FORD CAPRI MK2 REVIEW

Ford

1974 saw the release of the Ford Mk2 Capri. Although mechanically very similar to the Mk1, the 1973 oil crisis forced Ford to make some changes. The car was a more everyday affair now, with a shorter bonnet and 'hatchback' boot design to make the car more practical. Although the hatchback did give it superior boot capacity, some rigidity problems were encountered during development and extra metal was needed to fix this problem. This added even more weight to the increasingly heavy car.

Aesthetically the Capri MK2 is a clear descendent of the MK1. The UK engine range remained the same as the post-September 1972 Capri MK1, with one concession. The Corsair V4 engine was replaced with an American-spec Pinto engine, producing 98bhp.

In addition to current range, lots of new trim levels were developed, including the 1600GT and 2000GT, which both had more powerful engines and folding rear seats. A Ghia trim level also appeared, featuring special alloy wheels, halogen headlamps, tinted glass and ‘Rialto’ seat upholstery.

Capri production in Britain stopped in October 1976 due to a drop in sales in America. These sales drops would have led to less production in Cologne, and economics suggested that centralising production at Cologne would make production more cost-effective.

Official reasoning for pulling out of this market was due to the strong Deutschmark making the car more expensive. With America buying one-third of Capris made in Cologne, this must have been devastating. Production of the Mk2 Capri ceased in 1978.

1968 FORD CORTINA MK2 REVIEW

Ford

The MkII Cortina carried on the good work of the MkI before it.

MkII Cortinas were made for four years, but still clocked up more than a million sales

Unveiled in 1966, the MkII Cortina’s well-proportioned and boxy bodywork helped to spearhead the move towards less curvaceous styling at the tail end of the 1960s. Reliability was assured too, as the MkII used much of the old MkI’s oily bits, with appreciative customers offered a multitude of different trim and engine options. From 1297cc to 1599cc units and somewhat austere saloons and estates, through to plusher and sportier versions, there was a model to suit every taste and budget.

VITAL STATISTICS

1968 Cortina 1600E

Engine 1599cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 71bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 91lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed 88mph

0-60mph 13sec

Consumption 24mpg

Gearbox 4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Condition of the bulkhead and A-posts is paramount, as both are complex and expensive to fix. Check them carefully, along with other hidden rot spots including the strut tops, sills, spare wheel well and opposite void, boot floor and floor pan. The jacking points can also dissolve, as can the main members above the rear axle, along with the rear spring and shock absorber mountings.

Visible rust is most likely in the area around the headlamps, front bumper supports, front edge of the bonnet, front wings, rear arches and both front and rear valances.

Also check the B-posts and closing panels for the rear doors. New-old stock panels do occasionally surface, but a good selection of remanufactured panels and repair sections is also available from companies such as Ex-Pressed Steel Panels (01535 632721, www.steelpanels.co.uk).

ENGINE

The first signs of trouble from a Kent engine will be noisy valve gear, usually down to worn rockers, cam followers and ultimately the camshaft itself. If the extent of the wear has spread to the latter, then a top-end rebuild is the only remedy, although the camshaft itself is housed within the block.

Worn timing chains also give trouble – listen for a rattling noise emanating from the front of the engine – but compared to these potential problems, it’s worn rings and bores that will cost the most money to fix. Fumes from the filler cap and blue smoke from the exhaust should give the game away, meaning a bottom-end rebuild is required.

Worn synchromesh is the first sign of trouble on manual gearboxes, along with it jumping out of top gear. Listen for droning or whining differentials as they don’t like high mileages – after 100,000 miles they’ll be in need of a rebuild.

RUNNING GEAR

Suspension can get saggy, especially the rear, but all the basic components are either available new or can be refurbished relatively easily. Rear hub bearings are a tricky to replace, requiring 1200lb of pressure to press them out and the same to get the new ones in. So make sure there’s no play there by jacking up the rear of the car and rocking the top and bottom of each wheel to see if there is any movement.

All MkIIs were fitted with a steering box, which is not as precise as a rack-and-pinion setup, so expect up to an inch of movement at the steering wheel before the road wheels join in. However, the steering box can be rebuilt if there’s too much play or tight spots. An extremely vague steering response can often be attributed to worn inner track rod arms, as the ends wear prematurely. Replacements are becoming difficult to find, so check carefully when viewing a prospective purchase.

Poor rear brakes can often be attributed to rear adjuster cogs failing, in turn meaning that the auto-adjust doesn’t work. New discs and pads are available, but any pulling to the side under braking points to a binding caliper.

INTERIOR

Decent interior trim is extremely difficult to find, so don’t underestimate the task of bringing a tired interior up to scratch. Seat frames can break and both trim panels and carpet sets often get damaged over the years, so bear all these potential bargaining points in mind.

OUR VERDICT

Everything that attracted 1960s buyers still holds true today. Crisp styling, stout engines, smooth gearboxes and perky handling are the order of the day, regardless of model, while almost any mechanical malady you’re likely to encounter can be addressed relatively easily and cheaply. Bodywork issues are a different matter however, so don’t necessarily dismiss cars with good bodies but rough and ready running gear.

