Ford

FORD ESCORT RS COSWORTH REVIEW

Legendary performance and bold styling, the Escort RS Cosworth is Ford’s rally car for the road

First made available to the public in 1992, the Escort RS Cosworth was the hottest Ford to emerge from the blue oval since the RS200 ended production in 1986. Initially only 2500 road cars were produced in order to meet homologation rules for the World Rally Championship in which the car was set to compete. Original cars were all fitted with the distinctive whale-tail spoiler and were on sale for only two years between 1992 and 1994. Following successful homologation for the 1993 World Rally Championship, Ford adapted the car to make it more useable in everyday situations. The large Garret T3/T04B turbocharger was replaced by the Garret T25, which reduced turbo lag considerably.


VITAL STATISTICS

FORD ESCORT RS COSWORTH

Engine                                    1993cc/DOHC/Turbo

Power (bhp@rpm)                  224bhp@6250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 224ft lb@3500rpm

Top speed                                137mph

0-60mph                                   6.3sec

Consumption                           25mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Despite being nearly 20 years old the bodywork should be in very good condition if the car has been well cared for. Like anything, they will rust if not properly looked after. Rust can creep in where the spoiler meets the boot, and the arches will eventually give in if dirt is allowed to collect. Front valances are quite low, so may have scratches and stone chips from hard driving. Many of these cars will have been modified by now, often badly. Check for rear bumpers being butchered to fit non-standard exhausts, likewise the front bumper for shoddily fitted front-mounted intercoolers. Though it looks for all the world like an Escort Mk V, it isn’t. Over 50 per cent of the panels were new, with the cars being bodied in Germany by Karmann. Replacement panels will be expensive and difficult to locate, so make sure there are no dings and dents. If there is rust on the car, particularly on the wings and bonnet, then it’s a fair indication that crash damage is lurking beneath. Check for fresh paintwork and clean engine bays.

ENGINE

At some point most Cosworths will have passed through the hands of boy racers, so the engine will have probably had a tough life. Engine rebuilds are horribly expensive, so its important you buy wisely. Start the engine from cold and take care to listen to all the noises the engine makes. Tappets may have a bit of a rattle, but if you hear a louder slapping noise walk away straight away. ‘Piston slap’ is a sure-fire sign that the engine is about to expire, so steer clear if there is any doubt in your mind. Bring a friend along to drive behind you on your test drive. Make sure you give it the beans and keep an eye out for any smoke when the engine is under load. Blue smoke will indicate that oil is leaking into the pistons, and white smoke will suggest the turbo is damaged. 

Many Cossies will have fallen foul amateur tuners, so make sure that the car is completely standard. Ideally you want a completely unmodified car that is as it was when it left the factory. If you are happy to buy a modified example, make sure that all the paperwork for the upgrades is present and that it has all been fitted by a reputable garage. If there is no supporting documentation, assume it’s been cooked up in someone’s garage. Be especially wary if the work has been carried out by a previous owner (invariably not an aerospace engineer). 

RUNNING GEAR

Unlike the standard Ford Escort, the Cosworth was always destined for the rally stages. Because of this it was fitted with four-wheel drive, making it more complicated than a standard car. Gearboxes are likely to have seen some hard miles, so listen out for any whining or rattling noises. Take the car on a long test drive through a variety of conditions. Make sure changes are sharp, there is little play, and that it doesn’t jump out of gear. As with most cars of this age CV joints will perish, so make sure you have a good feel underneath. Check that the brakes function well under hard braking, and that it doesn’t pull to either side or judder. 

Suspension should be very good; the RS Cosworth was hailed as one of the best handling cars of its generation. By now though, things may be getting a bit soft. If the car rolls in corners or is sitting low on its haunches then you should probably budget for a refresh. Check that it hasn’t been upgraded or had springs cut. Original Group N suspension is superb, so you want to avoid any aftermarket additions. Give each corner a good push; listen for any knocking noises that may indicate worn out parts.

 

INTERIOR

Cosworths were fitted with Recaro interiors in cloth and leather. Both sets are now rare due to the limited run of cars that was produced. As a result they’re expensive. Don’t bank on being able to replace the interior easily. Make sure that there is as little wear as possible, no rips, cigarette burns, or other signs of abuse. Re-trimming is an option, but this will adversely affect residual value. 

Electrics are generally good, but the Cossie does share a good deal of these components with the base models. While this does mean they’re more likely to go wrong, it also means parts are plentiful and cheap. Scrapyards are brim-full of Mk V Escorts just waiting to be cannibalised for spares. As with any car, make sure that all the electrical componentsand switches are working as advertised. 


