LOTUS ELAN M100 REVIEW

Lotus

Has the opinion-dividing Lotus Elan M100 finally come of age?

Not only does the Elan M100 use an Isuzu-sourced engine, it is – whisper it – front-wheel drive. After decades of rear-driven Elans, this smacked of heresy at the car’s 1989 launch, and although Lotus stood stubbornly by its decision throughout the M100’s life, it can surely be no coincidence that every other Lotus since then has been rear-driven.

The Elan’s perceived dynamic shortcomings are two-fold – the driving position is set well back, with the driver seemingly far away from the curved windscreen. Factor in handling that, to quote period press reports, was too flat, grippy and predictable to be any fun – especially compared to the rear-wheel drive Mazda MX-5 launched around the same time
– and the case for the M100 looks shaky.

Poppycock. The Turbo, in particular, is sensational, and if flat, grippy and predictable handling is a fault, then would that more cars were similarly ‘faulty’.

In truth, the Elan M100 is an absolute blast to drive. It might not make a particularly fruity sound, but as a talented and unusual alternative to the increasingly ubiquitous MX-5, it has few peers.

VITAL STATISTICS

LOTUS ELAN M100 TURBO

Engine 1588cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 165bhp@6600rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 148lb ft@4200rpm

Top speed 137mph

0-60mph 6.5sec

Consumption 42.2mpg

Gearbox 5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It’s advisable to have something to lie on when assessing any M100, as there’s plenty to check underneath the car. Being so low slung, the potential for impact damage is pretty high, especially on the front bumper and the rubber lip that lines its lower edge. Check also that the skid guard beneath the radiator is present and correct – heavy damage here should set alarm bells ringing. A guard that’s missing altogether leaves the radiator vulnerable to stone and salt water damage, and also suggests indifferent maintenance.

While you’re supine beneath the front of a prospective purchase, examine the longitudinal metal structure that forms the engine bay’s underframe. This is called a ‘prongeron’ and cars left the factory with a sticker affixed to it declaring ‘Do Not Jack’ for a reason: jacking damage here is a clear indication that a car has either been maltreated or maintained by a garage that isn’t a Lotus specialist. The prongeron needs to be removed in order to access the oil pick-up, too – if yours shows evidence of recent removal, ask the vendor why it was done.

ENGINE

The engine should be relatively clean and completely free from oil leaks. Failure of the cam angle sensor oil seal can leak oil onto the right-hand side of the engine (although it’s an easy enough repair), but evidence of oil leaks anywhere else is bad news. Turbocharged cars require an oil change every six months – if you check the dipstick and find dirty oil, then this rule clearly hasn’t been adhered to. Evidence of moisture on the dipstick and/or the presence of a mayonnaise-like substance on the underside of the oil filler cap often mean that the cylinderhead gasket is on its way out.

ELECTRICS

The quad pop-up headlights are very cool, but if they fail to rise smoothly together (or, indeed, rise at all) chances are the bulkhead-mounted control box is on the blink. That, or the bushes/gear teeth are worn. More commonly, the fault can sometimes be traced to a simple broken wire leading to the headlight pods themselves.

RUNNING GEAR

Persistent stalling and poor starting, especially on non-turbo cars, can often be traced to the rotor arm inside the distributor, which can work loose. Failing that, check the fuel pump – these can sound healthy enough even when they’re generating next to no pressure. It’s worth checking the fuel filter (for blockages) and ignition coil (for poor connections), too. As a matter of course, it’s always advisable to allow an M100’s fuel pump to prime fully before starting, especially when the engine is hot. And make sure the pump’s inertia switch has not been inadvertently tripped.

BRAKES

A known M100 weakness concerns the rear suspension, specifically the lower wishbones. Series 2 cars were fitted with properly galvanised lower wishbones but, for some reason, earlier models didn’t receive this protection, so over time they inevitably start to corrode and subsequently fail. Check that yours have either been replaced or that the originals have been suitably rust-proofed.

OUR VERDICT

It’s taken a while for the Elan’s Peter Stevens-penned lines to mature into mainstream popularity, but where the MX-5 looks delicate and non-intimidating, the Elan looks squat, pugnacious and ready for a fight. Not for nothing has the M100 often been likened to a British bulldog.

Being so wide (more than six feet), the cabin is surprisingly accommodating – the deep dashboard may appear to distance the driver from all the action at the front, but it certainly makes the car feel much less claustrophobic than many of its rivals.

Buyers on a budget can opt for the standard (and considerably cheaper to insure) 130bhp naturally aspirated model, but they’re becoming increasingly rare in the face of the much more popular turbo cars. To be honest, the blown cars are much more fun to drive, sporting as they do 165bhp (160bhp on later catalyst-equipped models) and maximum torque delivered surprisingly low down in the rev range. And since you can pick up a low-mileage minter for less than £6000, they represent spectacular value for money, too.

In many ways, the M100 Elan is the roadster that time seems to have completely forgotten about. Its opinion-polarising styling and perceived dynamic weaknesses have further conspired against it over the years.

But to dismiss it as a niche bagatelle – something to choose only if you absolutely, positively MUST be seen as slightly left field at all times – is to sell it woefully short.

There are loads of them for sale at any one time, and very few are neglected basket-cases. Indeed, time, tide and inexperienced inability to control full boost on a wet roundabout seems to have weeded out the undesirable element almost completely.

The many surviving examples appear to be almost exclusively lovingly cared-for minters with an ownership network that is as knowledgeable and enthusiastic as they come. Small wonder values remain high.

