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Mercedes-Benz

Mercedes Benz 500 Review

Launched in 1981 the Mercedes Benz 500SEC was the initial flagship of the W126 Mercedes S-class range. Strictly speaking, as a Coupe the SEC is known as the C126, though in practice most enthusiasts forget such technicalities. Customers for new SECs would have included company directors, football managers and millionaires after something a little more subtle than the Royce – but nowadays they’re seriously cheap for what they are.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

All panels are C126-specific; no saloon skins here. Wheel trims and alloy wheels are carried over – and the general style of the car is similar to the four door iants. Ribbed rear lights were designed to discourage the accumulation of dirt and little shields ahead of the door handles helped stop them from leaving filthy deposits on the hands of the chosen few. The A-pillars were braced to the bulkhead by steel rods, a device which ensured the car was solid enough to forego B-posts; as with every Mercedes coupe since the Sixties. The rear screen seal is a weak spot, causing rotten bulkheads by virtue of leaks – open the boot of any car you go to see and look up under the back window! Whilst round the back of the car you may as well check the condition of the rear screen itself. They’re available, but at a price.

Engines

 

Powered by a 5.0 litre variant of the Mercedes M117 V8, the 500SEC is more than ample for most drivers. Owners report that the engine is easy to maintain, reliable, and diagnosis of any issues is relatively straightforward.  Spares are available from Mercedes Benz if required, but Merc spares don’t come cheap. If running a 126 on a budget we advise you find a local Mercedes specialist. If the car still has its original plastic radiator, chemicals used in some coolants can damage it. Many will have had them replaced, but either way the upper hose neck is known for failure.

Running Gear

Although SECs never got hydropneumatic suspension, and the swinging-caliper brakes are unique to SECs, most other mechanical parts are shared with the rest of the W126 range. This means they’re both tough and easy to source. Whilst the steering ratio was altered to give a more engaging feel, steering components are interchangeable.

Interior

Not much wood, but lots of leather – check every inch for nicks, tears, or other damage. Retrims are not cheap. Many cars came with velour, which is less desirable but less prone to tears. C126s are packed full of toys – make sure it all works; the more broken gadgets the costlier the car will be to put back to how it should be.  Dashboards are shared with the W126 saloons, though the revcounter replaced the analog clock in saloon models; a digital timepiece in the centre of the speedo serving to show the driver just how much time he’d made up. The seats are not common to the saloons, with the fronts featuring a pneumatic locking system to hold the squab up whilst the car was in motion as well as full electric operation. Many were trimmed in velour, but leather trim makes a car easier to sell on later.

OUR VERDICT

Because you want to treat yourself. An SEC will make you feel like a lottery winner, for far less than you’d think. Being an old Merc, the sense of solidity is ever-apparent, you feel indestructible in one of these old barges. People say Mercs are competent but bland – and yet a large, two door superbarge seems to confound this view. Could it even have a soul? We think so. It’s certainly amongst the bargains of the century.

What Should I Pay?

Project £750

Usable £3000

Nice £8000

Concours £9750

Vital Statistics

Engine – 4973cc, V8, OHC

Power - 295bhp@5000rpm

Torque - 294lb/ft@3750rpm

Top Speed – 141mph

0-60mph – 6.8 seconds

Economy – 18 mpg

Gearbox – four speed auto

MERCEDES-BENZ 124 REVIEW

2014 marks three decades since the introduction of the W124, yet few people consider it a bona fide classic. It’s easy to see why; there are lots of them still in daily use, whereas most classics are seen primarily at shows. But the W124’s popularity as everyday transport is testament to its usability; when it comes to over-engineered cars that offer everything you could need in one affordable package, it has few peers.

Offered in saloon, estate, coupé and convertible guises, the W124 represents spectacular value in its ious guises. That includes the two-door cars, but here we’ll focus on the saloon and estate, which offer unparalleled usability.

Launched in October 1985, at first there were saloons only, in 200, 230E, 260E and 300E flavours – or there was a 250D diesel. By April 1986 there was an estate with the same engine choices. In September 1988 the 200 gained fuel injection to become the 200E and the 300E became the 24-valve 300E-24. The 300TD estate replaced the 250TD in February 1990 then seven months later all cars got a catalytic converter as standard.

The big changes came in October 1992; that’s when all W124 engines were updated with four-valve cylinder heads. The 200E got a multi-valve head, the 230E was replaced by the 220E and the 280E replaced the 260E. at the same time, the 320E replaced the 300E and the 4Matic four-wheel drive option was dropped; it had been offered since April 1988 but proved unpopular. Such cars are now very rare.

A facelift in August 1993 saw the E become a prefix rather than a suffix (E320 rather than 320E for example), and it’s these cars, with their clear indicator lenses, colour-coded lower panels and bonnet-mounted mascot (it was previously set in the grille) that most buyers want. Buy one of these with all the right options (standard cars could be pretty basic) and you’ll have all the classic you could ever need.

VITAL STATISTICS

E320 saloon
 

Engine                                      3199cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                     220@5500

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    228@3750

Top speed                                142mph

0-60mph                                   7.0sec

Consumption                            24mpg

Gearbox                                   4/5-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The bodywork tends to last well, but check the front wings where they meet the bumper along with the inner wing under the washer bottle, the rear wheelarches and the jacking points. For the latter you’ll have to remove each of the covers to get a proper view.


ENGINE

The eight-valve four-cylinder engines (200 and 220) will cover huge mileages and are frugal too, but are a bit underpowered, especially in the estate. The multi-valve E220 is the best four-pot as it’s reliable, economical and more muscular. The diesels are also incredibly long-lived and very fuel-efficient – but they’re not all that unrefined. Best of all are the six-cylinder powerplants (260E and 300E initially, then the multi-valve E280 and E320). These are much smoother, torquier and suit the car far better. Pick of the bunch is the E320, which is already the most desirable and will always be the most collectible.

The front timing seal leaks on the earlier six-cylinder engines. These can be fixed with the engine in situ, for around £350. Distributor caps and rotor arms are weak; OE parts cost £100 and you should expect to replace these every three years or so depending on how the car is stored and driven. The fuel injection can also play up because of wear in the fuel distribution units and injectors along with vacuum leaks. Repair costs can y wildly.
 

ELECTRICS

The E280 and E320 have a wiring harness for the engine which has biodegradable sheathing. This degrades leading to misfires then costs around £1000 to fix. The price for the loom ies according to the car’s spec – it can be anywhere between £400-800, plus VAT and fitting. These engines can also suffer from head gasket leaks. Bank on spending £1200 to fix these, as you’ll probably have to do the valve stem seals at the same time – and if that harness hasn’t been replaced, you may well have to do that too. Also check the rubber engine mounts, as these can fail; new ones cost £75.60 each (four-cylinder) or £99.60 for six-cylinder items.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Most of these cars have an automatic gearbox but there are some manuals; the latter are rare and not very sought after but all W124 transmissions are bullet-proof. They all benefit from a fluid change every 25,000 miles, although the factory recommends every 40,000 miles. Back axles are strong, although estate units can eventually wear, especially if the car is used for towing. Estate diffs feature stronger bearings but the same ratios, although the ratios are different between four and six-cylinder models.

All of these cars came with power steering and unusually there’s a box rather than a rack. Leaks from the power steering pumps are rare and the boxes are reliable. Expect a bit of play in the box after a huge mileage, but this can usually be adjusted out.


BRAKES

Brakes are very reliable with nothing to worry about. All estates got self-levelling rear suspension as standard. The metal pipework for this corrodes and access is poor so the rear subframe has to be dropped - then you end up replacing all of the bushes at the same time. OE parts are expensive, but you have to use OE parts or you’ll end up having to do the job more than once.


INTERIOR

Interiors tend to wear very well. Many W124s have leather trim, but cloth is far from unusual. Predictably, it’s the driver’s seat bolster that’s most likely to be worn, but only after a huge mileage. Carpets last well and so does the switchgear and instrumentation. New parts are very costly, but there are lots of good used parts available as many W124s have been broken.

