FORD ZODIAC MKIII REVIEW

Looking for both space and style? Then this big Ford could be perfect.

While not exactly quick, the Zodiac’s straight-six provides acceptable performance with plenty in reserve for comfortable motorway cruising. Faster roads also demonstrate one of its other attributes, namely a smooth ride – thank the long wheelbase and soft suspension for that.  

It feels less comfortable in the twisties though as body roll and imprecise steering combine to make throwing the big Ford around something of a chore, and enthusiastic driving will soon degenerate into tyre-squealing understeer. The standard front disc brakes mean it also stops well. Where this car really scores though is inside. Although the capacious boot squeezed rear passenger space, there is plenty of room up front, the driving position is sound.

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VITAL STATISTICS

Ford Zodiac MkIII

Engine                                    2553cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  109bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 140lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                100mph

0-60mph                                  13.4sec

Consumption                            18mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/3-spd auto

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WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

It’s no great surprise that corrosion is a major factor with the Zodiac, so the best advice is to check every panel. The wheel arches, door bottoms, and valances all suffer as do the front wings, particularly the lower rear corners, which can come adrift in the worst cases. The bottom of the rear wings can become pretty flaky too, so you’ll need to check the lower corner of the door aperture where the wing meets the sill. More serious is rot around the bulkhead, the front strut top mounts (including beneath the wings), and around the bonnet hinges. The latter can be a tricky repair, so don’t ignore problems here. There’s plenty of chrome on a Zodiac too, and the condition needs careful checking as replacement parts aren’t always easy to find – factor in the cost of any re-conditioning when assessing the asking price.

Don’t be swayed by a shiny exterior. It really is worth getting the car on a ramp before parting with any money as extensive rust repairs will swallow plenty of cash. You need to check the chassis legs – particularly those either side of the engine and above the rear axle – and outriggers thoroughly. The floorpan of the cabin and boot are known rot-spots too, leaky screen seals contributing to the problem.

ENGINE

The straight-six unit is under-stressed, so general engine wear is likely to be the biggest issue. Excessive oil smoke from the exhaust can mean piston rings or cylinder bores in need of attention, while a rumble from the bottom of the engine indicates worn bearings. Valve-gear can get noisy, while lack of lubrication accelerates camshaft wear, and it’s worth checking when the timing chain was last changed as these will stretch over time. Expect the odd oil leak, often from the rear crankshaft seal, while worn carburettor spindles cause poor running. Subtle upgrades such as electronic ignition or uprated cooling system parts are worth having. The straightforward design means overhauling a tired engine is a DIY task, so finding one with a solid body is more important.

RUNNING GEAR

Listen out for noisy manual gearboxes and crunchy gearchanges caused by worn synchromesh. There was a choice of column or floor-mounted shift and worn linkages can cause an obstructive shift. Check the over-drive works if fitted too. Automatic ’boxes are considered bullet-proof but check to see if the fluid looks clear. Differentials can whine at high mileages and it’s also worth checking for leaking pinion oil seals, or failed half-shaft seals that have allowed oil to contaminate the rear brakes.

BRAKES

Apart from tired MacPherson struts and sagging leaf springs, there is little to worry about suspension-wise. The steering box rarely gives trouble as long as the oil hasn’t been allowed to leak away but worn linkages will cause vagueness at the helm. Bear in mind that a variety of parts were used on Zephyrs/Zodiacs at the time which aren’t interchangeable. Watch for juddering brake discs and leaking rear wheel cylinders although brake parts are cheap so refurbishing a tired set-up is straightforward. Failed seals can allow brake fluid to leak into the remote-mounted servo, meaning a specialist re-build is required.

INTERIOR

There’s plenty of upholstery and carpeting in the big cabin, so reviving one that’s too far gone will cost. In addition factor in that some trim parts are becoming rare and difficult to source. Sun damage leads to cracking of the dash top and unless you can find a secondhand part, you’re looking at a few hundred pounds for a replacement from abroad. Finding an example with a tidy interior is best then, otherwise haggle accordingly.

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OUR VERDICT

Rotten examples are costly to put right, so don’t rush into buying without some careful checking. Be patient though as good ones are out there, and affordable prices along with sensible running costs make this classic 1960s Ford a hugely appealing proposition. Stylish looks and that spacious cabin are the icing on the cake as far as we’re concerned.

FORD ESCORT MKIII REVIEW

The big-selling front-wheel-drive hatchback is beginning to be taken seriously by classic enthusiasts, and with good reason.

So, the Car of the Year 1981 also sold a million in Britain faster than any other vehicle – ever. You may be surprised to know the car in question was… the all-new Ford Escort MkIII. So ubiquitous was this car, people tend to forget what a great leap it made over the preceding MkII.

