AUSTIN TEN-FOUR REVIEW

Austin’s early post-war cars once seemed to be everywhere, but you’ll have to look long and hard if you want one now...

The 1945-1947 Austin Ten-Four was a revived pre-war design that lasted only until Longbridge had the replacement A40 Somerset ready. Introduced in 1939, its semi-integral construction was a step forward, but its side-valve engine dated back to 1932. The attractive saloon body was designed by Dick Burzi and during the war, the armed services took saloon, van and pick-up ("Tilly", or utility) models. The Ten-Four was a strong seller, too: 55,521 were built.

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Ten-FOUR

Engine                                    1125cc/4-cyl/side-valve

Power (bhp@rpm)                  32bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 Not quoted

Top speed                                62mph

0-60mph                                  40 sec+ 

Consumption                           35mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

In most respects, this will be your primary concern on one of these Austins. Parts are simply not available off the shelf, and you’ll be very lucky to find a scrapper that has any useable body parts on it. Most cars that have got to the scrap stage are likely to be in a state of near-collapse.

Watch out for problems with the sliding sunroof. It can leak, and owners on a budget tend to seal the roof up without attempting a proper repair. Collapse most often results from rot in the body pillars, which will give way eventually under the weight of the doors – especially if a car has been in long-term storage with the doors left open. 

Look for rot around the edges of all panels, including the boot, doors, bonnet and wings. Some body sections are shared with the 8hp, 12hp and 16hp models, but remember that the larger-capacity cars also have some larger body dimensions. 

ENGINE

The side-valve engine is as simple as they come, and shares the basics of its design with pre-war Austin Tens. Engine spares are therefore less of a problem than spares for other areas of the car. Even so, you’d be wise to develop strong links with specialist suppliers and fellow owners, and to keep a close and regular eye on what’s available on the web. Items do turn up out of nowhere, but then it’s a case of first come, first served. Bear in mind that the related wartime "Tilly" engine was an 11hp unit with a larger bore, so don’t be misled into buying the wrong parts for your engine!

RUNNING GEAR

 The mechanical components are tough and simple. The four-speed gearbox has no synchromesh on bottom gear and doesn’t like to be rushed, and the brakes are Girling mechanical items which gave adequate stopping power for the mid-1940s. Springs are semi-elliptics all round.

The chassis sidemembers are welded to that floorpan to create a platform-like structure which is torsionally quite stiff. But do check for problems in the floorpan. Once it’s been weakened by rust, the ‘chassis’ can start to twist and if the body pillars have been weakened, then the whole body structure is in danger of collapse.

INTERIOR

The Ten-Four’s interior reflected Britain’s love of understatement at the time. There’s not a lot to the dashboard, but everything is well-made and placed just so. The seats were upholstered in leather (yes, even at this budget level), so bear this in mind when assessing a car with a tatty interior, since they will be expensive to re-cover. 

If there are problems with the instruments or switches, specialists can usually help, but don’t expect to find any seats or trim panels for sale. These are items that you’ll have to get made specially. If you’re not sure what interior items should look like, look at some good original-condition cars, take plenty of photographs, and
then show your trimmer what you’re looking for.

OUR VERDICT

You’ll buy an Austin Ten-Four of this vintage mainly for nostalgic reasons. The cars didn’t represent any great leap forward in engineering or styling terms, and were always intended as Austin’s bread-and-butter product. However, they have always been rather attractive cars that recall a lost age of motoring, and they will always attract interest at shows and events. These cars are enjoyable, family-friendly classics, but you’ll need to accept that hunting for spare parts will likely be a permanent occupation, so make sure you have somewhere in your garage or loft to keep them all!

AUSTIN MAESTRO REVIEW

Want an interesting daily? We make the case for a Maestro...

Launched in 1983, the Austin Maestro replaced the Allegro and the Maxi in one fell swoop. A wide variety of options were available, from thrifty diesels to the plush Vanden Plas. A choice of two hatchbacks (metal and plastic bumper) in varying trim levels meant that there was a Maestro for everyone, and their simplicity makes them excellent classics for daily use. The van makes an interesting classic commercial, too. 