OUR VERDICT

After owning a W124, anything else will seem under-engineered. There are lots to choose from, but many are neglected and parts costs can be high.  As always you must single out a cherished car and be prepared to invest in OE parts to keep it running. And that’s just what it’ll do; it’ll keep going forever.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ 280-SL

The Mercedes-Benz 280 SL is indeed part of a very special lineage, starting with the infamous 300 SL 'Gull-Wing' continuing to cars such as the present day SL 55 AMG. The design of te 280 SL was orginally badged as the 230 SL in 1963. The Mercedes 230 SL was then rebadged as the 250 SL and finally, in 1967, rebadged again as the 280 SL as engine capacity rose once more. The Mercedes 280SL is widely regarded as a beautifully crafted sports tourer, the design of which is timeless. The two-seater (available with an optional, sideways facing, 'jump seat' in the rear) was powered by a 2778cc engine, using 6 cylinders to ensure a smooth driving experience. Although not available as a coupe, Mercedes-Benz did offer the option of a 'pagoda roof' removable hard top. The full choice of roofs was a soft top, a soft top with the removable hard top, or a removable hard top without the soft top underneath. Due to owners of the latter option having to be pretty confident of the weather before they took their cars out with the roof off, this option was less popular at dealers based in northern Europe and the U.K and as such earned the nickname 'the Californian'. Standard equipment on the 280SL was impressive for the time, included were all round disc brakes, tachometer, 3 point safety harnesses, wood trim and a clock. Although most cars built were fitted with 4-speed manual gear boxes, there are a few rare examples to be found that were fitted with 5-speed boxes. Parts and accessories for the Mercedes 280 SL are still quite easy to come by. Due to the prestige nature of the car there are several highly recommended and well established owners clubs and may parts are still available direct from Mercedes. Mercedes-Benz ended production of the 280 SL in 1971.

MERCEDES-BENZ 300SL REVIEW

The 300SL Gullwing was born out of motorsport, and was first built in 1952 for sports car races. It was only made available as a road car when the motor racing had finished. Road car production began in 1954 and ended in 1957 with a total of only 1,402 Gullwings being made. The Gullwing has the unfamiliar door style chosen because this was the only door that would fit the new tubular chassis. 

The 201bhp Gullwing did offer some firsts in the way of technology, being the first 4 cycle gas injection car sold to the public. It also included a tubular space frame offering light weight and unrivalled strength. The car had an extremely low and aerodynamic body, thanks to mounting the engine at a 50 degree angle. All gears also featured synchromesh, which was unheard of at the time. One odd feature of the Gullwing Mercedes is the inclusion of a passenger horn button.

With the cars unusual Gullwing style doors and its racing heritage it was a recipe for money to be made. Daimler’s official importer to the USA, Max Hoffman suggested to Daimler-Benz that a road going version in America would be a commercial success. Although Daimler originally said no due to the fact that it would cost almost double the amount of a Jaguar, Hoffman pressed his point and eventually got his way.

Over 80% of the cars produced were sold, making it the first Mercedes to sell in bulk outside of its home market.

The 300SL was eligible for FIA’s international sports contests in Class 2 Grand Touring. The most famous win the 300SL achieved was a 1st and 2nd in the 1955 Mille Miglia courtesy of John Fitch and Oliver Gendebein respectively.

MERCEDES-BENZ 600 REVIEW

The Mercedes-Benz 600 is assembled on a separate line and primarily by hand. No car is made without a specific order. Accordingly it is possible to comply with additional requests, even those which are not contained in the list of special accessories. Mercedes top of the range model, the 1963 newcomer featured an overhead camshaft fuel injected 6.3-litre V8 self levelling air suspension with iable ride control two three-phase current generators limited slip differential twin-circuit hydraulic brake system twin brake calipers to front four-speed automatic transmission all round disc brakes adjustable steering wheel for rake power assisted steering push-button hydraulic opening and closing of front and rear door windows and central rear side windows, central locking, outside-air thermometer, and separate heating / ventilation systems for front and rear compartments. Built in saloon and 7/8-seater limousine forms with either a 10 6 or 12 10 wheelbase, the Saloon measured 18 2, and 20 6 in Pullman form. A highly respectable performer, it could reach 60mph in under 10 seconds and 125mph. 2,190 saloons and 487 Pullman limousines were built in all, production ceasing in 1981, this model having the largest unit-construction body ever built by Mercedes. Rarer still in six-door form.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ FINTAIL

The Hillman Avenger arrived on the UK market in 1970, production ending in 1981 with around 640,000 rolling off the Ryton and Linwood production lines.  Launched with a range of 1248 and 1498cc engines, a live rear axle, and a four-speed manual gearbox, the Avenger plugged a gap in Hillman’s range above the small Imp while providing a competitor to the popular Ford Cortina. Trim levels were initially DL, Super, and GL but regular updates followed including, in 1972, an estate variant and the (relatively) plush GLS trim.    

Careful design meant it was safer than most competitors and, while thoroughly conventional for the time, the Avenger nevertheless provided a decent drive. Roomy, decently equipped and with a good ride, it proved a capable family saloon. The same holds true today and if a Cortina is just a bit too common, then the Avenger is well worth a look. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1970 Hillman Avenger 1250

Engine                                    1248cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  53bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 66lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                81mph

0-60mph                                  16.8sec

Consumption                            28mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

In common with most cars of the period, rust was the Avenger’s main enemy. Sills, rear valances, and front inner wings are all at risk of the dreaded tin-worm, so a car that has already had these areas attended to is well worth seeking out. 
A lack of undersealing also meant that floorpans corroded quickly, and while replacement panels are available cheaply, labour costs can soon mount.  Checking a potential purchase carefully is time well spent. Lift up the carpets in both the front and rear of the cabin, and don’t forget to check the boot floor as well.

 

ENGINE

The four-cylinder OHV units were tried and tested and present no major problems.  Replacement parts, even for early units, are plentiful and relatively cheap and if well looked after, the engines are pretty much bullet-proof. Regular maintenance is the key though and is well within the scope of the DIY-er. Evidence of frequent servicing will provide peace of mind and while niggling oil leaks are not uncommon, these tend to be a result of neglect and are rarely serious. Some oil smoke from the exhaust is perhaps to be expected, though this shouldn’t be excessive and more often than not points to worn valve guides. A top end rebuild is a fairly straightforward task for home mechanics and shouldn’t deter you if the car is otherwise sound. 

 

RUNNING GEAR

Both manual and automatic gearboxes are largely trouble-free and any major problems will be apparent on a test drive. Manual’boxes can suffer from weak synchromesh, but ensuring the correct oil is being used will help minimise the problem – this should be engine oil and not specific gearbox oil as you might expect.  Reconditioned units are available and reasonably priced. The three-speed Borg Warner Type 35 automatic was never really troubled by the Avenger’s modest power and while gearchanges were never the smoothest, excessive thumping or a reluctance to change gear signal more major problems which can prove costly. 

A whining back axle is a common occurrence but doesn’t necessarily mean imminent failure, while half-shaft bearings have a tendency to leak oil. Suspension and brake systems shouldn’t give trouble with regular fettling, only sticking brake calipers proving a minor issue.


INTERIOR

Most interiors will have succumbed to general wear and tear by now. Dashboards can suffer from cracking and warpage, and water leaks from front and rear screens will rot the carpets. Replacement parts can be hard to source, so a really tired interior is best avoided. 

