Austin

AUSTIN MINI COOPER REVIEW

The Austin Mini Cooper is, without doubt, the car that defined the 1960s'. We don't have to tell you why you want one, but if you need to persuade your partner CCFS are here to help...

They say you should never meet your heroes, and certainly the Austin Mini Cooper – or any Mini, for that matter – tends to make a less-than perfect first impression to anyone unfamiliar with the hugely popular marque.

Design and engineering genius, Alec Issigonis, may have succeeded in coming up with a car that could seat four adults despite measuring just over 10ft, stem to stern, but the result is a driving position that, to put it politely, is rather bus-like.

That said, there’s an undoubted charm to the Cooper’s trademark spartan cabin. The glasshouse is pleasingly deep and the curved dashboard, complete with its trio of clear dials, adds to the feeling of spaciousness up front. The seats are genuinely comfortable, too, and the simple, rubber-gaited gear lever falls naturally to your hand.
Twist the key in the dinky little ignition slot beneath the enormous speedometer, and the 55bhp 998cc engine coughs briskly into life.

An all-synchromesh gearbox was only introduced in September 1968, so a rudimentary grasp of the art of double-declutching is required to avoid crunched changes into first on earlier cars, but such is the revvy nature of the 55bhp engine that this is hardly a chore.

The transmission whine in first gear is unmistakable, and the shifter snicks smoothly from gear to gear.

You can’t help but grin at the purposeful snuffles from the twin SU carbs and the jaunty manner in which the Hydrolastic suspension (which replaced the earlier cars’ all-independent rubber cones in late 1964) bounces over uneven road surfaces. It feels mighty perky, too indeed, it can hit 60mph from rest in less than 17 seconds and maxes out at a (presumably rather noisy) 90mph.

Outright performance isn’t what the Cooper is all about though people adore these cars for their other-wordly handling. Coopers have been compared, rather unimaginatively, to go-karts ad nauseum, but there really is no better epithet. Throw it into a corner, and there’s precious little body roll, allied to a touch of early-warning understeer, but it always feels very much like it was born to drift.
It changes direction like a fly, the steering and suspension not so much communicating with you, as bellowing through a bullhorn. You might not be terribly comfy behind the wheel, but by God, you’re having fun.
For once, here is a car whose oft-repeated reputation certainly doesn’t flatter to deceive.

History
The Mini was never all that powerful (exactly how Issigonis wanted to keep it), so it fell to sheer serendipity for the giant-killing Montewinner to emerge from the shadows.
John Cooper was already a master of Grand Prix and Formula Junior racing, and following a long drive of a standard car, he approached BMC’s Managing Director, George Harriman, with a do-or-die deal sanction the build run of 1000 Cooper-modified cars (to homologate them for entry into Group 2 racing), and he’d do the hard work of modifying the cars in return for a small royalty and the privilege of having his name on each completed car.

The rest, as they say, is history. A 997cc engine was employed for the ‘new’ car, complete with twin semi-downdraught 1.25in SU carburetors, a re-profiled camshaft and a higher compression ratio.
The results were startling power was up from the standard car’s 34bhp to a whopping 55bhp, and with stopping power to match, all wrapped up in a car whose handling was already legendary, a true world icon was born, almost overnight.
Modifications were soon announced, however the 997cc engine was replaced by a slightly torquier 998cc mill in 1964, and shortly thereafter the original rubber cone suspension was binned in favour of the now-legendary Hydrolastic system. Around this time, too, radial tyres were made standard in place of the old crossplies.
The story didn’t end there, however. A more potent Cooper ‘S’ was introduced in the same year as the ‘standard’ Cooper, sporting a 1071cc engine that upped power to a dizzying 70bhp and brought with it bigger-still servoassisted disc brakes and a top speed of 95mph; zero to 60mph was achieved in 13 seconds.
The prize for the greatest number of Cooper S models built, however, goes to the car that would take Cooper production all the way through to 1971. Capacity was boosted to 1275cc, power spiked at 76bhp. The results spoke for themselves indeed, had it not been for an outrageously blatant show of partisanship on the part of the French judges during the 1966 event, the Cooper would have blitzed the Monte Carlo rally throughout the 1960s. Pat Moss secured the ladies award in the 1962 event, paving the way for outright wins for Paddy Hopkirk (1964), Timo Mäkinen (1965) and Rauno Aaltonen (1967).

Mini-Cooper Trivia

  • The 1963-1969 Austin Mini-Cooper was the greatest seller, shifting over 76,000 examples. The original model sold around 25,000 cars in three years, with the short-lived 1963-1964 Cooper S finding just over 4000 owners. The 1964-1965 970cc Cooper S is the rarest, with fewer than 1000 units sold. The later Cooper S shifted over 40,400 units.
  • The Cooper S engine is most readily identified by an extra stud and bolt at each end of the cylinder head.
  • If your Cooper sports a curious-looking box beneath the centre of the dashboard, then it has a super-rare early recirculating type heater.
  • The trademark little tail-light units (left) were finally replaced by much larger duo-tone lights with the introduction of the MkII Cooper, although the bumper overriders were retained.
  • The Cooper was a big seller overseas, too international models included the Italian Innocenti and Spanish Authi, although complete knock-down kits were exported as far afield as Chile, Rhodesia, South Africa and Australia.
     

AUSTIN PRINCESS REVIEW

This classic Austin Princess 'wedge' hasn’t had the best image, but should you ignore the naysayers and buy one?

 

There are plenty of people that will turn their nose up when the Austin Princess is mentioned, and they might even resort to jokes about 1970s sitcom characters, but that would be to do this underrated slice of wedgery a disservice.  In fact, give one a try and you’ll soon discover why they have such a dedicated following, not least because of the spacious and airy cabin that makes it such a useful daily driver.  Passengers are exceptionally well catered for with plenty of head and elbow room, and the seats are comfortable too, so long-distance journeys are no bother.  And if it wasn’t for the fact that Austin chose to equip the sharply-styled model with a bootlid with a rather shallow opening, rather than a hatchback – an issue corrected with the follow-up Ambassador – the Princess would have scored maximum points for practicality as well.  As it is, if you opt for one with the wood-trimmed interior there’s an extra helping of luxury that certainly makes it feel a cut above contemporary offerings when it comes to interior ambience. 

But what’s it like on the road?  Well, pretty good actually especially when fitted with the smooth, six-cylinder E-Series engine  - combined with the 3-speed automatic transmission it makes for particularly relaxing progress, although it’s not great for economy where you’ll struggle to achieve mid-20s mpg.  The four-cylinder units are better in this respect, and are still quite sprightly with the 95bhp, 2.0-litre model capable of 60mph in a respectable 13 seconds or so.  The only downside is the manual transmission which was never especially slick and can suffer from an obstructive first gear making progress in traffic a bit of a pain. They all stop well though, thanks to powerful four-piston brake calipers on the front and only the non-assisted steering can let the down side, proving overly heavy when parking.  Power steering is definitely worth having.  But what all Princess models offer is a great ride thanks to the use of Hydragas suspension, and while sharp ruts can intrude, there’s little body roll to contend with. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Princess 2000

Engine           1994cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power            95bhp@4900rpm

Torque          113lb ft@3400

Top speed    101mph

0-60mph        13.1secs

Economy      30mpg

Gearbox        4-speed manual 

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

It’ll come as no surprise that corrosion can attack the Princess with some enthusiasm, and there are various spots to examine.  Start by examining the valance behind the front number plate, and the bottom of the wings, and ensure the A-pillars are free of bubbling.  The rear of the sills where they meet the wheel-arches also need checking along with the door bottoms – the rear doors seem worse affected for some reason – and check the extremities of the boot lid, particularly the reverse of the lower edge.  Bear in mind that all panels are rare, especially doors, boot lids, and front wings which almost impossible to find, so grab good ones while you can.

The floorpan doesn’t seem to suffer from serious rust but is worth checking just in case, particularly around the front foot-wells as a leaking screen can soak the carpets.  Indeed, the windscreen is another rare part along with the rubbers so check the condition of the glass carefully.  A vinyl roof could be hiding rot so watch for tell-tale bubbling beneath, and check the condition of exterior trim and fittings as both these and chromework are getting increasingly hard to source. 

ENGINE

Depending on age and model the Princess was fitted ‘B’, ‘E’, or O-Series engines and there’s a decent parts supply.  A re-build is a DIY task too, but it pays to watch for the usual signs of neglect including excessive oil leakage from perished gaskets, exhaust smoke, and signs of overheating.  Rattling valvegear is easy to sort but remember that 0-Series units require regular cambelt replacement, so check when this was last done.  Poor running will likely be ignition or fuel systems past their best, but they aren’t costly or difficult to overhaul.  Most will run on unleaded without problem too, but it’s an added bonus if the cylinder head has already been converted.

GEARBOX

It’s common to find a manual gearbox suffering from an obstructive first gear, and if it’s particularly troublesome it could be the clutch master or slave cylinder on its way out, and again parts can be scarce.  A slight whine from the ‘box is normal too but it shouldn’t be excessive.  The 3-speed automatic was a Borg Warner 35 unit, and a popular choice instead of the notchy manual, and while never silky smooth it pays to check that gear changes aren’t too lumpy, and that the fluid doesn’t look like tar.

BRAKES

The brakes should be trouble-free, although it’s worth checking the pipework for corrosion.  Leaking rear wheel cylinders are cheap and easy to replace, and new front calipers are available or they can be overhauled with a repair kit.  The manual steering shouldn’t give much bother, although it was heavy, and seizing balljoints will make this worse.  Many preferred the power-assisted option but it’s prone to leaks so check around the pipe unions, pump, and the steering rack itself.  Alloy wheels were fitted to some variants, and you’ll struggle to find replacements – budget around £70 per wheel for refurbishment if they’re not too far gone.

SUSPENSION

The Hydragas suspension system isn’t fundamentally troublesome but the pipework will need checking and it’s very hard to source replacement displacer units.  Check the ride height carefully, and while a re-gas may be all that’s required don’t assume that’s the case whatever the vendor might say.  It’ll be pointless if the displacer diaphragm has failed, but the clubs can usually advise on the best way to find a replacement.

