The correct type point to a careful owner. Cracked exhaust manifolds, leaks from fuel injector pipes and rough running caused by engine management issues need watching for.


INTERIOR

Plenty of equipment and high-quality materials featured in the 6-Series, so check condition carefully. The genuine leather trim is expensive and you’ll need to ensure all the electrical toys are functioning properly. Electric seat motors can give up the ghost, while slow electric windows are often caused by hard grease from lack of use. 

 

OUR VERDICT

The 6-Series is a car that delivers looks and quality in spades, and that makes it seriously appealing in our eyes.Rot is a real concern though and it won’t necessarily be cheap to run, so you’ll want to find one that’s been pampered. But with this much style and performance on offer, it’ll be worth the effort.

BMW 5-SERIES E28 REVIEW

A stylish, practical cruiser that's getting increasingly rare...

 

The BMW E28 5 Series entered production in 1981 and continued for a further six years until December 1987, during which time over 720,000 cars were built. The entry level 518 was the only car in the range to feature a carburettored engine, and only then until 1984, whereas the rest sported both Motronic and Jetronic fuel injected units. The E28 replaced the aging E12, which had been in service since 1972 and had begun to look dated. Unlike its more basic predecessor, the E28 featured all mod cons including power windows, power seats and even a trip computer. As well as the range of standard cars, hot versions were added in the form of M5 and M535i.  

VITAL STATISTICS

E28 520i 1981

Engine                                    1991cc/DOHC/Inline 6

Power (bhp@rpm)                  123bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 125ft lb@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  9.7sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The most important issue affecting the E28 is rust. After spending more than 20 years exposed to the British weather, many cars will now be suffering the effect of tinworm. The low value of many cars means it isn’t cost effective to continue to repair bodywork, so owners tend to adopt a ‘run it til it pops’ mentality. With this in mind, get the cleanest car you find. 

Use a magnet to check for filler behind the front and rear arches and sills. If you don’t have a magnet, use your eye – unless professionally done you should be able to spot bodged touch-ups. Sunroofs are prone to rust as water collects in the recesses, so give this area close scrutiny. Doors will also rust given time, so open them and closely inspect the bottom edge. 

Anywhere there are drainage holes there may be rust, and there’s no substitute for getting close and taking your time – you don’t want to be surprised when you get home. Open the boot and lift the rear carpet; pay particular attention to the rear shock mounts as these have a tendency to fail. Also, remove the spare tyre and check the floor beneath. Check the windscreen window seals for signs of cracking or shrinking, as well as rear light seals; if these leak, water will pour directly into the boot.  

 

ENGINE

 

Engines fitted to the E28 were mostly carried over from the E12, so it should be seen as more of a facelift than complete redesign. The M20 engine was fitted to the 520i and 525i, with the M30 being used for the 528i, 535i and M535i. Both variants are legendary in the motoring world as being almost indestructible, providing they are well cared for. All engines will require valve adjustments every 15,000 miles, but this can be done with little trouble by the home mechanic. Check the engine oil level to make sure it’s not too low. Be wary if the oil is either too dirty or too clean, both are signs that poor maintenance is being disguised. 

Start the engine from cold and allow it to warm up, check that the temperature levels-off nicely and that no blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust pipe. Injectors can be noisy on startup; this is normal. 20w/50 oil should be used, nothing thinner. Timing belts should be replaced every five years or 60,000 miles, so make sure this is done. If the water pump has never been replaced, budget for the work and get it done immediately. 

If you’re looking at an M5 then a different set of rules apply. The M5 uses the M88/3 engine, which is an altogether more complex beast than the M30 with much lower tolerances than the smaller engines. Pay to get the car properly inspected by a BMW independent specialist. Any problems with the M88/3 engine will be astronomical to repair, and most problems will be immediately apparent to a specialist.

 

RUNNING GEAR

As with the rest of the car the running gear is fairly solid, but it will be wearing out by now. It’s important that you take the car for a test drive through a variety of driving conditions so any problems become apparent. CV joints are a weak point but are cheap enough to replace, a good DIY job if you have the know-how. Rear subframe mounts will probably need replacing as well, but this is a garage job. Gearboxes have a reputation for durability, but parts to repair them are getting increasingly scarce.

Early cars use the ZF 3HP22 automatic gearbox, which is bombproof. Manual transmissions are as hard wearing as engines, so should be able to achieve the same astronomical mileages.  


INTERIOR

E28 electrics are more reliable than their contemporaries, but by now will be starting to suffer. If the power windows don’t work the first place to look is the switches. Muck and grime build up and interfere with the contacts, so this can often be sorted with 20 minutes. ECUs can fail if soldering breaks down, which is a garage job. On the other hand, power seats are known to fail and are a DIY job.

