BRISTOL 411 & 412 REVIEW

Looking for a Bristol 411 or 412? We understand completely. 

Apologies for heading straight into a cliché, but a Bristol really is the archetypal ‘gentleman’s express’.  A car for the discerning motorist if you will.  And the models we’re covering here fit into that category very nicely indeed.  Stylishly understated on the outside, what goes on beneath the long bonnet is much the same, with performance that is subtle but effective thanks to the use of low-revving V8s, engines that imbue a Bristol with an impressively smooth shove in the back when the throttle is planted, while filling the cabin with a lovely burble.  Hooked up to the slick-shifting Torqueflite transmission, it all makes for a relaxing drivetrain that ideally suits the long-distance cruising credentials.  There’s also powerful, twin-servo brakes and hydraulic power assistance for the steering to round off the package, both of which contribute to the effortless feel of these distinctive cars.  The ride and handling impress too, a Bristol able to soak up bumps with little commotion reaching the occupants and all the time remaining impressively planted and roll-free when the going gets twisty.  But there’s even better news as all of this can be enjoyed from one of the finest cabins around, and it’s perhaps here more than anywhere where a Bristol’s hand-crafted, luxury feel really shines through.  The amply-sized front chairs are comfortable, and there’s enough room for two in the back, but it’s the richness of the materials that really boost the feel-good factor.  With most of the interior surfaces covered in leather, and the fascia and door cappings making use of nished wood, it’s a lovely place in which to be cocooned, and there’s a robustness to everything you touch that speaks of long-lasting quality.   The large, well-shaped boot means a Bristol is a practical way to enjoy luxury travel too.  And choosing a 412 means all of these attributes come with the added bonus of being able to enjoy fresh-air motoring as well.  At the end of the day though, any of these cars will provide a unique style of classic car ownership, and that’s certainly something to relish.
 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine 6556cc, V8, OHV

Power 264bhp @ N/A

Torque 335lb/ft@N/A

Top Speed 140mph

0-60mph 7.4seconds

Economy 14-18mpg

Gearbox RWD/three-speed auto

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

The potential for serious – and therefore costly – corrosion is the most worrisome aspect of these cars, so a specialist inspection is vital.  The outer panels are aluminium, but fitted over a steel panel framework that can rot away unseen, and there is the obvious risk of galvanic corrosion between the two as well.  There are several layers of metal that can trap rot, and the extent of the problem isn’t always apparent until you start digging further, so you need to be absolutely certain of condition before parting with any money.

Depending on the model, some replacement panels are getting rare – if available at all - and the hand-built nature means used ones are unlikely to fit properly.  And having new ones made will be ferociously expensive.  Chrome trim strips and bumpers are pricey too, while sourcing items such as replacement light units for early cars can be difficult.

The steel chassis will also need careful checking for signs of rot, paying close attention to the legs and outriggers and the areas around the fuel tank and rear shock absorber mountings.  The rear uprights can corrode internally, so any sign of bulging in the metal is bad news.   And while underneath get a good look at the sill area as corrosion here could well have spread, with the potential for eye-watering repair costs.  Lastly, check inside the front wing compartments – the battery and brake servos are in the offside one, the spare wheel in the nearside – as failed seals will allow water ingress, leading to rotten floors.

ENGINE

There’s better news on the engine front, as the low-tech, Chrysler-sourced V8s – available in ious capacities and power outputs – are under-stressed, and pretty much bullet-proof with proper maintenance.  Regular oil and filter changes should see them exceed 200,000 miles with ease and it’s mainly a case of checking for general wear and tear.  Watch for leaks from the rear main oil seal, and ensure the cooling system is up to scratch with no signs of leaks or murky coolant.  Poor running can be caused by a carburetor in need of a rebuild – likely to be a Carter or Edelbrock item – but it’s a fairly straightforward fix.

RUNNING GEAR

The ‘Torqueflite’ automatic transmission is long-lasting too although it’s worth checking for oil dripping from the bell-housing which signifies tired torque converter seals.  Parts for the ‘box and for the engines are generally plentiful and not especially expensive, and there’s a good supply from the US.  Worn prop shaft joints will cause a vibration but any problems will be obvious on the road, as will any whines from the Salisbury rear axle.

Bristols are on the heavy side so it’s worth checking the condition of the brakes - although an overhaul is straightforward - while twin servos are fitted and brake fluid can leak into them, so check the level in the reservoir.  Sagging springs and worn bushes are likely to be the extent of any suspension problems although it’s worth examining the mountings for corrosion, and aside from general wear the hydraulically-assisted steering should be trouble-free.

INTERIOR

The interior is a real high point and the richness of the materials means the cost of complete renovation can easily exceed five figures.  Check the condition of leather and wood veneers carefully.  Completeness is also essential as some trim parts are scarce, and pay close attention to the electrics.  Old wiring can be a problem and not all circuits on the 411 were fused so make sure everything works as it should.  And if the wing compartment seals fail it can allow moisture to play havoc with the fusebox.  The convertible/targa roof arrangement of the 412 wasn’t as water-tight as it could have been so check for signs of water ingress and make sure the folding section and lift-out panel are undamaged.  The rollover hoop that supports the roof can also corrode and repairs are far from easy.

VERDICT

British craftsmanship and torquey V8 engines are an appealing combination but care is needed.  Complete restoration could swallow tens of thousands of pounds which is somewhat sobering, so an expert inspection is vital.  Buy well though and you’ll own a unique slice of luxury motoring, and once experienced the charm of a Bristol is very hard to resist.

