MORRIS EIGHT (1934-1948) REVIEW

Fancy a slightly different small classic? We reckon this Minor-predecessor is well worth a look

Morris Eight (1934-1948) Review

Compared to a modern classic, an Eight can be a daunting prospect at first. Directional control seems a touch vague, progress is somewhat stately and braking lacks a sense of urgency. Compared to some rivals though – sidevalve Fords and the Austin Seven – it was ahead of the game and once you adjust to its more gentle way of life, an Eight can be joyous to drive. You’ll never get anywhere quickly, but the more you drive one, the less that’ll bother you. 

If you’re happy to potter for long distances, a Series E is a better bet thanks to more gears and proper shell main bearings on the crankshaft.

VITAL STATISTICS

Morris Eight Series E

Engine                                    918cc/4-cyl/SV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  29bhp@4400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 39lb ft@2400rpm

Top speed                                60mph

0-60mph                                  37sec 

Consumption                            36mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The Morris Eight replaced the original Minor in 1934. Early cars are known as pre-series, with the Series 1 introduced in 1935, and the mildly-upgraded Series 2 from 1938 – fitted with solid wheels. The Series E came in 1939, with a new enclosed radiator grille and ‘bugeye’ headlamps in the front wings. Mechanically, the cars are pretty similar. All use a 918cc, side-valve four-cylinder engine, which is simplicity itself to work on – changing a head gasket can be done in no time. If you prize originality, watch out for the later Series 2/E engine being fitted to earlier Eights, as it has a stronger crankshaft. There is no water pump, hence the tall radiator. Watch for leaks and be wary of knocks.

While body colours vary, wings are almost always finished in black. Series E Tourers (1939 only) are exceedingly rare. A common upgrade on the Series E was to use pods to fit more effective headlamps. Check the chassis very carefully behind the rear wheel. It has cut-outs for lightness, which are a perfect trap for muck hurled that way by the front wheels. They can even collapse here and the drill-outs make repair quite tricky. The steering uses a worm-and-peg box and kingpins to swivel the hubs, so you need to check for wear.

The bodywork contains wood as well as steel, with more timber on the Tourers. The Series E is mainly steel, but retains timber floors like a post-war MG. The construction is all very simple but replacing sections of rotten wood is much trickier than a welded repair to the body. The inner rear wings and doors on anything but a Series E will contain wood. On pre-E, check the back edge of the running board where it meets the sill. Be wary of leaks with a Sliding Head saloon as the sunroof’s drain tubes can get blocked.

ENGINE

Carburettor engines were fitted with Solex units when new, but these were notorious for starting problems and many owners have replaced them with Webers. So a non-standard carburettor isn’t necessarily a warning to look for other modifications! Poor starting may also be cured relatively easily by a swap from the original specification. 

Bosch mechanical fuel injection was a feature of the six-cylinder 220SE and 300SE/SEL models. It’s pretty reliable but is not really a DIY job when it goes wrong. Getting it fixed can often prove very expensive. Some recommend retarding the ignition timing on injected engines as a safety measure now that there’s no more high-octane leaded petrol.

Bosch mechanical fuel injection was a feature of the six-cylinder 220SE and 300SE/SEL models. It’s pretty reliable but is not really a DIY job when it goes wrong. Getting it fixed can often prove very expensive. Some recommend retarding the ignition timing on injected engines as a safety measure now that there’s no more high-octane leaded petrol.

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox was three-speed until the four-speed Series E was introduced. No synchromesh on bottom of course, but check it is still present on the other ratios. The four-speed unit can easily be retro-fitted to earlier models. The cabin is a rather simple affair – seats can easily be retrimmed and there’s not a lot else to go wrong. 

Tyres aren’t always cheap, but they are plentiful. Expect to pay over £100 per corner. Deterioration is probably more of an issue than wear, so look for cracks in the tread and sidewalls. Hubcaps for the Series E are very hard to find, but later Minor and even 1100 items will fit. 

BRAKES

The brakes are, perhaps surprisingly for this era, all-hydraulic, though stopping power may seem shockingly lax to those used to more modern classics. All the parts are available, so make sure the car pulls up in a straight line. If it doesn’t, it may just be adjustment but could be a seized wheel cylinder. Go easy when pulling away as it is possible to snap half shafts. Some owners carry a spare as they’re pretty easy to change. Otherwise, axles rarely give much trouble, though tired bearings in the differential can create a lot of noise.

Do check the suspension springs as the leaves can break. Shackles can wear too, causing a knock as you drive. It’s always worth checking the spring hangers for rot and checking the lever-arm dampers for leaks. These can usually be overhauled .Restored Eights tend to have incorrect hoods, made in one piece rather than sections.

INTERIOR

The Morris Register supplies parts – most mechanical items are available, although some bits of trim are more difficult to find.

OUR VERDICT

The term ‘classic’ covers a very broad church, and any classic enthusiast really should give pre-war classic ownership a go. The Morris Eight is a deserving candidate that isn’t very often the obvious choice. 

MORRIS EIGHT SERIES I & II REVIEW

They look quaint and vulnerable but are rugged and reliable...

Morris Eight review

Morris Eights weren't one of the best-selling cars of the 1930s because they were cheap. Orbecause of their cuddly looks. Engineering excellence and ruggedness were the order of the day, meaning a fair number have survived into the 21st Century. A major plus point with the cars was their hydraulic brakes, which even today are surprisingly effective.

More than 221,500 examples were sold in saloon and tourer form between 1934 and 1938, when the replacement Series E arrived. There are no great differences between a Morris EightSeries I and II apart from the later car having a different radiator grille and being fitted with Easiclean wheels.