Introduced in 1980, the MkIII brought front-wheel drive to the Escort range along with the all-new CVH (Compound Valve Hemispherical) engine, at least on some models. It was also a hatchback, an estate,a van and a Karmann developed convertible. A saloon version was marketed separately as the Ford Orion.

We’re not reviewing the much coveted XR3/XR3i here, nor the go-faster RS: our focus is on the honest workaday 1.1, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6 models in L, GL and Ghia form. And the briefly available Popular.

Five-speed manual and three-speed automatic gearboxes were introduced from 1982. The unyielding ride quality was much improved by suspension mods in 1983, followed by a diesel version. The MkIV Escort, with smoother lines, facelifted grille and dashboard and some mechanical tweaks, followed in 1986.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE                           1597cc/4-cyl/OHC

POWER                            79bhp@5800rpm

TORQUE                          92lb ft@3000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED              103mph

0-60MPH                           11.0sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION          30-35mpg

TRANSMISSION                  FWD, five-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

These cars have several well-known rot spots. Wheelarches can go (replacements are available) as can rear chassis legs and jacking points. Closely inspect the sills and tailgate too, along with the front wings. Check the areas where the MacPherson struts are mounted – rot here is expensive to rectify. More worrying is corrosion in and around the battery tray, which in the worst cases deposits acid in places it really shouldn’t be.

SUBSTANDARD STEEL

In the mid-1980s Ford decided it would be a good idea to use the cheapest steel it could find. Cars built using it (c1986-88) will probably have long rotted away, but still be careful.

THE BODY BEAUTIFUL

Always buy the best car you can afford, which will hopefully mean you can avoid rustbuckets. But there’s plenty of help at hand if you need it. Ex-Pressed Steel Panels have front scuttles at £185 and rear panels for £350. Classic Ford specialist MC Trading of Sevenoaks sell wheelarches for £17 a corner.

OIL CRISIS

Oil changes on the CVH-engined cars, ie all but the 1.1 model, must be adhered to religiously. Seek out evidence of a conscientious maintenance regime on any car you’re thinking of buying.  These engines are notorious for oilway blockages and sludge can target the hydraulic camshaft lifters, damaging the cam. If the cambelt is damaged or simply not replaced on time you’ll be finding a new engine so, again, check its history.

This aside, the engine will last a long time if properly maintained. Check carefully for suspicious rattles and excessive blue smoke, both of which suggest a tired motor.

IS THE CHANGE AS GOOD AS THE REST?

Gearboxes can grow sloppy and dispense with their synchromesh, particularly on second and third gear – watch out for it on the test-drive. Also inspect for worn CV joints and split steering rack gaiters.

IT'S GOOD TO TALK

For a bit of banter with fellow owners and some real-world tips and advice, sign up to the Talk Ford online forum.

KEEPING IT IN TRIM

Posting a ‘wanted’ ad in Classic Car Weekly or on TalkFord is a good way to find replacement interior trim parts. Aldridge Trimming is worth knowing about too – it offers a trimmed headlining board for £243.96 and can retrim your seats using the nearest possible match to the original material.

OUR VERDICT

The MkIII has much to recommend it. Considering that, once upon a time, nobody in the UK was ever more than about 400 metres from one, they’re actually quite rare now – folk will wander over for a chat at filling stations. The MkIII’s original advertising slogan ‘Simple is efficient’ is spot-on: these are uncomplicated, easy-to-work-on cars. But perhaps the most compelling reason is the cost of buying one in the first place (see ‘What to pay’, right). Three grand for a mint example of a genuinely interesting classic you can drive every day – what’s not to like?

TOYOTA MR2 MKIII REVIEW

How to choose a cracking example of this last-generation mid-engine roadster.