  Lotus

  Elan

LOTUS ELAN REVIEW

Lotus

The original ’60s Elan still has the power to thrill

There really isn’t very much room in an Elan, as designer Colin Chapman took something of a minimalist approach. Squeeze yourself behind the wheel, and you might find that you’re not very comfortable – especially if you’re tall. Be honest about how important comfort is to you: if the discomfort is enough to hinder your ability to drive, think again about the car you’re buying!

Once under way, though, you’ll enjoy the sheer poke of that twin-cam engine in such a light structure. The exhaust seems to make all the right noises, too, and the car seems to come alive as you build up speed. The ride is surprisingly comfortable, though definitely sporting. What you’ll enjoy most is the car’s ability to go round corners at speeds you would not have thought possible.

VITAL STATISTICS

Series 3 SE models

Engine 1558cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 115bhp@6250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 112lb ft@4600rpm

Top speed 120mph

0-60mph 6.8sec

Consumption 28mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The one really critical element of an Elan is its backbone chassis. You really need to get right underneath the car to take a proper look; put it on a hoist, as it’s too low to crawl under. Check for any sign of twisting, and avoid any chassis which has been plated or welded. Look for rot in the turret-like extensions at each corner of the Y-shaped front and rear sections which carry the suspension. Many cars have been rebuilt on a new galvanised chassis, and some on the specially-developed Spyder upgraded chassis.

The body is GRP, so you needn’t look for rust. Look instead for evidence of bodged accident repairs. Repair sections can be grafted in seamlessly by an expert, but many DIY repairs have been less than expert. A little cracking of the gel coat is only to be expected, although major stress cracks suggest trouble of one sort or another. Check that the headlamps pop up as they should; early cars used a vacuum system to lift them, while later cars had a ‘fail-safe’ arrangement where the vacuum system kept them closed.

ENGINE

Engines are notorious for oil leaks, so don’t be dismayed to spot some seeping from the cam cover. Generally, though, the engine’s reputation for being temperamental is unjustified: most problems are the result of inexpert maintenance, and we can’t stress enough how important it is to let an expert set the Lotus engine up. The twin carburettors (Strombergs, Webers or Dellortos) need careful balancing. It’s worth noting is that they are rubber-mounted and are intended to move a little. If they don’t move, somebody has tightened the mountings too much – so what else has that somebody messed up?

The twin overhead camshafts are driven by a single timing chain, and this is often maladjusted. A clatter from the front of the engine spells chain trouble. Check the screw adjuster on the left-hand side of the timing case (as you look from the front). If it is already screwed in as far as it will go, the engine needs a new chain. As for oil pressure, look for around 40psi when the engine’s warm, but don’t be alarmed if it drops as low as 20psi at idle.

RUNNING GEAR

Experts generally agree that the water pump is a weakness. It is barely up to the job, and many owners have fitted bigger radiators and alternative pumps to keep the cars cool in traffic. Over-tightening the fan belt contributes to premature water pump wear. Check for wear in the pump by gently trying to rock the fan blades fore and aft – and watch the temperature gauge during your test drive. Remember that a specialist will need a couple of days to replace the water pump if it’s gone.

BRAKES

Feel for movement in all the suspension and steering arms, as worn bushes play havoc with the handling. A weakness is worn trunnions, in the front suspension between the outer ends of the two-piece lower wishbone. The driveshafts have Rotoflex ‘doughnut’ couplings and you should see these as consumables. When were they last changed? Some owners have switched to non-original solid shafts; talk to your favoured specialist for views on this conversion. Then check the security of the steering rack, and satisfy yourself that the steering works as it should; racks need specialist adjustment.

OUR VERDICT

For sheer everyday driving fun, it’s hard to beat the original Elan. This is a car that just begs to be driven, and all the more so if it’s an open model and the sun’s out! Parts and maintenance back-up is widely available, and that’s a huge bonus. There isn’t much that can go wrong with an Elan that you can’t get fixed – although don’t expect bargain-basement prices. The car may have been officially a ‘kit car’ when it was new, but that was a way of avoiding taxes rather than an indication of any low-budget ethos! Our choice would be a late Series 3 SE or a Series 4, with the best performance and extra refinement.

However, an Elan is not for you if you’re not prepared to put in regular maintenance – and we do mean regular. Oil needs to be changed and the timing chain checked every 3000 miles or so, for example, which could be a chore to anyone used to today’s servicing intervals.

The Lotus Elan set new standards in early-1963 with its combination of light weight, performance and unsurpassed cornering ability – it literally does seem to go around corners as if it is running on rails. And what was exceptional back in its day is still very good today; the Elan remains a car by which many others are still measured in handling terms. The combination of light weight and innovative engineering resulted in a car that is just as nimble to drive as ever. It was on the shoulders of the Elan that Lotus established so much of its sporting reputation. And justifiably so.

The Ford Cortina-derived twin-cam engine is a lively motor that encourages you to extract the best from the car, although it can also be temperamental as well. You probably don’t want one if you don’t relish getting your hands dirty quite frequently. But, then again, you probably wouldn’t want any classic if you don’t like tinkering. The Elan just demands a little more of it sometimes, although at least you won’t have rusty bodywork to worry about, which is a bonus.

LOTUS ELITE REVIEW

Lotus

The Elite really is all about the driving experience, with handling that will come as something of a revelation to those used to competitors of the day. With just 75bhp to play with in original form you could hardly expect road-burning performance, but when it came to the twisty bits the Elite was almost unrivalled. The sharp steering and good ride quality combine to make it a terrific car on the right road, and there is a sublime balance to the handling. And just in case you do over-cook things, the brakes provide plenty of stopping power aided by the light weight construction.