 Interiors are of high quality and are hard wearing, but in high mileage cars will be on the way out. Don’t be put off by grubby seats; it’s amazing what a bit of leather cleaner can do. As always, the M5 is a different story. M5 leather interiors are rare and pricey. The seat frames also have a tendency to crack, while with textile seats make sure there is no significant wear to the bolsters. Check that the dashboard isn’t cracked, as a replacement will be hard to find and costly to fit.

 

OUR VERDICT

They’re cheap to buy and almost as cheap to maintain if you’re on a budget. Clean low spec examples are still easy to find, and most have been cosseted by elderly owners. Low mileage mint cars come up with surprising regularity, but most are snapped-up quickly by dealers looking to charge silly sums. It pays to buy the best example you can afford, as it’s easy to sink a small fortune into correcting bodywork. They’re becoming increasingly rare in scrap yards. You can’t go far wrong with any but make sure you pay for a proper inspection if you’re looking at an M5.

And don’t forget that all parts are available through BMW Park Lane Classic as well as through specialists. 

BMW E34 5-SERIES REVIEW

Quick, solid and reliable, BMW’s E34 5 Series was a stunning statement of the German car maker’s abilities. It’s a vehicle that was coveted worldwide during the 1990s...
 

BMW’s third generation 5 Series was the E34, in production from 1988 to 1995. Though earlier BMWs suffered from dubious reliability, this one was a cracker. It was also a very neat design, which worked superbly as either a saloon or ‘Touring’ estate.

There was no shortage of options for this model, which opened with the four-cylinder 518i (it means 1.8-litre injection), went on through small-block sixes (520i and 525i) to big-block sixes (530i, 535i), all the way up to V8s (later 530i, 540i). There were also some
damn good six-cylinder turbodiesels (525td and intercooled 525tds).

These were practical everyday saloons that were also entertaining to drive in bigger-engined form. Buy one now and marvel at what BMW achieved.  

VITAL STATISTICS

BMW 535i

Engine                                    3430cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  211bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 220lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                139mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed automatic

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

There’s not much that goes wrong with an E34’s bodywork, although you will probably find stonechips around the nose. If they have already rusted, the car hasn’t been looked
after carefully. Blocked drain holes allow water to collect in the door bottoms, and eventually this becomes a problem.

Otherwise, rust is practically non-existent. If you do find some, suspect an accident repair done on the cheap. There are plenty of E34s around, so avoid any seriously rusty examples, except maybe as a source of spares.

Peculiar to Britain were the 525i Sport models, with an M Technic bodykit of sills, spoilers and aprons (along with lowered suspension, sports seats, and other extras). These were attractively priced, and were often bought by people who wanted a bigger-engined E34 but couldn’t afford it. Lots of them were used very hard, so take appropriate caution when viewing one.

ENGINE

Engines were always BMW’s great strength, but we’d recommend a six or a V8. Interesting cars start with the 525i and upwards. All engines (even the diesels) are astonishingly smooth and refined when in tip-top condition. Look out, though: the rip-roaring 535i attracted the drive-it-into-the-ground brigade and many have been thrashed. Head gaskets and water pumps are weaknesses on these big sixes, so check the service history and look for overheating and roughness.

The early small sixes (520i and 525i) had belt-driven camshafts, and the belts need changing about every 30,000 miles. Like the bigger sixes, these cars are also prone to water pump problems, so check the service history. Later four-valve cars have chain-driven camshafts.

In Britain, the early V8s got a bad reputation when the high sulphur content of our petrol wore the Nikasil bore linings prematurely. BMW changed a lot of engines under warranty, and later V8s have Alusil linings which don’t suffer the same way. Bore wear isn’t a particular problem today.

RUNNING GEAR

Typically, a bigger-engined E34 will have a four-speed ZF automatic with lock-up top gear (which reduces slip and fuel wastage). These transmissions have an excellent reputation, but when worn will slip on upchanges. Later variants had improved internals to deal with this weakness, and exchange gearboxes are readily available from specialists – mostly re-built with the improved components. The V8s have five-speed overdrive autos, which are fairly bullet-proof.

Check the brake discs for any signs of wear or scoring, especially on the bigger-engined cars, which tended to get used harder. The front suspension deserves very close examination. Worn ball-joints cause the steering to feel sloppy, but imprecise steering feel may also result from worn bushes; front-end shimmy under braking will confirm that’s the problem. Note that the later bushes are longer-lived than the originals, with which they are fully interchangeable. Bushes can wear at the back end, too, and you’ll know it’s time for replacements if you can hear a knocking noise on either acceleration or deceleration. 

Rare and complex – but highly desirable – is the 525iX model, with rear-biased, computer-controlled four-wheel drive. Check that it all works properly.


INTERIOR

You won’t get many creaks and rattles from the dash of an E34. However, there’s
a lot of sophisticated equipment – automatic temperature regulation, the Electronic Check Control malfunction warning system, and Service Indicator lights – and it’s not completely bulletproof. The Service Indicator lights can play up, and if the diagnosis is a dead circuit board, owners tend to go for the cheap option of disconnection. So check that the lights do function.