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 918cc/4cyl/SV

Power 23.5bhp@3900rpm

Torque n/a

Maximum speed 58mph

0-60mph 41.9 sec

Fuel consumption 35-45mpg

Transmission RWD three-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

CHASSIS ROT

These octogenarians are sturdy old things and can be forgiven for the odd rot spot. However, chassis can crack, particularly behind the front spring hangers and occasionally the rear ones, too. You really need to check every inch of the chassis for rust and, even worse, bodging. All of these can be repaired, of course, but it might be more prudent to avoid an Eight with an extremely sick chassis.

WOOD ROT/WOODWORM

All Series I and II cars have some wood in their frames, for example around the rear wheelarches, and also ash door frames; tourers are built around a wooden framework. Do check for excessive body shake and any evidence of wood that is rotten, incomplete, splintered or in the process of providing a nice dinner for woodworm. It would be well worth removing the rear seat to find out more. Firms such as Cooke Group in Leicester can do repairs.

AND MORE RUST

You also need to check carefully for corrosion around the (relatively easy to fabricate) running boards and the area where these meet the front wings, as well as the door bottoms and the area immediately around the rear wheelarches.

ENGINES

The Series I and II shared a 918cc sidevalve engine with white metal bearings. Most parts are available, but pistons are a little thin on the ground. Note that the Series E engin, although also a 918cc sidevalve, has a different cylinder head and pistons. Heads can crack, but repairs can be done. A useful supply of engines and parts came from auxiliary units form tanks some years ago, but these appear to have all passed through the system.

TRANSMISSION

Four-speed gearboxes from the later Series E can be fitted to replace the three-speed units in these cars. Worn synchrimesh most probably means a crash course in learning to double-declutch. First gear never had synchromesh, of course. Differentials are normally sound units, but it's not unknown for halfshafts to break. Clutches are the same as those used in Morris Minors,

STEERING BOXES

These can wear after many years but reconditioned units are available from Morrispares for £360. We would suggest this was a much better option than trying to replace the pegs, etc, yourself.

KINGPINS

These need regular lubrication every 500 miles. Early cars had bronze bushes and later Eights boasted the rolled variety; replacements for these are available.

MORRIS REGISTER

It's essential that Morris owners contact the Register as it is an excellent source of new and used spares.

OUR VERDICT

Pre-WWII cars have their own charm, which is never greater than on these cars. It would be almost impossible not to fall for the Morris Eight's loveable character, from its flowing running boards to the smell of the hot engine. You won't find anything to satisfy your urge for speed, but an Eight bowls along happily at 45-50mph. how lucky that these cars were so much nicer to drive than their main rivals the Austin Seven and Ford Model Y, both of which the Morris comprehemsively outsold. They're economical to run, easy to maintain and have excellent club and specialist support.

MORRIS WORKS MINI COOPER S

After the introduction of the Morris Mini Cooper, the BMC Works began rallying just 4 months later for the 1962 season. Under the new head of department, Stuart Turner, the new Mini Cooper won the 1962 Tulip, Swedish, German and Route du Nord Rallies with drivers such as Rauno Aaltonen, Paddy Hopkirk and Timo Makinen, shortly becoming household names. More competitive in 1963, the improved 1071cc Cooper S was introduced in April 1963, 8 EMO being a very early S, built specifically for the 1963 RAC Rally to be driven by Paddy Hopkirk in his first year rallying Minis, accompanied by Henry Liddon. On this first outing Hopkirk and Liddon finished 4th overall, and 2nd in the touring class, 8 EMO used as the reconnaissance car, still in 1071cc form, for the famous Hopkirk/Liddon 1964 Monte Carlo Rally win, taking 1st place overall, 1st in class, and the Manufacturers Team Prize, arriving back in the UK by aircraft with the winning car, timed for the worlds press to see them. 8 EMO had a busy season in 1964, also appearing at the Tulip, Alpine, Tour de France Rallies as a reconnaissance car and used also for extensive testing for improved competition parts. For the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally in January, Raymond Baxter and Jack Scott attempted the 1-litre class in 8 EMO, broadcaster Raymond Baxter having been drawn into the rally to give a first hand account of the event for BBC radio, the BMC Works preparing 8 EMO to 970cc spec, one of three cars with the then-new Hydrolastic suspension. The car was shipped to Gdynia in Poland for the start at Minsk, but the engine threw a con-rod as Raymond Baxter drove to the start, forcing them to retire before the start. Back at Abingdon, 8 EMO was then fitted with a 1275cc engine and loaned to John Gott, Chief Constable of Northampton and also BMC team captain - to use in the 1965 International Police Rally. Paddy Hopkirk then used the car in August 1965 for practice in the 1000 Lakes Rally in Finland, a report and most brilliant photograph of the car literally flying past the camera in Autosport on 3rd September 1965. Such was their success, the Works Team went on to win the Monte Carlo Rally in 1964, 1965 and 1967, and none more controversial too was their moral victory in the 1966 Monte too, finishing 1-2-3 - Paul Easter and Henry Liddon using 8 EMO as a reconnaissance car for this event the entire team to be disqualified because the teams headlamp dipping system was non-standard. News of this merely served to triple sales on the little Mini in France at the time! Morris Minis won 16 other major rallies in these years, being prominent too in saloon car racing, providing a spectacle to this day at Goodwood. Rebuilt by the Works many times as most of the cars were after a hard life both in testing and use on many events, the Works sold 8 EMO via BMC navigator Mike Wood to Oswald Tillotsons, main BMC dealers, who Mike previously worked for, and it was then used by privateer Geoff Halliwell for rallies and also hillclimbs at Harewood. Changing hands again, 8 EMO was discovered in 1983, laid up and in need of total restoration. Now restored to its 1965 1,275cc specification, 8 EMO has since been used to great effect, winning many shows and also driven again by Paddy Hopkirk and re-united with Raymond Baxter. EVO magazines second issue also featured the car in December 1998, driven by the late Tony Pond. In current specification, 8 EMO is usable for historic road rallies, and could be used for hillclimbs, sprints or track days, and would be welcome to most 'historic' rally displays and driving demonstrations, as has been the case to date. With some small modifications we are informed that the car is also suitable for international historic rallies, including the Monte-Carlo. Said to be the only Works Mini Cooper S to be fitted with all three engines in 970cc, 1071cc and 1275cc forms, 8 EMO is currently in 1275cc 1965 form having been totally rebuilt.