The low slung interior just adds to the sensation of speed, and while it is somewhat noisy – not to mention a bit cramped for taller drivers – the cabin is a great place to be. In fact, just being able to grip that delicate alloy and wood-rimmed steering wheel is probably reason enough to buy one of these cars. The Elite really does define what Lotus was all about and is likely to prove hard to resist.

VITAL STATISTICS

Lotus elite

Engine 1216cc/4-cylinder/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm) 75bhp@6100rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 77lb ft@4900rpm

Top speed 112mph

0-60mph 11.4sec

Consumption 34mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The lack of a separate chassis means you don’t have to worry about rust, which is something of a relief with a British classic. The GRP body does bring its own problems, however, and with it the potential for huge restoration costs; it pays to give this area plenty of attention when it comes to a used purchase. Cracking or delamination of the monocoque shell are the major worries, and with repairs for specialists only, you should steer well clear of any cars that are damaged or exhibit signs of a bodged restoration. Look closely at the paintwork too as getting a smooth finish isn’t easy, and a top-notch re-spray won’t be cheap.

Another area that demands close scrutiny is where the front subframe and differential mount to the bodyshell. The mountings are bonded in place and can pull away from the body, with disastrous consequences. New shells are available, but at a cost of around £12,500 including bonnet, boot, and door panels.

ENGINE

Despite the Elite’s reputation for fragility, the Climax engine (based on a fire-engine pump unit) is very durable, but it does require careful, professional maintenance if it’s to remain that way. Many are damaged by owners who are unfamiliar with the all-aluminium unit over-torqueing nuts and bolts, so a record of specialist care is vital. With large production tolerances, original engines could suffer from high oil consumption – as much as 300 miles per pint – but most will have been rebuilt by now with modern materials and techniques all but eradicating the problem. If the car you are looking at has twin SU carburettors, it is likely to be an ‘SE’ model introduced in 1960, and with 85bhp on tap.

RUNNING GEAR

The gearbox and differential are fundamentally strong, so it is a case of listening for any rumbling or whines that point to an impending rebuild. While checking the rear axle, watch for signs of leaks from the differential oil seals as these can deposit oil on the inboard rear brake discs. And make sure the alloy casting itself is undamaged as problems here will be very bad news for the wallet.

The Elite is a light car, so serious problems with the suspension are rare unless neglected. Corrosion of the front subframe can be an issue, as can the previously mentioned mounting points, but the suspension itself can benefit from upgraded polyurethane bushes which are a popular modification. At the rear is a ‘Chapman Strut’ arrangement (a long strut with a coil spring with the driveshaft forming the lower link) which is generally trouble free, though is very sensitive to proper alignment so watch for signs of kerbing such as uneven tyre wear. Series 2 cars received tweaks to the rear suspension design, adding a radius arm arrangement for improved handling. The wheel bearings and various suspension parts need regular greasing – a fastidious previous owner should have kept on top of this.

INTERIOR

The interior of an Elite is a pretty simple place so there is little to be concerned about here. A tatty and neglected cabin will be immediately obvious and should cast doubt on the overall condition of the car. Water leaks can damage carpets and trim so check thoroughly, as a complete re-trim is unlikely to be cheap. Check too for any unsympathetic modifications as these will affect the value.

OUR VERDICT

It is very tempting to say: "because it’s a Lotus". However, a more detailed reason is that you’ll be buying the ultimate embodiment of Colin Chapman’s ‘simplify and add lightness’ philosophy.

The Elite was light years ahead of its closest competitors when it came to design and construction, features that would make it one of the finest handling sports cars of its generation.

A fully load-bearing GRP monocoque body was mated to a simple Climax engine and all-round independent suspension. And while the Elite may not have been the fastest car around in a straight line, it could out-handle many more powerful machines. And that made it pretty special.

It wasn’t a cheap car in its day – at just under £2000, it was on a par with Jaguars – and Lotus allegedly lost money on every one of the 1030 or so examples sold due to the high production costs. But for sublime looks and a wonderful driving experience, there is little to touch a well-sorted Elite.

To borrow a phrase it really is about condition, condition, condition with the Elite.

Most of the cars currently for sale have been very well looked after by respected marque specialists – find one of these and you are unlikely to be disappointed.

LOTUS ESPRIT REVIEW

Lotus

With fewer than 900 cars built, the Esprit Series 1 is a rare beast. We show you around one of Hethel’s finest ever supercars

For anyone over 6ft tall, the Esprit’s cabin is quite a tight squeeze and the fore/aft seat adjustment is limited by the engine firewall. But once you acclimatise, it’s the grip that amazes. The limits of the Esprit’s adhesion are so high that if the rear does slide, you’ll need good reflexes to catch it, as you’ll be doing silly speeds. With well-judged suspension and responsive steering, it’s a proper driver’s car. The 907 engine is flexible and tractable, pulls beautifully and is well mannered once the carbs have warmed up. As an everyday car, its lack of practicality would annoy, but as a weekend car it’s a joy.

The Lotus Esprit might look a million dollars, but it could end up costing close to that in repair bills alone if you land a bad one.

The Esprit started life as a concept car at the 1972 Turin Motor Show, the first of Giorgetto Giugiaro’s ‘folded paper’ designs that forgot curves in favour of finely chiselled lines and angles. And anything that is born as a concept is pretty damn spectacular if it ever escapes into the mainstream.

The Esprit heralded Lotus’ true transformation from kit car specialist to supercar manufacturer, although the first cars, with their Jensen-Healey two-litre engines, did lack the speed and acceleration that one might have expected from such a spectacular looker. As the ious series progressed, performance improved, as did Lotus’ attention to build quality, which was initially pretty woeful. However, it was only in 1980, when Lotus strapped on Garrett AiResearch T3 turbochargers onto the engines of limited edition Essex models that what the cars could do finally correlated with the stunning presence. That put top speed up to over 150mph and the 0-60mph to five seconds.