OUR VERDICT

If you’re looking for something a little different to the mass ranks of Ford Cortinas and Morris Marinas, then you’ll certainly appreciate what the Avenger has to offer.  As a comfortable and reliable saloon it is hard to beat, and low running costs are the icing on the classic car cake. Fine ride and handling were lauded by the motoring press at launch and still feel a step above its competitors today.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ G-CLASS

The Mercedes-Benz G-Wagen was rattling the Soviet bear just prior to the end of the Cold War. And perhaps in its own small way it contributed to those astonishing scenes we saw in Germany in 1989 and in the USSR in 1991. Which makes the G a real piece of history, present when monumental events unfolded.
Development of the G occurred throughout the 1970s, in the wake of the German Army’s decision to use the lightweight VW Iltis as a stop-gap 4x4. Daimler-Benz teamed up with Steyr-Daimler-Puch, who made the Haflinger and Pinzgauer off-roaders, to develop the concept. From 1981, Geländewagen- Fahrzeug-Gesellschaft was bought out by Steyr, which built G-Wagens for Mercedes under license. Confused? Steyr was allowed to badge the trucks under its own maker’s name to sell them in Austria, Switzerland and the former Yugoslavia. Then Peugeot motored and badged versions were built for the French army after military trials showed they were the most suitable 4x4 available. But the French government refused to buy foreign vehicles, so the Peugeot hybrid project G was responsible for 12,000 ‘Peugeot P4’ models assembled by Panhard in France. The G-Wagen was a slow seller on the commercial market – too slow, utilitarian and expensive to compete with luxury high-end Range Rovers and trinket-laden Japanese 4x4s such as the Isuzu Trooper and Nissan Patrol. It was perceived to be worthy but lacking in charisma for the private buyer.
You may not think the point of a 'G' is to consider its road-driving habits. But the G-Wagen manages the tricky task of being a genuinely easy road-driving estate car, a formidable off-road go-anywhere 4x4, and often a true military collectors vehicle. So what greets the driver unfamiliar with G-lore? First off, check the polyurethance wheelarches, signifying a post-1985 facelift. Climb up into the seat of a 460 series G and, after sporty classics, it seems high off the deck. Settle into the generic 1980s Mercedes-Benz fabric seat. It’s spartan but comfy. Below the dashboard are two pedals and a footrest, while to the right are three levers handbrake, auto-shifter and behind the transfer box lock-up, this being the G-Wagen’s secret weapon in military use over other homegrown potential army vehicles.
The fuel-injected straight-six fires from a key start, and once you’ve snicked the gear lever back into D, the G heads off with a muted woofle from the tailpipe and a flick of torque from the twin-cam six. The ride is sharper than a monocoque car, damped by the extra weight a military-spec G carries in its sump guards and cupola. With three up – driver, navigator and the officer in the centrally mounted, higher positioned rear seat– all three serving soldiers strap in with multi-point harnesses. Then you can head off-road and the fun begins. With low-range engaged and diffs locked, you can power between trees on steep slopes. With low engaged, capable is an understatement! But it’s when the formidable powers of the G fail, and the 4x4 gets stuck, that the military version shows how adaptable it is. With the winch, you can tether the cable and power away from the steepest and slipperiest conditions, until all four wheels can grab some grip and pull through. It’s not the fastest thing on four wheels, nor does it deploy the sharpest handling or best brakes. But for a point-to-point crossing of any terrain, a G will give you almost as much capacity as a military vehicle fitted with tracks.

MERCEDES-BENZ R107 SL REVIEW

The R107 SL came to symbolise 1980s glamour. We find out if they’ve aged gracefully

The R107-series SL was unveiled in 1971, presenting luxury-hungry buyers with stylish interiors, bigger engines and sharper, more contemporary bodywork. Mercedes-Benz’s renowned build quality quickly becomes apparent from the moment you close the door with a satisfying clunk. The 107 chassis was also an incredibly long-lived member of the Mercedes-Benz family, remaining in production until 1989. After four decades, the R107 SL is still a fashionable and popular vehicle, so prices have remained strong. Find a good example and you should have a surefire investment in the long term. 

VITAL STATISTICS

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300SL

Engine                                    2962cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  178bhp@5700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 184lb ft@4400rpm

Top speed                                124mph

0-60mph                                   9.6sec

Consumption                             23mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Mercedes-Benz built these cars accurately, with very careful attention to how every item fitted in relation to another. Thus all external body sheet metal should fit precisely, with even gaps between any adjacent panels – the same goes for the bonnet and boot lid. Uneven gaps hint at removal, accident damage or worse. 

Check where the wings are bolted to the inner aprons. Mercedes-Benz painted the cars after the front wings and doors were already attached, so all the bolts should be body-coloured and bonded with paint to the panels. If not, then this is a sure sign that repairs have been undertaken.

Post-1986 cars were the best rustproofed SLs, while pre-1976 versions – built before wax injection was introduced – are the most likely to suffer. Check for rust in the sills, box sections, jacking points and floors. Front and rear valances and wheelarches are also problem areas. Be sure to assess the windscreen – it’s bonded in – as well as checking rubber window seals for perishing. All panels apart from the front wings are welded on, and most are available from Mercedes-Benz. You can get pattern equivalents, but they often need extra fettling before they will
fit satisfactorily. Accident damage is also a possibility, so carefully inspect the front chassis legs and inner panels to see if they’re rippled. 

 

ENGINE

Engines should be capable of racking up 300,000 miles, and oil changes every 6000 miles will help prolong an engine’s lifetime. Also check whether regular coolant changes have taken place – it is vital that proper antifreeze with the correct inhibitors has been used, in order to guard against internal corrosion. 

Blue smoke suggests worn valve stems, so changing them every 75,000 miles is recommended, along with the timing chain and tensioner. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge – if the radiator has become clogged up with silt then the V8s will run hot. Camshaft wear is another common issue on cars that haven’t been looked after properly, resulting in a clicking from the engine. If this has happened then the cam followers and possibly even the chain will have been affected, too. 

Automatic gearboxes are the most common choice. Earlier cars have a fluid flywheel that can become temperamental when engaging first gear; from 1975 onwards, a torque converter was used instead. With all ‘boxes, check for excessive noise or difficulties when engaging gears. A vibration from the transmission indicates worn propshaft couplings. Replacement exhausts can be expensive, so look for bodged ‘dual’ systems – if there is no balance pipe between the front downpipes on V8s it will run rougher. Mercedes-Benz used a different firing order to most American cars and the balance pipe helps tuning as well as smooth running. Stainless systems last for much longer, but due to the lighter gauge metal they are usually a bit louder, so consider this before you buy.

RUNNING GEAR

Loose handling is usually down to tired shock absorbers, although bushes also deteriorate noticeably, especially on high-mileage cars. Worn subframe mountings can also seriously affect handling, especially on the more powerful V8 models. Steering dampers also deteriorate, as do power steering boxes, most commonly after 90,000 miles have been racked up. Beware of fitting aftermarket alloy wheels – they may look good, but bigger-than-standard items can really affect the feel of an SL and how it drives.


INTERIOR

Four different trim options were offered over the years: leather, MB-tex, cloth or vinyl. Cloth is the least durable, followed by vinyl, leather and finally the über-resilient MB-tex. Seat covers in the latter are available quite reasonably, and even original pattern ones in leather are not too bad, so any typical tears or split seams in the driver’s seat need not be a
deal-breaker. The hood should be a good quality padded one; while there are cheap vinyl replacements around, they look just that – cheap. 

OUR VERDICT

If you’re after a stylish, sharp-suited roadster to potentially use all year round, then look
no further. The R107 SL was improved continuously throughout its 18-year lifespan, with the result that the later the car, the better it is – run-out models from 1989 are most buyer’s top choices. SLs are rarely cheap to buy and the repair bills can be eye-watering, but they do make up for this by remaining a solid investment. The golden rule is to buy the best car you can afford. Happily though, once you’ve found the right car for you, R107s can be enjoyed in much the same way as a modern Mercedes-Benz, with all the reliability you’d expect in that regard but with infinitely more character and personality.

MERCEDES-BENZ SEC REVIEW

You will feel like the chairman of the board with this Mercedes super coupé

These cars were in production from 1981-91, proving that there is little wrong with the design, luxury or longevity of the model. You’ll appreciate the SEC’s bias toward luxury and refinement and revel in the myriad details designed to make the driver’s life easier. 

And when we say luxury, take note; driving an SEC is about as relaxing as they come. Performance is more than adequate by anyone’s standards, especially given today’s speed-limited road environment. Suspension settings are biased toward comfort, with no real-world limit on handling prowess. 

Comfort and space are both superb, even in the back, and and even if you’re tall. And if you want to drive a car that shows taste, wealth and style, this C126 will fulfill every 1980s fantasy you can imagine. Just don’t buy a bad one and turn what can be among the best dreams imaginable into a nightmare. 

