FORD FIESTA XR2 REVIEW

Ford

The first fast Ford Fiesta was built from 1976 to 1983 and was based on the Fiesta Mk1. The XR2 was designed to be fast but at a reasonable price.

The design for the new XR2 was to be simple, and no major changes to the transmission or chassis were allowed, but it had to be capable of reaching more than 100mph.

The engine was allowed to be changed however, as the XR2 had a 1600cc Kent engine which was already in use in America. This engine produced 84bhp and could do a sub 10 second 0-60 time. It also achieved what it set out to do, producing a top speed of 105 mph. Costing £5500, Ford sold 20,000 Mk1 XR2s.

Mechanically speaking, the car also featured ventilated front discs and uprated suspension. The suspension also made a difference to the look of the car, as it lowered the ride height. Wheels and tyres were also changed and the new XR2 featured pepper pot alloys matched to 185x60 tyres.

Square headlights and indicators were added as well as the addition of spot lights and a set of over riders for the bumpers. These changes helped differentiate the XR2 from regular Fiesta.

The Mk2 was introduced in 1983 and was billed to be an even faster Ford. It still had a 1600cc engine but it was a different unit from the original XR2. This engine was sourced from the XR3 Escort, produced 96bhp and ran to a top speed of 112mph.

Oddly for a hot hatch, alloy wheels were not standard on this model. The same pepper pot alloys from the Mk1 were available as an option. To separate itself from a regular Fiesta, it included a comprehensive bodykit, featuring a rear-mounted spoiler that went around the rear window.

FORD GRANADA MKI REVIEW

Ford

The elegant and long-anticipated replacement for the largely unloved Ford Zephyr/Zodiac Mk IV was once a familiar sight in corporate car parks, but catching a glimpse of a Mk I Ford Granada of any description today is something of an event.

Spy an estate (or, even more impressively, a coupé) and you’ll be tweeting about it for weeks. Happen upon an early Consul (as the base version was known until 1975) and we doubt anyone will believe you without photographic evidence, such is their rarity. The reasons for this apparent scarcity are many and varied (at least one was sacrificed in the famous opening TV title sequence of The Professionals), and while rust no doubt claimed a lot of them, we suspect many more met a grisly end on a banger racing track of some description. Owning one today, then, will definitely set you aside from the masses.

So, early Granadas may be super-rare, but they’re mechanically simple and, since they were big, spacious cars back in the day, serve as a handy family holdall today, with bags of space inside and a boot big enough to swallow an aircraft carrier.

Elegance, prestige, luxury, effortless performance and spacious comfort Ford’s contemporary sales literature for the Ford Granada promised all this and more, although whether anyone ever managed to wring the (also promised) 30mpg out of the four cylinder cars is possibly open to debate.

Unless you’re lucky enough to find a genuine 5.0-litre V8 Perana Mk I Granada (which was only ever sold in South Africa), your engine options are simple – four cylinders or six. Of the former, the earlier V4 has received considerable bad press over the years for its perceived unreliability, but it’s actually a much smoother engine than the later, stronger Pinto.

Essex V6s are the most desirable engine options, and it’s practically de rigeur for the big, handsome coupé, preferably allied to the beautifully slurred C3 three-speed automatic gearbox. Don’t expect sports car handling to go with the lazy power, though – these are cars for cruising in.

Inside, the Mk I Granada is very much of an age, with plenty of wood trim on range-topping Ghias.

VITAL STATISTICS

MK I Ford Granada, 1972-1977

Engine 2994cc/V6/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 138bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 174lb ft@ 3000rpm

Top speed 113mph

0-60mph 10.5sec

Consumption 19.4mpg

Gearbox 3-spd automatic

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Rust is obviously a key problem area on any unrestored 1970s Ford, so make checking the usual places a matter of course. The higher-spec models do require particular attention, as corrosion can fester behind the profusion of chrome body embellishments, especially those fitted to the wheelarches and around the headlights/grille.

The generic door handles Ford used in the 1970s are known for their quirks. If a door won’t open unless you press the handle in before squeezing it up, then chances are it’s on its last legs. A door that persistently refuses to close, meanwhile, is usually as a result of the handle getting jammed in the open position, either through lack of use or from general wear and tear. This could point to broken or damaged innards, but try dismantling the assembly and re-greasing everything first.

ENGINE

Choose your engine wisely: both the 2.5-litre and 3.0-litre Essex V6s enjoy plentiful parts back-up, as does the 2.0-litre Pinto ‘four’, but the earlier (pre-1975) 2.0-litre V4, while arguably the sweeter of the two four-cylinder engines, has nowhere near the same level of support for non-service parts.

ELECTRICS

It’s a tricky and fiddly job, but it’s well worth checking the hexagonal oil pump drives, which connect the oil pump to a gear at the base of the distributor, for wear. Access is tricky and requires the timing to be re-adjusted afterwards, but the ultimate price for neglecting this is an oil-starved engine. While you’re there, it might be worth replacing the condensor and points with electronic ignition for more efficient running, even when hot.

RUNNING GEAR

Noisy tappets can usually be silenced by professional re-adjustment. If not, it can indicate that a previous owner has been less than pedantic about treating the car to regular oil changes, and/or has repeatedly used poor quality or recycled oil. More seriously, this can also point to blocked engine oil ways, which may necessitate a partial strip-down in order to remedy completely.

Contemporary magazine road test reports revealed that Mk I Granadas were known for their relatively inefficient ventilation and heating systems even when they were new, but today can indicate either a leaking matrix (check for wet carpets in the front footwells) or a simple airlock. If it’s the latter, brave DIY-ers may be able to release the lock, although it would be safer for a garage to rectify, given the high temperatures involved.

Discoloured and/or pungent gearbox oil is bad news, suggesting contamination or lack of maintenance, and can signify the beginning of the end for the otherwise bomb-proof C3 three-speed auto. The four-speed all-synchromesh manual is pretty much indestructible, and while driveline slop is rare, it is usually attributable to worn propshaft UJs.

BRAKES

Front brake issues are almost always as a result of simple lack of use, with chief among the most common problems being seized calipers and corroded discs. A rock hard brake pedal can be symptomatic of a perished vacuum hose, but if a subsequent strip-down reveals the hose to appear sound, the servo is most likely on its way out, and will need replacing. An uneven ride height, meanwhile, often points to a simple broken coil spring – replacements are cheap to buy and easy to fit, however, even for an experienced DIY-er.

INTERIOR

Mint early interiors are becoming increasingly scarce, so beware any car that requires major work inside. What few parts are available are usually very expensive – it’s often cheaper (if little easier), to source a complete donor car.

OUR VERDICT

The Mk I Granada has a magical certain something that makes it a truly appealing classic proposition. Part of its appeal must surely stem from its various starring roles in gritty 1970s British TV cop shows such as The Sweeney and The Professionals, but it’s a great car in its own right, being at once handsome (especially so in coupé guise), lazily powerful and hugely practical. Mechanical parts back-up is very good on all models (with the possible exception of the V4-engined cars) and the engines themselves are simple and largely bullet-proof. In fact, your biggest problem is probably going to be actually sourcing a car: well-preserved Grannies are available reasonably readily through the clubs, of course, but most projects will have succumbed to tin worm or banger ignominy by now. Find a good one, though, and you won’t regret it.

FORD GT 40 REVIEW

Ford

Based on Eric Broadley's Lola GT, the original Ford GT40 was spawned by the Dearborn giants ambition to beat Ferrari at Le Mans, a feat it duly achieved for the first time in 1966. The GT40 project had commenced three years previously, following Fords failed attempt to buy into Ferrari, and was based at the Ford Advanced Vehicles plant at Slough, England. The GT40 first ran competitively in 1964, but failed at Le Mans that year and again in 1965. That first sweet Le Mans victory would fall to the 7-litre MkII, with victory the following year going to a US-built MkIV J car. (The GT40 MkIII was the British-built road-going version). A decade on, and the GT40s status as an all-time great classic sportscar had been firmly established, leading to an increased demand for unmolested originals and the start of a replica-building industry. Perhaps the only surprise concerning the emergence of a reconstituted official version is that it took Ford the best part of 40 years to get around to it. The new generation GT40 was developed by Ford's Special Vehicle Team Engineering department under the direction of John Coletti and Fred Goodnow. The composite body panels are unstressed, as on the original, but instead of the monocoque chassis construction used in the 1960s, SVT Engineering developed an all-new aluminium spaceframe combining extruded sections and panels. Doubling as fuel reservoirs, a pair of massive sills contributed much to the originals chassis stiffness, whereas the new GT40 relies on a centre-tunnel backbone that greatly improves ease of entry and exit. The suspension design is an advance on the originals, consisting of unequal-length control arms and a pushrod/bell-crank system acting on horizontally mounted coil spring/damper units. Braking is handled by six-piston, Alcon calipers with cross-drilled and ventilated discs all round. In defeating Ferraris more highly stressed V12s, Ford proved that the traditional American V8 possessed all that was necessary to compete at the cutting edge of international endurance racing. A far cry from the simple pushrod units of the 1960s, todays supercharged MOD 5.4-litre V8 produces 550bhp at 5,250rpm and 500lb/ft of torque at 3,250 revs figures on a par with those of the 7-litre engine that won at Le Mans in 1966 and 1967. The all-synchromesh six-speed transaxle uses ZF internals and was sourced from RBT Transmissions, whos founder Roy Butfoy had been a member of Fords racing team at Le Mans. The interior features leather-upholstered, Recaro bucket seats with aluminium ventilation grommets embedded into the panels. The instrument layout follows the originals, comprising analogue gauges and a large tachometer complemented by modern versions of the traditional toggle switches. Back in 1966, the Ford GT40 endurance racer became the first car to exceed 200mph along the Mulsanne straight at Le Mans. Matching that would be some achievement for the production road car, even allowing for nearly 40 years of technological progress. Tested for Motor Trend magazine by Indycar racing legend Bryan Herta, the new GT40 duly topped 200mph at Fords Kingman test facility in Arizona, emphatically demonstrating that it was indeed worthy of that famous name. About 28 examples of the new Ford GT have been built for the European market.

