MKI

FORD GRANADA MKI REVIEW

The elegant and long-anticipated replacement for the largely unloved Ford Zephyr/Zodiac Mk IV was once a familiar sight in corporate car parks, but catching a glimpse of a Mk I Ford Granada of any description today is something of an event.

Spy an estate (or, even more impressively, a coupé) and you’ll be tweeting about it for weeks. Happen upon an early Consul (as the base version was known until 1975) and we doubt anyone will believe you without photographic evidence, such is their rarity. The reasons for this apparent scarcity are many and varied (at least one was sacrificed in the famous opening TV title sequence of The Professionals), and while rust no doubt claimed a lot of them, we suspect many more met a grisly end on a banger racing track of some description. Owning one today, then, will definitely set you aside from the masses.

So, early Granadas may be super-rare, but they’re mechanically simple and, since they were big, spacious cars back in the day, serve as a handy family holdall today, with bags of space inside and a boot big enough to swallow an aircraft carrier.

Elegance, prestige, luxury, effortless performance and spacious comfort Ford’s contemporary sales literature for the Ford Granada promised all this and more, although whether anyone ever managed to wring the (also promised) 30mpg out of the four cylinder cars is possibly open to debate.

Unless you’re lucky enough to find a genuine 5.0-litre V8 Perana Mk I Granada (which was only ever sold in South Africa),  your engine options are simple – four cylinders or six. Of the former, the earlier V4 has received considerable bad press over the years for its perceived unreliability, but it’s actually a much smoother engine than the later, stronger Pinto.

Essex V6s are the most desirable engine options, and it’s practically de rigeur for the big, handsome coupé, preferably allied to the beautifully slurred C3 three-speed automatic gearbox. Don’t expect sports car handling to go with the lazy power, though – these are cars for cruising in.

Inside, the Mk I Granada is very much of an age, with plenty of wood trim on range-topping Ghias.


VITAL STATISTICS

MK I Ford Granada, 1972-1977

Engine                                    2994cc/V6/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  138bhp@5000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 174lb ft@ 3000rpm

Top speed                                113mph

0-60mph                                  10.5sec

Consumption                            19.4mpg

Gearbox                                    3-spd automatic


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

Rust is obviously a key problem area on any unrestored 1970s Ford, so make checking the usual places a matter of course. The higher-spec models do require particular attention, as corrosion can fester behind the profusion of chrome body embellishments, especially those fitted to the wheelarches and around the headlights/grille.

The generic door handles Ford used in the 1970s are known for their quirks. If a door won’t open unless you press the handle in before squeezing it up, then chances are it’s on its last legs. A door that persistently refuses to close, meanwhile, is usually as a result of the handle getting jammed in the open position, either through lack of use or from general wear and tear. This could point to broken or damaged innards, but try dismantling the assembly and re-greasing everything first.

ENGINE

Choose your engine wisely: both the 2.5-litre and 3.0-litre Essex V6s enjoy plentiful parts back-up, as does the 2.0-litre Pinto ‘four’, but the earlier (pre-1975) 2.0-litre V4, while arguably the sweeter of the two four-cylinder engines, has nowhere near the same level of support for non-service parts.

ELECTRICS

It’s a tricky and fiddly job, but it’s well worth checking the hexagonal oil pump drives, which connect the oil pump to a gear at the base of the distributor, for wear. Access is tricky and requires the timing to be re-adjusted afterwards, but the ultimate price for neglecting this is an oil-starved engine. While you’re there, it might be worth replacing the condensor and points with electronic ignition for more efficient running, even when hot.

RUNNING GEAR

Noisy tappets can usually be silenced by professional re-adjustment. If not, it can indicate that a previous owner has been less than pedantic about treating the car to regular oil changes, and/or has repeatedly used poor quality or recycled oil. More seriously, this can also point to blocked engine oil ways, which may necessitate a partial strip-down in order to remedy completely. 

Contemporary magazine road test reports revealed that Mk I Granadas were known for their relatively inefficient ventilation and heating systems even when they were new, but today can indicate either a leaking matrix (check for wet carpets in the front footwells) or a simple airlock. If it’s the latter, brave DIY-ers may be able to release the lock, although it would be safer for a garage to rectify, given the high temperatures involved.

Discoloured and/or pungent gearbox oil is bad news, suggesting contamination or lack of maintenance, and can signify the beginning of the end for the otherwise bomb-proof C3 three-speed auto. The four-speed all-synchromesh manual is pretty much indestructible, and while driveline slop is rare, it is usually attributable to worn propshaft UJs.

BRAKES

Front brake issues are almost always as a result of simple lack of use, with chief among the most common problems being seized calipers and corroded discs. A rock hard brake pedal can be symptomatic of a perished vacuum hose, but if a subsequent strip-down reveals the hose to appear sound, the servo is most likely on its way out, and will need replacing. An uneven ride height, meanwhile, often points to a simple broken coil spring – replacements are cheap to buy and easy to fit, however, even for an experienced DIY-er. 

INTERIOR

Mint early interiors are becoming increasingly scarce, so beware any car that requires major work inside. What few parts are available are usually very expensive – it’s often cheaper (if little easier), to source a complete donor car.


OUR VERDICT

The Mk I Granada has a magical certain something that makes it a truly appealing classic proposition. Part of its appeal must surely stem from its various starring roles in gritty 1970s British TV cop shows such as The Sweeney and The Professionals, but it’s a great car in its own right, being at once handsome (especially so in coupé guise), lazily powerful and hugely practical. Mechanical parts back-up is very good on all models (with the possible exception of the V4-engined cars) and the engines themselves are simple and largely bullet-proof. In fact, your biggest problem is probably going to be actually sourcing a car: well-preserved Grannies are available reasonably readily through the clubs, of course, but most projects will have succumbed to tin worm or banger ignominy by now. Find a good one, though, and you won’t regret it.