MORRIS OXFORD REVIEW

‘Built for comfort, not speed’, is an expression that perfectly sums up the MO’s driving experience. Progress can’t be rushed when behind the wheel. That doesn’t mean to say that it is uncomfortably slow – by the standards of the late 1940s, performance was quite acceptable. Even today, a healthy cruising speed of 55-60mph ensures that the Morris can hold its own on modern roads. It just won’t blow anyone away.

Provided you’re not looking for road-burning performance, the MO should charm and impress. Roadholding is respectable, with independent front suspension and – unusually for its day – rack-and-pinion steering providing stable direction changes. Well-padded bench seats are comfortable, but hardly encourage spirited cornering. Together with a column gearchange, this sets the tone of the driving experience as being a relaxed affair. 

All you have to do is settle back behind the large chrome-spoked steering wheel, and pilot the Oxford, like a motor cruiser meandering along a river. This is what the classic driving experience is all about.

VITAL STATISTICS

Morris Oxford MO (1948-1954)

Engine                                    1476cc/4-cyl/SV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  41bhp@4200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 65lb ft@1800rpm

Top speed                                50mph

0-60mph                                  31sec

Consumption                            31mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Start your checks with the sills. The outer sills are bolted on and are non-structural items – if they are corroded, club member John Valentine can provide replacements. The inner sills are a different story. Look out for evidence of poor repair work, or old underseal concealing rot.

Watch out for dropping front doors. This could be down to worn hinges, although the more serious cause is severe rot in the A-posts – if strength is lost here, opening the doors will make the weakened areas worse. Repairs here are complex. 

The chassis legs not only support the weight of the engine and gearbox, but take the load from the front suspension. These box sections can suffer, and need to be in good order. 

Corrosion at the bottom of the doors should be easy to identify, unless if excessive quantities of filler have been used to disguise this – take a close look at the curved contours at the bottom of the panels, looking for unevenness. Replacement panels are extremely scarce secondhand.

If you’re looking at the ultra-rare Traveller derivative, bear in mind that the condition of the wood should be reflected in the asking price. Replacing sections is a huge undertaking.

ENGINE

The sturdy sidevalve engine – shared with the J-type van – is relatively unstressed with its low power output, so should soldier on for many miles if cared for. Ask how regularly it has been serviced. 

RUNNING GEAR

The rear suspension leaf springs are bolted at their front edges to a pair of spring hangers. With their enclosed design encouraging rust, look out for patchwork repairs. The rear chassis box sections are similarly critical to strength.

The torsion bar front suspension uses trunnions and king pins, which wear out if greasing is neglected. Fortunately, total failure of this system is rare. Jack up the front of the car and check for play in the swivel pins. The club plans to have undersized trunnions and matching kingpins remade to deal with this problem.

With a column change controlling the four-speed gearbox, any vagueness in the system can be removed by adjusting the balljoints linkages. A serviced three-synchro unit also rarely gives problems if serviced.

BRAKES

The all-round drum brake system can suffer if the car hasn’t been used for a while, with wheel cylinders prone to sticking. Fortunately, these are shared with the MG TD, so sourcing new items shouldn’t be an issue. The master cylinder is located in the chassis leg beneath the driver’s floor. This makes it easy to neglect, so check the fluid level. Master and wheel cylinders can be re-conditioned if required.

INTERIOR

Damaged or missing brightwork will be difficult to replace, as nothing is currently available new. The same goes for the interior. While smaller items, such as door seals, are remanufactured, instruments and controls will require reconditioning, or tracking down secondhand – not an easy task. 

OUR VERDICT

If your classic car checklist includes usability, solidity, appealing looks and plenty of period charm, then look no further than the MO Oxford. With the uncanny ability to make you feel special whenever you slide across that commodious bench seat, this slice of motoring history is still capable of regular use, over 60 years since it was launched.

The 6/80 & MO Club actively works to keep its members’ cars on the road, supplying spare parts and even having batches of scarce items remanufactured. If you’re searching for an MO, joining the club should be your first step. Of course, the MO four-door saloon was simply one model in the Nuffield range of cars. If you crave more power and greater luxury, the six-cylinder Morris Six and Wolseley 6/80 derivatives can certainly deliver, while the four-cylinder Wolseley 4/50 is a step up from the Oxford. You could even strike lucky and stumble across a super-rare Traveller or commercial variant.

Some classics never get the attention they deserve. Take the Morris Oxford MO as a prime example. When it was launched at the 1948 Earls Court Motor Show, as part of a new wave of post-war cars, the MO epitomised modern family motoring.

Monocoque construction, full-width transatlantic styling, independent front suspension, four-speed gearbox – the Oxford was at the forefront of saloon technology. Only an all-new sidevalve engine was a strangely old-fashioned part of the package. Solid, sturdy and dignified, with accommodation for up to six, the big Morris was the next step up from the smaller Minor, which it was designed alongside.

Now, the MO is largely forgotten within the classic world, so often overlooked in favour of its Minor sibling. While other saloons dominate the limelight, the same cannot be said for the Oxford. This doesn’t make sense, as these cars offer a huge amount of motoring enjoyment for a relatively small outlay. Oozing with ’40s charm, life with an MO is an enjoyable affair – just ask Classic Car Weekly’s very own Nick Larkin, a serial MO owner.