OUR VERDICT

The Escort Cosworth is a very capable road car and is now starting to look like an attractive investment. Cars are losing their negative image as they become increasingly rare. Ford really got it right first time round, so avoid any cars that have been bodged on a budget. Any aftermarket additions will hit the value of the car and add little to the experience. Be prepared to pay a premium for originality.

FORD SIERRA MKI 1982-1987 REVIEW

Once they were everywhere, but now Ford’s groundbreaking Sierra is an increasingly rare sight. We show you how to buy a good example of this extremely underrated classic...

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Time hasn’t been kind to the Sierra. At its 1982 launch, loyal Ford buyers were put off its radical aerodynamic styling, even though its proven mechanicals were largely taken from the much-loved Cortina. After fighting the good sales fight against the Cavalier in a bid to become a familiar part of UK street furniture, the Sierra slipped into banger territory, and has struggled to pull itself out ever since.

Today, Ford’s spacious hatchback is something of a classic bargain. Prices are still rock-bottom for all but the sporty XR4i, and swivel-eyed Sierra Cosworth. Yet all models offer commendable drivability and are incredibly easy to live with. 
Buy one now, before they all disappear.


VITAL STATISTICS

1983 FORD SIERRA 2.0

Engine                                    1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  103bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 116lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed                                115mph

0-60mph                                  10.4sec

Consumption                            35.8mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual.


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although less rot-prone than many classics, even the youngest of the first-generation Sierras is a quarter of a century old, so rust has had plenty of time to take hold. Inspect the sill structures closely; watch out for hurried MoT-pass repairs. Take a look at the condition of the footwells. A leaking sunroof will result in damp carpets, which will in turn lead to rot eating away at the floor-pans. Watch for rusty boot floors and lower rear wings.

With the bonnet open, check the inner wings, slam panel and front cross-member for corrosion or signs of accident damage. The sporty XR4i is all the more likely to have been crashed; rippling panels are the biggest clue to poorly-repaired accident damage. 

The condition of the suspension turrets, front and rear, is crucial; watch out for clumsy patches welded over rot. Grit and road spray give the inner wheel-arches a good pounding, while a rotten battery tray is tricky to put right.

Any bubbling beneath window rubbers will only get worse over time; this is a glass-out job to rectify. Take a good look at the sunroof aperture; blocked drainage holes will lead to rust. 

Doors rot around the windows, as well as their lower edges; the plastic trim of the XR4i hides the latter. Secondhand panels do occasionally turn up at breakers’ yards, although doors for the rare three-door models will take some finding.

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ENGINE

The sprawling Sierra range used a number of different engines. The hardy Pinto was used in 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0-litre guises, along with a Peugeot-sourced 2.3-litre diesel engine. All are tough, and the Pinto can cover over 150,000 miles with regular oil changes, although if this hasn’t happened, oil blockage problems can destroy camshafts and followers. Look out for oil smoke under acceleration, as well as lubricant leaks.

Higher-spec models used the Cologne V6 in 2.3 or 2.8-litre sizes. These unstressed units can cover over 200,000 miles with care, although top-end valve gear chatter is a result of a lack of oil changes and/or poor quality oil. Ask how regularly the car has been serviced; low values mean that maintenance is neglected on many Sierras.

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RUNNING GEAR

As hard-wearing as the engines, the transmissions used on the Sierra aren’t especially troublesome. Manual versions had either four or five gears (depending upon engine size and age), while automatics always had three ratios. All are tough, and should change smoothly, with the five-speed Type 9 still a popular modification for other classics. 

Oil level needs to have been maintained to avoid premature wear. However, if you’re test driving a XR4x4, beware of nasty noises while on the move; it could signify transfer box damage.

If the rubber suspension bushes have deteriorated, the car will feel a lot less sharp to drive than it should; inspect the bushes for the front lower arms and rear trailing arms in particular. Ineffective braking could be down to seized rear wheel cylinders, or excessively worn or warped front discs. Beware of XR4is that have lost their heavier-duty suspension dampers; have corners been cut in other areas of maintenance?


INTERIOR

Regardless of whether cloth or velour is fitted, the Sierra’s trim is quite hard wearing. This is just as well, as tracking down replacement trim will be a nightmare. High-mileage cars are more likely to be suffering from tears, stains and sagging bolsters on the driver’s seat, while carpets can go mouldy, if water is leaking into the cabin.

Check that all of the electrical functions – and there are many on the range-topping Ghia – still work. Plastics can fade and crack in the sun, and parcel shelves and door trims are often butchered to fit aftermarket speakers.

