Maurice Wilks, head of design at Rover at the time, is credited with the original idea for the Land Rover immediately after the War. Mr Wilks needed a vehicle which would not only keep going over a iety of ground conditions but would tow, plough, do ious other agricultural tasks and drive other machinery. He tried an ex-WD half-track Ford truck and then a Willys Jeep which might have been more acceptable had it not been an imported product. He came to the conclusion that there was probably a world-wide market for a versatile, go anywhere, Jeep-like vehicle at the same time his brother Spencer Wilks - managing director of Rover - was looking for a stop-gap project to utilize spare factory capacity until such a time as the planned post-war Rover model programme could be put into effect. Various special models were offered from early on by the factory, including mobile compressor and welding vehicles, a fire engine, and an estate car. Rover soon abandoned these models, delegating these projects to outside firms so that they could concentrate on the manufacture of station wagons, pick-ups, double cabs, and hard and soft tops. The rest is history, with a iety of wheelbases offered from 80'', 86'', 88'', 107'', 109'', followed by 90'' and 110'' from 1985, these being known as the Defender Ninety and One Ten.
LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER REVIEW
We take a look at the classic 4x4 – not the first but probably the most famous.
Spearheaded by Charles Spencer King and launched in 1970, the original Range Rover continues to influence the motoring world today. It was intended as a utility vehicle back then, with vinyl seats and rubber mats – the wood ‘n’ leather luxury was to come later. It wasn’t until 1981 that a four-door became available, while power was supplied by a 135bhp version of the Buick-derived 3.5-litre V8. Lucas fuel injection improved efficiency and economy in 1984, upping power to 155bhp, and an enlarged 3.9-litre version of the same engine appeared in 1990. Diesel power came courtesy of a more economical but sluggish 2.4-litre VM unit in 1988.
Comfortable and hugely capable off-road, the Range Rover showed that mud-plugging ability didn’t have to come at the expense of refinement. The association with the British monarchy over the years did nothing to harm its image either.
VITAL STATISTICS
Range Rover V8, 1972
Engine 3528cc/V8/OHV
Power (bhp@rpm) 135bhp@4750rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 185lb ft@2500rpm
Top speed 90mph
0-60mph 14.2sec
Consumption 15mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
Despite having some aluminium panels, rot is still a major factor on older Range Rovers and is the one issue where you don’t want to take any chances. Areas that demand careful checking include the sills, floorpan, rear chassis member, inner front wings and front bulkhead. Extensive rust in these areas is very costly to put right and not always easy to spot. The most obvious sign of rot tends to be the tailgate and there is a brisk trade in used replacements. Don’t ignore the upper tailgate frame either – a new Land Rover part is pricey, though an aluminium frame kit can be bought for around £200. You can also expect some electrolytic corrosion on those alloy panels, but yawning gaps between panels is par for the course. The availability of replacement parts is good.
ENGINE
The good news is that the ubiquitous 3.5-litre unit was fundamentally strong and any mechanic worth their salt can repair them. Not so good is the propensity for overheating, which leads to cracked cylinderheads and head gasket failure, so keep a close eye on the temperature gauge on the test drive. Oil leaks are another bugbear, with the front crank seal being a weak point. However, blockage of the flame traps located on the rocker covers can pressurise the crankcase, forcing oil from the breather pipe. It’s worth checking here first before assuming oil is escaping elsewhere. Using the incorrect oil can accelerate wear of the camshaft and followers, while using an oil additive will improve the longevity of early engines. The serious fuel-thirst also prompted many owners to opt for an LPG conversion, so ask to see the relevant certificates. These engines also appreciate regular oil changes so make sure the previous owner hasn’t skimped on basic maintenance.