INTERIOR

Once again it’s the rarity of parts that affects the cabin, with door panels and seats especially scarce.  Check condition carefully then, looking for damaged trim and sagging seat bases and headlining.  Watch for cracks in the dashboard plastics or wood veneer, and lift the front carpets if possible as perished screen rubbers leads to water ingress.  Lastly, age may have taken its toll on wiring and connectors so ensure all the electrics function correctly. 

OUR VERDICT

With low prices and distinctive styling the Princess is an attractive proposition, while the spacious and comfortable cabin is a further plus.  But corrosion and the scarcity of many parts means a modicum of caution is needed.  We’d certainly be tempted by this useable British classic, and buying one now means you’ll get to enjoy the 40thbirthday celebrations.

AUSTIN MONTEGO REVIEW

Once they were everywhere, today they are a rare breed. Looking for an Austin Montego? You should be, here's why. 



So, what constitutes a desirable classic? Jag E-type? Of course. Big Healey? No question. Austin Montego? Hmm; that one's not quite so clear-cut. You'll find a few classic car fans with this boxy saloon or estate on their shortlist of must-have models, but look beyond the prejudice and you'll find there's plenty to appeal.

Once the staple diet of reps everywhere, our roads teemed wth Montegos until relatively recently. Then suddenly they all disappeared, but there are some superb examples out there just waiting to be snapped up - and you won't need deep pockets to secure one.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Despite its relative youth, the Montego can rot badly, with some repairs potentially involved and costly. Few Montegos are rust-free, but some are better than others. Post -1989 cars tend to have better rust protection, but for some, these don't have the appeal of the earlier cars.

Start by checking for rust in the seams; once there it'll spread, and eliminating it altogether can be a thankless task. The sills, wheelarches and door bottoms are the areas most commonly afflicted, along with the front and rear screen surrounds and the pillars themselves. Trying to cure this with mastic won't work; removing the bonded-in screen and repairing it properly is the only long-term solution. It's unlikely that a windscreen can be removed without breaking it, so budget for a replacement in addition. The bumpers are plastic front and rear, so corrosion isn't an issue - but damage is. They go brittle with age so crack easily, and even a relatively light tap can shatter the plastic, with repairs likely to be tricky if not impossible. Often the only answer is to find a decent used bumper, which will probably have to be painted to match. The problem is, decent used bumpers are scarce.

ENGINES

There were four engine families. Entry-level cars got a 1275cc A-Series unit; few survive. Next up was the overhead-cam 1.6-litre S-Series engine, then a 2.0-litre OHC powerplant derived from the O-Series lump seen in the Marina, Ital and Princess. The latter engine came in three forms: carburetted with 103 horses, fuel-injected with 115bhp or there was a turbocharged and carburettored 150bhp version, in the Montego Turbo.

For those putting economy before power, there was a Perkins Prima 2.0-litre turbodiesel; it's a rough old unit but economy can be spectacular.

There's an automatic choke on the earlier 1.3, 1.6 and 2.0 carb engines. Getting it to work properly can be a thankless task which is why manual conversions are popular; later cars got a manual system. Many assume the choke is at fault when it's not; converting masks other issues such as split rubber vacuum hose connections, perished vacuum switch diaphragms, faulty overrrun fuel cut-off switches (best left disconnected after ensuring the switch is open) and swelled fast idle stepper motor rings which get attacked by unleaded fuel. Unleaded-resistant Viton rings are available cheaply from the owners' club.

The A-Series engine tends to keep going until 100,000 miles have been notched up. It'll leak oil on the waythere and it might get smoky after 80,000 miles, but it'll keep working. DIY rebuilds are easy and parts availability is good; expect to pay around £600 for the bits.

The 1.6 and 2.0-litre engines tend to last longer as they don;t have to work as hard and they're more modern. Expect plenty of tappet noise though, even when correctly adjusted. Valve clearances are adjusted with shims and a special tool is needed for the job, which is why many of these engines aren't running as sweetly as they might. Expect oil leaks, especially where the O-Series unit is concerned. This can weep oil from the head gasket near cylinder number four and the distributor cap. Other leaks from the lower part of the engine and transmission are also common, but if things are really bad the crankshaft oil seal has probably failed. REplacing this is involved and costly (typically £350 for the rear seal as the gearbox has to be removed), so chck this area carefully. The 1.6 often leaks oil from the cam carrier gasket while both engines suffer from mayonnaise in the oil filler tubes, through condensation rather than head gasket failure.

The 1.6 and 2.0-litre engines have a cambelt that should be replaced every four years or 48,000 miles. The 1.6-litre engine isn't an interference fit, but the 2.0-litre unit is. The Perkins Diesel engine is long lasting and reliable, although if the cooling system is neglected, corrosion can build up and lead to head gasket failure.

TRANSMISSIONS
 
Some Montegos came with a four-speed manual gearbox while others got an extra ratio. There was also a three-speed VW-built auto option with the 1.6 engine; the 2.0-litre units got a ZF-sourced four-speed auto. Apart from Montegos with a 2.0-litre engine, manual boxes were VW-sourced - 2.0 cars got a Honda-built box. However, just to confuse things, from the October 1988 facelift, all Montegos got a Honda-built five-speed box.

The VW transmissions are surprisingly notchy, so don't assume there's a problem if gear selection is an issue - the Honda units are far nicer to use. However, VW lnkages can go out of adjustment or pop off (they're frequently cable-tied in place), so if things are really bad it may be that a tweak is needed.

STEERING & SUSPENSION
Many Montegos came without power steering, but it's well worth having. From October 1988 it became standard on the SL and above. The system is generally reliable, although the drive belts can be tricky to tension properly, especially on the 2.0-litre models. Power goes to the front wheels, so all Montegos feature CV joints, which can be a weak spot. The same goes for the front wheelbearings, which can wear quickly so listen for chattering as the car is cornered. The anti-toll bar bushes are another weak spot. They tend to fail quickly, but redesigned items fitted from October 1988 are stronger and most earlier cars will have had fresh bushes by now - but both types are now very scarce. 

WHEELS & BRAKES
Some Montegos came with steel wheels while others had alloys. Most survivors have the latter and while you'll need to check for the usual kerbing and corrosion, it's the metric-sized tyres that are likely to cause the biggest headaches as they're virtually unobtainable and metric wheels will accept only metric tyres. 

Not all wheels feature metric tyres though; some left the factory with imperial sizes while many cars have been converted. Metrics were originally fitted to the 1.6L and up (steel and alloy) from launch until the 1987 facelift.

Most replacements utilise the later 15" cross-spoke MG spec alloys as also fitted to Maestros.

TRIM & ELECTRICS
Motego cabins are comfy and the materials used tend to be reasonably hard-wearing. However, the plastic moulded dashboards can crack and bow if left in the sun while headlinings can sag and tear. In the case of the former you'll have to find a decent used fascia (easier said than done) while headlining woes can only be fixed effectively with a costly retrim. The Vanden Plas and GSi came with durable leather trim which is easy enough to convert.

Despite the relative simplicity of the Montego's electrical system, there's plenty of scope for problems as connections can fail and the wiring can go brittle. The most common issues centre on the central locking and heater systems, along with powered windows. The control modules for the latter can fail; replaceent is quick and the parts are cheap - if you can find them. If buying a car with a digital dash, check the instrumentation works properly. It can fail and fniding replacement parts new or used is all but impossible. 

 

OUR VERDICT

The Montego may have lived in the shadow of the Cortina/Sierra and Cavalier, but at least part of the reason was its heritage; anything to come from the Austin-Rover stable got a bashing. However, the Montego was always one of the most highly equipped cars in its class and one of the most comfortable too. It also handled pretty well, although the Turbo's torque steer was legendary.

Mechanical simplicity ensures maintenance is straightforward and there are ample editions to choose from, whether you want mild or wild. It's the mid-range iants that seem to be the most readily available, at least in terms of engines, while it's the posher trims (such as the Mayfair and Vanden Plas) that have survived in the biggest numbers.

The Montego's trump card though is its practicality; if you're looking for a load lugger the estate is brilliant - there's even a seven-seater.

As with many cars at this end of the food chain, reviving a tired Montego will cost more than it's worth, which is why the survival rate is so low.

However, while the number of surviving Montegos has dwindled dramatically since the model went out of production, many of those left are low-mileage cherished cars, so finding a minter is far from impossible. Even better, with values on the floor you won't have to find much cash to secure something really special. The chances are that it will have four doors rather than five, as there are far more saloons available than estates.

AUSTIN CHAMP REVIEW

Designed to be an unbeatable fighting vehicle in the light of WW2 experience, we test the unbeatable Champ...

After WW2, the War Office saw a need to replace the ubiquitous Jeep with a more bespoke vehicle better suited to British Army needs. It had to be an all-purpose light-truck suited to all theatres. A prototype known as Car, Light 5cwt 4x4, Open for Various Roles was running by 1947. The design was put out to commercial tender. But during 1947 Nuffield Mechanisation produced a couple of 4x4 field cars called the Nuffield Gutty. These were effectively the pilot model for the Champ, and one can be seen at the BMIHT museum at Gaydon. Prototype development went further with contract 6/VEH/2387 on 27 August 1948 signed with Wolseley. The ensuing Mudlark can be recognised as an embryo Champ. Parts of the vehicles readiness for use in any area in the world are a reflection of how much Empire Great Britain still administered during the early 1950s. 

The most incredible feature of the Champ and its design wasn’t the ability of the truck to go as fast forwards as backwards – impressive though this party trick is – but the necessity for it to be able to wade in depths of up to 3 feet of water in an unprepared state, or up to 6 feet deep if ‘prepared for wading’, which means raising the wing-mounted air intake and making a few other waterproofing adjustments. Champs also had to be available in ious versions, such as fitted with telephone line laying equipment, a field ambulance rig with two stretchers, an appliqué armour kit, with a Turner winch, or ‘FFW’, Fitted For Wireless to allow long-range communication. The prototype cars read like a who’s who of the British Motor Industry, with bodies coming from Fisher & Ludlow, AC and Solex on the fuel system, Morris for the radiator, Borg & Beck for the clutch, Austin for the transmission and Girling for the brakes.  