MORRIS MINOR TRAVELLER REVIEW

You don’t need carpentry skills if you buy the right Minor ‘Woodie’...

The Traveller may not have been a part of the celebrated Minor family from the very beginning (it was launched in 1953, some five years after the saloon), but the fact that it was still in the line-up when the range was discontinued in 1971 goes some way to showing just how popular it really was.

Key to the Traveller’s appeal, of course, is its astonishing practicality: you can fit four adults into a saloon or convertible, but with the Traveller, you don’t have to skimp on luggage either. Go for one of the later models (1962 onwards) and there’s greater power to go with the load-lugging, too. Just 48bhp might not sound like much, but all things are relative – the 948cc engine produces 37bhp, and the 803cc a paltry 30bhp!

VITAL STATISTICS

MORRIS MINOR TRAVELLER 1098

Engine                                    1098cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  48bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 60 lb ft @2500rpm

Top speed                                77mph

0-60mph                                  24.8sec

Consumption                            31.2mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

The half-timbered rear bodywork is crucial to the structural integrity of the car, so rotten woodwork here is an immediate MoT failure.

Failure to sand-down the ash timbers and re-varnish them every year will soon see them off, and since it’s easier to replace a Traveller’s entire woodwork than it is to patch it up, the bills can soon mount up – budget at least £2000 to replace
a Traveller’s woodwork in its entirety.

Check the rear doors, too: sourcing a sound single door to replace a rotten original sounds sensible, but getting mismatched doors to align can prove extremely difficult in practice.

Elsewhere, the common Traveller rot-spots are much the same as the saloon’s. Repair panels for the aluminium rear bodywork are available, but not the (also aluminium) roof. Check for corrosion in the rear spring hangers and chassis extensions and front chassis legs. Obvious sill covers should start alarm bells ringing, too, likewise bodged inner wing repairs. Remember, too, that while there is some panel interchangeability between models, the Traveller’s doors are shared only with the convertible and two-door saloon.

ENGINE

The earliest Travellers use the simple, but gutless 803cc sidevalve engine – these are popular with collectors, but struggle to cope with modern traffic and are arguably best avoided. Indeed, they are frequently retro-fitted with either the sweet-revving and durable 948cc or more potent 1098cc OHV engines. The former is refined and can reach over 150,000 miles between re-builds, while the latter has more power and torque.

Signs of wear to look out for include oily exhaust smoke under load or on the overrun (worn cylinder bores), overly vocal tappets (they might just need adjusting, but could be approaching the end of their useful lives) and ominous knocking sounds (often from a bottom end that’s about to expire). Ignore rattling (for which read ‘loose’) timing chains or an oil pressure warning light that’s slow to extinguish at your peril, too.

RUNNING GEAR

By their very nature, these cars can lead hard lives, so an overly low ride-height suggests sagging or broken rear leaf springs. Bouncy lever-arm suspension is all part of the Minor driving experience, but stiffness in the front suspension often betrays trunnions that haven’t been greased at the proper intervals (every 3000 miles) and are therefore worn. Finding a car that’s been converted to telescopic dampers is desirable.

The gearbox is a known weakness on all Minors, although the ribbed casing transmission fitted to 1098cc cars is the toughest of the lot. None has synchromesh on first gear, but synchros on the other gears wear with alarming ease, so watch out for crunches during the road-test. Unless you’re a stickler for originality, don’t be put off by cars fitted with a Ford Type 9 five-speed gearbox – it’s as tough as they come and the tall fifth gear makes 80mph cruising possible on the 1098cc cars.

INTERIOR

Minor interiors are simple and hard-wearing, but even a car with a shabby cabin is worth considering if the price is right, thanks to impressive aftermarket support. Common problems include a damaged or sagging driver’s seat, tears in the upholstery and worn out luggage area carpets. The dashboard instruments are common to other group cars of the period, too, and are easily re-built. 

Curiously, the only item of trim that regularly causes problems is the indicator stalk, which on later models has a habit of overheating and causing the plastic to melt. Stalks with the green flashing tip are super-rare these days, too.

Perished door or window rubbers can allow water in, so check for rotten floor coverings and a general smell of dampness or mustiness.

OUR VERDICT

The days of decent Moggies coming onto the market for peanuts may be long gone (indeed, you can pay up to £17,000 for a really good one today), but they remain cheap to maintain, easy to work on and mechanically straightforward. Parts supplies are second to none, too. Get yourself a properly sorted 1098cc Traveller, and we can think of no better all-round practical classic car bargain.

MORRIS MINOR REVIEW

The Morris Minor was launched at the Earls Court Motor Show in 1948 against a background of austerity in Britain, where fuel rationing was still very much a reality. It represented a shift away from the large capacity cars that were popular before the war towards the smaller, more frugal motorcar. The man to spearhead this revolution was Sir Alec Issigonis – who would go on to perform the same trick years later when he designed the Mini.

The first series of cars are known as MM models, and were in production from 1948 to 1953. Though they were originally designed to carry a flat-four engine, late in the design process this was changed to the 918cc Morris sidevalve engine that was found in the Morris 8. The motor produced 27.5bhp and allowed the Minor a top speed of 64mph, but the main selling point was its fuel economy – it drank one gallon every 33 miles. Initially the Minor was only offered as a two or four-door saloon, but by 1950 a four-seat tourer had been added to the lineup, offering the British public budget top-down motoring.

By 1952 the now antiquated ‘split screen’ Minor was very dated. A heater was only offered as an option with the introduction of a proper water pump late in the run, and the sidevalve engine was reaching the end of its life cycle. So it was that the updated Series II car began production in 1952. Aside from the one-piece windscreen, the most notable change was the engine – disposing of the asthmatic sidevalve of the Morris 8 in favour of the new 803cc A-series overhead valve design, which was developed for the Minor rival, the Austin A30.As well as the engine improvements, the model range was also updated with the addition of pickup, convertible and van variants – and of course, the ever popular Traveller.