Seats and carpets are remarkably hard-wearing, so any evidence of problems here should sound alarm bells. Is the mileage really as low as the odometer suggests?

Many E34s had a sliding sunroof, and the operating mechanism can jam or break. Check that the central locking works correctly, especially on post-1991 models where the actuator can fail.

One final word of warning: there’s not as much room in the back of an E34 as you might imagine. As always, try before you buy.

OUR VERDICT

The E34 5 series helped raise the game in the medium-saloon market and made BMW a serious threat to former acknowledged leader Mercedes-Benz. With good looks, four- (or five-) door practicality, excellent dynamics and superb engines (even the 1.8-litre four isn't bad), these are simply marvellous cars which you can still use every day, as well as pamper like classics. As for parts and maintenance, you won't have any worries - although you might find ownership costs of the bigger-engined models a bit of a choker.

BMW 320I CONVERTIBLE REVIEW

The ‘full-convertible’ brought the drop-top E30 in-house, and they’re now a stunningly affordable summer choice...

fter slack sales of the coachbuilt Baur ‘TC’ Top Cabriolet conversions, BMW looked at how sales of VW’s Mk1 Golf GTI cabrio had taken off and in 1983 readied a soft-top E30 to be built in-house. As a premium car, the launch of the expensive convertible boosted BMW sales and offered an additional reason for dropping into the local Bimmer showroom – the classy lines of the E30 ‘full-convertible’ with its hood dropped looked sexy in the window. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1983 BMW 32Oi CONVERTIBLE

Engine                                    1991cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  123bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 125lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                124ph

0-60mph                                   9.5sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The E30 is noted for its exceptionally rigid bodywork, and the convertible version has additional bracing in the sills and scuttle to compensate for its lack of a tin roof. Yet there can be some instances of scuttle shake when driving, so it’s important to buy one with little or no rust. Rear aprons, rear wheel arches, sills and the A-post around the base of the windscreen frame are all likely candidates for corrosion. Trim items aren’t immune from deterioration either, so check the underside of the rear bumper for rust. The black coating on mirror housings can delaminate in thick sheets of paint – these can be repainted though it’s often easier to source good secondhand and simply fit another mirror body. 

 

ENGINE

The 2.0-litre straight-six engine is a peaky performer. When buying an E30 fitted with this engine, you need to pay special attention to the service history. The presence of BMW’s SII (Service Interval Indicator) lamps on the dashboard and the ease with which it can be reset using a £10 tool means that if there’s any lack of supporting paperwork to ratify the car’s mileage, then you’re best off walking away. With the engine ticking over, listen out for noisy tappets. Sometimes you may be hearing loud injectors, but being sure about it might mean knowing the difference between a relatively cheap re-shimming, and an expensive re-injectoring of the LE Jetronic injection. 

  

RUNNING GEAR

Manual and auto gearboxes are quite tough. Watch for poor synchromesh on the Getrag 240 and 260 transmissions. These aren’t cheap gearboxes to rebuild so any crunching or noise should ring warning bells. The differentials can sometimes be noisy, but can soldier on for a long while as long as you’re prepared to put up with the noise. Sport-suspension equipped models (check your chassis number with a BMW main dealer to find out what equipment your car was made with) also often have a Limited Slip Differential. These can be noisy after a fast or long run, and need LSD compatible oil for changes and topping up. 

Automatic transmissions came in three and four speed versions, made by ZF. Four-speed 4HP22 versions can suffer damage if too high an engine speed is applied for too long when held in park or neutral, a situation that occurs when emissions testing occurs. Watch for flaring on gearchanges and poor drive uptake. 

Suspension bushes need to be in top condition. The design of the strut/trailing arm suspension can give rise to large camber changes in use, which accounts for the car’s tail-happy reputation. 

 


INTERIOR

Electrics are generally reliable, and only the attentions of previous bodgery should trouble a potential buyer. Are there wires hanging down under the dash? Evidence of additional wires in the engine bay? Any of these should ring alarm bells. Most of the attention on interior condition focuses on the driver’s seat: bolsters wear where the driver gets in and out. Driver’s side carpets can deteriorate, and the trim panel above the pedals can become detached falling onto the driver’s feet. Pedals are a good sign of lower mileage, as the clutch rubber can show wear on leggier cars. 

 

OUR VERDICT

If you need a family classic with drop-top potential, buying BMW’s 320i convertible is a sensible choice. They’re cheap, relatively plentiful, easy to work on and stylish to use.

Modern fripperies such as power steering make the car usable by anyone in the family, and there are many upgrade and tuning options available should you need a full-house, hot engine and sports suspension in the less-rigid convertible ’shell. 

It’s got character, personality, and as a modern classic has everyone stopping to tell you those tales of ownership. Best of all, if you are looking for one you’ll be spoiled for choice – the wet summer has depressed prices.