VITAL STATISTICS

MERCEDES 500SEC 1981-85

Engine                                    4973cc/V8/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  245bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 286lb ft@3750rpm

Top speed                                140mph

0-60mph                                  7.9sec

Consumption                            17.5mpg  

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

All panels are C126-specific; no saloon skins here. Wheel trims and alloy wheels are carried over – and the style of the car is similar to the four-door variants. Ribbed rear lights were designed to discourage the accumulation of dirt, and shields ahead of the door handles helped stop them from leaving filthy deposits. The A-pillars were braced to the bulkhead by steel rods which ensured the car was solid enough to forego B-posts, as with every Mercedes coupé since the 1960s. The rear screen seal is a weak spot, causing rotten bulkheads by virtue of leaks – open the boot and look up under the back window. While there, check the condition of the rear screen itself. Replacements are available, but at a price. Rear arches and sills rot, so check for filler and fresh paint. The underseal can come away from corroding floorpans, accelerating corrosion beneath.

The bonnet, boot and rear bulkhead are made from aluminium skins wrapped over steel support frames. It is important to make sure there is no electrolytic corrosion present at the panel edges. 

 

ENGINE

Powered by a 5.0-litre variant of the Mercedes M117 V8, the 500SEC is clearly a potent machine. Fortunately, it’s also the most common. It is easy to maintain, reliable, and diagnosis of any issues is relatively straightforward. Spares are available from Mercedes-Benz, but don’t come cheap. If you’re running a C126 on a budget, we advise you find a Mercedes specialist. If the car has its original plastic radiator, chemicals used in some coolants can damage it – the upper hose neck can fail. Servicing should be done at 12,000‑mile intervals. 

 

ELECTRICS

C126s are packed full of toys – make sure they all work; the more broken gadgets, the costlier the car will be to put back to how it should be.  Dashboards are shared with the W126 saloons, though the rev counter replaced the analogue clock in saloon models (a digital clock should sit in the centre of the speedo). The electric seats are unique too, with the fronts featuring a pneumatic locking system to hold the squab up while the car is in motion. 

 

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes tend to be durable. Most cars are fitted with four-speed automatic transmission. Ensure transmission fluid is the correct red colour, there are no leaks and that there is no transmission slip or strange noises. 

 

BRAKES

Although SECs never got hydro-pneumatic suspension, the swinging-caliper brakes are unique to the car, but most other mechanical parts are shared with the rest of the W126 range. This means they’re both tough and easy to source. While the steering ratio was altered to give a more engaging feel, steering components are interchangeable.


INTERIOR

There’s not much wood inside, but there’s plenty of leather – check for nicks, tears, or other damage. Re-trims are not cheap. Many came with velour, which is less desirable but tougher.

OUR VERDICT

These Mercedes represent astonishing value for the luxury and build quality they offer. They’re still at the bottom of their value curve, with some potential buyers put off by the cost of fuelling these beasts, and others unable to find examples in good enough condition to campaign as classics. 

Customers for new SECs would have included company directors, football managers and millionaires who were after something a little more subtle than the usual Rolls-Royce, but these days they’re seriously cheap. V8 engines have cachet, with the 500 and 560 models only one rung shy of the supercar elite, thanks to its speed and power. Buy one and it feels like you’re treating yourself. Being an old Merc, the sense of solidity is ever-apparent – you feel indestructible in one of these old barges. People say Mercs are competent but bland, but this large, two‑door coupé seems to confound this view. Does it have soul? Your decision. What is for certain, is that it’s one of the bargains of the century.

From the satisfying thunk of the door, to the thoughtful detailing, and quality of the trim and bodywork, you’ll love the SEC. Should you decide to buy one, you’ll probably find it more comfortable, reliable and spacious than your daily driver. Could it be all the car you’ll ever need? The classless lines and the fresh design – conforming to Mercedes ideals of creating shapes that are timeless and stylish while never conforming to the latest fashion – lift the SEC above the humdrum. 

A real plus point for this car is the build-quality. Durability is its middle name, while it delivers great comfort for any long-distance journey planned. The only difficulty it seems you’ll have is finding one of low enough mileage to warrant buying, and then refraining from adding to its total.

MERCEDES-BENZ SL CLASS REVIEW

As Merc’s most highly developed mainstream two-seater roadster, the SL has never been a car for the masses, but some editions are rather more affordable than others.

Ever since the legendary Gullwing of 1954, the Mercedes SL has represented one of the most thoroughly engineered two-seaters on the market. Aside from the Gullwing, all those SLs have been two-seater roadsters and they’ve all offered effortless performance with understated style.

While the 300SL and the Pagoda that succeeded it now fetch big money, the R107 that arrived in 1971 is more affordable – but values for those are rising fast. Which leaves the R107’s successor as the most affordable SL of all. Known as the R129 and launched in 1989, this fourth-generation SL was initially offered in 300SL-24 and 500SL forms. It was an immediate hit and in 1992 Mercedes took the SL even further upmarket with the launch of a 6.0-litre V12 option in the 600SL. In 1993 the 3.0-litre engine was ditched in favour of 2.8 and 3.2-litre straight-six options in the 280SL and 320SL respectively. This was also the year in which the SL switched from being a suffix to a prefix; the 500SL became an SL500.

In 1998, more efficient V6 engines replaced the previous straight-six units, still with 2.8 and 3.2-litre displacements, but there was more power with improved fuel economy. There was also a new engine for the SL500 (the 4966cc M113 replaced the 4973 M119 unit). For those who wanted serious power though, it was in 1995 that the ultimate R129 arrived; the SL73 AMG. Powered by the same 7.3-litre V12 that would later see service in the Pagani Zonda, this 525bhp monster was the most powerful production SL ever – just 85 were built. Within a year there was also an SL60 AMG, with a 376bhp 6.0-litre V8.

So whether you want a tyre-shredding supercar or a more demure relatively frugal cruiser, there’s an R129 for you. Most editions are eminently affordable – although SLs always go up in value eventually. Some R129s are already appreciating, so if you buy well, you could enjoy some seriously cheap open-topped motoring.

VITAL STATISTICS

SL500 M113
 

Engine                                      4966cc/8-cyl/4OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                     306@5600

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    339@2700

Top speed                                155mph (limited)

0-60mph                                   6.2sec

Consumption                            20mpg

Gearbox                                   4/5-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Thanks to excellent rustproofing and high-quality paint, there’s no reason for an R129’s bodywork to look tatty. You can even keep these cars outside in the winter, so the R129 really is a year-round sportscar. However, the bonnet and radiator grille are prone to stone chips so it may be that a respray of the nose is needed every few years.

ENGINE

R129 engines are incredibly durable if maintained, but oil leaks are common. The unstressed M113 and M119 V8s fitted to the SL500 are particularly long-lived. The M103 and M104 straight-sixes (fitted to the 300SL, SL280 and SL320) can suffer head gasket failure at about 100k miles. Early cars are suffering from wiring loom problems leading to misfiring; budget £1000 to fix a head gasket and £1500 to replace the loom. The M120 V12 in the SL600 is a superb engine, but fuel and maintenance costs are steep, while the dynamics are spoiled by the extra weight. It also doesn’t offer any extra usable performance over the SL500.

RUNNING GEAR

Only a few six-cylinder SLs got a manual gearbox; the great majority of SLs are autos. The electronically controlled five-speed transmission fitted from 1996 is much better than the hydraulically actuated four-speeder previously fitted. All transmissons are strong, but hard-driven cars can suffer from a worn back axle, so listen for whining. The steering, suspension and brakes are also tough, but repairs can be costly on SLs fitted with ADS (the adaptive damping system). Optional on all R129s apart from the SL600 (on which it was standard), ADS was rarely specified because of the high cost when new (around £4000). If it plays up, repairs are costly; if fitted the car should have an amazingly smooth ride which is why it’s worth having.

TRIM

The electrically folding soft top can play up, so check that it raises and stows smoothly; jump starting can damage the control module. Look for evidence of hydraulic leaks by the sun visors and around the rams in the boot. Gremlins can be hard to eradicate. The plastic windows in the soft top crack with age –  and check the quality of the roof in general as some replacement hoods are poorly made.

An aluminium hard top was standard, and from 1993 a wind deflector too. Check the hard top for corrosion, especially at the base of each pillar. The best hard top is one of the panoramic items offered from 1995, as these really light up the cabin. With a smoked glass panel that covers the entire roof, it’s superb but much heavier than the standard roof. The seal arrangement was changed in 1995, so hard tops made after this date won’t fit earlier cars, and vice versa.