FORD ZEPHYR MKI REVIEW

The MkI Zephyr brought unitary bodies to Ford...

 

With only around 70bhp to call on, the Zephyr is no ball of fire on the open road, but you won’t struggle to keep up with modern traffic. In any case, this car is all about style, something it has in abundance. The simple but charming cabin is a fine place to be with plenty of room, a good driving positionand nicely weighted controls. A well-maintained example should start quickly and settle to a smooth tickover, and while the 2.2-litre engine gets vocal when pressed, long-distance refinement is more than acceptable. An ability to cover plenty of miles in comfort is one of the Zephyr’s biggest plus points, while a smooth ride and secure handling inspire confidence if you do want to make full use of the power on offer. Perhaps it was these attributes that contributed to the Zephyr’s success as a rally car, with speed camera inventor, Maurice Gatsonides, winning the 1953 Monte Carlo Rally in one! So if you’re looking for a roomy and relaxing British classic, this stylish Ford is likely to tick all the boxes.


VITAL STATISTICS

FORD ZEPHYR MKI

Engine                                    2262cc/6-cyl/OHV

Power (bhp@rpm)                  68bhp@4000rpm

Torque (lb ft@rpm)                 112lb ft@2000rpm

Top speed                                80mph

0-60mph                                  19.5sec

Consumption                            20mpg 


WHAT TO LOOK FOR

BODYWORK & CHASSIS
 

It may have been Ford’s first car to feature unitary construction but it also shared the same propensity for rust as many British models, which means thorough checking of the bodywork is required. It’s the usual places too, such as the wings, wheel arches, sills and door bottoms that are most at risk, but you’ll also want to check the front and rear valances, the leading edge of the boot lid and the double-skinned sections of the bonnet. The A-posts (where the front door hinges mount) are also known rot-spots, but be aware that removing the front wings is the only sure way to fully examine them. Good examples are out there if you’re patient and many have been repaired by now. Check the history file for evidence of any body repairs, and check the car to see if the information and bills tally.

A good look underneath is advisable as the underbody can rust in a number of places. Check the front chassis rail where the bumper brackets mount, the front and rear outriggers and jacking points, and the chassis rails where they pass over the rear axle. Lift the carpets in the front and rear footwells and the boot to check for signs of rust. Also feel for any dampness that suggests water ingress.

An often-overlooked problem is scarcity of some exterior trim parts, such asbadges and bumpers. Mazak, chrome and stainless steel were used for these items and you could face a lengthy search for second-hand bits if they are missing. That, or you’ll need to budget for costly re-chroming work. Our advice would be to spend a little more on a car that is essentially complete.

The pretty convertible with its hydraulically-powered hood is something of a rarity, but if you are tempted, make sure the mechanism and hood are in sound condition. A plate is mounted under the bonnet with instructions for operating the hood, so check this is in place as it adds a nice touch of originality. Check for any rips, tears or wear, as replacement hoods can be very expensive.

 

ENGINE

The iron-block straight six engine is both simple and strong. Questioning the vendor about the previous maintenance regime should tell you all you need to know, and as long as it has been maintained properly and received regular oil changes should prove trouble-free. All the same it is worth watching out for excessive amounts of blue smoke from the exhaust indicating valve stem oil seal or piston-ring wear. There is still an excellent parts supply for these units with items such as camshafts, pistons, and engine blocks all available, and their simplicity makes a re-build a reasonable DIY proposition. Once again, check the history file for any significant repairs that have been carried out during the life of the car. 

 

RUNNING GEAR

The three-speed column change gearbox rarely gives trouble as long as the oil level has been kept topped up – if it jumps out of second gear a re-build is required, but any slack in the linkage is easily sorted.  An overdrive unit was a rare option and while it does benefit long-distance cruising, you’ll need to ensure it operates correctly as bringing a defunct unit back to life can be time-consuming and costly.  BorgWarner versions were operated by a simple solenoid switch, but the Laycock units were engaged by a cable-operated lever in the cabin, the driver needing to manually lock the system in or out depending on driving conditions. When new, the Zephyr had a tendency to break half-shafts, but stronger replacements are available from specialists.

The suspension system is a simple arrangement with MacPherson struts at the front and semi-elliptic leaf springs aft. Both are trouble-free and easy to refurbish (though watch for rust around the front suspension turrets). The same generally applies to brakes and steering, and evidence of regular maintenance will provide peace of mind. That said, the brakes can prove tricky to bleed owing to the design of the master cylinder (it sucks fluid from the reservoir rather than using gravity), though a £300 conversion kit avoids the problem. Also, the steering box lower mounting bracket can crack over time – a specialist may be needed to sort either problem. Re-build costs can quickly mount, so take this into account when viewing. 


INTERIOR

‘Simplicity’ is a word that applies to the interior of the Zephyr too, and with plenty of painted metal on display, refreshing a tired cabin is a DIY task.  You’ll need to budget for re-trimming work if seats and carpets are damaged (the leather trim of higher-spec models will add cost), but finding one in good condition shouldn’t be difficult. Replacement interior trim is available though.


OUR VERDICT

If it’s a stylish and roomy family classic that you’re after, then the overall simplicity and robust mechanicals of the Ford Zephyr make it hugely appealing. There are of course some issues to be aware of – corrosion being the main one – but buy carefully and you’ll be rewarded with a fine British car that should prove easy and cheap to run. And if you like to wield the spanners, that simplicity gives plenty of scope for DIY work, too. So buy the best you can afford. Try and avoid cars that have been ‘Teddy-boy’d up’, as too many accessories can spoil the clean lines. Values are creeping up as fewer cars survive, so now is the time to buy.