As production readiness closed in, the Austin Motor Company was contracted to build the order in 1951. Champs were built at the firm’s Cofton Hackett plant for the military contract using the smallest of the standardised Rolls-Royce B-range of engines. This B40 lugging lump was fitted in a waterproofed state, so the Champ could be driven at depths of up to 6 feet of water when the air intake was raised to its wading position. Was the Champ a success? It had an outstanding cross-country performance, and in an era when most civvie-street cars were slow, could outperform many of them on-road. It was too expensive, at £1200 per vehicle in 1952, over-complex and the order of 15,000 was too large for the British Army as it reduced size during the 1950s. The Champ’s contract was terminated around 4000 vehicles short of the order number. The Army found that for most general purpose uses, the Land-Rover at half the price could do 80 per cent of the work the Champ could. Then, as now, raw economics sealed the Champ’s fate, consigning it to history without the development from Austin that could have turned the model into a British global challenger to Chrysler’s Jeep, and giving Solihull’s Land-Rover a 4x4 competitor through the 1960s.   

ON THE ROAD 
ChampChamp
As you climb aboard the Champ, you’re first faced with what appears to be a high sill, then what appears to be duckboards on the floor. Look closer and that’s exactly what they are, complete with large drainage holes below. This car’s submersibility is evident from the start. Starting involves putting the key in, then flicking the ignition toggle to ‘on’, then thumbing a starter toggle elsewhere on the instrument panel. 

The big Rolls Royce four starts easily. Whereas other 1950s vehicles have positive earth and 6 or 12 volt electrics, the Champ’s 24V negative earth system helps drag the large pistons of the 2800cc motor into life. It ticks over with a burbling enthusiasm. The five gears are arranged in a now-classic dog-leg pattern, with first left and down, then the four remaining gears arranged in a conventional H pattern. "You won’t need first, that’s a crawler gear" owner Alan Rawsterne informs. So into second, lift the floor-hinged clutch and you’re off. Pedal weighting is less heavy than you’d imagine, certainly less so than a Land-Rover 20 years junior. Shifting up through the gears, you find that you can throw almost any gear at it, such is the torque output. On a steep incline offroad, let the Champ slow below a slow walking pace and just as the motor feels inclined to stall, bury the throttle and from 250rpm a wall of torque lugs the Austin forwards withgreat urge. 

Traversing rocky terrain, the four independently sprung torsionbars deliver an incredibly smooth ride, especially for a vehicle with such a short wheelbase and narrow track. The agility of the Champ, it’s ride-comfort, power and performance make the vehicle feel much younger dynamically. And unlike most pre-1980s designs lacking in power assistance, the control-weighting endows the Champ with an ease-of-use and indefatigable air of permanence. Sadly this lulled British squaddies into a false sense of security when the vehicle was in-use by British forces. The speed and dynamic qualities of the Champ meant that when it did eventually get out of shape when being driven on or off-road, crashes that happened were serious. Contemporary Land-Rovers and other four-wheel drive off-road vehicles simply didn’t have the power or the comfort to allow the high-speeds to happen in the first place. 

So where does a Champ sit in the military vehicle collecting stakes now? They’re cheaper than WW2 Jeeps, vastly more comfortable and competent. Plus they are a wholly British engineering success story on a par with other Cold War iconssuch as the Vulcan bomber and Lightning jet fighter. Yet they’re cheaper than most Land-Rovers in decent nick, and more capable off-road. If you’re a true petrolhead, you’d be foolish to ignore the charms and eccentricity of this best-engineered, money-no-object War Office design. That it’s 60 years old this year is astonishing. Buy one for similar money you’d pay for a grey import 8-12 year old Shogun and you’ve got a characterful, appreciating asset supported by one of the friendliest owners clubs in the business.   

SPECIFICATIONS  
Engine 2838cc/4-cyl/SOHC Power 80bhp@3750rpm
Torque 147lb ft@1750rpm
Top speed 65mph 0-60mph 20secs
Fuel consumption 15mpg
Transmission 5-spd manual
Values £1500+   


Champ Trivia

  • Civilian versions of the Champ were built and used an Austin A90 Atlantic motor  
  • The B40 engine was a development of the Rolls Royce 20HP of 1922.  
  • All 5 gears featured synchromesh  
  • A Champ is featured throughout the video 'Reward' by The Teardrop Expodes, which reached no6 in the singles chart in January 1981.  
  • The Champ served with the British Army in the UK, Africa, Germany, BAOR Cyprus, Libya and the Suez Campaign.
  • Early vehicles were sent for troop trials at the end of the Korean War.  
  • B40 Rolls Royce motors were built under licence by Austin. R-R built versions have a 4-digit engine number, Austin built ones 5. 

 

AUSTIN A40 REVIEW

The Austin A40 Farina is the car that bridged the A35/1100 generation gap and is as practical as it is stylish. Tempted? Let us be your Austin A40 guide...



Think Pininfarina, and you tend to think of a long line of jawdropping stunners such as the Lancia Flaminia, Ferrari 288GTO and Fiat Dino. And yet this respected design house has long dabbled in much more workaday machinery, although few have taken the designer’s name. The stylish and practical little Austin A40 is one such, however, and its beauty is more than skin deep. Legendary rally driver, Pat Moss, drove one to tenth place on the 1959 Monte Carlo rally.

Practical, comfortable and charming in the way that only a British Fifties car can be, the Austin A40 is ideal for anybody who fancies some classic motoring fun on the cheap. Plus, its cute Pininfarina-penned lines cut a dash from any angle.

Yet despite its charisma and usability, the A40 is largely forgotten and values still have plenty of climbing to do. How can a pretty car that shares its underpinnings with the Sprite and Midget be so undervalued?



WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

It may have been styled by a distinguished design house, but the Austin A40 Farina still has feet of clay – or more accurately body panels of steel – and rots in all the usual places with the best of them.

Poor rustproofing, hopeless panel availability and low values ensure most A40s have at least some rust - often lots of it. Few owners sink much money into their A40s, so once corrosion starts it'll usually just get worse rather than be nipped in the bud. That's why you must check the entire car from bumper to bumper, prodding, poking and looking for any evidence of filler. Take a magnet with you. It's reckoned that the Mk II is more rust-prone than the Mk I because the later cars used thinner material. The Mk I also featured better rustproofing - although no A40 left the factory with truly decent protection from the elements.

Yu also need to check the whole car for signs of bodged repairs. There are a few key areas that are likely to be hit first. These include the sills, wheelarches and door bottoms along with the headlight surrounds, rear valance, floorpans and rear spring hangers. The A-posts, boot floor, lower wings and boot lid can also rot. So can the grille support and front valance, both of which bolt on. Replacement is easy - but finding the panels won't be.
Body panels are surprisingly scarce, given that more than 364,000 Farinas rolled off the production line (NOS front wings are particularly hard to come by, and the fit of some pattern parts can be truly appalling), so always source the soundest car you can afford.
It's easy to overlook the scuttle, which incorporates the heater plenum chamber. Repairs here are involved, awkward and can be costly. Check the front crossmember, which has the radiator sitting above it. Moisture gets trapped between the radiator and crossmember and corrosion sets in. Because it's hidden out of sight, the rot can really get going before it's spotted.
Engine
It’s mostly good news, here, since the 948cc and 1098cc engines are shared with other BMC cars, including the Morris Minor and Austin A35. They might not be particularly powerful, but they’re as tough as they come and can be tuned to within an inch of their lives. Mk1s and early Mk2s are often uprated using either the marginally more powerful (37bhp plays 34bhp) later 1098cc engine, or more powerful-still units from the loosely related MG Midget, too.
Expect to get 100,000 miles between rebuilds if it's looked after, by which point it'll probably be due a rebore. To check for the early stages of this, run the engine with the oil filler cap removed. If it puffs out fumes, a rebore might be due soon.
Before the bores have worn the big end bearings can wear out, so listen for rumbling denoting their demise. If you need to completely overhaul the powerplant, expect to spend the thick end of £1000 on having it done professionally. It'll cost a lot less if you do it yourself, naturally. 
These engines thrive on regular maintenance, so evidence of 3000-mile oil changes, lubrication (rear spring shackles, brake balance lever, etc) and a new-looking fuel pump filter (which can last up to 6000 miles between cleans) are all good news.
Elsewhere, things to bear in mind on the Mk1 include checking the mechanical fuel pump pipe line unions for cracks and damage and the Zenith carb for evidence of silting up. The Mk2’s SU carb needs less maintenance, although rough running can often be cured by removing the suction chamber and suction disc assembly and cleaning them out thoroughly. A persistently glowing oil pressure warning light can be caused by something as simple as an old oil filter requiring replacement, but could be as a result of either a worn oil pump or – more seriously – worn engine bearings.
Thanks to the fitment of a scroll-type rear crank seal there's almost no chance of it being oil-tight, but for under £100 you can invest in an effective lip seal conversion. Fitting it is an engine-out job, though.
A little tappet noise is common, as is the rattle of a timing chain on worn gears. Replacing it with a Duplex set up is a simple, cheap and sensible upgrade.
Running gear
Again, simplicity is the key here, and the A40’s oily bits are provenly tough. The A40's gearbox and axle were carried over from the A35. There's syncromesh on second, third and fourth, although it was weak on second gear of early gearboxes.
Mk Is will have a smooth gearbox casing (visible down the back of the engine), but it's often substituted for the later ribbed version as seen in the Mk II - this is stronger and features improved syncromesh. If the gearbox is getting worn, it'll jump out of gears, particularly when you lift off the accelerator - try this in each gear. Rebuilding the gearbox will cost around £200 if you do it yourself. A specialist overhaul will be closer to £600.
Worn halfshafts will eventually break if they’re not renewed, but if you’re planning to replace them with examples off a donor car, make sure you replace them like-for-like – ie, a donor left-hand halfshaft should always go onto the left side of the recipient car. A lack of soundproofing makes it easy to hear whines and knocks from the halfshaft splines when they begin to wear.
The differential is similarly hard-wearing. They’re often quite noisy, but will carry on in this vein for hundreds of miles before they finally expire. The clutch requires very little regular maintenance and should last for years as long as the slave cylinder pivot is kept oiled every 3000 miles or so. That said, a slipping clutch is usually as a result of worn thrust springs or a seized piston within the clutch slave cylinder, while a juddering clutch can usually be traced back to a pressure plate being misaligned with the flywheel or loose propshaft bolts.
Steering & suspension
At a time when rack-and-pinion steering was becoming the norm, BMC stuck to a cam-and-peg system. As a result the A40's tiller isn't very precise. If it's really vague, though, an overhaul is clearly due. Boxes last well, as shims can be removed and the peg can be gently tightened down. Oil leaks are common, but the cork oil seal can be easily replaced with a modern one.
The A40 features double-wishbone front suspension with coil springs and lever-arm dampers. The Mk II also has an anti-roll bar. At the back there's a live rear axle with semi-elliptic springs. The Mk I has lever-arm dampers while the Mk II features telescopic shock absorbers.
Kingpins form the basis of the front suspension on all A40s, with the Mk II getting a stronger set-up. Whatever is fitted, it'll need to be lubricated every 1000 miles if it isn't to wear quickly.
If there's lots of play in the system you can expect to pay around £120 plus labour to get both kingpins overhauled. New wishbones are often needed, too, at £55 per side for the parts.
To check for wear, jack up the front of the car by supporting it under the front crossmember, and grip the road wheel top and bottom. Try to rock it. Play suggests kingpin wear, but to be certain, get somebody to apply the footbrake while you repeat the process. If it's 'cured', the wheel bearing just needs adjustment. If there's still play, the kingpin bushes and/or lower links are due for replacement.
It's worth upgrading from the early to the late kingpins for greater durability and strength - the bottom bush is more substantial. You'll need to pay £50 for a pair of the later stub-axles. If you're converting to disc brakes, this upgrade is essential. The parts for a disc brake conversion cost £250 - replacing the entire front suspension assembly is the easiest option. The rear springs have a tendency to sag. If the wheelarch sits lower than the top of the tyre they'll need to be replaced. Expect to pay £260 for originals - but bespoke replacement can probably be fabricated for less.
Wheels & brakes
The steel wheels fitted to all A40s usually last well. They're easy enough to blast and paint or powder coat (the latter at £50-75 per wheel). Alternatively, Midget Rostyles will go straight on. The Midget's wheelnuts will also need to be fitted, though. Minilites are another popular option.
All A40s came with drum brakes all-round, but, as mentioned earlier, it's possible to convert the front anchors to the disc set-up. Things are easier if your start point is an A40 Mk II, which featured the same uprated kingpins as the Midget. Well-serviced and adjusted drums should provide ample stopping power, though.
Interior
The A40’s cabin is a simple and hardwearing as the rest of the car, which is extremely good news since NOS replacement trim components are virtually impossible to source now, and used items come up for sale on the specialist forums and at specialist dealers only very occasionally. There’s a modicum of common componentry between the A40 and some of its sister models, but on the whole it really does pay to keep your eyes peeled for any donor cars or parts that turn up on the web.
Retrimming is your only other option. Carpet sets are easy enough to make up and seats can be reupholstered - but at a price. Look for splits in the top of the dash as the sun can wreak havoc here.
It's a similar story with the brightwork, though new old-stock bits turn up regularly at autojumbles. Bumpers can usually be rechromed (and they're basically the same for Mk I and Mk II but have overrider holes in different places) while overriders can also normally be revived. Mk I front items are unique, but those on the back of the Mk I also fit the front and rear of the Mk II. The headlight surrounds are Mazak so they can age badly and can't be reclaimed.
Instrumentation and switchgear is reliable standard Lucas fare, while the electrical system is incredibly simple. New looms cost around £250. The lighting is also all standard Lucas. Tail light lenses (shared with the Riley 1.5 and Wolseley 1500) can be hard to track down.
With the A40 sharing so many mechanical parts with the Midget, Morris Minor and A35, availability isn't an issue. However, anything bespoke to the A40 can be hard to find, so club membership is key.