RUNNING GEAR
Both manual and automatic transmissions last well as long as they haven’t been abused. Excessive noise or clunks from the driveline could point to problems with the transfer box or differentials, and replacing either is costly. Oil leaks from just about any part of the transmission system are a regular occurrence, so take a good look underneath (experts will check for tell-tale puddles as soon as they approach a car). Also look for any signs of off-road damage to the chassis or suspension components – these can take a battering over time and are a good indicator of a car’s past life. A wallowing ride means springs and dampers are past their best, while vague steering and a tendency to wander on the road can be caused by worn suspension bushes – those in the rear trailing arms and front radius arms are common culprits, but replacement costs are reasonable. Power steering fluid leaks are worth checking, though the earliest cars did without power assistance turning any drive into a real muscle-building experience.
INTERIOR
The interiors of early models were pretty basic and replacement parts are getting scarce – a complete re-trim is often more cost effective than trying to renew parts. However, it wasn’t long before some luxury was added to the 4x4 mix, with the later and very popular Vogue trim being a feast of wood, leather, and electric motors. Overall quality was below par, though, so it takes careful checking to make sure that everything works as it should. A sagging headlining is a common problem and something of
a nightmare to replace, while weak door seals will lead to a damp and musty cabin.
OUR VERDICT
The phrase ‘timeless classic’ is something of a cliché, but it certainly applies to the Range Rover. Few vehicles have managed to marry style and ability with such ease, and despite the explosion of imitators, they remain at the top of the 4x4 pile. The usual BL quality troubles means finding a good one isn’t easy but there is a wealth of specialist expertise out there to help you. Many have been smitten by that imperious driving position – try it for yourself and you won’t be disappointed.
LAND ROVER SERIES I REVIEW
The S1 was a light utility with four-wheel-drive to deliver rough-terrain ability that no other light commercial had. The base model was a pick-up, usually with a canvas tilt in the UK. Tickford’s coachbuilt Station Wagon was too expensive to last beyond 1951, but a "Meccano-set" wagon appeared in 1953. The original model had an 80-inch wheelbase, while from 1953, an 86-inch wheelbase gave more space. From 1956 88 inches made room for the optional diesel engine.
VITAL STATISTICS
LAND-ROVER SERIES I 86-INCH
Engine 1997cc/4-cyl/overhead inlet
Power (bhp@rpm) 52bhp@4000rpm
Torque (lb ft@rpm) 101 lb ft @1500rpm
Top speed 60mph
0-60mph 25sec
Consumption 23mpg
Gearbox 4-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The panels are Birmabright aluminium alloy with galvanised steel cappings to stiffen and hold them together; the bulkhead and door frames are also steel. The alloy corrodes where it touches steel, but can also be gashed from hard use. Don’t worry if the paint has worn off; the panels won’t rust.
However, the bulkhead is critical to the whole structure, so you should always make sure that it is sound. Check particularly in the footwells and at the exposed ends, which form the door pillars. Re-manufactured bulkheads can be bought, but a re-build is a big job.
Some 86 and 88 Station Wagons were created from pick-up models by adding the relevant body parts. It takes an expert to spot the fakes. Tickford Station Wagons have a unique timber-framed body and are very expensive to restore. Some body parts for the 107 Station Wagons can be hard to find.
ENGINE
Petrol engines all have the same basic design, with overhead inlet and side exhaust valves. The 1948-1951 80-inch has a 1595cc type, and all later Series Is have a 1997cc type. Up to mid-1954, these have siamesed bores; later ones have water between all the bores. The diesels were only in 88-inch and 109-inch chassis, and are 2052cc OHV types. Of course, lots of other engines can be persuaded to fit, and have been!
The diesels were always slow and noisy, and are rare in good condition today. The petrol engines enjoy good parts support, although you may have to settle for some non-original items. An engine in good condition purrs gently and pulls well, although good road performance was never on the agenda. Tappets need regular adjustment, and oil leaks are more or less standard. Expect a smell of petrol: you’re sitting on the tank!