Be wary of modified cars, as ‘improvements’ are generally undesirable. Watch out for aftermarket wheels, stereos and exhaust systems and make sure the tyres are decent; any owner who fits cheap rubber has probably skimped elsewhere with their maintenance. Wheels increased in diameter from 16 to 17 inches in June 1998, to clear the upgraded brakes fitted from that point. Autocar reckoned these were the best brakes fitted to any production car in the world at that time, so upgrades really are unnecessary.

ELECTRICS

The electrics can be problematic with effective repairs potentially very expensive. A failed xenon light typically costs £500-£1000 to fix while the bill to repair a seized wiper motor might be £700. Also check that the air conditioning works properly; failed condensers aren’t unusual and these can easily cost well over £1000 to put right. Later cars got more standard equipment but Mercedes had reduced the quality of the interior materials by this point, to cut costs.

VERDICT

More of a cruiser than a sportscar, the Mercedes SL is a true performance car bargain as it’s beautifully built and utterly usable. But when an R129 goes wrong it can cost plenty to fix, so while we’d recommend the Merc wholeheartedly, make sure you do your homework before buying.

MERCEDES-BENZ SL R107 REVIEW

The R107-series SL was unveiled in 1971, presenting luxury-hungry buyers with stylish interiors, bigger engines and sharper, more contemporary bodywork. Mercedes-Benz’s renowned build quality quickly becomes apparent from the moment you close the door with a satisfying clunk. The 107 chassis was also an incredibly long-lived member of the Mercedes-Benz family, remaining in production until 1989. After four decades, the R107 SL is still a fashionable and popular vehicle, so prices have remained strong. Find a good example and you should have a surefire investment in the long term.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Mercedes-Benz built these cars accurately, with very careful attention to how every item fitted in relation to another. Thus all external body sheet metal should fit precisely, with even gaps between any adjacent panels – the same goes for the bonnet and boot lid. Uneven gaps hint at removal, accident damage or worse. 
Check where the wings are bolted to the inner aprons. Mercedes-Benz painted the cars after the front wings and doors were already attached, so all the bolts should be body-coloured and bonded with paint to the panels. If not, then this is a sure sign that repairs have been undertaken.
Post-1986 cars were the best rustproofed SLs, while pre-1976 versions – built before wax injection was introduced – are the most likely to suffer. Check for rust in the sills, box sections, jacking points and floors. Front and rear valances and wheelarches are also problem areas. Be sure to assess the windscreen – it’s bonded in – as well as checking rubber window seals for perishing. All panels apart from the front wings are welded on, and most are available from Mercedes-Benz. You can get pattern equivalents, but they often need extra fettling before they will fit satisfactorily. Accident damage is also a possibility, so carefully inspect the front chassis legs and inner panels to see if they’re rippled. 

ENGINE & GEAROX

Engines should be capable of racking up 300,000 miles, and oil changes every 6000 miles will help prolong an engine’s lifetime. Also check whether regular coolant changes have taken place – it is vital that proper antifreeze with the correct inhibitors has been used, in order to guard against internal corrosion. 
Blue smoke suggests worn valve stems, so changing them every 75,000 miles is recommended, along with the timing chain and tensioner. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge – if the radiator has become clogged up with silt then the V8s will run hot. Camshaft wear is another common issue on cars that haven’t been looked after properly, resulting in a clicking from the engine. If this has happened then the cam followers and possibly even the chain will have been affected, too. 
Automatic gearboxes are the most common choice. Earlier cars have a fluid flywheel that can become temperamental when engaging first gear; from 1975 onwards, a torque converter was used instead. With all ‘boxes, check for excessive noise or difficulties when engaging gears. A vibration from the transmission indicates worn propshaft couplings. Replacement exhausts can be expensive, so look for bodged ‘dual’ systems – if there is no balance pipe between the front downpipes on V8s it will run rougher. Mercedes-Benz used a different firing order to most American cars and the balance pipe helps tuning as well as smooth running. Stainless systems last for much longer, but due to the lighter gauge metal they are usually a bit louder, so consider this before you buy.

SUSPENSION

Loose handling is usually down to tired shock absorbers, although bushes also deteriorate noticeably, especially on high-mileage cars. Worn subframe mountings can also seriously affect handling, especially on the more powerful V8 models. Steering dampers also deteriorate, as do power steering boxes, most commonly after 90,000 miles have been racked up. Beware of fitting aftermarket alloy wheels – they may look good, but bigger-than-standard items can really affect the feel of an SL and how it drives.

INTERIOR AND ELECTRICS

Four different trim options were offered over the years: leather, MB-tex, cloth or vinyl. Cloth is the least durable, followed by vinyl, leather and finally the über-resilient MB-tex. Seat covers in the latter are available quite reasonably, and even original pattern ones in leather are not too bad, so any typical tears or split seams in the driver’s seat need not be a deal-breaker. The hood should be a good quality padded one; while there are cheap vinyl replacements around, they look just that – cheap.

 

OUR VERDICT
If you’re after a stylish, sharp-suited roadster to potentially use all year round, then look no further. The R107 SL was improved continuously throughout its 18-year lifespan, with the result that the later the car, the better it is – run-out models from 1989 are most buyer’s top choices. SLs are rarely cheap to buy and the repair bills can be eye-watering, but they do make up for this by remaining a solid investment. The golden rule is to buy the best car you can afford. Happily though, once you’ve found the right car for you, R107s can be enjoyed in much the same way as a modern Mercedes-Benz, with all the reliability you’d expect in that regard but with infinitely more character and personality.

MERCEDES-BENZ W108 AND W109 REVIEW

If you’re looking for a luxury saloon that packs a serious punch, then the Mercedes-Benz S-class should be top of your list

The first of the W108 line was the 250S saloon of 1965, offering crisp, modern styling and a 2.5-litre six-cylinder engine. This was joined by the fuel-injected 250SE, the 3-litre 300SE and the long-wheelbase W109 300SEL. After 1968, the range mushroomed to include the 140bhp twin-carb 280S, as well as

2.5-litre straight-six and 3.5-litre V8 versions of the 280SE and 300SEL. Also available – but not to be confused with the S-class – were the similar-looking (but less impressive) W114 saloons. Rising above this confusing range was truly the daddy of them all: the 6.3-litre V8 300SEL, pumping out a staggering 200bhp and capable of 135mph

VITAL STATISTICS

280SE 2.8-litre

Engine                                    2778cc/6-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  145bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 166lb ft@3600rpm

Top speed                                116mph

0-60mph                                  11.2sec

Consumption                            18mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd man/3-spd auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Think long and hard about taking on a rotten W108 or W109, as rust repairs are neither simple nor cheap. New panels will cost you too, so look out for bodged work. Lift the carpets and inspect the floors and inner sills, looking for sub-standard repairs. If the jacking points in the outer sills have been welded over, then beware.

Rear wheelarches are vulnerable to corrosion, so inspect both inner and outer sections. Chrome trim on the wheelarch lip wasn’t standard but, if fitted, could hide nasty surprises. Boot seals fail, rotting out the spare wheel well, so look for water ingress. Also check the suspension mounts for rot, or evidence that it has been hastily disguised.

Inspect the front wings closely: they corrode at the lower edges, and around the headlamps. The lamp units should be an excellent fit, while panel gaps should be true and even. If this isn’t the case, or if the doors don’t shut perfectly, walk away.

 

ENGINE

Although the toughness of the W108 and W109 is legendary, lack of care can take its toll. Documented service history is highly desirable – if it’s missing, ask why. Both six-cylinder and V8 engines are hardy, but can suffer if oil changes are neglected, leading to premature valve gear wear.

Noisy timing chains aren’t a cause for concern, although 3.5-litre V8s have a tendency to crack their exhaust manifolds. The 6.3-litre V8 can suffer if only run for short periods, as over-rich fuelling washes away the oil in the bores.

Beware of poor running on cars with Bosch fuel injection; rectifying faults is expensive. The twin Zeniths fitted to some models are more DIY-friendly.

RUNNING GEAR

Both the manual and auto ’boxes are tough. Automatics were a popular choice among S-class buyers, so ensure that these swap ratios without complaint and kick down easily. Manuals should change without crunching, while worn driveshaft universal joints will clunk on the move. Also ensure the power steering is up to snuff at low speeds. Air suspension was fitted to the V8 models, as well as a few six-cylinders, and runs from a small compressor in the engine bay, so make sure this system works. Lesser models had conventional springs and dampers, although a sagging rear could be due to a failing self-levelling compensator.