OUR VERDICT
The Austin A40 is full of charm, but the usability of the Mk I is limited a little by their low gearing. That's why the Mk II is a better bet is you're planning on doing a reasonably high mileage each year. 
It may not be as much fun to drive as a Mini, but with its low gearing and a kerbweight of under a ton, the A40 feels more zesty than you'd think - if a bit busy with it. If you want something more usable and you're not a slave to originality, higher-ratio back axles, bigger engines and disc brakes from the Midget are a straight swap - and you don't have to spend a fortune either. If you still think you'd rather take the Mini, the A40 is far more unusual, prices are much lower and you'll enjoy a lot more practicality, too - especially if you plump for the Countryman split hatchback version.
Amazingly, rarity is one of the big attractions of prospective A40 Farina ownership these days – parts, be they body panels, interior/ exterior trim or brightwork, are getting increasingly difficult to find, and the cars themselves come up for sale surprisingly rarely. Find a good one, and chances are you’ll have to organise orderly queues of people keen to have a look at it. Rarity aside, however, these are corking little classics in their own right they’re not especially quick, but they’re spacious, mechanically straightforward and handle and ride beautifully.
As the icing on the cake, we can think of few other classics that manage to be quite so practical, yet so compact overall. 

AUSTIN SEVEN REVIEW

The Austin Seven set the foundations for small British cars to follow. Here's our view on the revolutionary little Austin that changed UK roads for the better. 

After the Great War, it was soon realised that for financial reasons Austin was in need of a car that would sell in great numbers and appeal to a wider public than before. Working on the design project in private, at his own expense Austin then employed a junior draughtsman, Stanley Edge, to complete the detailed drawings. Austin provisionally patented his ideas, and while his plans were presented to the Board, it was rumoured that Austin was tendering for the Wolseley factory - for sale at the time - an ideal site for Austin to produce the Seven. Rather than lose the project, the Austin Board grudgingly agreed towards the end of 1921 to produce the prototype Austin Seven.

Announced at the annual dinner of the Birmingham Motor Cycle Club in January 1922, Austin stated that he 'couldn't imagine anyone riding a sidecar if he could afford a car'. And so the new model, weighing only 7cwt, with an overall length of 8'9'', an initial 696cc engine and a 7.2hp RAC rating, was born, being exhibited at the Motor Show in November. By March 1923 the original bore diameter was increased from 2.125'' to 2.2'', giving an engine capacity of 747cc, capable of 50mpg. Production began in earnest, with four-wheel brakes from the outset.

Driving an Austin Seven only makes sense if you’re prepared to adjust your mind to a different pace of life. Its diminutive size means that interior accommodation is cosy, but all of the controls – the few that there are – fall easily to hand. This is motoring at its most basic level, but the simplicity of the baby Austin’s design is admirable – if you don’t need it, it isn’t provided. 

For such a low-powered machine, acceleration from rest is surprisingly lively, thanks to the low gearing and light weight. A sharp clutch, with short pedal travel, further enhances the impression of the car being willing to go. Working through the gears requires care, particularly with the synchro-free  three-speed gearbox, but the Austin is soon  bowling along happily at its own pace. Provided you don’t need to stray far beyond 40mph, life is  a relaxing and enjoyable affair. 

Direction adjustment is an unusual experience. Initially when the steering wheel is turned, the slack in the system has to be taken up before the front wheels respond. Once this play has been overcome, the steering’s directness doesn’t fail to impress.

 

 

AUSTIN 1300 REVIEW

With space for all the family and great economy, the fun, practical and now increasingly rare Austin 1300 is fast becoming a highly sought-after classic.

 

AT THE WHEEL

Yes, these cars are practical, but you really buy an ADO16 for its addictive handling. The driving position betrays its close family links with the Mini, thanks to the oddly raked steering wheel, but the seats themselves are supportive and comfortable and the four-speed gearbox is a delight to stir.

None of these cars is especially powerful (48bhp for the 1100, 58bhp for the 1300), but more than a little of Issigonis’ chassis design genius for the Mini rubbed off on all ADO16s, meaning they always feel faster than they really are. This is thanks in no small part to the utterly sublime Hydrolastic suspension and wheel-at-each-corner layout which, allied to the large, airy glasshouse and shallow dashboard, make every model feel like a large go-kart.

They’re evocative little cars, too – the trademark transmission whine is instantly recognisable, while the Mk2’s tail lights would go on to outlive the little cars by years on the iconic FX/4 Austin Taxis.

Practical, endearingly quirky and great to drive – the Austin BMC 1100/1300 offers quite a combination. All you have to do now is find a good one. 
 

VERDICT

BMC ADO16s may not be quite as rare as their A40 Farina predecessor, but you won’t exactly be falling over them at classic car events either, so relative exclusivity is pretty much guaranteed.

They even have an element of small-screen stardom about them – or rather the Austin 1100 Countryman does – for this is the very car to which a suited and booted John Cleese famously administered ‘a damn good thrashing’ with a tree branch in the classic Fawlty Towers episode, ‘Gourmet Night’.

One of the big attractions of ADO16 ownership, however, is their sheer practicality. Even the two and four-door saloons are uncommonly spacious inside, with room enough for four sizeable adults (and a fair chunk of their luggage inside the notchback boot), but for sheer lugging capacity, the Countryman estate is hard to beat, thanks to its massive boot, folding rear seat and wide-opening top-hinged tailgate.
Much, much rarer is the amazing-looking Crayford estate, which took the standard saloon and added a double clamshell bootlid arrangement not dissimilar to that employed by the Range Rover.

It’s fair to say that the AD016s suffered a protracted period during which they failed to gain classic status, but rarity and a growing, devoted cult following have combined to lift them to desirable classics.

If you’re fond of the racy look, then the MG and the GT are the models to go for, but since all models share the same two basic engines, neither offers peppier performance. The GT does sport slightly lower suspension, however, which improves handling slightly.

And yet, superb handling is something that’s common to all models. Go for a 1300 rather than an 1100 and choose the Mk2 over the earlier cars (somehow, they’re so much more modern looking), and you’ll be in possession of a handsome, practical and friendly little car that feels surprisingly contemporary. In fact, your only real problem is going to be finding a good one! 
  

 

AUSTIN A30 REVIEW

Launched in 1951 at Earls Court, the A30 may be a small car, but it’s big in character. Let us be your guide...