In 1956 the Morris Minor received another well-needed revamp. Though the ageing looks were left practically untouched, vital upgrades were made to modernise the car including the addition of indicators (in place of the old trafficators) and an increase in engine capacity to 948cc. This gave the Minor fractionally more real world performance at a time when other cars of the day were becoming quicker and quicker.

By 1961 the millionth Minor had been produced, and by way of celebration BMC launched a commemorative model, the Minor Million. Every Minor Million featured the same Lilac bodywork and white interior combination, and were only available in two-door configuration. In total only 350 of these cars were produced, and as such will command a premium over a standard Minor in comparative condition. Almost 50 years before Skoda created their Fabia from cake, Morris had done the same, delivering a Minor Million – made from entirely edible components – to the Great Ormond Street Hospital.

By 1962 the Minor received its last major updates – notably an increase in engine capacity to 1098cc. Though it didn’t improve fuel economy, it did offer much more spirited performance, and these cars are the most usable on today’s roads.

Prices start at around £1000 for a Minor saloon in usable condition, but budget double that for a smart car. Restoration costs can mount, so it’s a good idea to buy the best your budget will allow.

When you get into a Fintail, you can’t fail to be impressed by how spacious it is, especially compared with modern cars. You sit high up on a fairly firm seat and the wheel in front of you with its chrome horn ring seems just huge. Then there’s that extraordinary vertical strip speedometer, a column change (in most cars) and an umbrella handbrake under the dash.

None of the engines is particularly quiet, a failing of most OHC designs of the time. Worn engines can be very noisy at the top end, though. The gears slot in nicely, although the intermediates don’t feel ideally spaced. Automatics work well enough but the changes can be a bit rough. 

On the road, you’ll quickly adapt to the car’s natural rhythm. The suspension is very soft, and on later cars a Boge self-levelling strut at the rear was used to prevent tail-end droop when laden. All that of course makes for plenty of suspension wallow over bumps and plenty of cornering roll, but a Fintail soon begins to feel right, and after a while you’ll forget how old the car is and will settle down to enjoying the drive. That’s it – you’re hooked!

VITAL STATISTICS

MORRIS MINOR 1000

Engine                                    1098cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  48bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 60lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed                                77mph

0-60mph                                  22.2sec

Consumption                           38mpg

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Hot spots for corrosion are: sills, wheelarches, headlamp fixings, bumpers, panel gaps, door hinges and wings. All manner of rust can be hiding on the underside of the car, too. Your best bet is to inspect the bodywork as thoroughly as possible and in good light.  

Woodwork on Traveller estates requires attention, as it is prone to rotting if the car hasn’t been cared for. Look out for discolouration or softness, particularly where the different sections join together (below).  

The suspension components need greasing regularly – as often as every 3000 miles is recommended. Let it slack, and the trunnions and swivel pins can wear out quickly, but this isn’t fatal as replacements are cheap and easy to find. The leaf spring set-up at the rear is pretty archaic, and many owners have swapped the lower arm dampers for telescopic items. However, the dampers can rub against the tyres if they haven’t been fitted correctly.

ENGINE

Listen out for a deep thudding sound when starting the engine. If this is evident until the oil light goes out then the bearings in the engine are probably worn, which may necessitate a rebuild. 

Remove the radiator cap and have a look at the coolant inside. If you can see any traces of oil on top of the coolant then there may be a head gasket problem. The usual check for a white and creamy residue on the inside of the oil filler cap will also affirm any issues with the head.  

ELECTRICS

The electrics are incredibly simple, so there’s not much to worry about other than age-related wear or bodged stereo fittings. Cars that see regular use will benefit from modern additions like an alternator, electric screen washer and halogen headlamps, so don’t be surprised or scared off by such upgrades, as they’re usually worthwhile. 

RUNNING GEAR

Don’t worry about a slight whirring sound when accelerating in first gear. This is perfectly normal and is simply a characteristic of the Morris. What should cause concern is a grinding noise, which indicates wear in the gearbox. 

BRAKES

All Minors came with front and rear drum brakes, which are fine as long as they’re set-up correctly and in good condition. Retrofitted front disc brakes and a servo aren’t uncommon and, again, are fine as long as the work has been done properly. Problems are more likely to come from the brake master cylinder, which sits under the driver’s footwell and is exposed to road debris. Swapping them is easy enough. 

INTERIOR

Interiors will obviously vary dramatically from car to car, but don’t be too worried about a cabin that’s a little rough around the edges. Trim is readily available and very cheap, so sourcing new bits is rarely an issue. Bakelite switches found on early models are the only components that are tricky to track down, but more durable plastic replacements are available. Series I and II cars came with leather trim, while later models got vinyl. Retrofitted leather isn’t uncommon on later cars. 

OUR VERDICT

There’s a wonderful chumminess about the Morris Minor, a car that seesm to so perfectly sum up happy family life in the 60s.

The curvaceous, sit-up-and-beg looks, friendly face and everyman image render it one of the most affable classic cars around. That’s far from the extent of its appeal though, as the Moggy proved hugely popular when it arrived in 1948, then known as the MM or Low Light because the headlamps originally sat low down in the grille. 

The saloon and the Tourer (convertible) were the first versions on the market, but when the Series II Minor appeared in 1952, the Traveller estate version followed a year later. Its external ash frame added an extra dose of charm and Travellers are now the most coveted of all Minors. 

Over 1.3 million were built, so it’s still very easy to find a Minor in any kind of condition. We defy you not to be able to find one, even locally, such is their enduring popularity. Fantastically simple engines, a huge parts supply and strong club support make ownership all the more attractive, too.