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OUR VERDICT

Competent, comfortable and easy to live with, the Sierra is still a smart motoring choice today. That explains why many survivors are still treated as everyday cars. Those fuel-saving aerodynamics, coupled with motorway-friendly gearing and thrifty engines ensure that almost all derivatives are still affordable to run. Sadly, most people have yet to cotton on to what outstanding value the Sierra offers. Grab one now, before they all disappear.

FORD CAPRI 2.8I REVIEW

Kept in production purely for British consumption...

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The 2.8i featured numerous improvements over standard MkIII Capris including halogen headlamps, pepperpot alloys and a five-speed gearbox, with later 2.8i Special models gaining a colour-coded front grille, half-leather interior, limited slip differential and seven spoke RS wheels. Despite enthusiastic reviews by the motoring press, the Capri 2.8i failed to halt a steady downturn in sales, and, along with the 2.8i Special and 280 ‘Brooklands’, would be the last Capri model on sale, production winding up in 1986. 


VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Capri 2.8i

Engine                                    2792cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  160bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 162ft lb@4200rpm

Top speed                                127mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            27mpg

Gearbox                                    4 & 5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Capris will rust pretty much anywhere, so it’s important you check as much of the car as humanly possible. Don’t just look for rust, but also for filler and signs of bodged repair work. Many Capris ended up in the wars, so you’ll need to be vigilant of poorly repaired crash damage, especially to the chassis. A magnet is a useful tool to take when viewing any potential purpose. Sills and arches should be the first place to check for rust.

Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty; feel along the back of the sills as high up as you can get. Repeat the procedure with the arches. Rust is often worse where you can’t see, so beware any cars that have corrosion underneath. The seams between the front wings and inner wings are also prone to corrosion, so it’s worth checking with the owner to see if the wings have been replaced at any point. 

Scuttles are prone to rusting in cars that haven’t been garaged, so lift the bonnet and inspect where the windscreen meets the bodywork. 

 

ENGINE

The 2.8-litre Cologne V6 is a robust unit, but as with any engine will suffer from the lack of proper maintenance. Regular oil changes are vital, so check that these have been carried out at the recommended intervals. Tuning options are fairly limited with the engine only responding well to forced induction, so most Capri 2.8is should be near enough as they left the factory. These engines are known to run quite hot, so it’s especially important to make sure it doesn’t overheat. Allow the car to heat up fully and check that the fan kicks in. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge – normal operating temperature will see the needle sit about halfway round the dial, but it can creep as far up as three quarters. As long as the fan prevents it going further then it should be fine. 

Head gaskets have been known to let go after about 100,000 miles, so check the service history to see if it’s still running on its original part. Make sure there is no mayonnaise under the oil filler cap. 

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RUNNING GEAR

X-reg and early Y-reg cars were fitted with four-speed manual gearboxes, but later cars benefited from a five-speed unit. Vague gear selection is a common problem caused by wear to linkage bushes. It’s a relatively easy fix so don’t be overly concerned. A loud transmission that jumps out of gear is of more concern, and will mean that the gearbox is in need of an expensive rebuild. Synchromesh will wear with hard use, especially on second gear. 

Ordinary 2.8i models were fitted with open differentials, while 2.8i Specials and 280 models were upgraded to limited slip differentials (LSD). Despite this, many Specials have had their LSDs cannibalised for other fast Ford projects, mostly ending up in MkI Escorts. You need to check that an LSD is really fitted, especially at the lower end of the market. Jack the rear of the car up and turn one of the rear wheels. If the other wheel turns the opposite direction, then a normal open diff is fitted. If they turn the same direction then it is likely to be an LSD. But all may not be as it seems – welded open diffs will turn the same way. To tell the difference, lower the other wheel to the ground. If the free wheel still turns then an LSD is fitted, if not it’s welded, and you should steer well clear. 

INTERIOR

Early cars will be fitted with checked ‘Carla’ trim, with post April ‘83 cars equipped with Shark Grey cloth interior. 2.8i Specials were fitted with half-leather interior, which is more hardwearing than cloth. Pay particular attention to the driver’s seat bolster, making sure that any wear tallies with the displayed mileage. Dashboards can crack if exposed to heat for extended periods; check too for any stick-on replacements covers. Check that the heater blows hot and all the fan settings work. Replacement requires removal of the entire dashboard. 