 

The first thing you notice when you approach an A30 is that it feels pretty snug inside. Once you’re installed, there is enough room for most shapes and sizes, and the controls fall nicely to hand, meaning you’re ready to experience everything the little engine has to offer. It may only have 28bhp to play with, but it’s an honest worker and, once up to speed, will buzz along nicely. The brakes will come as something of a surprise, although they work well enough for the performance.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin A30

Engine                                    803cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  28bhp@4800rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 40lb ft@2200rpm

Top speed                                63mph

0-60mph                                  39sec

Consumption                            39mpg 

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

This was the first Austin without a separate chassis – one less thing to check, then – but the innovative bodywork can hide plenty of rot spots. It’s best to examine every inch of the panels and surrounding areas. Pay attention to the bolt-on front wings and the front panel between the headlights and grille as rust here can spread to the front valance and then onto the radiator support. Missing sealing strips can allow muck to enter joints and seams so keep an eye out for any bubbling between panels. Check the boot, as rust can develop around the rear lights, the floor and the rear inner wings. Repair panels are available, but replacement wings are getting scarce.

If the doors have dropped slightly, it may just be worn hinge bushes, but check the hinge panels and door pillars for corrosion and make sure leaking seals haven’t allowed water ingress. Get a good look underneath as the floorpan can rot around the toeboards and jacking points can disintegrate. The sill on the driver’s side, where the handbrake mounts, is another known weak spot. It’s also worth taking a look at the chromework – there isn’t a great deal on an A30, but renovation costs can add up and, unlike most of the vehicle, some brightwork parts are hard to find. It’s always a big plus if the original trafficators are working, too.

ENGINE

Despite its diminutive size, the OHV engine feels unbreakable, although most will probably have been rebuilt by now. As always, check for oil leaks, while excessive blue exhaust smoke points to worn cylinder bores. Evidence of rumbling bearings or rattling timing chains isn’t a deal-breaker, but haggle accordingly. It’s easy to work on, and with parts plentiful and cheap, finding one with solid bodywork is the most important thing. Plenty of upgrades are available to improve performance, so ask about any work that’s been done.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Excessive noise in first or reverse gear means the gearbox is probably due a rebuild, and watch for jumping out of gear; a sharp lift of the throttle on the test drive will reveal any issues here. A noisy differential isn’t a big worry, although ensure that you check for oil leaks. Any clunks from propshaft joints are easy and cheap to sort. 

Suspension comprises coil springs at the front and semi-elliptic leaf springs at the rear and is a simple set-up. The key things to watch for are play in the bushes and shock absorber top mounts at the front, as well as corrosion around the rear spring hangers. Check for wear in the kingpin bushes and ensure that the various grease nipples have been regularly attended to – it will accelerate wear significantly if a previous owner has ignored them. The steering shouldn’t give you trouble, but check for play in the steering box, idler arm or drag links.

BRAKES

The brakes (drums all round) are operated by a combination of hydraulics at the front and cables at the rear. Stopping power is adequate rather than outstanding, so make sure everything is in good order. Watch for wear in the linkages and for any signs of fluid leaks from the main cylinder or from the wheel cylinders themselves. That said, an overhaul is straightforward and the parts are inexpensive.


INTERIOR

‘Charmingly simple’ best describes the A30’s cabin, so it’s just a case of watching for general wear and tear. Any splits in the vinyl trim covering seats and door cards can be sorted by a retrimmer, as can sagging front seats. If it’s a bit musty, make sure that previous water leaks haven’t allowed rot to take hold. Check that all switchgear is working.

OUR VERDICT

The A30 is bursting with a charm and an honest simplicity that makes it very appealing. It is easy to work on and cheap to run, so makes the perfect starter classic. The biggest concern is rot, so make sure you are entirely happy with its body condition before you take the plunge.

 

Austin 20/4HP REVIEW

By the time the decade of Champagne Flapper was upon us, Austin decided to focus on one model in particular - the all-new 20/4 BHP. 

 

When the Great War ended, Austin concentrated on one model - a new 20hp. The design was influenced by Austin's own experiences of using an American 6-cylinder Hudson while the Austin factory was called to manufacture munitions instead of cars, the 20hp also featuring many new ideas derived from war time experience - an example being a central gearchange, making the driver's seat much easier to access from the off-side.The five-bearing fully pressurised engine was also of advanced design.

It was soon realised that Austin could not survive without a greater range, and by the mid-20s the Seven, Twelve, and Sixteen had been added, with the Twenty being offered in both four and six cylinder forms, with engineering to the very highest standard.

'The ''Austin Twenty'' is designed to meet the wants of the very large class of motorists who require a car of moderately high power, embodying all the refinements which modern motor engineering can provide, at a reasonable price', according to the Austin Twenty Owners' Handbook of March 1921.

AUSTIN 3-LITRE REVIEW

Nicknamed the ‘landcrab’, the Austin 3-Litre was crafted from 1968 to 1971. Now rarer than an honest politician, we reckon the Austin 3-Litre makes for ideal classic car motoring. 

BMC wanted a car to rival other large executive saloons.  As the name suggests, it had a 3 litre engine that was mated to a four speed ‘box powering the rear wheels. Sales were very poor, with the standard version being withdrawn as early as 1969. Only the deluxe version survived until it was eventually scrapped in May 1971. 

The design was often blamed for the lack of sales, as the 3 litre was not the most gracious shape ever to come out of longbridge.  When compared to the Austin 1800, it quite obviously shared a centre section with it, and had a long bonnet to accommodate the 3 litre welded on to it on one end, with a boot welded on to the other end. 

The 125-BHP car did use modern technology, featuring self-levelling suspension which was praised at the time for its road holding abilities.  Even the good technology couldn’t save the 3 litre from becoming a sales flop, with just 9,992 being made and never getting close to sales targets.  Sales did not even reach the break-even point of 50 cars per week.

AUSTIN A35 REVIEW

The British Motor Corporation introduced the Austin A35 in 1956 as a replacement for the highly successful Austin A30. Now is your time to grab a chic slice of British motoring history.

 

The A35 looks very similar to its predecessor with a larger wrap around rear window the most obvious difference to the untrained eye. However the A35 had the larger 948cc A-Series straight 4 engine giving 34hp hence the name and an improved gearbox with remote control gear-change.

The A35 was available as a 2 or 4 door saloon for just three years before it was replaced by the A40 Farina in 1959, the Countryman, estate, version ceased production in 1962 but the light van version continued in production until 1968 with an upgrade to the 1098cc A-series engine and stronger road springs in 1962. At launch a 5cwt pickup version was also offered but just 475 were sold making these now extremely rare.

The Austin A35 was never really a match for the faster and roomier Morris Minor but it sold well and continues to have an avid following with probably the most famous van being registration HOP2 1T driven by Wallace and Gromit in the 2005 Aardman movie The Curse of the Were-Rabbit.

AUSTIN 1100/1300 REVIEW

A best seller makes sense as a family-friendly classic...

The Mini’s bigger brother, codenamed ADO16 during its development, was available as an Austin, Morris, MG, Wolseley, Riley and Vanden Plas, although the basic front-wheel drive package remained largely the same throughout. Both 1.1- and 1.3-litre A-Series engines were offered, and the range as a whole quickly became the nation’s best-selling car.

AUSTIN 12/4 REVIEW

The Austin Twelve was designated The Salesmans Joy, and a most ready seller, nearly 70,000 being sold up to 1930.

Launched in late 1921, the Twelve owed its success to Austins superior build quality and the soundness of basic design, the model becoming a by-word for indestructibility. The Twelve engine was a five-bearing magneto ignition side-valve four, displacing 1,861cc from 1927 for which the factory claimed 27bhp at just 2,000rpm, sufficient for 40-45mph cruising, at which speed the Twelve returned around 26mpg.

Effective four-wheel brakes meant that the Twelve coped with sudden emergencies better than many of its contemporary rivals. Enduringly popular and a very attractive model, the Twelve remains a favourite with Austin enthusiasts.

 


 

AUSTIN A30/A35 REVIEW

They're probably the closest things to teddy bears on wheels, but buy a bad A30/A35 and it could be more of a gremlin...

 

After many decades in the doldrums these tiny saloons are finally beginning to be more widely appreciated for the brilliant concept that they were - helped no doubt by the sight of their giant-killing attempts in historic saloon racing.

Modern small cars are finally giving more than 50mpg, but 50 to 60 years ago, both the Austin A30 and the A35 could easily return 50mpg up hill and down dale, and if you really tried more than 60mpg was possible. Its secret was low weight and a small engine with a tiny Zenith 26 carburettor.

They were revolutionary when new - monocoque construction, brand-new overhead valve engine, tiny 13in wheels (even the Morris Minor had 14in), good handling aided by a rear anti-roll bar, four-speed three-synchro gearbox and four doors in such a compact package. Including the very popular vans, well over half a million were built.

Original 803cc cars are fine on level ground but struggle a bit on hills - there's a big gap between third gear and top so you have to slog up at 30mph in top. A35s had more power and a higher third gear, so are much more usable. Many have been fitted with larger, later engines - and providing the conversion has been carried out well, with the right gearbox, they should easily keep up with modern traffic.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

1951-68

Engine 803/848/948/1098cc ohv four-cylinder with single SU carb

Power and Torque A30: 28bhp @ 4800rpm; 40lb ft @2 400rpm. A35: 34bhp @ 4750rpm; 50lb ft @ 2000rpm

Transmission Four-speed three-synchro manual, rear-wheel drive

Top speed 64-72mph

0-60mph 42.3/30.1 sec

Economy 40-50mpg

 

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

Rot

This is the biggest enemy. Vans are worst, especially the last ones, which were made from thinner-gauge steel and had waistline trims under which rust begins. The rear spring hangers are trickiest to repair, especially the rearmost ones where the bumper mountings and rear wing corners also meet. Ideally you need a jig to ensure alignment is correct when welding in new panels. The front hangers of the rear springs are rot-prone too. Be wary of any car where the doors are drooping. It could be something as simple as worn hinges, but it could also point to rot in the A-posts, which is difficult to repair.

Although original Austin panels are now rare, quite a few handy repair ones are available, and the club also stocks a great deal of bits that might be needed.