RUNNING GEAR
The chassis was not galvanised as standard, despite persistent rumours to the contrary. It’s a strong box-section design, and the outriggers that carry the body rust first. Check the top surfaces of the side members, where rust can go unnoticed. Look carefully at the back end, too, especially the rear cross-member.
Land-Rovers can obviously be subjected to rougher than usual use, so check for chassis damage. The cross-member under the gearbox might have been rammed hard up against the gearbox casing. The all-round leaf springs can sag and break from neglect. They are handed and there are several types; a lopsided look suggests the wrong ones have been fitted. Spring bushes and shackles are further consumable items.
Axles may be noisy, but can go on for a long time if they are oil-tight. Half-shafts break, and are difficult to find. The gearbox has no synchromesh between first and second; watch for it jumping out of mesh on the over-run. Expect clunks and bangs in the driveline because there are a lot of joints in it. The front hub swivels should have a smooth, chromed finish; pitting causes oil leaks and wear.
INTERIOR
Don’t expect sophistication. Bodies will not be water-tight or exclude draughts; that’s all part of their charm.
There are three front seats, unless the centre one has been removed for access to a centre power take-off. Station Wagons have inward-facing seats in the rear, and 107 wagons an additional centre row. The upholstery is vinyl and will likely be green (or, less commonly, grey or blue).
OUR VERDICT
You get character with a Land-Rover – bags of it. They are great fun to drive (but not for long distances), will go where ordinary cars simply won’t go, and are strangely addictive. A Series I Land-Rover is not like any other classic car you’ll buy, and you really will get to love its faults. It can actually be useful, too.
LAND ROVER 90 / DEFENDER REVIEW
With production ending this year, now is the perfect time to put this classic mud-plugger under the spotlight...
Driving a Land Rover is always an experience, and the short wheelbase 90 – or Defender as it became in 1990 – is a classic example of the genre. Generally speaking, the earlier the model the more agricultural it feels on the road, but even the very latest cars are hardly paragons of comfort or refinement. That’s not really the point of these vehicles, of course, as the Landie was designed to offer long-lasting go-anywhere ability rather than cosset its occupants. But it does mean that you need to try one before you take the plunge as they most definitely aren’t for everyone. Indeed, on first acquaintance you might be forgiven for thinking that it was designed to be as challenging as possible, what with its hefty controls and poor driving position. You sit very upright for one thing, with limited seat adjustability, and the narrowness of the cabin means that banging you’re elbow on the driver’s door is almost inevitable as you twirl the wheel. The chunky pedals – ideally spaced for driving in wellies – feel weighty and the gearlever needs a firm hand, although it has to be said, there’s a satisfyingly mechanical feel to all the controls. Oh yes, and then there’s the ride and handling. The former is bouncy at just about any speed while any hint of over-enthusiasm – especially in the wet – will soon have the chunky tyres relinquishing their grip on the road. All of which forces a more sedate driving style, which if nothing else helps limit the intrusive levels of road, wind, and engine noise. You’ll probably not be surprised to find that things are pretty crude in the cabin too, with basic materials and construction and little in the way of kit on most models. So it’s not much fun then? Well, actually for many people it’s just the opposite. Make no mistake, allowances need to be made but the Landie is incredibly practical, and it’s durability and off-road credentials are almost unmatched. Approach it with an open mind, then, and it could be the most fun you’ve had behind the wheel in ages.
VITAL STATISTICS
Land Rover 90 TDi
Engine 2495cc/4-cyl/OHC
Power 85bhp@4000rpm
Torque 150lb ft@1800rpm
Top speed 74mph
0-60mph 22.3secs
Economy 22mpg
Gearbox 5-speed manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
BODYWORK & CHASSIS
The place to start with these is underneath, as problems there are going to be the most expensive. Major chassis or bulkhead corrosion can be sorted but replacement can be upwards of £4000 and £3000 respectively, so check carefully. A car that’s a patchwork of welding beneath is probably best dismissed, and it’s worth bearing in mind that farmyard grot can accelerate corrosion so be wary of mud-laden examples. Areas to check include the body mounting points, outriggers, rear crossmember, and footwells. Watch for DIY bodgery too.