It may be a two-seater, but unlike some sports cars, the Esprit provides plenty of space inside its cosy cabin, with a plunging dashboard, bucket seats and high transmission tunnel resulting in a luxurious cabin that totally envelops passengers.

Lotus’ focus has always been more on handling than straight-line speed, and the Esprit conforms to its benchmark standards of manoeuvrability. With its light weight, ground-hugging profile and midmounted engine, the Esprit is an utter treat on twisty roads – you’ll lose confidence long before the car will lose grip, although if you do get silly, an Esprit can break away in a shockingly scary way. That balanced, flickable ability on bends means you can forgive it not actually being that fast, unless you’re in a Turbo, in which case all the essential supercar elements are in place. The Esprit does share one of the major foibles of mid-engined supercars however – rearward visibility is far from great. It’s a nightmare to park.

Owning an Esprit isn’t a proposition you enter into lightly. As tempting as it may be to own something with supercar looks for much less than you’d pay for a mainland European equivalent, just be wary that these are high maintenance cars, and unless you’re prepared to do some of the basic jobs yourself, ownership costs can be high. That said, if you’re prepared to open your heart and wallet to an Esprit, it can be an immensely rewarding classic. It is one of the most eye-catching British sports cars ever constructed. Find the right road, where you can exploit the handling prowess, and there’s very little to compare with an Esprit. The word itself stands for ‘liveliness of mind or spirit’ and this is one of those machines that completely fulfils the title bestowed on it.

VITAL STATISTICS

Lotus Esprit S1

Engine 1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@6200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 140lb ft@4900rpm

Top speed 124mph

0-60mph 8.6sec

Consumption 26mpg

Gearbox 5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The good news is that rust is not an issue on the GRP body, but you do need to check for stress cracks around any moving parts, such as the boot, door and tailgate hinges, as well as around the A-pillars. Paint lacquer can lift on metallic cars, so budget for a respray if this is the case.

Items sliding around in the boot can cause starburst cracks to appear – as well as stonechip impacts. These can only be repaired by rebonding in new fibreglass and repainting.

The fit and finish of the moulding is usually very good, so if there are any alignment or poor fit issues, check for evidence of crash damage.

The Series 1 didn’t have a galvanised chassis, so check it with care on a ramp. While the bodywork does protect it to a certain extent, cars that have been driven hard tend to burn the coating off the chassis around the exhaust manifold, so check this area in particular, together with the fragile box section parts on the front of the chassis.

Another rust spot are the fuel tanks – there are two of them – each located behind the seats. They’re fiddly to get at and replacement aluminium tanks costs £250 a side.

ENGINE

Oil leaks from the 907 engine’s rocker covers are common but easy to fix with rubber gaskets available to replace the original cork items. The carbs need to be checked for leaks around the fuel lines – fires have claimed many Esprits. Check the banjo bolts on the fuel lines are tight and the cast exhaust manifold for leaks – it’s difficult to get at and the bolts often shear, meaning the cylinder head has

to be removed.

Regular servicing is key to this engine and clean oil, together with translucent coolant, are vital to its health. The oil needs changing at least every 6000 miles and check for a genuine Lotus oil filter.

As the filter is mounted high up on the engine, it’s vital it has a filter with an anti-drain valve. You should see 35psi at around 3500rpm when the engine is warm.

The cambelt and tensioners are easily available but it’s a difficult job due to the access. Check the water pump for leaks; these can be pricey to replace, but Lotus specialists can usually recondition them for less than £100.

ELECTRICS

Ensure the electric fans kicks in and that there are no drips from the long pipes that connect the front-mounted radiator to the engine, or any corrosion in the expansion tank. Washer bottle spillage can cause the electrical fan connections to corrode.

RUNNING GEAR

The Citroën SM gearbox is not the toughest of units, but can cope with the S1’s modest power. The spigot bearing must be changed during clutch swaps – check the receipts for this as it can damage the crankshaft if it fails. Equally, the clutch release bearing is not cheap (£140-£300) so check the clutch with care. The gears should select easily, too – if they don’t you’ll need to budget for the various linkage bushes to be replaced.

BRAKES

The Esprit uses inexpensive brake discs at the front, but the inboard mounted rear discs can be fiddly to get at and cost around £90 a disc – so check they’re in good order. Bear in mind that the driveshafts need to be removed to change the rear pads and discs, which adds to the cost. Handbrake cables are prone to seizing, too.

The front suspension uses unequal length wishbones with Maxi wheel bearings. The front trunions have grease nipples and, together with the bearings, need to be greased at the correct intervals. Long rear trailing arms link to a fabricated hub and transverse lower link. The driveshaft forms the upper wishbone, so the UJs at either end have a lot of work to do. These must be greased regularly and checked for play. Dampers are inexpensive at around £60 for the fronts and £85 for the rears and it’s wise to fit polyurethane bushes during any suspension work as it saves MoT issues in the long run.

OUR VERDICT

The Esprit S1’s dramatic styling is like nothing else on the road and the rust-free body means that it’ll stay looking great for years, providing you buy a good one in the first place. The compact cabin takes some getting used to and it’s certainly not a car you’d want to use every day, but on a twisty road on a sunny day it delivers an incredible driving experience.

