FORD SIERRA COSWORTH REVIEW

Ford

When it came time to replace the ever popular Cortina in 1982 the Ford Sierra's aerodynamic styling was ahead of its time and a bit of a shock to the more conservative Ford buyers.

But that modern styling meant that during ten years of production the car remained looking current while other marques' offerings of the time quickly began to look dated. Ford offered the Sierra in a mind-boggling variety of engine sizes, from humble 1.3L to 2.9i V6 and RS Cosworth. Body styles varied from 3-door hatchback to 5-door estate and even a pickup. Transmissions were 3 and 4 speed automatics and 4 and 5 speed manuals. A range that offered something for everyone from families to racers and, probably most importantly for the success of the model, fleet buyers. As fleet cars they put in many hard miles at the hand of reps and business drivers, so low-mileage cars are very hard to come by these days, but they can be found.

Sierras were built for easy servicing and low running costs so parts are readily available but be aware that parts for the 4x4 and rear-wheel drive models are not interchangeable, nor between the four and six-cylinder models.

A car that was once seen in its thousands up and down the motorways of Britain is now becoming scarce and to the surprise of many good, low mileage, examples are beginning to change hands for surprising sums. However, it is the wild touring car racer for the road RS Cosworth that attracts the most money. Fancy one yourself? You'd better read our guide below.

VITAL STATISTICS

1986 RS Cosworth

Engine 1993cc/4-cyl/DOHC

Power 201bhp@6000rpm

Torque 204lb ft@4500rpm

Top Speed 145mph

0-60mph 6sec

Economy 21mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

1 Only 500 examples of the RS500 were made, so beware of replicas. Authentic examples should have larger ducts in the front bumper, while aerodynamics were improved thanks to a front splitter and extra spoiler on the tailgate. Engines should have a larger turbo and intercooler, two injectors per cylinder and larger capacity oil and water pumps. If in doubt, check the VIN plate on to the slam panel and the chassis number in the floorpan – they should match on a Cosworth, but not on an RS500.

2 You need to look out for corrosion, but it’s crash damage that’s killed most Cossies. On top of a thorough inspection of the car’s structure and panels, a HPI history check is highly recommended. Rippled inner wings or missing seam sealer should set alarm bells ringing, while serious corrosion most likely stems from badly repaired crash damage.

3 Other areas prone to rot include the joint where front wings meet the slam panel, under the rubber trim inside the tailgate and, oddly, behind the windscreen washer bottle in the engine bay. The double-skinned rear chassis rails, front inner wings and suspension are tricky areas to repair.

4 The twin-cam engine is unstressed when in standard tune, but most have been hotted up, so check the 330bhp safety limit hasn’t been exceeded. RS500s have a stronger cylinder block casing, so can take more power without failing.

5Head gasket problems due to corrosion are common and end up pressurising the cooling system. Check by getting the engine up to temperature and carefully removing the header tank cap – major bubbling points to trouble. An upgraded gasket is the best option.

6 Check for play in the steering, as the rubber bush in the universal joint gets cooked by the turbo. The bushes within the track control arms aren’t up to the job either. They wear rapidly, so replacement with a set of polyurethane items is worthwhile, including the anti-roll bar mounts.

7 Many Cossies have aftermarket wheels fitted, so check there is enough inner wheelarch clearance for them. The standard brakes are decent, but will only put up with so much abuse. Judder through the pedal when braking signifies warped discs, meaning a new set will be required.

8 Most original trim parts are obsolete, so check them thoroughly. Also, the dash top can split. While repairs are possible, a new panel is often the best solution – but they’re not cheap, even if you can find one.

9 Aftermarket sound systems and alarms cause havoc with electrics if spliced into the loom without consideration. The fusebox can melt because the twin cooling fans draw up to 30 amps. Originally, a 20-amp fuse was fitted, so it’s worth fitting a beefier wiring setup.

10 Sierra gearboxes are durable, but crunching when shifting into reverse is to be expected due to a lack of synchromesh. The first sign of trouble is baulking when changing up from third to fourth, meaning the synchro rings have begun to fail. A rebuild will cost £500, with refurbed diff units slightly less.