FORD LOTUS CORTINA REVIEW

Ford

Subtle isn’t really a word that can be used to describe the Ford Lotus Cortina. Sure, it lacks the complement of hideous spoilers that manufacturers use these days to signal that there’s something a bit hot under the bonnet of an ordinary saloon, but you’re still in no doubt that this is something special. The wide wheels certainly add a dashing touch, but it’s the low stance and that vivid green slash that shout "Out of the way, I’m coming through!" It looks like a race car, probably because that’s what it was. The twin-cam engine, based on Ford’s own four cylinder power unit, was developed for racing. Ford were looking to get into motorsport themselves, and did a deal with Colin Chapman of Lotus to build 1000 quick Cortinas with racing in mind.

To put the twin-cam Lotus engine into perspective, the most powerful Cortina available at the time of the Lotus’s launch was the GT, which had 78bhp. The Lotus developed 105bhp, or 115 in Special Equipment form. In a light car like the Cortina, this makes for formidable performance, with 60mph coming up in a touch less than ten seconds, with the engine finally running out of puff at 107mph.

At launch in 1963, this was a sensation. The suspension was not just dropped but re-engineered at the back, with upright coils replacing the leaf springs and an A-bracket helping locate the rear axle. It was very controversial and Ford quickly lost patience with it, replacing the complex set-up with conventional leaf-springs from 1965.

From the moment you coax the twin-cam Lotus engine into life, you know this isn’t going to be a pedestrian experience. It’s rorty and vocal, revving instantly as you blip the throttle. Moving away, the car at first feels reluctant – almost truculent – negotiating speed humps and traffic lights. Put your foot down below 3000rpm and you begin to wonder whether there’s something seriously wrong. The clutch is also heavy and snatchy. This doesn’t seem like much fun.

Keep your foot down, though, and the engine hits that sweet spot, launching the car down the road. Snatch another gear and the power just keeps on coming. Surely it must be topping the ton? A glance at the speedometer suggests otherwise – a mere 60mph. It’s quite remarkable just how much fun this car is without being outlandishly fast. It’s not so much the power, but the brutal, all-out delivery. Ease off and the engine spits and pops like a proper racer. Bury the throttle and a primeval growl under the bonnet assaults the senses, as the twin Webers greedily suck in air and fuel. In no way is this relaxing. It’s noisy and the gearing is almost ludicrously short, making motorway speeds far from effortless. But this isn’t a motorway car. It begs you to hurl it into the corners and keep your foot down as you head for the next one. Disc brakes up front help bleed the speed back off, and the steering, despite being by recirculating ball, is tight and communicative. It’s surprisingly easy to get the tyresto squeal, but not surprising at all that the car encourages you to drive this way. On public roads, we didn’t try to reach the limits of grip, but the naughty Cortina did make us get closer than we normally might. It’s hugely addictive and the ‘retrograde’ rear suspension doesn’t mute the experience even slightly.

Straight sections of road may be tedious and even uncomfortable at times, but when faced with a series of turns, the Lotus Cortina leaves you begging for more. Few cars plead with you to treat them in such a reckless and cavalier manner, and fewer still have comfortable seating for two adults in the back along with a large boot.

No wonder then that the Lotus Cortina lives on as one of the Blue Oval’s greatest icons.

In total, 3301 Lotus Cortina Mk1s were built. An old joke goes that of that number only 5000 remain, due to the number of copies.
The twin-cam engines were first built by JAP and then Villiers. Lotus famously moved to Hethel, Norfolk to have the capacity to build them in-house.

FORD MODEL A REVIEW

Ford

Introduced in December 1927, the new Model A Ford had a more complex design than the Model T but still had a broadly conventional 3.3-litre 4-cylinder 40bhp side-valve engine producing double the power of the Model T, 4-wheel brakes, and a now conventional 3-speed gearbox. Good for 65mph, the eagerly awaited Ford Model A had up-to-the-minute good looks, a choice of colours this time, and with the usual competitive pricing no fewer than 4,500,000 Model As were manufactured and sold in just four years. Surely the snappiest body style as offered today, the model became the chosen transport of such Hollywood stars as Douglas Fairbanks, Mary Pickford and the exotic Dolores Del Rio.

FORD MODEL T REVIEW

Ford

Introduced in October 1908, the Ford Model T had a simple 100'' wheelbase and a chassis which was both lightweight and durable, and continued in production with little basic change until May 1927, with over 15 million sold. Robust to the point of indestructability and built with top-grade vanadium steel, the Ford Model T used a two-speed planetary transmission. Developments included electric lighting in 1915, a switch from brass to a black-finished radiator in 1916, and optional electric starting from 1919. By the mid-Twenties competition prompted the introduction of balloon tyres, the option of wire wheels, and the availability of a range of different colours.

FORD MUSTANG REVIEW

Ford

A genuine American idol, the original Ford Mustang is still at the top of many classic car aficionado’s wish lists to this day. We look into buying the legend...

One of the most iconic cars of all time, the Ford Mustang was all things to all men when it debuted in 1964, offering real presence and plenty of horses to boot. In the first year of production, Ford sold more than 400,000 Mustangs, with a million sales reached by the end of the second year. For that pure Mustang experience, you need to go for one of the first-generation cars, built between ’64 and ’73, so that’s what we’re concentrating on here.

VITAL STATISTICS

1965 Ford Mustang 289

Engine 4735cc/8-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 271bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 312lb ft@3400rpm

Top speed 120mph

0-60mph 8sec

Consumption 15mpg

Gearbox 3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The Mustang’s chassis compares favourably with its contemporaries. Even so, all that grunt can still catch out an unwitting driver, particularly with the V8 models. Look for poorly-repaired accident damage – ill-fitting panels and bumpers are common telltales. Rippled metal under the bonnet also gives the game away, especially at the base of the suspension towers.

Rust can also be a problem, especially if previous repair work wasn’t up to scratch. Be especially wary of patched-up convertibles, as they have a more complex sill construction. Open-tops are also most likely to suffer from rotten floorpans. The driver’s footwell is prone to filling up with water and rusting beneath the carpets. New panels are available, but sheet metal is often used to make a swift repair. The bulkhead can also rot, as the air vents at the base of the windscreen can fill with water, leading to rusty carnage within. Most outer panels are available, although pattern parts can be fiddly to fit, so buying decent quality examples makes sense.

ENGINE

Neither the straight-six nor the V8 are stressed units, so they tend to go on forever if looked after. Leaks, blown gaskets and thick black oil are signs of neglect. Valve-seat recession is the first sign of wear on six-cylinder engines, but if cared for, this shouldn’t occur for at least 150,000 miles. V8s also last pretty much indefinitely, provided they haven’t been tuned and thrashed to within an inch of their lives.

The most common issue with Mustang engines is overheating, again due to dodgy maintenance. Make sure the radiator fan shroud is present, otherwise the radiator won’t get the flow of air it needs. Replacing the standard cast-iron manifolds with tubular items also raises temperatures under the hood.

RUNNING GEAR

Ford’s C4 three-speed automatic transmission was the most commonly used unit on Mustangs. Parts are easy to find, but check the transmission fluid – if it’s black or the level is low, then the ‘box is on the way out. The three-speed manual unit suffers from worn synchromesh and bearings, but again, most parts are available. Ford junked cable-driven and hydraulic clutches for the Mustang, fitting a mechanical unit instead. It’s reliable and strong, with the added bonus of being relatively cheap to fix.

Steering boxes are fairly hardy, but if it is worn beyond repair then new ones are available. Uneven tyre wear could be down to the suspension being out of kilter. If all is well on that score, then check the ride height – a sagging rear end suggests the rear leaf springs are due for renewal.

INTERIOR

All interior and exterior trim is available new, so the only worry on that score is the depth of your pockets. If the seats have seen better days, hang on to the original foam. New covers tend to be fiddly to fit to new foam bases, as they often don’t stretch enough. Seat frames can break, but you shouldn’t have too much trouble tracking down replacements.

Chrome trim quality was never that good when new, so don’t be put off by reproduction items – the fact that they are much cheaper than NOS items should compensate for any drop in quality.

OUR VERDICT

Steve McQueen, the undisputed King of Cool, drove a 1968 Mustang GT390 in Bullitt. The car chase in that movie was over nine minutes long and earned Frank P Keller an Oscar for film editing, with the Mustang playing a starring role. You don’t need to be a movie star to look sharp in a Mustang though – buy wisely and you’ll have one of the coolest cars on the road.

FORD PROBE REVIEW

Ford

Despite its name being the butt of many jokes the Probe is great cheap entry point into a classic coupé. Designed for Europeans by Americans and engineered by the Japanese, the futuristic looking Ford filled the two-door coupé market for the company. Two engines were available, a 2-litre straight four and a 2.5-litre V6. Both came from Mazda, as did the mechanicals. The probe is good-looking and well equipped – and they’re an absolute bargain.

VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Probe 2.5 V6

Engine 2497cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power 163bhp@5600rpm

Torque 160lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed 133mph

0-60mph 7.4sec

Economy 28mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

A common fault with the Probe is the pop-up headlamps. As with many 1990s coupés, if the front end of the car is damaged it can stop the headlamps from opening and closing correctly, leaving you stranded with no lights working. Watch out for corrosion in the wheel arches, and for poorly made body kits that were popular in the ‘90s.

ENGINE & GEARBOX

Both engines are Mazda, as are the gearboxes. Japanese mechanicals prove to be reliable in the Probe, although cambelts should be changed every 60,000 miles. The V6 is non-interference, meaning the piston doesn’t travel into the area where the valves open. Basically, if the cambelt fails it won’t do any major damage. The straight four is not as lucky, so it’s imperative you check if it’s been maintained. Manual and automatic transmissions are available and are robust enough for everyday use.