LOTUS ESPRIT S1 REVIEW

Lotus

Lotus’ focus has always been more on handling than straight-line speed, and the Esprit conforms to its benchmark standards of manoeuvrability. With its light weight, ground-hugging profile and mid-mounted engine, the Esprit is an utter treat on twisty roads – you’ll lose confidence long before the car will lose grip, although if you do get silly, an Esprit can break away in a shockingly scary way. That balanced, flickable ability on bends means you can forgive it not actually being that fast, unless you’re in a Turbo, in which case all the essential supercar elements are in place. The Esprit does share one of the major foibles of mid-engined supercars however – rearward visibility is far from great. It’s a nightmare to park.

VITAL STATISTICS

Lotus Esprit S1

Engine 1973cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 160bhp@6200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 140lb ft@ 4900rpm

Top speed 124mph

0-60mph 8.4sec

Consumption 23mpg

Gearbox 5-spd manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Body corrosion isn’t an issue, thanks to glassfibre construction, and the shell is pretty resilient. The nose is prone to stone chips and the entire body should be checked for star cracks and signs of accident damage repair, most likely in the corners.

You’ll need to get under the car to check the chassis for corrosion, likely to occur around the insulating (and water-absorbing) layer of felt between the chassis and the body. From May 1980, a galvanised chassis was adopted.

ENGINE

Three engines were used – the Type 907 (2.0-litre), 912 (2.2-litre) and 910 (2.2-litre with a whopping great turbocharger attached). The engines have a reputation for fragility, so look for evidence of their 6000-mile/six-month service intervals using a genuine anti-drain valve Lotus oil filter fitted. Listen for big end rumblings when the engine is started – a sign of oil starvation if a Lotus filter hasn’t been used. Oil pressure should show 35psi at 3500rpm to 45psi at 6500rpm, although at idle it can drop as low as 5psi. Cambelts need to be changed every 24,000 miles or two years. On turbo cars, the wastegate can seize – so you won’t hear that distinctive ‘pssssst’ and the boost pressure gauge won’t climb above 0.8bar.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes are from the Citroën SM, and finding parts is like looking for a mechanical needle in an automotive haystack. So ensure on your test drive that the changes are slick and smooth; worn cables and bushes will make them difficult. Listen for whining too – a sign of bearings past their best. If the clutch has recently been renewed, ask if the spigot bearing was done at the same time; it needs to be lubricated, and if it isn’t, it can fail and junk the crankshaft at the same time.

Heavy steering points to a worn out steering rack, with S3 models most likely to suffer from this, due to wider wheels. At best, you’ll probably see 48,000 miles from a rack. Also check the steering self-centres – if it doesn’t, the universal joint on the column has likely seized, although this is quite cheap to replace. Clonks while accelerating and decelerating point to suspension universal joints past their best, and bearings also wear quite frequently as well. On post-1985 cars, a Toyota front suspension set-up was used, which is much better than the previous system with trunnions requiring regular lubrication. Look around the anti-roll bar mountings on all cars, though – the lower wishbones can crack in this area.

BRAKES

Test the handbrake – it seizes easily because it can’t be lubricated. The lever itself can even break away on S1/2 cars because it gets knocked easily. The mounting was strengthened on S3 cars. Do check the plastic clutch slave cylinder pipe – it goes brittle, and can spill fluid over the rear brakes, which can then catch fire and burn out the whole car. Braided upgrades are available.

INTERIOR

Several different upholstery types were used – it’s really only leather you need to check closely, for signs of cracking. The bonded windscreen on S1/2 models tends to leak with age, so look on the dash for signs of water ingress. Electrical problems are often traced back to bad earths, due to the plastic body.

OUR VERDICT

The Esprit heralded Lotus’ true transformation from kit car specialist to supercar manufacturer, although the first cars, with their Jensen-Healey two-litre engines, did lack the speed and acceleration that one might have expected from such a spectacular looker. As the various series progressed, performance improved, as did Lotus’ attention to build quality, which was initially pretty woeful. However, it was only in 1980, when Lotus strapped on Garrett AiResearch T3 turbochargers onto the engines of limited edition Essex models that what the cars could do finally correlated with the stunning presence. That put top speed up to over 150mph and the 0-60mph to five seconds.

LOTUS EUROPA REVIEW

Lotus

We enthuse over Hethel’s unique wedge-shaped sports car

Driving a Lotus Europa is quite an experience. As period advertising admitted: "The Lotus inflames passions. Some love it, some hate it."

From the outset, you are cocooned in a small but practical interior with a superbly responsive throttle thanks to a lightweight flywheel. The result? Bliss for some drivers, a feeling of claustrophobia for others.

Steering requires very little effort and the mid-mounted engine buzzes behind you like an angry wasp. Series 1 cars are considered to be the better handling, since they were constructed with a backbone chassis, which meant that the plastic body was bonded to it, adding rigidity.

Later cars may not be quite so sophisticated in design, but they were given much more powerful engines, so it’s a swings-and-roundabouts situation. Whichever Europa you select, you’re assured of getting plenty of attention, and loads of rear-wheel drive fun, while the overall lightness of the car makes for a true Lotus experience.

VITAL STATISTICS

Series 1 (Renault engined)

Engine 1470cc/4-cyl/SOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 82bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 79lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed 116mph

0-60mph 9.1sec

Consumption 29mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

Special editions like the John Player Special are rare, and therefore generally more expensive. However, be aware that there are a number of fake JPS editions on the market.

The only way to fully check what you are buying is to cross-reference the chassis identification number with Club Lotus or Lotus itself. You’ll find the unit identification plate on the left-hand side of the bulkhead in the engine compartment.