AT THE WHEEL

You have to experience the capabilities of this car for yourself – after that you’ll be hooked. The outstanding characteristic of the turbo-equipped RS Cosworth is it’s impressively broad power band. Quite unlike earlier turbo-equipped cars, it isn’t hamstrung by lag – it produces more than 80 per cent of its maximum torque all the way from 2300rpm right upto 6500rpm – which translates into supremely useable performance out on the road.

The feeling of planting the throttle in second gear is one to be savoured, while the mid-range grunt of the engine is truly staggering – it’s a rasping, growling, buzzing old thing, about as far removed from the sanitized modern four-pots that are peddled today as you could imagine.

The RS Cosworth is raw and a bit rough round the edges then, but is an exciting drive and makes no apologies for it. You can indulge your touring car fantasies too, imagining you’re Robb Gravett on the way to a British Saloon Car Championship victory in 1990. Plus, you can still fit the family and a few bags of shopping on board. What a car!

VERDICT

Thanks to the popularity of television programmes such as Ashes To Ashes, there’s now a serious market for 1980s legends like the Sierra Cosworth. Originality is critical though and bodywork, wheels and seats need to be as close to original specification as possible. Many cars were modified almost as soon as they left the dealer’s forecourt, meaning 100 per cent factory fresh examples are now few and far between. Rising values have also seen many dubious characters jumping on the bandwagon – with plenty of fakes being passed off as the real thing. All genuine cars will feature a tilt/slide sunroof, but if you have any doubts then walk away, or consult the RS Owners’ Club for help and advice. That said, as long as you’re careful when buying, then the Cosworth is a perfomance pleaser that’s only going to appreciate in value

FORD SIERRA REVIEW

Ford

Time hasn’t been kind to the Sierra. At its 1982 launch, loyal Ford buyers were put off its radical aerodynamic styling, even though its proven mechanicals were largely taken from the much-loved Cortina. After fighting the good sales fight against the Cavalier in a bid to become a familiar part of UK street furniture, the Sierra slipped into banger territory, and has struggled to pull itself out ever since.
Today, Ford’s spacious hatchback is something of a classic bargain. Prices are still rock-bottom for all but the sporty XR4i, and swivel-eyed Sierra Cosworth. Yet all models offer commendable drivability and are incredibly easy to live with.
Buy one now, before they all disappear.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK

Although less rot-prone than many classics, even the youngest of the first-generation Sierras is a quarter of a century old, so rust has had plenty of time to take hold. Inspect the sill structures closely; watch out for hurried MoT-pass repairs. Take a look at the condition of the footwells. A leaking sunroof will result in damp carpets, which will in turn lead to rot eating away at the floor-pans. Watch for rusty boot floors and lower rear wings.
With the bonnet open, check the inner wings, slam panel and front cross-member for corrosion or signs of accident damage. The sporty XR4i is all the more likely to have been crashed; rippling panels are the biggest clue to poorly-repaired accident damage.
The condition of the suspension turrets, front and rear, is crucial; watch out for clumsy patches welded over rot. Grit and road spray give the inner wheel-arches a good pounding, while a rotten battery tray is tricky to put right.
Any bubbling beneath window rubbers will only get worse over time; this is a glass-out job to rectify. Take a good look at the sunroof aperture; blocked drainage holes will lead to rust.
Doors rot around the windows, as well as their lower edges; the plastic trim of the XR4i hides the latter. Secondhand panels do occasionally turn up at breakers’ yards, although doors for the rare three-door models will take some finding.

ENGINE

The sprawling Sierra range used a number of different engines. The hardy Pinto was used in 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0-litre guises, along with a Peugeot-sourced 2.3-litre diesel engine. All are tough, and the Pinto can cover over 150,000 miles with regular oil changes, although if this hasn’t happened, oil blockage problems can destroy camshafts and followers. Look out for oil smoke under acceleration, as well as lubricant leaks.
Higher-spec models used the Cologne V6 in 2.3 or 2.8-litre sizes. These unstressed units can cover over 200,000 miles with care, although top-end valve gear chatter is a result of a lack of oil changes and/or poor quality oil. Ask how regularly the car has been serviced; low values mean that maintenance is neglected on many Sierras.