 

Sill box section

Behind the lower corner of the front wing the sill box section continues forwards, stepped in and protected by a rubber seal between wing and sill. The rubber perishes and lets in water and mud, which then rots right through the sill box section, the wing and the bottom door hinge area - open the door to check this area for rot and filler. Repair is complex, usually necessitating removing the wing, door and adjacent interior trim.

 

Rust

Other areas where rust is found include the box section supporting the radiator and tying the front end together, sills, floors, bottoms of doors (especially rear doors and their shut faces on four-door cars), front valances, bootlids and rear wings above the wheelarches.

 

Interior trim

Interior trim is not available in kits, so unless you're very hands-on, retrimming is a bespoke job for a professional retrimmer. The original Rexine leathercloth is usually replaced with vinyl; leather was a rare option, almost never seen today. The headlining is woolcloth and difficult to clean and even more diffcult to replace if very grimy. They must be stretched and stitched to the frame, which is then clipped in place.

Any electrical problems are usually down to corroded earths, looms going hard or bad DIY fitment of accessories - look for the trademark bullet connectors. Otherwise the car's wiring system is extremely simple. Mazak interior trim items tend to get pitted.

 

Engine

The engines are shared with Morris Minors (and in the case of the 948, with A40 Farinas and early Sprites/Midgets), so most parts are readily available and fairly cheap.

The 803 is costliest to rebuild and is also weaker, relying on bypass oil filtration and small bearings. It needs frequent oil and filter changes and is often worn out by 50,000 miles - once the crank is worn beyond limits, you'll struggle to find another. The 948 engine is strongest, the 1098 being quicker to knock out its big ends. Upgrading a car with a more powerful A-series is common and not that frowned upon by enthusiasts.

On all the engines, blue exhaust smoke on start-up and on the overrun signals oil bein gburnt, probably due to worn piston rings and bores. An uneven idle speed could be down to carburettor issues but may also point to burnt valves. Valve gear and timing chain rattle is common, but should be able to be adjusted if it is too loud. Oil leaks are almost inevitable, but there shouldn't be a slick underneath.

Unleaded conversion has not yet been done on most cars, as many years running on leaded and gentle use means valve seat recession is slow. When required, converted cylinder heads are readily available.

 

Gearbox

Gearboxes are generally long-lived, with weak synchromesh on second usually the first sign of age. The A30 gearbox is shorter with a long 'wand' gearlever and parts are harder to find; 948 gearboxes were much stronger. The A35s, with its remote stick, has more pleasant gearchanges than the A30.

Converting A30s to a later gearbox is possible but involved, requiring an enlarged gearbox tunnel, shorter propshaft and either a repositioned gearlever or adapting the later gearbox to the wand type. Alternatively, A35 gear clusters can be fitted to the A30 gearbox. Ribbed-case gearboxes from 1098 BMC cars are strongest and a straight swap for A35s. If reconditioning is needed, you get what you pay for - some in the past were of very dubious quality.

Disappearing synchromesh is likely on the high mileage cars, with second likely to be the first casualty. A noisy gearbox suggests the bearings are wearing out. Propshaft universal and halfshafts are also prone to wearing out eventually, but replacement isn't that costly or difficult. Clutches should see about 100,000 miles of use before they need replacing, while rear diffs should be double that unless they've been allowed to run low on oil - which does happen, as they are prone to leaking. A whining means this has probably happened.   

 

Hydro-mechanical brakes

Hydro-mechanical brakes (mechanical rear operated by a single hydraulic cylinder in the middle) can be a weakness and must be set up properly to work efficiently.

The front cylinders are prone to seize from water ingress and lack of use; new-old-stock cylinder supply is running out, soBull Motif hopes to be making new ones soon. At the back, oil leaks from the back axle into the brakes can be fiddly to cure - look behind the wheels for tell-tale dampness.

 

Steering

The steering is unique to the car and, although robust, the box and the six balljoints wear. The idler is more likely to seize than to wear significantly - check it if the stering is heavy. Check the steering box for leaks and wear; there are three variants. Shock absorbers wear and reconditioned ones are of poor quality.

 

Front suspension

Leaks from the steering box will lead to wear here. One way that people try to tackle is it overtightening, which will help in the short term but will eventually accelerate the wear and result in tight steering. Make sure the steering centres after a corner.

Front suspension needs frequent lubrication to 12 grease nipples to keep it supple and unworn - if they aren't, they will rapidly deteriorate and sloppy handling will be the result. If you suspect this, jack the car up and try to rock each wheel top to bottom while somebody presses the brake. Check for wear in the kingpins (which Bull Motif can replace with a complete unit that avoids the need for honing).  

Wishbone bushes also wear out and aren't easily replaced - most people just change the wishbones as a whole. Lever arm dampers are fitted all around but lose their efficiency, especially if leakages have occurred. Front coil springs and rear leaf springs can also crack and sag - you should be able to see the top of each tyre under its wheelarch. Rear shackle pin asssemblies also need greasing every 1000 miles, otherwise handling will be badly affected.

Non-servo assisted drum brakes are quite straightforward, but handbrakes often lose their effectiveness due to linkage wear and amateurish adjustment.

 

OUR VERDICT

They're not fast (not in standard form at least, though they are very easily tuned), but they are fun and are very easy to own and drive.

The A30/35 Owners' Club does an excellent job of co-ordinating spares supply and assisting owners. Many parts were shared with Minors and much of the running gear was carried forward into the Sprite and Midget range, and the A-series engine that started life in the A30 in 1951 was in use in Minis until 2000, so most service parts are very cheap.

The A30 and A35 are the kind of cars that bring out the affection in everybody. Assuming you keep on top of the body care and lubricate the suspension every 1000 miles, they're very simple to look after, cost peanuts to run and are eminently usable and entertaining vehilces to own. Assuming you don't mind taking the pace of life just a little slower...

AUSTIN A55 FARINA REVIEW

For a spacious British classic consider the Austin A55...

 

The first thing to strike you getting into an A55 is the sense of spaciousness – one of the key selling points when it was new. The thin pillars provide great visibility and enhance its ease of use on today’s roads. A large, well-shaped boot means four-up touring is well within the scope of this comfortable classic. But it’s behind the lovely thin-rimmed wheel where the big Austin proves most enjoyable, the well-weighted steering and comfortable ride making light work of long journeys. 

For a car of this size, the 1.5-litre B-Series engine provides ample performance, and while acceleration is hardly electric, as you might expect, it doesn’t leave you struggling to keep up with the flow of traffic either. Response from the SU carburettor-fed unit should be smooth and linear on a well-tuned example and while cabin noise increases noticeably once over 50mph, the engine rarely feels particularly strained. Despite a fairly hefty kerb weight, a well-sorted A55 handles well, further adding to its long-distance touring credentials.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

AUSTIN A55 FARINA

Engine                                    1489cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  52bhp@4350rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 82lb ft@2100rpm

Top speed                                78mph

0-60mph                                  23.6sec

Consumption                            28mpg 

 

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

There are some well-known rot spots that need careful checking if extensive refurbishment is to be avoided. Key areas are the inner and outer sills, rear wheel arches, the headlight surrounds, and the back of the front wings where they meet the sills. Be sure to check the boot floor and rear bulkhead along with the A-posts, but to be honest all of the panels are at risk on the A55, so it pays not to rush any checks here. The good news is that just about all panels are available from clubs or specialists. 

Take a good look at the chrome too – there is plenty of it on an A55 and replacement and refurbishment costs will soon mount. Some trim parts were also cast in Mazak zinc alloy and these can be difficult to find now, as well as tricky to restore, so worth bearing in mind if parts are missing or in poor condition.

Although the A55 uses a monocoque bodyshell, there are still a number of ‘chassis’ rails and box sections that need careful examination. The point where rail and outrigger meet below the front footwells 

is a known rust spot – many have had a triangular repair made here and while not original, is much stronger. The box-section crossmember behind the front valance often succumbs to rust and can be a tricky repair, although the iron crossmember that supports the engine is often protected by leaking oil! Cracks can appear where the steering box mounts to the chassis so it’s worth checking for this.

 

ENGINE

The 1489cc engine is often considered among the best of the B-Series units and is capable of racking-up substantial mileages if well-maintained. Oil leaks are the bane of many an owner’s life, the crankshaft oil seals being a particular weak point. Watch too for water leaks. Worn pistons or cylinder bores will lead to plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust, and while an engine re-build is a realistic DIY task, oil pressure of 50-60psi when warm will provide some reassurance that things are healthy. Excessive noise from the top of the engine indicates valve-gear or timing chain wear. Corroded radiators, water leaks, and subsequent head gasket failure are also common problems to look out for.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox (which lacks synchro on first gear) is a strong unit and rarely gives trouble – a test drive will reveal any issues. Interestingly, while the majority of cars had a floor-change, a column-change arrangement was optional, although it appears that few cars were built in this spec. A whining rear axle will also be obvious on the move but rarely leads to complete failure.

The suspension set-up is thoroughly conventional, with coil springs and wishbones up front and a live axle and semi-elliptic leaf springs aft. Oil leaks from the Armstrong lever arm dampers are worth watching for as are sagging rear leaf springs, but neither are costly to replace. A check for rot around front suspension mountings and rear spring hangers is advised, though. The cam and lever steering will get excessively sloppy over time. However, rebuilding or replacing the steering box and 

steering joints is a cost-effective way to bring a tired example up to scratch. Brakes are drums all round, originally with Girling hydraulics, and while they can be tricky to set up properly, seized or leaking wheel cylinders on little-used cars is the most likely issue to
come across. 


INTERIOR

Leather trim was standard on the A55 and, while tidying a scruffy cabin is a relatively straightforward task, some parts are getting scarce and the cost of a major refurbishment needs to be factored into the asking price. Reproduction carpets are easily available, but leather will be expensive as more than two hides were used to make the upholstery. Watch too for leaks from front or rear screen seals that may have damaged trim or allowed rust to take hold. If you can find an example fitted with options such as a radio and electric clock, 
so much the better, but all cars came with three ashtrays as standard, which may, or may not, be handy!

Austin_A55_Cambridge_ID117089.jpeg

 

OUR VERDICT

If comfort, space, and ease of use rank high on your list of priorities for a classic car, then you’re likely to enjoy what the A55 has to offer. The car represents the most pure Farina styling of the range. Good parts availability and simple, robust engineering only add to the appeal. 