RUNNING GEAR

Disc brakes all round should stop the car well, but faulty rear calipers are a known problem, especially if the car’s been sat for some time. If they’re sticking it’s worth trying to loosen them, but if that doesn’t solve the problem it’s time for new calipers. Suspension is generally good but keep an eye out for non-standard pieces of kit, the same goes for alloys. They’re quite popular with young tuners. If the car’s particularly slow on the test drive it could be down to a catalytic converter problem, which can get pricey. Slipping clutches are a well-known issue. Although they can last, the only way to fix the issue is to get a new clutch fitted. Once again, pricey, and it’s worth checking the history to see when it was last changed.

INTERIOR

Window seals are a weak point on the Probe. Put it down to those elegant frameless windows. Soggy carpets and mould are a giveaway that moisture’s getting in. Replace the seals and it should fix the problem. A leaking sunroof is common, as is rust. Watch out for rust bubbles in the paintwork, and ask the owner if it’s been replaced. If the sunroof’s noisy then it can be solved by fitting some foam between the sunroof frame and roof to stop them from rubbing. Leather seats are more desirable than cloth, which is important when thinking of resale value.

ELECTRICS

Brake warning lights can flash up on the dash, and are very sensitive. One way to combat this is to check the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s not full to the brim you’ll need to fill it up to make the light go off. Immobilisers can be a problem, through various connection issues. The cheapest and easiest way to fix this problem is to bypass it completely. Remember to tell your insurance company about it though, as you might not be covered if it’s stolen.

OUR VERDICT

You want a Probe because you lust after a low maintenance, sharply styled coupé for not a lot of money. What other American V6 Coupé can you buy for £1000? For many the Probe is everything that was right about 1990s America. The Americans weren’t keen on it because it was front wheel drive, and didn’t come with a V8 – does that matter to us Europeans though? If you’re looking for an increasingly rare, cheap, alternative coupe, you’ve found it.

FORD PUMA REVIEW

Ford

With grin-inducing handling and performance, the Ford Puma is a stylish coupe and also something of a bargain. Here’s how to buy the best.

While its basic underpinnings may have come from the Fiesta, its handling and performance were in a different league to the humble supermini. This was an attractively-priced coupe that was designed to put a smile on your face, and it didn’t take long behind the wheel to achieve just that. Racing Puma aside, the 1.7-litre engine fitted at launch was – and still is – the one to go for. Free-revving and refined, it was more than capable of delivering the performance goods, punching the stylish Ford to 60mph in just 8.6 seconds. Accompanied by a slick gear change operated via a tactile (though chilly in winter) metal gear lever knob, and well-matched pedal weights, it was easy to have fun with the Puma without approaching licence-losing speeds. But perhaps the real icing on this particular Blue Oval cake was the handling. The Fiesta was already well-regarded in this area but the coupe moved things on a few notches, delivering the perfect combination of sharp and adjustable handling allied to an absorbent ride. And even if the bulky airbag steering wheel was hardly a visual delight the hydraulically-assisted helm was brimming with feedback, making this a car that you could throw down a B-road without any fear of it biting back. And if you did get a little over-exuberant the disc/drum brakes were feelsome and easily modulated, and more than ample for the performance on offer.

After all the dynamic excitement the cabin was almost something of a letdown, borrowing its dashboard and most of its trim from the Fiesta, but it all worked well enough in practice. The seats lacked under-thigh support for taller drivers but the driving position itself was spot-on, and there was decent space for front seat passengers. The rear perches weren’t a great deal of use for people though and probably best used as extra storage. The slightly gloomy interior was also lifted by the addition of metal-effect trim on the fascia and there was plenty of standard kit. But the Puma was all about delivering a superb driving experience, and it had that well and truly nailed.

VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Puma 1.7

Engine 1679cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power 123bhp@6300rpm

Torque 116lb ft@4500

Top speed 123mph

0-60mph 8.6secs

Economy 38mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Bodywork shouldn’t be suffering from any major woes but it’s prone to rot in a few places. Rear wheelarches are the weakest spot so feel around the lip of the arch and look for signs of previous repairs. The sills and seat belt anchorage points can also succumb so these need thorough checking from underneath, and examine the extremities of the doors, bonnet, tailgate and around the fuel filler flap. Pumas can also suffer from condensation in the headlamp covers caused by leaking seals, but it’s easy to remedy.

The Racing Puma arrived in early 2000 sporting wider wings – the fronts in aluminium, the rears in steel – so check for dents and scrapes. Both wings and bumpers are very hard to find, and costly when you do. The Racing’s increased desirability and value means condition should be perfect so be wary of neglected examples, and ensure the unique Ford Racing Blue paintwork is free of stone chips and mis-matched areas of colour.

Engine

The 1.7-litre Zetec unit with a Yamaha-developed cylinder head handles big mileages with proper maintenance. Regular oil changes are vital, preferably at 5000 miles rather than the recommended 10,000, and use top-quality lubricant. Fully synthetic oil is best avoided as it can accelerate cylinder bore wear – specialists advise using 5w/30 semi-synthetic. Cambelts need changing at 100,000 miles and rarely give trouble before that - it’s worth doing the water pump at the same time - and listen for misfires as leaking core plugs allow coolant to pool around the spark plugs. Oil leaks from the rocker cover are best fixed with a genuine Ford gasket. The 153bhp Racing featured revisions to inlet, exhaust, and engine management systems but the same issues apply. The 88bhp 1.4 and 101bhp 1.6 engines (from February 1998 and spring 2001 respectively) lack punch, but neither are troublesome unless neglected.

Transmission

The transmission is Ford’s robust ‘IB5’ 5-speed manual gearbox, tiredness showing up in weak synchromesh and a baggy gearshift. The latter is a cheap fix using new linkages but budget for a re-conditioned ‘box if gear-changes are crunchy. A high biting point means a clutch past its best but it’s neither expensive nor particularly difficult to change, but it’s a good bargaining point.

Suspension

Agile handling was a key feature so anything less points to something awry in the suspension. Chances are its worn bushes in the front arms, anti-roll bars, or rear axle beam, so budget accordingly if refurbishment beckons. Clunking over bumps, kerbed wheels or uneven tyre wear should ring alarm bells. Polyurethane replacements are common but they can harshen the ride, and standard items work fine if they’re in good condition. Check also for any corrosion around mounting points while Racing shock absorbers are scarce.

Brakes & Steering

Neither brakes nor steering should give cause for concern. The former were discs and drums – enlarged post-2000 - although the Racing got Alcon items with larger calipers, and they are rare and costly now. ABS and traction control were fitted to most examples so ensure the warning light illuminates and extinguishes correctly. Alloy wheels – the original ‘propeller’ style were replaced by multi-spoke items in 2000 – can suffer from peeling lacquer and corrosion but are reasonably cheap to refurbish. The Racing got 17-inch Speedline items.

Interior

The Fiesta-based interior was straightforward and signs of wear and tear to fabric or leather trim will be obvious. Flimsy plastics and broken trim clips will cause creaks and rattles, but the key thing is ensuring all the electrical items are working, particularly the electric seat height adjustment, central locking, and electric windows. The heated ‘Quick Clear’ windscreen was a handy extra but checking its operation is more difficult unless viewing the car in frosty conditions, and heater valves play up so ensure the system works okay, including the air-conditioning if fitted. Racing Pumas got costly Sparco bucket seats with blue alcantara inserts that should be undamaged.

OUR VERDICT

The Puma is a stylish package that also happens to be great to drive. Add in cheap prices and the appeal is obvious. Running costs are modest too – rare and expensive Racing parts aside - and as long as you avoid the abused and badly modified cars this is a very cheap way to have fun. It certainly gets our vote.

FORD SIERRA COSWORTH REVIEW

Ford

When it came time to replace the ever popular Cortina in 1982 the Ford Sierra's aerodynamic styling was ahead of its time and a bit of a shock to the more conservative Ford buyers.

But that modern styling meant that during ten years of production the car remained looking current while other marques' offerings of the time quickly began to look dated. Ford offered the Sierra in a mind-boggling variety of engine sizes, from humble 1.3L to 2.9i V6 and RS Cosworth. Body styles varied from 3-door hatchback to 5-door estate and even a pickup. Transmissions were 3 and 4 speed automatics and 4 and 5 speed manuals. A range that offered something for everyone from families to racers and, probably most importantly for the success of the model, fleet buyers. As fleet cars they put in many hard miles at the hand of reps and business drivers, so low-mileage cars are very hard to come by these days, but they can be found.

Sierras were built for easy servicing and low running costs so parts are readily available but be aware that parts for the 4x4 and rear-wheel drive models are not interchangeable, nor between the four and six-cylinder models.

A car that was once seen in its thousands up and down the motorways of Britain is now becoming scarce and to the surprise of many good, low mileage, examples are beginning to change hands for surprising sums. However, it is the wild touring car racer for the road RS Cosworth that attracts the most money. Fancy one yourself? You'd better read our guide below.

VITAL STATISTICS

1986 RS Cosworth

Engine 1993cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power 201bhp@6000rpm

Torque 204lb ft@4500rpm

Top Speed 145mph

0-60mph 6sec

Economy 21mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 Only 500 examples of the RS500 were made, so beware of replicas. Authentic examples should have larger ducts in the front bumper, while aerodynamics were improved thanks to a front splitter and extra spoiler on the tailgate. Engines should have a larger turbo and intercooler, two injectors per cylinder and larger capacity oil and water pumps. If in doubt, check the VIN plate on to the slam panel and the chassis number in the floorpan – they should match on a Cosworth, but not on an RS500.

2 You need to look out for corrosion, but it’s crash damage that’s killed most Cossies. On top of a thorough inspection of the car’s structure and panels, a HPI history check is highly recommended. Rippled inner wings or missing seam sealer should set alarm bells ringing, while serious corrosion most likely stems from badly repaired crash damage.

3 Other areas prone to rot include the joint where front wings meet the slam panel, under the rubber trim inside the tailgate and, oddly, behind the windscreen washer bottle in the engine bay. The double-skinned rear chassis rails, front inner wings and suspension are tricky areas to repair.

