GTE

RELIANT SCIMITAR GTE REVIEW

Space, pace, but maybe not that much grace. Not that it’s put anyone off. Sporting three-door estates aren’t easy to come by – but this is one of the best.

Reliant Scimitar GTE Review

Reliant Scimitar GTE Review

Born from the mad designs of the styling house Ogle, the Reliant Scimitar GTE was always going to have a curious life.

The blend of practicality and sporting appeal that makes the Scimitar such a useable and entertaining classic made it instantly desirable, while behind the wheel was a throbbing V6.

The smooth and torquey ‘Essex’ V6 engine that nestles in the nose had a decent turn of speed and relaxed cruising ability. The Cologne V6 made its way into the car in 1979, providing even more pace.

Grunt from either of the V6s is heart-poundingly fun when the mood strikes. The chassis is balanced, but plenty of wayward action can be had. The four-speed manual ‘box – especially with overdrive – makes the best of the power on offer though so that’s the one to go for if you prefer a more sporting and involving drive.

Being an estate, there’s plenty of space too.  Passengers have loads of room, as does the luggage. Considering the room, practicality, and comfort on offer, the Scimitar is almost criminally undervalued. But that’s good news for buyers, and as long as you check the condition of the bodywork and interior there’s little to fear with this sporting estate. With such an appealing blend of attributes we like it a lot. You will, too.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 2994cc/V6/OHV

POWER 128bhp@4750rpm

TORQUE 152lb ft@3000pm

MAXIMUM SPEED 110mph

0-60MPH 12.3sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 21mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD, four-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

V6 V GOOD

Ford’s Essex V6 was used in the SE5, SE5A, SE6 and SE6A. It’s durable with regular maintenance so you’re really just looking for signs of neglect. Check for oil leaks, excessive exhaust smoke, and evidence of head gasket failure, and ensure the cooling system is up to scratch. And expect oil pressure of at least 40psi when warm – anything less could point to a worn oil pump drive. The fibre timing wheel was a weak point and most have been replaced with an aluminium item by now, but it’s worth checking, and don’t worry about tales of engine fires; it was a carburettor issue cured years ago, and as long as the fuel inlet pipe at the carb is secure – later ones were modified – it’ll be fine. In 1979, the new SE6B used the German-built Ford ‘Cologne’ 2.8-litre V6. These are generally reliable – and can see off more than 150,000 miles easily. Don’t worry about a rough idle – it’s pretty normal. Do worry about blue smoke.

 

CHASSIS ROT

Chassis rot is prevalent in these cars, as the chassis wasn’t galvanised. Examine the main chassis rails and outriggers, the seat belt mounting points, and around the fuel tank (including the tank itself) although the latter is hard to access completely with the tank in place. The roll-over bar running across the car and bolting to the central outriggers is another rust trap so check it thoroughly, and you should also pay attention to the area beneath the radiator and the spare wheel well in the nose.

 

GOOD BODY

Good news – the glassfibre construction means there’s no panel rust to worry about. Metal strengthening inserts in the SE5 shell can corrode and lead to cracks though. Every panel needs a thorough examination for cracks and grazing - concentrating on stress points such as hinges. It’s important to remember to check the paintwork thoroughly - a full re-spray is trickier and more costly than with a steel body. Watch for signs of micro-blistering, and ensure that a previous re-spray hasn’t been done to cover damage. Parts availability is generally good, but items such as window rubbers, rear bumpers on the ‘5’, and rear light units (shared with the Hillman Hunter) are scarce. You can spot a 5a by the reversing lamps incorporated in the light cluster rather than below the rear bumper.

 

GREASING TRUNNIONS

Trunnions need greasing every six months to avoid excess wear. Worn bushes can be an issue too and while not difficult to sort it will be labour-intensive. Generally though, the steering and brakes present few worries other than wear and tear and parts are cheap, but the suspension needs more careful checking. Remember to check the mounting points for corrosion as well. 

 

CRUNCHY SHIFTS

The Borg Warner 35 automatic added from 1970 should be smooth-shifting but may be in need of a re-build by now so budget accordingly if shifts are jerky.  The 4-speed manual ‘box can suffer from crunchy shifts and jumping out of gear.  Overdrive was added from ’71 and improves cruising ability but check it cuts in and out as it should, and check for leaks in the clutch hydraulics.

 

PRICEY INSIDES

Interiors can get pricey – so condition is another important factor so check it carefully. A full carpet set can cost £264 alone. Ensure minor trim parts are present and correct and check the electrics too as poor earths and aged wiring cause a multitude of niggling problems, although the electric windows in a 5a were always slow. Other issues to watch for include broken front seat frames and excessive creaks and rattles that can signify a tired example. 

 

OUR VERDICT

There’s something very alluring about a sporting estate. You like the sound, and the grunt of the V6. Plus it’s an estate – and its lines are reminiscent of a sports car. The juxtaposition between the three whets many people’s appetites and it’s easy to see why. Parts support is great, and they still offer phenomenal value for money.