There is no ignoring the fact that rot can be a major factor with these cars but many have already been restored, so find a good one and we’re pretty sure you won’t be disappointed. And with plenty of chrome and optional two-tone paintwork, you’ll get a welcome dash of style too. Don’t hammer them down the motorway, but cruise at 60mph and they’re fine.

Austin A12/5 SHEERLINE REVIEW

Considered to be a poor-man’s Bentley when it was new, we discover the Sheerline’s charms...

 

The big Austin is all about space and luxury and they are the first things to hit you when you step aboard. Acres of fine leather and beautifully polished wood provide a great ambience, and while the square-faced instruments mightn’t be everyone’s cup of tea, there is no doubting the craftsmanship involved. 

Underway, the torquey straight six is refined and performance is more than adequate given the hefty kerb-weight, while the long wheelbase provides a supremely comfortable ride – you can certainly see why the Sheerline was compared to Bentleys of the day. As you might expect from something so large, this is a car that is all about wafting its occupants around in comfort so handling dynamics don’t really enter the equation. That said the independent front suspension and leaf-sprung live axle cope admirably with the bulk if you decide to press on and the drum brakes are more than up to the job. Frankly though you wouldn’t want to push things – instead sit back and enjoy the luxury on offer knowing you’re behind the wheel of one Britain’s finest post-WW2 models.

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin A12/5 Sheerline

Engine                                    3995cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  130bhp@3700rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 150lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                81mph

0-60mph                                  19.4sec

Consumption                            13mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Major restoration of such a large car can be an expensive prospect, so careful checks of the bodywork and separate chassis are needed. The steel chassis is considered bulletproof but easy to repair if necessary, while the rear edge of the front wings, the lid of the spare wheel compartment, and the boot lid corners are potential rot spots. Beneath the steel skin of the doors is a wooden frame which can rot away, so any doubts over their integrity should ring alarm bells. Bear in mind too that replacement panels are almost impossible to source, so it’ll be a case of repairing what’s there or letting-in fresh metal. Interestingly Sheerlines were fitted with a ‘Jackall’ internal jacking system, operated by a hydraulic pump that allowed all four wheels to be lifted at once. It is worth checking to see if this is still operational. 

While on the exterior, take a good look at the chrome-work and light fittings. The latter are hard to find now so may have been replaced with non-original parts, while the huge Lucas P100 headlamps can cost a few hundred pounds each to replace. Items such as door locks and handles are equally rare so take the time to ensure everything is present and correct. It’s worth checking the operation of the sliding steel sunroof as a re-build is labour intensive, and ensure that leaking seals haven’t caused water damage inside.

ENGINE

The 4.0-litre engine is derived from the Austin K-Series truck and is strong and reliable with proper care, and the simple construction means a re-build is fairly straightforward. If there’s a weakness it’s the cooling system, considered to be the result of squeezing a big engine into a poorly-ventilated engine bay. Overheating will likely result in a blown head gasket so it check for any evidence of this. Recent radiator refurbishment or replacement is good news as is the fitting of a modern electric fan which pretty much cures the problem. Engines can suffer from fuel vapourisation, cured by insulating the pipes around the carburettor. 

ELECTRICS

A thorough check of the electrical system is recommended too. The braided wiring may have started to deteriorate – always a risk with old cars – while items such as control boxes and instruments are very hard to find now which means re-building original components.

RUNNING GEAR

The four-speed manual gearbox is also lorry-based with all the strength that implies. It’s generally trouble-free although problems selecting gears are likely to be caused by wear in the column change linkage. It’s an easy fix though. Wear in the propshaft joints or an especially noisy differential will be apparent on the test drive.

The running gear is robust, but there are a few things worth checking for. The hefty kerb weight puts a strain on the lever-arm dampers and rear leaf springs so check these aren’t leaking or sagging respectively while joints and bushes may be ready for an overhaul, the track rod ends particularly. The steering’s cam gear can’t be adjusted so a re-build will be needed if it’s worn. The non-servo hydraulic drum brakes are up to the task but look for signs of leaking wheel cylinders – original-spec replacements are costly but specialists can re-sleeve them instead. The handbrake was poor even when new so ensure it holds the car on a slope. 


INTERIOR

The cabin of a Sheerline was an object lesson in the use of high quality materials, with features such as Wilton carpets and a wool cloth headlining adding to the luxury feel. That means a decrepit interior will be seriously costly to restore, most likely needing professional attention, so don’t ignore trim in poor condition. Take a good look at the horn rim on the Bakelite steering wheel – the original Mazak part is almost impossible to find and may have been replaced with a stainless steel item. Lastly, check for evidence of water leaks from the rear screen – an issue even when new which may have damaged the trim, or worse allowed rust to take hold.

OUR VERDICT

The Sheerline is a fine blend of simplicity, reliability, and comfort and those attributes alone would be enough to swing it for most buyers. It enjoys a degree of exclusivity compared to other luxury cars of the day, which is an added attraction – you’re unlikely to be disappointed if you were to choose one of these over a Bentley. Finding a good one is the key though as the quality of its construction (not to mention its sheer size) means major restoration work will sap funds depressingly quickly. There are probably few finer ways to travel though.

AUSTIN A55 CAMBRIDGE REVIEW

Practicality meets affordability with the Farina range...

 

In 1958 the British Motor Corporation enrolled the help of Italian designer Battista Farina to revamp its range of saloon cars, including the Oxford V, which arrived in 1959. The car was joined in the ‘Farina’ lineup by the Wolseley 15/60, Riley 4/68, Austin A55 Cambridge and the MG Magnette, which came on stream between 1958 and 1959. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin A55 CAMBRIDGE

Engine                                    1489cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  55bhp@4400rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 81lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                78mph

0-60mph                                  25.4sec

Consumption                           29mpg  

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

As with most cars of this era, rust is the main issue. Mechanical components can be replaced with ease, but a rotten body will be considerably more difficult – and therefore expensive – to put right. Wheel arches and sills are the first place to check as they’re usually the first areas to rot. Ensure you feel right up inside the bodywork for any crustiness. Surface rust isn’t the end of the world, but keep an eye out for rotten, soft patches. Wings can rot by headlamps and at the lower rear - check for GRP replacements and negotiate the price you’re about to pay accordingly if it bothers you.

Rust isn’t just a cosmetic issue with these cars – it could be terminal. Give A-posts a thorough inspection, and also pay close attention to chassis rails and outriggers. Any rust here could be a death sentence for the car. It’s best to get the vehicle on ramps for this check, and to employ the services of a garage if you’re unsure what to look for. If you don’t have access to a garage lift, sagging doors can indicate A-post trouble and is not to be ignored. Open each door then gently lift to check for this.

 

ENGINE

In 1959 all the BMC Farinas were fitted with the tried and tested 1.5-litre B-series engine mated to a four-speed manual gearbox, both of which were well known for being built to last. These four-cylinder engines have been known to last as long as 150,000 miles and are tougher than their 6-cylinder C-Series counterparts, which came in later. 

Don’t be overly concerned by minor oil leaks. Checking the driveway or garage floor will be a good indicator. Some smoke is to be expected on startup and should be of little concern, but a whisper-quiet engine suggests over-tight tappets, which will burn out with time. 

Four-speed manual gearboxes are strong, but are well known for a weak synchromesh on second gear. It’s worth checking this on your test drive – if its fine you can assume the ‘box is in good condition. Clutches can last nearly as long as the engine, so if it needs to be replaced its likely a one-time job. 

 

RUNNING GEAR

While the majority of components are quite rugged, the BMC Farinas Achilles’ heel was steering and suspension. While the steering is never going to be pin-sharp, excessive vagueness can be a real problem. Some adjustment of the steering box is possible, but if the problem remains its likely caused by worn cross member mounting bushes. Replacing these items is a major undertaking and will cost a small fortune. 

Early cars have a number of grease nipples, which need attention every few thousand miles – quiz the seller to check they haven’t been neglected. For this reason, avoid cars that have sat for any length of time on a dealer’s forecourt. 

Press gently on each corner of the car to assess the state of the suspension – any creaking or groaning is likely to be a costly fix, so factor this into the negotiations. Check that the car sits evenly on its springs – rear leafs lose their tension over time and can cause the rear end to sag. While the parts aren’t expensive, it is a home-fix for the more confident amateur mechanic. 


INTERIOR

The electrical systems on cars of this period are simple and straightforward, but it pays to check that everything is working as it should. Pay particular attention to switches and heater controls, but also check exterior lighting. 

Interiors are still available, but will be secondhand. 

OUR VERDICT

The BMC Farina range models are well built, tough and reliable classics when properly maintained. A conservative image has led to values remaining low, but this won’t continue. As fewer cars survive each passing year the price of these attractive saloons is sure to rise. 

AUSTIN ALLEGRO REVIEW

Tips on how to find an Allegro you can depend on...

 

In 1973 British Leyland unleashed the Austin Allegro on to a world that probably wasn’t quite ready for it. Replacing the much-loved but aged 1100/1300 was never going to be easy, but the roly-poly styling and an attempt to reinvent the (steering) wheel with its rectangular Quartic helm meant it had an uphill struggle from the get-go. Unfortunately, as British Leyland’s woes worsened and the Allegro became the pin-up for its problems, fewer and fewer customers decided to indulge. 

 

VITAL STATISTICS

Austin Allegro 1300 Super

Engine                                    1275cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  59bhp@5300rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 68.5lb ft@3000rpm

Top speed                                84mph

0-60mph                                  18.4sec

Consumption                            31mpg

Gearbox                                    4-spd manual/4-spd auto opt.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Front valances rust – an MoT failure – as does the metal behind the fog lamps/dummy grilles. Corrosion can also strike around the sidelights/indicators and in both front wheelarches. Front wings deteriorate by their bottom corners, and look for rust under the windscreen. In the engine bay, look for bubbling paint due to fluid spills from the brake and clutch reservoirs. Wet carpets indicate water can’t drain from the bulkhead air intake grille. Series 2-on cars had plastic sill covers, which can mask rust underneath. Door bottoms will start to disappear if their drain holes are blocked. Look for bad corrosion at the bottom of the rear arches, which can spread to the rear subframe mountings.