4 The twin-cam engine is unstressed when in standard tune, but most have been hotted up, so check the 330bhp safety limit hasn’t been exceeded. RS500s have a stronger cylinder block casing, so can take more power without failing.

5Head gasket problems due to corrosion are common and end up pressurising the cooling system. Check by getting the engine up to temperature and carefully removing the header tank cap – major bubbling points to trouble. An upgraded gasket is the best option.

6 Check for play in the steering, as the rubber bush in the universal joint gets cooked by the turbo. The bushes within the track control arms aren’t up to the job either. They wear rapidly, so replacement with a set of polyurethane items is worthwhile, including the anti-roll bar mounts.

7 Many Cossies have aftermarket wheels fitted, so check there is enough inner wheelarch clearance for them. The standard brakes are decent, but will only put up with so much abuse. Judder through the pedal when braking signifies warped discs, meaning a new set will be required.

8 Most original trim parts are obsolete, so check them thoroughly. Also, the dash top can split. While repairs are possible, a new panel is often the best solution – but they’re not cheap, even if you can find one.

9 Aftermarket sound systems and alarms cause havoc with electrics if spliced into the loom without consideration. The fusebox can melt because the twin cooling fans draw up to 30 amps. Originally, a 20-amp fuse was fitted, so it’s worth fitting a beefier wiring setup.

10 Sierra gearboxes are durable, but crunching when shifting into reverse is to be expected due to a lack of synchromesh. The first sign of trouble is baulking when changing up from third to fourth, meaning the synchro rings have begun to fail. A rebuild will cost £500, with refurbed diff units slightly less.

AT THE WHEEL

You have to experience the capabilities of this car for yourself – after that you’ll be hooked. The outstanding characteristic of the turbo-equipped RS Cosworth is it’s impressively broad power band. Quite unlike earlier turbo-equipped cars, it isn’t hamstrung by lag – it produces more than 80 per cent of its maximum torque all the way from 2300rpm right upto 6500rpm – which translates into supremely useable performance out on the road.

The feeling of planting the throttle in second gear is one to be savoured, while the mid-range grunt of the engine is truly staggering – it’s a rasping, growling, buzzing old thing, about as far removed from the sanitized modern four-pots that are peddled today as you could imagine.

The RS Cosworth is raw and a bit rough round the edges then, but is an exciting drive and makes no apologies for it. You can indulge your touring car fantasies too, imagining you’re Robb Gravett on the way to a British Saloon Car Championship victory in 1990. Plus, you can still fit the family and a few bags of shopping on board. What a car!

VERDICT

Thanks to the popularity of television programmes such as Ashes To Ashes, there’s now a serious market for 1980s legends like the Sierra Cosworth. Originality is critical though and bodywork, wheels and seats need to be as close to original specification as possible. Many cars were modified almost as soon as they left the dealer’s forecourt, meaning 100 per cent factory fresh examples are now few and far between. Rising values have also seen many dubious characters jumping on the bandwagon – with plenty of fakes being passed off as the real thing. All genuine cars will feature a tilt/slide sunroof, but if you have any doubts then walk away, or consult the RS Owners’ Club for help and advice. That said, as long as you’re careful when buying, then the Cosworth is a perfomance pleaser that’s only going to appreciate in value

FORD SIERRA REVIEW

Ford

Time hasn’t been kind to the Sierra. At its 1982 launch, loyal Ford buyers were put off its radical aerodynamic styling, even though its proven mechanicals were largely taken from the much-loved Cortina. After fighting the good sales fight against the Cavalier in a bid to become a familiar part of UK street furniture, the Sierra slipped into banger territory, and has struggled to pull itself out ever since.
Today, Ford’s spacious hatchback is something of a classic bargain. Prices are still rock-bottom for all but the sporty XR4i, and swivel-eyed Sierra Cosworth. Yet all models offer commendable drivability and are incredibly easy to live with.
Buy one now, before they all disappear.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Although less rot-prone than many classics, even the youngest of the first-generation Sierras is a quarter of a century old, so rust has had plenty of time to take hold. Inspect the sill structures closely; watch out for hurried MoT-pass repairs. Take a look at the condition of the footwells. A leaking sunroof will result in damp carpets, which will in turn lead to rot eating away at the floor-pans. Watch for rusty boot floors and lower rear wings.
With the bonnet open, check the inner wings, slam panel and front cross-member for corrosion or signs of accident damage. The sporty XR4i is all the more likely to have been crashed; rippling panels are the biggest clue to poorly-repaired accident damage.
The condition of the suspension turrets, front and rear, is crucial; watch out for clumsy patches welded over rot. Grit and road spray give the inner wheel-arches a good pounding, while a rotten battery tray is tricky to put right.
Any bubbling beneath window rubbers will only get worse over time; this is a glass-out job to rectify. Take a good look at the sunroof aperture; blocked drainage holes will lead to rust.
Doors rot around the windows, as well as their lower edges; the plastic trim of the XR4i hides the latter. Secondhand panels do occasionally turn up at breakers’ yards, although doors for the rare three-door models will take some finding.

ENGINE

The sprawling Sierra range used a number of different engines. The hardy Pinto was used in 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0-litre guises, along with a Peugeot-sourced 2.3-litre diesel engine. All are tough, and the Pinto can cover over 150,000 miles with regular oil changes, although if this hasn’t happened, oil blockage problems can destroy camshafts and followers. Look out for oil smoke under acceleration, as well as lubricant leaks.
Higher-spec models used the Cologne V6 in 2.3 or 2.8-litre sizes. These unstressed units can cover over 200,000 miles with care, although top-end valve gear chatter is a result of a lack of oil changes and/or poor quality oil. Ask how regularly the car has been serviced; low values mean that maintenance is neglected on many Sierras.

RUNNING GEAR

As hard-wearing as the engines, the transmissions used on the Sierra aren’t especially troublesome. Manual versions had either four or five gears (depending upon engine size and age), while automatics always had three ratios. All are tough, and should change smoothly, with the five-speed Type 9 still a popular modification for other classics.
Oil level needs to have been maintained to avoid premature wear. However, if you’re test driving a XR4x4, beware of nasty noises while on the move; it could signify transfer box damage.
If the rubber suspension bushes have deteriorated, the car will feel a lot less sharp to drive than it should; inspect the bushes for the front lower arms and rear trailing arms in particular. Ineffective braking could be down to seized rear wheel cylinders, or excessively worn or warped front discs. Beware of XR4is that have lost their heavier-duty suspension dampers; have corners been cut in other areas of maintenance?

INTERIOR

Regardless of whether cloth or velour is fitted, the Sierra’s trim is quite hard wearing. This is just as well, as tracking down replacement trim will be a nightmare. High-mileage cars are more likely to be suffering from tears, stains and sagging bolsters on the driver’s seat, while carpets can go mouldy, if water is leaking into the cabin.
Check that all of the electrical functions – and there are many on the range-topping Ghia – still work. Plastics can fade and crack in the sun, and parcel shelves and door trims are often butchered to fit aftermarket speakers.

OUR VERDICT

Competent, comfortable and easy to live with, the Sierra is still a smart motoring choice today. That explains why many survivors are still treated as everyday cars. Those fuel-saving aerodynamics, coupled with motorway-friendly gearing and thrifty engines ensure that almost all derivatives are still affordable to run. Sadly, most people have yet to cotton on to what outstanding value the Sierra offers. Grab one now, before they all disappear.

FORD SIERRA SAPPHIRE REVIEW

Ford

When the Ford Sierra was launched in 1982 Ford rather shot themselves in the foot. The Cortina has been sensible, fashionable, but fundamentally a ‘safe’ design. The Sierra was the opposite – new, smooth, aerodynamic, and not at all the car Mr Rep wanted. The Sapphire, launched in 1987, was an attempt to woo back the Cortina fans who had deserted Ford for pastures new in the early 80s – with a sensible grille and a boot proud of the passenger compartment it was just what the sales team needed. By the time it was launched, however, the Sierra had become acceptable.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Being a 1980s Ford, it will rot. Rustproofing and steel quality weren’t great at Ford during the 1980s, and early Sapphires can rot before your eyes if you let them. Later examples tend to be better, but even the newest are 20 years old now.

Post 1989 cars had plastic wheelarch liners to try and alleviate the rust issue, whilst these were successful in avoiding A-post and front wing rot they didn’t work entirely as intended at the back – rear arches still go. The front crossmember and front and rear bumper mounts can rust – beware of rot on the bonnet slam panel, for these issues will almost certainly be present too. Doors can rot, and when replacing beware that there are 2 types of lock mechanism which are non interchangeable. Choose your doors carefully!

Engines

Early cars were all Pinto – the 1.6 and 2.0 from the Cortina days and a new 1.8 litre unit. The 1.8 was replaced mid-term with a 1.8 CVH unit, and the 2.0 with a new 2.0 I4 design in 1989. The head gaskets on this unit have been known to fail – primarily because Ford’s original specification for the antifreeze corroded the fibre gaskets used! Later engines used a laminated steel gasket – make sure it’s been changed, and that the chains and guides were replaced at the same time. Tappets can be noisy, and they all like clean oil – change it every 5000 miles. Diesels were a 2.3 Peugeot unit, and later a 1.8 Turbo unit developed by Ford.

Running Gear

Two gearboxes in normal Sierras, all Pinto and CVH cars got the Type 9 and the I4 engined cars got the MT75. Both boxes are tough and should show no faults in service. MacPherson struts with a trailing anti roll bar at the front and independent swing arms at the back are tried and tested, and reliable in service. Some late cars also got rear anti roll bars, but it wasn’t standard fit – don’t be surprised to find it missing. Some later 2.0s have rear disc brakes – if this is the case and the handbrake hasn’t been used in some time it can become inactive on one side – the only solution is a replacement caliper. Barring this and the obvious risk of discs warping, there’s little to worry about here.