Don’t be alarmed by the fairly dreadful levels of panel fit and the large gaps– that’s normal – but you need to keep any eye out for galvanic corrosion in the aluminium body panels, the door bottoms especially, but replacements are plentiful and generally cheap. Steel doors were fitted from 2004 and don’t appear especially rust-prone, but all need checking for signs of worn door and tailgate hinges. Excessive play is common and causes water leaks past the seals but it’s a cheap and easy DIY fix. A few dents and scrapes add to the character but the Landie is very easy to titivate with later parts and snorkels, chequer plating etc.
ENGINE
Various engines have been fitted over the years, with the earliest diesels proving robust and easy to repair, if entirely lacking in performance or refinement. Units badged 200Tdi and 300Tdi were used from 1990 to 1994, and are both sought after and reliable. The camshafts are belt driven with replacement needed every six years or 72,000 miles but they rarely break and won’t damage anything if they do. The five-cylinder 2.5-litre Td5 from 1998 added electronic complexity and needs proper diagnostic kit making it pricier to fix, so you’re best off with a Tdi if possible. Ford’s Duratorq (the ‘Puma’ engine) unit was fitted from 2007 and should be trouble-free if serviced properly. Both of the later units use cam chains rather than belts.
Even diesel units weren’t exactly thrifty, but there’s always the option of the 3.5-litre V8 that was available early on. You need to watch for head gasket problems and cam wear, though, and whichever engine you choose it’s worth checking for signs of oil and coolant leaks and evidence of neglect. Excessive smoke from turbocharged engines should ring alarm bells.
Ensure you know what engine has been fitted as swaps are common. Many were simply run into the ground, although replacement engines aren’t hard to find and can be an economical option if the rest is sound. When it comes to mechanical parts, be wary of the cheap and inferior pattern stuff that exists – Land Rover OEM items are normally best according to specialists.
TRANSMISSION
Oil leaks from the gearbox and four-wheel drive hardware aren’t uncommon, and it’s important to ensure it’s all operating as it should. Expect it to be noisy and clunky, but anything too obstructive or signs of badly worn synchromesh will need further investigation. Amateur tinkering with the differential locks isn’t advisable so get the system checked by a specialist if you’re unsure. Wear in driveshaft and prop shaft joints are common issues, although clutch replacement is fairly inexpensive.
STEERING & SUSPENSION
Steering and suspension can take a pounding so check carefully for wear and tear, and lack of maintenance. Tired bushes and joints are the most common problems, and it’s worth checking for rot around the coil spring mountings. The steering box and PAS hydraulics can leak but overhauling the running gear is straightforward. Braking-wise, early models got disc and drums with discs all-round and ABS later. Chunky alloy wheels are popular with the urban warriors and just need checking for damage and corrosion.
INTERIORS
Interiors are a basic affair with fairly dire build quality, but damaged trim and non-functioning electrics are easy to sort. Leaks from the heater aren’t unusual, and while you might want to avoid anything too battered at least replacement parts are in plentiful supply.
OUR VERDICT
Frankly, this is going to be a car that you either love or hate. The verdict, then, depends which side of the fence you’re on but there’s no doubting it has a very unique appeal. Make sure you can live with the driving experience, but we’ll probably never see the like again, and that makes it a pretty special thing.
LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 1 REVIEW
If you’re looking for charismatic adventure on a budget, the first-generation Discovery 200Tdi offers on-road comfort and near-unstoppable off-road practicality in one classic design.
As Land Rover’s answer to the onslaught of Japanese 4x4s invading Britain throughout the 1980s, the Discovery 1 is fast becoming the default choice for budget off-road enthusiasts in search of a bona fide classic.