VITAL STATISTICS

MAESTRO 1300

Engine                                    1275cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  68bhp@5800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 75lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                95mph

0-60mph                                  12.8sec 

Consumption                            36.3mpg

Gearbox                                    4/5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

The primary concern of any would-be Maestro owner is bodywork, so buy the best body you can. Particular areas of concern are the wheelarches and sills – check the joint between the sill and the rear arch as major corrosion here will not be an easy fix. A-pillars rot at the roof join, and any rust around the windscreen should be closely watched and treated as soon as possible; treating it at an advanced stage means removing the bonded screen. Fuel filler pockets can rot out, but GRP and carbon fibre replacements are available from the MG ‘M’ Group. Watch the front valances on metal-bumper cars and vans as they attract stone chips and the inevitable blobs of rust. Both the front and rear valances on plastic bumper cars can rust – they weren’t painted at the factory and the first sign for many owners is the loss of the boot floor! Less serious is tailgate corrosion – while they go underneath the rear window and along the bottom edge, the tailgate can be replaced easily should a spare be found. Metal bumpers in good condition are scarce, so try and find a car with good ones
and ensure you keep the back face clean and rustproofed. The majority of cars will have minor blistering on the door bottoms – keep a close eye on this, but it isn’t a serious issue. Be aware that wings for the metal and plastic bumper models are different, as are the valances and other panels. 

ENGINE

There were three engine options in varying states of tune. The 1.3 A-series is a common fitment to cars and vans, and is well catered for by Mini specialists. The 1.6 R-series is a development of the E-series as found in the Maxi and Allegro – no nasties here, and there’s no need to worry about cam belt changes as it has a chain. The R-series was refined into the S-series in 1984, and the cam chain was replaced by a belt, along with more extensive reworking. Don’t allow emulsification in the oil filler pipe on S-series cars to alarm you – it’s not a sign of head gasket failure but a design flaw in the routing of the filler pipe. Diesels used a development of the O-series known as the MDi or Perkins Prima, which has many fans due to its economy and torque characteristics. 

RUNNING GEAR

Most Maestros have a VW gearbox which can be notchy in use, and the linkages are prone to popping off the box when worn. It’s a simple fix, though, and can be remedied in seconds; some owners cable-tie the linkages to prevent re-occurrences. Diesels (and MGs) use the Honda-designed PG1 gearbox from the Montego. Linkages are also a weak point and a vague gear change indicates worn PG1 linkages. Front wheel bearings wear quickly and are not the simplest of fixes – also take care to examine the steering components carefully on cars with PAS fitted.   

INTERIOR

As befits a small family car of the 1980s there were myriad specifications, trim materials and colours. While it is too tempting to choose the model with the brownest interior, this trim is prone to disintegration and many cars have had trim panels replaced with grey items due to the scarcity of good brown parts. Grey, blue and cream trim items do not have this issue, with grey being the easiest to source replacement parts. Model specific items such as seats can be hard to find, so try to find as good an interior as you can. ‘L’ spec cars with Moonstripe Tweed seats are prone to water staining, but all materials used for Maestros are hard wearing and comfortable. The late Vanden Plas models featured walnut and leather – a stark contrast to early Base models which lacked even a glovebox, or the commodious vans with their vinyl seats! Early dashboards can rattle, whereas the later one-piece dash from the Montego is prone to cracking and lifting above the instrument binnacle. Toys such as central locking and electric windows can prove erratic, but they are simple to fix.

OUR VERDICT

Maestros are excellent family cars and are well up to daily use. They’re modern enough to be low maintenance, yet simple enough to be fixed on a driveway. With slim pillars for good visibility, space to fit a tumble drier in the back, short overhangs and room for four six-footers, they’re a sensible classic that’s cheap to buy and run. Vans have all the attributes of a hatch but with a much bigger load bay.

AUSTIN METRO REVIEW

An interesting and likeable British supermini...