INTERIOR

The interiors were typically finished in vinyl or leather. Splits and tears can be repaired, but a full re-trim will cost a fortune. If fitted, test that the electric windows work.

OUR VERDICT

Appealing to ambassadors and gangsters alike, these capable Mercs have always managed to toe the line between social respectability and hardened street cred. As you’d expect, the
6.3-litre 300SEL is worth the most; the best can easily top £20,000. However, the 3.5-litre V8 models will cost less than half of that, while you can be behind the wheel of a top straight-six S-class for as little as £6000. But only the very brave or very foolish would even consider trying to restore a basket-case.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - MERCEDES-BENZ W114

Launched in 1968, the 6 cylindered Mercedes Benz W114 and its W115 four cylinder sister are possibly the archetypal classic Benz. Staid, solid, and supremely sensible, there’s no reason why a good one couldn’t serve as either a show car or a classic daily driver.

 

Bodywork

Check the wings, sills, and boot area for signs of rust – most W114s will have started to go at some point, but many will have been sorted. These cars were spot welded – and whilst they were well undersealed, in practice this served equally well at keeping the water in as keeping it out! Check also the front bulkhead, upon which the sound deadening acts as a water trap – when these rot, it’s serious, so make sure it’s good. Trim can be hard to source, so it may be worth stockpiling if you can. European and UK spec cars had the stacked headlamps seen on all Mercs of this period – if you view a car with round headlamps it’s to US specification and will be less powerful to boot.

 

Engines

A series of Mercedes in-line sixes provided power for the W114 range – the M180, M110, and M114 series engines ranging from 2.3 to 2.8 litres, with the option of fuel injection on the 2.8 litre iants. These are generally bulletproof, and have been known to cover mileages in excess of a million. They’re shared with other models in the Mercedes range too, so parts are easy to source. Potentially costly, mind – Merc specialists know how to charge! Twin carbs can prove tricky to set up – we recommend an injected car for ease of maintenance.

 

Running Gear

Four speed manual; either column or floor change, or four speed auto gearboxes are the order of the day. Autos will be easier to sell on and neither is known for unreliability. Trailing arms and coil springs replaced the swing axle of the old Fintail, the service interval was increased to 5000 miles, and grease nipples were eliminated from the design. Most of the running gear was also used in the 1970s and 1980s Mercedes SL, so should be fairly easy to source if anything is needed from SL specialists such as the SL Shop. 

 

Interior

Safety and solidity are what make a W114 interior so special – and whilst viewed with derision by styling experts at the time, it has a Bauhaus simplicity which appeals today. Electric windows, a heated rear window, a sunroof and seat belts were available – but all were cost options. Don’t be surprised it any W114 on the market today is lacking any of these features. W114s could be specified with leather or the standard MB-Tex – a superior grade vinyl which has fooled many.

 

Why Should I Buy One?

Not because you want something cheap to own, nor because you want something with all the toys. If you want a Mercedes W114, what you are buying is quality strength, solidity and dependability first and foremost. A W114, properly maintained, should last forever – and if you get the pretty Coupe it should serve as a most stylish form of transport too. Both saloon and Coupe are ideal family classics, with space for all plus their luggage – and with so few sold in the UK they’re pleasingly different.

 

What Should I Pay

Project - £1200

Usable - £3200

Nice - £6000

Concours - £7000

 

Vital Statistics

Engine – 2746cc, 6-cyl, SOHC

Power - 185bhp@6000rpm

Torque - 176lb/ft@4500rpm

Top Speed – 126mph

0-60mph – 10.1seconds

Economy - 22mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual, optional 4 speed auto

MERCEDES-BENZ 190 REVIEW

The 190 was admired for its durability but should you invest in this compact exec today?

It’s over thirty years since Mercedes-Benz launched its compact saloon, the 190 (or W201 in Mercedes speak), a car that was designed to go into battle against the hugely popular BMW 3-Series.  In E30 form, the Beemer was the small saloon to have if you wanted to flaunt a premium badge, and Mercedes wanted a slice of the action.  Made at a time when the Stuttgart manufacturers build quality made a nuclear shelter appear flimsy, the 190 took a much more staid approach to the business of transporting mid-ranking executives and while the 3-Series was considered a sporting option, the Benz set out to impress buyers with a blend of comfort and solidity.  And the more conservative approach was to pay dividends with almost two million shifted before it bowed out in the early 1990s, and it still makes a strong impression today.  Inside, things can certainly appear on the austere side with sombre colours and a thoroughly sensible dashboard and control layout that lacks much in the way of design flair.  But what it does do though is work impeccably well, imparting a feeling of longevity that you simply don’t find in other cars of the era and while not a cabin to get the pulse racing there’s pleasure to be had from enjoying such well-executed engineering.  Indeed, much the same can be said for the driving experience although if you’re looking lower down the range performance is best considered as modest.  Still, the fuel-injected 2.0-litre model made reasonable use of its 122bhp with a 0-60mph time of 10.5 seconds, and if you wanted real pace there was always the racy Cosworth variants that boasted upwards of 185bhp.  Either way, many buyers opted to equip their 190 with an automatic transmission and it remains the better choice today, the manual not being blessed with the quickest of shifts.  At least there was no foot-operated parking brake to wrestle with but the rest of the controls work with the well-oiled precision you’d expect, and there’s the usual huge steering wheel to make classic Benz owners feel at home.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Mercedes-Benz 190E

Engine           1997cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power            122bhp@5100rpm

Torque          131lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed     121mph

0-60mph       10.5secs

Economy      28mpg

Gearbox       4-speed manual/4-speed automatic

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

The bodywork is very good at resisting the ravages of time and it’s usually damage or poor accident repairs that allow rot to set in.  That said it’s worth checking the extremities of the front wings and the rear wheel arches for any signs of bubbling while surface corrosion can sometimes spring up around the screens, sunroof opening, and battery tray.  The floor pan, jacking points, and sills should also be given the once-over.  Later models featured plastic cladding on the lower half of the doors so check for rust around the edges that could signify worse problems beneath. 

The body kit on Cosworth models can hide rot or damage, so check as thoroughly as you can and ensure the spoilers and side-skirts themselves are undamaged.  Replacement panels are available for the 190 – though some are pricey - and while some new exterior trim parts are scarce there’s a thriving secondhand parts supply.  Lastly, it’s worth checking the quality of the paintwork as fading is common on some colours – reds especially – although the depth and quality of the original paint means it usually responds well to cutting back and polishing.

Regular maintenance should see engines cover galactic mileages without too much trouble.  Timing chain renewal is one of the main jobs that’ll need doing at around 70,000 miles – listen out for the tell-tale rattle – but it’s not too involved and the single-row, simplex chain was swapped for a stronger duplex item at the 1989 facelift.  Otherwise, make sure you check for any signs of a failing head gasket, oil leaks from the cam cover gaskets on 2.6-litre six-cylinder units, and smoky diesels in need of a re-build.  The Bosch K-Jetronic injection system – denoted by ‘E’ for Einspritzung, or injection, hence 190E – rarely gives trouble.  Cosworth models on the other hand may have seen hard use, so a specialist inspection is worthwhile.  Overhaul costs can be huge with some parts boasting four-figure price tags (or worse) so be very wary of tired examples.

Manual gearboxes – including the Cosworth’s dog-leg Getrag unit - are very robust so you just need to check for excessive noise or an obstructive shift.  Automatics last well too although a rebuild could be on the cards by 120,000 miles or so, so check that gears engage quickly and smoothly.  Clutches last very well on all models but make sure the limited-slip differential on the Cosworth is quiet in operation as a reconditioned replacement costs in excess of £1000.

Suspension-wise, front ball joints and rear suspension link arm bushes are common wear points, and you’ll need to check for broken coil springs.  But more important is checking the hydraulic self-levelling system that was standard on the Cosworth and optional on some other variants.  It can leak and replacing rotten pipework is very labour-intensive as the pipes will need to be made and the rear axle needs to be dropped to fit them.  Replacing the levelling struts or pump will be costly too.  It’s also worth checking for leaks from the power steering system but the good news is that brake issues are rare if they’ve been maintained properly.  Just ensure that models with ABS aren’t displaying any warning lights.