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OUR VERDICT

Bar the top of the range 280 ‘Brooklands’, the 2.8-litre injection and 2.8i Special Capris are the ones to have. Though the 2.8i has less torque than the 3-litre Essex engine, it requires less maintenance and is more fuel efficient – perfect if you need reliable transport and not just a show queen. 160bhp may not seem a lot, but like so many cars, it’s the way the power is delivered that makes it such a hoot to drive. It has a reputation for being tail-happy, but to be honest, this is largely unfounded.

FORD CONSUL CLASSIC & CAPRI REVIEW

With prices rising, now could be the perfect time to buy this Ford

If the styling hasn’t already convinced you, then the driving experience offered by the Consul and Capri almost certainly will. Okay, the 1340cc model does feel a bit under-nourished on faster roads, so you’ll appreciate the extra power and torque of the 1500 on longer journeys. The need for less gear-changing makes the bigger-engined car a more relaxed mile-muncher too. 

Whichever one you choose, you’ll appreciate the smooth and responsive nature of the engines and the sweet gearshift, while good ride comfort and powerful brakes make negotiating today’s crowded and potholed roads a pleasurable experience, although the steering does lack the sharpness of later rack-and-pinion systems. 

It isn’t just the open road where you’ll enjoy this car either – there’s excellent visibility provided by the thin screen pillars while light controls means it’s stress-free in traffic. The spacious and comfortable cabin has a four-door option, good for family use.   


VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Consul Classic & Capri

Engine                                    1498cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  59bhp@4600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 79lb ft@2300rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  20.1sec

Consumption                            26mpg


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Although fundamentally strong, the Consul’s monocoque body is prone to corrosion in a number of areas. At the front, the headlamp surrounds, inner and outer wings, and suspension strut top mounts are the main areas to check, along with the rear edge of the front wing where it meets the A-post. The sills, jacking points, rear wheel arches, rear valance, and floorpan/spare wheel well are other known rot-spots so don’t ignore signs of problems here. While later 1500 models were better protected, a thorough check of all panel seams and box sections is strongly advised, whatever the model.  

Differences in design and construction means there are rust problems unique to the Capri. However, the Consul’s complex, triple-skinned windscreen pillars are particularly at risk while the roof guttering and rear bulkhead area can also suffer. 

 

ENGINE

The original 1340cc engine is a bit underpowered for such a heavy car and the three-bearing crankshaft was a weak point that threatened terminal failure on hard-used cars. The latter 1500 unit avoided both issues and is a common swap, so be sure you know what’s been fitted. Oil leaks can be a common problem but are generally easy to cure, while excessive blue smoke is most likely going to be caused by worn valve guides or piston rings. Radiator blinds were an option when new and are a nice original touch now, so check they work if fitted. Evidence of regular maintenance will provide reassurance whichever engine you choose but with a re-build a manageable DIY task, it’s the condition of the bodywork that is most important. Lastly, the Capri GT included a twin-choke Weber carburettor and four-branch exhaust manifold among other tweaks, so watch for badge-swaps on run-of-the-mill models.

 

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox with floor or column shift presents few problems, though it’s worth noting that early models lacked synchromesh on 

first gear, something rectified on 1500s. The test drive should reveal any issues with ‘box or differential but neither are hugely expensive to
fix should the worst happen, so this shouldn’t be
a reason to reject an otherwise solid example. Gearbox swaps – including automatics – are
fairly common, so you’ll want to quiz the owner about the standard of any work done. Clunks
from the driveline when applying or lifting off the throttle can be caused by worn propshaft joints.

The strut front suspension and leaf-sprung rear axle are reliable arrangements that can be overhauled at a reasonable cost, leaking dampers and sagging rear springs being the extent of the problems you’re likely to encounter. It’s worth noting that smaller-engined models had a variety of greasing points that needed attention every 10,000 miles or so, an arrangement that was dropped for the 1500. The front disc/rear drum brakes were advanced for a family car of the time and were again trouble-free, though watch for seizure on little-used cars. Some steering parts were unique to the Classic so replacement bits can be hard to obtain, perhaps more so on the later models surprisingly – worth bearing in mind if you think an overhaul is on the cards.


INTERIOR

The stylish interior was a real plus point and the good news is that just about every part is available including the dashboard and gauges. Notable features at the time included variable speed wipers and a headlamp flasher, so make sure these are working.


OUR VERDICT

A combination of good looks, dependable mechanicals, and excellent owner’s club support make the Consul Classic/Capri almost the perfect starter classic. We say ‘almost’ because its reputation for rust isn’t unfounded, which means you need to buy carefully if you’re to avoid a restoration money pit. As long as you bear that aspect in mind, there is little else to stop you enjoying this excellent Ford with a cherished 1500 model being our pick of the bunch.