VAUXHALL ASTRA GTE MK2 REVIEW

Desired, stolen, thrashed and crashed: the Astra GTE has now made it into the classic world

Choose a later GTE and you’ll get the impressive digital dashboard display. It works well and the 1980s graphics are a constant reminder of the car’s heyday. You can admire it while you sit in comfortable Recaro buckets.

All GTEs are brisk, but the 16v is positively scintillating. With 60mph coming up in less than eight seconds, you can certainly surprise much more modern cars, although the brakes and handling are likely to be pushed a bit too far. After a few high-speed stops, the brakes begin to suffer. 

Similarly, the handling is a bit of a struggle at speed. Understeer will kick in strongly if you try entering a bend too quickly, but the tail can snap out when you then ease off the throttle. Aftermarket goodies can aid handling, but this doesn’t mean you have to ‘slam’ the car into the ground. Overall, though, this is a very practical car that is always a pleasure to drive and is becoming a much less common sight on the roads and at shows.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1998cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  150bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 150lb ft@4800rpm

Top speed                                131mph

0-60mph                                  7.6sec

Consumption                            24mpg 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Check the bodykit for damage and fitment, and check it isn’t hiding corrosion. Astras rot everywhere: the body kit can hide horrors. Check around the front suspension strut tops and the bulkhead – especially around the brake servo; any rot here should be an MoT failure and repairs are tricky. The steering rack can be ripped out of the bulkhead by the power, especially on the 16v. With the car stationary, go from lock to lock and see if the pedals move – if they do, walk away. Door locks may be repaired from ‘screwdrivering’ theft entries.

Check the sills and rear wheelarches. The extra trim here can make inspection difficult so you ideally need to get under the car. Rear arches are often bodged, but repair sections are available. While underneath, check the rear suspension mounting areas. Many an Astra is uneconomical to repair due to rust here. 

Get underneath the back end and check the rear bumper apron isn’t hiding rust, especially around the chassis. If a sports exhaust is fitted, check that it isn’t too loud and that you can live with the noise. The GTE has a different tailgate to other Astras; the wiper mounts directly on the glass above the rear spoiler.

ENGINE

The original powerplants were 1.8-litre or 2-litre four-cylinder 8v, but the real tyre-scorcher was the 2-litre 16v. Engine swaps are very common – it’s not something for purists, but if an upgrade has taken place, make sure it has been done well; messy wiring and bodged pipework are not good signs. Whatever the engine, watch for blue smoke from the exhaust which suggests worn internals. Camshafts can get clattery with age and neglect, and the timing belt should be changed every 40,000 miles or five years. 

Make sure your GTE is the genuine article and not simply a tarted-up Merit with a bodged engine swap. Check the VIN and engine numbers against the V5 for a start. Do they match? A genuine GTE should have a 43 VIN code prefix. The 16v has a much-modified bodyshell with a raised transmission tunnel and a full crossmember in front of the engine. 

RUNNING GEAR

Wheel, tyre and suspension modifications are common, so make sure the result isn’t an ill-handling mess – the right mods will improve the handling. Check the wheels for damage and the tyres for condition; a budget brand suggests penny-pinching. Make sure the braking is strong and even. The 16v has rear discs rather than the drums of the 8v.

INTERIOR

Examine the seat bolsters for damage and cigarette and ‘blim burns’ on seat fabrics. If the later digital dashboard is fitted, make sure it all works. Analogue dials could be specified even later in the GTE’s production life, so don’t be surprised if a digital dash is not fitted. Check the headlining for condition and make sure the electrical equipment is functioning. Electric windows get slow with age. Pre-1988 GTEs have fewer toys. All interior trim is hard to find.

The majority of GTEs were three-door hatchbacks, but a few were built as convertibles and there are a handful of five-door GTEs too. A desirable variant is the Champion of 1990, a 16v in deep metallic red with leather interior; only 500 were built.

OUR VERDICT

Vauxhall created a fine hot hatch with the GTE. The 115bhp 1.8-litre version is now very rare, as most people want the extra performance of later models. However, you still get more than 120mph and a 0-60mph time of just under 10 seconds. Don’t rule it out – especially as some might find the 150bhp 16v just a bit too lairy – it did expose the handling weaknesses of the car. The 123bhp 2-litre is a good compromise.

Vauxhalls always had engines that sounded pleasantly gruff, and they’re very tough, too. Tune-up options are plentiful – if that’s your thing – although the market is already giving priority to cars that are untouched. Genuine, unmolested cars are getting very rare.

The Astra GTE is proof that the hot hatch market was not just limited to the Golf or 205 GTI arena. It’s an impressive car with enough robustness to be used regularly. As classic hot hatches go, you’d be a fool to rule it out.