Look out for rust, because even a clean-looking Europa hides its corrosion surprisingly well. Rot spots include the rear trailing links, chassis mounts and anywhere the chassis is joined to the body – corrosion on the chassis can be incredibly expensive to fix. And bear in mind that a new chassis can affect prices when it comes to selling on the car, as many Lotus enthusiasts are very particular about originality.

The exterior is one of the reasons this car is so special – nothing else looks quite like it. Made from glassfibre, it can be expensive to fix even minor body damage. Sagging doors are a common complaint from Europa owners, so it makes sense to check that the door hinges are solid, gapped right, or have been suitably reinforced.

The seat belt mounts are made from mild steel, so check the chassis. If there’s any corrosion, chances are the belt mounts will be in a much worse state, as their position means they don’t get any protection from the elements.

ENGINE

Engine parts can be pricey if you buy an early Renault-engined Europa. Although the Renault lump is reliable, parts are hard to come by, so listen out for lumpy rattles and check for oil leaks. The Lotus twin-cam engine is also reliable, but parts are much more readily available, and therefore cheaper. Remember to check the radiator as cooling is essential in a car as quick as the Europa.

RUNNING GEAR

Gearboxes can need attention with the Europa, often requiring maintenance due to the manner in which the linkages are placed in the car. Kits can be bought to improve this, although these can be expensive and fiddly to fit. A wide gearbox gate might feel unusual and a whining from it can be disastrous as it could mean bearing failure.

INTERIOR

Lotus is not famed for its interior fit and finish, and it shows in the Europa. Original windscreens are prone to leaks which can result in the wood finish swelling and cracking.

Check if the windscreen has been replaced otherwise you may have to steel yourself for wet instruments and ill-fitting wood trim. Other potential headaches include electrical faults caused by poor earthing, as well as water ingress through badly bonded windscreens.

OUR VERDICT

The Lotus Europa has always been something of an acquired taste. While the car has its supporters, the unconventional bodyshape means that it never quite achieved the more conventional widespread popularity of the Elan and +2.

The original Europa was produced between 1966 and 1975, with styling by a pre-Black and Decker workmate Ron Hickman, at the time a director of Lotus engineering. Not only was the boxy shape radical for its time, but with a drag coefficient of just 0.29cd, it was wickedly fast. Series 1 cars were powered by a 82bhp Renault-derived engine, but serious fun could still be had since it only weighed 610kg. Series 1s are rare these days, but Series 2 cars are more readily available. There are also special editions such as the John Player Special models, which commemorated Lotus’s Grand Prix campaigns.

In total, almost 9000 Europas were eventually produced, with many cars being sold in the US. This means the car is a relatively rare sight in the UK.

The Europa has aged gracefully, and while it isn’t classically beautiful, there still nothing else like it on the road. Looks go an awfully long way with sports cars such as these. Luckily, the car comes with bags of character as standard.

Taller customers may have to look elsewhere, as the inside of the Europa is bestdescribed as being ‘condensed’. Being mid-engined, it handles superbly, but be prepared to sacrifice storage space for performance. But who buys a Lotus with practicality in mind anyway?

While not super-rare, Europas are still pretty uncommon, with prices for even the worst examples heading into five figures.
A perfect Europa comes at a hefty premium.

CLASSIC CAR REVIEWS - LOTUS EXCEL

Lotus

No doubt about it: the Lotus Excel is one of the true forgotten greats. It may have been little more than a heavily tweaked Eclat, but the modern touches employed by design genius, Peter Stevens (whose CV includes such luminaries as the McLaren F1, M100 Lotus Elan and 555-liveried Subaru Impreza WRC) brought the car bang up to date for the 1980s, thanks to the smoother nose and wider-looking body.
Marque snobs tend to sneer at this, somewhat, but considering the much-lauded Ferrari 355 is really nothing more than an extensively re-designed 348, this hardly seems fair.
It’s certainly a very handsome car; the rear is a
little bulky-looking, perhaps, but from every other angle it’s at least a match for some of its rather more famous siblings.
And boy, does it go well. The surprisingly popular SA (which used a tried and tested ZF self-shifting gearbox) is perhaps the obvious anachronism in the line-up, but the manuals, with their Lotus-designed 2.2-litre naturally aspirated engines are sports cars through and through.
The Lotus Excel’s interior is very much of an era. It feels right, from the low-set driving position and high-set transmission tunnel, to the feel of the chunky three-spoke steering wheel, but in terms of style, you can do better.
If you can get past the questionable aesthetics, however, the Excel, well, excels in pretty much every other respect. It may lack the neck-snapping urge of a blown Esprit, but Lotus founder, Colin Chapman’s maxim of ‘simplify and add lightness’ certainly applies here: 180bhp (on later cars at least) in a car that weighs comfortably less than 1200kg is always going to feel rapid, and with maximum power coming on song at a gloriously screaming 6500rpm, every journey is hugely entertaining.
And this is a Lotus, of course, so you can pretty much guarantee that the handling will be epic
Lotus may be an acronym of Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious to blinkered badge snobs who really ought to change the record, but bag a sound example, and you’ll end up with one of today’s genuine performance car bargains.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 The Excel was always marketed as a sports car, but while you’d therefore expect a degree of engine and road noise at speed, the Excel can border on the unbearable, since Lotus was notoriously tight-fisted with the amount of sound-deadening it fitted at the factory. Don’t let this put you off an otherwise healthy and sound car, however, since modern sound-deadening can be retro-fitted relatively easily (and relatively inexpensively, if you shop around), especially in the doors.