Interior

Being essentially an 80s family car and rep hack, it’s not exactly long lived. MK1 dashboards can crack, though MK2 ones seem hardy. Replacement trim can be an issue, unless it’s a 2000E or one of the rare Ghia with leather – however, parts for lesser models can occasionally be obtained from people breaking Sierras as kit-car donors. Front seats are shared with Sierra, rear ones are a different design and won’t fit.

The soundest advice is to buy a common spec with a common interior colour – if you choose something rare with a strangely coloured interior parts will not be hard to find, they’ll be impossible.

Why Should I Buy One?

Do you need a sensible family car but lust after something from days gone by? Are you a reformed rep? Do you just want a cheap classic? Do you need to use it daily? If the answer to any of these is yes then the Sapphire is an ideal classic. The only snag is that with its 5th door the Sierra is more practical – but then it’s also more common. With the Sapphire, you stand out.

What Should I Pay

Project - £300

Usable - £600

Nice - £1350

Concours - £1750

Vital Statistics

Engine – 1993cc, 4-cyl, OHC

Power - 115bhp@5500rpm

Torque - 118lb/ft@4000rpm

Top Speed – 116mph

0-60mph – 9.2 seconds

Economy – 25mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual

FORD THUNDERBIRD REVIEW

Ford

The Ford Thunderbird entered production in 1955 and was only sold in America. The car was intended as Ford answer to the Chevrolet Corvette, although the emphasis was slightly more toward luxury with Ford calling the car a 'personal luxury car' as opposed to a sports car. The Ford Thunderbird ran through several iations over its 50 years in production, with styling between each variant differing hugely.

The first incarnation of the ford Thunderbird is now known as the 'Classic Bird' or 'Little Bird'. Initially Ford only intended to build 10,000 T-Birds, however sales were so strong that Ford continued; the Blue Oval sold more than 16,000 in the first year alone. The car was a luxury two-seater, available in hard or soft top options and powered by the 292 Y-Block V8 engine. Toward the end of the Little/Classic Bird's run Ford introduced a new, larger engine, the 312 Y-Block V8, before commissioning a powerful overhaul of it, the McCulloch Supercharged V8 producing 340hp. The car was characterised by its eccentric styling, with distinctive rear port-hole windows and the spare wheel being mounted on the car's exterior. The cars influential styling lived on after production had ended, with the British Ford Anglia's design borrowing heavily from the original T-Bird.

The '58-released 'Square Bird' is most remembered for it's ride height, which was so low that the drivetrain intruded into the cabin of the car, with Ford forced to make a feature out of the huge transmission tunnel that divided the front and rear seats; putting ashtrays and such on it. New engines were added from Ford's FE series, with the option of a new 7.0L MEL-Series engine. There was also the option of a sunroof on the hardtop, in the German built Thunderbird 'Golde Edition'. The car earned Motor Trend's Car of the Year award which was in-turn rewarded with excellent sales. For the next incarnation, the Ford 'Bullet Bird' T-Bird, a new engine was again used, with only one engine on option on offer this time, a 6.4L FE-Series V8.

A new model was introduced; the Ford Thunderbird Sports Roadster used a tonneau cover to effectively remove the back seats. The car was now also available with a 'Kelsey-Hayes' trim pack, in 'Landau' model format, and with the option of a vinyl roof. The car maintained its high profile, country club image and this was reflected with some significant celebrity owners, including Elvis, and by the car's inclusion in President Kennedy's inauguration entourage. Ford also released a limited edition, customised 'Principality of Monaco' Landau model. As was the case with the 'Classic Bird', the styling of the Bullet Bird lived on well after the car's demise in the form of a British Ford; in this case it was the Ford Corsair that was influenced by Thunderbird styling.

By the time the '64 'Flair Bird' as released, despite sporting additions such as disc brakes, the Thunderbird was starting to seem cumbersome compared to competition such as the Buick Riviera or the Pontiac Grand Prix. Despite this the T-Bird continued to out-sell both these cars. Again styling was vastly revised, with radical new rear indicators. The rear light cluster ran the entire width of the car and a turn was indicated by the signal starting in the centre of the car and lighting each bulb in-turn in the direction of the intended turn. This addition, although novel, delayed the car's release due to problems over car-lighting laws. Again another even larger engine was offered, a 7.0 V8, and a new model offered, the Ford Thunderbird Town Hardtop. The release of this model came at the cost of the Landau model, which was dropped (although was later to be replaced with the Town Landau). Again Ford built a limited edition model – the 427 T-Bird was a very limited high performance variant.

1967 saw the release of the 'Glamour Bird'. This particular variant was a change of direction with the emphasis on luxury rather than sporting capabilities. This change was down to Ford's own Mustang, which was essentially beating the T-Bird at its own game, and at a lower cost to boot. The Thunderbird was increased in size and styling was radically different to emphasise that this was a car traveling in a new direction. The Glamour Bird actually had two styling variants within its self. The first incarnation had a large open, fish-mouth style grill, inspired by the Dodge Charger. The second, built from 1970 onward, featured a standard front grille but wrapped around a beak-nose front end.

1973 then saw the release of the 'Big Bird' – the largest Ford Thunderbird ever built and powered by a 7.5L V8. Sales of the car were poor as its release coincided with the oil crisis and, as such, the market shifted toward smaller engines. Ford then followed the trend and began plans to downsize the Thunderbird, which leads some purists to now proclaim the Big Bird as the last 'real' T-Bird.

Ford's shift toward a smaller T-Bird led to the release of the 'Torino Bird'. The car was smaller, cheaper and used smaller V6 engines. This was then followed by the 1980 'Box Bird' which continued in the same vein as the Torino Bird. Downsizing continued with the base model now being 'just' 3.8L. This, coupled with the car's new affordability, tarnished the luxury image and the car was now seen as little more than a sedan with a few added extras.

The'Aero Bird' of the early 80s was somewhat better, earning Motor Trend's Car of the Year and spawning the much praised Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe; it received great reviews. Despite this sales fell still. Ford's last attempt was the 'Super Bird'. Despite the introduction of the range-topping Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe (SC) and again winning Motor Trend's Car of the Year accolade, sales fell further still and the car was dropped in 1997.

Ford did attempt a re-birth of the Thunderbird in 2002 with the release of the 'Retro Bird'. The car returned to the T-Birds roots as a two-seater and was again Motor Trend's Car of the Year (making this the Bird's 4th time). Yet the car was highly priced and poor in comparison to cars in the same price bracket. As such sales were slow and the car was dropped in 2005. Over the Ford Thunderbird's production run of 50 years, over 4.2 million cars were sold.

FORD XR3I REVIEW

Ford

The sporting Escort gained market share as the 1980s wore on. We examine their status as a modern classic...

The Ford XR3i was first released in January 1983. Initially available as the carburettored four-speed XR3, it was the introduction of Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection that added the I to the name and credibility to the model. With 105bhp and a top speed of 120mph, Ford’s hot hatch came good just at the right time.

VITAL STATISTICS

1985 ford xr3i

Engine 1597cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 105bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 101lb ft@1400rpm

Top speed 116mph

0-60mph 8.8sec

Consumption 32mpg

Gearbox 4/5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

While base model Escorts had plain metal, the winged, wheel-arched and skirted XR3i was covered in plastic add-ons just like the shoulder-padded fashions of the era. In period, this meant that Ford XRs looked less rusty than their lesser-specced sisters as the cars aged. But now, with rot able to take a good, hidden hold of steel, it’s easy to buy a car needing much rectification.

Sills and rear wheel arches are the first grot-spots to examine. Check for incorrect clips or fixings, or the use of cyanoacrylate body sealer to hold components on. If you find any, alarm bells should be ringing. Screen bases and front wings can also rot and when you lift the bonnet, the story doesn’t end. Battery trays and the bulkhead below can rot through. The inner wings can disappear, as can the triangular bonnet landing panels at the top of the slam panel.

ENGINE

The CVH, or Compound Valve Hemispherical engine was a modern advanced design for its era. It was Ford’s first European engine to feature hydraulic valve lifters, reducing adjustment time in service, and giving quieter running. While less beset by damp starting problems than previous Ford motors, the CVH did have its own set of special needs – the cambelt needs changing every 36,000 miles, and needs checking either physically or in a paperwork trail that it has been done.

Oil changes need to be frequent on a CVH, no matter what the Ford schedule says, because the engines are prone to black sludge, which can block oilways. Oil pick-up pipes are particularly prone to this, and it is often easier to change the gauze and pick-up tube than try to clean it. You can access this inside the sump. At the top end, motors can get rattly and if any oil starvation happens, the CVH can be prone to kicking a leg out of bed too, so watch that oil level. When servicing, take your 10mm, 11mm and 13mm spanners and go around every nut and bolt you can find. Many of them will have ‘eased off’ in use and this engine always seems to need a nip up, not helped by the revs you need to pile on to get the full 105bhp released.

RUNNING GEAR

Brakes and wheel bearings are generally durable, as are driveshafts. Watch for the mechanical anti-lock brakes on the fronts of facelifted models, and read up online before attempting to work on or service them. Four-speed gearboxes are generally durable, but the five-speed gearbox can have some issues. Watch for poor synchromesh on gearchanges initially. Then observe the speedo needle carefully on the test drive. If it seems sluggish, flicky or doesn’t work, then suspect imminent failure of the diff bearings! Excess run-out as the bearings age causes the speedometer drive pinion to become disengaged, so an apparent speedo fault could mean a gearbox and diff rebuild!

INTERIOR

Inside an XR3i was considered plush in its day. Now you’ll be watching out for worn seat bolsters, crusty carpets and dashboard deterioration. Cigarette burns in upholstery can be common. Check for delaminating windscreens, a sure sign that moisture may be getting past the windscreen seal. If your potential buy is fitted with electric windows or central locking, check they work. Also, check the operation of the rear lamps, as corrosion on the tab terminals of the rear lamp plug sockets can give poor earthing and resultant disco-light signalling.