Introduced at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 1989, the Discovery made use of existing Range Rover underpinnings. This included the suspension, axles and drivetrain while power choices were between the beloved 3.5-litre Rover V8 or a torquey 200Tdi diesel engine. Initially available only as a sporty three-door model, mainly to protect the Range Rover, the Discovery was marketed towards a younger, less-conservative driver with Jasper Conran-penned interior trim a A five-door version arrived for 1990, with new engines close to follow.
The design was critically acclaimed and improved Land Rover’s reputation with an assortment of prestigious awards, including US publication Four Wheeler Magazine’s ‘Four-Wheeler of the Year’. Sales boomed, with the five-door 200Tdi in particular proving to be extremely popular. With seven seats, the Discovery quickly became a fashion statement for young families and by the time the second-generation model arrived in 1998, the Discovery had established itself as a global class-leading SUV with a cult following.
VITAL STATISTICS
ENGINE 2495cc/4-cyl/OHV
POWER 111bhp@4000rpm
TORQUE 195.2lb ft@1800pm
MAXIMUM SPEED 92mph
0-60MPH 17.1 sec
FUEL CONSUMPTION 25-29mpg
TRANSMISSION 4WD, five-spd manual
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
IS THE ENGINE HEALTHY?
Depending on how the 200Tdi has been treated, engines can be on their last legs with very little warning. Any telltale signs of impending disaster can be found upon start-up. Look for white smoke or loss of coolant, and check all pipes are intact with appropriate pressure build up. If the pipes are hard then you could be walking into a world of woe. A loss of coolant could also mean that the head gasket is on the way out, a common occurrence at around 150,000 miles.
GEARBOX IN TOW
Check that gear-changes are free from sluggishness and that the correct gearbox oil is being used - for LT77 manuals before 1993, it should be auto transmission fluid. Listen out for whining which could be due to heavy towing. A key indicator that the transmission has been worked hard is crunching between second and third gear. If there is a slight banging or feeling of hesitation coming off the power, you could have severe mainshaft wear.
KEEPING YOU IN SUSPENSE
If the car has been used off-road or lugged frequent heavy loads, the suspension may have taken a bashing. Worn suspension bushes will result in clunking from the underside of the car when travelling over uneven ground, or if operating on full lock. Rear radius arm bushes can suffer badly, being a prime cause of skittish handling.
TAKING YOU ROUND THE BEND
If cornering is sloppy or the steering wheel wobbles, the suspension could be seriously worn, or the power steering box is on its way out. Worn components can mean vague communication through the steering wheel, with culprits ranging from front swivels to leaking power-steering mechanisms. A worn-out Discovery will generally handle poorly, but can be improved easily by replacing two or three minor components.
WATCH FOR BATTLE SCARS
Many a Discovery has been used for weekend fun or heavy work. Check for off-road damage on the underside, brake disc wear and injury to the exhaust system. Brake flexipipe can deteriorate if chafing against the chassis while paintwork and body structure points can be impaired from hefty use off the beaten track - this can start or aggravate rusting issues.
THE INSIDE MATTERS
In typical Land Rover fashion, leaks are very common. Sunroof rubbers can perish and allow Mother Nature in, while the top of the back door can weep. Interior wear can also be heavy depending on what the vehicle has been used for. Because of various rust and water traps, front inner wings can perish spectacularly, rotting from the A-post right through to the headlights. Rear floors and wheel arches also rust, while hinges and seatbelt mounts can rot badly. Again, if used off the beaten track or damaged, rust can be rampant throughout the entire vehicle.
OUR VERDICT
Cheaper than granddaddy Defender yet just as capable in the rough stuff, it’s arguably better looking than the contemporary Range Rover and far more DIY-friendly. There are plenty of specialists and sourcing parts isn’t tricky, and ownership means you can go off road with the scores of Land Rover clubs across the UK. Above all, it’s good fun and if you find one that’s been well looked after, not only have you got a prime investment on your hands, but also a tough, roomy and dependable British work horse.