2 Ask any owner of a 1980s Lotus, and they’ll tell you that the biggest headache these cars present concerns electrics. Dashboard gauges (the fuel and oil pressure gauges seem to be the guiltiest parties) can tell all sorts of lies if a sender connection is either badly earthed, corroded or loose.
If all else fails, it’s worth checking the major earthing point located on the brake pedal box, since many of theelectrical harness systems and engine electrics are earthed here.

3 Juddering from any car’s steering at low speeds should always be investigated as a matter of course, since it’s usually indicative of something seriously awry. Where the Excel is concerned, however, chances are it’s all part and parcel of the car’s inherent design. For reasons best known to Lotus, the Excel’s steering geometry was designed intentionally without any form of front-wheel Ackerman angle. So the two front wheels lack the geometry whereby they describe differing arcs as the steering wheel is turned to ensure their perpendicular angle meets the rear axle line at the same point., meaning low-speed manoeuvres in an Excel can be disconcertingly scrabbly and juddery affairs, especially on loose surfaces. It sounds alarming, but the factory insisted from the outset that the Excel’s high-speed handling and steering feel was much improved as a result of this idiosyncrasy. They are pointy but ‘alive’ in your hands at speed.

4 Like many Lotus models before it, the Excel relied heavily on out-sourced parts throughout its construction, meaning tracking down spares is easier than usual. Some are obvious – the tail lights are inverted Rover SD1 units, for instance. Naturally the moisture drain holes are therefore placed incorrectly, so they can fill up with dirt and mould. Other details are less obvious; following Toyota’s involvement of Lotus in the development of its Supra sports coupé, the Mk2 Supra’s W58 manual transmission was used in early Excels (albeit in conjunction with a Lotus bellhousing), together with the driveshafts and differential. Similarly, the clutch master cylinder is shared with the Toyota Carina Mk2 and various Celicas, while the pop-up headlight motors are also used on the Mk1 Toyota MR2.

5 The Excel’s 2.2-litre slant-four Type 912 engine is generally a fairly robust unit, but again can suffer from iffy electrics. A persistent misfire and/or stalling may be traced back to fuel starvation issues, but it’s not unheard of for the distributor’s pick-up wire to create similar problems. Replacing an original or cheap after-market distributor is generally thought to be a good place to start when attempting to rectify a poor-running Excel engine.

6 You won’t suffer any rust issues with that Oliver Winterbottom-designed (and for the Excel, Peter Stevens-tweaked) wedge-shaped GRP body, of course, but look carefully for common related issues. Star cracks, crazing, mis-matched paintwork and impact damage all suggest less than kid-glove treatment.

7 Poor front seats? Those from the contemporary Jaguar XJS slot right in, using the existing seat runners. They are slightly narrower but much easier to find.

OUR VERDICT
Think ‘1980s Lotus’, and most people instantly picture the Esprit turbo. That’s a shame, but it does mean that Excel values, have remained super-low for many years. Silly-priced ultra-low milers still pop up every now and then, but the fact remains that even mint Excels won’t set you back by much more than £6000 – and that’s from a dealer. Lower your sights a little, and you can still bag a perfectly good example for around £4000.
The interiors – of earlier cars in particular – might make you wince a little, with their ruched leather and faux wood trim, but get one onto a tricky back road with lots of dips and blind cambers, and you’ll soon learn to tune it out as you exploit these cars’ legendary performance and handling.
Is the Excel one of the performance car bargains of the decade? We certainly think so.

  Lotus

  Excel

LOTUS ELAN SPRINT REVIEW

Lotus

The most potent of the original Elans; the Sprint needs buying with care...

The pedals are close together, so care is needed. Once on the move, the engine delivers plenty of power with a wonderful barking engine note. The slick gearchange is a delight, allowing you to keep the engine at peak power. It’s the handling that astonishes though. It’s so light to control yet so uncannily good in the bends. Grip levels truly amaze, while the steering keeps you informed clearly about how you are doing. Push it too much in the wet and yes, the rear end can get lively. You’ll want to push it though, just because of how good it feels; the Elan quickly becomes addictive.

VITAL STATISTICS

1970-1973 Lotus Elan Sprint

Engine 1558cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 126bhp@6500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 113lb ft@5500rpm

Top speed 118mph

0-60mph 7sec

Consumption 25mpg

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The biggest problem is knowing if a Sprint is genuine. It’s very easy to make a non-Sprint look like a Sprint, as paintwork was generally the only clue. Club Lotus holds details of the original chassis records, so can help on this score. That said, Lotus itself converted some S4s into Sprints – the Sprint was really only a run-out model to shift Elans once the new Europa had arrived.

Make sure that the headlamps pop-up as they should. They are vacuum operated, using the chassis front crossmember as a reservoir. Check the nose carefully for stonechips. Finding an Elan on its original chassis is increasingly unlikely, though it may command a premium – as long as it isn’t rotten. Ideally, you need to be able to get under the car to take a thorough look.

You can still get a replacement chassis from Lotus for about £1800, though by the time it is fitted, you could end up spending £8000 or more as you really need to refresh the mechanicals and all suspension bushes while you are at it.

The windscreen frames can suffer, especially on a restoration project. Make sure it isn’t prone to movement on a drophead – which the vast majority of Sprints are. Make sure you check the hood for condition – easily forgotten if checking a car on a sunny day. Check that the windows operate smoothly.

Some Sprint coupés have been converted into dropheads. This generally isn’t a problem, due to that strong, backbone chassis, but can affect values. The chassis number is the giveaway – again, Club Lotus can help confirm what the specification was when it left the factory. Sprints also had the bulged bonnet fitted. In addition, improved bonnet catches were used.