OUR VERDICT

Back in the day there was a wanton, wideboy hooliganship to owning an XR3i as a used car. But as a Modern Classic there’s a lot to be said for the frugal sporty Ford. They’re involving to drive, easy to tune, and part of our national heritage just as much as a 1960s Farina. You’ll feel great driving it and be able to have conversations at every traffic light and fuel stop with people wanting to regale you with tales of their experiences with the fast Ford. Best of all, you’ll be part of the classic movement in a car that’s as practical, stylish and easy to use as it was the day it was new. Just keep it locked up overnight and use a decent steering-arm clamp when you park it – the XR3i was notoriously easy to steal and if you find a good one you’ll want to hang onto it.

FORD 100E REVIEW

Ford

Loaded with 1950s charm, these sidevalve Fords are have been attracting a new generation of followers.

Not too big, not too small with neat and achingly period styling touches and a massive dollop of 1950s character, a Ford 100E ticks all the right classic boxes. We’re talking here about sidevalve-engined Populars, Anglias and Prefects rather the similar looking 107E, which had the 105E's overhead valve Kent engine.

The 100E Anglia and Prefect looked ultra modern when they were launched in 1953 as the ‘little brothers’ to the larger, and hugely successful, overhead valve-engined Consul, Zephyr and Zodiac.

The new small Fords were cutting edge in their day, featuring unitary construction with hydraulic brakes and MacPherson strut suspension at the front. Such revolutionary technologies were, however markedly contrasted by one major aspect of the car which even today tends to make people buy other classics. Under the bonnet is the sidevalve 1172cc, developing 30bhp. This stunts real world performance somewhat.

There's no criticism about choice: Anglia and Prefects were distinguished by individual radiator treatments and dashboards. Delux versions, with extra trim followed in 1955.

Escort and Squire estate versions of the car being introduced in 1956 being based on the 5cwt van.

In 1959 the Anglia and Prefect 100E ceased production. However, these cars had been like a couple of Citroen DS variants compared to the other small Ford sold alongside them. The 103E Popular, oft known as the ‘sit up and beg Pop’ looked like and indeed almost was a prewar model, and the cheapest car on the market,

In 1959 this was replaced by a (stretching the word to its absolute limit) new Ford 100E Popular, basically the same as the previous Anglia and Prefect and once again starring that sidevalve, which lasted until 1962 as Ford's cheapest car.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 1173cc 4-cyl sidevalve

POWER 30bhp@4500rpm

TORQUE 52lb@4000rpm (104bhp@30

2500rpm)

TOP SPEED 70mph

0-60 MPH 33.8sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 30mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD 3-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Body beautiful

These cars were well-built but could be given for signs of rot after 50 years. Look carefully at the MacPherson strut mountings and the inner wings to which these are attached.

Check also the door bottoms sills, especially where they meet the wings, the lower wing edges and the section where they meet the front valance, the floors, boot, spare wheel well and rear spring hangers. Also watch out for rust arounf the jacking points and around the rear valance. These cars do rot ‘honestly,; ie you can see most of the damage.

Not all is lost
Considering these cars’ relative rarity, a surprising number of body panels are available, Ex-Pressed Steel Panels will even make you a new wing, though you’ll pay £640 for it. Plus VAT. Pop Parts Plus can sell you a rear quarter panel for £35 and sills for £30, inc VAT. Specialists and club members can fix you up with secondhand panels.

Engine warnings
It is rather a charming little unit but don’t expect it to cover vast mileages without work. A thrashed sidevalve on which no-one had changed the oil (recommended frequency every 3000 miles) will be crying out for a rebuild at 25,000 miles or less. The cars were fitted with not over durable white metal bearings, so even a well maintained engine is going to need work by 40,000 miles. Most enthusiasts recommend you should fit shell-type bearings. Pop Parts have these at £350. They’ll also send you a secondhand engine for around £450 or a reconditioned one for £3000.

Obviously do listen extremely carefully for any sign of bearing rattle when checking a new purchase. The engine breather pope can become blocked, explaining an extremely lethargic unit and even oil leaks.

Changing ratios

The three-speed gearboxes have reverse where you’d expect to find first, which has caught out the odd new driver. Synchromesh often wears, and you might also find the car jumping out of gear, particularly second. Specialists will supply components or a reconditioned box, but again this is expenditure you could do without, so give a potential purchase a good checking over.

A few cars were fitted with Newtondrive clutchless transmissiom but these are just about extinct,

Talk steering
Expect some sloppiness in the steering, which could be suffering from a lack of greasing. The steering box may be worn or may need the fluid topping up or replacing, which should be done every thousand miles or so.

Stiff steering could be down to an over adjusted box or the ball races on the MacPherson struts seizing up.

FSOC for these
These cars have excellent support from the Ford Sidevalve Owners Club which prides itself on a friendly welcome and extensive spares scheme.

Extensive brake, suspension, transmissioin and electrical parts are among the vast range on offer. Club members will also help you source anything you need for your car.

Puttingthe brakes on
The handbrake linkage can seize if not regularly greased. Spares are easy to get for the all-drum system. Original spec brake pipes can corrode, especially where they go over the rear axle.

Keeping it in trim

You may be relying on autojumbles and club members for second, though Aldridge Trimming will do you a set of front seat covers for £269.64 and rears for £224.71 including VAT. Door panels are also available from Aldridge.

OUR VERDICT

Speaking as a massive fan of these cars since childhood, I can confirm there is something special about them, small and not terribly fast but packed with automotive X-factor. They are undeniably neatly styled bristling with charm and period styling details, bringing to mind a deeply scaled down Zephyr or Zodiac and goodness knows what from America. They are surprisingly well built, with thick metal. They are also extremely simple cars to work on. Any car with only one fuse is alright by us amateur mechanics! The interiors are deeply charming too, and there’s a surprising amount of space inside.

Though the sidevalve engine is slow the three-speed gearbox does make the most of the available er, power, meaning the cars are ok in town.

Admittedly something like an Austin A35 is a rocket missile by comparison but a 100E is something special. Just enjoy these unique cars for what they are, and don’t forget that half a million were made! As Peter Clarke at Small Ford Spares comments ‘They’re a good all round 1950s classic!’

FORD ANGLIA E494A REVIEW

Ford

The Ford Anglia was a post-WW2 family-car favourite. It offered reliability and cheap motoring.

With the separate headlamps and prominent wings, you expect the vintage styling to be reflected in the driving experience, but the E494A actually proves to be an agreeable companion on the road. Such modest power will never produce much in the way of performance, but the Anglia is happy to bowl along at a steady pace. The slightly agricultural underpinnings make for a somewhat fidgety ride and grip runs out fairly quickly if you get over-enthusiastic with the throttle, but even fairly long journeys are far from unpleasant, as long as you plan your route to use older A and B roads and avoid the stress of motorway travel.

That simple interior is comfortable enough too and the light controls make for a stress-free driving experience. A well-cared for example should run smoothly with a clean pick-up on acceleration, so be prepared for further investigation if this isn’t the case. If you are looking for a simple and reliable tourer, then you really should consider the Anglia.

VITAL STATISTICS

1948 FORD ANGLIA E494A

Engine 933cc/four cylinder/side

Power (bhp@rpm) 23bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 36lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed 57mph

0-60mph 38.3sec

Consumption 36mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The 8hp side-valve engine is both strong and relatively simple, but can be labour-intensive to overhaul. A complete rebuild could easily set you back £2500-3000. A low-frequency knock under load almost certainly means the white-metalled big-end bearings are worn, so listen out when test-driving. These can be replaced with more modern materials. Excessive exhaust smoke can be an issue, but doesn’t always signal an impending failure, while oil fumes in the cabin are generally caused by a blocked breather system which is easily cleaned. Original engines are sometimes swapped for the 10hp unit – a larger starter motor is the giveaway.

The simple chassis is a rugged affair, and any damage or corrosion should be easy to spot. Apart from where the chassis travels over the rear axle and an area at the base of the ‘A’ post there is little to concern would-be buyers, though ensuring cracks haven’t appeared around the leaf spring U-bolts is advisable. Check the floorpan too – water leaks are likely to have occurred at some point in the cars life, and these can quickly have allowed rot to take hold so lifting the floor covering is a sensible precaution.

Corrosion. Check the rear valance, boot floor, boot lid panel, and the mounting flanges where the wings attach to the body, while rust around the rain channels and screen surrounds are tricky areas to repair. Wings and doors are more durable. Disintegration of the ‘A’ and ‘B’ posts will be of greater concern, so check these areas carefully as repairs are labour intensive and therefore costly. Panel gaps on the Anglia were considered good for the time so serious misalignment is worth investigating. While there is little in the way of chrome-work, it is worth ensuring that items mirrors, hubcaps, and light units are present as damaged or missing trim will mean a search for secondhand parts.

ENGINE

Worth noting is that engines often lacked a built-in water pump or oil filter (though these are often bolted-on later), so cooling and lubrication systems need to be kept in good order.

RUNNING GEAR

The three-speed manual gearbox is a tough unit but can get noisy at high mileages. It is susceptible to jumping out of second gear, so watch out on the test drive. Worn selector forks or bearings will be the likely culprits, but a reconditioned ‘box at around £500 is a reasonably cheap cure.

The rest of the running gear is as simple as the car’s appearance suggests. The all-round drum brakes are cable-operated at the front, by rod at the rear, and provide decent braking ability as long as they are set-up and adjusted correctly – a simple job for a specialist so seek advice if you’re not sure. Suspension is by transverse leaf spring and hydraulic damper while an oil-filled worm and peg arrangement takes care of steering duties. Neither system should give trouble as long as the proper greasing regime has been adhered too. Failed wheel bearings can be costly.

INTERIOR

Despite being considered more upmarket than the Ford Popular, the interior of the Anglia is still pretty spartan even by vintage standards. The addition of ‘trafficators’ and two vacuum-operated wipers rather than one are pretty much as far as things stretch in terms of equipment, though the Bakelite dashboard is a nice touch, as long as it is not cracked. Worn window mechanisms can be common. Re-trimming is straightforward but a nice original interior with all the fixtures and fittings in place does add value.Adjust the price you are willing to pay accordingly if refurbishment is required. As with exterior trim, a hunt for used parts will be needed if items are missing, and some parts are now quite scarce.