Overall cabin quality is hugely impressive, but there are a few issues to watch for including failed instruments and cracks in the dashboard’s surface.  Door cards can warp too, and make sure you try all the electrics as problems can occur with the electric windows, sunroof, and blower and wiper motors.  And you also need to ensure that the ‘jumping’ single wiper is working okay as repairs can get pricey.  Cosworth models were fitted with an LCD stopwatch, the display of which ‘bleeds’ and new ones aren’t available.  Otherwise, there’s a good supply of second-hand trim parts and although most items are still available from Mercedes-Benz - at a cost - it’s obviously worth avoiding anything too shabby. 

 

OUR VERDICT

Durable and reliable, the baby Benz is almost criminally undervalued and that makes it nothing short of a bargain.  A cared for example will outlast its owner, and if you want the perfect example of over-engineering then look no further.  The sporty BMW 3-Series may get all the plaudits but for long-lasting, everyday usability the 190 is nigh-on unbeatable.

It’s staggering to think that such a terrific car is available so cheaply, and while prices might be creeping upwards they are likely to remain affordable for some time yet.  More highly valued Cosworth models aside, it tends to be the diesel, 2.6-litre 6-cylinder, and last-of-the-line LE models that command the highest prices.  But any model should be bought on condition not mileage as they’ll last forever with proper care.

MERCEDES-BENZ SLK REVIEW

Can’t decide whether you want a coupé or a cabriolet? With a Mercedes SLK you can have the best of both worlds.

Way back in 1934, Peugeot introduced the world’s first coupé-cabriolet, the 401 Eclipse. But it would be another 60 years before the configuration would be made popular, by Mercedes with its SLK. Unveiled as a concept at the 1994 Turin salon, it wouldn’t be until November 1996 that the production car would arrive in the UK.

At first there was only a 193bhp SLK 230K, and things would stay that way until February 2000 when the SLK 200Kand SLK 320 joined the range, offering 163bhp and 218bhp respectively. It was the SLK 32 AMG of August 2001 that really put some zest into the range though, with its 354bhp supercharged V6.

In July 2004 the second-generation SLK reached showrooms, but not before Mercedes had unleashed a couple of limited-run models with some of the least imaginative names ever. In June 2002 we got the Limited Edition, with 7.5x17 alloys, black nappa leather and brushed aluminium interior trim. This was followed up by the Special Edition in January 2004, with 16" alloys, grey or red nappa leather and brushed alloy interior detailing.

By far the majority of SLKs have just four (supercharged) cylinders, and as a result there’s a decent balance of fuel economy and performance. But the SLK320, with its 3.2-litre V6, is worth seeking out as it sounds so much more muscular and offers significantly more low-down torque without too much of a fuel consumption penalty.

Whichever variation on the theme you go for you get anti-lock brakes with discs all round for ample stopping power, and a surprisingly comfortable ride considering the SLK’s relatively small proportions. Combine tin-top security and refinement when the roof is up, with the fun driving experience you get only with a proper convertible, and the SLK offers the best of all worlds for MG Midget money.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

SLK230K auto

Engine                                      2295cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                     193@5300

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    206@2500

Top speed                                142mph

0-60mph                                   7.3sec

Consumption                            32mpg

Gearbox                                   6-sp man/5-sp auto

 

Weights and measures

Height                                       157.5in (4.00m)

Width                                        68in (1.72m)

Length                                      51in (1.29m)

Wheelbase                                94.5in (2.40m)

Kerbweight                                2750lb (1250kg)

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Corrosion can be a real issue, so check the suspension arms and brake pipes for rust. If these have corroded there will be much worse hidden away. Check the wheelarches, sills, boot lid and number plate surrounds, the area around the rear number plate light, as well as the fuel filler flap. Also inspect the leading edge of the bonnet; the paint chips and corrosion then sets in. Analyse the whole front end for poorly touched in stone chips; you might have to budget for a front-end respray. The front wings can also rust; it’s most likely around the wheelarch lips as well as along the lower edge, where it butts up to the wraparound bumper. Finish by looking where the two halves of the roof meet; corrosion can set in on both parts.

Four-cylinder engines are robust but supercharger bearings can fail, leading to rattling on tickover. The blower will continue to work but it’ll get noisy; reconditioned superchargers cost around £500. The V6 is also tough but air mass sensors fail; new ones cost £85.

Some cars have a manual gearbox, but most UK SLKs got a five-speed auto that’s lively and shifts ratios smoothly. If the car has a six-speed manual gearbox, make sure the changes are slick; this transmission can fail, although occurrences are rare. Manual gearboxes have a following but buyers tend to prefer autos; the SLK32 AMG came in auto form only.

The charging system can fail when the voltage regulator on the alternator packs up. Also take a look at the front fog lights; these can mist up then corrode internally, so make sure there’s no rust evident. The headlights are incredibly poor on dipped beam, although they’re fine on main beam. The solution is to fit stronger, aftermarket bulbs. Other likely electrical glitches include the heater resistor (easily and cheaply replaced), the air conditioning condensor and compressor (it can cost over £1000 to replace both), the boot lights and the brake light switches. The rear light circuit boards can melt (they’re repairable though)  and the alarm horn can sound continuously once water has got into it – many owners just disconnect it.

Catalytic converters can pack in, which is why you should have an emissions check performed before buying, because replacement converters are very costly. There are three of them and if they all need to be replaced, which is unlikely, the bill will easily come to over £1000.

The roof mechanism is complicated but it should also prove reliable. However, there are various sensors which can play up if the car isn’t used regularly, so put the roof up and down a few times to make sure all is well. The hydraulic oil should also be replaced every 10 years or so, and it’s worth swapping the pump relay (under a cover on the right-hand side of the boot) as a matter of course periodically, as they fail. They’re £12 apiece and take a couple of minutes to swap over.

Check the seats for signs of wear, especially the driver’s seat bolsters. Check behind the seats for evidence of water getting in; the seals for the rear quarterlights can fail, and because they’re very costly they’re sometimes just left to leak – which only increases the bill, ultimately. The door check strap can also fail; new ones aren’t expensive.

The factory-supplied wheels will probably be looking tatty by now, unless they’ve already been refurbished or the car has been really cherished. Corrosion and peeling lacquer is par for the course, but getting them revived is easy enough. Expect to pay anywhere between £50 and £100 per wheel, depending on who does the work and what finish you want. Be wary of aftermarket wheels as some are poorly made and many don’t suit the car’s understated looks.

 

OUR VERDICT

Mercedes ramped up production of its cars in the 1990s, so there are plenty of SLKs to go round. You won’t have to dig deep to buy one either, but you will have to check carefully before buying. While the SLK is superbly engineered, build quality isn’t always what you might expect of the three-pointed star.

MERCEDES-BENZ W123 REVIEW

Changes in parts supply mean the evergreen W123 is now getting costly to revive. We highlight the pros and cons of this cruiser, known for its intergalactic mileage potential...

Few cars are more relaxing to drive than a well-maintained W123. You won’t get anywhere quickly, unless you opt for a 280, but you won’t care either. Life exists at another pace. They roll a bit in the bends, but should cope with brisk driving, not that you’ll want to. It’s all about getting from A to B in as unstressed a state as possible. Manuals are OK, but M-B’s own four-speed automatic is a delight with smooth changes and a marked reluctance to kick-down unless you really want it to. The diesels are all rather sluggish if stupendously tough, so you’ll really want a petrol. The 200 isn’t exactly sprightly so the 230 is the one to have. The 280 is perhaps not really worth the greater thirst unless you really must have six cylinders. Brakes are good with plenty of power and ABS was optional. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Mercedes-Benz 280ce

Engine                                    2746cc/6-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  182bhp@6000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 176lb ft@4500rpm

Top speed                                124mph

0-60mph                                  9.9sec

Consumption                           25mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Corrosion and exports are the reasons for the disappearance of the W123. They’re still very popular as taxis in far flung parts of the world. The survival rate here is low, so finding one is the challenge. Keeping it going not helped by Mercedes-Benz recently deleting some parts lines and increasing the price on others. These are now very costly cars to restore. Saloons are most common, estates and coupes are both rare and desirable.