Good 411 models are sought after and as the values here demonstrate, entry to this particular club isn’t cheap.  But the 412 and 603 are a little more affordable, with the best topping-out at around £40,000 and £30,000 respectively.  And both of these are underrated at present too, so prices probably have a way to climb yet.  Bristol values are rising generally so a good example should prove an investment, but think very hard before taking on a restoration project.

BRISTOL 401 REVIEW

''Undoubtedly one of the great cars of our time'' wrote The Autocar in 1949, the year the new Bristol 401 coupe joined the 400. The prime appeal of the more popular 401 of course was, and still is, its flowing lines, a windcheating and distinctive new bodywork, created by Touring of Milan on their Superleggera principles, with lightweight construction of aluminium panelling over tubular steel framing, then welded to a chassis. With further wind-tunnel bodywork refinement by the Bristol Aeroplane Company at Filton, the combination of lightweight construction of just 2,700lbs and stunning aerodynamically efficient lines meant that the robust six-cylinder power unit, derived from the famous 328 BMW, had better top-end acceleration up to 100mph, making it one of the best performing cars of the period, with close-ratio gearbox and triple carburettors. Hand built at the rate of about 150 cars a year, using high quality aircraft materials, only items like tyres, wheels and carburettors were bought in. An exclusive car, priced at £3212.13s.4d, this was a truly expensive 'business express'. With effortless cruising, comfort for four and cavernous boot, features such as flush mounted push-button door locks and body-hugging bumpers are modern even by today's standards, the innovative one-piece bonnet hingeing either to the left or to the right, to choice.

BRISTOL 406 REVIEW

As the last of the six-cylinder Bristols before the advent of the mighty V8 cars, the rare and handsome 406 is a significant model that’s well worth seeking out...

It may lack the swoopy, aero-inspired lines of the earlier 401 and 402, but the 406 pushed Bristol into rarefied top level luxury car territory. It was bigger, heavier and more powerful than any previous Bristol, and – at close to £4500 – easily the most expensive. It wasn’t, however, all that fast, and struggled to break the all-important 100mph barrier.

It marked a sea-change in styling, too, with a new front sporting an open air inlet covered by a recessed mesh grille. But how does it stack up as a classic proposition today?

VITAL STATISTICS

BRISTOL 406

Engine                                    2216cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  105bhp@4700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 129lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                107mph

0-60mph                                  14sec

Consumption                            23mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual + O/D

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Being largely handmade, no two 406s are ever identical, but the key rot-spots remain broadly the same. The most common areas to require attention on unrestored cars are around the wheelarches. An electrolytic reaction can occur where the bodywork’s aluminium and steel sections meet around the arches, causing inevitable corrosion that must be cut out and replaced.

It’s a similar story with the battery and spare wheel floors, and while replacement is straightforward enough, being part of a coachbuilt car means it doesn’t come cheaply.

ENGINE

The 406’s 2.2-litre Type 110 engine – first seen on the export-only 406E – is a broadly strong and unstressed unit that should manage 100,000 miles before requiring a re-build. It’s worth paying more for a lower-mileage or recently re-built engine, however, as you’re looking at a bill for at least £10,000 to re-build a worn engine.

Contemporary publicity releases may have promised 100mph-plus speeds, but the reality was the car actually fell short of ‘the ton’ by a good two or three mph, despite having various innovations such as re-profiled pistons and a timing chain tensioner. Peak torque was developed at lower revs than previously, and the torque curve itself was much flatter, but early cars earned an unfortunate nickname, ‘tea kettle’, due to their propensity to overheating.

Sporting a steel block, the engine’s main weakness concerns its aluminium cylinder head – which is prone to corrosion – particularly around the water jackets and holes, and is known to warp. This latter issue has a knock-on effect on the head gasket – if the head is skimmed once too often following warping, the gasket can no longer maintain a tight seal between the block and the head. Thicker cylinder head gaskets are still available from Bristol, although repeated subsequent skimming will eventually lead to a new cylinder head being required.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed overdrive gearbox is pretty tough on the whole, although it’s not unheard of for the ball races to whine at tickover. If simply depressing the clutch makes the noise disappear, than replacements will be required.

The 406’s suspension, meanwhile, is unusual in that rather than relying on grease nipples, it uses a ‘one-shot’ lubrication system. This is operated via a plunger inside the car, which distributes oil to the front kingpins and rack-and-pinion steering. 

Bristol recommends that the driver operates this system every 100 miles or so (and even more regularly in wet or muddy conditions), and failure to adhere to this regime can instigate blocked channels, or a non-return valve that jams in the open position. Ignoring this problem will obviously have consequences for the front suspension and steering, so it’s wise to check it works properly and that there’s no play in the kingpin and bushes.

INTERIOR

The 406’s interior was extremely luxurious when new, with sumptuous leather seats and high-quality bound Wilton carpets. Most of these items can be repaired in sections by experienced upholsterers, which is good news since a full refurbishment would involve non-original materials (exchange seats are not available) and a lot of money.

Wood features heavily in the 406’s cabin, and the section beneath the windscreen is exposed near-constantly to the sun, which eventually damages it.

Fascia controls and gauges are broadly reliable and long-lasting, but the oil/water gauges in particular can require work on higher mileage cars. Reassuringly, exchange units are still available from the factory, although they’re hardly cheap.

OUR VERDICT

Think Bristol, and many people immediately think either of 1950s aero-styled pioneers, or large, squared-off V8 saloons from the 1970s and 1980s. The 406 was very much a transition car and while it wasn’t particularly quick, it’s a rare, elegant, beautifully engineered and very luxurious tourer. They’re good value too, and enjoy an enthusiastic owner’s club following.