JAGUAR MK2 REVIEW

Jaguar

Stylish and capable, the Mk2 is, without doubt, one of Jaguar’s finest models. We explain how you need to buy carefully...

A well-sorted and cherished Mk2 is an enjoyable car to drive and the very essence of a British sporting saloon. From the luxurious interior to the taut and confidence-inspiring handling, you are unlikely to be disappointed behind the wheel of a good example.

There are some that find the 2.4-litre model a little underpowered, while others insist that the 3.4 is a touch sweeter than the 3.8. But whichever model you go for, you can be assured of an entertaining and enjoyable driving experience.

On the road, the Mk2 retains a wonderful sense of civility and composure and it really is a classic that feels perfectly capable of long distance journeys with little effort. But it isn’t only about comfort – this is a Jaguar with a real sporting edge and enthusiastic use allows you to revel in the roar from the straight six. Stirring stuff indeed.

Opt for an automatic model with power steering and it handles nicely around town as well.

VITAL STATISTICS

JAGUAR MK2

Engine 3781cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 220bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 240lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 125mph

0-60mph 8.5sec

Consumption 17mpg

Gearbox 4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The monocoque bodyshell is a complex potential rust trap, so proper checks are crucial. Key areas to look at are the floorpan, inner and outer sills, wheel arches, the bottom of the doors, and the wings. The latter are expensive to replace so don’t dismiss any early signs of rot. Pay close attention to the door alignment, which can reveal more serious problems with the shell. Spend plenty of time underneath the car, closely inspecting the box sections and legs of the chassis, the front crossmember (particularly the ‘crow’s feet’ at either end, which are connected to the front valance and cross member), the suspension mountings and jacking points, and also the spare wheel well.

ENGINE

The most popular power unit is the familiar 3.8-litre XK engine. Excessive smoke from the exhaust isn’t necessarily a sign of major problems as it can be caused by blockages in the filter and pipework of the breather system – check here first before assuming the worst. Leaks from the crankshaft’s rear oil seal are a common problem, while a rattle from the front of the engine could be a sign of impending timing chain replacement, which is a tricky and expensive job. That said, low oil pressure can affect the operation of the hydraulic tensioner, leading to poor adjustment; so ensure the oil pressure is healthy – around 50psi when cold, 40psi at normal operating temperature.

ELECTRICS

Secondhand parts can substantially reduce costs. A complete set of wood trim can be had for less than £2000, but could involve a lengthy search for the right parts. Check the electrics thoroughly

as well and ensure all the dials are working.
Many cars have been converted to an alternator set-up, so it’s worth checking for this to see if it has been done.

RUNNING GEAR

The Moss four-speed manual overdrive gearbox is a bit heavy and slow in operation but, apart from worn synchromesh, is otherwise reliable (the later full-synchro Jaguar ‘box is smoother). The overdrive unit itself is generally reliable and can be replaced without removing the gearbox. The Borg Warner Type 35 automatic lasts well with regular fluid changes. Replacing a worn clutch means the engine has to come out – not a cheap fix – so check it carefully on the test drive. A failed master or slave cylinder could be the cause of clutch problems, but you’ll want to be sure.

BRAKES

The suspension system on the Mk2 issimple. A knocking from the front of the car can indicate broken coil springs, while a change to coil springs at the rear is a practical upgrade, so see if this has been done on the car you are looking at. The ride should be comfortable but taut, so any sloppiness could mean that an overhaul is due. Replacing the springs, dampers and bushes isn’t particularly difficult, but the costs can soon mount.

Dunlop disc brakes were standard on the Mk2 and provide decent stopping power if everything is healthy. Brakes can seize on little-used examples, while a weak handbrake isn’t uncommon. A defective servo will be apparent on the test drive and a thorough check of brake lines for signs of corrosion is a sensible precaution. Replacement parts are reasonably priced, so a system in need of overhaul shouldn’t be a deal-breaker. Check for movement in the steering column as this is evidence that the bushes need replacing. The fitment of power steering (a period option) is a popular modification and worth seeking out. If wire wheels are fitted, check for wear in the spokes and splines, as professional refurbishment can be costly.

OUR VERDICT

The Jaguar Mk2 – seemingly the vehicle of choice for bank robbers and fictional TV detectives – has to be one of the most popular classics around. And for good reason. With a superb blend of performance, entertaining handling, and luxury, there’s always demand for the Mk2 among classic car enthusiasts.

There are pitfalls to watch for, so choosing carefully is key when it comes to this wonderful car. Do that and you will end up owning one that is perhaps the true embodiment of Sir William Lyons’ maxim of ‘grace, space, and pace’. You’ll be able to enjoy superb performance from the comfort of a luxurious cabin – few cars having the feelgood factor of a well-sorted Mk2.