ENGINE

The Sprint engine features a two per cent increase in power over standard Elans. The Big Valve engines are clearly labelled as such. They’re fairly tough as engines go, but can burn a little oil, so the odd puff of blue exhaust smoke is generally considered normal. Watch for leaks from the water pump, as the cylinder head must be removed to replace it.

An electric cooling fan is fitted, so make sure it isn’t trying to run all of the time once up to temperature. It should cut in as required. An engine rebuild will likely cost around £4000, so listen out for big end knocks and be concerned if clouds of blue smoke are produced.

Gearboxes are generally hardy, with a delightful, precise action. Crunchy changes suggest either a dragging clutch or weak synchromesh. A very few late cars had a five-speed gearbox.

RUNNING GEAR

The rear suspension originally used rubber doughnuts, like a MkII Triumph Vitesse. As with the Triumph, there were supply issues a few

years ago, but you can now get quality replacements. It’s generally the preferred option, though some have converted to sliding or CV joints. Listen out for creaks or rattles from the
rear end and if you can, check the differential mountings.

Suspension condition is very important. These were a ground-breaking car when new in the handling department, and they should still feel exceptionally good today. A car that feels skittish or bouncy probably needs new dampers.

INTERIOR

Inside, most trim is available but seat frames can be a problem. Give them a good wiggle to check that they aren’t broken or loose. Later Sprints had the key on the steering column rather than the dashboard. Make sure all of the dashboard gauges work correctly.

OUR VERDICT

With rising values, now really is the time to buy. It seems wrong to see a car such as the Elan as an investment though. It’s from behind the wheel that the Elan really delivers pleasure, with its age-defying performance and handling.

LOTUS ELISE REVIEW

Lotus

If ever a car adhered strictly to Colin Chapman’s ‘simplify, then add lightness’ maxim, then the Lotus Elise is definitely it. We consider buying one as a classic proposition today

Conceived as the spiritual successor to the Lotus Elan, the Elise ripped up the rule book for a new generation of sports car wannabes in 1996. Compact mid-engined sportsters were nothing new at the time (the Toyota MR2 had been around since 1984 and Fiat/Bertone X1/9 production had stopped only seven years previously), but the Elise came as a flyweight bolt from the blue after years of development of the weighty Esprit and the opinion-polarising M100 Elan.

VITAL STATISTICS

LOTUS ELISE

Engine 1796cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 118bhp@5500rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 122lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed 125mph

0-60mph 5.8sec

Consumption 39.8mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

For once, the word ‘rust’ will be largely absent here, since the Elise comprises a GRP tub that’s been allied to a chassis made from lightweight bonded aluminium extrusions.

The usual GRP checks apply, however. Mismatched paint or evidence of overspray signifies that body repairs have been made at some point. Check for crazing or star-cracks in the gelcoat, too.

That low nose renders the front foglights vulnerable to stone-chip damage. Given that repair involves the replacement of the entire unit (and the removal of the front clamshell), this can be costly. Corroded headlight reflectors should be replaced as a matter of course, too.

ENGINE

Series 1 cars used Rover’s oft-maligned K-series 1.8-litre 16-valve engine, so job number one should involve checking that both the original cylinderhead gasket and inlet manifold gasket have been replaced with later, uprated items. If they haven’t, they’re living on borrowed time.

The K-series engine is generally oil-tight, but it’s still worth checking the area around the crankshaft, as the sealing rings can fail. Puddles of fluid inside the undertray, or oil stains around the bottom of the engine, always warrant closer investigation.

Being mid-engined, the Elise’s cooling system works extremely hard, so check for failure of the coolant header tank cap, a blocked or damaged radiator and the tightness of the coolant pipe clips. The last of these can prove so weak that it will allow a pipe to actually burst off its mounting, with inevitable consequences.

RUNNING GEAR

Elises are popular with the track day fraternity, so it’s imperative that you check for evidence of any ‘offs’. Damaged (or missing) undertrays can be indicative of repeated sharp contact with speed humps, but might also have been caused by a high-speed exit from the bottom of the Craner Curves. The car should not be driven with the central undertray removed. A rattling sound from the front of the car is usually either from play in the steering rack (with outright replacement usually the only answer) or worn nylon anti-roll bar pivot blocks.

Less seriously, the rack’s protective rubber gaiters have a habit of degrading, especially on cars that are used all year round. Play in the wheel itself is usually as a result of worn or broken ball-joints.

A suddenly obstructive gearshift action may be gearbox related, but early cars’ red hydraulic clutch pipes, which can expand and lose pressure when hot, create similar problems. Later cars were fitted with a braided pipe that solved the problem at a stroke.

INTERIOR

That lovely-looking aluminium trim is easily scratched and can eventually start to look really shabby. There’s not much you can do about this, so haggle on the price accordingly.

Vertical movement in the seats is often indicative of loose or missing retaining bolts. These should be tightened or replaced and then secured with a dab of threadlock. Stiff or non-operative windows are usually caused by loose or missing screws in the winding mechanism.

Indicator/wiper stalks are known to fail, too – but since they’re shared with various period Vauxhalls, locating replacements is currently easy and cheap.

Other common Elise irritants include sticking and/or squeaking clutch and accelerator pedals. The former is down to the flawed design of early cars’ pedal trunnions (modified after July 1999), while the latter is commonly as a result of a heat-damaged plastic throttle body. Upgrading to a metal body will solve the problem.

OUR VERDICT

Simple: for its otherwordly handling. Nothing this side of a Caterham offers the sort of housefly-nimble road-holding that a sorted Elise musters for the same sort of money.

The car’s inherent lightness makes even the K-Series 1.8 engine feel super-quick, while the close ratio gearbox and super-responsive steering merely enhance what is an already mind-blowing driving experience.