Rot in the sills is very common and can spread into the inner rear wheel arches and around the jacking points, which is a tricky area to repair correctly. Check carefully around the subframe, anti-roll bar and mountings too. Mercedes-Benz used a thick, rubbery protection for much of the underside, but rot can merrily munch the metal unseen behind it. You’ll need to prod these areas with your hand to see if they crunch. Open the bootlid to inspect the inner rear wings and run your hand beneath the rear screen on the inside of the bootlid. The rear screen seal can leak and allow this area to rot out. Not a problem on estates, so just check the outer rear wings and boot floor and that the back end isn’t sagging –it should self-level. Fuel tanks can also be prone to rust and can be expensive to replace.

ENGINE

There is a vast range of tough, overhead cam engines from 2-litre petrol/diesel to 2.8-litre, six-cylinder petrol. Diesels are slow – none are turbocharged in UK form and the 3-litre, five-cylinder still has only 88bhp. 2.3-litre, four-cylinder petrol is most numerous and a good compromise. Watch for noisy timing chains, service history is always good to have.

ELECTRICS

Watch for the headlamps losing the silver backing. The glass lens is held in places with clips, so restoration is possible. Poor silvering lowers light output and can be an MoT failure. A headlamp can be removed in seconds. The bonnet lifts in two stages – flick the clips on the hinges to open the bonnet to a full 90 degrees so you don’t clout your head on the grille. Watch for rot on the leading edge of the bonnet, front valance and front inner and outer wings.

RUNNING GEAR

Steering is by box but any play can be exaggerated by the large steering wheel. Some can be adjusted out, but if that creates tight spots, a new steering box will be needed – £1800 for a genuine one. Front end clonks will usually be balljoint or bush related. The ride should be superb.

Exhausts are now hard to find and you should bet on paying around £600 for a genuine full system – more for a 280. Some don’t like aftermarket stainless systems as the back pressure can differ and they can sound a bit tinny. Continuing on the cost theme, genuine wings are £250 or more, but pattern parts can be had for significantly less.

OUR VERDICT

People are drawn to the sleek looks of the coupé, but the saloon and estate have plenty of classic appeal of their own, especially as rarity is now very much a factor. You need to buy with care though as restoration costs can be eye-watering, far out-stripping any likely sale value. Avoid rust and you’ll own a robust classic that’ll only rise in value.

MERCEDES S-CLASS (W126) REVIEW

This year marks half a century since the original Mercedes S-Class was launched. The third-generation car is now a bona fide classic – and it’s still impressive enough to trounce many moderns.

For most of the time since it was introduced in 1965, the Mercedes S-Class has represented the pinnacle of automotive prowess. This flagship of the Mercedes range has usually been the model that gets the cutting-edge tech first, offers the greatest refinement and always features ample performance. The S-Class often features technology that won’t feature in mainstream cars for years or even decades.

When the W126 S-Class made its debut in 1979 (1980 in the UK), buyers could choose from a 280SE, 380SE/SEL (the latter getting a 4.5-inch longer wheelbase) or a 500SE/SEL. A facelift in autumn 1985 brought fresh bumpers and valances along with 15-inch wheels in place of the previous 14-inch items. More significant was the new 3.0-litre 300SE in place of the previous 280SE, while a 4.2-litre V8 superseded the 3.8 unit. The 500SE and SEL remained as before, but from autumn 1986 came a new flagship – the 560SEL with a 295bhp 5.6-litre V8. A year later the 5.0-litre engine was tweaked to give 262bhp instead of the previous 240bhp. By this point anti-lock brakes were standard range-wide; they’d previously been optional on the cheaper models.

Unsurprisingly, most of the really good S-Classes that remain have one of the bigger V8s and are loaded with equipment from anti-lock brakes to airbags, which makes the S-Class one of the strongest and safest classics around, despite its advancing years. As result it’s amazingly luxurious and comfortable, so it’s perfectly suited to long-distance cruising; any S-Class – including the six-cylinder editions –  easily capable of swallowing four people and their luggage for even the most demanding of journeys.

However, despite its size and complexity, an S-Class needn’t cost a fortune to run, thanks to fuel-efficient engines and a lot of maintenance can be done on a DIY basis. Some parts prices are steep though, with no cheaper alternatives available. As a result, if you buy a good one and look after it you can spend surprisingly little cash on keeping an S-Class in rude health, but buy badly and you’ll need very deep pockets indeed to keep the thing going.

VITAL STATISTICS

1985 500 SEL

Engine                                      4973cc/8-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                     231@4750

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                    298@3200

Top speed                                131mph

0-60mph                                   8.0sec

Consumption                            17mpg

Gearbox                                   4-speed auto

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

 

  • The S-Class can rot badly, although only neglected cars should be showing significant corrosion. The wheelarches, sills and valances need close inspection, as do the lower portions of the leading edge of the front wings, just above the bumper. If the rear parcel shelf has rotted, the car’s structure has been compromised; repairs could easily run to £3000, especially if the rear wings have rusted too.

 

  • All these S-Classes have a straight-six or V8, from 2746cc in the 280 to 5547cc in the 560. As long as the oil and filter have been changed every 6000 miles, the engines will notch up 150,000 miles between top-end overhauls – the bottom end lasts forever if maintained. The M116/117 all-alloy V8 is light and strong, but anti-freeze levels must be maintained to avoid internal corrosion. On the V8, rattling or clattering on start up, which dies as the engine warms, points to worn duplex timing chains and tensioners; a specialist charges around £750 to fix it. A constant clattering – or ticking – suggests a worn camshaft or cam follower. Especially likely on the bigger engines, DIY repairs are feasible. The parts cost around £2000; a specialist will take 8-9 hours to fit them. The oil pressure needle should be at the top of the dial (3) when cold, dropping to 1 or 2 when warm and idling. Much lower and a bottom-end rebuild is due.

 

  • Six-pot cars got a manual gearbox or optional auto; the former are rare. All V8s have a four-speed automatic gearbox, which lasts forever if the transmission fluid and filter are renewed every 36,000 miles or three years. The fluid should be red as only Dexron can be used – the dipstick is on the offside rear of the engine bay. Make sure the ratios are selected cleanly and that there’s no slipping under load; if there is, the box will need to be rebuilt at £800-1200. Decent used gearboxes are around £400.

 

  • The solid rubber coupling on each end of the propshaft perishes, leading to clonks (and maybe vibrations) as the drive is taken up. Replacement couplings are £120 apiece. The same symptoms can come from worn universal joints on the propshaft or driveshafts. You can’t replace just the U/J on the driveshafts – you have to replace the whole thing at £300+ for the parts or £500 if a specialist does it for you.

 

  • Power steering was standard, with leaks common, so look for signs of fluid escaping. Track rod ends wear and you should renew the whole track rod (at £55 each); you’ll need a four-wheel alignment check afterwards. Where fitted, the self-levelling rear suspension pipes can corrode and leak; a specialist will charge around £500 to make a new set from copper, and fit them. Put some weight in the boot and see if the ride height remains static; also try the car on bumpy roads and see if the ride is hard. If it is, the hydraulic spheres need replacing at £120 each – there’s one for each rear wheel.

 

  • Most S-Classes came packed with equipment, so check everything. Focus on the fuseboxes on the offside bulkhead – check for dodgy contacts because of corroded terminals. While the switchgear is generally long-lived, the electric window switches, motors and regulators can fail. Also make sure the central locking works, as the system uses vacuum pipes, which leak – there are also valves which can stick. You’ll need pressure testing equipment to effect repairs. The vacuum pump itself could be damaged, with new ones £195.

 

  • Many S-Classes feature leather trim, but others got cloth. While the latter is durable and comfortable, the car needs to be priced to sell; there are plenty of hide-trimmed S-Classes out there. If the interior has been allowed to get damp, the cost to fix everything won’t add up. There isn’t much exterior trim, but what’s there is costly to replace. Most of it is durable, but the chromed bumper inserts can rust through; new sets are £1000 apiece, although specialists and eBay can undercut this.

OUR VERDICT

It was the best car in the world when it was new, and the S-Class is still impressive. But neglected cars can be hugely costly to fix, and those used sparingly are often unreliable, so buy carefully. You’ll also need a big garage to house an S-Class, especially in SEL form.