There is a thriving owner’s club scene and plenty of specialists that can help keep your car in top-notch condition, while a plentiful parts supply is an added ownership bonus. Follow our advice and find a well-cared for example, and you’ll be ready to enjoy everything this fine British car has to offer.

Securing a tidy example is perfectly possible with a careful approach. We’d advise steering clear of any in need of major restoration – those examples are cheap for a reason – and instead focus on finding a solid, rot-free car.

  Jaguar

  MK2

VAUXHALL ASTRA GTE MK2 REVIEW

Vauxhall

Desired, stolen, thrashed and crashed: the Astra GTE has now made it into the classic world

Choose a later GTE and you’ll get the impressive digital dashboard display. It works well and the 1980s graphics are a constant reminder of the car’s heyday. You can admire it while you sit in comfortable Recaro buckets.

All GTEs are brisk, but the 16v is positively scintillating. With 60mph coming up in less than eight seconds, you can certainly surprise much more modern cars, although the brakes and handling are likely to be pushed a bit too far. After a few high-speed stops, the brakes begin to suffer.

Similarly, the handling is a bit of a struggle at speed. Understeer will kick in strongly if you try entering a bend too quickly, but the tail can snap out when you then ease off the throttle. Aftermarket goodies can aid handling, but this doesn’t mean you have to ‘slam’ the car into the ground. Overall, though, this is a very practical car that is always a pleasure to drive and is becoming a much less common sight on the roads and at shows.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 150bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 150lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed 131mph

0-60mph 7.6sec

Consumption 24mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Check the bodykit for damage and fitment, and check it isn’t hiding corrosion. Astras rot everywhere: the body kit can hide horrors. Check around the front suspension strut tops and the bulkhead – especially around the brake servo; any rot here should be an MoT failure and repairs are tricky. The steering rack can be ripped out of the bulkhead by the power, especially on the 16v. With the car stationary, go from lock to lock and see if the pedals move – if they do, walk away. Door locks may be repaired from ‘screwdrivering’ theft entries.

Check the sills and rear wheelarches. The extra trim here can make inspection difficult so you ideally need to get under the car. Rear arches are often bodged, but repair sections are available. While underneath, check the rear suspension mounting areas. Many an Astra is uneconomical to repair due to rust here.

Get underneath the back end and check the rear bumper apron isn’t hiding rust, especially around the chassis. If a sports exhaust is fitted, check that it isn’t too loud and that you can live with the noise. The GTE has a different tailgate to other Astras; the wiper mounts directly on the glass above the rear spoiler.

ENGINE

The original powerplants were 1.8-litre or 2-litre four-cylinder 8v, but the real tyre-scorcher was the 2-litre 16v. Engine swaps are very common – it’s not something for purists, but if an upgrade has taken place, make sure it has been done well; messy wiring and bodged pipework are not good signs. Whatever the engine, watch for blue smoke from the exhaust which suggests worn internals. Camshafts can get clattery with age and neglect, and the timing belt should be changed every 40,000 miles or five years.

Make sure your GTE is the genuine article and not simply a tarted-up Merit with a bodged engine swap. Check the VIN and engine numbers against the V5 for a start. Do they match? A genuine GTE should have a 43 VIN code prefix. The 16v has a much-modified bodyshell with a raised transmission tunnel and a full crossmember in front of the engine.

RUNNING GEAR

Wheel, tyre and suspension modifications are common, so make sure the result isn’t an ill-handling mess – the right mods will improve the handling. Check the wheels for damage and the tyres for condition; a budget brand suggests penny-pinching. Make sure the braking is strong and even. The 16v has rear discs rather than the drums of the 8v.

INTERIOR

Examine the seat bolsters for damage and cigarette and ‘blim burns’ on seat fabrics. If the later digital dashboard is fitted, make sure it all works. Analogue dials could be specified even later in the GTE’s production life, so don’t be surprised if a digital dash is not fitted. Check the headlining for condition and make sure the electrical equipment is functioning. Electric windows get slow with age. Pre-1988 GTEs have fewer toys. All interior trim is hard to find.

The majority of GTEs were three-door hatchbacks, but a few were built as convertibles and there are a handful of five-door GTEs too. A desirable variant is the Champion of 1990, a 16v in deep metallic red with leather interior; only 500 were built.

OUR VERDICT

Vauxhall created a fine hot hatch with the GTE. The 115bhp 1.8-litre version is now very rare, as most people want the extra performance of later models. However, you still get more than 120mph and a 0-60mph time of just under 10 seconds. Don’t rule it out – especially as some might find the 150bhp 16v just a bit too lairy – it did expose the handling weaknesses of the car. The 123bhp 2-litre is a good compromise.

Vauxhalls always had engines that sounded pleasantly gruff, and they’re very tough, too. Tune-up options are plentiful – if that’s your thing – although the market is already giving priority to cars that are untouched. Genuine, unmolested cars are getting very rare.

The Astra GTE is proof that the hot hatch market was not just limited to the Golf or 205 GTI arena. It’s an impressive car with enough robustness to be used regularly. As classic hot hatches go, you’d be a fool to rule it out.