ENGINE

There are two engine types: A-series 1000s, 1100s and 1300s, and E-series 1500s and 1750s. A-series engines are tough and simple, and parts are plentiful. Excessive blue smoke from the exhaust during starting and on the overrun points to significant wear. Fumes from under the filler cap are also a concern. In 1982 stronger, smoother A-plus engines were fitted. The E-series engine is the weaker of the two units and parts are less plentiful. 

Head gasket issues can also strike, and noisy timing chains are trickier to replace. Identify worn crankshaft bearings as a growl from the bottom end.

RUNNING GEAR

A-series cars have four-speed gearboxes, which suffer few troubles. E-series have five-speeders that are usually quite baulky in use and top gear can be very difficult to find. Auto boxes go on for ages, but stretched selector cables will cause issues and are not easy to source for 1500 and 1750 models. Check the car is sitting level all around – if not, the worst case scenario is failed displacer units, though they’re still available. On your test drive listen for clicking noises from the wheels at full lock, pointing to a worn CV joint. 


INTERIOR

Basic Allegros had vinyl upholstery, which is more resilient than the brushed nylon of Series 3 and velour of HLS types. Dashboards and trim often rattle, sag or come loose. Vanden Plas models had wood and leather to worry about, which will obviously cost more to put right if shabby. Electrical issues are usually down to bad earths or corroded connections, especially around the underbonnet fuse box.   

OUR VERDICT

There’s been a growing appreciation in recent years for these characterful, practical classics. Custodianship of an Allegro is often a quite hilarious experience and you’ll never be far from a good joke or two. Best of all, these Austins are cheap and cheerful to buy, run and maintain, and there are still plenty to go around. Forget your prejudices and try one – you may just find yourself growing to adore it.    

 

 

 

AUSTIN MAXI REVIEW

It was well-named for its space, but has the Maxi shaken off its reputation for poor build?

The Maxi should be more highly regarded. It was Sir Alec Issigonis’s final design and the last car developed by the British Motor Corporation – although its launch timing also made it the first flowering from the new British Leyland morass. But lack of glamour – much more a workhorse rather than a charismatic machine – and poor build quality destroyed its reputation. Those that have survived are generally the good ones now. 

VITAL STATISTICS

Engine                                    1748cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm)                  95bhp@5350rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 107lb ft@3500rpm

Top speed                                101mph

0-60mph                                  13.2sec

Consumption                           25mpg

Gearbox                                    5-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Being a British Leyland product of the 1970s, rust is unlikely to be that far away. Around the headlamps and sidelights are obvious areas to check, where muck gets trapped. Front wings go frilly around their rear edges and bottoms, plus where they mate with the front panel. A support bracket halfway up behind the wing also harbours rust, which will ultimately break through. 

Look for bulkhead corrosion due to spilled clutch fluid and leaves in the intake grille. Sills should also be scrutinised, from both outside and inside. You’ll need to lift the carpets to do so, which is a good point to check the rest of the floorpan. Door bottoms evaporate because of blocked drain holes. 

Wheelarches often breed rust, and don’t forget the load area. When water gets in, it will collect in nooks and ultimately wreak havoc. Try to get underneath to check out the valance, floorpan, front subframe and mountings, suspension arm mountings and the suspension turrets themselves. 

 

ENGINE

The 1485cc and 1748cc E-series engines are resilient enough, so just investigate for signs of old-age wear, such as blue smoke and excessive noise, like a noisy timing chain (meaning parting the engine from the gearbox to rectify) and bottom end rumbles denoting worn crankshaft bearings. Expect any example to drink oil. Single carburettor cars suffer from vapour lock, making them difficult to re-start when warm, and heat also causes the fuel lines in the engine bay to go brittle. Keep an eye out for the mayonnaise under filler cap indications of head gasket failure. 

The five-speed gearboxes are weak. The first 1.5-litre cars had cable-operated ones, which stretched. From 1970, rod ‘boxes were adopted, but they’re pretty poor, too – worn synchromesh, jumping out of gear, and leaking oil. Automatic transmissions can suffer from stretched selector cables. 

 

RUNNING GEAR

Hydrolastic suspension was used up until the 1977 adoption of Hydragas. With both, look for tilting or collapse. Often a pump-up at a garage will rectify things, although it might be that a pipe or hose has given way. Uneven tyre wear signals worn suspension mounting bushes. Brakes (disc at the front, drum at the rear) present few problems, save for seizing on little-used examples. 

 

INTERIOR

BL/BMC parts bin raiding means a lot of components are shared with sibling cars and thus it’s still pretty common to find good items secondhand. Cloth seats can go saggy and tear, and keep in mind the dashboard on all but the earliest cars was wood, so may crack or peel. Electrics are basic, with most issues down to DIY meddling or bad connections.

 

OUR VERDICT

All the cars are built like the proverbial tank, all of them offer plenty of room for family transport to and from events, and basic running costs are reasonably affordable too. Just don’t expect to find very many spares at autojumbles in the UK. Your starting-point for spares should be one of the used parts specialists; some of them have New Old Stock parts too, so you might just get lucky.

 

 

 

 

 

AUSTIN A40 FARINA REVIEW

Think Pinifarina, and you tend to think of a long line of jaw-dropping stunners such as the Lancia Flaminia, Ferrari 288GTO and Fiat Dino. And yet this respected design house has long dabbled in much more workaday machinery, although few have taken the designer’s name. The stylish and practical little Austin A40 is one such, however, and its beauty is more than skin deep: legendary rally driver, Pat Moss, drove one to tenth place on the 1959 Monte Carlo rally.

 

It may have been styled by a distinguished design house, but the A40 Farina still has feet of clay – or more acccurately body panels of steel – and rots in all the usual places with the best of them.

These cars suffer at the front more than most, so check the panel beneath the radiator grille aperture for hidden corrosion (this area tends to rust from the inside out), and also the areas immediately surrounding the headlights. This latter in particular can be hidden successfully by sufficient filler and a cheap blow-over re-spray, so be vigilant.

Out back, the lower edge of the double-skinned bootlid can trap water with predictable consequences, likewise the boot floor. The rear spring hangers are also prone to extensive – and expensive – corrosion.

Body panels are surprisingly scarce, given that more than 364,000 Farinas rolled off the production line (NOS front wings are particularly hard to come by, and the fit of some pattern parts can be truly appalling), so always source the soundest car you can afford.

VITAL STATISTICS

AUSTIN A40 MK1

Engine                                    948cc/4-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  34bhp@4750rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 50lb/ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                72mph

0-60mph                                  31.2sec

Consumption                           37.7mpg

Gearbox                                   4-speed manual


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

 

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

It may have been styled by a distinguished design house, but the A40 Farina still has feet of clay – or more acccurately body panels of steel – and rots in all the usual places with the best of them.

These cars suffer at the front more than most, so check the panel beneath the radiator grille aperture for hidden corrosion (this area tends to rust from the inside out), and also the areas immediately surrounding the headlights. This latter in particular can be hidden successfully by sufficient filler and a cheap blow-over re-spray, so be vigilant.

Out back, the lower edge of the double-skinned bootlid can trap water with predictable consequences, likewise the boot floor. The rear spring hangers are also prone to extensive – and expensive – corrosion.

Body panels are surprisingly scarce, given that more than 364,000 Farinas rolled off the production line (NOS front wings are particularly hard to come by, and the fit of some pattern parts can be truly appalling), so always source the soundest car you can afford.

 

ENGINE

It’s mostly good news, here, since the 948cc and 1098cc engines are shared with various other BMC cars, including the Morris Minor and Austin A35. They might not be particularly powerful, but they’re as tough as they come and can be tuned to within an inch of their lives. Mk1s and early Mk2s are often uprated using either the marginally more powerful (37bhp plays 34bhp) later 1098cc engine, or more powerful-still units from the loosely related MG Midget, too.

These engines thrive on regular maintenance, so evidence of 3000-mile oil changes, lubrication (rear spring shackles, brake balance lever, etc) and a new-looking fuel pump filter (which can last up to 6000 miles between cleans) are all good news.

Elsewhere, things to bear in mind on the Mk1 include checking the mechanical fuel pump pipe line unions for cracks and damage and the Zenith carb for evidence of silting up. The Mk2’s SU carb needs less maintenance, although rough running can often be cured by removing the suction chamber and suction disc assembly and cleaning them out thoroughly.

A persistently glowing oil pressure warning light can be caused by something as simple as an old oil filter requiring replacement, but could be as a result of either a worn oil pump or – more seriously – worn engine bearings.

 

RUNNING GEAR

Again, simplicity is the key here, and the A40’s oily bits are provenly tough. Worn halfshafts will eventually break if they’re not renewed, but if you’re planning to replace them with examples off a donor car, make sure you replace them like-for-like – ie, a donor left-hand halfshaft should always go onto the left side of the recipient car.

The differential is similarly hard-wearing. They’re often quite noisy, but will carry on in this vein for hundreds of miles before they finally expire. 

The clutch requires very little regular maintenance and should last for years as long as the slave cylinder pivot is kept oiled every 3000 miles or so. That said, a slipping clutch is usually as a result of worn thrust springs or a seized piston within the clutch slave cylinder, while a juddering clutch can usually be traced back to a pressure plate being misaligned with the flywheel or loose propshaft bolts.


INTERIOR

The A40’s cabin is a simple and hard-wearing as the rest of the car, which is extremely good news since NOS replacement trim components are virtually impossible to source now, and used items come up for sale on the specialist forums and at specialist dealers only very occasionally. There’s a modicum of common componentry between the A40 and some of its sister models, but on the whole it really does pay to keep your eyes peeled for any donor cars or parts that turn up on the web. 

OUR VERDICT

Amazingly, rarity is one of the big attractions of prospective A40 Farina ownership these days – parts, be they body panels, interior/exterior trim or brightwork, are getting increasingly difficult to find, and the cars themselves come up for sale surprisingly rarely. Find a good one, and chances are you’ll have to organise orderly queues of people keen to have a look at it.

Rarity aside, however, these are corking little classics in their own right: they’re not especially quick, but they’re spacious, mechanically straightforward and handle and ride beautifully.

As the icing on the cake, we can think of few other classics that manage to be quite so practical, yet so compact overall.