OUR VERDICT

If you’re a fan of the sit-up-and-beg school of car design, then you will almost certainly like the Anglia E494A. Introduced in 1948, the Anglia was one of the cheapest cars on sale in Britain and set out to provide post-WW2 buyers with a durable, useful and reliable family car.

It certainly achieved that aim and it is that lack of complexity that still makes it desirable today. Modest prices on the used market mean you can get behind the wheel of a very tidy and usable example without breaking the bank, while day-to-day running costs are similarly affordable.

If you’re handy with the spanners the E494A is DIY-friendly too, so unless you really are after a project car, a few simple checks are all that’s necessary to secure yourself an enjoyable, characterful runabout. They're available for a fraction of the price you might pay for a pre-WW2 Ford 12. So for anyone who craves some simple classic motoring, the Anglia could be your period-perfect choice.

There is little to catch the unwary in terms of problems. But even the youngest example is half a century old, so conscientious checking is required if resto bills are to be avoided. With 108,000 built, there's a good selection on the market so don't land yourself with a wreck. Just find a cherished car and keep it that way. You'll enjoy years of affordable motoring.

FORD ZEPHYR MKI REVIEW

Ford

The MkI Zephyr brought unitary bodies to Ford...

With only around 70bhp to call on, the Zephyr is no ball of fire on the open road, but you won’t struggle to keep up with modern traffic. In any case, this car is all about style, something it has in abundance. The simple but charming cabin is a fine place to be with plenty of room, a good driving positionand nicely weighted controls. A well-maintained example should start quickly and settle to a smooth tickover, and while the 2.2-litre engine gets vocal when pressed, long-distance refinement is more than acceptable. An ability to cover plenty of miles in comfort is one of the Zephyr’s biggest plus points, while a smooth ride and secure handling inspire confidence if you do want to make full use of the power on offer. Perhaps it was these attributes that contributed to the Zephyr’s success as a rally car, with speed camera inventor, Maurice Gatsonides, winning the 1953 Monte Carlo Rally in one! So if you’re looking for a roomy and relaxing British classic, this stylish Ford is likely to tick all the boxes.

VITAL STATISTICS

FORD ZEPHYR MKI

Engine 2262cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 68bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 112lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed 80mph

0-60mph 19.5sec

Consumption 20mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It may have been Ford’s first car to feature unitary construction but it also shared the same propensity for rust as many British models, which means thorough checking of the bodywork is required. It’s the usual places too, such as the wings, wheel arches, sills and door bottoms that are most at risk, but you’ll also want to check the front and rear valances, the leading edge of the boot lid and the double-skinned sections of the bonnet. The A-posts (where the front door hinges mount) are also known rot-spots, but be aware that removing the front wings is the only sure way to fully examine them. Good examples are out there if you’re patient and many have been repaired by now. Check the history file for evidence of any body repairs, and check the car to see if the information and bills tally.

A good look underneath is advisable as the underbody can rust in a number of places. Check the front chassis rail where the bumper brackets mount, the front and rear outriggers and jacking points, and the chassis rails where they pass over the rear axle. Lift the carpets in the front and rear footwells and the boot to check for signs of rust. Also feel for any dampness that suggests water ingress.

An often-overlooked problem is scarcity of some exterior trim parts, such asbadges and bumpers. Mazak, chrome and stainless steel were used for these items and you could face a lengthy search for second-hand bits if they are missing. That, or you’ll need to budget for costly re-chroming work. Our advice would be to spend a little more on a car that is essentially complete.

The pretty convertible with its hydraulically-powered hood is something of a rarity, but if you are tempted, make sure the mechanism and hood are in sound condition. A plate is mounted under the bonnet with instructions for operating the hood, so check this is in place as it adds a nice touch of originality. Check for any rips, tears or wear, as replacement hoods can be very expensive.

ENGINE

The iron-block straight six engine is both simple and strong. Questioning the vendor about the previous maintenance regime should tell you all you need to know, and as long as it has been maintained properly and received regular oil changes should prove trouble-free. All the same it is worth watching out for excessive amounts of blue smoke from the exhaust indicating valve stem oil seal or piston-ring wear. There is still an excellent parts supply for these units with items such as camshafts, pistons, and engine blocks all available, and their simplicity makes a re-build a reasonable DIY proposition. Once again, check the history file for any significant repairs that have been carried out during the life of the car.

RUNNING GEAR

The three-speed column change gearbox rarely gives trouble as long as the oil level has been kept topped up – if it jumps out of second gear a re-build is required, but any slack in the linkage is easily sorted. An overdrive unit was a rare option and while it does benefit long-distance cruising, you’ll need to ensure it operates correctly as bringing a defunct unit back to life can be time-consuming and costly. BorgWarner versions were operated by a simple solenoid switch, but the Laycock units were engaged by a cable-operated lever in the cabin, the driver needing to manually lock the system in or out depending on driving conditions. When new, the Zephyr had a tendency to break half-shafts, but stronger replacements are available from specialists.

The suspension system is a simple arrangement with MacPherson struts at the front and semi-elliptic leaf springs aft. Both are trouble-free and easy to refurbish (though watch for rust around the front suspension turrets). The same generally applies to brakes and steering, and evidence of regular maintenance will provide peace of mind. That said, the brakes can prove tricky to bleed owing to the design of the master cylinder (it sucks fluid from the reservoir rather than using gravity), though a £300 conversion kit avoids the problem. Also, the steering box lower mounting bracket can crack over time – a specialist may be needed to sort either problem. Re-build costs can quickly mount, so take this into account when viewing.

INTERIOR

‘Simplicity’ is a word that applies to the interior of the Zephyr too, and with plenty of painted metal on display, refreshing a tired cabin is a DIY task. You’ll need to budget for re-trimming work if seats and carpets are damaged (the leather trim of higher-spec models will add cost), but finding one in good condition shouldn’t be difficult. Replacement interior trim is available though.

OUR VERDICT

If it’s a stylish and roomy family classic that you’re after, then the overall simplicity and robust mechanicals of the Ford Zephyr make it hugely appealing. There are of course some issues to be aware of – corrosion being the main one – but buy carefully and you’ll be rewarded with a fine British car that should prove easy and cheap to run. And if you like to wield the spanners, that simplicity gives plenty of scope for DIY work, too. So buy the best you can afford. Try and avoid cars that have been ‘Teddy-boy’d up’, as too many accessories can spoil the clean lines. Values are creeping up as fewer cars survive, so now is the time to buy.

FORD ZODIAC MKIII REVIEW

Ford

Looking for both space and style? Then this big Ford could be perfect.

While not exactly quick, the Zodiac’s straight-six provides acceptable performance with plenty in reserve for comfortable motorway cruising. Faster roads also demonstrate one of its other attributes, namely a smooth ride – thank the long wheelbase and soft suspension for that.

It feels less comfortable in the twisties though as body roll and imprecise steering combine to make throwing the big Ford around something of a chore, and enthusiastic driving will soon degenerate into tyre-squealing understeer. The standard front disc brakes mean it also stops well. Where this car really scores though is inside. Although the capacious boot squeezed rear passenger space, there is plenty of room up front, the driving position is sound.

VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Zodiac MkIII

Engine 2553cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 109bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 140lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed 100mph

0-60mph 13.4sec

Consumption 18mpg

Gearbox 4-spd manual/3-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It’s no great surprise that corrosion is a major factor with the Zodiac, so the best advice is to check every panel. The wheel arches, door bottoms, and valances all suffer as do the front wings, particularly the lower rear corners, which can come adrift in the worst cases. The bottom of the rear wings can become pretty flaky too, so you’ll need to check the lower corner of the door aperture where the wing meets the sill. More serious is rot around the bulkhead, the front strut top mounts (including beneath the wings), and around the bonnet hinges. The latter can be a tricky repair, so don’t ignore problems here. There’s plenty of chrome on a Zodiac too, and the condition needs careful checking as replacement parts aren’t always easy to find – factor in the cost of any re-conditioning when assessing the asking price.

Don’t be swayed by a shiny exterior. It really is worth getting the car on a ramp before parting with any money as extensive rust repairs will swallow plenty of cash. You need to check the chassis legs – particularly those either side of the engine and above the rear axle – and outriggers thoroughly. The floorpan of the cabin and boot are known rot-spots too, leaky screen seals contributing to the problem.

ENGINE

The straight-six unit is under-stressed, so general engine wear is likely to be the biggest issue. Excessive oil smoke from the exhaust can mean piston rings or cylinder bores in need of attention, while a rumble from the bottom of the engine indicates worn bearings. Valve-gear can get noisy, while lack of lubrication accelerates camshaft wear, and it’s worth checking when the timing chain was last changed as these will stretch over time. Expect the odd oil leak, often from the rear crankshaft seal, while worn carburettor spindles cause poor running. Subtle upgrades such as electronic ignition or uprated cooling system parts are worth having. The straightforward design means overhauling a tired engine is a DIY task, so finding one with a solid body is more important.

RUNNING GEAR

Listen out for noisy manual gearboxes and crunchy gearchanges caused by worn synchromesh. There was a choice of column or floor-mounted shift and worn linkages can cause an obstructive shift. Check the over-drive works if fitted too. Automatic ’boxes are considered bullet-proof but check to see if the fluid looks clear. Differentials can whine at high mileages and it’s also worth checking for leaking pinion oil seals, or failed half-shaft seals that have allowed oil to contaminate the rear brakes.

BRAKES

Apart from tired MacPherson struts and sagging leaf springs, there is little to worry about suspension-wise. The steering box rarely gives trouble as long as the oil hasn’t been allowed to leak away but worn linkages will cause vagueness at the helm. Bear in mind that a variety of parts were used on Zephyrs/Zodiacs at the time which aren’t interchangeable. Watch for juddering brake discs and leaking rear wheel cylinders although brake parts are cheap so refurbishing a tired set-up is straightforward. Failed seals can allow brake fluid to leak into the remote-mounted servo, meaning a specialist re-build is required.