If you must have an early Minor then be prepared to hunt for a good one and set aside some time to look for parts and get to your destinations. For many, the easy going appeal of the later 1000 will prevail. It is neither difficult, nor expensive to come by a tidy example, and there are so many around that you can afford to be picky. 

Mint Travellers can change hands for £10,000, which seems like a lot for a Moggy, but that puts their increasing desirability into perspective. 

We reckon that £5000 for a Minor 1000 in good nick is a reasonable price, and one that could pay dividends in years to come if the cars continue to grow in value. The timeless appeal of the Morris means that it probably will, too. 

MORRIS MINOR CONVERTIBLE REVIEW

For many this represents the ultimate cool British tourer, but finding an original condition car or quality conversion can be troublesome. Here’s our guide to avoid the pitfalls.

The Morris Minor convertible or tourer has always been seen as the cream of the crop and as such demands a premium – especially if it is an original white one.

Perhaps it represented a sturdier answer to the sportier tourers of the day or was it the constant lovable TV exposure through series from Man About The House to Lovejoy?

The Morris Minor was memorably launched at the 1948 Earl’s Court Motor Show, available initially as a two-door, four-seater saloon or convertible. While Alec Issigonis was rightly praised for this new ‘modern’ car, the name revived that carried by a vehicle dating back to 1928, while the idea of an open top tourer was also a homage to the pre-war Morris Eight tradition.

While not perhaps an obvious choice as a competition car, BMC were deliberately selective what events they entered tourers in, i.e. ones in which they thought they might stand a ghost of a chance. The late Pat Moss, sister of Stirling, successfully rallied Minors and owned a green 1966 convertible.

Souped-up and modified Minor convertibles appeal to those wishing to turn-round the traditional matronly image of the much-loved classic.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

The Morris Minor monocoque body is a well-known harbourer of rot that often begins on the inside and works its way out. As with all Minors, the whole underside needs careful inspection, together with the rear chassis extensions, rear spring hangers and front chassis legs. Sourcing replacement bolt-on panels and parts is not often a problem, but if there is too much that requires replacing it’s best to look at another car.  With a convertible it is obviously necessary to check the triangular strengthening panels at the base of the B posts, double-strength boxing plates inside the sills, and the strengthening gussets welded at either side of the dashboard. Sagging or misaligned doors should suggest further investigation.

A properly carried out conversion offers nothing to be afraid of, but there have been some poor attempts that can frankly result in a potential death trap. If you are in any doubt, either leave the car alone or get an expert to inspect it for you. Check the cut of the panel at the top of the window screen, on a genuine convertible the panel will be spot welded into place and there should not be any holes for a courtesy light. The chassis number for later genuine convertibles (June-1958 to June 1969) should carry the prefix MAT… The final convertible chassis number was 1254328.

Tourers shared the same trim as their saloon equivalent but because of their exposure to the elements, are potentially prone to more discolouration, wear and tear. It can prove to be expensive to replace. Some original materials, such as the Carvel style carpet is no longer available and while modern substitutes are offered, they rarely match the quality of the real thing. As the position of the gear lever changed with successive model updates, you need to check you have the right fit when ordering carpet sets. At least you don’t have to worry about a headlining!

The state and fit of the roof, its frame and lifting mechanism obviously requires careful checking. Due to the age of the cars in question, many convertibles will have had either work done to them or been replaced – so inspect them carefully. See the roof in both the raised and lowered position and check for fit on the outside and inside. As well as the mechanical side and ride values, another reason for taking a test drive is to see how effective the hood fits and also to experience what its like with it down. Replacement vinyl factory style hoods and frames are available from specialists. It is possible to fit a new hood yourself, but it might be best to leave it to the experts. An original item was a hood-bag to cover the hood when it was folded down and there was even a special storage bag to hold the detachable side screens for the early models.

In all other aspects, the convertible shares everything with the saloon. Very early models are rare and there’s much to be said for a car with a 948cc engine (1956-1962) with contemporary gearbox. The later 1098cc engine (1962-1971) fitted cars will help you keep up with the traffic. Some Minors have been subjected to 1275cc engine transplants and if this is the case make sure the front brakes have been upgraded to discs.

White is the preferred colour for Minor tourers and many have been re-sprayed to meet demand, so just make sure they’ve made a good job of it.

VITAL STATISTICS

ENGINE 948cc/4-cylOHV

POWER 37bhp@4750rpm

TORQUE 48lb ft@3000rpm

MAXIMUM SPEED 73mph

0-60MPH 19sec

FUEL CONSUMPTION 36-40mpg

TRANSMISSION RWD/four-speed manual

OUR VERDICT

For many the Morris Minor convertible is the ONE to own – reflecting a true-Brit passion and potential miscalculation of the number of days you want to drive around with the top down without the back-up of a decent heating source.

Early tourers took the prospect of driving along with the ‘wind in your hair’ to a new level with their detachable celluloid hood screen sides. Fixed rear window were introduced from June 1951.

There is such a big parts and club support network for Morris Minors, that you are never alone with a ‘Moggy’. A growing number of specialists can provide essential items such as replacement vinyl hoods and frames, while offering a fitting service for those requiring it.

Production of convertibles continued until June 1969, so ironically the most sought after models was the first variation to go. With a finite amount of original convertibles available, the number of conversions on the market has obviously increased. A well carried out conversion provides a suitable alternative, just make sure it is a pukka job.

There’s no doubt that the Morris Minor Convertible is one of the great British classics – as the smile on any long-term owner’s face will confirm.