Since its launch in 1984, the ‘Mid-ship Runabout 2’ has impressed buyers with a blend of sharp styling and even sharper dynamics.  The first two generations were available only as coupes, although many were fitted with a lift-out T-bar roof, but for the third and final ‘W30’ model Toyota went the whole hog and produced the car solely as a drop-top roadster.  On sale from 2000-2006 it certainly proved a hit with those after good looks and agile handling without breaking the bank, and the same remains true today.  Much of the enjoyment to be had comes courtesy of the delightfully free-revving 1.8-litre twin-cam motor, and while 140bhp might not sound like much nowadays it’s enough to get the lightweight two-seater to 60mph in less than eight seconds.  And while you have to work the engine to get the best out of it, that’s certainly no hardship as it spins to the 6400rpm power peak with real gusto.  A slick-shifting manual gearbox helps to get the best out of it, too, and while there’s the option of a sequential transmission there’s far more fun to be had by swapping ratios yourself.  Wringing the motor out will also introduce you to another facet of the MR2, and that’s the fine handling.  Again, the modest weight pays dividends as it changes direction with real poise and agility, and thanks to the standard limited-slip differential grip is limpet like in the dry.  Slippery conditions are another matter though, and while it’s not especially tricky the combination of short-ish wheelbase, mid-engine layout, and 55 per cent rearward weight bias demands a degree of respect. The accurate and feelsome steering is the icing on the cake, though, when it comes to a twisty B-road.  Things are pretty pleasant on the inside, too, with a snug but comfortable cabin and all the kit you’re likely to need although trim is on the plasticky side.  And while some people complain of limited luggage space, it’s no worse than similar cars in reality.  And you can always pack light to enjoy everything this cracking roadster has to offer. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine           1794cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power            140bhp@6400rpm

Torque          127lb ft@4400rpm

Top speed    130mph

0-60mph        7.9secs

Economy      38mpg

Gearbox        5/6-speed manual/Sequential Manual Transmission

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

The majority of the steel panels are bolted on, which makes replacement easier, but it’s well worth checking for any evidence of previous accident damage.  A combination of lively performance and rearward weight bias could have led to some exiting the road backwards so check the history and examine the panel gaps and paintwork for any sign of mismatches.  Parts prices are reasonable, though.

Corrosion doesn’t appear to be a major issue, but with the earliest now fifteen years old a thorough check of the panels makes sense.  Some owners have complained of rot affecting the rear sub-frame and cross-member, and it can be hidden out of sight, so get a specialist to check if you’re unsure.  The same goes for the sills, and you should also check for any signs of interior damp that could have allowed rust to develop: the hood drain holes in the side vents can become blocked allowing water to flow into the cabin.

Engine

The 1ZZ-FED engine is a cracker, but not without issues in pre-facelift cars built before late 2002.  The main one is the potential for the brittle innards of the ‘pre-cat’ – the catalytic convertor located after the exhaust manifold but ahead of the main cat – to break up, with bits ingested into the engine via the EGR system with disastrous consequences.  The cylinder bores get scored leading to high oil consumption and excessive smoke, so ask the vendor whether the engine has been changed or the cats removed.  Not all were affected by any means, but it’s worth checking the history.  Failed oxygen sensors can be common too: three are fitted and it’s often sensible to replace them all at the same time.  OEM items are pricey but best according to specialists.

It’s also worth checking for loose and rattling exhaust heat shields and evidence of oil leaks from around the timing chain tensioner which can be tricky to cure.  The chain itself should be trouble-free as long as oil changes haven’t been neglected.  A fat sheaf of bills gives peace of mind and a well maintained example will cover big mileages without trouble.  Also, these engines respond well to tuning so make sure you’re aware of any work that might have been done here.  The MR2 is well served by specialists and parts suppliers so keeping one in good mechanical fettle will be no problem.

Interior

The cabin is well screwed together, so only abused cars should be showing any significant signs of wear and tear.  Check everything works, though, including the air-conditioning which was standard on factory hard top models.  That top is quite desirable and can be retro-fitted, although a kit is required costing a couple of hundred pounds. Check it hasn’t been damaged by clumsy handling or storage, though.  The convertible hood is a quality item that just need checking for rips and abrasion, but it’s worth noting that if the glass rear window is damaged the whole hood will need replacing.

Transmission

The manual gearboxes are robust unless abused - a six-speed item was standard from late-2002 - but it’s worth ensuring the clutch is healthy as replacement is quite involved.  The facelift also brought the option of the clutch-less Sequential Manual Transmission: it works well on the road but the Bosch electronics can play up and repairs can be costly, so manual is probably best.  A limited-slip differential was standard on all UK cars, and rarely gives trouble.

Suspension and steering

Suspension and steering components can suffer corrosion so examine them carefully, and if the handling isn’t pin-sharp then suspect suspension bushes in need of replacement.  The electric power steering pump isn’t immune from problems either, so be wary of notchiness or uneven assistance at the wheel.  Brakes are trouble-free and just need checking for wear or illumination of the ABS warning light, but the MR2 is tyre-sensitive so look for good quality items that match all round.  The alloy wheels can be prone to corrosion but aren’t expensive to refurbish.

OUR VERDICT

Boasting compact dimensions, sparkling performance, and terrific handling there’s very little not to like about this last generation of MR2.  A cared-for example will be reliable and inexpensive to run, and we’d advise going for a post-facelift example as it benefits from some useful upgrades.  Either way, though, you won’t be disappointed with what this terrific roadster has to offer.