RUNNING GEAR

As hard-wearing as the engines, the transmissions used on the Sierra aren’t especially troublesome. Manual versions had either four or five gears (depending upon engine size and age), while automatics always had three ratios. All are tough, and should change smoothly, with the five-speed Type 9 still a popular modification for other classics.
Oil level needs to have been maintained to avoid premature wear. However, if you’re test driving a XR4x4, beware of nasty noises while on the move; it could signify transfer box damage.
If the rubber suspension bushes have deteriorated, the car will feel a lot less sharp to drive than it should; inspect the bushes for the front lower arms and rear trailing arms in particular. Ineffective braking could be down to seized rear wheel cylinders, or excessively worn or warped front discs. Beware of XR4is that have lost their heavier-duty suspension dampers; have corners been cut in other areas of maintenance?

INTERIOR

Regardless of whether cloth or velour is fitted, the Sierra’s trim is quite hard wearing. This is just as well, as tracking down replacement trim will be a nightmare. High-mileage cars are more likely to be suffering from tears, stains and sagging bolsters on the driver’s seat, while carpets can go mouldy, if water is leaking into the cabin.
Check that all of the electrical functions – and there are many on the range-topping Ghia – still work. Plastics can fade and crack in the sun, and parcel shelves and door trims are often butchered to fit aftermarket speakers.

OUR VERDICT

Competent, comfortable and easy to live with, the Sierra is still a smart motoring choice today. That explains why many survivors are still treated as everyday cars. Those fuel-saving aerodynamics, coupled with motorway-friendly gearing and thrifty engines ensure that almost all derivatives are still affordable to run. Sadly, most people have yet to cotton on to what outstanding value the Sierra offers. Grab one now, before they all disappear.

FORD SIERRA SAPPHIRE REVIEW

Ford

When the Ford Sierra was launched in 1982 Ford rather shot themselves in the foot. The Cortina has been sensible, fashionable, but fundamentally a ‘safe’ design. The Sierra was the opposite – new, smooth, aerodynamic, and not at all the car Mr Rep wanted. The Sapphire, launched in 1987, was an attempt to woo back the Cortina fans who had deserted Ford for pastures new in the early 80s – with a sensible grille and a boot proud of the passenger compartment it was just what the sales team needed. By the time it was launched, however, the Sierra had become acceptable.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Bodywork

Being a 1980s Ford, it will rot. Rustproofing and steel quality weren’t great at Ford during the 1980s, and early Sapphires can rot before your eyes if you let them. Later examples tend to be better, but even the newest are 20 years old now.

Post 1989 cars had plastic wheelarch liners to try and alleviate the rust issue, whilst these were successful in avoiding A-post and front wing rot they didn’t work entirely as intended at the back – rear arches still go. The front crossmember and front and rear bumper mounts can rust – beware of rot on the bonnet slam panel, for these issues will almost certainly be present too. Doors can rot, and when replacing beware that there are 2 types of lock mechanism which are non interchangeable. Choose your doors carefully!

Engines

Early cars were all Pinto – the 1.6 and 2.0 from the Cortina days and a new 1.8 litre unit. The 1.8 was replaced mid-term with a 1.8 CVH unit, and the 2.0 with a new 2.0 I4 design in 1989. The head gaskets on this unit have been known to fail – primarily because Ford’s original specification for the antifreeze corroded the fibre gaskets used! Later engines used a laminated steel gasket – make sure it’s been changed, and that the chains and guides were replaced at the same time. Tappets can be noisy, and they all like clean oil – change it every 5000 miles. Diesels were a 2.3 Peugeot unit, and later a 1.8 Turbo unit developed by Ford.

Running Gear

Two gearboxes in normal Sierras, all Pinto and CVH cars got the Type 9 and the I4 engined cars got the MT75. Both boxes are tough and should show no faults in service. MacPherson struts with a trailing anti roll bar at the front and independent swing arms at the back are tried and tested, and reliable in service. Some late cars also got rear anti roll bars, but it wasn’t standard fit – don’t be surprised to find it missing. Some later 2.0s have rear disc brakes – if this is the case and the handbrake hasn’t been used in some time it can become inactive on one side – the only solution is a replacement caliper. Barring this and the obvious risk of discs warping, there’s little to worry about here.