MORRIS MINOR 1000 REVIEW

The Minor is a stalwart of the classic car movement. We look at buying, and how the Minor continues to charm

Early Minors require some dedication. The earliest MMs are thoroughly charming, but remarkably slow. The Series II is a little perkier, but that’s more down to short gearing than anything – travelling at more than 45mph is quite painful, even more so in a Traveller. So, go for a later Minor 1000 for a more comfortable life. A faster speed is achievable and you can really begin to enjoy the wonderful steering and fabled handling. Do be warned though – the simple ‘cart spring’ rear axle is not in the same league as Issigonis’ front suspension design, and it is possible to unsteady it if you corner too hard. There are also a great many modifications out there – braking is one area that the Minor never really excelled. However, piloting a Minor really is one of life’s true pleasures. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Morris Minor 1000

Engine                                    1098cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  48bhp@5100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 60lb ft@2500rpm

Top speed                                77mph

0-60mph                                  25sec

Consumption                            35mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Corrosion is far more costly to remedy than mechanical faults. Start right at the front. The crossmember behind the front valance carries tied rods to secure the front suspension. Check for rust but also poor plating repairs. During 1950-1951, raised headlamps were phased in; lighting was improved but new rust areas created. Check for bubbling beneath the paint, though some cars may wear glassfibre wings – the fit of which can be variable. 

Door bottoms are very easy to check. 

A repair section is only £20, but that cost will rise significantly if you’re paying someone to fit it and repaint the door. Check the sill too, and give the carpeted inside edge a good squeeze. You should definitely check the floors, which will also give a feel for whether the car leaks. Underneath, there’s a crossmember that runs the full width of the car: examine this carefully, below and above, and the chassis rails that run forward from it, either side
of the engine.

Returning underneath, check the rear chassis rails, which are closer to the edge of the body than those at the front. Suspension spring hangers also need close inspection, and check for broken leaf springs while you’re under there. ESM sells a replacement spring hanger section for £34. The boot floor often rots just behind the bumper, and check the inner wings too. Watch also for bubbling around the seams for the rear wings. 

ENGINE

Initially, the Minor used the 918cc sidevalve engine from the Morris Eight. Listen out for tired bearings and watch for blue smoke, though it’s a very easy engine to work on. As a result of the merger between Austin and Morris in 1952 to form BMC, the Minor received Austin power that year – the first 803cc incarnation of the fabled A-series engine. It isn’t that good to be honest, with white metal crankshaft bearings that do not appreciate long high-speed journeys. Listen out for deep knocks from the bottom end. Many Series IIs have received later engines, but not always the longer-legged gearboxes that went with them. The ‘1000’ 948cc and 1098cc engines are much stronger, the latter accompanied by a stronger gearbox too. There’s no first gear synchromesh on any Minor, but the 1000 used a remote gearlever. Check the other gears for an easy change and listen out for excessive transmission whine over and above the usual (and extremely familiar) Minor tune.

INTERIOR

Travellers naturally need a thorough check of the wood. Look for dark patches suggesting that moisture has got in. Check any iffy-looking areas for softness. Some sections can be replaced fairly easily, but a complete overhaul won’t leave much change from £3000.

OUR VERDICT

The Minor is charming and delightful to drive, exceedingly simple to work on and boasts huge club and specialist support. The Morris Minor Owners’ Club is also very keen to attract younger members, to ensure the Minor continues, 66 years after production began.

MORRIS MARINA REVIEW

Has the Marina truly gained classic status, four decades after its launch?

When British Leyland sets out to create a beautiful car, you get the Morris Marina.’ Um, yes. So ran the tagline BL’s advertising campaign for the Marina, begging the question of what would happen if British Leyland deliberately set out to design something that wasn’t beautiful. Answers on a postcard with an Allegro on the front, please.

To be fair to the Morris Marina, it was designed to be a middle-of-the-road motor, all the better to battle the conventional Cortina, thus leaving Austin as the avant garde innovator of the BL family. And this 1971 successor to the Minor didn’t do that badly in the marketplace, selling close to a million. Available in 1275cc and 1798cc form – and, from 1978, with a 1695cc O-series engine too – the Marina came in saloon and coupé formats; at least nobody could say punters didn’t have a wide choice. Now, however, the Marina has become one of the epitomes of Seventies automotive cool, finally appreciated because it does stand out as an icon of its epoch. Why buy an MGB when you can get the same engine in a Marina coupé with even wilder handling for a lot less money? Welcome to British Leyland’s Mustang…

VITAL STATISTICS

1971 Marina 1.8 TC

Engine                                    1798cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  95bhp@5250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 106lb ft@2600rpm

Top speed                                100mph

0-60mph                                  12sec

Consumption                            25mpg 

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Coming as it does from the golden age of British Leyland, it’s not really surprising that Marinas rust both outside and in, thanks to poor weather sealing that allows water into the boot and the interior. Sills corrode from their edges inwards, which will then spread to the floorpans and wheelarches. Front wings are another weak spot – they’ll go towards their trailing edge, as well as just above the headlamps. Look for trouble in the headlamp panels themselves, as well as the valance, both front and rear. Under the bonnet, search for signs of rust beneath the hinge mounts.

Some Marinas had stainless steel wheelarch trims; nice to look at, even better at promoting tinworm. But a Marina arch is perfectly capable of corroding even without the trim, especially the rear ones. Search for signs of trouble in the inner arches as well, not just what is easy to see on the outside.

Blocked drainholes will cause the bottom of the doors to frizz, and the hinges also wear out, causing the doors to drop when opened. It’s most likely to occur on the oft-opened fronts.

Inside, check underneath the carpets and mats for a rusty floorpan; a leaking windscreen will let in water. Another area where damp infiltrates is under the vinyl roof (if fitted), so feel for crunchiness, especially at the edges of the covering. Don’t forget to look in the boot the corners like to corrode, and with them go the jacking points and the rear spring hangers. The boot lid edges corrode, and rear lamp panels go too, something else which allows water into the boot to wreak havoc.