The Austin Mini Metro was launched in 1980 amid much patriotic fanfare, and in its 17-year production run – including later Metro and Rover 100 models – over two million cars emerged from Longbridge. With the proven A-Series engine and trim levels ranging from 1.0 Standard (later ‘City’) to 1.3 HLS, the Metro was a solid competitor to the likes of the Mark 1 Fiesta and Renault 5. Plush ‘Vanden Plas’ trim arrived in 1982 with optional leather upholstery and wood trim, the same year also seeing the launch of sporting MG variants. The economy-oriented HLE model never met the 80mpg claims, and typical BL quality issues affected early cars, but improvements meant the Metro evolved into a capable car.

While not as groundbreaking as the original Mini, the Metro was spacious and economical. It was quite advanced for its time, too (options included Dunlop’s innovative Denovo run-flat tyres). And with decent performance, a smooth ride, and nippy handling, it can still entertain today.

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Mini Metro 1.0, 1981

Engine                                    998cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  44bhp@5250rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 52lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                87mph

0-60mph                                  18.9sec

Consumption                            42mpg

Gearbox                                    4-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Patchy BL build quality meant that most cars succumbed to rust, and there are some specific places to investigate. The bottom of the doors, the sills, and the front valance below the bumper were common problem areas. A good look underneath is advisable, too, as the floorpan in the front footwells was susceptible to rotting out, as were the mounting points for the rear subframe. However, remaining examples are likely to have been repaired, and replacement panels are easily available if further work is necessary. Faded paintwork and damaged exterior trim are other things to look for.

ENGINE

The venerable A-series engine means there is little to worry about here. A complete re-build or replacement is within the scope of the DIY mechanic, and there are a huge number of Mini specialists to call upon for parts or advice. There are some well-known weak points to watch out for, including oil leaks and worn timing chains. Blown head gaskets, failed water pumps, and leaking core plugs aren’t uncommon, but regular maintenance should prevent many of these problems occurring. However, the ease with which these engines can be maintained is one of the plus points of Metro ownership. Everything is easily accessible and service items are cheap so there is little excuse for a previous owner not to have kept things in tip-top condition. 

RUNNING GEAR

Simple four-speed transmissions make for an easy ownership proposition. Manual ‘boxes can suffer from selection problems due to a faulty reverse-gear bush, while worn synchromesh may affect hard-used cars – a reconditioned unit is a cost‑effective cure. The popular automatics are largely trouble-free. Like the Mini, the transmission was mounted in the sump and shared the engine’s oil supply, so regular oil and filter changes will help to prolong gearbox life. Steering and braking systems were conventional and only regular maintenance is needed. The suspension is a little more tricky, employing the clever ‘Hydragas’ system at each corner. While this gave an excellent ride, repairs are difficult as replacement units aren’t available new. Specialist equipment is required to recharge the units, and while this may fix a car that appears to sag, be wary if problems continue. Corroded suspension pipework is common, but replacement pipes are easy to fit.

INTERIOR

Simple four-speed transmissions make for an easy ownership proposition. Manual ‘boxes can suffer from selection problems due to a faulty reverse-gear bush, while worn synchromesh may affect hard-used cars – a reconditioned unit is a cost‑effective cure. The popular automatics are largely trouble-free. Like the Mini, the transmission was mounted in the sump and shared the engine’s oil supply, so regular oil and filter changes will help to prolong gearbox life. Steering and braking systems were conventional and only regular maintenance is needed. The suspension is a little more tricky, employing the clever ‘Hydragas’ system at each corner. While this gave an excellent ride, repairs are difficult as replacement units aren’t available new. Specialist equipment is required to recharge the units, and while this may fix a car that appears to sag, be wary if problems continue. Corroded suspension pipework is common, but replacement pipes are easy to fit.

OUR VERDICT

Despite coming from a British Leyland that was not at its best, the Metro was actually a fine small car. It outperformed its competitors with a superb combination of comfort, versatility, and excellent handling and roadholding. Suspension issues aside, simple mechanicals make the Metro an attractive proposition for the classic enthusiast while a wide network of parts suppliers and specialists guarantee low running costs too. Find a nice, rust-free example and you’ll certainly enjoy what this British small car has to offer.