INTERIOR

There’s plenty of upholstery and carpeting in the big cabin, so reviving one that’s too far gone will cost. In addition factor in that some trim parts are becoming rare and difficult to source. Sun damage leads to cracking of the dash top and unless you can find a secondhand part, you’re looking at a few hundred pounds for a replacement from abroad. Finding an example with a tidy interior is best then, otherwise haggle accordingly.

OUR VERDICT

Rotten examples are costly to put right, so don’t rush into buying without some careful checking. Be patient though as good ones are out there, and affordable prices along with sensible running costs make this classic 1960s Ford a hugely appealing proposition. Stylish looks and that spacious cabin are the icing on the cake as far as we’re concerned.

FORD ESCORT MKIII REVIEW

Ford

The big-selling front-wheel-drive hatchback is beginning to be taken seriously by classic enthusiasts, and with good reason.

So, the Car of the Year 1981 also sold a million in Britain faster than any other vehicle – ever. You may be surprised to know the car in question was… the all-new Ford Escort MkIII. So ubiquitous was this car, people tend to forget what a great leap it made over the preceding MkII.

Introduced in 1980, the MkIII brought front-wheel drive to the Escort range along with the all-new CVH (Compound Valve Hemispherical) engine, at least on some models. It was also a hatchback, an estate,a van and a Karmann developed convertible. A saloon version was marketed separately as the Ford Orion.

We’re not reviewing the much coveted XR3/XR3i here, nor the go-faster RS: our focus is on the honest workaday 1.1, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 models in L, GL and Ghia form. And the briefly available Popular.

Five-speed manual and three-speed automatic gearboxes were introduced from 1982. The unyielding ride quality was much improved by suspension mods in 1983, followed by a diesel version. The MkIV Escort, with smoother lines, facelifted grille and dashboard and some mechanical tweaks, followed in 1986.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 1597cc/4-cyl/OHC

POWER 79bhp@5800rpm

TORQUE 92lb ft@3000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED 103mph

0-60MPH 11.0sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 30-35mpg

TRANSMISSION FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

These cars have several well-known rot spots. Wheelarches can go (replacements are available) as can rear chassis legs and jacking points. Closely inspect the sills and tailgate too, along with the front wings. Check the areas where the MacPherson struts are mounted – rot here is expensive to rectify. More worrying is corrosion in and around the battery tray, which in the worst cases deposits acid in places it really shouldn’t be.

SUBSTANDARD STEEL

In the mid-1980s Ford decided it would be a good idea to use the cheapest steel it could find. Cars built using it (c1986-88) will probably have long rotted away, but still be careful.

THE BODY BEAUTIFUL

Always buy the best car you can afford, which will hopefully mean you can avoid rustbuckets. But there’s plenty of help at hand if you need it. Ex-Pressed Steel Panels have front scuttles at £185 and rear panels for £350. Classic Ford specialist MC Trading of Sevenoaks sell wheelarches for £17 a corner.

OIL CRISIS

Oil changes on the CVH-engined cars, ie all but the 1.1 model, must be adhered to religiously. Seek out evidence of a conscientious maintenance regime on any car you’re thinking of buying. These engines are notorious for oilway blockages and sludge can target the hydraulic camshaft lifters, damaging the cam. If the cambelt is damaged or simply not replaced on time you’ll be finding a new engine so, again, check its history.

This aside, the engine will last a long time if properly maintained. Check carefully for suspicious rattles and excessive blue smoke, both of which suggest a tired motor.

IS THE CHANGE AS GOOD AS THE REST?

Gearboxes can grow sloppy and dispense with their synchromesh, particularly on second and third gear – watch out for it on the test-drive. Also inspect for worn CV joints and split steering rack gaiters.

IT'S GOOD TO TALK

For a bit of banter with fellow owners and some real-world tips and advice, sign up to the Talk Ford online forum.

KEEPING IT IN TRIM

Posting a ‘wanted’ ad in Classic Car Weekly or on TalkFord is a good way to find replacement interior trim parts. Aldridge Trimming is worth knowing about too – it offers a trimmed headlining board for £243.96 and can retrim your seats using the nearest possible match to the original material.

OUR VERDICT

The MkIII has much to recommend it. Considering that, once upon a time, nobody in the UK was ever more than about 400 metres from one, they’re actually quite rare now – folk will wander over for a chat at filling stations. The MkIII’s original advertising slogan ‘Simple is efficient’ is spot-on: these are uncomplicated, easy-to-work-on cars. But perhaps the most compelling reason is the cost of buying one in the first place (see ‘What to pay’, right). Three grand for a mint example of a genuinely interesting classic you can drive every day – what’s not to like?

FORD ZEPHYR/ZODIAC MKIV REVIEW

Ford

Often overlooked and not always over praised in their day, the MkIV Zephyr and Zodiac were the last truly British big Fords, and great buys today.

‘Not they were NOT in Z-Cars.’ Many a MkIV Ford Zephyr and Zodiac owner will have found themselves uttering that statement to bemused family and enthusiasts who remember the legendary BBC TV police drama. A MkII, in early episodes, and then a MkIII Zephyr filled the screen as it powered along darkened streets in the title sequence. The MkIV looked, and indeed was a totally different large boxy animal, which at least until you see one, is sadly rather overlooked.

Introduced in 1966, a time when Ford was having almost as many big hits as the Beatles. The Zephyr came with the choice of a 1996 V4 or 2495cc V6 engine. The famous Essex V6 was used in the plusher Zodiac and deeply luxurious Executive, which gave us the 2994cc Essex V6. Some Zodiacs also received this bigger unit.

The car’s looks were definitely different but these new Ford’s earned criticism for their handling, made front heavy not only by the vast engines but a bizarre decision to fit the spare wheel under the bonnet (they had to fill the space with something).

Ford fitted anti-roll bars, along with radial tyres to V6 cars, both of which helped.

Saloons were joined by an officially embraced by Ford estate variant, built by Abbott of Farnham. In 1971 1000 Zephyr Specials arrived all painted Uranium Blue with a white vinyl roof, fabric seats and other joys.

Around 150,000 Mk4s were built – nothing to be ashamed of - before the pan European Granada and briefly Consul variant came along in 1972

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 2994cc/V6/OHV

POWER 144@4750rpm

TORQUE 192lb/ft@3000rpm

TOP SPEED 104mph

0-60 MPH 11sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 20mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD 4-speed manual /3-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

WHAT SHOULD I BUY?
Lower spec models of these cars, ie those with single headlamps are rare today. The V4 engine has a reputation of being a little rough but well, we don’t think it’s that bad, and you could live with that in a show car. The V6s are, of course, more refined. Unless you to use the car as a substitute for a biceps workout at the gym you’d be wise to go for a car with power steering. The Executive is a truly luxurious car but doesn’t seem to command too much of a price premium. You should be able to get a good Mk4 for £5000-£6000 at most. Affordable Classics (www.affordableclassics.co.uk have a MoT'd Zodiac needing paintwork in stock. Offers around £3000.

BODYWORK

Plenty of nice metal to rot here. Look at the wings, door bottoms and outer and inner sills, particularly where they meet the rear crossmember. Also look at the area around the MacPherson struts and the chamber where the wiper motor sits. A good look at the boot floor would also be wise, and also make sure you check the front anti roll bar mountings. Suprisingly some body panels are available. Ex-pressed steel panels can even supply wings and jacking points.

Some cars have vinyl roof coverings. Check carefully for unsightly bulges!

ENGINE AND GEARBOX
All the engines in these cars aren’t renowned for lots of major faults, though do make the normal checks for excessive blue smoke etc. Cam followers are prone to wear.

Lancashire-based Car Clinic can supply most parts, even an exchange V6.

They will also supply a kit to tackle one potential major fault – failure of the fibre camshaft gearing – with a kit made from aluminium alloy. Also provided is new iron gearing for the crankshaft, as originally fitted.

Gearboxes are also reasonably rugged, and column changes more positive than most. Automatic gearboxes can be overhauled by firms such as Penn Autos the cost depending on what’s needed.

STEERING, SUSPENSION
Mk4s introduced independent rear suspension to the Ford of Britain range, and the system has lasted well, though after nigh on 50 years of supporting a heavy car you could forgive things being a bit sloppy. Without sounding trite, it’s probably wise to remember that these cars had a soft ride in the first place,

MacPherson struts can seize, especially with a car that’s been standing, and suspension bushes. Past Parts can supply a repair kit or overhaul parts for your car.

Rear brake calipers are inclined to wear and seizure, as are the handbrake cable attached to them. Rover P6 calipers can be adapted to fit however.

THE CLUB
Thankfully there’s an extremely active club for these cars which tries its utmost to help members find spares, new and unused. Various hard to get items such as rear brake discs have been remanufactured. Interior parts are on impossible to find though the club can often help. Cars with tatty interiors could cost a fortune to put right and you’re advised to check the interior thoroughly. There’s a lot of injection mouldings that can decay, and vast expanses of vinyl. The club get holds if any trim it can otherwise various trimmers will do their best. You can also keep looking on internet auction website or advertise for what you want in Classic Car Weekly.

OUR VERDICT

What is not to love? Today the surviving models of these cars are wonderful period pieces, loaded with 1960s add-ons. The styling is surely unique. The centre bit resembled the doors of a Mk2 Cortina with a huge boxy front equally boxy rear. Actually it all works rather well.

Even the basic Zephyrs were well equipped but the Zodiac. Wow! Twin headlamps, a cigar lighter, twin-speed wipers, massive seats and reversing lights. But hail the Executive, with sunroof, power steering, reclining front seats, walnut fascia and more power. Plus carpets you could hide in. But then there was the brightwork extending across the rear of the car, into which the lights were incorporated. An Executive in gold? Resistance would seriously be futile, and don’t forget these big Fords were thoroughly British in design, with a massive character all their own.

  Ford

  Zephyr