ENGINE

Three engines populated the Marina’s engine bay the good old 1275cc A-series and the 1798cc B-series beloved of MGB owners were available from launch, the O-series unit of 1695cc popped up in 1978. The A-series is a tough enough unit, although it has its work cut out with the heavy Marina. Look for signs of oil being burnt and listen for nasty noises from within, although you should also expect some tappet and timing chain chatter. It’s an A-series, they all do that. The B-series engine suffers similar ailments – smoke on the overrun is the biggest pointer to a failing powerplant – but should last longer than the A-series because it is less stressed. The O-series unit has few issues so long as the cambelt has been changed every 48,000 miles – or even earlier, if you want to be on the safe side.

RUNNING GEAR

Manual transmissions tend to wear out their linkages quite easily, with first gear often difficult to reach unless you go via second. Gearboxes don’t generally last that long, with failing synchromesh a sure sign of advanced wear, along with noisy first and reverse gears. Clutch judder is quite common as well, the culprits being worn gearbox mountings, propshaft universal joints, failing rear shock absorbers or rear antiroll bar bushes that have seen better days. If you hear a creaking when the clutch is pressed, the operating fork is probably cracked; ultimately it will break and you’ll lose the ability to change gear altogether. Hydraulics also play up, through leaks and the slave cylinder mounting bracket breaking. Elsewhere, propshaft centre bearings split, differentials leak (which will lead to whining) and the universal joint at the back of the propshaft can seize. A squeal when the clutch is taken up points to the spigot bearing in the flywheel needing lubrication. A limited number of Marinas had automatic transmissions, which, by contrast, have few major foibles, but they are difficult to find.

BRAKES

Front and rear anti-roll bars came along in 1975, and these cars handle far better than their predecessors. Heavy steering is often the result of seized swivel pins, which should be greased every 3000 miles. Try to ascertain if this has been done, and look for uneven tyre wear as further evidence of it not having been carried out. Worn tie rod bushes will also cause this, although this will probably be accompanied by steering vibration too. That said, worn wheel bearings also have this symptom, although you’ll usually hear a drone to accompany it. Pre-1975, 1.3 cars had brake drums all round, but from October of that year, discs were fitted to the front of all models. Look for a car with a servo too – some pre-1974 models didn’t have one. Aside from the automatic adjusters playing up on some early Marinas, the brakes are usually well-behaved.

INTERIOR

Marina interiors often look tatty, so buy the best you can. Cloth seats split or go baggy, while vinyl ones will crack, especially the top of the rear seats, which can get damaged by the sun. The big, bright ball of fire in the sky also affects dashboard tops.

Carpets wear out quite easily. And any electrical faults are likely to be earthing problems or else corroded connections, as these are quite simple machines when it comes to electrics.

OUR VERDICT

Like Marmite and Milton Keynes, you either love the Marina or hate it. If you’re in the latter camp, then nothing you’ve read here will change your mind. However, if you understand the whole kitsch kudos of a Seventies Marina – which have now become a motoring legend of the decade which coughed them out – then we’re wondering why you haven’t already bought at least two already? After all, at these sort of prices, it’s almost rude not to.

MORRIS ISIS REVIEW

Morris first used the Isis name on one of its six-cylinder cars from 1929 until 1935, but it wasn’t until well after the Second World War that the moniker resurfaced. After the demise of the Pinocchio-nosed Minor-on-pies lookalike that was the Morris Six in 1954, BMC performed a similar trick with the Oxford; lengthening its bonnet and wheelbase so that the six-cylinder Austin A90 engine could be snugly fitted inside to create the Isis. The result was the best-performing Morris yet, although that did only mean a top speed of 90mph from the 90bhp the car eventually ended up with.

The Series 1 incarnation ran from 1955 to 1956, only notching up 8500 sales. In many ways, it was too similar to the Austin Westminster, which did far better for BMC sales-wise. The Series 2 revamp in 1956 – incorporating the updates used on the Oxford – did little to boost interest; despite rear wings now displaying fins plus the option of an automatic transmission or overdrive on the manual cars. Only 3614 managed to find homes before Morris gave up and dropped the Isis altogether. A six-cylinder Morris wouldn’t return to the catalogues until the Landcrab-based 2200 of 1972…

Probably the most attractive iant of the Isis was the wood-panelled Traveller estate, built in very small numbers. Nowadays though, any Isis is a rare survivor. 

MORRIS COWLEY REVIEW

The Cowley name has an interesting and complex history and was given to several Morris cars, featuring from 1915 to 1958. The first car to use the name was the 1915 Cowley, sometimes known as the ‘bullnose’. It featured a 1495cc four cylinder American engine, along with several other American running gear parts. These parts were originally selected due to the American parts being cheaper to buy, but world war one badly affected the supplies of these parts. 

Due to the impact of the war, the 1919 Morris Cowley had to change engine supplier to the French Hotchkiss Company, which was incidentally based upon the 1495cc American engine of the previous Cowley. 

In 1926 the next version of the Cowley began production, with the most notable change being that it had got rid of the ‘bullnose’ radiator and replaced it with a flat nose style more fashionable at the time.  New suspension and drum brakes were added to the car to keep it up to date, and the chassis was modified again in 1931. 

The next generation of Cowley’s spanned from 1931 to 1950 with not much changing mechanically or aesthetically.  There was now a larger 1802cc engine available and the four seat tourers were scrapped from the line-up. 

The 1954-1959 Morris Cowley was probably the most known and most significant of the range.  This Cowley was a basic version of the Morris Oxford, without such luxuries as a heater. Smaller front brakes were used and early models were only made available with a 1200cc engine.  In this time frame the Morris was converted into two types of commercial vehicle, a van and a pick-up. The pick-up was sold in Australia and known as a Morris Cowley Utility, and is an early example of a ‘ute.

The latest Cowley also provided the base for Hindustan Ambassador. The Ambassador started production in India in 1958 and is still being produced now. Although engines have changed and style has been modified slightly, the basic underpinnings remain the same.