Interior

Being essentially an 80s family car and rep hack, it’s not exactly long lived. MK1 dashboards can crack, though MK2 ones seem hardy. Replacement trim can be an issue, unless it’s a 2000E or one of the rare Ghia with leather – however, parts for lesser models can occasionally be obtained from people breaking Sierras as kit-car donors. Front seats are shared with Sierra, rear ones are a different design and won’t fit.

The soundest advice is to buy a common spec with a common interior colour – if you choose something rare with a strangely coloured interior parts will not be hard to find, they’ll be impossible.

Why Should I Buy One?

Do you need a sensible family car but lust after something from days gone by? Are you a reformed rep? Do you just want a cheap classic? Do you need to use it daily? If the answer to any of these is yes then the Sapphire is an ideal classic. The only snag is that with its 5th door the Sierra is more practical – but then it’s also more common. With the Sapphire, you stand out.

What Should I Pay

Project - £300

Usable - £600

Nice - £1350

Concours - £1750

Vital Statistics

Engine – 1993cc, 4-cyl, OHC

Power - 115bhp@5500rpm

Torque - 118lb/ft@4000rpm

Top Speed – 116mph

0-60mph – 9.2 seconds

Economy – 25mpg

Gearbox – 5 speed manual

FORD SIERRA MKI 1982-1987 REVIEW

Ford

Once they were everywhere, but now Ford’s groundbreaking Sierra is an increasingly rare sight. We show you how to buy a good example of this extremely underrated classic...

Today, Ford’s spacious hatchback is something of a classic bargain. Prices are still rock-bottom for all but the sporty XR4i, and swivel-eyed Sierra Cosworth. Yet all models offer commendable drivability and are incredibly easy to live with.
Buy one now, before they all disappear.

VITAL STATISTICS

1983 FORD SIERRA 2.0

Engine 1993cc/4-cyl/OHC

Power (bhp@rpm) 103bhp@5200rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm) 116lb ft@4000rpm

Top speed 115mph

0-60mph 10.4sec

Consumption 35.8mpg

Gearbox 5-speed manual.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS

With the bonnet open, check the inner wings, slam panel and front cross-member for corrosion or signs of accident damage. The sporty XR4i is all the more likely to have been crashed; rippling panels are the biggest clue to poorly-repaired accident damage.

The condition of the suspension turrets, front and rear, is crucial; watch out for clumsy patches welded over rot. Grit and road spray give the inner wheel-arches a good pounding, while a rotten battery tray is tricky to put right.

Any bubbling beneath window rubbers will only get worse over time; this is a glass-out job to rectify. Take a good look at the sunroof aperture; blocked drainage holes will lead to rust.

Doors rot around the windows, as well as their lower edges; the plastic trim of the XR4i hides the latter. Secondhand panels do occasionally turn up at breakers’ yards, although doors for the rare three-door models will take some finding.

ENGINE

Higher-spec models used the Cologne V6 in 2.3 or 2.8-litre sizes. These unstressed units can cover over 200,000 miles with care, although top-end valve gear chatter is a result of a lack of oil changes and/or poor quality oil. Ask how regularly the car has been serviced; low values mean that maintenance is neglected on many Sierras.

RUNNING GEAR

Oil level needs to have been maintained to avoid premature wear. However, if you’re test driving a XR4x4, beware of nasty noises while on the move; it could signify transfer box damage.

If the rubber suspension bushes have deteriorated, the car will feel a lot less sharp to drive than it should; inspect the bushes for the front lower arms and rear trailing arms in particular. Ineffective braking could be down to seized rear wheel cylinders, or excessively worn or warped front discs. Beware of XR4is that have lost their heavier-duty suspension dampers; have corners been cut in other areas of maintenance?

INTERIOR

Check that all of the electrical functions – and there are many on the range-topping Ghia – still work. Plastics can fade and crack in the sun, and parcel shelves and door trims are often butchered to fit aftermarket speakers.

OUR VERDICT